Chef Rick Bayless: Champion of and Its Cuisine

There’s no mistake: Mexican food is hot—and we’re not talking about the spice level. Once found only in U.S. cities with high populations of Mexican immigrants, the South of the Border cuisine has taken the country by storm, with taco shops and restaurants serving authentic Mexican dishes (not Tex-Mex) popping up in cities large and small. One of Mexican food’s most well-known proponents is Rick Bayless, an -born and -raised chef who is known for his cookbooks, TV shows and restaurants that specialize in traditional Mexican cuisine. His 1987 book Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico catapulted him to fame and changed the way Americans think of Mexican food. Since then, he’s won numerous James Beard Awards, including Best American Chef: Midwest (1991), Cookbook of the Year for Mexico: One Plate at a Time (2001), and Outstanding Restaurant for his flagship Frontera Grill (2007) in . In 2012, he received the Insignia of the Order of the Aztec Eagle, the highest award given to foreigners by Mexico. Until recently, though, the only way Mid-Atlantic residents could sample Bayless’ tasty creations was to take a trip to Chicago, where the chef runs an empire of eight eateries in and around the city. When he decided to break away from the Windy City, he chose to open his first outpost on the East Coast. Tortas Fronteras at 3601 Locust Walk in Philadelphia offers quick-service, healthy, authentic Mexican cuisine, including tortas (sandwiches), molletes (warm open-faced sandwiches), soups, salads, a guacamole bar and more. AAA World recently had the chance to speak with Bayless about this new venture, as well as his love of Mexican food and the country from which it originates.

AAA World: Why did you choose University City AAAW: In addition to your own restaurant, do you in Philadelphia as the location of your first have any other favorites in the Mid-Atlantic that you’d East Coast restaurant? recommend? Chef Rick Bayless: I like being on college campuses; Bayless: Lots! Toki Underground in Washington, D.C. Also we have a Tortas Frontera at Northwestern in D.C., anything by Jose Garces—he’s led the charge for University, too. I think it’s important to have really so long. In Philadelphia, I like Stephen Starr’s restaurants. good food for students when they’re on campus Zahav [by Michael Solomonov] is super delicious. Oh, and because that’s one of the places they develop [Chinatown bar] Hop Sing Laundromat was a blast. And their taste. how could I forget [Solomonov’s] Federal Donuts? Over in Baltimore, I’d really love to try Spike Gjerde’s Woodberry AAAW: How is the Mid-Atlantic region faring Kitchen. as far as offering authentic Mexican cuisine? Bayless: The real cuisine develops when there’s AAAW: When Tortas Frontera opened in Philly, you were a large Mexican population, and that’s not quite spotted throughout the city for most of the week. What happening there. But it’s growing and changing are some of the things you did while in town? like in New York City, where many Mexicans Bayless: Eat! Mostly at the places listed [in previous are settling. question]. along the way

Rick cooking Pibil

AAAW: Why should people visit Mexico? in the past few years. What are your thoughts on Bayless: There are many [reasons], but here’s a big this recent increase in traveling specifically to try a one: generous-spirited Mexican hospitality. The country’s food? Mexican people are some of the friendliest in the Bayless: There’s simply no better way to experience world. Don’t let sensational headlines or pop culture a culture than to eat your way through it. That’s influence your curiosity. Of course, you might say I basically what I’ve been able to do all these years. have a bit of a love affair with the food, too. I also think it’s wonderful when tourist destinations not typically known for great food court these great AAAW: What are some of your favorite Mexico chefs to their hotels and resorts. That seems to have destinations and why? a ripple effect that ends with more people eating Bayless: Well, we just returned from the Yucatán better Mexican food. Peninsula to shoot the 11th season of Mexico: One Plate at a Time. We’ve filmed there before, but this AAAW: What do you say to encourage travelers time around was all about rediscovery of Maya food to move beyond the chains and large tourist and culture, from the underground pit cooking—pibil restaurants and dine in the small local joints and —to grilling on the sandy shores of the beautiful try foods that are unfamiliar to them? beaches. When people think of the Riviera Maya, they Bayless: Explore, explore, explore! For the slightly think of resorts. But get beyond that, and there’s a less adventurous, consult the Internet first. There are beautiful world. expats everywhere offering informal guides to great street food. Those are always a good place to start. AAAW: Are there any other places besides Mexico that you like to visit? Or places that are on your AAAW: What are you up to these days? bucket list? Bayless: I’m still celebrating the publication of my Bayless: I’ve always wanted to travel to Vietnam. latest cookbook, More Mexican Everyday, which Maybe someday soon. highlights simple techniques to maximize flavor for weeknight cooking. And this spring, I’ll be opening AAAW: Thanks to the work of chefs like you who Cruz Blanca, a craft brewery, and Lena, a seafood bring the authentic cuisines of various countries restaurant, in Chicago’s bustling West Loop. to the U.S., food tourism has grown tremendously —Rebecca L. Rhoades