VOL. 102 october 2016
Kyushu Calling 6 12 Recovery in Kumamoto Onsen Heaven Six months after the two major Not for nothing is Kyushu dubbed the earthquakes of April 2016, we spoke with hot tub lover’s paradise. Kumamoto Governor Ikuo Kabashima about the status of recovery in the prefecture. 8 Fun and Games in Fukuoka Welcome to the global game industry’s aspiring Mecca.
14 Destination Trains
Features In Kyushu, getting from A to B is a pleasure in itself.
10 Eastern Kyushu Medical Valley The “Medical Valley” initiative of Miyazaki and Oita Prefectures promises to benefit healthcare institutions far from the island’s shores.
4 22 24
PRIME MINISTER'S SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY HOME AWAY FROM HOME DIARY New Magnesium Alloy to Take A New Way of Tea
Also Off
COPYRIGHT © 2016 CABINET OFFICE OF JAPAN WHERE TO FIND US The views expressed in this magazine by the interviewees Tokyo Narita Airport terminals 1 & 2 ● JR East Travel Service Center (Tokyo Narita Airport) ● JR Tokyo and contributors do not necessarily represent the views of Station Tourist Information Center ● Tokyo Tourist Information Center (Haneda Airport, Tokyo Metropolitan the Cabinet Office or the Government of Japan. No article Government Building, Keisei Ueno Station) ● Niigata Airport ● Chubu Centrair International Airport Tourist or any part thereof may be reproduced without the express Information & Service ● Kansai Tourist Information Center (Kansai Int'l Airport) ● Fukuoka Airport Tourist permission of the Cabinet Office. Copyright inquiries Information ● Foreign Press Center/Japan ● Foreign Correspondents' Club of Japan ● Delegation of the should be made through a form available at: European Union to Japan ● Tokyo University ● Waseda University ● Ritsumeikan Asia Pacific University● Ritsumeikan University ● Kokushikan University ● University of Tsukuba ● Keio University ● Meiji University www.gov-online.go.jp/eng/mailform/inquiry.html ● Osaka University ● Kyushu University ● Kyoto University ● Tohoku University ● Nagoya University ● Sophia University ● Doshisha University ● Akita International University ● International University of Japan
2 | highlighting japan ISSUE 102, OCTOBER 2016
Theme for OCTOBER: KYUSHU CALLING
16 yushu, the third largest of Up, Up and Away Japan’s four main islands, It’s October, so it’s time for the Saga used to comprise Nine International Balloon Fiesta! KProvinces, giving the region its (九州) name. Today Kyushu is made up of seven prefectures: Fukuoka, Kagoshima, 20 Kumamoto, Miyazaki, Nagasaki, Kokuto Shochu — Treasure of the Islands Oita and Saga. Mountainous and On Kyushu’s remote Amami islands, the partly subtropical, the island natives have perfected a very special is home to a rich culture that variety of shochu liquor. still draws heavily on its natural environment but which also 18 sees it lead the way in fields Food, Glorious Kyushu including blood medicine and Some of the tastiest original food in Japan video games. is to be found on the island of Kyushu.
26 28 30
INNOVATIVE ARTISTS TRADITIONAL CRAFTS JAPAN HERITAGE A Button Reborn The Old Bamboo Thank the Lords
PRODUCTION The Japan Journal ON THE COVER MANAGING EDITOR Osamu Sawaji Kyushu Calling EDITOR Alex Hendy Photo: JR Kyushu, Masatoshi Sakamoto, Shiho Murota, ©SIBFO EDITORIAL SUPPORT Jun Ashida, Hitoshi Chiba, Eriko Kiura Fukuoka (pp. 8, 12, 14, 18) CONTRIBUTORS Rob Gilhooly, Toshio Matsubara, Saga (pp. 12, 16, 18) Kyoko Motoyoshi, Takashi Sasaki, Kumiko Sato, Akira Umezawa Nagasaki (pp. 12, 14, 18, back cover) DESIGN Hirofumi Okadome Kumamoto (pp. 6, 12, 14, 18, 22, 30) Oita (pp. 10, 12, 14, 18, 24, 28) PHOTOS Yuichi Itabashi, Masatoshi Sakamoto, Satoshi Tanaka Kagoshima (pp. 12, 14, 18, 20, 26) VIDEOGRAPHY Satoshi Tanaka Miyazaki (pp. 10, 12, 14, 18)
october 2016 | 3 Prime Minister's Diary
71ST SESSION OF THE UN GENERAL ASSEMBLY
rime Minister Shinzo Abe visited New York from September 18 to 24 Pto attend the 71st Session of the United Nations General Assembly. Dur- ing his visit, the Prime Minister deliv- ered an address at the General Assem- bly and attended a high-level meeting of the UN Security Council on Syria. He also attended Taste of Japan, a reception showcasing washoku (Japanese cuisine), held at Carnegie Hall. In his speech at the reception, Prime Minister Abe stated that this year is the 60th anniversary of Japan’s membership in the United Nations and that he wants to deepen exchange through washoku. Prime Minister Abe delivers his address at the United Nations General Assembly.
Prime Minister Abe at Taste of Japan, a reception showcasing washoku (Japanese cuisine)
Prime Minister Abe at the high-level meeting of the UN Security Council on Syria
Photographs and text courtesy of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Japan and the Cabinet Public Relations Office of the Government of Japan. 4 | highlighting japan Feature KYUSHU CALLING
KYUSHU CALLING
The devastating earthquakes of April 2016 brought Kumamoto Prefecture and the wider Kyushu region to the attention of the world. Six months on we visit Kyushu to check on the status of recovery in Kumamoto and find out more about what makes this island special. Each story in the issue introduces aspects of life in Kyushu today, from cutting-edge research and development in the fields of blood medicine and magnesium alloys to the cultural legacy of the Sagara clan and the revival of the lost art of Satsuma button making.
october 2016 Photo: Yuichi Itabashi | 5 Feature KYUSHU CALLING
n April 14 and 16 2016 two major earthquakes caused many fatalities, Recovery in Oinjuries and widespread damage in the Kyushu island prefectures of Kumamoto and Oita. We asked Kumamoto Governor Ikuo Kabashima about the situation in his prefec- KUMAMOTO ture today. Governor, about six months have now passed since the Kumamoto earthquakes. What is the status of recovery in Kumamoto Prefecture? After the quake, over 180,000 people, about 10% of Kumamoto’s population, took shelter at evacuation sites. We completed over 90% of the construction of temporary housing by the end of September and have almost entirely secured housing for those who lost their homes. We are now going through the recon- struction and recovery phase. We’re also taking a variety of steps to sup- port economic recovery. For instance, the national and Kumamoto governments are helping to cover three-quarters of the expenses incurred by small and medium sized enter- prises in rebuilding facilities that were dam- aged by the quake. Financial institutions are also providing low-interest loans and extend- ing repayment deadlines for outstanding loans. This support is paying off. Very few companies have filed for bankruptcy owing to the quake, and the local economy is on the mend.
What is the status of tourism in Kumamoto now? Thanks to the aid system called “Kyushu Fukko-wari” (Discounts for Kyushu recon- struction) established by the government after the quake to support the tourist indus- try in Kyushu, people can travel in Kumamoto Prefecture much more cheaply than before. Kumamoto Prefecture Governor Ikuo Kabashima This has resulted in a substantial rebound in with the prefectural mascot, Kumamon the number of travelers. I think traveling in (This interview was held on September 28)
Photo: Yuichi Itabashi
6 | highlighting japan Kumamoto is a kind of volunteer activity, so we is to further increase our exchanges with foreign hope to welcome more and more visitors to the countries. In order to attract foreigners visiting prefecture going forward. Japan to the nation’s national parks, for exam- As for the restoration of Kumamoto Castle, ple, the Ministry of the Environment in July des- which is the symbol of our prefecture and a very ignated Aso Kuju National Park as one of eight popular tourist destination, we will work hard in national parks on which to concentrate efforts. cooperation with Kumamoto City and the national By further improving park facilities and access, government. We aim for restoration of the don- we hope to enable many more foreign visitors to jon and the surrounding parks to be completed enjoy the majestic natural beauty of the Aso cal- as soon as possible in preparation for the Rugby dera. Preparations will be made to increase the World Cup and the World Women’s Handball number of international flights to Kumamoto Air- Championship in Kumamoto in 2019. Restoration port and to increase calls by large passenger ships of the stone walls and the tower of the castle is to Yatsushiro Port with a view to making it a gate- scheduled to take about twenty years. We plan to way to Asia in Kyushu. make it possible for the general public to see the ongoing restoration process. It also seems that Kumamoto Prefecture’s popu- lar mascot character Kumamon has been appear- How did the people of Kumamoto Prefecture find ing more widely since the quake. encouragement amid the dreadful circumstances Yes, Kumamon is loved not just by the people of following the quake? Kumamoto Prefecture but by many Japanese. The Kumamoto has received much heart-warming major reason we’ve succeeded in making Kuma- support and many encouraging words from peo- mon so popular across the country is its simple ple of all ages. Many volunteers also came to assist design. Another endearing quality of the charac- in the recovery. Moreover, we have received sup- ter is that Kumamon doesn’t talk but simply com- port from people in Taiwan, Korea and elsewhere municates feelings with gestures. We’re allowing overseas. The people of our prefecture, myself the Kumamon image to be used royalty free for included, were touched by this support and are Kumamoto publicity. Sales of various Kumamon deeply grateful. products amounted to over 100 billion yen last Through the quake, the people in Kumamoto year and are expected to exceed that figure this have learned the importance of daily living and year. Through the sale of such products, Kuma- the development of strong bonds among people mon has become well known throughout the with a shared experience of the disaster, and of country, which means very substantial benefits not allowing our feelings of gratitude to be forgot- for our prefecture. We’re putting a lot of effort into ten. I sense that people have also become stronger publicity activities abroad to further increase the psychologically as a result. value of Kumamon. Kumamon is highly popular in Taiwan, Hong Kong, the Chinese mainland and The Recovery and Reconstruction Plan worked Thailand. I hope that Kumamon will play a role in out in August uses the phrase “build back better.” promoting the vibrancy and charm of Kumamoto Could you explain what this means? both at home and abroad as a symbol of recovery “Build back better” means rebuilding conditions from the earthquake. better rather than simply returning to the status quo before the quake. One effort in this regard Inverview by OSAMU SAWAJI
october 2016 | 7 Feature KYUSHU CALLING
The city of Fukuoka, where many game companies are based, aspires to become a Fun and Mecca for the global game industry. Games OSAMU SAWAJI in FUKUOKA
he Japanese city of Fukuoka has been get- ting a lot of attention recently. Fukuoka ranked seventh in a survey of the “World’s TTop 25 Most Livable Cities” published in the June 2016 edition of the British information magazine MONOCLE (Tokyo ranked first, followed by Berlin in second place.) Enchanted by the laid back lifestyle, many people relocate to Fukuoka. As the average age among Japanese people rises, city, town, and village populations continue to fall. Yet the nation’s Akihiro Hino, president and CEO of LEVEL-5 Inc. with characters from 2015 census showed that Fukuoka’s population grew “YO-KAI WATCH.” Photo: Yuichi Itabashi by 5.1% between 2010 and 2015, the fastest pace of any major Japanese city. Fukuoka’s population now games on the market. One example is the “YO-KAI exceeds 1.5 million, making it Japan’s fifth largest city WATCH” series. Since its release, cumulative total by population. domestic and overseas shipments of the video game In addition to its growing population, Fukuoka can have topped 13.5 million units (including the down- boast a rising number of entrepreneurs. A report by load version), and in Japan the product has become the Fukuoka Asian Urban Research Center released in a social sensation with an animated TV show, comic July of this year found that the ratio of new to exist- books, movies, and toys. ing businesses (the startup ratio) for the city grew by In addition to LEVEL-5, many other game makers about 7%, the fastest pace among major Japanese cit- are based in Fukuoka producing numerous hit titles. ies. In this increasingly dynamic business environ- These companies include Ganbarion, creator of “One ment, one sector experiencing exceptional growth in Piece: Unlimited Adventure,” and CyberConnect2, recent years has been the game industry. creator of “Naruto Shippuden: Ultimate Ninja.” As “Fukuoka is a fairly stress-free community,” says game companies in Fukuoka continue to garner criti- Akihiro Hino, president and CEO of LEVEL-5 Inc. cal and commercial acclaim, many game industry “City services are close by, so it’s easy to work and professionals have migrated to the city. About half live here. You don’t have to stand for hours on a of the 280 employees working at LEVEL-5’s head- crowded commuter train to get to work. It’s only a quarters are from outside Fukuoka Prefecture or the short way from the city center to the airport. There Kyushu region. are lots of things to do, and the food is good. It’s basi- One body playing a major role in furthering cally the ideal place for creative work.” the Fukuoka game industry is the Fukuoka Game Launched in Fukuoka in 1998, LEVEL-5 is a typical Industry Promotion Agency, where Hino serves as Japanese game company with many popular video chairman. The Agency was founded in 2006 by the
8 | highlighting japan Fukuoka City Government, Kyushu University, and and the game “Pokémon GO,” based on the “Poké- Game Factory’s Friendship (GFF), an association mon” series, is creating a sensation worldwide. Last comprised mainly of Fukuoka’s game companies. year LEVEL-5 established LEVEL-5 abby in the United The Agency engages in various job training and States as a base for cross-media development over- recruiting activities, such as sponsoring job fairs seas. In this context, YO-KAI WATCH characters are for jobseekers hoping to work in the game industry, now as popular among elementary school children in arranging internships, and holding game contests. South Korea and European countries like France and “Recently, government officers have gained a Spain, as they are in Japan. Localized versions of the much better understanding of the game industry, animated TV show are now broadcast in more than a which is now publicly recognized as an important hundred countries. sector,” says Hino. “The Fukuoka game industry “We didn’t create YO-KAI WATCH with overseas is still developing. I encourage creators to develop markets in mind. It just seems that people around ever more interesting games that people all over the the world have become enamored of the kind of world can enjoy.” supernatural beings or Yo-kai that are unique to Japanese companies have created a variety of Japanese culture,” says Hino. “Like Disney, our aim games that have gained popularity worldwide. For is always to create products that will become popu- example, Prime Minister Shinzo Abe created quite lar among people all over the world. We also hope to a stir after appearing at the closing ceremony of the ensure that Fukuoka will become the Hollywood of Rio de Janeiro Olympics this summer dressed as the the game industry, a place where game specialists game character Mario from “Super Mario Brothers.” gather from all over the world.”
“YO-KAI WATCH” ©LEVEL-5/YWP
october 2016 | 9 Feature KYUSHU CALLING
EASTERN KYUSHU Oita
MEDICAL VALLEY Miyazaki Government, academia and industry have come together in eastern Kyushu to establish a “Medical Valley” that will improve medical care — particularly in the field of blood medicine — far behind the island’s shores.
used for dialysis and infusion, has Miyazaki and Oita Prefectures OSAMU SAWAJI three factories in Hyuga, Miyazaki have jointly developed the East- Prefecture. Kawasumi Laborato- ern Kyushu Medical Valley iyazaki and Oita Pre- ries, Inc., which manufactures Framework, through which the fectures in eastern extracorporeal tubing lines for prefectural governments aim to Kyushu are home to dialysis and blood bag products, in create four medical industry hubs; Ma number of leading which latter field it is Japan’s lead- namely, for research and develop- manufacturers of medical instru- ing supplier, has three factories ment, for the training of skilled ments in the field of blood medi- in Oita. medical workers, for blood related cine. Among them, Asahi Kasei In addition to commercial enter- medicine, and for the medical Medical MT Corp., the global mar- prises, the two eastern Kyushu instrument industry. ket leader in the manufacture of prefectures are home to institutes “By establishing these four the blood purifiers used in kidney of higher education that engage hubs, we will accumulate a wide dialysis and the virus removal and in the research and development range of medical industries and leukocyte reduction filters used for of medical technology, including activate the economy of eastern blood transfusions, has five facto- Ritsumeikan Asia Pacific Univer- Kyushu,” says Kenji Kawauchi of ries in Oita and Nobeoka, Miyazaki sity, Oita University, the University Miyazaki Prefecture’s Industrial Prefecture. Togo Medikit Co., of Miyazaki and Kyushu University Cluster Promotion Office. “We will Japan’s market leader in the pro- of Health and Welfare. also contribute to Asian countries duction of the indwelling needles Focusing on these strengths, through our medical technologies.” There is increasing demand for advanced medical technologies in Asian countries whose economies continue to grow. Miyazaki and Oita are paying particular atten- tion to Thailand, a center for so- called medical tourism because the country’s standard of health-
Thai participants on a care is comparatively high among visit to Kyushu University ASEAN countries. of Health and Welfare Thailand presently has no observe of medical equipment. equivalent to the position of clini- All photos: Courtesy of Miyazaki Prefecture
10 | highlighting japan The automated phlegm suction device jointly developed by Kyushu University of Health and Welfare and a medical device manufacturer cal engineer in Japan. In Japan, ogy personnel development, while clinical engineers are qualified inviting physicians specializing in through national exams to oper- nephrology, dialysis nurses and ate, maintain and inspect medi- engineers from Thailand. The aim cal devices for blood dialysis and of the training is to improve the assisted respiration. For dialysis participants’ dialysis skills and treatment, they are authorized teach accurate methods of operat- to insert and remove needles. In ing, maintaining and inspecting Thailand, on the other hand, the medical devices through lectures, versity of Health and Welfare staff in similar positions are not practical training and visits to will provide support to a medical allowed to touch patients, with companies and hospitals. In total, device training center to be opened physicians and nurses exclusively thirty-seven Thai participants have at Thammasat University in 2017 by donating medical instruments and dispatching teachers. Related parties are also discussing future Ritsumeikan Asia Pacific University (Beppu City) support for the establishment of the qualification system for clinical Oita University (Oita City) engineers in Thailand.
Kawasumi Laboratories, Inc. Under the Eastern Kyushu Med- Manufactures blood tubing lines for dialysis and ical Valley Framework, the devel- blood bags (Saiki City, Bungo Ono City, Usuki City) opment of new medical devices Asahi Kasei Medical MT Corp. Manufactures virus removal is being promoted alongside the and leukocyte reduction filters (Oita City and Nobeoka City) above contributions to Asia. One Kyushu University of Health and Welfare (Nobeoka City) such piece of equipment is the Togo Medikit Co. Manufactures indwelling needles (Hyuga City) automated phlegm suction device that was jointly developed by Kyushu University of Health and Welfare and a medical device man- University of Miyazaki (Miyazaki City) ufacturer. Conventional phlegm suction devices require doctors to momentarily remove a patient’s artificial respirator during medi- cal procedures, placing a burden having this authority. The absence visited Japan to date. on patients and doctors alike. The of qualified clinical engineer staff “The participants were new automated phlegm suction can lead to the improper manage- impressed by the high level of device, which eliminates this need, ment, maintenance and inspection dialysis skills and efficiency at the will be commercialized next year. of medical instruments. hospitals in Japan,” says Kawauchi. “Asian countries other than In this context, in 2013, industry, “They also admired how the Japa- Japan will face a rapid conversion academia and government enti- nese medical companies controlled to an aging society in the future,” ties came together in Miyazaki and safety and hygiene at the medical says Kawauchi. “The demand for Oita to commence training focused equipment manufacturing sites.” new medical technologies from on dialysis-related medical tech- A hub is now being established eastern Kyushu is expected to con- nology as part of medical technol- in Thailand in which Kyushu Uni- tinue to grow.”
october 2016 | 11 Feature KYUSHU CALLING Onsen Heaven According to a report entitled “The Status of Hot Spring Bath Use” published by the Ministry of the Environment in 2014, about 9,500 (or about 35%) of Japan’s approximately 27,000 hot spring (or onsen) sources are located in the seven prefectures of Kyushu. The prefecture having the greatest number of hot spring sources in Japan is Oita Prefecture with 4,381, followed by Kagoshima Prefecture with 2,771. Both prefectures are in Kyushu. Onsen in Kyushu are located near the sea, by rivers, in the mountains or in locations with differing topographies and climates. Visitors to the island can therefore relax at a diversity of onsen. In this article, we introduce one onsen from each of the seven prefectures of Kyushu.
Shikanoshima Photo: Courtesy of Fukuoka City/Fumio Hashimoto Shikanoshima Onsen FUKUOKA
Rising out of Hakata Bank, the island of Shikano shima is linked to the Kyushu mainland by a sand bar, and wafting up from under the island is the Shikanoshima onsen. The road leading out to the island is a single causeway known as the Naka- no-Michi, built above a sandbar with the sea on both sides. The high saline content of the hot water makes it especially effective in warming the body. Visitors to the island can take in the salt breeze, watch the evening sun descend into the sea and soak in the hot water.
Ureshino Onsen SAGA
The hot water of Ureshino onsen is known for soothing the skin. Soaking into the slippery water, bathers find the qualities of the water cleansing away skin secretions and upon emerging find The ashi-yu (hot spring for feet) their skin left feeling smooth and silky. Speci bath at Ureshino onsen alities of the region include Ureshino green tea and Ureshino onsen boiled tofu (or yudofu) simmered in the alkaline water of the onsen. The water of the onsen breaks down the protein in the tofu, producing a particularly soft type of boiled tofu. Diners can enjoy it at Japanese-style ryokan inns or restaurants.
Unzen Onsen NAGASAKI
Unzen Onsen is nestled amidst virgin forests on the slopes of Mount Unzen, a vol cano located in the middle of the Shimabara Peninsula and the first of Japan’s vol canic areas to be included in the Global Geoparks Network. A volcanic area known Unzen Jigoku at Unzen Onsen as Unzen Jigoku (literally “Unzen Hell”) is located in the middle of the main string of volcanic baths, where the air is permeated with the odor of sulfur, and volcanic vents emit 12 | highlighting japan incessant clouds of white steam. In the Meiji (1868–1912) and Taisho (1912–1926) periods, the area was a health resort popular among foreigners, including Pearl Buck and Helen Keller. Kurokawa onsen on the Tanohara-gawa river
Kurokawa Onsen KUMAMOTO
The onsen district of Kurokawa has been described as being much like a sin gle inn, with the streets as hallways and the Japanese ryokan inns as the guest rooms. Some twenty quaint inns are nestled together along a stream in a moun Onsen Heaven tain gorge, lending the scene a serene charm. The town is popular for the quaint way it blends with nature and for the warm hospitality of the locals. Especially popular are the “bath tickets,” which allow visitors to try open-air rotenburo baths at three inns. Also popular are “kappa tickets,” which allow guests to enjoy drinks as they walk through the neighborhood.
Gozenyu, a hot spring facility at Nagayu onsen
Nakayu Onsen OITA
The Beppu onsen and the Yufuin onsen are particularly well known among Oita Prefecture onsen, but the Nagayu onsen in the city of Taketa is lauded as the premier car bonated water hot spring in Japan. Famous for the beneficial properties of its waters, it has an old history and is included in the list of 100 top onsen in Japan. Effective whether imbibed or when soaked in, the waters of the Nagayu onsen are reputedly good for the heart, stom ach and bowels. Many people come to Nagayu onsen for a “hot spring cure,” or to recover from illness by remaining there for an extended period.
Aoshima seashore
Aoshima Onsen MIYAZAKI
Aoshima onsen bubbles up near the Aoshima seashore, a typical Japanese beach resort. The resort hotels have open-air baths with ocean vistas, enabling guests to sink into the water while gazing out over the open Pacific. The water of the Aoshima onsen is infused with hydrogen carbonate, which has the effect of cleansing and beautifying the skin.
● : Major hot springs Sunamushi onsen
Ibusuki Onsen KAGOSHIMA
Ibusuki onsen is famous for its sunamushi (literally, “sand steam”) onsen. Here, guests do not soak in hot water but instead are bur ied in sand at the beach. Wearing a yukata (light robe), they lay face up on the sand. The onsen staff then cover them with sand. The onsen staff then cover them with sand. Though ordinary sand, it’s heated by the hot springs in the area and therefore becomes quite warm. When thoroughly covered with sand from the neck down, the whole body sweats profusely, stimulating the circulation. Sunamu shi is therefore something like a kind of natural sauna. october 2016 | 13 Feature KYUSHU CALLING Hakata
Tosu Beppu Hita Oita Sasebo Kurume Huis Ten Bosch Yufuin
Kumamoto Destination Nagasaki Shin Yatsushiro Yatsushiro Trains Hitoyoshi On JR Kyushu’s Design & Story trains, getting there is half the fun. Miyazaki Minami Miyazaki JUN ASHIDA Kagoshima Chuo
Aru Ressha Nango Limited Express Yufuin no Mori Limited Express Umisachi-Yamasachi Ibusuki SL Hitoyoshi Limited Express Ibusuki no Tamatebako
Aru Ressha Running between Sasebo and Nagasaki
In 1906, the private railroad company Kyushu Rail- way imported a certain train from the United States. Limited Express Yufuin no Mori It was the most luxuriously decorated train in Japan Running between Hakata and Beppu at the time. However, before the train could be put into operation, The bright green design of the Limited Express the company was Yufuin no Mori was inspired by the lush forests of nationalized. Aru the Kyushu mountains. The interior of the train is Ressha resurrects furnished in warm wood and other fittings that lend the spirit and it a classic atmosphere. Passengers can enjoy the design of that views from the train window or head to the lounge train. The body to relax and pick up some information from the train is painted in gold attendant about and decorated The luxurious interior of an Aru Ressha destinations coach with black ara- along the route. besque designs. The spacious coaches are lined with a variety of woods, carpeted, and furnished with wide tables and armchairs. A sweets menu is served that includes local delicacies such as chestnuts and The lounge coach on strawberries. Yufuin no Mori All photos: Courtesy of JR Kyushu
14 | highlighting japan Hakata
Tosu Beppu Hita Oita Sasebo Kurume Huis Ten Bosch Yufuin
Kumamoto Nagasaki
Shin Yatsushiro Yatsushiro
Hitoyoshi
Miyazaki Minami Miyazaki
Kagoshima Chuo Limited Express Umisachi-Yamasachi Aru Ressha Nango Running between Miyazaki and Nango Limited Express Yufuin no Mori Limited Express Umisachi-Yamasachi Ibusuki SL Hitoyoshi SL Hitoyoshi Umisachi-Yamasaki runs along a coastline with Running between Kumamoto and Hitoyoshi Limited Express Ibusuki no Tamatebako a view that is characterized by the bright blue of the sea and the greenery of the mountain valley, SL Hitoyoshi is a steam locomotive that was made depending on which side of the carriage you sit. The about 100 years ago and which puffs along the scenic train comprises just two cars: the Umisachi car and Kuma-gawa river. The passenger cars are decorated the Yamasachi car. Beautifully scented Obi cedar, a in a chic classical style using wood, fabrics and genu- specialty of Nichinan, is lavishly used in the exterior ine leather. The two observation cars afford alterna- and interior of both coaches, which are fitted with tive views of the passing countryside. The nostalgic sofa-type seats. On this atmosphere aboard this train is only accentuated in train an attendant tells the Snack Bar, where passengers may choose to order the ancient legend of the Ogottsuo Bento, a boxed lunch exclusive to the Umisachi and Yamasachi SL Hitoyoshi, or settle for a shochu ice cream made using picture cards. with the local Kuma Shochu A train attendant recounts the distilled liquor. ancient legend of the train’s name using picture cards The train’s exclusive Ogottsuo Bento
Limited Express Ibusuki no Tamatebako Running between Kagoshima Chuo and Ibusuki
Ibusuki no Tamatebako is a tourist train which runs along the coast of the Satsuma Peninsula. Its theme is the folk legend of the Sea God’s Palace. The exterior of the coach is divided into two parts, left and right, the divide running straight down the middle. One side is painted white, the other black. When the train arrives at a sta- tion and the door opens, a white smoke-like mist drifts out from the top of the door, evoking that fate- ful scene in the Sea God’s Palace legend when Urashima Taro, the protagonist, disobeys instructions A coach discharges a plume of smoke-like mist evoking the climax scene to the folk and opens the beautiful casket. legend of the Sea God’s Palace.
october 2016 | 15 Feature KYUSHU CALLING UP, UP AND AWAY The rise of the Saga International Balloon Fiesta
TAKASHI SASAKI Many visiting balloonists take the opportunity to home-stay with local families. Courtesy of Saga City International Relations Association
Saga International Balloon Fiesta ©SIBFO
aga plain in the north- mately 100 hot air balloons from Sea, the largest bay in Kyushu, west of Kyushu is land on countries around the world have lies to the south of the Saga plain, which rice has been culti- participated in the event in each of mountains 1,000 meters above sea vated since ancient times. the last several years, and the fes- level, such as Tenzan and Sefuri- S 2 The plain is some 700 km in size tival now attracts approximately san mountains, stand to the north. and, with the exception of one or 800,000 spectators from all over The wind blowing in from the sea two built-up areas, it is covered Japan, making it the biggest bal- and the wind issuing down from with rice fields as far as the eye can loon festival anywhere in Asia. the mountains collide in the air see, even today. “There are no obstacles such as above the Saga plain, causing com- Every October for the last thirty- tall buildings in the rice fields, and plex wind flows. This creates the six years, Saga plain has served in autumn or winter after the rice ideal conditions for a hot air bal- as the venue for the Saga Inter- is harvested, the balloons are able loon competition.” national Balloon Fiesta. The first to take off and land in the fields Unlike airships, hot air balloons Balloon Fiesta in 1980 featured thanks to the cooperation of the do not have propellers. However, fourteen hot air balloons. Since farmers,” says Seishiro Yuzuriha of they can be made to ascend or then, the scale of the festival has the Economics Department of Saga descend by heating or cooling the grown larger every year. Approxi- City. “Moreover, while the Ariake air inside the envelope using a
16 | highlighting japan Character-shaped balloons at Balloon Fantasia ©SIBFO
at present, including those at high Hot Air Balloon Championship schools and universities that are SAGA 2016. The 2016 Hot Air Bal- unique to Japan,” says Yuzuriha. loon Honda Grand Prix will also “Many people enjoy hot air bal- be held during the festival, along looning. And because local resi- with the Balloon Fantasia featur- dents have the opportunity to ing character-shaped balloons, enjoy hot air balloons in flight, and an event called La Montgol- many choose to participate in the fier Nocturne, in which colorful preparation and management of hot air balloons illuminated by the burner that is installed in a basket. the festival on a voluntary basis.” fires of their burners will emerge As the direction and strength of During the Balloon Fiesta, many from the dark accompanied by the winds are different at different competitors and related parties fireworks and music. The total altitudes, balloonists control their come to the area from overseas, number of participating balloons direction by adjusting the altitude and many of them home-stay in is expected to exceed the previous of their balloon. In a competition, the houses of ordinary citizens. At record of 187, and the number of the aim is mainly for the balloons the festival gathering place mean- spectators is likely to be a record to reach designated goal carry- while, handmade dishes using 1.2 million. ing out a variety of tasks, such as local foods are provided. This type “When the rice harvest is over, dropping markers (lightweight of hospitality is greatly appreci- everybody in Saga starts to say that bag with a tail) onto a target on ated by the visiting participants. the balloon season has arrived,” the ground. For this reason, it is This year’s festival will be held says Yuzuriha. “We would like to more important than anything over ten days between October 28 continue to enhance the Balloon else to accurately read the com- and November 6, and as this year’s Fiesta of Saga as an event that is plex wind flows. event is the FAI World Hot Air Bal- admired and loved by the local “In Saga City, there are approxi- loon Championship, it will offi- communities, and that people will mately forty hot air balloon clubs cially be called the 22nd FAI World be proud of in the future.”
october 2016 | 17 Feature KYUSHU CALLING Food, Glorious Seven dishes for Kyushu seven prefectures Fukuoka Saga urrounded by the sea Oita on four sides, Kyushu Nagasaki has since olden times had Kumamoto Sexchanges with various Miyazaki foreign countries. In addition to foods made from a rich diversity Kagoshima of marine products, Kyushu boasts a great variety of dishes. These include dishes influenced by for- eign cultures such as kasutera, a skipjack flakes), soy sauce and vin- type of sponge cake originating egar. Popular since the Edo period in Spain, but also include dishes (1603–1867), it still makes frequent originated as a dish which the peo- passed down from the days of Jap- appearances on breakfast tables in ple of a feudal domain served to anese feudalism. Given Kyushu’s the Hakata district of Fukuoka. In their lord. Nowadays, it is served location in the south of Japan, the old days, elementary school as a delicacy on special occasions. which has a warm climate, locals children are said to have sold it for have had to devise innovative pocket money. preservation methods, so many foods from Kyushu incorporate the Sukozushi (Saga) wisdom and ingenuity of Southern Japan. In this article, we highlight Sukozushi is a kind of pressed one famous dish from each of the sushi with a history that goes back island’s seven prefectures. over 500 years. Sushi rice con- taining mochi (sweet rice) is cut Okyuto (Fukuoka) into rectangles which are then arranged in a wooden box called Karasumi (Nagasaki) Okyuto is a seaweed noodle dish a morobuta and then topped with which is made by boiling and then mutsugoro (mudskipper) basted Karasumi is made by drying salt- straining a type of seaweed called in sweet sauce, pickles or various pickled mullet roe naturally in egonori (Campylaephora hypnae- other colorful and decorative con- the sun until it has a shiny amber oides) which is then cooled until diments such as shrimp or kinshi appearance. Karasumi was first firm. It is rich in dietary fiber and tamago. Each individual piece of introduced from overseas as a minerals and has virtually no calo- sushi is regarded as a rice paddy food made from Japanese Span- rie content. Cut into long noodles and the kinshitamago, which is ish mackerel roe between the end and served with grated ginger, it arranged in a circle, is regarded of the sixteenth to the early sev- is topped with katsuo-bushi (dried as the full moon. It is said to have enteenth centuries, but in Naga-
18 | highlighting japan Toriten (Oita) sesame and other condiments. It makes a quick meal at meal times Toriten is a kind of tempura made between farm work during the hot with chicken. It is a typical food of summer and is prepared so as to Oita Prefecture, which consumes provide a fast supply of energy. more chicken meat than any other prefecture in Japan. The chicken meat is dipped in a base seasoning (shita-aji), rolled in flour and then saki it came to be prepared using fried, after which it is served with the roe of mullet, which thrive in a hot mustard or other sweet sauce large numbers in the local seas. dip. Although frequently prepared The beautiful amber color can be in the home, it is also served in a created only by careful prepara- wide variety of places, includ- tion from the blood-flushing stage ing restaurants, Japanese style through drying. tavern restaurants (izakaya), Chi- Tsukeage (Kagoshima) nese restaurants, coffee shops and Horse Meat Cuisine (Kumamoto) lunch-box stands (bento-ya). Each Tsukeage is prepared by mixing establishment has its own style of ground fish meat with vegetables Basashi is sashimi made from seasoning and cooking, so a vari- and other ingredients, which are horse meat. Seasoned with grated ety of tastes are available. then deep-fried. It is known all ginger, grated garlic, Welsh onion over Japan as Satsuma-age largely and other condiments, it is thin- because it originated in Kagoshima sliced then eaten with sweet soy Prefecture, which was formerly sauce, together with thinly sliced the feudal domain of Satsuma. raw onion. According to legend, Kagoshima tsukeage is distinctive the Daimyo Kiyomasa Kato (1562– in having a sweet taste. It is made 1611), who governed Kumamoto, by adding generous quantities of popularized the custom of eating sweet local sake and brown sugar horse meat in Kumamoto. After to the ground meat. The added the Second World War, however, it sugar not only helps keep it fresh became popular among common Hiyajiru (Miyazaki) but lends it status because, sugar folk to consume horse meat not being a precious commodity in the just as basashi but broiled, smoked Hiyajiru is a dish prepared by old days, it was served to welcome and pot-boiled. pouring cold soup with various guests of honor. ingredients over rice. Though very simple, it is a very nutritious local dish. First, pieces of toasted fish meat are combined with miso, ground in a mortar and then grilled. It is then mixed with a cold soup-stock, or dashi, and served over rice with round-cut pieces of cucumber, chunks of tofu, libiate,
october 2016 | 19 Feature KYUSHU CALLING Brown sugar is unloaded into a container at Kaiun Shuzo.
Kokuto Shochu Treasure of the Islands
Kyushu is known as the birthplace and heartland sugar cane, kokuto shochu characteristically has a of the national drink known as shochu (distilled faint aroma of brown sugar and a rich, malted rice- liquor). Kyushu’s remote Amami islands meanwhile derived flavor because it is prepared with the use of are known as the production center of a rare and malted rice and sugar cane-derived brown sugar. special variety of the drink, kokuto shochu. “The sugar cane plantations on the Amami islands are said to date back to the seventeenth KYOKO MOTOYOSHI century. However, the brown sugar made from this sugar cane was exclusively sold by the Satsuma- he Amami archipelago consists of eight han, the domain that governed the Amami archi- inhabited islands that are home to nearly pelago at that time. The islanders were not allowed 130,000 people. The main island, Amami to use brown sugar,” says Shojiro Maki of the Amami TOshima, is located nearly 380 kilometers Branch of Kagoshima Sake Brewers Association. south-southwest of Kagoshima in Kyushu. Each “However, according to a book written in the nine- island in the archipelago is full of rich and diverse teenth century, shochu was already being made forms of nature, such as one of Japan’s largest sub- from sugar cane juice at that time, implying that our tropical laurel forests, a white-sand beach, and beau- ancestors on these islands secretly distilled brown tiful ocean waters with an abundance of coral reefs. sugar-based liquor.” The weather on the islands remains warm through- Today, kokuto shochu is made by twenty-five out the year, with an annual average temperature of breweries on the five islands of Amami Oshima, 21°C and plenty of rainfall. Tokunoshima, Kikaijima, Okinoerabujima and Amami is the only place in Japan where kokuto Yoronjima, with the volume shipped in recent years (brown sugar) shochu (distilled liquor) is produced. totaling approximately 7,500 kiloliters. Easily iden- While rum is also a type of distilled liquor made from tified by its cool aqua bottle, Lento is a particularly
20 | highlighting japan 1 2
1 Kaiun Shuzo’s tanks for Lento are equipped with audio devices from which classical music plays. “Lento” is a musical term for a slow tempo. 2 Yoshimi Kozuma of Kaiun Shuzo monitors the progress of fermentation by checking the smell that comes from the tank. 3 Kaiun Shuzo’s Lento 4 Sakaya Maekawa, a liquor shop that sells kokuto shochu from all of the breweries on 3 4 the Amami islands popular brand of kokuto shochu and boasts the larg- Kokuto shochu comes in a diverse range of flavors. est volume shipped among all brands made on the Varieties distilled under reduced pressure are very islands. Produced by Amami Oshima Kaiun Shuzo, a popular, while some people are fond of the conven- brewery established in 1996 on Amami Oshima, Len- tional atmospheric distillation kokuto shochu, which to’s popularity stems from its light, refreshing flavor is characterized by a deep flavor and aroma. Brown and mild texture. Lento is aged in a tank with classi- sugar, the main ingredient of kokuto shochu, also cal music playing all around it. The brewer says the comes in many different forms. Some brands use vibrations of the music facilitate the aging and help only locally sourced pure brown sugar, while other soften the taste. Moreover, 90% of Kaiun Shuzo’s brands procure brown sugar from Okinawa or import products are distilled under reduced pressure. The it from other countries. The hardness of the water brewery utilizes a principle of lowering the boiling also varies among islands. One factor that makes point by reducing the pressure of the distiller and kokuto shochu appealing is that it allows people to distilling the liquor at about 40°C. appreciate these differences. “Lento is also distilled under reduced pressure. “Many people drink kokuto shochu mixed with It is especially well-liked among women because it water at local drinking establishments or at other has a lighter taste than kokuto shochu made with gatherings. Younger people are increasingly leaning the traditional atmospheric distillation process,” towards drinking shochu on the rocks or with soda,” says Yoshimi Kozuma, production manager. “Kokuto says Haruki Maekawa of Sakaya Maekawa, a liquor shochu still accounts for a very small portion of the shop that sells kokuto shochu from all of the brew- volume of shochu shipped around the country. We eries on the Amami Archipelago. “To the people on would like more people, both in Japan and abroad, to the Amami archipelago, kokuto shochu is the trea- discover the taste of this rare liquor brewed here on sure of the islands, and is as common and indispens- these remote islands.” able as air.” All photos: Masatoshi Sakamoto
october 2016 | 21 Series SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY New Magnesium Alloy TO TAKE OFF A flame-resistant magnesium alloy developed by Professor Yoshihito Kawamura at Kumamoto University is attracting attention around the world, not least in the air- craft industry.
as a five-year industry/academia/govern- AKIRA UMEZAWA ment project primarily based in Kumamoto Prefecture. Thereafter, in 2011, Kuma- s the lightest of all the structural moto University established the Magne- metals (a quarter that of iron and sium Research Center and invited Professor two thirds that of aluminum), Kawamura to be its director. magnesium is widely used in One of the research challenges for the suchA applications as computer and camera center relates to the application of KUMADAI casing. However, conventional magnesium Magnesium Alloy as a structural material in alloys ignite at temperatures of between airplanes. The aircraft industry is a promis- 550 and 600 degrees centigrade, limiting ing one for the application of magnesium their applications. alloys because weight reduction greatly Professor When Professor Yoshihito Kawamura of affects fuel consumption. The Federal Avia- Yoshihito Kumamoto University’s Graduate School tion Administration (FAA) had forbidden the Kawamura Kumamoto of Science and Technology began research- use of magnesium alloys in airplanes, but in University ing magnesium in 1999, development of response to strong requests from materials Graduate School of Science and magnesium alloys was said to be at its limit. manufacturers, in 2007 revised its testing Technology However, Professor Kawamura persisted in methods for flammable materials. Photo: Akira Umezawa his quest for an alloy that drew new proper- In February 2013, Professor Kawamura ties from magnesium and thereby increased sent samples of the KUMADAI Magnesium their range of applications. After a long Alloy to the FAA to request testing using the process of tests on some 450 alloy blends, administration’s latest combustion meth- in which he changed metal blend ratios by ods. The following month the FAA reported 1% at a time, in 2003 Professor Kawamura that the KUMADAI Magnesium Alloy had developed a lightweight magnesium alloy not ignited after being heated at 930°C for incorporating zinc and yttrium that boasted four minutes. a unique characteristic for a magnesium “The FAA’s material acceptance criteria alloy: flame-resistance. are that a sample should not ignite within The development of basic technolo- two minutes after the start of heating, and gies for commercialization of this next- that after ignition, the flame should extin- generation KUMADAI Magnesium Alloy guish naturally within three minutes after (Kumadai is the short name for Kumamoto heating stops. That is, the criteria are based University in Japanese) commenced in 2006 on the condition or assumption that the
22 | highlighting japan 1 2
1 The KUMADAI Magnesium Alloy 2 The Magnesium Research Center 3 Researchers at the Magnesium Research Center in Kumamoto University 3 Photo: Courtesy of Kumamoto University
samples actually ignite. Our samples did not ignite at Magnesium Alloy in medical fields, such as in the all, far exceeding the acceptance criteria,” says Pro- bolts and joining plates used in treating fractures and fessor Kawamura. in coronary artery stents. Such metal devices usu- Subsequently, the FAA removed the ban on the ally need to be removed after a period of time, but use of magnesium alloys in airplanes, sparking joint magnesium dissolves if it is left in the body for six development between Kumamoto University and the months to a year. In this scenario the disadvantage of Boeing Company in 2014. The two entities are pro- magnesium, the ease with which it erodes, becomes ceeding with research aimed at introducing the mate- an advantage, reducing the burden on patients. Tests rial to an airplane whose development will commence using the material on mice will commence shortly. in 2020. “If magnesium alloys become widespread “Our center is ready to undertake the world’s in the aircraft industry, it is certain to stimulate their highest-level research,” says Professor Kawamura. application in other fields as well, such as automobiles “We would like to make Kumamoto a global hub for and high-speed trains,” says Professor Kawamura. the research and development of cutting-edge mag- The Magnesium Research Center is pres- nesium alloys and attract manufacturers of applied ently investigating the application of KUMADAI products to the area.”
october 2016 | 23 Series HOME AWAY FROM HOME
Holly Helt, Alex Sanson and pet dog Jasmine outside Chiki Tea café in Nakatsu, A New Way Oita Prefecture of Tea
Holly Helt & Alex Sanson
Green tea connoisseurs Holly Helt and Alex Sanson of the stiffness that often typifies traditional Japa- are introducing a fresh take on the brew to the tea nese tea houses. Carefully sourced matcha as well as drinkers of Japan through their popular Chiki Tea kabusecha and other tea cultivars were served not in café and online store. chawan tea bowls, but in demitasse cups, while Japa- nese sweets were replaced by chocolate brownies, ROB GILHOOLY scones and cheese cake — all in a self-designed space oozing sophistication and warmth. n 2013 Holly Helt and Alex Sanson came to Japan “I wanted Japanese tea to be viewed not as intimi- — to Kyushu in particular — with a clear objec- dating, but something that is accessible and fun, a tive: To locate the nation’s best tea producers pleasure of life,” says Helt, who first thought about and highest quality teas. A year later, having opening a café back in New York over a decade ago, foundI their tea, they decided the best way to share when she was helping to promote and market Chi- it with the world would be by opening a café chain, nese tea to the West. starting in Nakatsu, Oita Prefecture, where they were It was around that time that she came up with the based. The off-beat café that American Helt and café name “Chiki,” which, she explains, is the combi- Briton Sanson would build from scratch was destined nation of two Chinese characters that she interprets to cause much more that just a storm in a teapot. as meaning “the way of the child.” When Chiki Tea opened in 2014, there was none “The idea is that everyone has an inner child and
24 | highlighting japan 1 2 3 4
1 Holly Helt serves a customer at Chiki Tea Chiki’s job is to help you access that inner child,” she 2 A nice cup of matcha and a brownie says. “We do that through fun quirky teapots that 3 “Sweet, fresh and summery” kabusecha tea don’t conform to conventions, and Western flavors 4 Holly Helt at Chiki Tea that pair well with Japanese teas. This makes for an easier gateway into the whole tea experience.” award-winning Hoshino Tea Gardens in the Yame dis- Helt says her fascination with Japanese tea has trict of western Fukuoka. been brewing since it was introduced to her by her Hoshino became Helt’s first grower of what she soda-loathing mother as a toddler, when she spent classes “rock star” status. “It takes a truly skilled arti- some time in Japan following her father’s work place- san to pull out from the leaves the exceptional taste ment here. that we have been finding from these rock stars,” says In 2008 she met Sanson, a graphic designer by Helt, who has penned a book about Japanese tea — trade who found her enthusiasm for Japan’s national Green is the New Black — with illustrations by Sanson. beverage infectious. “I fell in love with the flavor of “They will know immediately how to bring out cer- green tea immediately,” he says. tain characteristics of tea grown in a certain region.” So much so, in fact, that by 2013 the couple had While Helt and Sanson have now sourced many established a company selling a variety of Japanese teas high-quality loose leaf teas, customers at Chiki Tea to British and American consumers via the Internet. have shown a greater penchant for their Silk matcha, The success of that operation encouraged Helt and which is also from the Yame region. Sanson to take their business in a new and arguably “We quickly discovered that the younger gen- even more challenging direction, opening a café close eration is not drinking so much loose leaf and that to one of Japan’s best known tea-growing regions. demand for matcha has placed a strain on supply,” “Our mission was to come here — to Kyushu in says Sanson. “We would never have known this if we particular — and find the very best quality teas,” says hadn’t opened the café. In many ways, it has been Helt, who is a long-time student of sado tea ceremony a steep learning curve, but one we have benefitted and a self-confessed “tea hunter.” “There are a lot of from hugely.” products in the West that just have ‘green tea’ written The couple is now looking to take their brand to on the back. But that’s not necessarily a guarantee of other cities in Japan. “In the next Chiki iteration quality or good taste. There are hundreds of varieties there will be more food on the menu,” says Helt, who in Japan and I was sure many of them must be consid- bakes all the cakes and other items on the Chiki Tea erably better.” menu in a bakery she built on the premises in central Helt’s hunting expeditions in the Kyushu coun- Nakatsu. “But we love high quality teas and the focus tryside — usually accompanied by her dog Jas- will remain on hunting down the best teas and mak- mine — unveiled some prize findings, including the ing them accessible to everyone.” All photos: Rob Gilhooly
october 2016 | 25 Series INNOVATIVE ARTISTS
1 2 A Button Reborn Kagoshima’s traditional craft object the Satsuma who has worked to revive the art of Satsuma button- button has been given a new lease of life by designer making almost since she first laid eyes on a set of Shiho Murota. genuine Satsuma buttons when she was 28. “The buttons dated from the beginning of the KYOKO MOTOYOSHI nineteenth century,” Murota explains. “They were as small as 4 to 5 centimeters across and depicted time- less scenes from Japanese nature. I was immediately atsuma-yaki is a style of earthenware inspired by them.” named after its place of origin, Kagoshima Murota was a painter of tea pottery at a Satsuma- Prefecture (formerly Satsuma). One of yaki kiln at the time. In 2005, she chose to become the products traditionally made from this independent and opened her own studio, called ceramicS is the Satsuma button, an ornamental but- Etsuke-sha Satsuma-shishi, in a mountain village ton typically adorned with intricate pictures of the in Tarumizu, Kagoshima Prefecture. Her decision natural world painted in vibrant colors. Captivat- has awakened the beauty of the forgotten art of ing foreigners newly arrived in Japan in the mid- Satsuma buttons. nineteenth century in the same way that ukiyo-e Initially Murota found it challenging to paint woodblock prints did, Satsuma buttons were exten- detailed images on a tiny button. It was also diffi- sively exported. However, the craft practically died cult, she says, to find a local craftsman capable of out over half a century ago and today there are only a making button-shaped Satsuma-yaki earthenware. handful of craftspeople still making the buttons. Murota nevertheless persevered with her art, not Shiho Murota is a ceramic painter from Kagoshima with a view merely to reproducing the styles of old,
26 | highlighting japan 4
Satsuma buttons designed by (4) Shiho Murota depicting (1) cranes (4 cm), (2) a Satsuma chicken on Sakurajima island (5 cm) and (3) chrysanthemums (5 cm) All photos: Courtesy of Shiho Murota 3 750°C and then cooled outside. The design is then but to creating chic fashion accessories with con- fine tuned with the addition of more color paintwork temporary appeal. before the button is fired once more. Further paint- Murota’s first exhibition in 2007 attracted the ing is undertaken with gold or platinum, which is fol- attention of art enthusiasts, and since that early suc- lowed by another firing at 620°C lasting three hours. cess she has held many exhibitions around Japan. Lastly, the gold paint on the surface is polished to Murota’s Satsuma buttons feature incredibly fine complete the production process. art work hand-painted on buttons as small as 1 to 3 Murota’s Satsuma buttons are available for sale centimeters in diameter. Her motifs include insects, at art shops in Kagoshima, with some buttons being animals and scenes of nature that surround her studio, made to order for individual customers. Many pur- including the Oniyanma, Japan’s largest dragonfly. chase the buttons for use as earrings, finger rings and “When I was a child I played in the mountains sash clips, Murota says, not just as buttons for clothes. and grew fond of the insects and animals,” says Mur- “Many of my customers buy the buttons as gifts ota. “The Oniyanma flying around my studio today for their close friends or loved ones,” says Murota. are extremely beautiful. The insect’s eyes turn black “One day I received an order for cufflinks as a pres- when it dies, but they are a stunning emerald green ent for the customer’s grandfather in celebration of while it is alive.” his 70th birthday. I painted them with little birds in Murota usually paints on a porcelain button called violet, which in Japan is considered a symbolic color the “Shiro Satsuma,” which features an ivory-like for seventy years of age.” white glaze with tiny cracks on the surface. The Last year Murota participated in the annual con- techniques she uses were introduced from Kiyomizu vention of the National Button Society in the United in Kyoto by the craftsmen of Satsuma in the eigh- States. Her works of art attract a great deal of atten- teenth century. tion from keen button collectors all around the First, an outline is drawn in gold or platinum on world. Satsuma buttons have been reborn, captivat- the button and then the colors are painted in. Next, ing overseas art lovers the same way they did 150 the button is fired for about four hours in a kiln at years ago.
october 2016 | 27 Series TRADITIONAL CRAFTS
1 2 The Old Bamboo The spa resort of Beppu in Oita Prefecture is home to one of Japan’s last remaining bamboo weaving communities.
ROB GILHOOLY
3
4
5 6 7
All photos: Rob Gilhooly 28 | highlighting japan Series
itting on the floor of his two-story work- flourished as a spa resort from around the 1870s. shop, Ichiro Iwao uses a knife to make a Ably supported by tourism entrepreneur Aburaya vertical slit in the tip of a 1.5-meter strip of Kumahachi, visitors made their way in droves via bamboo and expertly divides the slightly a new train line and shipping routes from Osaka to dampenedS wood lengthways using his teeth, thumb soak in the soothing waters of Beppu Onsen. The and forefinger, the trailing end tightly clamped city soon underwent a construction boom, but with between his big and second toes. In a few seconds few joiners able to meet the demand for quality ryo- he has produced two 0.4 mm-thick lengths of bam- kan inns, a technical college was opened at the turn boo, which are passed on to his wife, Yoshie, and her of the twentieth century, with a large department coworker, Satsuki Taniwaki, who deftly weave the devoted to the teaching of bamboo carpentry and pieces into baskets ordered by a company growing craft making. matsutake mushrooms. “Among the items required at the inns were qual- Downstairs, a fourth member, Shunichi Misawa, ity bamboo vases for tokonoma alcoves and small is busily stripping bamboo in a process known as writing desks, as well as baskets for storing rice and kawa-migaki (bark polishing). He explains that the other commodities,” explains Hiroyuki Minamoto, madake (woody) bamboo has already been boiled to curator of the Beppu Traditional Bamboo Crafts Cen- remove oils and then dried for several weeks before ter. “Such items became emblematic of so-called being cut into manageable lengths and stripped to shitsurai — the welcoming ambience of the ryokan.” make the surface smooth. The wood is then deliv- Soon, demand for bamboo products as souvenirs ered upstairs for Iwao and the weavers at Iwao Chi- grew, he adds, spawning an important industry for kuran in Beppu, Oita Prefecture to work on. the city. Consequently, the number of bamboo crafts- Bamboo products have a long history in Beppu, men in the city increased, and Iwao Chikuran, which with an entry in the Nihon shoki, Japan’s second old- was established by Ichiro’s grandfather in 1919, was est extant historical chronicle, reporting that a chef among the earliest workshops in operation, at one of the twelfth Emperor Keiko (71–130) used Beppu’s time boasting a team of twenty, Iwao says. bamboo to make baskets during a visit to the city. As a child, Ichiro helped out with the family busi- Initially such practical items made from this giant ness, counting bamboo strips or holding bamboo grass were produced by farmers and fishermen to pieces as they were “polished.” As a teenager, he carry and store their produce, and then as Japan studied at the Oita Bamboo Technical Training Sup- ended centuries of seclusion from the outside world port Center, an offshoot of the original college. in the late 1800s, the bamboo craft industry began to “My father told me this job is tough, but once I grow, according to Iwao. started, I never looked back,” says Iwao. This was particularly true for Beppu, a city that While the industry has shrunk dramatically over the past three decades and the number of commu- nities around Japan practicing the once popular 1 A bamboo dividing wall, created by local artisans, at the Hana art of bamboo weaving now total just three, Iwao Beppu ryokan inn in Beppu, Oita Prefecture 2 Bamboo paperweights created by local artisans on display at the says there is no sign of it dying out. Students from Hana Beppu ryokan around Japan come to Oita to study the art at the 3 Students work on bamboo basket ware at the Beppu Traditional Bamboo Crafts Center local technical college, while local residents partici- 4 A bamboo box created by local artisan Shochikusai Watanabe pate in classes at in the Beppu Traditional Bamboo on display at the Beppu Traditional Bamboo Crafts Center 5 Shunichi Misawa strips lengths of bamboo at the Iwao Chikuran Crafts Center. workshop in Beppu “Some graduates go on to become full-time 6 Ichiro Iwao uses his teeth, fingers and toes to produce thin craftsmen,” says instructor Kenichi Otani. “Bamboo bamboo strips for weaving 7 Satsuki Taniwaki at work on a basket is deeply engrained in the local people’s psyche.”
october 2016 | 29 Series JAPAN HERITAGE
The statue of Amidanyorai in Shorenji Amidado Temple Photo: Satoshi Tanaka Thank the Lords
The cultural legacy of the Sagara clan lives on in Hitoyoshi Kuma, Kumamoto Prefecture.
n the Warring States period from the middle of OSAMU SAWAJI the fifteenth century to the turn of the seven- teenth century the daimyo lords of Japan were engaged in almost constant bloody conflict as theyI sought to protect or expand their territories. Many lost their lives and land in these tumultuous times. Even when peace came down with Japan’s uni- fication in the Edo period (1603–1867), many would lose their titles or have their land confiscated by order of the new Tokugawa shogunate. Few clans survived this turmoil, the Sagara clan of Kyushu. The Sagara clan hailed from the manor of the same name in present-day Shizuoka Prefecture but moved to Hitoyoshi Kuma (now Hitoyoshi City and Kuma-gun) in what is now Kumamoto Prefecture by order of the Kamakura shogunate at the end of the twelfth century. In its new territory, the Sagara Kumamoto Kuma-gun clan made an effort to preserve the culture that had Prefecture Hitoyoshi City existed there since ancient times in order to gain the respect of the people.
30 | highlighting japan Series
1 The two-storied, 12-meter-high Romon gate at Aoi Aso Shrine 2 A family enjoys a game of Unsun Karuta 3 Rafting on the Kuma-gawa river
“Lords tended to reject or destroy the history and culture of their new territories, but the Sagara clan was different,” says Yoshifumi Wada, a member of the Hitoyoshi City Board of Education. “Because the lords and the people protected the culture together, a large 1 number of old shrines and temples still remain in Hitoyoshi Kuma and neighboring Kuma, even today.” Of the nineteen shrine and temple buildings in Kumamoto Prefecture designated as important cul- tural properties, sixteen are located in Hitoyoshi Kuma. The most significant among these buildings is the Aoi Aso Shrine, which was founded in 806. Local people still visit the shrine to worship the god who protects the area, and every October participate in the shrine’s Okunchi Festival, which was first held some 1,200 years ago. Aoi Aso Shrine is notable for its large, high-pitched 2 thatched roof, which is a feature in fact of numer- ous historical buildings in the area. One such is the Shorenji Amidado Temple, which was founded in 1295. The statue of the Amidanyorai held within is designated as a national important cultural property. “The influence of the Sagara clan can be seen not only in the surviving buildings and statues, but also in people’s lifestyles,” says Wada. One example is Kuma shochu, a distilled liquor 3 made of rice which has its origins in the sixteenth century but which began to be drunk more widely is thought that the game only survived until today when the Sagara clan permitted brewing using rice, a because the Sagara clan respected it as a form of pop- precious commodity in the Edo period. A related leg- ular entertainment. acy is a game played using the fists called Kuma-ken, The Kuma-gawa river which runs through Hito which is thought to be the root of the rock-paper- yoshi Kuma had burst its banks repeatedly over the scissors game, which was first played at Kuma shochu centuries. The Sagara clan therefore carried out river drinking parties. improvement and utilization projects and trans- Similarly, Unsun Karuta is a card game that is formed Hitoyoshi into a rice-producing area. The still played only in Hitoyoshi Kuma. It is believed clan also used the river to transport rice and timber. that Unsun Karuta originated from a card game that This tradition of local people using the river survives was introduced to Japan from Portugal in the late today with rafting being a popular tourist attraction. sixteenth century and became popular through- “The Kuma-gawa river is the mother river of out Japan in the Edo period. In the middle of the Hitoyoshi Kuma,” says Wada. “The culture of Hitoy- Edo period, however, the Tokugawa shogunate pro- oshi Kuma has been developed jointly by the Sagara hibited the game due to its gambling elements. It clan, local people and nature.” Photos: Courtesy of Yoshifumi Wada (1); Satoshi Tanaka (2, 3)
october 2016 | 31 SPOT-CHECK Photo: Goto Masami/Aflo One Night in Nagasaki
he natives have a name for it: “Issenmandoru no yake,” the “10 Million Dollar Night View.” The playful and somewhat period sobriquet, with its use of “dollar” rather than “yen,” evokes Timages of Las Vegas or Hollywood or some other impossibly star-spangled, faraway spectacle. There is a nod there too to the illuminations’ cost. When the name was coined, the stunning scene in question was known to be but a five-minute ropeway ride from the bottom of Inasa-yama hill. Those visiting Nagasaki today, perhaps for a night on the town, will know the 10 Million Dollar Night View is just a twenty-minute taxi ride from Nagasaki Station. It is not to be missed for love nor money.
PLEASE VISIT the Government of Japan's official English-language website
DOWNLOAD OUR NEW APP for iOS, Android and Windows Phone! http://www.japan.go.jp/ www.gov-online.go.jp/eng/publicity/book/hlj/app/index.html
The official JapanGov website functions as a portal HIGHLIGHTING JAPAN for users to access a broad range of information from policy-related information to cultural content. ALL PAST ISSUES available online