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FROM YOUR OWN CORRESPONDENTS

AN UPDATE FROM ARCHAEOLOGICAL SOCIETY’S AREA REPRESENTATIVES

Any opinions or errors in these articles are those of the authors and must not be assumed to be those of Cornwall Archaeological Society.

OCTOBER 2018

Issue 23 This month:

NINE MAIDENS STONE ROW MORE ABOUT THE MOOR QUENCHWELL LOOKING WELL MEDIEVAL MUSEUM AREA REPRESENTATIVES’ AUTUMN ASSEMBLY

NINE MAIDENS STONE ROW

Steve Northcott has been looking closely at the Nine Maidens stone row between and and has sent this fascinating report: 2

The Nine Maidens (Her no. 26354) are a Bronze Age stone alignment located at grid ref SW937676. The row is approximately 80 metres in length, with stones varying in height from 0.8-2.1 metres and is situated in a field alongside the A39 between St Columb Major and Wadebridge. The stones are irregularly spaced with spacing typically being approximately twelve metres. Alignment is in a north easterly direction which if extended would reach the Fiddler or Magi Stone (grid ref SW939682) as seen in figure 2.

It would be fair to think that the row consists of nine stones but a quick count throws some uncertainty over the exact number as the current number of stones stands at eleven and is thought to have possibly included up to twenty megaliths.

The nine generally accepted stones in the alignment are of a type of local grey slate streaked with white quartz and are apparently

Figure 2 – Google Maps - Nine Maidens alignment

unworked. In plan the stones are roughly rectangular at ground level, apart from that on the south east end which is squarish, and their longer axes are orientated with the alignment. In outline they are pillar-like, most tapering slightly towards the top. The central stone has a marked bulge below its middle, and the sixth from the south east has a jagged top, but this is only 0.6m high and is thought to have been truncated in antiquity. The other stones are 1.04m to 2.05m high (the north east end stone is lying, broken and partly embedded). The south west end stone and broken sixth stone are upright, and the eighth from the south west inclines slightly north west. All the other stones are angled to the south east; the seventh from the south west leans close to the ground, indicating that it is displaced.

The Fiddler Stone, also named the Whitehorse or the Old Man, is to the north of the row. The stone is recumbent, its axis lying south west-north east, but is considered to remain at its original site. It measures approximately 1.5m-1.6m across, having been truncated to a length similar to its original width, and rises around 0.6m above ground level. The stone type is the local grey slate with white quartz, resembling that used for the Nine Maidens. 3

The monument is generally in a good stable condition and is currently used as pasture land. There is some localised animal burrowing and during periods of heavy rainfall there is occasional flooding which pools at the base of several of the stones.

More romantically, the Nine Maidens inspired composer George Lloyd, who wrote part of an opera about one of the stones maidens; Iernin. On waking after hundreds of years, from a Christian curse that changed her and her sisters into stone, Iernin falls in love with Gerent; a nobleman from Castle Bosigran. The two fall in love although Gerent is in fact betrothed to Cunaide, the daughter of Prince Bedwyr. Gerent is dragged away from Iernin and back to his marriage to Cunaide. The two lovers, however, flee to the hills after Gerent openly defies the priest, the crowd and the Court at the wedding. Cunaide implores Gerent to return to her and to reality. Iernin reluctantly then forsakes Gerent and turns back to stone in her place amid the Nine Maidens.

Text and photographs: Steve Northcott

MORE ABOUT THE MOOR

Issue 23 reported Iain Rowe’s concerns about the dumping of stones in the river near South Caradon Mine (see photo below). The good news is that Historic is aware of the situation and is carefully monitoring it.

Mine stone from SSI dumped in affecting SSSI, SAM & river quality & flow – looking east Photo: Iain Rowe 4

Not far away, on Stowe’s Hill, stone-stacking has been disfiguring the ancient hilltop enclosure, as Iain Rowe has been reporting for some time. Dan Bashford, Historic England’s Heritage at Risk Project Officer, is concerned about the problem and is working hard to prevent it. Notices explaining the importance of the site, and the damaging nature of the practice, have been posted at Minions. Additionally, a drone survey has been carried out to plot the exact position of the stones in the Neolithic boundary wall, which will allow for any stones that have been moved by vandals to be replaced in an appropriate position.

Photo: Iain Rowe

While on the subject of Moor, Rosy Hanns is keen to find out more about boundary stones revealed during this summer’s very dry conditions. Here is her report:

Two stones which are normally underwater have been spotted by an eagle-eyed moor walker in East Cornwall.

The first stone is a GLW (Great Lord’s Waste) manor boundary stone on the shores of Colliford Lake. It is shown on the early 6 inch OS map but has been under water since the lake was completed in 1983. I cannot find out much information about the manor of Great Lord’s Waste, if anyone has any, I would love see it please. 5

The second stone is on the shores of Siblyback Lake just to the left of the dam.

It is approximately 90cms in diameter with a visible thickness of approximately 25 cms, it has a 12cm hole in the centre that is at least 18cms deep.

Any ideas what it originally was would be welcome. There are no milestones or signposts marked in that area on the early 6 inch OS map, but there must have been huge excavation works associated with the dam construction in the late 1960s.

Text and photographs: Rosy Hanns

QUENCHWELL LOOKING WELL

It would be a mistake to think that all historic features are under threat or that those responsible do not care, as this report from Sheila James shows:

Back in August I went to check on the Quenchwell (MCO57891) and the associated animal drinking trough (MCO57892) on the parish border between Feock and Kea. They both looked rather neglected. The trough was becoming overgrown with ivy and was hidden by foliage from overhanging branches. The well door post had rotted through and broken off leaving the door just propped against the well house.

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The drinking trough was being hidden by vegetation growth.

I rang the clerk of Kea parish council to report it, and they contacted the landowner concerned, Tregothnan Estate. I am happy to say that the site has now been tidied up, as you can see from the pictures:

Text and photographs: Sheila James 7

MEDIEVAL CARDINHAM

Recently, Cornwall Archaeological Society visited Cardinham to look at some of the interesting medieval features there. The walk was led by Andrew Langdon and Roger Smith. It must be emphasised that the castle has no right of public access but we were able to visit by kind permission from the landowner. The Teason Cross is also on private land but can be seen from the road. Rosy Hanns has sent the following report:

The rain stopped just as Roger and Andrew started their introductory talk on the ancient Parish of Cardinham.

Cardinham has existed for more than 1000 years. The name is Cornish from "Car" or "Caer" which means "enclosure" or "fort," and "dinas" which may also mean "fortress." It is assumed from the name that there has been a castle or fortress there since ancient times.

Our first stop was the two inscribed stones at crossroads. Andrew and Roger had cleared the overgrown hedge and vegetation to give us a good view of the stones. Andrew explained that the C6 or C7 Welltown stone (on the right) has an inscription in both Roman and Hiberno- Saxon lettering. The stone formerly stood at Welltown Farm and was moved to its current site by Old Cornwall Society in 1932.

The Tawna stone (on the left) has a very poorly preserved inscription and has also been split lengthwise which has given rise to dispute about the content of the inscription. The stone formerly stood in Tawna Lane and was being used as a gatepost before being moved to its current position in 1932. Both stones are included in the Schedule (CO152).

We walked down the road to Hole Villa where Andrew and Roger showed us the Treslea Downs Medieval cross. Andrew’s cross book describes it as ‘perhaps the smallest wheel headed cross in the county’ at just 0.53m high. The cross originally stood beside the ancient highway between St Neot and Bodmin. During 8

the early C20 the cross was neglected and overgrown and, in 1932 Liskeard Old Cornwall Society arranged its restoration and re-erection near Hole Villa. The Monument is included in the Schedule (24288).

From Hole Villa we made our way to White Hill, or Cardinham Castle, by kind permission of the landowner. Cardinham motte and bailey castle was the seat of the most powerful barons in Cornwall after the Norman Conquest. There are no known documents regarding the castle. Therefore it is uncertain if it was built in the C11 by Richard Fitz Turold, steward and tenant-in-chief of Robert of Mortain, or by William Fitz Richard, his son, or by Robert De Cardinham, the first of Richard’s descendants to adopt the name ’De Cardinham’.

View across the motte View of partially buried ditch

The castle is situated on the summit of a steep sided ridge overlooking the valley of a tributary to the River . The motte survives as a circular steep sided mound standing up to 4m high and is surrounded by a partially buried outer ditch. The top of the mound has been disturbed through robbing of stone from the keep. The bailey lies to the South East and measures approximately 80m by 60m internally. It is defined by a rampart bank and ditch.

View across the bailey 9

After exploring the castle and having lunch, we moved on to the village of Cardinham.

Andrew explained that the medieval cross beside the entrance of Cardinham Church is a wheel cross head, which was removed from the chancel wall in 1872 and set on a rectangular ‘foot’ or short shaft and was then cemented to an early Christian memorial stone. The memorial stone bears a Latin inscription incised in two parallel lines running down the shaft. The monument is included in the Schedule (28447)

We moved around to the church porch to see our next monument, an elaborately carved and inscribed cross shaft and head that were removed from the east chancel wall of the church in 1872 and re- erected outside the South porch. The cross is decorated with relief-carved knot-work, interlace key pattern, vine scroll and a Manx ring-chain. There is also an inscription on the front of the shaft. The monument is included in the Schedule (28446)

The parish church was dedicated to St Meubredus the Martyr in 1085. However the early medieval inscribed stone and the C10 carved cross indicate a site of pre-Norman origin. It is thought that there was an early church here, but towards the end of the 10

15th century all the previous building was demolished and the very fine present church built in its place. Unlike other ancient churches which have grown and changed over the centuries, only the font, the Easter Sepulchre and various stones remain of the previous building. It is Listed Building (1) 67515.

In the sedilia (the recesses on the south side of the chancel) are some very ancient inscribed stones, with beautifully written Latin fragments.

From the church, we went through the village to Teason Farm where we were shown a rectangular cross base set into the bottom of the hedge that surrounds the orchard. The base has a mortice cut out of it and has ‘JB’ incised on it. Its origins are unknown. (HER 1533)

View from the chamber doorway We moved a little way up the hill to Trezance Farm, to visit a medieval holy well and the site of a medieval chapel.

Trezance was once ‘one of the largest and most important holy wells’ and was reputedly venerated in pagan times. In the early C19 the entire complex is reported to have survived reasonably well, but by the end of that century the chapel had been robbed for building stone and destroyed. The holy well survives as a granite structure built into the slope. The spring rises in the inner most corner and water covers the entire floor. The well is has never been known to run dry. The Monument is included in the Schedule (31826) 11

Heading back in the direction of the cars we saw our last monument for the day, Treslea or Wydeyeat Cross. This wheel-headed cross at Treslea cross is believed to be close to its original position at the junction of three roads and a footpath.

It is almost certainly the ‘Wydeyeat Crosse’, named in the Cardinham glebe terrier of 1613, which marked the eastern extent of the glebe (an area of land within an ecclesiastical parish used to support a parish priest). The monument is included in the Schedule (24255).

The day was packed with monuments, information and enjoyment. The depth of background information shared, not only about the monuments, but also about the Parish of Cardinham, was extensive and set the scene of how the monuments fitted into the medieval landscape. A day to remember, thank you both.

Text and photographs: Rosy Hanns

PADSTOW MUSEUM

Steve Northcott has some exciting news about Padstow Museum’s new home and an update about the Harlyn Bay burials, which feature in one of its exhibits:

Padstow Museum has now relocated from The Padstow Institute to a newly refurbished area of the Town Council. Much volunteer work has been undertaken to get the work completed and the exhibits moved to the new building. As well as each theme now having its own purpose-built area there is also an interactive kiosk and an improved multi-media experience. [See: http://www.padstowmuseum.co.uk/ and https://en- gb.facebook.com/padstowmuseum/ .]

In 1900, during construction work at Harlyn Bay, the cover slabs of a cist were found in the blown sand that covered the site. This led to an extensive period of excavation being 12

undertaken between 1900-1905, which resulted in 130 pre-Roman Iron Age graves being discovered.

Little had been done with regard to isotopic studies of the human remains found. Two skulls, which are currently on loan to Padstow museum from the Royal Cornwall Museum, are currently being studied however by The University of Milwaukee’s archaeology dept. Isotopic analysis will be undertaken on the mandibles of the skulls which will help to determine the age, diet as well as the mobility and provenance of the individual. We are hoping the results will be available later in the New Year.

Text and photographs: Steve Northcott

AREA REPRESENTATIVES’ AUTUMN ASSEMBLY

In all likelihood, people have been travelling from all parts of Cornwall to attend seasonal gatherings for millennia. CAS Area Representatives maintain that tradition every autumn and spring, although readers may be assured that although the atmosphere is always convivial, no arcane rituals are involved. In October, our Convenor, Iain Rowe, supported by CAS President Caroline Dudley, chaired the second of our biannual meetings for 2018. A number of professionals generously gave up part of their weekend to tell us about exciting developments around the county. These included: Chris Coldwell and Emma Allen of Cornwall AONB; Ann Preston-Jones (Historic England); Andrew Richards, Hannah Curnow and Francis Shepherd ( archaeologists).

Chris Coldwell explained the wonderful progress being made by the Cornwall AONB Scheduled Monument Project. This initiative, which has involved volunteers from a wide range of groups, including CAS, aims to ‘increase understanding and awareness of the needs of our scheduled monuments across some of Cornwall’s most outstanding landscapes, working collaboratively with landowners and community based conservation groups’. A grant of £9,700 from the Heritage Lottery Fund has been obtained, volunteers have been trained and now a list of priority sites is being drawn up. The idea is to monitor and carry out works on monuments and features that lie within the AONB, not only to ensure their conservation but to encourage the public to better understand and appreciate Cornwall’s rich archaeological heritage. More information can be found at http://www.cornwall- aonb.gov.uk/blog/ . (Incidentally, all of the Cornwall AONB website is superb and well worth exploring.)

The current practice for CAS Area Reps is to send in reports of sites and monuments to Hannah Curnow and Francis Shepherd at Cornwall Council’s Strategic Historic Environment Service. Most reports are sent by email and some on paper. However, in an exciting venture, work is underway to develop a smartphone app that will not only allow reports and 13

information to be sent in but also allow access to the Historic Environment Record. This is building on work carried out for the Townscape Heritage Scheme. Andrew Richards described how this scheme aimed to provide grants to fund traditional building repairs to 14 buildings in the town; reinstate 10 new shopfronts and signs; and bring about 15 empty or underused buildings back in to use. There would be additional benefits too, including skills-based training. The project had been assisted by HLF funding and involved students from Cornwall College. It was as a result of involving students in surveys of buildings at risk that the idea of an app was conceived. In a separate project, it is hoped to produce another app that will encourage people to visit and understand historic buildings in certain Cornish towns. This builds on the approach used in Discovery Maps (http://cornwallmaps.org/cms/ ).

Laments for the dilapidated state of British town centres feature frequently in the news but schemes like the St Austell Townscape Heritage Scheme offer a way of reviving them, not only by conserving and celebrating their historic features but also by promoting practical skills and creating employment. Like other Cornish towns, St Austell has experienced difficult times in recent years and yet has much to offer for anyone wishing to visit. For example, at the eastern end of the gently curving Fore Street (ignore the garish shop fronts and look at the upper storeys) is one of the most beautiful late medieval church towers you could wish to see.

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St Austell’s Market House (see next photo) is a gem. A.L. Rowse enthused: ‘Opposite the church is the best building in the town, after the church itself – the Market House and Town Hall, built in 1844…The building has as fine an interior as its exterior, with a vaulted granite entrance like the crypt of a Norman cathedral; up a few steps to a noble market-hall, with splendid roof of a complex timber structure’ (Rowse, A L, 1986. The Little Land of Cornwall. Alan Sutton Publishing, Gloucester).

Another spin-off from the St Austell scheme is its excellent Conservation Area Appraisal and Management Plan which, like associated documents covering other aspects of the scheme, is freely available (https://www.cornwall.gov.uk/media/34359505/st-austell-caa-and- mp.pdf ). It gives a succinct and well-illustrated description of the town centre and its history - essential reading for anyone interested in St Austell.

Anyone wanting to learn about the history of any of Cornwall’s larger settlements can indulge themselves by going to these wonderful sites:

Cornwall and Scilly Urban Survey http://www.historic-cornwall.org.uk/csus/towns.htm

Cornwall Industrial Settlements Initiative http://www.historic-cornwall.org.uk/cisi/

Be assured: there is no need to spend tedious hours in soulless retail sheds on the urban fringe when our historic town centres offer not only shops but also a deeper, richer cultural experience.

Area Representatives would love to hear from fellow CAS members, and the general public, about any feature of the historic environment in their parishes, whether a new discovery, something causing concern, or even just to answer queries. If you have any concerns, or new information, about any archaeological feature, please contact the Area Representative for the parish. If you do not know who that is, just look at the inside back cover of the latest journal, Cornish Archaeology 55, or send an email to [email protected] .

Roger Smith, 4th November 2018 15