Vol. I Issue XII THE ulsanwww.ulsanpear.biz PearMarch 2005 WATCH OUT FOR THE LAW ’s Top Cops Traffic School Korean Mafia Knowing Your Rights Guide to Taxes

HELP THE PEAR! when you’re finished reading this rag, pass it on to your friends, fam- ily, co-workers and students!

Cover Harvey photo by Dave FREE an urban survival guide to the industrial capital of korea 자유로운 2 THE ulsan Pear

KNoWIng YOUR RIGHTS Dear Pear Readers, By Dr. Paul Robertson In the West it is usually a These issues particularly re- Seems like the last issue stirred up its fair share of controversy. In response, we’ve EFL-Law.org simple matter of going to late to teachers on E2 Visas. introduced a Letters to the Editor column to incorporate all of your feedback. We’d the Industrial court or other All of these points are like to invite your criticisms, complaints and hey, it’d be nice to here something nice country-specific venue to known to the well oriented every once in a while too... This year, EFL-Law enters seek swift justice. Here, the Korean school owners who its third anniversary helping “system” is very complex manipulate the law so as to At the very least, all of this shows that people are actually reading this paper - a fact teachers with legal matters. and very unfair. This is a avoid their legal responsi- I’ve questioned a fair number of times over the last year. Last year we saw 3,108 cases weakness which some Ko- bilities. reported to us by Foreign rean school owners abuse. This is our twelfth issue and focuses on Law and Order. Twelve issues is an important teachers liv- Most Foreign- milestone for any publication and I’m excited, surprised and proud of the fact that ing in Korea, ers are forced the Ulsan Pear has lasted this long. which works to leave Ko- out to about rea without However, with many of our regular contributors moving on in the next few months, 60 teachers r e c e i v i n g the future remains uncertain and we need your help. We are always on the lookout a week who justice – few for writers, photographers, graphic designers and layout specialists. are having stay to fight. p r o b l e m s . Some take So if you want to learn what it takes to put out a monthly magazine, we can teach you (ed. ~ see Fig. the case to how. If you are interested in helping to preserve one of Korea’s only English-language A for a break- the Small expat publications, please contact myself or any of the editorial board directly. down). C l a i m s Court. Most Many thanks, The great- who go there est problems win, though stem from is- in a few cases Joel Burslem sues with the the employer Editor-In-Chief Labor laws. counter sues [email protected] Immigration issues and The Labor Court is the the teachers and wins the taxation matters (ed. ~ Read Venue for a wronged teach- case causing the Teacher our article on page 8 for more er to visit – but it takes far greater financial hardship. 6) It is also a good idea to on your taxes) are also major too long for the System to write to the EFL-Law Fo- problems. do anything. Unfortuately, If you are dismissed from rums and post your prob- in most cases the dismissed your job, you should follow lem. Usually you will get While many Korean em- foreigner: these steps: advice within four to eight ployers are fair and look hours. after their employees, es- (a) has no money because 1) Report to Immigration Green Print pecially some of the larger his employer has not paid immediately and tell them Whilst the situation can chains, there are far too him/her you have been dismissed be very unsettling and many unscrupulous Korean (b) has no accommodation (i.e. you no longer have a frightening, you do have business men who prey on because the employer has Sponsor) remedies available. Most the innocence of their for- told the teacher to vacate teachers have some ‘prior eign guest. the premises 2) Ask Immigration to allow warning’ that their dismissal (c) the foreigner teacher has you time to stay in Korea to is around the corner. Don’t Some of the common com- no Sponsor and has a very go to the labor office and wait till this happens. Being plaints relate to dismissal. limited time to stay in Ko- seek justice – they can grant proactive by seeking advice In the greater majority of rea before Immigration Law from 10-30 days before you can be effective. ™ cases, the dismissal is harsh dictates they must leave. need to leave (even if only [email protected] the Ulsan Pear and unjust. to Japan and back) Established 2004

3) Visit EFL-Law.org and [FYI - Dr. Robertson will be

see the labor Office proce- speaking at the Asian EFL Editor-in-Chief: Joel Burslem dures you need to follow. Journal’s 2005 conference, “The Future of English Editorial Board/ Dave Harvey 4) Go to the Labor Office Education in Asia: Making Staff Writers: Eileen Keast with a Korean friend to act Connections.” Fin Madden as a translator. Mehul Patel Jason Teale It will happen on May 14 at

5) Find a place to stay – you Dongseo University in Bu- Contributors: Dan Barham will probably have to move san. More info at: Anne Bell out of your school apart- www.asian-efl-journal.com] John Buckley ment David Macri Dr. Paul Robertson    Copy Editor: Eileen Keast    Photographers: Dave Harvey Bennett Ho Jason Teale

 Layout/Graphic Joel Burslem Design: Dave Harvey  Fin Madden Mehul Patel

 Advertising Sales:: Fin Madden 019.811.5373

 web: www.ulsanpear.biz  email: [email protected] Fig. A - Breakdown of cases handled by EFL-Law (2004 ) THE ulsan Pear 3

FROM THE MAILBAG RE: FEBRUARY ISSUE

RAVES Dear Sirs, Dear Mr. Harvey,

I have always regarded your magazine with a somewhat skeptical eye as being the product of It is with regret that I am writing to inform you that owing to the failure on your some beer swilling elitists with a slight hint of xenophobia added for good measure. part as Editor in Chief to “vet” the contents of your publication, it will no longer be

AND made available to the foreign community that use the Clubhouse. Now I see that my suspicions have been confirmed with your latest issue.

The article by your correspondent who classifies men as ‘shaggable’ or not is a shameful reflec- While I agree that there is a place for an informative publication that highlights the tion of a Western society ‘woman’ whose lack of morals is barely exceeded by her good sense good and bad within any environment, I feel that the content of the Feb Issue of The in rushing into print to proclaim what an easy lay she is. How sad. Men might think the same Ulsan Pear crosses the line as to what informative journalism represents. things about women, but most men I know who work abroad would certainly think twice before advertising the fact in a newspaper. To say “the content within the Pear may not represent the views of the Pear itself” is a complete cop out. You, Mr. Harvey as Editor in Chief are providing a service to RANTS As for the rest of the tripe that was written under the guise of a ‘Valentines Issue’, I am sure your readers and your advertisers; some of whom I think would be very alarmed at St. Valentine himself would never have lent his name to the garbage currently being circulated having their name associated with the content of your latest publication. You and in the name of love. your writers have a moral and public duty to make sure that the content of your Massage parlors, Haircuts, VD Clinics and Coffee shops plus the dreaded ‘f’ word hardly publication serves the whole of your reader base. make for entertaining reading unless your mind never rises above your navel. No wonder English Language Teachers are being currently investigated by the Government for moral They say that when writing any article for general publication, the actual text used is suitability if this is an example of the length and breadth of their experience. Especially with aimed at an age group of 9 to 10. You, as Editor in Chief should remember that. On the likelihood of young Korean or other nationals’ people using this paper to further their the compound where we live we have our fair share of 9 and 10 year olds and we will study of English. not have them subjected to the kind of drivel and lewd content that is so blatant in this recent issue. Surely, Mr. Harvey, in this day and age it is far better for parents to How far have we come from investigative journalism? educate their children on morality issues concerning the outside world rather than

Yours in absolute disgust have them read the contents of someone’s exploits on how to get their kicks in life!!

Name withheld With the above in mind and as of today’s date, please refrain from having the Pear delivered to the compound. Should you wish to re-evaluate the content of the maga- Dear Sir, zine then the committee will be only too pleased to proof read your publication prior to it being allowed back on the Clubhouse premises. Also please remove the This newspaper is most certainly not the product of “beer swilling elitists.” Rather Clubhouse from your website as a possible distribution point. it’s the result of many hours of hard work put in by foreign expats - young and old, English teachers and engineers alike - most of whom I’m sure would take issue with I along with the committee will be only too happy to discuss any of the above mat- your attack on their “moral suitability”. ters and we have no objection to you placing a copy of this letter in your next Issue for all your readers to see. Further a copy of this letter will be posted in the clubhouse the Ulsan Pear and will also be sent home with the children who attend the foreign school so that their parents can see the actions that we have taken.

I read your newspaper with irregularily, but I occationally like to see what the foreigner com- With Best regards, munity is doing. When I fisiched reading the paper, I was in shock and later I was furious. I was especially upset by the aricle by Finn Madden interviewing Mr. Kim . Gerry Duggan While this mau be treu the implication that Korean women are habitually promiscuous is a gross exaggeration. Newspapers are for all foreigners and affects the way they behave. Chairman, Foreigners Compound Social Club Did you consider the cosequence to Korean women this article reading have? This Mr.Kim is an unusual persin and I think he is crazy. His story sounds to me like wishful Dear Mr. Duggan, thinking, Especially his ‘tip’ of eye contact and indifference leading to an easy lay! That is crazy. I wish you would apologize for this article as it is very distasteful and hurtful to First off, please accept our apologies for any distress our last issue may have caused younger our women and gives our men a bad name. readers. Please di not slander us again. In publishing the Ulsan Pear, our target reader base was never intended to be those in the received via email 9 to 10 year-old range. Since its conception, the Ulsan Pear has always been an adult- To our Korean Readers, oriented publication. Existing publications like FLIK Magazine already capably serve a younger audience. We sincerely apologize for any offense that may have been taken by Mr Kim’s comments. Mr. Duggan, your conclusion that the content included in February’s issue was the failure the Ulsan Pear of any one individual is incorrect. Our editorial board approves of all of the content and we stand by all of the hard work that has gone into each of our issues, including this one. I am contacting you to compliment you on your insightful and non-judgmental article on massuses in this month’s Ulsan Pear. As a relative newcomer, I would be very appreciative if Furthermore, we firmly believe that it is every adult’s inalienable right to choose what you would not mind letting me know of a good barber shop to visit. I have only a little Ko- they want to read and we have always left it up to our readers to ‘vet’ our content in any rean language, and am very unsure where an appropriate place to visit might be. I understand way they see fit. Censorship in any form is an affront to civil liberties. if you cannot divulge your sources, but if you can point me in the right direction, I would be very thankful. We respectfully decline your offer to proofread our publication.

received via email We sincerely hope that the Foreigners’ Compound Social Club rethinks its decision to ban our newspaper, and we would suggest as an alternative, that the distribution of the Ummmm... we’ll see what we can do. ~U.P. Ulsan Pear be better served in the future from within the confines of the Compound Bar,

rather than the more accessible areas of the clubhouse where younger readers may be able to readily obtain a copy.

Make Your voice HEARD Until that point however, the Ulsan Pear will abide by your wishes and our existing read- Do you have something to say about any of the content in our current ership can continue to receive the publication from alternative distribution outlets. or past issues? We look forward to your response.

Please send your criticisms, comments and compliments to us at: the Ulsan Pear [email protected] Cont. over 4 THE ulsan Pear INTERVIEW WITH ULSAN’S TOP COPS By Fin Madden out it. Leather. The coolest, different statement. In Ul- These guys are professional Officer Gwan is a fifth de- san-dong. Disappointed to The Ulsan Pear most lethal people through- san there are only 13 men crime fighters. And I had gree taekwondo blackbelt. be sure, but I was not sur- out history have clad them- who can wear leather con- the chance to interview two The ability to kick ass comes prised to find that fighting selves in it. Today wearing fidently, purposefully, le- of them: Officers Ahn and with the bike and the black is the major crime of Ulsan. Darth Vader wore it, the a suit of leather makes a thally. Gwan. leather pants. Marquis de Sade loved slightly There may not be many it, Genghis Khan They are the motorbike Both officers joined the When asked if they had fighting Irish in town, but wouldn’t leave police. They ride around Motorcycle Police because any problems with foreign- in a city where Soju flows his yurt town on big, mus- it is a step above the ordi- ers, I envisioned sleazy bars, like water, the Irish just with- cular motorcy- nary. They are cool and get undercover drug busts and aren’t needed to start fights. cles; BMWs to wear black leather. Who and Harleys wouldn’t want to join? There usually. are some 2,000 police in Ul- san, but only 13 motorcycle enforcers. These guys are the top gun of Ulsan’s po- lice, they are the best of the best, and they know it.

When asked which bike they prefer, both officers re- plied Harley Davidson. The bike has more power than the BMW, but ultimately the decision was based on Photo by Dave Harvey coolness. Schwarzenegger would never be seen on a other Hollywood goodness. When asked why they don’t Eurotrash bike, the Termi- Sadly for them, the biggest carry a gun, they answered nator always rides a hog. difficulty with foreigners is that they are both well (not surprisingly) the lan- trained to defend them- Power seems like a moot guage barrier. Most foreign- selves. When there are few point. When asked about ers, when apprehended for criminals, and even fewer high speed chases they an- a crime seem to completely still with weapons, guns be- swered that in Korea there lack the ability to converse come more irrelevant. are no high speed chases. in Korean and even some- The job of the police is times in English. On occa- I would like to thank Of- simplified by the ample sion these officers have dealt ficers Gwan and Ahn for speed and red light cameras with rude foreigners, but taking the time to answer (damn them). It seems run- generally they have found my questions and for a very ning away rarely occurs to a us lot to be polite people. informative and honest in- Korean drunk driver. Fight- terview. As they rode off ing occasionally does. Having watched “My Wife together into the smogset, is a Gangster” a few too they were the epitomy of All Korean police officers many times I envisioned cool - leather clad protectors have at least their first de- Ulsan’s crime problems rag- of the peace riding 1200ccs gree black belt in a martial ing in secret rooms beneath of raw power. art. Most have their second. a glitzy room salon in Sam- [email protected]

FROM THE MAILBAG Dear Pear Readers,

Upon arrival in Ulsan on the 17th of January, we had a differ- ent view of the city of Ulsan. Our information was limited to Philipino and Russian “Company Ladies” with their so called “Ladies drinks” but we soon found out that our salaries are not really made to spend our time in those kinds of places for the next 6 weeks... By accident, we got in contact with a few “White faces” which lead us to the stairs at “Benchwarmers” - a bar full of teachers, engineers, and other friendly company. The Boys from the Buccaneer This lead us to a few unforgettable weeks in Ulsan with all her activities (read: Rugby, Soccer, visiting Gyeongju, drinking games, and more...)

With this letter, we’d like to thank everybody, in particular, Troy and Sharon, for their kind hospitality and fun we enjoyed together! This once more clears the fact that you can have lots of fun, anywhere around the world, even in the industrial capital of Korea, as long as you meet the right people!

Thanks! Rainald, Jaap, Gert-Jan, Joost and Koen Crew of the Happy Buccaneer. THE ulsan Pear 5

Hang a left at the lights... Photo by Dave Harvey TRAFFIC SCHOOL By Jason Teale year must obtain a valid Ko- mum fine of 5 million won The Ulsan Pear rean driver’s license. and their license being tak- en away. However, this is all Those staying less than a subject to how drunk you Korea has to be one of the year can use an Internation- were at the time. really not even the Kore- no matter if you are going than back home. Always be most difficult places to drive al Driving Permit (IDP), ans follow these rules. Just the speed limit or not. They alert and please drive with in the world. Accidents are but it is only good for one The Reality: Just don’t do use your descretion. Be safe will pass you just because, caution. common and some of your year and this starts from the it. Check stops are every- within this apparent anar- and they will merge into fellow motorists are some exact date that you enter where and change locations chy. your lane with out yielding Finally, it goes without the most aggressive drivers Korea. randomly. No matter if you to you at all. saying that just because in the world. Many foreign- drive a or a 49cc scooter In fact if you actually follow nobody else abides by the ers drive scooters or vehicles, The Reality: Chances are you will get checked. Don’t these rules, you may even * * * rules, it does not mean that but not many really know that you won’t be asked for take the chance, cabs are put you at risk of serious in- you won’t get stopped for it the Korean traffic laws. this document unless you do cheap. jury from aggressive drivers. Okay, so the reality of the or even fined. something seriously wrong. situation is that what the That being said, the reality The Law states: U-turns are Do what you can to survive officials say you should do In the event that you do find of the situation is that you Running red lights in front illegal where there is a solid because riding a scooter or and what really happens is yourself being stopped and may not have to. Below is a of traffic officials will gen- line on the road or anywhere motorcycle puts you at more like night and day. you can’t talk your way out comparison of what the Ko- erally produce a stern talk- where a sign indicates it to risk of injury and motorists of it, here is a list of various rean Traffic Laws and what ing to about “Korean traffic be so. That means that the here treat you like a second- This is not unlike many traffic violations and what the Driving Manual states laws.” It is a good idea how- first 10 or 15 feet before an class driver. This means that other countries in the world, you can expect to shell out as the proper way to drive ever to have some docu- intersection is fair game. they will cut into your lane but suffice it to say, that if you get caught. in Korea and then…what mentation if you do happen and force you off the road traffic here is a little crazier [email protected] really happens. to find yourself in a serious The Reality: U-turns hap- collision. pen anywhere, everywhere SUMMARY OF KOREAN TRAFFIC VIOLATIONS AND FINES * * * and at anytime. Buses, The Law states: Drinking SUV’s with a turning radius Violations Fines per type of vehicle The Law states: Anyone and driving is against the of a city block, taxis blindly • Exceeding speed limit by 40 km/h or W90,000 for cars operating a motor vehicle law. People refusing to use a turning into oncoming traf- more W60,000 for motorcycles and scooters including bicycles with mo- breathalizer indicate crimi- fic - they all will do them at • Using cell phones while driving, W60,000 for cars tors has to have a driver’s li- nal intent and can be pun- any point in time. • Dangerous passing W40,000 for motorcycles and scooters cense issued by the Korean ished. • Exceeding the speed limit by 20 km/h Driving authority. Solid line or not, watch your • Holding infants or animals while driving, W40,000 for cars ass because they may not see • Blowing horns repeatedly, W30,000 for motorcycles and scooters Those who have a valid for- you in front of them (or re- • Accelerating your motorcycle to “14000 eign driver’s license (from Just because no- ally care at all) and will carry rpm’s” to make a loud noise, an accepted country) maybe body else abides on with their turn whether • Driving on the shoulder (commonly exempted from taking the “ you move or not. known as “the scooter highway”) of the test, but still have to obtain by the rules, it road, a license after a year. does not mean The Law states: Two- • Yielding the right of way to emergency that you won’t get wheeled vehicles must ride vehicles by stopping The Reality: If you are in the middle of the lane, • Pulling over and allowing passengers to stopped by the police, stopped for it or should not aggressively cut engage in disturbing behavior in the car chances are they may not even fined. in and out of traffic, stay even ask for a license. Most within the posted speed lim- • Not wearing helmets, W30,000 for cars times if they stop you, you’ll it, should not use pedestrian • Not using seatbelts for both driver and W20,000 for motorcycles and scooters be generally confused as to walk-ways or crosswalks, passenger why you are being stopped Those who have a blood- and two wheeled vehicles • Driving vehicles with excessively tinted W20,000 for cars anyway and the police offic- alcohol content over 0.05% cannot travel on express- windows along with strange illegal fixtures W10,000 for motorcycles and scooters er will get confused as well are charged” according to ways or driveways. attached to the car and just let you go. their blood alcohol content. • Splashing water on people If charged, a driver is liable The Reality: Ha! Does any- • For taxis - urging passengers to share a The Law states: Foreigners for a jail term of a maxi- body actually follow those taxis, refusing to take passengers and charg- living in Korea for over a mum of two years, a maxi- rules? Do whatever works, ing more that the indicated fare 6 THE ulsan Pear

Restaurants - Yellow Shopping - Purple - Shopping

1 Cheesy Rice Mugeo-dong 2 Bulgogi Street 3 Santa Pasta Fe 4 Cantanapoli 5 Buffalo Chicken The6 Indian Restaurant 7 Chinese Restaurant 8Vegetarian Restaurant TGIFriday 9 10 Paprika 11 Outback Steakhouse 12 Marche 13 Subway 14 Korea Union

Bangeojin

19 Hyundai Department Store Store Department Hyundai 19

18 SaveZone 18

17 Emart 17

16 Yaum-dong Homeplus Yaum-dong 16

15 Camera Mart Camera 15

14 Lotte Department Store Department Lotte 14

garage’)

13 Computer World (‘parking (‘parking World Computer 13

12 Alfred Hitchcock Computers Computers Hitchcock Alfred 12

11 Hyundai Department Store Department Hyundai 11

10 Lotte Mart Lotte 10

9 Megamart 9

8 Homeplus 8

7 Ulsan Motorbike Ulsan 7

6 Walmart 6

5 May Department Store Department May 5

4 Exotic Jewelry Boutique Jewelry Exotic 4

3 The Glasses Shop Glasses The 3

2 The Glasses Shop Glasses The 2 1 Aram Mart Aram 1 Recreation – Orange Tour/Scenic – Green 1 Munsusan – Hiking/Rock Climbing 2 Munsu Stadium BridgeTaehwa field3 (Frisbee, Soccer, Rugby) 4 Ulsan Grand Park 1 Boardwalk Park under Samho bridge 2 Hakseong Fortress Park 3 Ulsan MBC park 4 Old City Hall 5 Riverfront Recreation Area Memorial6War in Ulsan Grand Park 7 Sechang Naengdong factory-View from roof 8 Daewangam and Ulgi Park 9 Ilsan beach near militaryTrails 10 base and mine fields

Cover Harvey photo by Dave - Bars/Coffee Shops/ Entertainment – Red 1 Tombstone 1 2 Jaive Coffee 3 Davinci Coffee 4 Dunkin Donuts 5 Gloria Jeans 6 Dunkin Donuts 7 Feca Coffee 8 J and J Coffee 9 Benchwarmers 10 McKenzie’s 11 Megabox 12 Gallery Zone/Primus Cinema 13 AMC (soon to open) 14 Club Acid 15 Java Coffee 16 La Scala Coffee Brauhaus Trevi 17 18 Munchin Brauhaus 19 Lotte Cinema 20 Club McKenzie’s 21 Hyundai Arts Center

photos by Dave Harvey photos by Dave 울산 mportant Places - Brown I

1 Ulsan University 2 MS Hospital 3 Sinbok Rotary 4 Samho Bridge 5 Bukbu Beltway 6 ShigayTap 7 Beonyeong Bridge 8 Dong Cheon Basketball Stadium 9 Ulsan Airport Im-10 NewDr. Gyeongnam Clinic Bridge Taehwa 11 RotaryTaehwa 12 13 Gonguptap Rotary 14 City Hall 15 KEB by City Hall 16 Bank Street 17 KBS Office Tax 18 19 Bus Stations Station Train 20 21 Good Morning Hospital Hospital22Woori 23 Immigration 24 Ulsan College 25 HHI 26 Hyundai cars The27 Foreigners’ Compound 28 Offshore Shipyard 29 Assano Expressway 30 University Hospital

to de i u G ar’s e P he T The Ulsan hasPear compiled this map as a guide to places important to foreign hopeers. We that you find it useful, and use it as a tool to explore this If city. you have any suggestions of locations to be added or corrected, please e-mail the atPear [email protected] ULSAN ULSAN THE ulsan Pear 7

[email protected] 울산 G u i de to ar’s e P he T

ULSAN ULSAN Daewangam and Ulgi Park Ulgi and Daewangam To advertiseTo here, call Fin Madden 019-811-5373 or e-mail

Petro-Chemical Industrial Area ulsan pear the

photos by Dave Harvey photos by Dave 삼산동 Samsan-dong (new downtown) 성남동

Lotte Wheel, Samsan-dong (old downtown) -dong

Sinbok Rotary, Mugeo-dong 무거동

Mugeo-dong Munsu Mountain Munsu

Thanks to the City of Ulsan for use of the map http://english.ulsan.go.kr/ 8 THE ulsan Pear TAKING CARE OF (TAX) BuSINESS By Mehul Patel cent discount on a foreign She refused. This imme- The Ulsan Pear worker’s salary. If you think diately made me begin to you’re getting screwed, as I suspect that they were just suspected I was, you’re not pocketing my tax money. [or So, Your Boss is a Busted without recourse however. Waste of Oxygen, Who Won’t Should your requests fail, Give You a Hole to Crap In] Eom Jeon-jung is the man- the next step is to file an ager of the Investigations official complaint with the You may have wondered Division at the Ulsan Dis- Tax Office, and thereby re- how the income tax sys- trict Tax Office in Samsan quest an investigation of tem in Korea works. Asking Dong. your place of employment. around to your peers how much tax is withheld from He says the first step you A typical investigation takes their pay each month and should take is to inform about 8 weeks and you will you will likely get answers your boss or director of the need to provide the tax of- ranging from 3 to 7per cent, suspected error. If a request fice with some simple infor- depending on their place of to correct the error and re- mation: employment. imburse any monies owed a) the company’s name and is deflected -- as it will most address But a matter of fact, if you’re likely be -- Mr. Eom says b) your monthly salary, the Ulsan District Tax Office Photo by Dave Harvey an English teacher making that he is willing to make a amount they have withheld 1.9 million won a month, phone call to a director on for taxes, When the investigation is In any case, to protect your- The Tax Investigations Di- your income tax should be behalf of any foreigner who c) [most importantly - if complete, you may receive self from these scenarios, vision is on the 3rd floor of exactly W28,320 (roughly visits his office. you’re a teacher] the number some reimbursement. I re- you should make sure you the Ulsan District Tax Of- 1.5 per cent) payable to the of students your school has; cently received notification always conduct business fice which is across from the tax office every month. an exact number is pre- from the tax office that I had with your boss in writing. Samsan-dong Police Station. ferred. been reimbursed W61, 800. Documents should then be If taking a taxi, say “Sam- If your place of employ- the greater satis- I’m not sure what it was for, signed, dated, and copied. san Sae Moo So.” Mr. Eom ment is taking more than faction came dis- Most of this information but really, the greater satis- Making sure you’re protect- is willing to answer any of this, this should should raise “ can be found on your em- faction came disproving my ed on paper is helpful when your taxation concerns. some suspicion. proving my boss’ ployment contract. Your boss’ belief that she could pursuing legal matters. [email protected] monthly salary receipts are screw me with impunity. [Now, it could be that if belief that she also useful. These receipts they are taking around 7 could screw me need not be official look- If you feel your job has per cent, there is a chance ing. The date, amounts paid swindled you out of a great they are legitimately paying with impunity. and withheld, and your sig- deal of money, that is, you a portion of it into National nature on plain A4 paper is are the poor sap which has Pension Plan. Foreigners enough. had 7 per cent withheld can get this money back every month for a few year, when they leave Korea, but This was my situation. I Unfortunately, some of you there is slim chance that you you do not get income taxes confronted my boss one day may not have any kind of will be reimbursed in full. If back.] about the 4per” cent tax that receipt, in which case the this applies to you, you’re was being deducted from investigation will be more going to have to contact the However, some owners sim- my salary and asked for my difficult, but by no means Department of Labor and ply see “taxation” as a 7 per school’s tax number. impossible. pursue the matter in court. Map to Ulsan District Tax Office

Taking a taxi isn’t complicated even if you don’t know any Korean; it’s point- and-shoot. Approximations of real words like “breakfast jam” for depart- ment store will get you where you need to go, but correct pronuciation and a SH few other fundamental words will get you more street-cred from chronically I agitated taxi drivers and a better chance of being delivered to exactly where you want to go.

The Basics: Getting to Key Locations in Ulsan

Location Pronunciation Hangul ONGL Shigae Top Shee-gay Tahp 시계탑

K Home Plus Home Plus-uh 홈 플러스

Train Station Key-cha yuk 기차역 Ulsan University Ulsan Tae-hak-yo 울산대학교

nd Department Store Bek-hwa-jahm 백화점

Sentences are constructed using the verb -juseyo meaning “to do for my # benefit.” Ka-juseyo means “ go for my benefit.” To tell the driver to take you somewhere, use the following construction:

Location + Ka-juseyo BEYO

Example: “Go to Hyundai Department store, please.” Pronunciation: Hyundai Bek-wa-jahm ka-juseyo. Hangul:현대백와점 가주세요 THE ulsan Pear 9

REMEMBERING THE DEADLY Battle For Kapyong

by David Macri Although the United war, but the Battle of The train’s destination Contributor States led the interven- Kapyong on April 23- is to Chuncheon but it lsan tion effort and contrib- 25, 1951, remains one does stop at Gapyeong. Foreigners working and uted the greatest number of the most significant. Once there, the easiest U

living in Korea have of Western troops, many During this period the thing to do is to hire benefited in many ways other countries were in- 27th British Common- one of the many taxis from the country’s eco- volved as well. wealth Brigade halted waiting at the front of of

nomic success, with a dangerous the station. They can money and travel be- Chinese of- take you around for t ing the most obvious fensive aimed about an hour at a cost rewards. at encircling of about W27,000. It’s . a pretty small town and

OU In the daily course of most of the drivers will

business however, it is The brigade Canadian Memorial at Gapyeong (photo courtesy of David Macri) know where the monu- easy to forget that Ko- was comprised Citation as a result of For those interested in ments are. rea’s prosperity was not of men from their victory. embarking upon an af- ng always assured. Cultur- canadian troops man a machine-gun at Canada, Aus- At the very least, the trip

i ternoon historical expe- kapyong (photo courtesy of CBC.ca) al factors played a role tralia, New (More information on dition while in Seoul, can be a pleasant coun- in shaping the country’s Zealand and the battle for Kapyong the easiest way to get tryside diversion amidst well-being, but with- Although less widely Great Britain. can be found at the fol- there is to leave by train, some beautiful scen- out the intervention of known, the role of sev- ery. More importantly, ett lowing website: www. departing from Seoul’s Western military forces eral British Common- Two battalions from the awm.gov.au/korea/op- Cheongnyangi Station. it might also serve as a

G during the Korean War, wealth countries may be Princess Patricia’s Ca- erations/kapyong/kapy- reminder of how fortu- the enitre peninsula of interest to some for- nadian Light Infantry ong.htm). (To get to the train sta- nate we all are to travel would likely be a totali- eigners living in Korea and the Royal Austral- tion, just take Subway and work within a free tarian prison. Visiting the area to- line 1 to Cheongnyan- Korea. day, there are several gi) [email protected] Our busy schedules memorial sites around do not often allow for Kapyong (now spelled historical reflection, Gapyeong) marking the but when the matter is battlefield and to honor examined, it becomes those who died in the clear that Korea’s free- battle. dom was paid for with the sacrifice of Korean They can be found and Western soldiers along the main road between the years 1950 General J. Van Fleet, US Eighth Army, bestowing the Unit Citation going north from the and 1953. to Australian troops (Photo Courtesy Australian War Memorial) town. Situated in the valley overshadowed by A visit to the UN ceme- Commonwealth coun- ian Regiment received a the once defended hills, tary in provides tries were involved in United States Presiden- the monuments are not Australian Memorial at Gapyeong (photo courtesy of David Macri) ample evidence of this. many actions during the tial Distinguished Unit hard to find. 10 THE ulsan Pear WHO ARE THESE WISEGUYS? The heyday for Jo-pok was money is accumulated via BY Anne Bell throughout the 60’s, 70’s and underground financial The Ulsan Pear 80’s. During these decades businesses (construction they ruled entertainment contracts, real estate Gang names like the Hell’s districts. They were dealings, etc.) or fraud Angels, Yakuza, Mafia are involved in ‘protecting’ operations and then re- all easily recognizable. But various establishments, as invested in legitimate what of Korean gangsters? well as money lending and businesses. Aside from what can be prostitution. gleaned from popular films As international borders such as My Wife is a Gangster These activities still continue have become more open, and Chingu, just what else today, but in a more covert illegal trade in persons, is there to know about the fashion. goods and drugs has also Korean Jo-pok? become a source of Jo- pok revenue. Both China The word Jo-pok is not and Russia supply Korea a name, but a term used with illegal workers, to describe all gangsters. either as ‘entertainers’ It is derived from or labourers. In 2001, Chinese characters and eleven people were literally means ‘violent arrested for the theft of organization.’ Scene from the movie Chingu 700 motorcycles which were destined for sale in Jo-pok are broken up South East Asia. into prominent ‘families’; In 1990, the Korean Chilsoeng-pa is one famous government declared a Drug trafficking has become gang, others are Tiger-pa, ‘War Against Crime’; a lucrative for Korean Jo-pok Yangeuni-pa and Ob-pa. series of raids combined with affiliations with the with stringent definitions Thai Kunsa, Columbian Those sporting a short, of organized criminal cartels and the Japanese THE WOLF RETURNS squarish crew-cut hairstyle behaviour which resulted Yakuza. Director: Gu Ja-hong have earned the nickname in most crime-bosses being Cast: ‘ggakdugi’, which is that jailed. These days, organized crime Yang Dong-geun in Korea operates under- cube-shaped radish kimchi Hwang Jeong-min often served with ramyeon. In response to harsher the-radar, but keep in mind corner government controls as that the crime-bosses jailed Year: 2003 Due to a tradition which well as expanding global in the early 90’s have since most Koreans try and aim disdains the use of guns, opportunities, Korean been released. With Dan for and he finds the most combined with a heavy organized crime has Barham out of the way rural police government restriction on stretched outwards into Old families are re- station possible, and get out firearms, the weapons of any venture considered establishing and new of Seoul. There he won’t choice for gang members profitable. ones being formed, which In an effort to try and stick with this have to work much and he are intimidation and the will likely keep Korea’s c i nema can just enjoy nature. sashimi knife - quiet and This has led to increased prosecutorial authority busy month’s issue of be closing down rural police lethal with a double-edged involvement in money- for years to come. Crime and Pun- He ends up transferred stations with no crime rates, blade. laundering schemes, where [email protected] ishment, I tried to track down a rather to a station way up in the and transferring their offic- notable arty Kore- mountains and his idyl- ers to Seoul to aide in the an Crime suspense lic life is interrupted only gang war the city is gearing movie. As has been by his new partner, Jeong- up for, much to the horror orean my problem in the of Cheol-gwon, and the de- k past, I couldn’t find light of Jeong-sik. one, at least not on DVD. Cheol-gwon decides to So instead I ended up rent- engineer a series of crime ing what looked like a Ko- The Wolf“ Returns sprees in the neighborhood rean Buddy Cop movie, is a fluff movie... in order to keep the station which it in fact was, but had open, not realizing that a a few surprises contained but a good fluff very real crime is about to within. movie. happen in his village. The movie opens with our The supporting cast in this protagonist, Cheol-gwon movie is also quite good; (“Iron Fist,” played by Yang the script sets everyone out Dong-geun) in a Seoul sik (Hwang Jeong-min) in the classic buddy cop apartment standing in a who (being a country boy) formula and then turns the dreams of being” transferred standard rules slightly off crime scene looking at the victim only to be told he is to Seoul where he can be a kilter. standing in blood. He sim- ‘real cop.’ ply states, “I’m sick of this The thieves are played by shit.” For the next year Cheol- some very recognizable Ko- gwon’s life passes as he had rean actors (Old Boy being He then finds himself locked hoped with his most signifi- one of their most recent in an elevator for a weekend cant work being the retriev- blockbusters), which gives and this turns out to be the al of errant chickens. Then them a chance to showcase last straw. He decides to do one day a notice comes from their skills at comic acting. the exact opposite of what the government that it will next page THE ulsan Pear 11

The Pear’sEventCalendar

USLUTS Hash House Harriers Writers’ Group Meet every second Sunday Ultimate Frisbee every Sun - Every second Wednesday (Mar 9, 23) @ Foreigner’s day @ 3pm. Riverside next (Mar 2,16,30) at McKenzie’s compound in Bangeojin at to Taewha Rotary. Everyone Bar at 11pm. Share your welcome. 10am. work, crititque or listen. [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

Street Hockey

@ Taewha-dong rollerblade Won Shot Wanderers FC Touch Football rink. Sticks are available. Football matches organized For directions and times Touch football is coming most weekends with league email: to Ulsan! Talk to Troy at play starting soon. Benchwarmers. [email protected] [email protected] wonshotwanderers.bravehost.com [email protected]

Ulsan Uglies Rugby Club

Hae Kom PLayers Touch rugby most Sunday afternoons, riverside @ the This movie starts out look- not all arty and trippy, and The Hae Kom Players have Taewha Rotary. successfully staged two pro - ing like any other buddy cop its not even all that sus- ductions to date. They are al - movie, but ends up being penseful, but it’s a good fluff ways looking for new talent. [email protected] something a little different; movie, the kind that I would the film noir narratives, the gladly sit down to watch poking fun of both the city when I just wanted to be [email protected] and rural life, along with entertained. It’s a fresh take a couple surprising comic on an old genre and wacky twists… (I actually said ‘as enough to be very enjoy- IMPORTANT if’ at one point). They all able. [email protected] make this movie The Won Shot Wanderers FC have been part of the something more Ulsan community now for three years. During this then the sum of its time we have always tried to embrace Korean culture parts. to its fullest.

‘The Wolf Returns’ The Won Shot Wanderers FC is now involved in a book, toy and clothes drive for the Ulsan orphanage. is a fluff movie, its not profound, its Scene from the Wolf Returns Information and letters introducing our charitable cause are available for overseas teachers to take to the directors and managers of their schools. The infor - mation and letters are available from the following places;

Benchwarmers Bar McKenzies Bar Tombstone

Or to save on paper and money, you can email The Won Shot Wanderers for an electronic version at [email protected] m

If you would like further information about what else you can do for the orphanage please do not hesi - tate to contact us.

Anything to add to our event calendar? Email us at [email protected]

The theme of our April issue will Do you have a valuable insight to be BUSAN. So, if you have a story share with everyone? you’d like to report, or if there’s something you’d like to investigate, Want to write for the Pear? do some research and send us 500 words before March 21. Please Send us your submissions to: keep submissions short, concise [email protected] and related to Korea. THE ulsan Pear 12

Now, they apparently were A third supply of soju was JAYWALK AT YOUR OWN RISK as perplexed as I was. To acquired. By the time we break the empty silence I had it finished it was close By John Buckley Unfortunately for you the an earful of Korean. Since I ducked into a local small decided I’d take out an old to their clocking out time. The Ulsan Pear reader it’s the least juicy of possibly the only Korean I shop. They followed me in. photo of myself in police TALES

these offences that I’m go- knew at the time was “Mee- I bought two bottles of Soju. uniform and show it to “my At about four they quitely ing to relate to you here as gook Op-say-eo” (I am not They followed me out. two new friends.” and politely got up and an- Given the follow- it is a principle of the Pear American) I hadn’t one clue yang-hasaeyo-ed their way ing facts that a) I to keep articles relevant to what they had said but had I kept walking towards my At the same time I pulled out the door. And that was am an ex-cop, b) Ulsan. a fair idea of what had hap- apartment always four or out the three cleanest dirty the end of the matter. I hold a Masters pened. five yards ahead. At no stage glasses I could find and ges- degree in Human Stumbling home one did they get close tured towards an offerance It was only later on relating Rights Law and a morning at 2pm after enough to physically of drink. I also gestured to- this story to a colleague at URBAN BA in Law, one a terribly long night restrain me. Why? To wards having a seat and sit- the Writers Group and my might assume that I should during those infamous this day I still don’t ting down. Korean doctor that they have more sense than to end World Cup days, I understand. confirmed to me that two up arrested on a few more brazenly crossed the I don’t know whether it was taps on the shoulder does occassions than once. Such main Samsan-dong I have however since their complete bafflement indeed mean that you have is not the case. road to Daldong on a witnessed rows be- of not knowing what to do been arrested. red light. tween drunken Ko- with this “stupid drunken However before you start reans, who after the way-gook”, the photo, or Technically I had been ar- running for cover in fear I wasn’t oblivious cops having been the soju that did the trick rested but thankfully on that a mass murderer is in to the presence of called have never but amazingly one of the this occassion there were no your midst, let me explain two baby faced cop- done a legger. two took my by now opened handcuffs, prison bars or in the words of the late pers standing straight bottle of soju and began to blood spattered cells. The Justice Lord Denning, that across the road, I was They just all wait pour me a glass. moral of the story is, how- sometimes “the law can in- just completely indif- Ulsan around until the po- ever: wait for the light to go deed be an ass.” ferent to their exist- lice arrive. Why???? In true Korean style the eld- green before you walk. ence. 2002 Koreans have to est got the first drink. After [email protected] It’s not as hard you might - 2005 amongst the most a while we were all one- imagine to literally feel that With a belly full of civially obedient peo- shotting away to our hearts [ed. ~ After many years, and long arm of the law on your Soju and a desire for John Buckley Photo: Dave Harvey ples that I have ever content. many beers, John Buckley is shoulder. a bellyful more it were knocked across. leaving this fair city. As a reg- as if I was daring fate for We tried to carry on a con- ular contributor to the Pear, My non-law abiding “ca- something to happen. And Being that I was only two Anyways, I eventually versation as best we could in John’s writing has enhanced reer” stretches from such it did. minutes from my apartment reached my apartment broken English. One of the many issues of this newspaper. far flung places as Madagas- I just kept walking. This ac- block. They followed me in. few things we could figure We would like to wish him car, Zimbabwe and Eastern Just as I had ghosted apast tion must have stunned my I opened my door. They fol- out was that both were aged well in all his future endeav- Germany to these two boys in blue I two boys as it took them lowed me in removing their 22, were due to finish work ors and say thanks again from and for an array of different felt two taps, one on either a few seconds before they shoes which was more than at 4pm and that neither everyone here at the Ulsan offences. shoulder complimeted by gave pursuit. you can say for me. liked their job. Pear.]