DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS THE FORTUNATE OF A MUSEUM LIFE NATURALIST: ALFRED M. BAILEY DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS

NUMBER 14, MARCH 20, 2019

WWW.DMNS.ORG/SCIENCE/MUSEUM-PUBLICATIONS Denver Museum of Nature & Science Reports 2001 Colorado Boulevard (Print) ISSN 2374-7730 Denver, CO 80205, U.S.A. Denver Museum of Nature & Science Reports (Online) ISSN 2374-7749

Frank Krell, PhD, Editor and Production VOL. 3 DENVER MUSEUM DENVER OF NATURE & SCIENCE

Cover photo: A.M. Bailey on Field Museum expedition, Abyssinia, 1927. Photographer unknown. DMNS No. IV.BA26-133.

The Denver Museum of Nature & Science Reports (ISSN 2374-7730 [print], ISSN 2374-7749 [online]) is an open- access, non peer-reviewed scientifi c journal publishing papers about DMNS research, collections, or other Museum related topics, generally authored or co-authored The Fortunate Life of a Museum Naturalist: by Museum staff or associates. Peer review will only be arranged on request of the authors. REPORTS Alfred M. Bailey

The journal is available online at science.dmns.org/ • NUMBER 14 MARCH 20, 2019 Volume 3—1922–1927 museum-publications free of charge. Paper copies are exchanged via the DMNS Library exchange program ([email protected]) or are available for purchase from our print-on-demand publisher Lulu (www.lulu.com). Kristine A. Haglund, Elizabeth H. Clancy DMNS owns the copyright of the works published in the & Katherine B. Gully (Eds) Reports, which are published under the Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial license. For commercial use of published material contact the Alfred M. Bailey Library &

Archives at [email protected]. WWW.DMNS.ORG/SCIENCE/MUSEUM-PUBLICATIONS

Wulda, A.M. Bailey, and Allamayu, Field Museum Expedition, Abyssinia, 1926–1927. Photographer unknown. DMNS No. IV.BA26-145. DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS NUMBER 14, MARCH 20, 2019

The Fortunate Life of a Museum Naturalist: Alfred M. Bailey

Volume 3—1922–1927

CONTENTS Edited by Kristine A. Haglund1 Back from Alaska, September 1922 2 Elizabeth H. Clancy1 & The Bahamas, 1923 3 Katherine B. Gully1 Colorado 10 1923 10 1924–1925 12 Summer–Autumn, 1925 14 Utah 18 1924 18 1925 22 Bonaventure Island, Quebec, Gulf of the Saint Lawrence River 24 1924 24 Louisiana, 1925 23 Abyssinia, 1926–1927 31 Off to Chicago and Abyssinia, July 1, 1926– October 17, 1926 31 Collecting at Sandford’s Ranch, October 18, 1926– January 22, 1927 44 Addis Ababa, January 22–February 7, 1927 72 Northern Trek, February 8–May 2, 1927 75 Down the Nile, May 2–18, 1927 106 References 108 1Alfred M. Bailey Libary and Archives Denver Museum of Nature & Science 2001 Colorado Boulevard Denver, Colorado 80205-5798, U.S.A. [email protected] Bailey

Back from Alaska, September 1922 All specimens came through from Alaska in perfect shape, and in the Museum’s 1922 Annual Report, Direc- After my return to Denver from the long expedition tor J.D. Figgins gave a lengthy review of the expedition. In to northern Alaska (June 1921–August 1922) for the a foreword, President Frank M. Taylor reported: Colorado Museum of Natural History, my wife, our small daughter Beth, and I settled in an apartment in This expedition has proved a very great the 1800 block of Gaylord Street, just across City Park success in every way. Mr. Alfred M. Bailey, from the Museum. As Curator of Birds and Mammals, I in charge, and his assistant, Mr. Russell W. was in charge of the preparation of the many specimens Hendee, not only did wonderful work in collected on the Arctic journey, my skilled associates collecting and bringing home specimens, being Robert Niedrach; Fred Brandenburg; George materials, and photographs far exceeding Young; Russell Hendee, working with birds; and the our most sanguine expectations, but they veteran taxidermist Albert Rogers, who mounted all the came back safe and sound without having mammal displays. Our laboratory was on the third floor had hurt or sickness and having made many just off the present Walter C. Mead Ecological Hall (Fig. warm friends and connections valuable for 3.01), where we had a spectacular view—with the usual the Museum and themselves during their clear skies—westward across City Park toward the Front sojourn in the Far North. The report of the Range dominated by 14,000-foot Mount Evans. director outlines their accomplishments,

Figure 3.01. Colorado Museum of Natural History ornithology laboratory, 1909. Photograph by Alexander Wetmore. Courtesy of Smithsonian Institution Archives. DMNS No. IV.0091-1014.

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which will later be published with much The harbor was filled with small schooners and more detail. The grand result has been to put launches, but it was the quiet time of evening when in the possession of your Museum a number there was little activity. No difficulty was experienced of unique exhibits, the like of which can with customs officials, they being very considerate of nowhere else be found. incoming passengers, merely asking as to the contents of the baggage. A tall, dignified black man, resplendent in Preparation of specimens from Alaska during the braid, served as customs officer. next six months kept all hands busy, but many hours A dozen willing blacks grabbed at our three bags were devoted to fieldwork inasmuch as there were so and hustled them to a waiting carriage, and we climbed many available places near the Museum. A gravel road aboard the rickety two-seated buggy. Eight dusky hands, extended eastward through the little town of Aurora, backed by eight pairs of rolling eyes, were extended into and just beyond was the unfenced rolling prairie, where the carriage, and in unison, the men said, “Chief, I’se de cottontails, jackrabbits, and prairie dogs were abundant, one who brought dem bags.” and there were many birds typical of the area. I started We were taken to the Lucerne, a rambling house a notebook with one page devoted to daily records for typical of Nassau, where we were made comfortable. each species of bird observed, marking with stars reports Barking dogs vied with other night sounds, the calls of of particular interest, which I recorded at length in my watchmen, and the rustling of palms. At 9:00 came the journal. The notes cover the next four years, observations clear notes of a bugle, the evening curfew, followed by the made on our occasional summer visits to Colorado from slow measured strokes of the city clock. In the morning, 1928 to 1936 and from 1936 to 1965, after my return to we arranged for a room in a commodious home on a Denver as director of the Museum—the index to data palm-lined boulevard where I felt my wife and our two- for each species thus being readily available when Dr. and-a-half-year-old Beth would be safe during the time I Niedrach and I compiled information for the two-volume would be gathering coral. Birds of Colorado published by the Museum in 1965. Nassau intrigued us. The narrow streets, covered with glistening coral sand, were lined with curious old- The Bahamas, 1923 time buildings with huge padlocked doors and barred and shuttered windows typical of a warm climate. Car- Mr. Figgins had planned to make a trip to the Bahamas riages for hire pulled by decrepit-looking ponies were in the spring of 1923 to secure coral and fish for an along the curbs, the drivers hoping for white customers. underwater group but found he could not get away, and The black people outnumbered the whites by fifteen to so he requested that I spend a few weeks among the one, the most splendid being the officers of the law who islands. Inasmuch as I had been away from my family strolled nonchalantly along the streets in their gaudy for so many months while in Alaska, I decided to take my uniforms, two abreast, one dressed in white and the wife and Beth with me. other in uncomfortably warm-looking serge. Nassau We left New York on the SS Munargo and, after a of nearly 50 and more years ago was a delightful old- smooth voyage, arrived off New Providence Island late in fashioned and picturesque place with coconut and royal the afternoon of April 14. The day had been calm with palms, magnolias, and oleanders—a wintering place a slight overcast. The lighthouse on Avocado Island was deluxe for those who craved island life with its accom- seen at the “Hole in the Wall,” and soon after, we made panying sea sports, bathing and fishing. I never think of out Nassau in the distance. A tender put off with two that tropical little place without recalling the steamboat barges and came alongside. The baggage was loaded, brochures with their wealth of descriptive adjectives, for and as deep shadows began to form along the water- I learned for the first time from one of the pamphlets front, we ran ashore. about “lilting waves.”

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Our visit to the Bahamas coincided with prohibi- Exuma Island to Hog Cay. There was no sail, and the tion times on the mainland, and as a consequence, the launch had not been in use for months, so it was with majority of launch owners were rumrunners busily some misgiving that we started our 400-mile trip among engaged in creating oases along the arid Florida coast the coral islands, skirting along the shores of New Provi- —the only launches available for charter being too dence with its palmetto and palm-fringed beaches. unsafe or small for bootlegging. After some dickering, Finally, we headed into the open ocean across however, I arranged with Joe Saunders for the use of his shallow banks toward Norman Cay—the broadside little launch, carelessly named the Friendship, for ten waves straining Friendship to her limit. All went well dollars a day and find, with a black cook named Mawxy until the rust, accumulated in the tanks through disuse, for an additional two dollars a day. I couldn’t have found began to work into the carburetor—and then Friendship two finer companions. ceased. Fortunately, Captain Joe knew his business, and We worked in the vicinity of Nassau collecting the engine was in commission after a couple hard hours’ corals, sponges, and sea fans in colorful waters and then, work, and we made shelter behind the Cay. The next day on April 20, with barrels of oil hung here and there on we cruised over colorful waters, when the engine could our little craft, started off for the Exuma Cays, a chain be persuaded to run, stopping in sheltered places to dive of islands which extend for 150 or more nautical miles for coral. A few Laughing Gulls and Royal Terns flew low from north of New Providence down southeast past Little over partially submerged sandspits, while Oystercatchers

Figure 3.02. Captain Joe Saunders and natives of Bitter Guana Cay with new species of iguana, Cyclura cychlura figginsi, The Bahamas, April 22, 1923. DMNS No. IV.BA23-026.

4 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 and other waders worked along the shores. During Most of the natives valued the iguanas for food, and the afternoon, we continued on over shallow banks of they told me the animals were easily caught in baited cray- yellowish-green waters and, in midafternoon, chugged fish pots. They said the iguanas were destructive to their slowly into the little harbor of Staniel Cay, just north of crops and were so numerous that it was impossible to farm Bitter Guana Cay, the local fishermen of Staniel sculling portions of Bitter Guana Cay. The little island was only a out in their clumsy-looking crafts bringing a few chick- mile or so from the much larger Guana Cay, and it is of ens and vegetables for sale. interest that the reptiles persisted on this one small island These natives were a friendly lot, and I asked in spite of the efforts of the people to eliminate them. them about seabirds, thinking “guana” probably meant We ran to Black Point village (Fig. 3.04) on Great “guano” and there would be nesting colonies. I then Guana Cay to spend the night, a picturesque little town learned that Bitter Guana Cay was named for iguanas with native boats tugging at anchor in the harbor or and immediately arranged for two of the men to take me pulled up on the shining beaches. As I was skinning the to the little island and help me collect a few specimens. iguanas, a black minister, “Brothah Gibson,” (Fig. 3.05) It was just a short run, the barefooted guides leading came aboard and preached us a sermon—and I kept the the way over needle-like rocks, even the leather-footed grey-whiskered old fellow taking hides off my specimens as fellows walking gingerly until they reached the drifting he talked. In payment, he was to have the meat, while I kept sands (Fig. 3.02). the skins. He departed shortly, carrying away his spoils, but Soon we saw an iguana about three feet in length soon returned offering to sell his share, for his wife said high up in a bush, his head and forelegs silhouetted she would not cook the animals. (The iguanas from Bitter against the sky. He appeared as a dinosaur in miniature, Guana Cay proved new to science. I sent the specimens to and I could almost visualize him, enlarged many times, Dr. Thomas Barbour at Harvard University, who, November tramping over coral rocks. We followed along an open 30, 1923, at my request, named them Cyclura figginsi in sand ridge and occasionally caught glimpses of other honor of Director Figgins in the Proceedings of the New iguanas as they scuttled from our path, and I had no England Zoological Club (Barbour 1923). difficulty in collecting specimens. The vegetation was so At Black Point, we picked up a native pilot, who thick it was next to impossible to secure pictures, so I knew the neighboring islands well, and were on our way tied a piece of dried fish in an open space and, on our early April 22 to the lower end of Farmers Cay, some ten return an hour later, found a large male waiting to be miles. Palms lined the shore and numerous small schoo- photographed (Fig. 3.03). As I maneuvered for an open ners were drawn up on the beach for repairs. White fields shot, a young one, scarcely a foot in length, worked from of sisal were growing around neat-looking coral homes, a clutter of dead vegetation at the foot of a palmetto, the roofs thatched with palmetto. From the little Farmers peering inquisitively as his photo was taken. Cay village, the most picturesque we had seen, we ran 30 miles across shallow water to Duck Cay, doing a little trolling en route, with an occasional barracuda grab- bing our lure. Wherever coral formations were noted, we paused and collected specimens, our deck load becoming a bit unwieldy. A few Wood Pigeons, shorebirds, and a kingfisher were noted on the cay, and with the water glass, we could see colorful fishes among the branching corals and swaying sea fans. Figure 3.03. Iguana, Cyclura cychlura We were on our way early the next day, favored by figginsi, Bitter Guana Cay, The Bahamas, April fine weather, a light east wind, and a smooth sea, so good 22, 1923. DMNS No. IV.BA23-039. time was made across the 40-mile stretch to Flamingo

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Figure 3.04. Black Point village on Great Guana Cay, The Bahamas, April 22, 1923. DMNS No. IV.BA23-012.

Figure 3.05. Brothah Gibson, Black Point, The Bahamas, April 22, 1923. DMNS No. IV.BA23-021.

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Figure 3.06. Man-o'-war (frigatebird) young, Flamingo Cay, The Bahamas, April 23, 1923. DMNS No. IV.0090-1526.

Cay, where I found a dozen pairs of breeding Man-o’- sky to the surface of the ocean, lashing the water into war birds (Fig. 3.06) nesting in low bushes—some on spray as the waterspout traveled slowly with the wind. single eggs and others hovering just-hatched, naked Captain Joe turned our craft to the northeast and gave young. These were the first nesting Man-o’-wars I had the spout as wide a berth as possible, our cook showing seen since my field trip to Laysan and Midway Islands ten considerable concern. He assured me that the only thing years before, so they seemed like old friends. The adults “worser’s a watah trench, Boss. A watah trench’s a big hovered overhead as we inspected their nests and young. hole in the ocean where the wind blow the watah out. After I had taken a few photos, the captain turned back Boats go right in, Boss.” up the coast as the weather was good and I desired, with There were heavy swells across channels between our deck-loaded Friendship, to pass open stretches under the cays, but shortly the wind fell, and ideal crossing such conditions. We anchored off Jamaica Cay for the weather prevailed. Soon there was a slick ca’m, and night, going ashore for an hour or so to note the varied the ocean bed’s corals and sea fans showed as though birdlife in the tropical setting—mockingbirds singing we were crossing them in a glass-bottomed boat. There from the tops of palms, suddenly rising a few feet, and was, however, a disappointing absence of birdlife on then floating down to their perches; ground-doves flying the 70-mile run from Jamaica to Farmers Cay. Friendly before us; and many warblers and other small species natives greeted us, and two days were spent working active in the rather dense growth. As a diversion, all along nearby islets, adding to our collection of marine hands dived for coral, conches, and crayfish. life. My notes for April 27 read: The next morning, April 24, we were underway at daybreak with a rather strong southwest wind that caused We started yesterday from Harvey Cay at our launch to roll. Squall clouds hung low over Man-O- 5:00 a.m., the morning being very calm, War Cay, and as we watched, a long funnel fell from the with a light easterly wind. As we moved over

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the glassy waters, the bottoms were clearly across the palm-lined avenue saw their predicament and revealed, showing the various sea-growths took them into shelter. Twenty-five native houses and upon the white coral sands. Saw two large many domestic animals were destroyed, the fire being sharks alongside the boat. There was no stopped just short of the Hiltons’ home. coral to be seen, the beautiful ledges usually After my return from the short run among the being on the outside of the islands, facing islands of the Exuma chain, which resulted in securing a the open sea. fine collection of corals, other forms of sea life, and a series The day seemed ideal for our journey of large iguanas which proved new to science, two days with our boatload of coral, and we set our were needed to pack the specimens for shipment to Denver. course directly for Nassau and made good A day was spent showing my wife the interesting time until we passed the “Elbow.” At this coastal areas of New Providence from the deck of the place, the wind gradually increased until Friendship, the beautiful coral, and other invertebrates in we had a half-gale blowing, old top-heavy shallow waters. Then, on April 29, my family safely back in Friendship almost floundering in the trough their apartment, we started the last leg of our trip, round- of the rollers. I really thought she would turn ing West End and heading across the 17-mile stretch of the turtle on one or two occasions. It was impos- Tongue of the Ocean southwest to the barrier reef ringing sible to expect the beautiful branch coral to Andros Island—a few Bridled Terns and Audubon’s Shear- come through in good shape. Just the pound- waters low over the water adding enjoyment to the trip. We ing of the boat broke the largest piece. pulled into Staniard Creek toward the northwest end of Andros, a mere tidal stream which, at high water, made an During my five days' absence, my family had island upon which the village stood. The picturesque little numerous rides to interesting coastal areas adjacent to settlement of friendly black folk was set among rustling Nassau with a friendly English couple we had met on coconut palms, the whitewashed coral houses standing the vessel coming down from New York. My wife also conspicuously in the green semitropical setting (Fig. had a harrowing experience that, after the passage of 3.07). Many were of wood, the hand-hewn lumber having more than 50 years, still stands out as a nightmare in been carried from the interior on natives’ heads. One of her memory. About 1:00 in the morning of the third day, the friendly blacks, a huge fellow, offered to show me the she was awakened by shouting and wailing, and there village, and as we neared each home, he would call out was an eerie glow from outside her bedroom window. the name of the owner and say, for example, “Ho, Liza, the Looking out, she saw that the native settlement of wood white genamun has come a pleasur-un.” with palmetto-thatched houses immediately behind our On a hike the next morning, in the semitropical quarters was ablaze, and panic-stricken people were growth adjacent to the village, many Groove-billed Anis trying to salvage their belongings. were noted, their flight so resembling the grackle’s that Muriel tried to arouse the sleeping Beth without too I misidentified them when first seen flying low over the much success, so she stumbled down the stairway car- water. They had a peculiar cry, however, and their antics rying the heavy, bewildered youngster, where the kindly in the bushes seemed strange in that the whole flock English landlady took Beth, and my wife raced upstairs seemed to see how closely it could mass on a given limb. to get her suitcase and my 5x7 Graflex, which I had left There were many warblers, vireos, and flycatchers in in her care. Heavily laden, she returned to the ground migration, the majority in rather high-up, dense growth floor and, with the help of Mrs. Hilton, sat in the middle where I could not identify them. of the street (now thronged with excited people) perched Later, I picked up a guide, an elderly black man on the suitcase with Graflex alongside and holding our named Tucker, and we followed along Siwash Creek, then now-terrified daughter. In half an hour or so, kind people a trail which he called a road, and back through bush to

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Figure 3.07. Sisal growing in front of hut on Andros Island, The Bahamas, April 29, 1923. DMNS No. IV.BA23-025. the “fields,” small cultivated areas where the people raised Commissioner ran to High Cay with us to do a bit of fishing, farm products—cane, pigeon pear, bananas, pineapples, and numerous colorful specimens fell victim to our conch and cassava, oftentimes all being grown on a half-acre bait, an enjoyable experience until a stiff onshore wind patch. The women were doing the cultivating and carried made the shallow waters so turbulent we had to return to the products out on their heads, the tillable areas being the settlement. restricted to great blowholes in the solid coral where At daybreak of May 1, we were on our way to Nassau, soil had accumulated. Often the holes were 20 feet deep but after half an hour of pitching and rolling in the Tongue and the tops of banana trees and fruit were practically of the Ocean, each wave threatening to upset the Friendship, level with the ground. Surrounding the fields were dense we watched our chance and ran back for shelter in Stafford thickets, which the natives called “coppets,” where White- Creek, where the usual Negro settlement straggled along crowned Pigeons assembled, feeding in the fields and the beach. As we slowly worked up the creek, many tarpon among the palms growing at the edge of ponds. Several were noted, and the cook jumped into our trailing skiff and specimens were collected, and on our return along the threw out a lure on a handline. Almost immediately, a large beach, numerous Gull-billed Terns were noted. tarpon took the bait, and Mawxy set the hook, but the huge Towards evening we ran down to Fresh Creek to see fish apparently did not know it was caught. It was going our two white men—the Crown Commissioner, a Mr. Sands, way and was alongside the skiff before becoming frightened. and a priest of the Church of England who had been living When the excited fisherman tightened on the line to pull his among the blacks for 20 years. Both spoke highly of the captive aboard, the huge fellow leaped into the air with a people of their little community. The next morning, the shower of spray, shook off the hook, and was gone.

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That night we tried a crossing, but scarcely clear- Russell Hendee had become a staff member on our ing the barrier reef, we saw it was foolhardy and returned return from the Alaskan expedition, and on weekends, to shelter. Wind and bad weather do not always prevail, whenever possible, we were afield on the eastern plains however, and the following day, after a rough voyage with Bob Niedrach and Fred Brandenburg. In the early across the channel, we tied to the dock at Nassau. spring, we searched for nests of birds of prey along the cot- My family had been enjoying themselves during tonwood- and willow-lined prairie streams, for Mountain my absence, thanks to hospitable people, and we spent Plover upon the dry expanses, and for nesting waterfowl an additional week in visiting numerous caves along at Barr Lake and Mile High Duck Club. We worked the ocean, exploring coral ledges, and taking drives higher into the mountains with the change of season, over the network of highways. My collections packed spring starting in March on the plains and extending and shipped by freight to Denver, we secured accom- to July above timberline, where we found rosy-finches, modation on the Louise F, a little schooner, for a trip to Water Pipits, and White-tailed Ptarmigan. Fieldwork, in Miami, where we arrived after an uncomfortable rolling many areas of Colorado, in the days when gravel roads across the Gulf Stream. extended throughout the state and the rolling prairies While gathering bushes and other typical beach vegetation near Miami to be shipped to the Museum, a friendly black hailed my dark-skinned helper and asked, “Hey, Sam, whatcha doin’?” “Gettin’ bushes to ship to Gawd’s Country,” was the reply, followed by another query, “Whe-ah’s that—Nassau?”

Colorado

1923 Laboratory work in the Museum during the summer of 1923, after my return from the Bahamas, was interspersed a couple of times a week with going afield with W.C. Bradbury, a trustee of the Museum, who, after retirement from his road building business, had renewed his boyhood hobby of collecting birds’ eggs, eventually donating to the Museum one of the finest private collections ever assembled (Fig. 3.08). As a boy, he had gone to the market in Boston when ship- ments of Passenger Pigeons arrived from the West and had purchased females with bare undersides, which indicated nesting birds, in the hope of securing unlaid eggs, and had collected several in this manner. He was the first to show my wife and me some of the high country to Bergen Park, Squaw Pass, and Echo Lake, Figure 3.08. William C. Bradbury acquiring a well above 10,000 feet, where Canada Jays and Clark’s nest, Colorado, 1916. Photographer unknown. Nutcrackers made themselves known as we spread a DMNS No. IV.00-2107A. picnic lunch.

10 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 were unfenced, was a constant delight. Hendee bought a had associated with early Colorado fieldmen. He was an secondhand Dodge, and Bob Niedrach had a Ford, so we avid collector of birds’ eggs and was responsible for fine never lacked for transportation. reports on birds from many areas of the state. My family All museum workers have visitors who remain in and he and his wife, Florence, soon became friends, the memory through the years, and I recall two during 1923. three Rockwell children adopting me as their “Uncle Often, Mr. Figgins, when busy, would refer strangers to staff Bill.” My notes for the first four months of 1924 make members who would dutifully give a tour of the displays constant reference to short trips from Denver with Rock- and a look “behind the scenes.” It was shortly after my well, Niedrach, Brandenburg, and Hendee for the finding return from the Bahamas that a student, an Indian from of nests of Great-horned and Long-eared Owls, Red-tailed Calcutta, visited the Museum and seemed greatly impressed and Ferruginous Hawks, ducks, grebes, and shorebirds at by the displays. He had a little difficulty expressing himself Mile High Duck Club, and the migrations of smaller birds in English, and at the conclusion of our hour together, he along the watercourses of the eastern plains. shook my hand and hesitatingly said, “Thank you very Numerous visits were made to Daniel’s Park, south much.” There was a pause, and then he added, “You know, of town, where often my wife, daughter, and I would run you learn things where you least expect it.” down of an evening to have a picnic dinner and watch That same fall a young ornithologist from suburban the spectacular sunsets behind the Front Range of the Chicago showed up. He was an unusually well-informed man and expressed an interest in the Bradbury egg collec- tion, some of it displayed in shallow showcases bordering the open well of the top floor. He asked questions about eggs we had collected on our Arctic expedition and then mentioned his fieldwork in Michigan and asked, “Do you have eggs of the Kirkland Warbler?” I did not know, but pointing to the section where the vireo and warbler eggs were on display, I said, as I started toward them, “If we do, they will be over here.” I had taken only a couple steps when he responded, “Oh, never mind. I know you haven’t. I’m the only one who has collected a set.” The young man was Nathan Leopold, who, the next year, was the thrill participant in the “Crime of the Century,” as the news headlines read, when he and Richard Loeb shocked the world by kidnapping and murdering a 14-year-old neighbor boy, Bobby Franks. Leopold and Loeb, both from wealthy Chicago families, were given life imprisonment plus 99 years, Loeb being killed in 1936 by a fellow convict and Leopold being paroled in 1958. The latter partly atoned for his crime by serving as a human guinea pig in malaria research, and at his death in August 1971, his eyes and body were given to Puerto Rico’s School of Medicine. Figure 3.09. Robert R. Rockwell at Mile One of our associates was Robert (Bob) Rockwell High Duck Club, Colorado, 1923. DMNS No. (Fig. 3.09), a real estate man in Denver, Colorado, an IV.BA23-097. ardent sportsman, and an enthusiastic naturalist who

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Rockies, dominated by white-crested Mount Evans—just one of the many peaks of Colorado rising more than 14,000 feet above sea level. In those days, there was no competition from others. We had the place to ourselves and always, on the return journey, the view of the lights of Denver below us. Another Museum Trustee was Harry C. James (Fig. 3.10), an ardent sportsman, who later, with his sister Elsie James Lemen, gave the south wing to the Museum in memory of their father, William H. James. On one occasion, he invited me to accompany him to Baca County to collect Lesser Prairie Chicken for a display. We left Denver in a Franklin car December 2, 1923, over gravel roads with unfenced, rolling, unbroken land extending to distant horizons. Waving bluestem grass was waist-high in swales, and Yucca and wormwood grew upon the knolls. Many areas were cultivated and there were extensive fields of wheat stubble or old corn patches where cattle were grazing. We “put up” at the little hotel in Springfield in Baca County and, that evening, talked to some of the Figure 3.10. Harry C. James and his sportsmen of the town, who directed us to a suitable “Tentobed,” Alaska, 1918. Photograph by John hunting area. The next morning, we walked miles over A. McGuire. DMNS No. IV.CHA-40. grass-grown valleys and jumped many of the protectively colored grouse and had no difficulty in securing a fine canyon and mountain country to Steamboat Springs, Grand series—most fortunately—for soon after, extensive Junction, and intermediate points. cultivation and successive seasons of drouth caused the The conductor obligingly stopped the train just west destruction of the grasslands, resulting in the virtual of Hayden at the large and prosperous Cary cattle ranch, extirpation of the species from the state. which was to be my base for fieldwork, and foreman John Cobb gave me the good news that numerous “chickens” 1924–1925 had been seen by his hands. The next morning, February During 1923 and early 1924, Brandenburg, Hendee, 1, he sent a man to show me the lay of the land, and on and I mounted all the Alaskan birds taken on the Arctic horseback, we covered much territory, even though the expedition that were needed for displays and made into snow covering the sage-grown hills was belly deep on our scientific skins the remainder of the large series of the horses. We saw a few male grouse, which flew long before many species of waterbirds. Our laboratory work did not we were in gun range. prevent our usual excursions on weekends to the eastern The next day was equally unproductive in that prairies or into the high hills. It was late in January of the few grouse observed would not allow me to flounder 1925, however, that fieldwork took me away from the near. Whenever birds were sighted, I tied the horse to Museum for several days to the northwestern part of the sage and attempted to wade through the deep snow. The state to Cary Ranch, just west of Hayden in Routt County, birds, which usually were feeding when first noted, would to observe and collect winter Sage Grouse. I left Denver crouch motionless, almost buried in the soft mantle, and the morning of January 31 on the scenic Moffat Railroad, then they invariably flew off to distant parts. I did secure which wound from Denver northwest through beautiful two fine Sharp-tailed Grouse from a flock of 12.

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On February 3, I rode across the ice of the Bear of males. I did not realize there were so many, 30 or River lined with cottonwood and willow, the sagebrush- more, until they started to rise. Shooting from the horse, covered hills rising abruptly on both sides. After covering I dropped four beautiful birds, about all I could tie to many miles of territory through the sage, ten cocks in a the saddle. Snow began to fall heavily, so Baker gave me band were seen in rather heavy cover. Realizing I had no directions for cutting across hills, rather than to retrace chance to stalk them on foot, I decided to try and shoot my steps, and I returned to the Cary Ranch and ended from the horse, fully expecting that the startled animal an interesting week in midwinter in some of the most would dump me overboard. With my pump gun in hand beautiful ranching country in Colorado. and urging the horse along with my heels, we gradually Much of the early spring of 1925 was spent in the drew near. Two of the birds flushed, and gripping the field adjacent to Denver, two or three short jaunts each sides of my steed with my knees, I fired twice, getting week with Mr. Bradbury, trying to collect specimens for both grouse, the old horse never batting an eye. As the the Museum and secure photos of nesting birds. On March others took wing, I was able to get two more. The experi- 8, we worked along the Platte; on the 20th down the Happy ence was an unusual one, and that evening I jotted in Canyon Road searching for owls; on the 24th to the Little- my notes: “Tuesday was wonderful, fleecy clouds, snow- ton area; and to Barr Lake and Box Elder Creek, far out covered sage flats, blue pine ridges in the distance—the on the prairie, on the 27th, where I saw my first Colorado snowfields were glazed with melting snow. In addition to Great Blue Heron colony, and a farmer gave me a piece male Sage Grouse, saw three coyotes, many cottontails, of bone, which proved to be fossil camel. Eastward, along jackrabbits, and magpies.” Horse Creek, a Great Horned Owl’s nest was found, and In the evening, the four ranch hands gathered in on the 28th, Brandenburg and I located another on Con- a commodious room after dinner to discuss the events of nell’s Ranch, one of our favorite areas, 15 miles east of their day, and they told me only a few grouse were about Denver. All field trips were recorded in my journal—some and that the birds were separated according to sexes, the just summarized and others in more detail—data which majority on the ranch being males. The men suggested proved valuable more than 40 years later when compiling I should follow along the Bear River to the valley of the information on the habits of resident and migrant species Elk, just over the Moffat County line. So, after breakfast for our two-volume Birds of Colorado (Bailey & Niedrach the next day, I took their advice, finding the snow very 1965). My notes for March 30 read: deep. I stopped at a ranch to secure information and was invited to lunch, and then the friendly owner, A.D. Baker, Fred, Mr. Bradbury, and I started out at 9:00 offered to show me where he had seen a few birds early a.m. past Barr Lake and on six miles east to that day. We climbed the hills, making a big circle to the Box Elder Creek. Took photos of the old ‘dobe divide between the Elk and Fortification Rivers, where a fort and the ruins of the cow camp with all dozen female Sage Grouse, the first hens I had seen, were the brands carved on the door, and then flushed from a draw. went over to the nest of the Great Horned We were afield until late afternoon, and it being Owl. Found all four eggs hatched, the young evident I would have a long ride back to Cary Ranch, showing the usual variation in size. It was Mr. Baker suggested I return home and stay the night, an awkward place to photograph from as I a kind invitation so typical of the cattlemen of Colorado could not get farther than four feet away. back in the ‘20s. The light was against me, but fortunately, The morning was overcast with a threat of snow. the young looked away from the light and Mr. Baker drove his hayrack, and I followed on my horse into the camera. The depth of focus was so to a long valley, deeply massed with snow, where his men narrow I could only get about half the nest had seen grouse the day before. There was a large flock in. It was an old magpie nest, very small for

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such a large bird as the owl. There was half a excellent place to photo the old one, but as is rabbit in the nest. The old owl sat very close the nature of the beasts, she flushed on the and would not flush until I had started to wrong side of the tree. There were two fresh climb the tree. Both birds hovered anxiously eggs in the nest. It is probable that she suf- about uttering their who-o-o, but they did fered some disaster with her earlier set. not get pugnacious. The wind came up very strong about We then went up to the heronry, and I 3:00 with dust and tumbleweeds drifting took a couple pictures of the heron nests. The across the prairie. Returned at 4:30 p.m. birds are fairly numerous now, although the There were no new birds. majority have not as yet arrived. There were 37 nests in one little clump, and 287 in the Summer-Autumn, 1925. After my return from a main part of the colony. There were at least trip to Utah’s Bear River marshes in late June of 1925, 100 nests farther down toward the reservoir. only occasional short field trips were made, my wife Sparrows (English) were very common and usually accompanying me. We were expecting another undoubtedly nest in the under parts of the addition to our family, so excursions were few. We had heron nests. purchased a home, a five-room bungalow with finished After lunch, we dropped east a couple basement, in the 1600 block of Harrison Street, just a miles, then south five miles, and again hit short walk from the Museum, so mornings, noons, and Box Elder Creek, where Fred and I had found evenings I watched for birds in City Park, and anxiously a nesting owl a few days before. It was in an awaited The Day.

Figure 3.11. Franklin’s Gull, undated photo. Photograph by A.M. Bailey and R.J. Niedrach. DMNS No. IV.BA23-098.

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Figure 3.12. Albert C. Rogers, 1926. Photographer unknown. DMNS No. IV.0098-032-12. Finally, in the wee hours of August 3, Dr. Wagoner although there had been a few sight records. We showed delivered us our Patricia Jean. The next morning I them to Mr. Wilson, the man in charge of the Barr Lake breathlessly called our friends, especially neighbors project, and he said he had seen thousands from Plat- belonging to my wife’s Riddle Sunday School class and teville to Miller Reservoir, where they were feeding in the the Montview Presbyterians. All naturally expressed their fields upon grasshoppers, and that, often, numbers came congratulations, but one rather qualified her enthusi- to Barr Lake in the late afternoon to spend the night. asm. She asked, “A boy or a girl?” To which I responded Two days later, August 31, I returned to Barr with joyfully, “A little girl!” There was a studied pause and Albert Rogers (Fig. 3.12), hoping to collect a few more then the condolence, “Oh, isn’t that too bad.” gulls. At about 3:30, several thousand landed on the lake; With one of the most important events of my life they were restless and kept moving about, often swirling behind me and with work in the laboratory lessening, with wavelike flight. A few flew into range, and we found I resumed making two or three jaunts a week to nearby our specimens literally crammed with grasshoppers, one places, usually with one of my Museum associates. On having 15 in its gullet and 62 in its stomach. Shorebirds one, in late August, Bob Niedrach and I ran out to Barr were still numerous, including a few Marbled Godwits Lake, where we saw fine congregations of shorebirds and Black-bellied Plover, and I noted that the Stilt Sand- along the sandy shores. I was standing on the dam armed pipers waded in deep water and fed with bill held straight with my little .44 collecting gun when a small gull flew down, much in the manner of the Red-backed Sandpip- overhead, which I collected and recognized to be a Frank- ers, many wading within a few feet without taking alarm. lin’s, the species I had photographed in the Bear River All Coloradans like to go into the hills in autumn marshes two months before (Fig. 3.11). We collected a when the high country is ablaze with color, and when couple more, the first specimens to be taken in Colorado, our family physician, Doc Wagoner, suggested I go along

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with him to Monarch Lake to do a bit of fishing, I decided The usual field trips were made throughout I could spare a day or two. We started off at 2:00 a.m., October and in mid-November. Professor H.R. Dill, my September 18 and ran west up the picturesque Mount instructor in Museum Methods back at the University of Vernon Canyon and on to Bergen Park, and even at that Iowa from 1911 to graduation in June 1916, came to early hour there were cars ahead of us, throwing up Denver to spend a week, hoping I would be able to help clouds of dust from the graveled road so that often the him secure a beaver group for his museum. There was steep walls were obliterated in a haze. a nice area along Plum Creek, some ten miles beyond Our car worked well; we made Idaho Springs in two Sedalia, the creek flowing through a broad valley with hours and then wound on over narrow roads through a few pines and the usual thickets of willows. There Dumont to Empire. I noted that Clear Creek had cut a were several beaver colonies, with well-made dams and wonderful canyon with precipitous mountains on either trails, where the beaver had been going ashore to cut side clad in ponderosa pine, spruce, and aspen, and that, their winter supply of food. Stacks of willow limbs had as the government trail climbed up toward Berthoud been piled in deep water near the houses. We set traps in Pass, towering Engelmann spruces were the dominant strategic places on land, with heavy weights that would trees. The pass, at 11,314 feet, was reached at sunrise, keep the animals from surfacing after they had dived and there was a glorious view toward the east, with the into the water, assuring their quick drowning with a sun tinting the massed thunderheads crowning distant minimum of suffering. peaks. We dropped down the other side through West A rather cold spell with snow followed, and Portal (which would be the western terminus of the although two of our traps were sprung, no beaver were Moffat Tunnel when completed) and on through Fraser, caught in the first two days. Owing to ice along the shore, where the road emerged from timber-covered mountains sets were gradually changed until most of the traps were into rolling, sage-grown hills. on the runways over the dams. We could see where the From Granby, the road led 17 miles on to Monarch beaver were swimming through the skim ice, leaving Lake, which was formed by the damming of the Grand well-marked trails. The first beaver was caught the third River. It was walled in on three sides with high mountains, day, and then we had no trouble securing the specimens their windswept crests well above timberline. All the hills needed, and Professor Dill was assured of a fine display were ablaze in their autumn glory, the aspens golden and for his hall of mammals. yellow. There were many little cabins, and winding lanes No mention was made in my field journal of daily led through quaking aspen and spruce-covered hills. laboratory work in the Museum, the preparation of the Our camp was pitched near a fine spring, and we specimens from the Far North, Bonaventure Island, and had an enjoyable time in spite of the fine rain that started elsewhere, but the mounting of birds for two exhibits toward dusk and the strong winds that blew the next day. remains in memory. When my wife and I were on our A rowboat was rented, and between intermittent showers honeymoon en route to New Orleans in 1917, we visited and winds, we had good fishing, trolling with a Columbia a taxidermy shop in St. Louis, where I purchased 17 River spoon, our take being 32 trout averaging about two skins of Passenger Pigeons from the proprietor, Mr. J.K. pounds each. There was a little excitement in that a cow Keller, who had collected the birds in Minnesota in 1882. jumped through our tent, knocking down the grub box, I had expected Director Glenk of the Louisiana State breaking the remaining eggs, and messing up things in Museum to reimburse me for them, but he was short of general. To cause additional trouble, the car battery was funds and was unable to spare the money. Subsequently, dead, but after a couple hours’ effort, the engine was in 1919, when Director Figgins visited me to do fieldwork started, and late the second afternoon, we pulled stakes in Louisiana, he secured the lot, and when I became a for Denver, arriving at 10:00 p.m. after an interesting time member of his staff, after my return from Arctic Alaska in the hills in the most beautiful of all seasons. in 1922, one of the first jobs given me in 1923 was to

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Figure 3.13. Passenger Pigeon group, Standley Wing of the Colorado Museum of Natural History, Denver, Colorado, 1923. Photograph by Colorado Museum of Natural History staff. DMNS No. IV.00-2285B. mount the birds. Some had been split in two so each half during college days. The completed display of Passenger could be used as a wall mount, but all worked out nicely, Pigeons, with the background by artist Love and the fore- and the birds were installed in a square exhibition case ground of colorful sumac and oak installed by Robert J. in the Standley Wing (Fig. 3.13). Niedrach, is undoubtedly one of the finest of that extinct Many years later, after I returned to the Museum bird, the setting chosen for sentimental reasons. in 1936 as Director, construction work necessitated the Another group of special note shows California closing of the windows in the Standley Wing and the Condors in their canyon habitat of Ventura, California. building of large electrically lighted cases with curved In 1924, a collector sent Mr. Figgins four specimens, and domed backgrounds and the reinstallation of all the which had been roughly skinned out but with meat left exhibits. I sent C. Waldo Love—in my estimation, one of in the wings, so the birds were in poor condition. Again, the foremost museum background artists in the world the task fell to me, aided by Robert Niedrach, and the —to Iowa City to make sketches of the Iowa River in the three of the four were mounted and, like the Passenger fall of the year when the hillsides were aglow in their Pigeons, were reinstalled in a new case in the Standley autumn color—the area where my wife and I canoed Wing (Fig. 3.14).

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Figure 3.14. California Condor Group, Standley Wing of the Colorado Museum of Natural History, Denver, Colorado, 1929. Photograph by Colorado Museum of Natural History staff. DMNS No. IV.00-4118.

Utah of work but, on this occasion, was glad for the delay that enabled us to see some places of historical interest. As a 1924 youngster in Iowa, I had been impressed with the story of With the new Standley Wing to fill with exhibits, Mr. Figgins the migration of the Mormons across my state in search was constantly planning displays. He had fieldmen exca- of a home to worship as they pleased. They wintered at vating valuable fossil finds and plans for staff members Council Bluffs in 1846 and then, under the leadership to collect groups in concentration areas of interesting of Brigham Young, continued on, gaining access to Salt species. The Bear River marshes of Utah were well known Lake Valley through the Wasatch Range by a route now for nesting and wintering species of birds, and the islands of Great Salt Lake were breeding areas for White Pelicans and California Gulls (Fig. 3.15). A short trip was planned for mid-May, and there was an exchange of correspondence with Dr. Charles G. Plummer of the University of Utah, an authority on the birds of Utah, who recommended little Hat Island as being an ideal place to work. Bob Niedrach and I ran to Salt Lake on May 17, Dr. Plummer, meanwhile, trying to arrange launch transportation for us. Few crafts were available, but one was reserved for four days later, leaving time on our hands to marvel at the picturesque setting of the nearly mile-high city, backed by the spectacular Wasatch Range Figure 3.15. California Gull Eggs, Hat and the magnificent view of the valley extending west Island, Utah, May 21, 1924. Photograph by and northward to the Great Salt Lake. I have always, as a A.M. Bailey and R.J. Niedrach. DMNS No. museum man, had a one-track mind devoted to my line IV.BA25-020.

18 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 known as Immigration Canyon, at the mouth of which, photograph. A Short-eared Owl flapped low over a stand on July 24, 1847, no doubt, all the covered wagons were of cattails, and we flushed a Marsh Hawk from her nest stopped and the people grouped together (143 men, 3 of three eggs and two newly hatched young. There were women, and 2 children), Brigham Young saying, “This several Long-billed Curlew along a swampy area, a pair Is The Place.” Niedrach and I photographed the simple taking after a Swainson’s Hawk that ventured near, the little memorial shaft which marked the spot. shorebirds with shrill notes quickly chasing the bird of The Mormons found a dry land, but water was prey from the vicinity. Many ibises were in the cattails brought from the mountains, and they literally made the and tules, and apparently, they had not started nesting, desert bloom. They built wide streets and quarried native but in our prowling, we were rewarded by flushing a rock from nearby glacier-marked Little Cottonwood Blue-winged Teal from her well-camouflaged nest and Canyon to build the giant Mormon Temple and Capitol sending an old Mallard hen flapping across the lake, Building. In the ensuing years, the people were “fruitful” followed by her brood of small young. A Long-billed and spread throughout the region, the hardy pioneers Marsh Wren’s nest, fastened to several tules and with the being responsible for creating self-reliant communities entrance a small hole on the side, contained two eggs, Dr. that make up the present great state, their motto always Plummer noting how, often, several false structures were being to help one another. built beside the one used. We became acquainted with Harry Aldonis, an White Pelicans were numerous on a wide lagoon enthusiastic naturalist particularly interested in birds, where a line of them, with beaks in the water, slowly who offered to take us to a stretch of unirrigated country, worked toward shore, scooping up fish in the shallows. and he stopped briefly en route at the former home of As I watched the magnificent white birds, I thought back Brigham Young and filled us in on historical events. to when, as a boy in Iowa City, I had my first view of Aldonis wanted to show us a Short-eared Owl’s nest on the species—three dead ones that a “brave” hunter had the ground, scantily protected by surrounding growth killed along the river. He was so proud of his trophies that not more than two feet high. The brooding bird sat close, he had dragged them to the office of the Press-Citizen, not flushing until we were within five feet. There were where he bashfully posed for his photo with the birds eight small young and a pipped egg, the immatures draped about him, while admiring onlookers gathered varying greatly in size from newly hatched to birds with nearby to watch the performance. pinfeathers. The male was some distance away, and he Years later, I became acquainted with the great- showed concern by swooping at us, always swerving off winged birds along the glistening shell keys of the beyond arm’s reach. Louisiana Gulf Coast. The first occasion was one of the The following morning we hired a car, picked up Dr. fall days so characteristic of the region, the air so quiet Plummer, and headed west across the Jordan River to the that not a ripple marred the surface of the water. The little great alkali marsh country, turning off the Saltair resort bar was so low in the Gulf it would have been invisible road to a nearby gun club. From the top of one of the but for the whiteness of the sand and of the congregated buildings, we had a fine view of the marshes bordering the flock of birds resting quietly. As they were mirrored in great lake, with Glossy Ibises, Snowy and Night Herons, the shallows, it seemed there were two bands of pelicans and White Pelicans conspicuous along the waterways. —one upside down and the other standing upright on a On this trip into Utah marshes, the first of many I shining base. We ran our motorboat toward them until was to have in ensuing years, I was fascinated with the grounded and then took a pirogue so we could paddle abundance and tameness of the many species. The wind nearer. When within 75 feet, the solemn creatures came was from the south, the sky partially overcast—and to life, one by one flapping away so close to the water that mosquitoes were attentive. Ours was merely a look-see, each was mirrored in it, their white breasts reflecting the a short excursion without our taking time to try to blue from below.

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As a result of my experiences with the White Pied-billed Grebes. A Golden Eagle flew from Stansbury Pelicans of Louisiana, I looked forward to the journey to way and on toward the distant shore. Then California their nesting place, Hat Island. While waiting for the craft and Ring-billed Gulls began following the launch—and to take us there, Niedrach and I, with local naturalists, from our right, low over the water and ahead of us, were visited other nearby areas. Then, early in the morning small bands of pelicans heading toward Hat Island. Long on May 21, we drove to Saltair, where Dan Baines, in his before we were close enough to distinguish individuals, 30-foot launch, awaited us. We could not have chosen a we could see white patches that indicated masses of finer day for the 40-mile run to Hat; the sky was overcast, pelicans among the greasewood, and as we neared, flocks but the blue-grey waters seemed brilliant. There was rose from the island and were joined by screaming gulls scarcely a ripple, so good time was made as we headed as they drifted over the lake. northwest, skirting Antelope Island for some distance, The island proved to be a naturalist’s paradise, with and then out toward Stansbury, another rather precipi- thousands of California Gulls (Fig. 3.16) nesting every- tous sterile island. Mr. Baines mentioned that on Antelope where—not in separate colonies—from the boulder- and were 500 bison and 1,600 head of stock and that, owing driftwood-strewn eastern shoreline, over the summit, and to the drouth, the island was overgrazed, and the cattle down the western slope to a long, sandy beach where were being removed to prevent loss, and that it had been they were especially numerous. As the gulls rose from the recommended 300 of the bison should be killed. fringing grass and circled in the bright light, they made a Few birds were noted en route—an occasional picture to delight any naturalist or photographer. There band of Wilson’s Phalarope and a few Eared and were two, three, and four eggs in the nests of dried grass,

Figure 3.16. California Gulls, Hat Island, Utah, May 21, 1924. Photograph by A.M. Bailey and R.J. Niedrach. DMNS No. IV.0098-788.

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Figure 3.17. White Pelicans, Hat Island, Utah, May 21, 1924. DMNS No. IV.0099-295. sticks, and feathers, or nests without linings in pits in the of the Bear River marshes. I noted they did not go to their sand. Incubation was well along, for many very small large young but, instead, made them come home to be young were seen. fed, the downy fellows literally mobbing the old ones. The Our main interest was with the pelicans, which young were fed by regurgitation, thrusting their beaks were in large colonies (Fig. 3.17). Although many had and, often, their heads down the throats of the parents in sailed out onto the lake on our arrival, individual birds their eagerness for food. were tame and remained on their nests even after we had Niedrach and I spent an hour in the blind and then approached within 25 feet, their beaks with the yellow explored the island, locating a dozen nests of Great Blue pouches extended toward us. Niedrach and I hurriedly Herons four or five feet off the ground, the bulky structures erected a burlap blind near a nest with two naked, tan-col- of drift being lined with small branches of greasewood. All ored young, and beyond were many white, down-covered contained small, fuzzy young, except one with three blue immatures that had grouped together on our arrival. eggs. Many old heron nests were occupied by gulls. Hidden in our place of concealment and seated We left Hat late in the afternoon, and as we sat on small boxes, we put our 35mm motion camera on its in the stern of the launch and watched the little island tripod with lens aimed at the nearest nest (it was my first disappear in the distance, we observed bands of gulls attempt at exposing motion film), and we awaited the and pelicans, the latter in long lines low over the water return of the parents. As the heat of the sun was intense, as they were returning homeward, heavily loaded with the parents seemed in a hurry to shelter their naked food from the freshwater marshes. It was a quiet time young, so it was not long before there was a whoofing of of evening; the muffled sound of the engine, the lap wings as the old ones lowered themselves to their nests. of water gurgling off the bow, the calls of gulls that There were no fish in the Great Salt Lake, so some of the appeared dark against the western sky, all combined to newcomers had just returned from the freshwater lakes close a perfect day.

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1925 we saw California Gulls, White Pelicans, Local fieldwork near Denver was continued through April Redwings, Yellow-headed Blackbirds, Marsh and May of 1925, and on June 3, Director Figgins and I Wrens, etc. left Denver by train for the Bear River marshes of Utah, June 7: This a.m. we took the portable arriving the next afternoon at the little town of Brigham, motor and worked down Bear River to South beautifully situated with a background of snow-crested Lake, a broad bay, very shallow, and a mountains. Each little valley had its streams, and the Bear mighty fine place for birds. There were rafts River threaded its way through the vast marsh country to of Pintail, Mallards, Gadwall, etc., and an the west, flowing into the Great Salt Lake. Arrangements especially large number of Ring-billed and had been made for us to stay at the Bear River Duck Club, California Gulls. As we dropped down the and excerpts from my notes for the next two days indicate river, we saw Cinnamon Teal, paired birds the wealth of nesting birds in the area. continually flushing in front of us, and there were many Red-heads, a few Blue-winged June 6: After dinner, we put an Evinrude and Green-winged Teal. The Ruddys were on one of the skiffs and ran up the canal usually in small streams near the lake. We to see what birds we could find. They were found some excellent colonies of White-faced exceedingly abundant: stilts, avocet, Killdeer, Ibis in tules, marsh-grass, and in cane, the Long-billed Curlew, and Willet. White-faced young varying in size from just hatching to Ibis were by hundreds, and we found their blackish fellows ready to leave the nest. They colonies in the cane; they were nesting near were peculiar looking, with a pinkish flesh the surface of the water, many of their nests spot on top of their heads. In one colony were with from two to five eggs [Fig. 3.18]. One ibis, Snowy Egrets, Great Blue and Night surprise was to find a large number of Frank- Herons, all with young. Night Herons had lin Gulls. Saw many Snowy Egrets—nesting downy young just hatched to birds already with the ibis evidently, although we did not leaving the nest. The Snowy Egrets young find their eggs. In addition to the above, were all very small. In the afternoon, we ran up the canal north of the gun club and put up the blind for ibis photos in a colony containing just fresh eggs. The adults returned to their nests within one half-hour, but the movie machine did not work well. Ibis were nesting all over the marsh, hundreds of them, many nests containing downy young. We located nesting sites of the Franklin Gulls in marsh grass, the water knee-deep, but they had built up their nests eight inches to a foot above the water and deposited their three eggs. There were many downy young, which took to the water immediately they heard us approach- Figure 3.18. White-faced Ibis, Bear River ing. There seemed to be two color phases, a Marshes, Utah, June 6–13, 1925. DMNS No. dark brown and a whitish phase. The eggs IV.0090-1328. were varied in size, shape, and color. The

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birds hovered overhead, as do Laughing Nearby was another nest, and I noted that, in Gulls—a beautiful sight against the cloud- feeding, the old bird erected her back and head plumes, filled sky and the snow-covered mountains a beautiful sight, as she slowly bent her neck, the in the distance. youngsters putting their beaks into the parent’s mouth June 8: Avocets and stilts were abun- to receive the regurgitated food. They were eager to be dant, but I could not find any young birds. fed and continually begged for more. Occasionally, the The old ones were very demonstrative, both old one would pick at her nest, rearranging sticks here species calling loudly and circling about. and there. When another egret approached too closely, The avocets particularly try to lead one away, the owner of the nest grew indignant and, with crest and going through all sorts of antics; they bend dorsal plumes erected, darted after the intruder. Nearby over and walk cautiously away, evidently was a Ruddy Duck nest at the base of cattails, so close to with the sole purpose of decoying one to the blind that the old one would not return, and I was pursue them. I found three avocet nests, two intrigued to see a Tule Wren making continuous trips to with four eggs and one with five, all evidently steal feathers that partially concealed the large eggs. about ready to hatch. The high water has Our last day in the marshes was June 13, and I set drowned out hundreds of duck nests. I found my blind in an ibis colony with three nests of large young at least 15 nests of Cinnamon Teal that were in good camera range. Adults nearby were catching small, flooded. There seemed to be eggs everywhere. grub-like animals very numerous in the canals, and on Skeeters very bad on the flooded flat. one occasion, I was surprised to see an old bird feed the I ran up the canal to photo the ibis and set up the 5x7, but the birds would not come to the nest readily. I believe they could see movement through the blind. I took four exposures of ibis on the nest with the 5x7 and a couple with the hand camera of birds on reeds. The birds circle about and then drop into the water—then wade up to the nest. Usually, they give a jump and land on the nest with wings upraised, a position that they hold for a short time, a rather pleasing and artistic pose. The birds were continu- ally grumbling and scolding, sounding not unlike a bunch of rails.

During the next five days, we were in the field continually, photographing many of the nesting species. The Snowy Egrets impressed me, for I had not been in a nesting colony since my days on Avery Island in Louisiana years before (Fig. 3.19). I put up a blind in the cane in front of a nest with small young, and Figure 3.19. Snowy Egret with chicks, Bear it was not long before the parent returned and started River Marshes, Utah, June 11, 1925. DMNS No. to brood, spreading her belly feathers as she carefully IV.0090-1323. lowered.

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young of all three broods without going out of my sight. Mr. Figgins (J.D. to all his associates) and I packed and Apparently, the wheezy cries of the young stimulated made the trip back to Brigham in a covered wagon, the the instinct to feed, an interesting performance by end of the first of many visits I was to make to the Bear regurgitation, like the pelicans, the youngsters literally River marshes in years to come. mobbing the parent with flapping downy wings as they kept their heads bobbing back and forth, all the time keeping up rasping cries. Bonaventure Island, Québec, Gulf of My final photographic effort was to take pictures the Saint Lawrence River of Black Terns (Fig. 3.20), as I had never had the oppor- tunity before, although I had photographed ten other 1924 species—Royal, Sandwich, Caspian, Least, and Forster’s Permits were secured in June of 1924 from the Canadian in Louisiana; and White, Sooty, Grey-backed, and Noddy Government for the Denver museum to collect specimens on little Laysan Island and in the Arctic in front of Taku of gannets and other seabirds for a large exhibit portray- Glacier in Alaska. There were numerous floating nests ing the precipitous ledges of Bonaventure Island off the in open spaces between the tules and cattails, and the clouded and storm-whipped coast of Gaspé Peninsula in blind was erected near one containing four eggs. The sky the Gulf of the Saint Lawrence River. became lead colored, so the light was poor, but in the I traveled to the city of Québec, crossed the river, ground glass of my 5x7 camera, the owners of the nest, and took the night Canadian Pacific toward the little with white underwings, showed in good contrast against town of Matapédia. The porter was new to the job, and the water. Both adults, one at a time, came to the nest, bunks were not made up until 10:00, so as the arrival but they were suspicious and nervous—returning time time of my destination was 3:00 a.m., I cautioned the and time again, alighting upon their little platforms, and friendly man to call me at least half an hour early. I remaining poised with wings uplifted for a few moments was dead to the world in a few minutes but awakened, as they eyed the protruding lens, ready for instant flight. seemingly, in a short time. The train was standing still. I I took many shots, the Black Tern springing from the turned on the light and looked at my watch; it was 3:00. nest with each click of the camera. Wondering whether or not we were late, I put on slippers The light gradually failed, and by the time I and went to the smoking room, finding the porter sound returned to the gun club, there was a pouring rain. asleep. I quickly roused him and asked, “Where are we?” He hustled to the platform, opened the door, and then announced, “Boss, we’s here.” There was no time to dress. I grabbed my clothes, cameras, and suitcase and stepped off into the darkness, just as the train started to pull away. The little station was 100 yards up toward the engine, but a friendly attendant came down the track and pointed out the hotel with porch lights to guide me. At 10:00 the next morning, I caught the train that wound northward along the coast of picturesque French Canada to the little town of Percé, where Willie Duval, the warden on Bonaventure, met me. We walked the few blocks to the waterfront to his launch and soon were chugging toward Bonaventure Island, only four miles Figure 3.20. Black Tern, Bear River Marshes, away. From the dock, we climbed the cliff to the home of Utah, June 13, 1925. DMNS No. IV.0090-1495. Mr. and Mrs. Paget, where arrangements had been made

24 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 for me to stay, their two-story home overlooking the little kelp with occasional sticks and feathers and strips of harbor. I learned the island once supported a prosperous birch bark, all heavy and soggy from water constantly fishing village with numerous French-speaking people dripping off the cliffs above. from the Channel Islands but that the fisherfolk had been Gannets lay but a single egg, and the young were just having hard times, and the population had dwindled. making an appearance—naked, dark-blue, helpless little Duval took me on an early morning motor trip on fellows resembling newly hatched brown pelicans. After a July 1 along the seaward cliffs, their faces being broken few days a down appears, and soon they are clothed in a with ledges where gannets, murres, and Razor-billed woolly, white coat, their black faces presenting an incon- Auks were nesting in numbers. Returning to the little gruous appearance in contrast (Fig. 3.21). The gannets harbor, we crossed the island with half a dozen boys to were constantly circling along the cliffs, and out over the lend a hand, and while they helped snub a line around ocean, many were diving like so many white arrows. a tree, we lowered ourselves to the first nesting ledge. Although gannets were the most conspicuous The gannets occupied all open spaces, each nesting birds of the ledges, there were several other species. bird owning as much territory as it could defend with Deep crevices extended back into the reddish rock where its beak. From our vantage point, I made photographs hundreds of murres quarreled among themselves, one of the series of ledges, some narrow and others wide of each pair straddling a large egg or brooding a dark enough to hold many nests—rather bulky affairs of young. As I worked along, many of the murres dived off

Figure 3.21. Gannets, Bonaventure Island, Labrador, July 2, 1924. DMNS No. IV.BA24-163.

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the ledges and sailed away, while others within a few ice-worn islands of northern seas. They are the well- feet continued to incubate, protesting my arrival with known “frost gulls” of the New England coast, so named throaty, guttural sounds. because they remain north until late in the season, There were many Common Puffins, white-breasted, appearing to coincide with the arrival of cold weather in compactly built birds with large colorful beaks (Fig. that region. During the few days spent on Bonaventure, I 3.22). In flight, they reminded me of giant bumblebees. became acquainted with many friendly French-speaking They too had young. Often, droll adults were noted people, who were greatly interested in our plans to install dangling several small, shiny fishes, and I wondered how an exhibit in the Museum’s Standley Memorial Wing that they held the first captive while securing the next. would portray the seaward ledges of their island. Without Herring Gulls nested along protected grassy slopes exception, everyone tried to help me in my work, and Mrs. and on great boulders at the base of the cliffs, but the Paget introduced me to a luxury new to my experience— most interesting to me were the colonies of the gentle, codfish tongues for breakfast with homemade bread and dove-like Black-legged Kittiwakes. The little gulls, a strong French coffee. dozen or more pairs, were nesting in communities on the The days at Bonaventure passed all too quickly. face of the steep walls where they plastered their grass The needed specimens were collected and packed for nests in places difficult to photograph. One small group shipment. The weather of that stormy area cooperated, of nests, however, was clustered near some large boul- and photographs were secured as studies for the paint- ders, and from the summit of these, I was able to secure ing of the large background and the construction of the a few shots of individuals and of pairs breast-to-breast rock cliff, upon which would reside the various species as one incubated. Kittiwakes are hardy creatures, for of interesting seabirds with their eggs or young. It was the greater part of the species nest along inhospitable, with regret that I said “so long” to my new friends, and I expressed the hope that someday I could return—a wish that was fulfilled years later.

Louisiana, 1925

Work of preparing exhibits for the new Standley Wing of the Denver museum was progressing nicely, and Mr. Figgins decided he would like a southern swamp display showing cypresses with picturesque Spanish moss as the ecological setting (Fig. 3.23). Memory took me back to days at Avery Island, Louisiana (1916–1919), especially the bear hunt with E.A. McIlhenny in the great swamp surrounding the highland in the fall of 1918 when Mr. Mac pointed out a male Ivory-billed Woodpecker on a cypress snag, the only one I have ever seen. He also told me he had seen Caro- lina Paroquets near his home. Figgins was familiar with the country, due to his fieldwork with me in the summer of 1919, and he readily agreed that the swamp adjacent Figure 3.22. Common or Atlantic Puffins, to Avery Island would be ideal for a fine display showing Bonaventure Island, Labrador, probably July 1, Ivory-billed Woodpeckers, Carolina Paroquets, and possibly, 1924. DMNS No. IV.BA24-164. the small white-tailed marsh deer so common in the area.

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Figure 3.23. Louisiana Marsh Deer group, Colorado Museum of Natural History, Denver, Colorado, completed 1927. Photograph by Albert C. Rogers. DMNS No. IV.00-3202B. Consequently, in late November, I traveled to New were having poor luck, one of the hunters bringing in Orleans and had a reunion with old friends, especially Dr. only four birds. When I asked how come there was poor Robert Glenk, director of the Louisiana State Museum, hunting in such an ideal place, he shrugged his shoul- who had given me my first job back in 1916 as curator ders saying, “The gentleman shot 200 shells.” of birds and mammals, and with ornithologist Stanley Some time was spent with Mr. John Avery at the Clisby Arthur, with whom I had so many days afield great salt mine, the island (really a high, wooded area during my three years there. I learned from Arthur of surrounded by swamp and marshlands) having been the tragic death of one of my favorite field companions, named for his family. He said that an attempt to find oil game warden Archie Diebold, who became stuck in the had been made near the mine, and the hole had been mud at low tide along a tidal stream and was submerged drilled through 2,000 feet of salt deposit. with the rising Gulf waters. Mr. McIlhenny returned the following day with I took the train from New Iberia and spent Thanks- his sportsmen friends, and he readily agreed to help me giving Day, November 26, at Avery Island, Mr. Mac being secure specimens of the small marsh deer, saying his down at his hunting lodge in the extensive marshes warden, Omar Broussard, would arrange a hunt. With north of Chenier au Tigre. One of the guides returned Nathan Foreman, one of my helpers of earlier days, we in midafternoon and reported the sportsmen guests drove his buckboard and mule to Omar’s home at the

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edge of the swamp east of the island. I remembered forest to some favorite spot along a game trail. Shotguns Broussard as a likable chap whom I met on the bear only were used to eliminate the chance of a far-reaching hunt, and he and his wife greeted me as an old friend rifle bullet striking a hunter instead of game. The site and invited me to stay with them. They had a four-room was in the southeastern corner of the great swamp that home with eight children and one on the way, and he surrounded Avery Island, where the cypress forests gave remarked, “You are now with poor people.” I replied that way to the marshes extending southward for many miles if they were healthy, they were better off than many mil- to the Gulf of Mexico. lionaires. He said they had lived all their lives within two I took a stand along a bayou bank. Game trails were and a half miles of their place, a period of 41 years, and everywhere, and Omar started the dogs on the opposite had never been farther away than New Iberia. side of the sluggish stream. Immediately, they were in Deer hunting in the swamps was by driving with full cry and were soon out of hearing. It was a beautiful dogs, a dozen or more men taking stations along game day, and Mr. Ned took part in the hunt to help secure trails and waiting for deer running before the dogs, the the specimens desired for the display, but when nightfall palmettos and marsh growth in the cypress swamps being rolled around, two females only had been bagged. Unfor- so dense that hunting without dogs would be unproduc- tunately, the hounds did not distinguish between sexes, tive. Broussard sent notes to all families living near and only females appeared in front of the hunters. that we would have a grand hunt the next day, Sunday, I stayed on a log for seven hours where there November 29, and as a result, 40 men assembled early was a fair view of the surrounding area, and although, with 20 dogs, each man sloshing through the cypress occasionally, the baying of the hounds could be heard, no

Figure 3.24. Marsh deer buck, Avery Island, Louisiana, December 1925. DMNS No. IV.BA25-097.

28 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 game appeared. It was hot, and mosquitoes were numer- brown and fired, and at the report, a beautiful buck sprang ous. To pass the time away, I watched birds. A big Wood into the open. I shot again, both shots taking effect. He ran Ibis sat with drooping wings in a tall cypress, occasionally a short distance, and I had my buck, a fine eight-pointer rousing from his reverie to stretch his neck and extend with symmetrical antlers. It weighed 110 pounds, about as his wings, and a pair of Bald Eagles called as they flew large as the marsh deer get, according to Broussard. In my low over the bayou, their reflections mirrored in the placid notes, I mentioned that Omar had said the marsh deer were waters. Cardinals, mockingbirds, Song Sparrows, and much smaller than the Louisiana deer of high country, and Brown Thrashers were common, while woodpeckers were I recorded that the buck I had just collected “probably will busy back in the cypresses. I heard what I thought was be the type specimen of the Louisiana marsh deer, as I think a bird faintly rustling in the dry vegetation behind me, there can be no doubt that it is an undescribed form of and twisting my head, I saw a small spike buck staring at the white-tailed deer.” (This proved to be true; the race of me (Fig. 3.24). When I cautiously tried to turn, he gave a small marsh deer was named for Mr. McIlhenny, my buck bound and was out of sight, making scarcely a sound. being the type specimen, DMNH No. 2340, see Journal of At dusk, the hunters came from their stands, two Mammalogy 1928, Vol. 9, page 57 (Miller 1928).) females and two small bucks having been taken from so The next several days were spent unsuccessfully far away I had not heard a shot fired. The skins and skulls trying to secure a couple more deer. I packed my salted were given to me for specimens, and all I needed was a skins and shipped them to the Museum December 7. Mr. buck to complete the display group. Unfortunately, the McIlhenny arranged transportation to Chenier au Tigre other hunters could not go out except on Sunday. on the Gulf Coast via his hunting club, giving me a letter After the several days of wading from knee- to waist- of introduction to Mr. Paul, manager of the club, which deep in the rather cool waters of late fall in Louisiana asked him to assist me in securing any wildfowl speci- marshes, the novelty of deer hunting had lost its appeal. mens I desired. I arrived after dark and, the next day, The dogs were tired, and we felt no better, but Broussard recorded in my notebook: assured me he had often gone out with one dog and had had a successful hunt, so I hoped for the best. December 8: A steady rain was falling this On December 2, Broussard and I and one of his morning, so we did not leave the hunting helpers, with only two dogs, headed into the swamp. We camp until almost daybreak, and then we had not gone far when we ran onto an old Negro cutting took one of the fast club launches to the “East wood, and he agreed to join us. Our new companion knew Chenier Lakes.” There was quite a flight of the the country well, and he pointed out numerous fresh tracks “mixed duck” with gray duck (Gadwall) and as we plowed through the sticky mud to our stations. I took scaup predominating, although mallards, a stand at the first “deer road” we came to, and the others both Teal and Spoonbill, also were numerous. continued on. Omar started the two dogs on a buck’s trail I was especially pleased to see an on the opposite side of a little bayou, a beautiful little immense flock of at least 500 of the so-called stream lined with palmettos and other swamp vegetation, “Mexican Squealers” or the Fulvous Tree and soon the dogs were in full cry. The deer led them out of Ducks. They have a peculiar whistling note hearing in the open marsh toward Avery Island, and then in flight that makes their identification easy. half an hour later, I heard the hounds returning, their In flight, they appear very black and move excited baying carrying clearly. in compact flocks, looking like ibis. Even As they drew near, I stood up and caught a flash of the individuals resemble ibis in flight, with white through the palmettos as the deer trotted past. In a their legs dangling. They move in a leisurely few moments, he turned directly toward me and stopped manner, oftentimes in second lines, each just behind a fringe of vegetation. I could see a patch of bird uttering its querulous whistling note.

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We left the blind and stalked the Gulf. We flushed several large rails and one birds, but the cover was not good, and they small fellow, which looked suspiciously like took flight. They are not wild, however, and a Black Rail. A Great Horned Owl sailed off returned again and again. Secured 13 speci- the mesquite-grown ridge toward the Chenier. mens and a Mottled Duck. Several other tree As the sun rose above the oaks, Tavor looked ducks were shot by the other hunters. Most of at the sky, and evidently satisfied with the the specimens were remarkably fat. They had weather outlook, remarked, “Très bien.” “Ah been feeding on small grass seeds. We tried a regah,” I replied in my best and only Eskimo, few skinned birds for supper and found them and again we plodded on, our horses throwing good. Several American Egrets were cruis- water high as they tramped northwest across ing around, and the ducks were abundant, the “pasture” toward the goose grounds. The although only one man secured a whole bag. forage was good in the pasture, but there were The Blue Geese were moving in great no great stands of grass so characteristic seven numbers from pasture to the Audubon and eight years ago when I hunted here. We Society’s reserve where they settled in a huge flushed a couple small flocks of geese, but clamorous flock. They traveled high, so very they did not circle anywhere near. We reached few were secured by hunters. a ridge (almost above water!) northwest of the Chenier, and there, in the tall weeds, I All the birds collected were saved for the systematic found small birds, especially several species of collection of the Museum, and late in the afternoon, Mr. sparrow and meadowlarks, abundant. Paul took me to the landing at Chenier au Tigre. I left Seeing there were no geese, we gave up my duffel at the wharf to be picked up later and then the prospects and turned back toward home, followed the trail through the palmettos and under the intending to hunt on Simms Sagrera’s land magnificent moss-hung live oaks bordering the gulf to since, according to Bruce Broussard, McIl- my friends, the Simms Sagreras, where I had stayed so henny’s game warden, they hang out there in often years before. Simms was at his trapping camp, but great bands, literally digging ponds as they Mrs. Simms (Zoe) welcomed me, a most heart-warming guzzle for food. Then, in the east, we heard experience to see a friend of long standing. In the the echoing calls of geese, and high in the sky, evening, by the fireplace, the Sagrera children (Mandy, we could discern the advancing hordes, mere now a young lady) asked many questions about our life cobwebs against the blue. As they neared, in Alaska and in Denver. the lines became birds, and rank after rank The next day I had an interesting hunt, which I advanced, each flock calling. Suddenly there recorded at some length in my journal: was a different note from the methodical flight voices, and the first band began to fall December 9: Was up before daybreak, had a from the sky, dropping abruptly with set wings, cup of “cawfee” with figs and bread and then while a great clamor arose as they settled. The was off on “hossback” with my guide Tavor other groups followed, and soon there was a Beaudreau. My friend did not speak English, great swirling mass revolving about looking and I could not speak French, so our con- like an animated funnel, the birds cutting versation was extremely limited. We rode on smaller circles each time and finally settling through the moss-draped live oaks and crossed to the ground. Each flock was made up of the little canal which leads to the flat prairie several family groups for, as they sailed about, country stretching interminably toward the there were distinct units in the calling horde.

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We walked our horses slowly back up December 18, hoping we might secure a couple more the ridge and, when within half a mile, tied marsh deer. Several hunts were made in the near vicin- my horse and, removing the saddle from ity in the next several days, and then, as the season was Tavor’s, we began an interesting stalk. I had growing late, I headed back home via New Iberia and often heard of walking behind oxen on geese New Orleans, arriving in Denver on Christmas Eve, the but never had attempted it before. Tavor led end of my fieldwork in 1925. the horse and, with my right hand on the pony’s back and bent over double, I followed along, keeping step with the horse. It was Abyssinia, 1926–1927 backbreaking work and, when within about 100 yards, the geese raised with a roar of Off to Chicago and Abyssinia, July 1, 1926– wings and a clamor of wild voices and milled October 17, 1926 about to the west of us. Soon the swirling, Only local fieldwork was undertaken near Denver during funnel-shaped flock began to spill birds, and the early months of 1926. Looking back through the they again settled a few hundred yards away. years, I can pinpoint contacts with individuals who were Again, we took up the tedious walk, stopping responsible for my changes in activities, and one was a now and then that the horse could graze in a Chicago-area ornithologist, Henry K. Coale, who visited natural manner, and then we could rest our me at the Museum in late April 1926. During the course tired backs. Finally, I began to get a glimpse of our conversation, he gave glowing accounts of work of white heads to the rear, and I knew the in remote places by men of the Field Museum, the 1920s time was about ripe. being the Golden Age of exploration for naturalists col- Tavor turned, giving me the signal, and lecting specimens in many parts of the world. He said I dropped in the grass, while he led the horse that Dr. Wilfred H. Osgood, curator of zoology, who, in a few feet ahead; and then, as the great flock earlier days, had been active in fieldwork in Alaska, knew left the ground, we fired, he four times, and of our Arctic endeavors through my reports published I pumped six shots in and then took several in the Condor (Bailey 1925–1926) and that Osgood had more as the birds sailed over. We collected 14 said, if I was interested in going on a long expedition, magnificent birds, both adult and young birds. I should write him. At that time, it was not considered All were typical Blue Geese, however, with none proper to offer a job to a man in another museum; the of the white-bellied fellows among them. approach should be indirect. Naturally, I was intrigued. I wrote Dr. Osgood a letter We returned to the Sagreras’ with one horse car- of inquiry that night regarding an opening and a few days rying the load, as mine refused. Mosquitoes were very later had a wire from Director D.C. Davies offering to pay bad, and as the wind was on our backs, there were so my expenses to Chicago for a conference on the condi- many insects in front of us that we inhaled them. As a tion I was willing to go to South America—to Brazil—in result, I found it more comfortable to dismount and walk June. On May 8, I visited the Field Museum. Dr. Osgood backward, holding on to the reins to prevent stumbling, had been in New York, so he was not at my meeting with the wind helping to keep the insects from my face. Mr. Davies, but a wire had been sent him regarding my The next week was spent preparing specimens, arrival, and Osgood was expected back shortly. noting the assemblage of many species of small birds My talk with Mr. Davies was short and sweet. Would I in the marshes, among the live oaks, and on the sandy be willing to go to Brazil with Karl Schmidt, an outstand- shores. The weather turned stormy with onshore winds ing herpetologist, and others for ten or twelve months? I strong off the gulf, so I returned to Avery Island on would, so a satisfactory salary was agreed upon. An hour

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later, Dr. Osgood returned to his office, and as I shook News whenever transportation would permit; and Louis hands with him, he commented, “I hope you haven’t Agassiz Fuertes, the noted bird artist (Fig. 3.25). made arrangements with the director.” On my response It was difficult to pull stakes from the Denver that I had agreed to go with Dr. Schmidt, Osgood said, museum, but Director Figgins gave me his blessing. We sold “Damn, I wanted you to go with me to Abyssinia.” our home, stored our furniture, and arrived in Chicago I did not know where the highland kingdom of July 1. During the next two months, I was busy helping Dr. Abyssinia was, so such a trip seemed more appealing, Osgood arrange for supplies. Our food was to be packed in and in a short time, my destination was changed from “chop” boxes with supplies for a couple days in each box, South America to Africa, the expedition being sponsored so only one need be opened at a time. The food was ordered by the Chicago Daily News under the leadership of Dr. from London, each box weighing about 75 pounds, more Osgood. There were to be five members in the party, the than usual for African work, for they were to be carried by other three being Suydam Cutting, a friend of Theodore mules, one on each side, instead of by porters. and Kermit Roosevelt, who had been with them hunting On the staff of the museum was Clifford Gregg, ibex in Asia; Jack Baum, a writer who was to send a formerly with the Marshall Field store, who was learning day-to-day account of expedition activities back to the the detail so necessary that, a few years later, qualified

Figure 3.25. Field Party at hotel in Djibouti, French Somaliland, October 4–5, 1926. Left to right: Jack Baum, Suydam Cutting, A.M. Bailey, Wilfred H. Osgood, and Louis A. Fuertes. Photographer unknown. DMNS No. IV.BA26-111.

32 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 his appointment as director of the Field Museum. Our City and left at midnight on September 8, my wife and first meeting was when he was delegated to take me to friends, the Kents and Griffiths, seeing me off. the store to secure a tuxedo to wear when we visited Ras The other members of the party were met in New Tafari, the ruler of Abyssinia. In later years, Gregg and York, and we sailed on the Mauretania as scheduled. I became close friends. The following day, after visiting There were many interesting people aboard, one with Marshall Field, I recorded in my notes: whom I became acquainted being the “Unsinkable Mrs. Brown” of Titanic fame, a former noted Denverite. I talked Have ordered practically all our supplies with her often during the voyage. Mrs. Fuertes and daugh- and am ready to commence packing. We ter Mary accompanied us, both expecting to stay in Paris are going to be well equipped and have all until Louis’s return. the comforts that one could ask for while in A week was spent in London. We visited the his- the field, together with the best photo outfit torical places and met many naturalists. Louis Fuertes I have had a chance to work with. We have wanted to go to the Savage Club where, as a member of two new ICA Nixes 3 1/4 x 4 1/4 and an Auto the Cornell Glee Club, he had visited years before, and Graflex the same size, both cameras with Carl I accompanied him. It seemed a rather stuffy place, Zeiss Tessar 4.5 lenses. In addition, we have a and Louis claimed he saw the same men sitting in the 15-inch Cooke telephoto lens for the Graflex. same chairs as on the occasion of his former trip. Field Our outfit will be rather extensive, for we are Museum Director Davies was in London and invited me outfitted for five men, so with blankets (15), to dinner at his hotel, his other guest being Colonel saddles, packsaddles, photo supplies, and Patterson of Tsavo lion fame, the hunter who killed the whatnot, we shall make quite a showing. man-eating lions that had literally held up construction Have been reading up on all the litera- of the railroad in southern Africa. ture I could get hold of, and it seems we are Osgood, Fuertes, and I joined Jack Baum and Suydam in for mighty interesting experiences. Our Cutting in Paris September 20. We purchased additional transportation has been arranged for. We supplies, visited the Louvre and other noted places, experi- leave New York at 1:00 a.m., Wednesday, Sep- ences duly recorded at length in my notes, and continued tember 8, on the Mauretania—than which on our journey, arriving in Marseilles the morning of there is no better. We have the best rooms September 23 and, after two busy days attending to details, available, one each, so taking it all in all we sailed on the SS Chambord of the Messageries Maritimes, are being treated pretty well. passing close to Chateau d’If, of the Count of Monte Cristo fame, and then skirting close along steep hills. There was Numerous visitors came to the museum to see our a cosmopolitan crowd aboard, the deck crowded with equipment, among them being Theodore Roosevelt Jr., people of many nationalities, many taking breakfast next and Dr. Lambie, noted missionary from Addis Ababa and morning in their pajamas when we were passing through other African places, who gave us valuable advice. One the narrow strait between Corsica and Sardinia. The coast- man who had hunted extensively in Africa was particu- lines were rugged and rocky, and the vessel was convoyed larly interested in our camping equipment. He inspected by many seagulls. At 10:00 we were abreast the volcano our tents, cots, and blankets with a knowing eye, and Stromboli and, at noon, entered the passageway between then asked to see our sheets. When told we didn’t have Sicily and the toe of Italy, there seeming to be a continu- any, he shuddered and, pointing to the blankets, said, “I ous settlement along the mainland shore, large buildings could never sleep between those things.” being seen in Messina on the northeast tip of Sicily. Gradually, all equipment was gathered together The passage down the Mediterranean was smooth, and shipped. I took my family back to our home in Iowa and on the morning of September 28, the island of Crete

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was still visible behind us. The many interesting people many bathing houses lined the Mediterranean. As soon as aboard helped to pass the time away. Fine weather and a the ship tied to the buoys, many Arabs came aboard with smooth sea continued. About 10:00 the following morning, papers, postage stamps, rugs, and shawls for sale, while in we began to sight fishing dhows with their peculiar four the canal were a myriad of boats waiting to take us ashore sails. They were strung in a long line, evidently having for our first walk on African soil. We found the city full struck good grounds. Many flying fish were seen, and dif- of vendors of everything imaginable, from postcards of ferent land birds were sighted from offshore, some of them naked ladies to invitations to take us to hotels where one alighting on the ship—a dove, a shrike, several wheatears, could find congenial company! The beggars were most a nighthawk, and a white heron. We neared Port Said at persistent and would not take no for an answer. Also, they the north end of the Suez Canal about 11:00 and entered asked for twice as much as they hoped to get. the roadstead at noon, the statue of de Lesseps, the canal’s builder, conspicuous on the waterfront. From a distance, October 1: We made 335 miles the last Port Said looked like a village in the sea, for the surround- 12 hours over a smooth, sweltering sea. ing country was so flat as to be invisible from a distance. Extremely warm during the day and night The town itself looked tropical, with its frame, with very little air to help things along; barrack-like houses and wide verandas. A beach with I sweltered in my bunk a long time before

Figure 3.26. Unloading cargo, Governor’s Palace in background, Djibouti, French Somaliland, October 4, 1926. DMNS No. IV.BA26-029.

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falling asleep. There were but few birds to be seen, a few of the Red Sea Bridled Terns and an eagle or two. October 2: Weather continues mild as we move down the Red Sea. Many eagles, a couple of them, and wagtails, and a short- eared owl near the ship. A small dove and wagtail came aboard, the dove being caught. Quite a school of porpoises played off the bow for some time. October 3: Weather still perfect with a cool headwind. The barn swallows, which appeared last evening, were still with us this forenoon, and we saw three kestrels. Last evening, after my notes were written, Jack saw a kestrel strike a wire, for it whirled into the sea. Aside from the swallows, we have seen an occasional wagtail and a small finch-like Figure 3.27. Street scene, Djibouti, French bird. The Bridled Terns are quite numerous, Somaliland, October 4, 1926. DMNS No. at least a dozen or so cruising along with us. IV.BA26-232. But of most interest are the little migrating quail, about a half-dozen, appearing quite vegetation for the most part, for the town was in a desert exhausted. They alighted on the ship until area where all trees had to be irrigated (Fig. 3.27). The frightened away and then kept circling by, one people intrigued us—coal black Somalis, no two dressed at a time, in an effort to find a safe roosting alike, some wearing white pants, some varicolored, place. It is possible they have been flying the and some practically none. There were many beggars length of the Red Sea rather than across. and deformed people pitiful to behold, but we learned by experience that to start giving baksheesh resulted The Chambord passed through the strait of Bab- in being surrounded by outstretched hands. I started a el-Mandeb early the morning of October 4, there being stampede in a coffee-picking establishment when taking an exceptional sunrise with great fleecy clouds over the photos. I pointed the “evil eye” at some women, and they southeast tip of the Arabian Desert. A few hours later, the let out a yip and departed quickly. When I offered an old capital city of French Somaliland, Djibouti, loomed ahead, beggar a franc to take his picture, he backed away, point- our vessel being convoyed by small gulls and numerous ing skyward and murmuring, “Allah! Allah!” Some of the terns. The anchor was dropped, and natives young and old boys thought it a great joke and offered to pose, evidently came out and dived for coins, at which they proved adept not worrying about Allah. (Fig. 3.26). Lightered ashore with our hand baggage, we That afternoon, Fuertes and I took a walk along a registered at the Continental Hotel, a clean and comfortable tidal flat where many interesting birds were seen, including place with a wide veranda so necessary where temperatures a “kop-kop” so near our little green heron that his voice of 110 degrees in the shade are not unusual. was the same. There were several oystercatchers, curlew, The buildings of the business district were white, the small plover, sandpipers, a large heron and a smaller large ones with arched doorways, many of the wide streets white one—all remarkably tame. Few land birds were lined with oleanders and a few palms, but there was little noted, a couple warbler-like species and hoopoes—all in

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all, a nice stroll along the shores of the Gulf of Aden and In the afternoon, Louie Fuertes and I took a carriage our first field trip together on African soil. to the Oasis of Ambouli a couple of miles from town. I The days spent in Djibouti were too few to cover found my idea of an oasis as a big cluster of palms imme- the many interesting places. Jack Baum and I walked diately surrounded by desert was the wrong one. The Oasis about the city in the morning to get photographs for use in of Ambouli was really a plantation, its beautiful grove of Jack’s articles to be published in the Chicago Daily News. date palms kept alive by irrigation, the water being pulled The little circular tukuls of the native quarters were packed from wells in gasoline cans by manpower. Two lines were together on a tidal flat that had been banked off from the let into the well over pulleys, the men walking up the slope rising waters (Fig. 3.28). The houses were of brush, grass, to lower the cans, which immediately filled; and then by old boxes, and burlap sacks plentifully smeared with mud, walking down and pulling, the men brought the cans to the dome-shaped roofs being made of the same material— the surface where the water was dumped into a little res- perfectly adequate construction in a region of scant rainfall. ervoir. This and smaller, nearby wells furnished the water The natives were a good-natured lot, my cure for bak- to irrigate the picturesque spot. sheesh being the camera. Almost invariably, the younger Every bit of ground moistened from the overflow women would run, usually laughing, though many went was cultivated, and little square tracts were planted with through the antics of apparently cussing us out. grain and vegetables. Immediately around the palms At a place where men were slaughtering a beef, and inside the irrigated area were various thorn trees, many vultures and dark-headed gulls hovered near. Also Mimosa, and shrubs that were hardier and lived from close to water were shorebirds—yellowlegs, plover, turn- the overflow. So, from the distance, the whole oasis, a stones, least stilts, and a couple of stilts. Back near the mile or so in length, appeared but a struggling little belt hotel was a little warbler-like bird, with a very long tail, of green with a few palm fronds cutting the sky. which acted like a wren, jumping among the branches The oasis proper was a wonderful relief from the with tail erected at right angles with the body. glaring desert surrounding. There was a coolness and

Figure 3.28. Native tukuls, Djibouti, French Somaliland, October 5, 1926. DMNS No. IV.BA26-230.

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Figure 3.29. Somali laborers carting field crew’s baggage to train, Djibouti, French Somaliland, October 5, 1926. DMNS No. IV.BA26-254. a fragrance that was refreshing, and birdlife, as was to and interesting spot to us. We collected 17 specimens and be expected in the only watered region for miles, was saved them all, the first from French Somaliland for the abundant. At least it seemed so to us, where every bird Field Museum. They were all secured by Louie’s collecting was interesting, and each specimen Fuertes collected was revolver with only 20 shots. a desirable one. Our first were three little Crested Larks Osgood and Cutting had their work cut out for (Alauda cristata), which apparently is a common form them, for while we were away, they were trying, without for we had seen some at Suez. They were fine little birds success, to locate a lost collecting chest, to get money with a vinaceous touch to their somber color and with very from the bank, to arrange our transportation and secure erect top knots, so they appeared like little crested quails. the “Wagon Salon” (a private car), and attend to the They were in the desert as well as in the oasis. Numerous shipment of our freight. I photographed the baggage birds were taken, including two beautiful large-billed, being pulled by manpower to the depot, the Somalis yellow-necked barbets; a couple of blue Black-headed lying almost to the ground as they pushed or pulled on Bulbuls; a wagtail (Budytes); a little flycatcher; a won- the heavily loaded carts (Fig. 3.29). They received only a derful azure-winged kingfisher; two large, yellow weaver few rupees a day, manpower being cheaper than horses finches which had brownish marks on the forepart of the in a land where no feed grows. Even skilled bricklayers head; a little barred weaver with a red neck; two blackish, earned from 65 to 75 cents per day. catbird-like fellows which we did not know where to place; A friend of Dr. Osgood living in Aden on the south- and a little finch with a black neck and white area on the ern tip of Arabia had told a Somali boy of our expedition, head. We also saw a large Caprimulgidae (whippoorwill and on the chance he could get a job with us, he had family) and crows. All in all, it was a wonderfully beautiful traveled to Djibouti and immediately laid siege to Dr.

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Osgood. On being told we were taking Abyssinians only, We had just reached the high divide a few hours out of he protested in his guttural English that he would be a Djibouti when a large band of hamadryas baboons was better personal servant than any that could be secured in noted near a native village. Birds and dik-diks were seen Addis Ababa. He would not take no for an answer. During for several miles, and then we entered a sterile country the two nights we spent in Djibouti, he spread a rug on with a succession of “hogbacks,” the sharp ridges being the floor and slept outside Dr. Osgood’s room. Dr. Oz, colored red and brown with dark blue shadows. There was as the good doctor was called by all of us, relented the very little vegetation and but few birds were noted. The morning of October 6 as we were leaving for the station train wound through igneous upheavals where the rocks and, in the ensuing months, had no cause to regret his were twisted and turned, their strata being nowhere the action. Ali proved to be a fine personal servant. same, and then over a broad plain covered with luxuriant Djibouti was behind us at 6:30, our party installed grass, a grazing area where two small gazelles, doubtless in a private wagon-lit, the rather lengthy train winding Pelzeln’s, and two gerenuks were observed. by the Somali village and then climbing up a rather Lunch was at a railway station, our first meal on steep grade across a desert of small growth and black Abyssinian soil—one that began with asparagus tips! volcanic boulders (Fig. 3.30). It was a sterile region and Shortly after leaving the town, we came to a flat, plains- but few birds were seen. Our first sight of game was of like country with yellow grass where many Pelzeln’s and three dik-diks, beautiful little antelope that merely Soemmerring’s gazelles were grazing in herds that ranged trotted into sight and then stood to watch the train. Soon from three or four to twenty. We saw several hundred of after, another, within 20 feet of the track, posed with hind these graceful animals that, from a distance, resembled quarters lowered and ears pointed forward, a perfect our antelope in color and actions. During the afternoon, little statue. Many dik-diks were seen throughout the day. several hundred camels were observed grazing at liberty,

Figure 3.30. Train en route to Addis Ababa from Djibouti, French Somaliland, October 6, 1926. DMNS No. IV.BA26-253.

38 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 and many caravans were seen, if a few loaded camels a kestrel take a quail on the wing after a harrier hawk with their attendant dark-skinned natives could be called had failed to catch it; the kill was made a few feet above caravans. There were many picturesque natives armed the ground, both birds going at great speed. Birds of with spears and shields near little stone huts built on stony prey were Fuertes’ favorites. This observation obviously ground. The people were usually stoical and gazed at the aroused his enthusiasm for, in his published account, passing train without change of expression. It was common he gave the episode about as much space as he did our to see the natives on trek with their camels, the women afternoon at the Oasis of Ambouli. plodding along with the children on their backs. They had Large, cactus-like growth was observed as the train many herds of flat-tailed sheep—mostly white animals dropped into a broad valley leading to Hawash River, veg- with black heads—the herders with their flocks being the etation being luxuriant wherever there was water, and in most characteristic feature of the landscape. Among the this area, the natives had excellent hump-backed cattle. interesting birds seen during the day were small hornbills, The river flowed between steep walls in a deep canyon, a few francolins, and many hawks and pigeons. and near Hawash village, where we spent the night, there Late in the afternoon, the train arrived at Dire Dawa was practically no vegetation. (about 4,000 feet elevation), the customs place-of-entry The train pulled out of Hawash early October 8 and into Abyssinia, and we were met by the hotel man, who passed through fine park country. Some old volcanoes had the way through customs prepared for us so we were noted where violent eruptions had taken place in could go directly to the Continental Hotel, a picturesque the distant past with great lava flows extending to the place covered with vines, the beautiful bougainvillea level of the plain. A few lakes were in the distance with flowering profusely. Dire Dawa was an interesting place terns about, and in the surrounding country were grass- with luxuriant vegetation, but, evidently, the natives were land prairies. We climbed up the Hawash valley following not to be greatly trusted since we were asked to put our along the steep escarpment to a plain where the first fountain pens in inside pockets. Leaving Dire Dawa next cultivation was noted, which continued almost uninter- morning, we immediately entered a fine grazing area with ruptedly to Addis Ababa. In places, there were platforms widespread, flat-topped Acacia trees. The landscape was with boys perched above the ripening grain, acting as open park country with wide-stretching valleys, a beauti- human scarecrows to frighten away the hordes of birds. ful country that looked ideal for game, but very little was The fine-looking fields spoke well for the fertility of the seen. Six dik-diks were noted within an hour of Dire Dawa soil, for the agriculture was of the most primitive kind, and some colorful birds—especially azure-color starlings; the natives using oxen and big sticks as plows. various hawks; pigeons in flocks; and two that we took to Approaching Mojo, we could see the Arussi Range be guinea fowls, which raised straight into the air on quiv- to the southwest on the opposite side of the Hawash valley, ering wings, poised for a second, and then dropped to the which was to be our first hunting area. The country, as ground. About two hours out, there was a band of about 50 we neared Addis Ababa, was rolling, with tilled fields hamadryas baboons, old fellows and small ones ambling resembling those of France more than what we imagined unconcernedly over open parks near the railroad. About we should see on the Dark Continent. All the native trees an hour before reaching Gotha, six gerenuks were seen, having been cut off for firewood, Menelik successfully and in the course of the afternoon, two other bands of six introduced Eucalyptus from Australia, and so, from the each; one group ran at the approach of the train, but the distance, Addis looked like a great forest. About 5:00, the others stood leisurely in a little bowl-like park, apparently train drew into the station, where many soldiers were not in the least alarmed. standing at attention, and a hotel man who said that There were many starlings and handsome, green- Ras Tafari (the future Selassie) had commissioned him ish bee-eaters with long forked tails, and a great number to care for our baggage, all of which was to be free of of hawks, including the short-tailed Bateleur. We saw duty, met us. It was a convenience that we were allowed

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to enter without the formality of baggage inspection. dark cloth hiding his face. He never deigned to glance to Porters carried our luggage on their heads the couple right or left, and while a native hung to a stirrup on one of miles to the hotel, and Ali commandeered a horse and side, on the other would be a man holding an umbrella rode proudly in the rear to see that none of the baggage over his lord—a picture out of the remote past when went astray, while the five of us crowded into a car for feudal barons rode afield among their serfs. The business transportation to our hotel. part of the town was conventional, being made up of the Our first impression of Addis was a favorable one usual collection of two-storied buildings to be found in with its wide street leading from the depot, hundreds the tropics. We passed the markets with their many stalls of white-robed figures jumping out of the way. Not a but saved examination till another day. wheeled vehicle was to be seen, except a few autos. It was In the early evening, we went to the American a page out of medieval times. There was a courtyard at Mission for tea with Drs. Pollock and Russell, their fami- the hotel where we were able to set up some of our equip- lies, and the nurses. The mission had a very complete ment, if we desired, and a warehouse to keep our extra hospital, run by the Presbyterian Church, with capacious paraphernalia. grounds, substantial buildings, and excellent personnel, Next day, in the forenoon, we called at the British the hospital overflowing with malaria, typhoid, and Embassy, there being no American embassy in Addis, to paratyphoid cases. see about our baggage. The embassy (in the charge of a The pi-dogs of Addis were a never-ending menace. Mr. McClaine during the absence of Mr. Bentinuik, the Several Europeans had been bitten, including the French minister) was a substantial building set back with others minister who returned on the Chambord from Port Said in a capacious ground well-wooded with Eucalyptus. It where he had gone for the Pasteur treatment. These was a nice setting shut off by walls from the crowds of mangy, good-for-nothing curs were by the thousands, natives that filled the streets. Being Saturday, the main and owing to the religion of Indian merchantmen which market day of the week, the streets were jammed with forbade the taking of life, it had been difficult to get people, each taking his load of wares to be bartered or any legislation to eliminate them. We were told the Ras sold. Some drove herds of sheep, while others had their realized the situation but was uninterested, saying, “The burros packed with grain. Cow dung for fuel was an natives have a good cure.” article of commerce, and mules and horses were the On Sunday, October 10, Osgood, Fuertes, and chief articles of trade. The natives were picturesque in Cutting visited a Colonel D.A. Sandford, who extended their flowing shammas; the well-to-do rode mules or fine an invitation for us to work on his ranch, and as a horses, often with equipment greatly decorated, while consequence, Fuertes and I planned to spend a week their retainers, slaves, or servants ran at their sides. No there along the south bank of the Muger, some 30 miles well-to-do person traveled alone. It was not done! north of Addis. My Sunday afternoon was spent, with Our car traveled at good speed, with the horn a camera, standing on the street corner and snapping honking continually to warn the natives, a constant likely looking subjects. A small crowd of curious people stream of Abyssinians grabbing hurriedly at a sheep’s gathered, and one couple even offered to pose. In the hind leg to snake it to safety, or pulling their horses or evening, we attended a movie and saw Rosita Forbes, mules from our way. So thick was the crowd, we feared “the lion woman,” in From the Red Sea to the Blue Nile; we would run down a few. The horses from outlying the natives said that, rather than calling her “the lion villages were not accustomed to cars, and so they were woman,” they called her “the she-devil.” constantly trying to break and run. The Abyssinians were October 11 was one of the highlights of our Abys- wonderful riders, however, and seemed to get consider- sinian experiences, for in the afternoon, we visited Ras able enjoyment from their mounts’ behavior. Often we Tafari (later known as Haile Selassie) at the Queen’s passed some high personage who rode along sedately, a palace, and contrary to our expectations, the meeting

40 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 proved to be a very simple affair, no “eastern ceremony,” Count Széchenyi, an Austrian, called no armed retainers about. The Ras had his own palace and offered his services in running our expe- but conducted his business at the Queen’s, or rather dition for us, saying that he could find us in a small anteroom of that palace. According to Jack white nyala, white bushbuck, and a cave that Baum’s account, the place was “spartan” in its simplic- would take 24 hours to go through in which ity. The walls were bare, the only furniture being the bats, one meter in length, would be found. chairs placed for us. The Ras, with his single attendant, In addition, he could find us a plesiosaurus was against one wall, and we, with Mr. McClaine, the three times as big as a large crocodile, a very British chargé d’affaires, faced him from the opposite old beast that the Gallas1 kept and worshiped! side of the room. Osgood declined his services with thanks. As we entered the palace, an attendant took our hats, and we filed in, shook hands, and then sat down. The And for October 13: Ras waited for us to speak, and then Dr. Osgood, through the interpreter, expressed our appreciation of being able Received an invitation to dinner to Ras to visit Abyssinia and thanked him for his courtesy. The Tafari’s for Saturday night. It is worded: “His Ras replied that he was glad to have us visit his country Imperial Highness Tafari Makonnen, Heir to and asked how long we desired to stay, remarking that the Throne of Ethiopia, requests the pleasure we would find traveling different from that by railroads of having Mr. Alfred M. Bailey to dinner, and autos. Osgood said we were experienced in traveling Saturday, October 16, at 7:00.” There is to be in other lands, and Ras Tafari asked, “Where?” We were a rather big gang there. all greatly pleased at the informal meeting and the Ras’s evident goodwill. He promised that our permits would be All days in Addis Ababa were busy ones with given without delay, said he would see us again before we Osgood, Cutting, and Baum arranging details of our left, and shook hands again as we went out. safari. I kept a string of traps on the hotel grounds and Afterward, we all drove to the German Legation each morning secured a few small mammals for the to meet the minister and his wife. They were receiving, Field Museum collection. and there were many others present, the legation people evidently having very good times with their tennis courts October 15: Caught but two young Mastomys and spacious grounds. Our hosts had two young hyenas, this forenoon. In the afternoon, caught a monkeys, baboons, and birds for pets. They said that in young Laggada, which I threw away, and April they had seen about 500 hartebeests in one herd at a Lophuromys, which the ants took. Set a Lake Zway. couple of steel traps on poles and caught four That evening, I developed films with the help of Ali kites and a crow. The kites would hit the bait and also caught two bats, the first mammals of the trip, on the wing and were caught by both feet. in Cutting’s and Baum’s room. Louis and I skinned them out this afternoon. In my notes of October 12, I recorded: Hall was down this afternoon with boys and horses. He speaks about six languages. I This morning I went to the Eastern Cable photo’d a Thick-billed Raven and a vulture Office to send a wire, for we have found that at about 15 feet; exposure being right, I part of Fuertes’ shipment is missing, evi- should have some good pictures. dently not having been sent from New York. October 16: Prepared three mammals In the evening, we went to Drs. Pollock and and a kite in the forenoon, as well as packing Russell at the hospital for dinner. 1 The preferred name for Gallas is Oromo.

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for our trip to Colonel Sandford’s ranch on with pleasing smiles and great dignity and the banks of the Muger. In the afternoon, politeness. We drove into the palace grounds Suydam, Jack, and I went to the horse market, through a narrow gate guarded by several a big open space surrounded by Eucalyptus. soldiers and then through another, where It was a rather picturesque place, with the one stood on guard while another blew a native huts lining one side of the grounds. bugle to announce our arrival. In the palace White-clothed natives were there by hundreds, were a score of soldiers lining the stairway and their gaily caparisoned mounts seemed to at attention, while liveried attendants sense the holiday air, for the big market day, waited at the top to take our things. In a Saturday, is really festival day for these people little reception room, we found the other who came from the outlying districts to barter men guest. The dining room was a large their goods. We had a visit from Herati Bieru, one, with many different pictures on the the confidential adviser to the Ras, and he wall, especially of horsemen in fox hunting gave us a letter to the collector of customs to costumes clearing the barriers. An oil of the return our deposit on our guns. wife of the Ras hung at one end of the room, In the evening, we went to the palace and the floor was covered with beautiful of Ras Tafari for dinner. The Ras and his carpets. Before dining, however, we were wife entertained 26 guests among whom ushered into the reception room where were three Abyssinians of high rank, men the Ras and his wife, with the lady guests,

Figure 3.31. Louis Fuertes on mule, Abyssinia, 1926. DMNS No. IV.BA26-503.

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stood to receive. Among the guests were a black bird with ruffed neck, and several Egyptian geese the French, British, and Belgian Ministers and a blue-winged form. Cranes (probably the Demoiselle) with their wives, and Dr. and Mrs. Pollock, were seen here and there over the savannahs. “Several and Dr. and Mrs. Russell. The Ras and his Hamerkops,—little white herons and two large blue wife shook hands with all. The reception forms, two species of lapwings, a yellow-billed duck; rooks, room contained several bronzes and also short-tailed ravens and white-bellied were common.” One autographed photographs, among which I large flock of white-winged pigeons was about a waterhole noticed one of President Coolidge. and many species of small forms were noted. Of most Our dinner was a triumph of culinary interest to us were some larks, which we took in the hope art, excellently prepared and served. Tej, the they might prove to be the species that Hellmayr told us of, national drink of honey wine, did not appeal known for years from but one specimen. to me. All other liquids on the calendar were Fuertes was in his glory. We were riding across obtainable. After dinner, we went again to the the plateau, grass belly-deep on our horses and altitude reception room where our party talked to the at about 8,500 feet with a delightful climate like Colo- Ras for some time. He was particularly inter- rado’s—indeed I was to note the similarity all during ested in our work and asked again concerning our months of trekking on muleback—when Louis the countries in which we had traveled and pulled in his mount near a little lake. He was silent for a about the birds and mammals to be found in moment, and then he said, “Bill, this is the best day of my distant places. He was courteous and digni- ornithological career. Every damn thing I see is new to fied; no one could have been more so. me” (Fig. 3.31). And I must confess that I was pleased to The entertainment consisted of Rosita have been with the great artist and naturalist on such an Forbes’ picture of Abyssinia and then the two occasion, as well as on his first collecting trip two weeks reels we brought from the Chicago Daily earlier at the Oasis of Ambouli in French Somaliland. News. The first was very trite and a poor When about halfway to the ranch, we had a relay of choice, but the latter, with the American horses waiting, and then the three of us—our interpreter, Derby and Rodeo, made excellent pictures. Louis, and I—continued on, pausing occasionally to see the concentration of wildfowl of many species along Louis Fuertes and I started for Sandford’s ranch shallow ponds. We both stood the 30 miles much better in a car on October 18 a little before 7:00 and headed than we had hoped, after months of inactivity. toward Mariam Church on the top of Entoto. The day was Sandford’s ranch was a wonderful place—a large bright and clear, so we had a wonderful view across the commodious house made in native style of mud and Rift Valley to the south, seeing the opposite hills plainly. grass with thatched roof and built in a rambling way The winding road from Addis was in good shape, but the much after the fashion of our own western ranch build- grade was so steep the car could get but three-fourths ings (Fig. 3.32). Roses and snapdragons were blooming of the way up. We were met by boys from Mr. Sandford’s in the garden, and the houseboys had filled all the bowls with three ponies and a mule and were soon trotting on to overflowing with blossoms. The building was on the our way. The road dropped abruptly down after we passed plateau overlooking the Muger River 3,000 feet below, the summit at around 10,000 feet. Few birds were seen, with the highlands of the Province of Gojjam looming up the wheatears being the most conspicuous. to the northward, while the precipitous cliffs of the Muger The steep slopes soon gave way to broad, grass- valley dropped sheer for hundreds of feet in many places. grown savannahs upon which thousands of cattle could There was a wonderful view from the front verandah have subsisted. There were small lagoons with many across a rose-filled garden to the canyon and beyond, the waterbirds, especially sacred ibis (a white-winged form), light blue, cloud-filled African sky lending the final color

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touch. Acacias grew on parklike, boulder-strewn slopes before breakfast, and then going hunting. On my first day a few hundred yards away from the ranch, the resort of afield, October 19, I took one of the ranch hands as a troops of baboons in the early morning. helper and went along the wall of the Muger. The cliffs Shortly after our arrival, as Louis and I were were sheer, and far off in the valley below were farms, admiring the view, one of the houseboys dressed in white each little patch the result of hard labor. Many swallows announced, “Your baths are ready!”—certainly a sur- flew deep down in the gorge, so far below they were almost prise to us. As soon as we were out of the showers, the invisible except through binoculars. Many birds of prey same attendant greeted us with, “Tea is ready to serve,” circled about, but I did not see a single mammal. and we sat down to a table nicely laid out with tea, cake, My notes of October 20 record: “Was up at 5:00 and and fresh strawberries and cream. Louis and I shook my boys waiting for me. We cut north to the banks of hands, agreeing that we were about the most fortunate the Muger and were on the grounds long before sunrise. zoological specimen hunters in Africa. The first baboons were seen on the edge of the cliff, but as I wanted to try for duiker, I left them alone. Four beautiful little klipspringers rounded a point directly in range; two were collected, so now I have landed my first game in Africa.” The next day, as usual, Louis and I were up before daybreak, each of us, after breakfast, hunting in differ- ent directions. I started along the canyon wall with my two gunbearers, and we traveled a couple hours without seeing a baboon. A duiker jumped in long grass, gave just one bound, and disappeared. Some natives, spear- carrying fellows, told us where to look for a troop of gelada baboons, but the animals saw us first and headed down the cliffs. I took a long shot and collected a mag- Figure 3.32. Colonel Sandford’s ranch house nificent specimen. In my notes that evening, I recorded: near the Muger River, Abyssinia, October 18, “My helpers scrambled down the canyon and had quite 1926. DMNS No. IV.BA26-225. a time getting the baboon up. He was a great old male. I did not dream they were such spectacular animals, with their great flowing manes and long tails.” Collecting at Sandford’s Ranch, October Fuertes was as enthusiastic as I. He made a fine 18, 1926–January 22, 1927 painting of the head and, in his published journal notes The week spent at “Mulu” was very productive for both of of October 21 mentioned: “Bailey came in, weary, fol- us, Louis not only collecting many species of birds but also lowed in about an hour by two boys with an enormous securing excellent watercolor portraits of both birds and (50 to 60 pound) gelada baboon slung between them. mammals. He worked rapidly, sketching out his subject It is a marvelous beast, maned from nape to rump, the and then painting first the parts that would be likely to hair being a full foot long. He was a maximum male, far change color. I was pleased to furnish him many subjects, exceeding any specimens I ever saw mounted.” which he always credited to me by putting my initials as My notes written at Mulu usually started with, well as date and locality on his finished drawing. “Interesting day,” but October 22 was not too produc- I set a trapline for small mammals and, in the tive, though numerous small mammals were taken in ensuing days, secured many specimens, usually taking the traps, and I enjoyed watching three klipspringers in them from the traps early in the morning, skinning them a little park area along the broken walls of the Muger

44 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 canyon. A band of gelada baboons saw us and departed Our return from Sandford’s ranch was timely for, for the depths of the canyon. The next day we followed in the early morning of October 27, Jack Baum, Suydam along walls some 14 or 15 miles to a great waterfall where Cutting, and I assembled with thousands of Abyssinians I located a band of gelada on a cliff with a sheer wall of in immaculate shammas a couple miles from Addis 2,000 feet—no ledges, just a drop to the Euphorbia-clad upon the plains at the base of Entoto to watch the slopes below with the narrow Muger River along its steep ceremonial celebration of the tenth anniversary of Ras worn bed. Later, in a better place, I collected a fine male, Tafari’s victory over Lij Iyasu, Menelik’s grandson, the which fell so far it took my two helpers an hour and a previous ruler from 1908 to 1916. There, on the great half to retrieve. plain, throngs assembled at the little church. We were the On October 24, I again worked the cliffs hoping for a only Ferengis (Europeans) present, and when Ras Tafari female gelada, but all observed were in impossible places, arrived on a fine mule covered with a cloth of gold, he so my day’s endeavors resulted in the taking of numerous paused briefly, greeted us, and then continued on. The small mammals, which I knew would please Dr. Osgood. Empress arrived soon after, followed by galloping horse- Our last day at Mulu was spent in the vicinity of the ranch men, and she too entered the church, while skilled riders house, Fuertes and I collecting francolins in the morning performed outside. The one distressing note to the color- and preparing our specimens for the trip back to Addis ful event was that there were many beggars, especially Ababa. My journal entry for October 26 was as follows: lepers, sitting in rows awaiting alms. The next three days were spent securing additional Louis and I left at 8:10 and hit for Addis pack animals, hiring personnel (at $4 American per at a lively clip. Day was beautiful and month), and thanks to David Hall’s help in the purchase cool, so we made good time to the halfway of mules, we wound up with a sizeable caravan consisting house where two excellent ponies awaited of 38 pack mules, 9 riding mules for Dabba Birru (our us. It was wonderful galloping over the headman and interpreter), Hussein (the main cook), level savannahs, and there were many Ashagri (the chief négadi in charge of the caravan), birds to break the monotony. Cranes and Mohammed (the second in command), and several other ibis allowed us within 30 feet; we saw two helpers of rank. Five fine riding mules and two horses species of geese, plover, and white-winged were purchased for our museum group. Each of us had pigeons. I found a nest of a little lark-like a “tent boy” to take care of our needs in camp—setting bird when the female flushed from under up the tents, cots, waiting on table, and such assistance my horse’s feet. She was very solicitous and —and each had a syce who always trotted alongside our hovered around, while we searched for the riding mules, proudly carrying our rifles. nest, which we found in a hoof print, two It was planned that the caravan would start off eggs in a nest of grass and feathers. Reached without us, headed for the little town of Mojo some 30 Church Mariam about 12:30 where a car miles away, and we would take the train the next morning, was waiting to take us to the hotel. Found backtracking toward Djibouti, and then join them. that Osgood has about everything ready Progress was irritatingly slow. Although all the for the trek, and we hope to get the men caravan men were eager for jobs, they were reluctant to off for the trip Friday. We hired two boys to get underway. Mohammed, at the last minute, had to buy carry our collecting chest in from Mulu, a a spade, and when asked why, he said that someone likely distance of 30 miles. The regular rate is 50 would die, and we would have to bury him. Many of the cents each, or 25 cents American. For that crew disappeared, and when Ashagri was asked where his price, they carry a heavy load 30 miles and men were, he replied, “They have gone to buy their wives then walk back 30 miles. flowers.” The afternoon of October 30 was especially

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hectic as the men stood about shouting and waving their exclaiming occasionally as we saw something of interest. arms. One fine-looking boy was particularly noisy and Fuertes was on the outside at the right and I beside him, seemed to be a troublemaker, so I asked our interpreter with the pack mules and négadis (mule drivers) strag- what he was saying. Dabba listened and then replied, “He gling for half a mile behind. We had not been on our way says the white men are our masters, and we should be more than half an hour when a beautiful blue roller flew on our way.” The young fellow was Allamayu, who was from a low shrub and started to cross in front of us only to be my gunbearer and companion in many interesting about 30 feet away. Fuertes pulled his mount to a stop, places during the ensuing months. drew his collecting revolver from the holster, and fired, Finally, the men started packing the mules, a few the beautiful bird dropping into the dust ahead of us. obstreperous animals scattering the loads all over the hotel Our gunbearers and all who saw the performance were grounds. Jack Baum showed the Abyssinians a cowboy trick bug-eyed, for they did not realize the .44 collecting gun of hobbling, which was effective to prevent plunging. The was loaded with dust shot. The prestige of the “Ferengis” work of packing was so exasperatingly slow that it was increased by 100 percent. late in the afternoon before the first contingent was on its The land was rolling, covered with Mimosa, way, the men extremely reluctant to leave. Even Dabba, Acacia, laurel, and fig, all the vegetation seeming to our headman, wanted to return to the city for the evening bear thorns. Fuertes, stepping over a fallen tree, was to talk to his “superiors,” who, we thought, was probably unfortunate to have a thorn pierce the back of his leg, the good-looking female who had been hanging around. and all our efforts to remove it only resulted in its being Eventually, the last of the loaded mules straggled out the embedded deeper. He was very lame for several weeks. gate, with one man following each group of three. Our course was along a well-marked route worn with For our museum party, the train trip to Mojo was the feet of thousands of camels and the hoofs of mules, pleasant but with no excitement except observing an the rocks having been cut several feet deep in places. Abyssinian, who was racing the train, fall from his steed Many caravans en route to Addis Ababa were met, the in a cloud of dust. We were met at the station by Mr. Fritz pack animals loaded with wheat, all the natives passing Ehm, who had a ranch outside of town, and he invited us with no apparent interest in our party. to stay with him in his comfortable home with extensive We were stopped at a “customs gate,” and quite a gardens. We were greatly impressed with a man who could row ensued in which our cook was pulled one way and build such a holding in five years’ time, for he had lost another. His pony broke away, and we went along without practically everything in German East Africa during the it. Dabba, thinking the men were trying to steal it, threat- war. Once a man of great means, he became a poor man. ened to phone to Addis that a robbery had been committed. The Mojo River, with fine acacias, giant fig trees, The locals turned out in full force and found the mule. and euphorbias along its banks, ran through Ehm’s Then they kept Dabba, who had remained behind, and he land, and in the wooded areas, Fuertes and I saw and said he paid two dollars to be turned loose! collected many interesting birds. Our caravan men were The Hawash, a small stream flowing between steep camped nearby, and the day and a half at Mojo was well banks, was crossed by fording, the water being but belly spent, giving them a chance to consolidate their loads deep on the mules, one of which fell down trying to climb and prepare for our journey to the Arussi country. the opposite bank but with no damage done. We made Finally, November 2, we were on trek on our mule- a very good march beyond the Hawash—fully an hour back journey that was to take us hundreds of miles over and a half more than intended—and pitched camp in a areas not previously covered by Americans. We headed grassy glade under beautiful Acacia trees (Fig. 3.33). southeast toward the Hawash River, and during the first On trek, early November 3, remarkably good time hour, the five of us rode abreast over a wide caravan was made. A large marsh near camp was full of water- trail with our gunbearers trotting alongside, each of us fowl, at least four species, including tree ducks and some

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Figure 3.33. Camp among acacias, Abyssinia, November 2, 1926. DMNS No. IV.BA26-244. large knobbed geese. The road led down the Hawash so made good time, being on trek eight hours, an exceed- valley for several hours, a plain described by Mayden as ingly long march. We finally dropped into the Kalata River dull and uninteresting, but not for us. On all sides were valley by a series of very precipitous steppes and made thousands of birds. The enormous fig trees were the most camp on a beautiful knoll near the rushing waters. During striking feature of the landscape, and the ripening fruit the evening, a band of very wild-looking horsemen rode could be smelled from a distance. Three bands of guenon across the river, all carrying spears. Our caravan men were monkeys were seen, their white faces peering from the scared stiff, fearing the Gallas were “shiftas” and indeed, treetops. Many cranes; storks, including Marabou Storks; they looked like bandits. We doubted, however, they would white pelicans; herons; ducks and geese; beautiful red tackle such an outfit as ours, and we were correct, for they bee-eaters; hawks; and small birds of many species were moved on and were not seen again. Our pack animals were observed as we rode along. Needless to say, we did not weary, so they were given a day of rest. My notes record: find it “dull and uninteresting.” After leaving the Hawash valley, the trail led upward November 4: We stayed over at the camp steadily for an hour or more among the low Acacia scrub. today (on the Kalata River). I caught seven It was hot and dusty and, for the most part, rather dull small rats and mice and attended to them going. We followed the main caravan route to Seerie and and the half-dozen birds collected en route

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yesterday. This has been a beautiful camp, the expanse, and spear-carrying Gallas often stood stork- though there has been little mule feed and like, each on one leg, the bare foot of the other resting the men have had to take them to the high- on the side of the knee. Our men, by this time, were in lands. I saw many baboons this evening in the a jovial mood and usually shouted questions that, more valley. They were very curious, peering from often than not, went unanswered. among the branches and then scampering Beyond the level area in the Arussi highlands was away. I could not tell the species but believe Mount Albasso and, to the right, Chilalo, both cloud- them to be dog-faced. Osgood shot one of two topped and blue in the distance. After four hours on our klipspringers, and Jack saw another. Louis way, the caravan men wanted to pitch camp saying there collected some good birds, including a large was no water ahead, but we trekked on and found water kingfisher and a couple of black mallards. every mile or so. The mules were very tired a few hours There is a fine view toward the Arussis, with later when we stopped for the night. great rolling stretches and yawning chasms There was little leisure for the museum collectors, between, the country quite bare except for however. Fuertes would immediately start searching for the small acacias and mimosas. Birdlife birds, and Osgood and I, with our gunbearers, would set continues abundant, a different fauna at a line of traps for small mammals. It should be remem- every stop. We are continuously seeing birds bered that few museum men had worked that part of not met elsewhere and have no difficulty in Africa, and so it was necessary, no matter how weary we securing specimens. might be, to attend to the traplines and to skin the birds November 5: Ran my large traps and and mammals. That evening, I recorded that I “made up found one sprung and the bait gone. In 12 specimens today, as against 17 yesterday.” another was a large eagle. Caught eight rats, We had a rather late start in a drizzling rain Novem- including three of the spiny Acomys, which ber 7, clouds scudding well below the mountaintops as are rather rare. We left camp at 8:00 and we climbed steadily, facing into a cold wind. Many Galla climbed steadily from 5,600 feet to nearly tukuls were passed, natives coming from each to watch 7,000 feet. We passed several miles of well- the straggling caravan. Soon the terrain was mountain- tilled farms and stopped at Seerie, the second ous, with large thistle-like growths, small stunted trees, customs point, for half an hour or so, where and acres of flowering plants. Camp was made at 10,200 I took a few photos. It is simply a collection feet and all five of us, with gunbearers, started hunting. of native huts. An Indian trader speaking Allamayu (Fig. 3.34) and I were scarcely half a excellent English has a store and gave us mile away when the female and two small male nyala, tea. Peeled out 17 specimens but worked by beautiful mountain antelope, were noted in an open candlelight till 9:00 to do it. Our camp is on park. Seeing Baum on a ridge, I motioned to him, and a high, windswept hill at 7,200 feet, not very we stalked the beautiful animals, which became alarmed favorable for camping and collecting. Put and gave us running shots, and the first two specimens out a few traps. of the rare mammals, nearly as large as elk, were secured for the museum collection. Our men were becoming accustomed to their November 8 was a red-letter day in that we collected daily chores, and as the cook and helpers were efficient, our first male nyala. Allamayu and I worked typical breakfast was over, and we broke camp early, the five of alpine country between 11,000 and 12,000 feet, the only us leading the caravan 1,000 feet up a very steep trail game noted in the early hours being small antelope— to a treeless plateau with excellent pasturage for cattle. duikers and oribi—but in the afternoon, Fortune smiled Numerous small settlements and herds of cattle dotted upon us. We were working along a ledge where I watched

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in a fine museum specimen. Allamayu skinned out the large trophy and carried the hide and horns on his head back to camp, where we learned that Baum had secured two magnificent bulls, thus assuring that we would have sufficient specimens for the planned habitat group of nyala to be installed in the Field Museum. We remained in our high camp for six days, collect- ing small species of birds and mammals, and I recorded rather briefly the events of each field trip.

November 9: Rained most of the morning. Jack brought in his two bulls, and they have much larger horns than mine, though mine had the most beautiful skin. Osgood shot a small female, so we have the group nearly completed—a big male, my young male, and two females. We need a half-grown animal, although it is not necessary. We have had no luck, so far, with the smaller antelope. I stayed in camp all day attending to skins. Peeled out six rats and a bird and worked on nyala, photoing and casting heads. Had a big crew at work. In the evening, I walked up to the distant divide and got two rabbits and three of the large francolins. They run like guinea fowl and are hard to flush. Rabbits are common at dusk. Tried the carbide light, but it does not work very well. November 10: Stayed in camp all day and attended to the nyala skins. Had four men Figure 3.34. Allamayu, A.M. Bailey’s gun working on them, and they are coming along bearer, Abyssinia, probably 1926. DMNS No. nicely. Buzzards and ravens hung about camp IV.BA26-175. all morning for meat. I skinned a couple of two klipspringers bound away and then saw two oribi in Otomys and two hares. There is a possibil- an opening far below near some abandoned tukuls. We ity the latter are new. Gave Louis a pair of were just starting our return to camp when Allamayu francolins and kept one old cock for myself. grabbed my arm and pulled downward and then pointed The big game slows up my collecting of small over a small rise. I could not see anything, and Allamayu forms. Set out about 25 traps in the afternoon was almost tearful as he breathed, “Gademps tidlik” (big and then went shooting east of camp in the antelope). Finally, I made out the white neck of a large open parklike slope. Saw two duikers, three bull nyala facing us, the white of the markings effectively oribi, four female nyala, and about six red camouflaging the animal. I missed with my first shot, reedbucks, collecting one. Mayden does not and the nyala did not budge, but a quick second resulted mention the reedbuck from the Arussi. We

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skinned out my specimen way after dark, so represented in the birds of prey series by Fuertes’ color got back to camp very late. No work tonight. plate with my initials upon it, inscribed, “AMB, Mount November 11: Stayed in camp ‘til late in Albasso, 10,200 feet, November 12 (1926).” the evening, making up 14 specimens. Rained My journal notes continue: in the forenoon and early afternoon. Baum and Cutting returned without lions or having seen November 14: Sunday. Collected a dozen rats any signs but collected two oribi near camp. In and made them up today. Secured a small the afternoon, I caught a couple of mice new to Sylvisorex and another Crocidura. We saw an our collection. Ravens took bait and rats from eagle catch a Thick-billed Raven. Today has our traps this morning. In the evening, I went been the most beautiful we have had here, shooting and saw three duikers, two female though it clouded over in the afternoon. I took “gademps,” as the Gallas call the nyala, and a few scenery pictures until it became too dark two reedbucks, collecting the female. Devel- and then made a detour to get a few francolins oped three dozen films in evening. right near camp. I jumped three duikers and November 12: Attended to antelope skins a male reedbuck, collected a male duiker, the all morning, trying to get them in shape for first we have secured, a nice little specimen. shipment to Mojo so we will not have to carry Packed our salted skins for shipment to Addis them with us the next two months. Rather a and expect to get them off our hands. It will nice day but cold. Sprinkled a bit. I took a few be quite a load and will be a relief to see them photos and developed at night; I find the light off. They all seem in excellent shape. It is 39 very poor with 1/25 at 11 not enough exposure. degrees this evening and, consequently, very Caught a few rats and made up nine specimens cold with the dampness. in all. Antelope skins take up too much time November 15: Was cold last night with for one to make a good showing. Jack shot a heavy frost and ice in the water bucket. a reedbuck tonight, and Cutting didn’t see a Not bad for equatorial Africa. I couldn’t thing. Game is probably scared out. We expect keep warm under all my blankets. Day has to move camp day after tomorrow. been beautiful. We moved camp and got the November 13: Stayed near camp all day boys, with the mail and the two muleloads attending to and preparing specimens. Took of specimens, off for Mojo; expect them to a new shrew today. I have noticed Lammer- join us in about ten days. We broke camp geyers, great birds of prey, working along the about 10:00 and skirted southeast along ledge above camp, and this morning I shot a the side of Albasso to our new camp. Took beautiful male adult and an immature. They us about four hours, and we had some good, are wonderful birds with light clay-colored bad, and indifferent traveling. Got into some or light straw iris, a bright reddish orange steep canyons where the pack mules found ring outside the iris proper but upon the it pretty hard sledding. We passed many pupil. Fuertes made fine sketches of them. tukuls and, below us, could see many little Jack shot another oribi, a female, tonight. farms under cultivation. The great plateau Besides the Lammergeyers, I collected and stretched yellow in the distance, with Guga prepared ten small mammals. mountain far on our right and the steep, weathered walls, which probably mark the When visiting the natural history museum in Wabe Shebele River, ahead of us. One thing Nairobi, Kenya, in 1969, I noted the Lammergeyer was sure, there is plenty of country ahead.

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In the forenoon, before breaking camp, to have the slightest conception of hunting. a few Gallas came up with their horses and He started off at breakneck speed and kept it spears to put on a show for Cutting’s movie up all morning, following the highest points camera, a good one, and I shot a few photos where we were conspicuous for miles around. [Fig. 3.35]. About 1:00, went out and saw two He showed us not one bit of game. Finally, we duikers and collected our first bushbuck, a took our own way and saw two female bush- female, within a few hundred yards of camp. bucks. We find the fauna of this camp similar Saw a couple of others, a duiker, and a klip- to that of the last, though Louis has been springer. We are now camped in a beautiful getting a few new birds. Developed a dozen place, an open park surrounded by great films. Cutting shot a beautiful male black trees, which resemble sumacs (Kossas) very bushbuck, and Jack, a male klipspringer and much. It is certainly a fine place at 11,200 a young female duiker. feet. Will be cold tonight. November 17: Out before breakfast and saw but two duiker. Allamayu and I, with a Galla guide, made a long hike south, getting into some beautiful canyon country with virgin fig forests—dense growths entwined with climbers and, often, with flowering vines. Game trails ran all along the hillsides, and a succession of waterfalls churned among the rocks below us. Saw very little game. Jack killed three wolves a short distance away. The wolves here do not know the sound of a gun, and two others came to investigate when he shot the first. Rained in the afternoon and at night. Developed a roll of film. November 18: Rainy, foggy weather most of the day, though it cleared off in the afternoon about 3:00, allowing me to take a few photos of the beautiful trees with the light streaming through their branches. Went out for birds in the morning and collected half a dozen, including two francolins. We leave in Figure 3.35. Galla spearman, Arussi the forenoon for a new camp. Mountains, Abyssinia, November 15, 1926. DMNS No. IV.BA26-210. All in our party, museum men and Abyssinians, November 16: After breakfast, the Shum were glad to start to a lower elevation, but weather forced of the village appeared to pay his regards, a delay until about noon before starting along a well- and a couple of Gallas brought in chickens marked trail that skirted the mountains at about 9,000 and sheep for barter. While they were here, feet. There was a rank growth of flowering plants, and two little duikers ran through camp, scared we were continually passing through fine grain fields. by a leopard—so the men said. Allamayu Ahead was a vista of the Shebele River with great cliffs and I took a Galla guide who seemed not showing blue, while the mountains beyond were cloud

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topped. Rain squalls were continually hurled at us from That evening I mentioned the incident to Baum and the southeast, and occasional thunder roared from the Cutting in the hearing of our interpreter, and at regular plateau. Camp was pitched at 9,500 feet in a virgin forest intervals through the night, we would hear, followed by of great trees, and all hands were glad to get under cover. derisive laughter, “Hey, Allamayu, Galla buckalo!” Three days were spent in this camp, and we were fortu- With so many specimens, I remained in camp all nate to secure small mammals and a few birds new to of November 22, but Suydam added a beautiful bush- the collection. The weather was rather disagreeable, but buck to the collection, and Jack secured a tree hyrax, the there was a fine sunrise the morning of November 21. first of its kind we had obtained. Our men were restless Great thunderclouds hung over the Shebele River, and because of the cold, and especially as the marketplace rain clouds were black beyond. Allamayu and I climbed of Tichu, at an elevation of 3,500 feet, was only about a ridge to try for black bushbucks, dropping into the four hours away. Consequently, stakes were pulled in the canyon and out the other side, and had just entered a early afternoon of the 23rd, and our caravan started the little parklike place when I saw a beautiful male stand- trek down the rugged terrain. ing in the shadows, his white markings looming up Our stay at the last camp, at a place called “Wodego,” strongly in contrast to his dark coat. He was about 100 had resulted in securing interesting specimens, and I was yards away, and he fell at the first shot and did not move. intrigued with the number of birds of prey—eagles, kites, I was delighted for these handsome fellows had given me and three species of vultures—all very tame. A yellow- the slip so many times. I measured and photo’d him and headed parrot had visited us each morning and evening, then sent Allamayu back with the fine specimen. Then I perched on topmost branches. Menelik’s Orioles occasion- saw two females and three juveniles and secured a little ally were seen, Thick-billed Ravens were conspicuous, spike buck—just what we needed to complete the series. and a small yellow species occurred in flocks. The strange A couple of natives came along, so I had them carry the turacos, handsome fellows, worked squirrel-like from specimens to camp. Continuing up the ridge, I jumped a lower branches to the tops of trees, and many birds resem- female, and while watching it, a male ran out of a gorge bling thrushes kept to heavy cover. All in all, Fuertes was and stopped within easy range in a patch of brush. He elated with the wealth of interesting forms. was larger than the first and a fine specimen. And so Cutting, his syce, and personal boy started early in ended my quest for the elusive black bushbuck. the morning, his pack mule loaded with an Akeley movie As I read over my notes, I recall a hunting incident camera and other equipment that he might film market I did not record. Early on this day, as Allamayu and I day activities at Tichu, the rest of our party following were working through rather heavy cover, I saw in an down the ridges toward the Wabe Shebele, which showed open space ahead what seemed, from the distance, a in the distance as a vague blue shadow. The trail led bushbuck. Dropping to my knee, I prepared to draw a down precipitous cliffs, and as it had been market day bead on the animal when Allamayu struck the rifle barrel at Tichu, we were constantly meeting natives, Gallas and upward and exclaimed, “Galla buckalo,” (“buckalo” Abyssinians, returning to their homes. meaning “burro”). Our caravan wound through Tichu, a customs post Such a performance was not accepted practice, with a population of possibly 500, and camp was made but he was correct. I would have killed a native’s pack above the settlement at an altitude of 9,400 feet at the animal. A month later, just before Christmas, when we edge of a wooded ravine with a forest of tall trees extend- were hunting in the Ogaden desert, I saw a beautiful stal- ing beyond. Two profitable days were spent near Tichu. lion Grévy’s zebra in open Acacia forest, the first of the It was at this little village that our party was to separate, species noted. As the animal started to run, again Alla- Dr. Osgood and Louis Fuertes going off to the west into mayu stopped me from shooting, saying, “Galla buckalo.” the Rift Valley and then heading northward to Lake Zway However, it was a zebra, and I had a crestfallen gunbearer. and back to Addis Ababa, while Baum, Cutting, and I

52 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 planned to travel eastward across the Wabe Shebele and A local chieftain—a dignified Abyssinian, not a north through the low country bordering the Ogaden Galla—came to our camp early the next morning, and desert of Somaliland. We had no definite route. We Fuertes, always friendly, went out of his way to give our might retrace our steps to join Osgood and Fuertes at visitor an idea of what we were doing. Louie showed him Lake Zway or continue on and meet them in Addis about a few paintings and then lifted the lid to the collecting the middle of January. We were going into unknown box with its layer of colorful, small bird skins. Our guest territory, so far as Americans were concerned, and were looked at the specimens for some moments and then looking forward to the journey. My journal entries for shook his head sorrowfully, and through the interpreter the next three days were: said, “God would not like that,” and then, seemingly as an afterthought, he added, “Me, I like to kill men and lions.” November 24: Have had a very interesting As soon as our guests left, Allamayu and I ran our and enjoyable day. I asked our interpreter, traps with poor success and then hunted in some beau- Dabba, to get me a guide, and he secured tiful Acacia country where birds were very abundant two Galla boys who live across the ravine. —white-tailed paradise flycatchers, parakeets, horn- I specified guereza and “conies,” and they bills, and many swallows and swifts. We dropped down led off, following a trail downward into the a canyon into euphorbias and then climbed a knife-like canyon. The boys worked better than men ridge where we ran into a fine band of the big, grayish, and walked quietly, evidently knowing just spectacular hamadryas baboons. They easily eluded us, where to look for the Dendrohyrax, for they but of more interest were large red rock hyrax, and four took me to a tree where I saw an animal dart were collected, including two very large adults with black down and then look at me from a crotch, and faces. As they were the first of the species collected, Dr. I had my first tree hyrax, a female, and pos- Osgood was very pleased. sibly, according to Osgood, a new species. A During the late afternoon, our equipment was few moments later, a female bushbuck stood divided as Fuertes and Osgood were to go down into the looking at us, and later I had a good shot at Rift Valley to the west, while Jack, Suydam, and I were a fine, black, male Menelik’s bushbuck. He to go east. We planned to meet about January 20. In my ran a short distance and fell. Allamayu took notes that night, I wrote: “Rained in the afternoon; this it back to camp, and I followed my guides, being Thanksgiving Day back home, we celebrated with a who led me over game trails through beauti- fine feed tonight, and the boys lightened the load by one ful woods. We worked by a high waterfall, bottle of rum. Had plum pudding and antelope steak, a pounding on great clumps of vines now and very good dinner for any place.” then and searching out hollow trees. Finally jumped another female hyrax and added it November 26: Was up early to start packing to the bag. The sunlight in the woods was and wrapped all my specimens in tissue wonderful, and I saw some fine trees. Then paper to put in an empty chop box with we went for guereza, which, according to Fuertes’ and Osgood’s specimens as our chests the boys, were “multa.” We dropped down were running over. Took all morning to get wooded valleys through magnificent olive straightened around and the division of sup- forests but did not see a monkey. Dabba does plies completed. We finally started about noon not believe the guereza occurs here, but on our trip after bidding Fuertes and Osgood the boys seemed to know it by name. In the “so long.” We are to meet near Lake Zwai evening, I put out a few traps and collected a about January 15th or at Addis a week later. It paradise flycatcher. is hard to tell in which direction we really will

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go, for we may end at Hawash station if we Mohammed, the cook, was a good one, but we have rumors of game. We stopped at the stock- noticed that often, for dinner, he served goat meat ade of the Fitawrari Habte Giyorgis, which is instead of some of the fine game mammals collected a well-made fence of posts surrounding his each day. When finally we protested to our interpreter, wooden “palace.” Lightning struck there yes- we learned that the cook had been trading our emptied terday and burned one of the houses. He gave tin cans to natives for goats, for his religion would not us a letter instructing the various men met en allow him to eat wild animals. The religions of our camp route to supply us with guides. Our caravan men—Coptic, Mohammedan, and half a dozen others followed an old trail a mile or so and then cut —varied greatly. Several of the men we called “cut- down toward one of the canyons leading into throat Christian” because they required that all game the Wabe. Crossed some very precipitous trails, they could eat should be cut across the throat from ear the birdlife being like that of Mojo, for we saw to ear while the animal was still moving. Naturally, this many similar forms, especially wheatears, last group fared badly, but we noticed that our personal larks, and thrushes. There was a stiff climb boys became backsliders and sold out for a prick on the upward from the canyon to the plateau that throat that barely brought blood. was very hard on the mules, and we trekked Each morning, while we were having breakfast, a long distance over the level expanse—too the négadis would pack the mules, the syces would have far for the mules—camp being made near the riding animals fed and saddled, and the caravan a waterhole of apparently not-too-bad water was usually on the trail by 8:00, the three of us often near a single tree. We drink only tea, so bad making side trips into likely areas for game. The usual water does not worry us much. On the plateau, day’s journey was four to five hours, according to the I saw red-bellied wheatears, horned larks, and terrain and distance from one waterhole to another, our the small, sparrow-like fellows we have been objective usually being some place suggested to the head trying so hard to secure. I collected one, and if négadi, Ashagri, by people encountered along the way. any bird of our trip proves to be undescribed, I taught my tent boy, Wulda Giorgis, to set mammal then this will be it, for it is small, not numer- traps immediately when camp was made, and he usually ous, and extremely hard to get. It is a perfect would put out a string of 40 or more, while Allamayu and specimen. Wonderful sky effects behind us over I would go hunting for larger game, Baum and Cutting, the Arussis, with salmon-colored clouds in the with their gunbearers, doing the same. As it was neces- north lighted by the setting sun and ominous sary for us to collect birds as well as mammals, I usually storm clouds hanging over the mountain. took three guns, a .22 rifle, my 30.06 Springfield, and a It must be very disagreeable and cold there shotgun, and Dr. Osgood, in his published journal notes, tonight, for thunderstorms are playing about, referred to me as “Three-gun Bill.” and a light drizzle has set in, while a hyena is In securing museum specimens, most collectors making music on the horizon. I prepared two try to average a certain number a day, and I decided Mastomys and seven birds tonight. upon ten. If I took only five, it meant 15 the next day. One hundred and ninety-seven days elapsed from the After our party divided, with Osgood and Fuertes time of our arrival in Addis Ababa to our departure from heading into the Rift Valley, our routine the first thing in Gallabat in western Abyssinia, where we were to go into the morning was to shout to the cook, “Shi, tolo, tolo!” the Egyptian Sudan, and I collected a total of an even (tea, hurry, hurry), which resulted in our tent boys bring- 1,000 birds and 800 mammals. All small specimens were ing nearly a quart of hot tea to each of us, and when the carefully made into scientific skins and pinned into trays drinks were downed, we were all ready for breakfast. in my collecting box, carried on muleback and subjected

54 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 to constant bumping. When dried, they were wrapped say there is a wonderful canyon at the right, and packed into the chop boxes that originally contained which will rival the Grand Canyon. Heard food. Large specimens of birds and game were salted, the francolins calling this evening. Skinned 13 hides of mammals being put in burlap bags, the birds specimens, besides caring for the three skulls into chop boxes. Museum collecting and handling of of the reedbucks. specimens, when subjected to the constant punishment November 30: We were away by 8:30. of muleback travel, presented problems differing from It is the first time for ages that the sun has those encountered on motor journeys. Several of our raised in a clear sky. Wonderful clouds came men were trained to skin and salt the large game, but, up from over the Wabe shortly, however, of necessity, the small specimens required my attention, and set off the bold headlands with their often resulting in preparation work far into the night. blue shadows. I caught a Lophuromys and On this expedition, no one could have had more a Laggada this forenoon and saw a female congenial companions, and during the months of field- reedbuck and her fawn in an open field, a work, often under difficult conditions, there were never beautiful sight. Collected a breeding pair of any controversies. the large francolins we found on Albasso. Our journey November 27 was due east over the Our trip was more interesting today, and plateau, a rather featureless landscape as far as beauty of about 11:00, we dropped off the plateau terrain was concerned, for the day was drab, and there were down the steep, wet trail which wound back few trees. We passed numerous Galla villages, and when- and forth down the precipitous escarpment ever water occurred, there were ducks of several species to the valley floor of the Wabe Shebele River. and Egyptian geese, white-winged ibis, storks, herons, and The trail was very steep, so we were glad to shorebirds. The next day, we traveled four hours and made walk. Saw a band of guerezas in the woods camp near a dry ditch in which there was seepage water, on the plateau at about 8,500 feet, and Jack having noted few birds and three reedbucks. collected a fine male. On the way down the November 29 I recorded: trail, we picked up some wild-looking Gallas who said they would show us guerezas. We Six years have passed since my wife and I were soon located a band by their calls—birdlike made happy in Juneau, Alaska, when Beth notes with a cadence like that of a cooing was born. Lots of ice has gone through Bering dove, except the voice is more guttural. We Strait since then. Today we trekked five hours jumped a dozen, which took to the tall trees over the plateau seeing but little of interest. and played “possum,” their black and white The tree clumps with the native groves became colors blending with the light of the sky and more numerous toward the end of the trip. the shadows of the trees so well that we could Weather continued overcast with wonderful not make them out for some time. Though cloud effects. Finally, a great cliff appeared on very conspicuous when jumping from one our left, indicating a broad valley, and about tree to another, they are protectively colored the same time, we saw a dozen reedbucks. We when quiet in the high trees. We collected each shot one, intending to have meat for several fine specimens. Camp was in a all the men, but the Christians stuck all the beautiful little opening halfway down the animals, so the Mohammedans were out of escarpment, with the mountain Abul Kasim luck. Wulda caught a new Lophuromys this off at our left crowned with fleecy clouds. evening; I set out about ten rattraps, and he, Stayed in camp all afternoon taking care of 20. Rain again tonight. Jack and Suydam the monkeys. Counting the four guerezas,

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I have ten specimens for the day. Allamayu encounter people along the trail. Camp was made in a reports “multa sh’koko” (hyrax) a short nice setting at the foot of towering Abul Kasim near a ways away, so I will try for them in the fore- spring where, unfortunately, the water had been contam- noon. My guereza monkeys were nearly 50 inated by cattle. In my notes, I mentioned that: “A small inches in length. Jack shot a dik-dik tonight. species of black ant is here by the billions and covers Our camp is at 6,500 feet, a drop of 2,000 everything. A kite grabbed a Procavia skull almost from feet, and we seem little more than halfway under the hand of one of the boys. Eagles and crows very down the escarpment. tame here, the short-tailed crow replacing the common December 1: Was out at daybreak with Thick-billed Raven of the highlands.” Allamayu for sh’koko and collected three The next morning, we had an early start downgrade small gray fellows, a new species to my list, to the Wabe and wound down the precipitous slopes of Abul and a large red one like those of Tichu. Saw Kasim. Much of the country looked like an old orchard a couple of other red ones. Also collected a with great flat rocks scattered over the countryside; the guenon monkey, a large male. We had a late trail was very rocky and not many birds observed for the start from camp, leaving about 9:00. Saw a first part of the journey, but when we reached the valley, flock of greenish pigeons. Menelik’s Orioles birdlife became more abundant. The floor of the Wabe was were singing, and the bell-like notes of the very narrow, and on the flat immediately against the river brown hornbill were heard from all sides. were trees resembling live oaks in general appearance. This species seems very fond of the euphor- Baum led the caravan and saw a band of guereza monkeys bias. Our trail dropped down rapidly via a and a large male warthog. The Wabe was too deep to wade, well-marked caravan route. We were soon in so we camped in a beautiful spot, while the men carried a country of thorn trees where the tangle was logs to build a raft to ferry our baggage over. very dense, looked ideal for gerenuks with the The Wabe was a disappointment, for we had envi- “candelabra” and century plants. Few birds sioned a broad, level plain with a more or less sluggish were seen en route and no mammals. Our river moving through. Instead, there was a rushing guide tried to stop us after two hours with the river piling between precipitous walls and practically usual yarn of no water. We traveled two more no game. Abul Kasim rose for nearly 5,000 feet from the hours, finally dropping down a steep trail to valley floor, and its cloud-topped crest was extremely the Karo River where we pitched camp under precipitous on the southwest slope. a very large and picturesque tree. The tangle Our attempt to cross the Wabe by raft was a failure roundabout was too dense to hunt, and small the next morning, December 4, but as the turbulent mammals were nil. Had hard work to set river seemed to be falling, we decided to camp for a nine traps, all of them in poor sets. Saw a few days to see if we would be able to ford the stream. dik-dik and collected a pair of parrots like Cutting and I walked up the valley, ran into a nice those on Albasso. Our camp here is 4,900 feet group of guerezas, and collected several, including the along a fine, swift-flowing stream, and we all granddaddy of all the species, a magnificent specimen. had a much-needed bath. Several warthogs were noted. My notes of December 5 and 6 mention that it was The journey December 2 was up a ridge from camp still impossible to ford the Wabe and that we collected over a well-marked caravan trail through dense scrub numerous specimens. Ashagri, our head négadi, went for the first couple of hours. The soil was red, and many after hyrax with my shotgun and jumped a leopard birds new to me were noted as, gradually, the thorny a short distance from camp, wounding it with 7 1/2 vegetation became sparser. We did not pass a village or birdshot. He came back greatly excited, telling us the

56 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 cartridge was no good! There were many hamadryas its steel jaws upon a finger and, late in the evening, had baboons along the cliffs, including some fine old a mule kick him. The next morning he had an exciting males, and one began barking at us when I collected a adventure. Baum, Cutting, and I were just finishing our female dik-dik, so we started stalking them. Soon they breakfast when we heard shouting up the hill, and Wulda stopped calling, but we located several of the big males came to me and said the men had a jib—a hyena—cor- in trees, and two fine specimens were taken. The next nered in some brush, and if I would give him my rifle, he morning, December 6, I strolled out of camp without would kill it. Hyenas are not dangerous, so I foolishly told my gunbearer, and I recorded in my notes that I “had him to go ahead. Soon I heard the men yelling “neber,” the daylights scared out of me by a five-foot crocodile which means leopard, and I realized someone might get that backed out of his hole with tail thrashing, so he hurt. I hurried up the hill to a clump of vegetation, pos- looked like a giant mamba—within three feet. He was sibly 100 yards across, Wulda having disappeared along as frightened as I was.” I also mentioned that Allamayu a game trail, while the dozen or more camp men sur- had “stubbed his toe, making an ugly looking wound.” rounded the dense tangle. I heard a roar as the leopard Our men were barefooted, and the soles of Allamayu’s was jumped, and then there was silence. I yelled for Wulda feet were like leather. As the whole end of his right big to wait. No doubt, he was moving cautiously, for I gained toe was peeled back, I tried a first treatment by having on him—and then heard the leopard a second time. I him put his foot on a stump near my tent while I applied caught up to my tent boy in a comparatively open spot, iodine, our headman Ashagri unsympathetically looking took the rifle from him, and paused to get my breath, all on. Finally, Ashagri grabbed my gunbearer by the arm, the time searching the shadows ahead, realizing that the gave him a jerk, and said, “You think you white man, leopard likely would be crouching nearby. Wulda stepped huh?” Allamayu was dragged to the cook’s smoldering to my left about ten feet, and I again heard the cat snarl. fire, pushed to the ground with heel in the dirt and toe I turned in time to see the animal in full air as it struck thrust upward, whereupon Ashagri reached into the fire, my helper in the face with its left claws, Wulda falling picked out a glowing coal and placed it, sizzling, upon backward with the big cat landing on him. Naturally, I the bleeding wound, holding it there until the toe was yelled, and immediately the leopard half turned and then completely cauterized, Allamayu not even blinking at the used Wulda as a springboard as it leaped at me. contact! I was most fortunate. My first shot took the animal It should be noted that our négadis treated their a little to the right side of center of the chest, half turning sore-backed mules by burning with red-hot irons, and him, and my second, as he landed almost at my feet, that, within a few days, the wounds usually healed, and was—as I learned afterward—through the heart. With the men were to resume packing the animals. As I saw one bound, the leopard disappeared into cover. As Wulda Allamayu receiving the same treatment, I felt I had lost regained his feet, brushing blood from his forehead and the services of my best man. Consequently, a half-hour face, our interpreter came running along the trail with a later, when leaving on a hunt, I handed the rifle to my .45 revolver held in his hand (Fig. 3.36). Wulda grabbed tent boy Wulda and started off. There was intense rivalry the gun and dived into the brush after the wounded between my two helpers, and we had hardly started when animal, which, fortunately, some 30 feet away, was I heard a hop, step, and jump as Allamayu grabbed the dead. From that time on throughout our journey, Wulda gun, put it on his shoulder, and followed me as though carried the scars down his forehead and face as a mark of nothing had happened. distinction, for always the big chieftains and lesser folk Wulda was one of the unfortunate people who was whom we met asked questions and remarked upon his always having things happen to him. He was a valuable bravery (Fig. 3.37). After working in Arctic Alaska in 1921 assistant in that he put out traps each evening for catch- and 1922 with polar bear, walrus, seals, and caribou, I ing mammals, and at this camp, he had a #2 1/2 snap thought I would like to be a big game photographer, but

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Figure 3.36. Wulda, at right, holding leopard that knocked him down, Wabe Shebele River, Abyssinia, December 7, 1926. DMNS No. IV.BA26-183. when that big leopard jumped at me, I changed my mind and decided my photographic efforts should be turned toward wildflowers, butterflies, and birds. Lower water in the Wabe, December 7, enabled the men to carry some of our equipment and specimens to the opposite shore, wading neck deep (Fig. 3.38), and the next morning we left our camp, swimming our pack animals, while the three of us hung on to our riding mules, the men firing rifles to frighten crocodiles. None the worse for our swim across the Wabe, we crossed into desert country which, as far as we knew, had not been traversed by Americans or field naturalists. Consequently, I hoped I would be able to collect interesting specimens.

Figure 3.37. Wulda after encounter with leopard, Abyssinia, December 7, 1926. DMNS No. IV.BA26-016.

58 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3

Figure 3.38. Crossing Wabe Shebele carrying leopard specimen, Abyssinia, December 7, 1926. DMNS No. IV.BA26-180.

We climbed 1,300 feet above the river to a plateau ridge of dead sheikhs, including that of prior ruler Sheikh and followed a well-marked trail, finally making camp Hussein, placed in a cemetery with a white gateway. in a picturesque spot near a spring with little water. That The people kept the tombs whitewashed and in good evening I noted that: “We had an exciting fight today order. Near our camp was a school, and the youngsters between a mule driver and the cook, which we stopped assembled outside in the shade with their instructor as before anyone was killed, though clubs and stones were they chanted from the Koran. Groups of men sat about, prominent features of the combat. The Gallas living no doubt in deep solemn thought upon religious studies, nearby claim there is ‘multa ouri’ (much game) about, while passing by were many women carrying heavy and Jack saw a female lesser kudu.” water jars on their backs, their place among the Moslems Our camp was only a two-hour journey from the seemingly being the equivalent of pack animals. rather large Mohammedan village of Sheikh Hussein, a The people of the village were unfriendly and community of some 50 tukuls, stone mosques, and tombs uncooperative. They did not visit our camp and would

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not give us information regarding the trail ahead. One rather concentrated on setting traps for small mammals, friendly boy of about 12 hung about, however, trying to for no specimens from that area were in American get me to go hunting with him. We called him “gademps” museums. I noted December 13 that: “the flights of the (antelope) because he would thrust his arms upwards yellow-billed pigeons are beautiful to see, for they swirl like horns and say “tidlick gademps” (big antelope) as down the canyon in the forenoon and back in the evening, an inducement for one of us to follow him. Finally, I suc- just clearing the tree tops. The yellow-bills are large birds, cumbed to his smile and, with my gunbearer, started out more like domestic than wild ones.” I also wrote that day into the bush. We had not gone a mile when I saw the that: “Jack shot a bull greater kudu from a band of six, head of a male lesser kudu, one of the most beautiful of the rest being females.” African antelope. I could not be sure which way it was All in all, our stay at this camp was productive. standing because of the heavy brush, but I finally shot, Hyenas serenaded us each night, so our men had to keep and the animal disappeared. We all stood still, and a few a close watch to see that our mules were not molested, moments later, a head appeared not far away. Again, I and numerous birds not observed previously were col- shot low, and it seemed that the antelope fell. I walked lected. Our men came back from Ginir December 18 toward where the last shot was fired, and out from the with two mules, salt for our specimens, and food for all heavy cover bounded a beautiful kudu, and although hands, so camp was broken the following morning. I I’m a poor marksman at running game, my specimen recorded in my journal: fell. As I turned the animal to see if it had been hit pre- viously, there came a shout from Allamayu. I had also December 19: We left our camp near Sheikh dropped the two others—three lesser kudu males almost Hussein’s mountain at 8:00 and followed a within sight of camp! I was ashamed to return, for one well-marked trail through the bush toward of the cardinal rules of museum collecting is to see that Luku, crossing two steep canyons via cir- associates share in the securing of game. Fortunately, my cuitous routes, often the course being very companions had ample opportunity later. precipitous. The canyon cut into the plateau That evening, after attending to the kudu, Baum country abruptly, the slopes usually densely and I took a walk into a nearby ravine, a veritable canyon grown with impenetrable scrub or thorn. where at least 200 very tame hamadryas baboons were Some of the hills were beautiful, for there working along the walls. We saw dik-dik, warthogs, were great masses of yellow, aspen-like trees, including one great old tusker, and a female kudu, all which reminded us of Colorado in October. within easy range had we desired additional specimens. The distant Wabe escarpment showed blue The men broke camp, and the caravan straggled for on the left, while great masses of thornbush an hour along the trail to the village of Luku the afternoon were ever before us with but few clearings of December 11. We rounded a rugged mountain named evident. We passed many bands of Mussul- for Sheikh Hussein, who, according to legend, had built men on their way to Sheikh Hussein’s to it in one night, and pitched our tents in a wide ravine pray at the religious festival, and occasional where there were water and good feed for the mules. We groups were resting under trees, chanting sent Ashagri and half a dozen armed men south some their praises of Allah. It made us really seem 50 miles to obtain food for our outfit and to purchase in a foreign country. We have three sick men, several mules as replacements for sore-backed beasts and the second contingent of our pack train which could no longer carry packs. took the wrong trail and did not get in till The next week was spent in this attractive location almost dark. Camp was made on a hilltop at as we awaited their return, and both Baum and Cutting a small waterhole, the only water within two secured kudus and other fine specimens. Wulda and I hours. It was a long, dry trail.

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In this desert country, we were seeing animals not December 21: We left camp on trek about previously encountered, including two snakes, one of which 9:00 and followed a good trail through I stepped upon, and I noted that I didn’t “know whether it rather heavy brush. Saw many camels was poisonous or not, but scared enough anyway.” Cutting feeding on Acacia berries. Passed through and I saw our first gerenuks in pretty, Acacia-covered plain Luku, a rather neat collection of Galla country, and though they had seen us, they stood staring, tukuls surrounded by a boma of prickly while we approached closely. Our trail December 20 was a pear, and went on half-hour or so to a well-marked one through good game country, numerous series of springs—“the oasis of Luku,” as gerenuk being seen, some on their hind legs as they reached we dubbed it [Fig. 3.39]. Here the Galla up to browse on leaves and twigs of the Acacia-like growth. herdsmen bring their flocks from miles Our camp that evening near a small waterhole around for water, the men, women, and was visited by spear-carrying Gallas, friendly people who children sharing the burden. The wells, or said there were numerous zebras in the vicinity. They springs, are fenced to keep the cattle out, were correct, for the next morning we saw many of the and men were constantly dipping water beautiful animals, the large Grévy’s zebra, three bands for the fine-looking humped cattle, and of gerenuk, and numerous birds new to us. I recorded women carried water jars on their heads. events of the next three days at some length. There were magnificent euphorbias and

Figure 3.39. Enclosed spring under wide-spreading branch of a fig tree, wells of Luku, Abyssinia, December 21, 1926. DMNS No. IV.BA26-003.

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fig trees, our camp being pitched under troughs. The men dipping water sing or chant the wide-spreading branches of the latter in unison as they lift the heavy gourds of water, species where it was cool even in the heat of and there is a constant milling of the great, the day. We photographed the picturesque placid beasts. The skin-clothed women are people constantly on the go and should more in evidence at the wells than elsewhere, have some good returns for our work. The for they are very shy, and one will usually see women were mostly bare breasted, and their but a glimpse of them as they peer from the clothes were of hides, for the most part [Fig. tukul door; but here they must stay by their 3.40]. Many of the men merely wore loin- flocks and cannot disappear into the bush cloths. They said there was no game except as they are wont to do when one encounters “multa neber” (many leopards) near here, them on trek. Then, the work of watering the and we will have to move to the southeast, beasts finished, the cattle are again taken to to more open country, for game. the grazing grounds far below, and all is quiet in the neighborhood of the watering places. Wonderful long-tailed paradise fly- catchers leave their places of concealment among the dense tropical foliage and flutter in and out among the branches of trees bordering the pool. The gray monkeys are soon chattering as they bounce from limb to limb and cautiously descend to the water’s edge—and as evening draws near, Neber, the leopard, slinks from the shadows to cool his parched throat. Ambassa, the lion, and Jib, the hyena, make their presence known throughout the night, for the wells have been turned over to the animals of the wild for their turn at the fountain of life. December 22: There was a riot of bird music near the wells this morning, the bulbuls being especially abundant. Went hunting this evening toward the open plains but did not get that far. Saw a “sala” or Oryx, a wonderfully Figure 3.40. Native woman dressed in fine fellow, but did not get a shot. Also saw a cowhide skirt, Ogaden desert, Abyssinia, kudu but too dark to see which species. There December 21, 1926. DMNS No. IV.BA26-220. are many open parks and quite a bit of heavy cover. I hunted with the mule but believe I’d The wells of Luku are the gathering have better luck without it. places of the Gallas for miles around, and December 23: We were up early, and I there are dust clouds to be seen far out on started out with Wulda and our Galla, who the plains where the natives are driving their led us along the trail; traveled south, much of flocks to water. Great clamor as the people keep the territory covered with tracks of zebra and their flocks apart, awaiting their turns at the Oryx, but we saw no game all morning. We

62 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 had a wonderful experience with an indicator bird, a guide to bee nests. It flew in a tree and clinked, or rather buzzed, at us; it was a little fellow, smaller than a robin, very finch-like in appearance, with a light, streaked belly, dark head, and red bill. The Galla boy waved his stick and talked Galla, and the bird flew chirping to another tree, while we followed. We went from tree to tree, with the buzzing bird leading the way; if we did not follow fast enough, he came back and alighted near us and started his conversation. Finally, he alighted on a dead snag and quit talking. The boys soon located the bee hangout, and our Galla proceeded to rob them, apparently oblivious to the swarming bees about his head. Wulda wouldn’t go near. There was but little honey in the first tree, and as the bird began its scolding, we followed again and, in a short distance, located a second Figure 3.41. Galla at bee nest shown to field bee tree. This was soon plundered, while our team by honeyguide indicator bird, south of little feathered guide sat in silence a short Luku, Abyssinia, December 23, 1926. DMNS distance away. The honey was very good and No. IV.BA26-020. was welcome, except that we had no water to clear our throats. An ample supply of honey coming from the four points of the compass, was left for the bird [Fig. 3.41]. undoubtedly directed by the flight of the We worked into a big valley where incoming buzzards. We carried the skin and game signs were very common and soon saw skull in on a pole, a heavy job, for the males a male zebra 100 yards or so away. He was are large-sized animals with very thick hides, quite conspicuous in that his stripes showed and we were at least ten miles from camp. A up and the light was good, but, all in all, I couple hours later, Wulda saw a band of Oryx, would say that Grévy’s zebras are extremely and I shot at about 150 yards and killed two, protectively colored in their surroundings of the bullet going through the first and hitting a brush. He was collected. smaller one in the neck. Wulda stayed with the I photo’d and measured, and then the animals, while the Galla and I started to camp, boys skinned him. Kobarro, the jackal, came presumably about 15 minutes away. The sun by to get his share of zebra meat; Cinereous was high in the sky when we started, and it Vultures were on hand, sitting about the was almost dark when we reached camp, for Acacia trees. Immediately we started away, the natives had headed too much to the east, they alighted on the carcass in such numbers and we were a long way from home when the as to completely conceal it from view, while Oryx were killed. Ashagri immediately sent a waiting list hung about the tearing mob three mules, men, and water, and food for awaiting its turn—and soon we saw jackals Wulda, so they should be back when the moon

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rises or early in the morning. Jack secured a port here. According to reports, it will take good male Oryx and a female lesser kudu, and two more days to the river and ten days to Suydam, a fine male zebra. So, we all had suc- Hawash—a long journey. Our grub (that is, cessful hunts and the collection increased as luxuries) is about gone. Wulda was kicked in well. I shot a female gerenuk for food for the the face by a mule and laid out cold. Mohammedans at the request of my Galla boy. I was dead tired on reaching camp, for I was Our journey the next day was northeast over a out on the hot plains for 11 hours traveling well-marked trail along ridges—without a guide, as no hard and without a drop of water. one would go with us, all being afraid to return alone because of bandits. The rolling country, well covered Wulda and the other men returned with the zebra with grass, seemed ideal for game, but only one Oryx was and Oryx specimens after midnight, and he reported seen. Camp was made at an altitude of 5,300 feet near hyenas coming close to him while waiting for the springs and waterholes in a broad valley wooded with arrival of the pack mules. I was content in the morning picturesque euphorbias. to wander only a short way from camp, but Baum and All the mules were becoming travel weary, many Cutting hunted for several hours, both taking nice speci- having sore backs. Several gave out on the trail as we mens of Oryx and gerenuk. resumed our journey, and headman Ashagri, the cook, Baum was writing articles covering our experi- and the interpreter had to walk, the latter saying, “I get ences for the Chicago Daily News and had sent couriers tired easily.” The trail took us through groves of euphor- to Addis with his copy from Sheikh Hussein on December bias where crested turacos were giving their cat-like calls, 10. The men made good time, for they returned the then abruptly down the haze-filled valley cut by the Wabe afternoon of December 24 saying they had seen two Shebele some 2,000 feet below (Fig. 3.42), finally reach- lions, had been treed by hunting dogs, and had traveled ing stream level at 2,700 feet, some 900 feet lower than mostly at night because they were afraid of the Gallas. our upper crossing. Camp was pitched in a beautiful spot, They brought mail from home, the most recent dated and all of us had a swim. Ashagri had been exceedingly November 10, and I recorded: “It makes an appropriate nervous throughout the day, repeatedly warning us to ‘Night before Christmas’ to hear from my loved ones and stay with the caravan because of fear of shiftas. know all is well with them.” After breakfast the next morning, the ford across Our camp near Luku was in the heart of good the Wabe, known locally as “Warta,” was easily made, game country, and on Christmas and the day following, the water being only belly deep on our animals, but the we saw many animals collected, fine museum specimens trail out of the canyon was so precipitous and the mules of Oryx, Grévy’s zebra, gerenuk, and lesser kudu. so tired that all of us walked. We made 800 feet during the first hour, winding back and forth along the moun- December 27: Our water supply was tainside with a deep chasm running at right angles to the exhausted, so camp was broken early. The Wabe, its dry streambed showing white. day was very hot; temperature last night was Two of the pack mules gave out and were aban- 37 degrees as against 87 degrees at midday. doned with the hope some Gallas would pick them up. The Wabe showed up blue in the distance. After reaching the plateau, the course was due north for Our guide led us in an easterly direction over hours over an almost level plain, and finally, in the early rolling hills that might well have been along afternoon, we came to the head of the canyon mentioned the Hudson. Passed a few neat villages and above as running at a right angle to the Wabe. There was camped at a series of springs called “Kukero,” a large pool far below our camp, evidently a main water- well wooded. There is an Abyssinian customs ing place, for several caravans were camped near us.

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Figure 3.42. Distant walls of Simien Mountains, Abyssinia, hazy in early morning light. DMNS No. IV.BA26-174. As riding and pack animals were exhausted, they walking at an angle to them. They ran toward were rested the last day of 1926, and my notes mention: Cutting, who bowled one over at a dead run, a female with 28-inch horns, a beautiful trophy. Our camping place, Gabra Itale, also called Jack also got one, so there is plenty of meat in “Boke,” is really a deep canyon with the water camp. I turned back on hearing Suydam shoot far below the plain. The trees are scattered since I felt sure we now had meat. Jack saw and do not make good shade, but there are one herd of 30 or more. This evening, several many of them. The canyon walls are very came within 100 yards of camp. Birdlife very steep and badly weathered and are the homes scarce and small mammals more so, so I had of hamadryas baboons. I saw a large band difficulty getting my daily quota. this forenoon, among them being mothers with babies on their backs. Allamayu and We started the New Year of 1927 by heading in a I went out in the forenoon, and we saw two generally northwest direction toward Hawash, finding Oryx; I stalked within 200 yards by simply a good trail over a level plain through country that

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answered well my idea of what African game fields should trails, and he deserted during the night, and no one be like. The thorn trees were small and sparsely located, so would volunteer to show us the way toward Hawash. the expanse looked like a great grass-grown pasture with Consequently, our headman seized one of the locals, a few shade trees here and there. Early in the march, we tied him to one of our zabâniya (soldiers) and, through saw many Oryx—one band of at least 40 being right on our interpreter, explained that we were not enslaving the trail—and I took several snaps with the Graflex as him, that he would be paid. A howling mob formed, and they moved leisurely away. We saw a rhino, our first, in the we could have had trouble, but one old fellow stepped distance and attempted to stalk it, but the Oryx probably forward and offered to show us the trails. The captive was warned him, for he disappeared not to be seen again. turned loose, and the Gallas dispersed. The Galla villages were numerous, but they were Our way led past open, irrigated fields in which were not so well built as those seen below the Wabe and on little huts where natives stayed to protect their crops from Albasso. The houses were smaller and the bomas not game animals. There were magnificent trees and very so well made. Camels were common, doubtlessly due to dense vegetation. Many guerezas and small gray monkeys the long, waterless trails necessary to go from one place were seen. I noted: “Four large hornbills, similar to those to the other. Our trek was nearly four hours, and we at Luku Wells, seen as the caravan wound up from the encamped in a ravine with plenty of water below us. valley via a narrow ridge to a Galla village where there is The journey the second day of the year was north- water. The Gallas here seem more friendly, brought in a east over a well-defined trail, a very old caravan route, dozen or so chickens for barter, and our guide of today, numerous camels being seen, which were the chief beasts evidently intrigued with the Menelik dollar (50 cents) he of burden through the arid region. The three of us rode received, volunteered to continue with us.” ahead over a rather open plain sparsely grown with Acacia and Mimosa, looking ideal for game, though only January 5: Our camp last night was at a water- a few Oryx were seen. Camp was made among acacias ing place known as Arnoom. We left at 7:00 after a journey of five hours, and far below was a water- and followed over a very difficult rock trail hole known as “Bali” that necessitated our men leading for an hour before we had good going, then the mules down a very steep and narrow path. encountered several little Galla villages with Bali proved to be an excellent place for birds, considerable vegetation about. Saw one cotton for some of the thorn trees were fairly alive with small field. The women of these parts are dressed in species, and a large yellow-billed hornbill, not previously cloth garments as contrasted with the hide observed, was collected. Camp was broken early January 3, clothing worn by those near and below the and the caravan followed a poorly marked path through Wabe [Fig. 3.43]. The day’s march was through thick thorn scrub, devoid of big game, along the west side rather thick growths over a level plain, except of a high hill and then dropped into a valley where a small for two rocky ridges, finally coming out on stream, known locally as “Sagatta,” furnished irrigation a ridge with a wide valley stretching before waters for small, well-tilled fields grown with maize. My us. The clouds were massed about Chercher notes mention: “We had made camp after a ten-mile trek Mountains, and heavy shadows were thrown and had parched corn for lunch—a welcome addition to upon the plains on the opposite side of the our diet of meat. In the evening, walked a short distance valley. We crossed a small stream and followed from camp and collected three guerezas.” up another valley, making camp near a well- The Gallas of the vicinity were unfriendly and had travelled trail after nearly six hours of travel. tried to keep us from camping. Ashagri told them we were Saw no game. from Ras Tafari, and they shouted, “Menelik!” We had A Galla wedding took place down the had a Galla guide, a necessity because of the numerous valley, and there was considerable singing

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Figure 3.43. Galla women carrying water, near Arnoom, Abyssinia, January 5, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-209.

and shouting as the wedding party returned upon small clearings with native tukuls. The women with the bride and groom upon one mule, often were well dressed with silver ornaments in their the girl heavily veiled. The whole party hair and bright shawls over their shoulders, though they passed before Cutting’s camera. were caretakers of the herds of cattle. Finally, the trail led up a rocky ridge with great Our camp on the Serpiente River had been a fine boulders so close that the loads would not go through, one, and we were reluctant to leave. The men were up at necessitating the unpacking of the animals. One of the daybreak and soon started along a well-worn trail, but mules died, and many others were in bad shape, so with they had to watch carefully the numerous laterals that Allamayu accompanying me, I rode ahead for an hour caused the pack animals to wander. The natives assured to Bedesa in the hope of securing additional animals us we would reach the marketplace of Bedesa in three that I could send back. Unfortunately, none was avail- or four hours, but our mules were so tired they were able, but our pack train finally reached a camping place continually lying down and had to be forced on their at the edge of the village where we discovered, to our way. The valley was well cultivated with coffee groves. dismay, that one mule had been lost with a load of my The vegetation was dense, but as we rode along, we came valuable specimens.

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Bedesa was a small community with a row of rectangu- was made in a valley that was extensively farmed—corn, lar, tin-roofed stores and gray shops, a wide compound in wheat, and peas being grown. the center. We met five Greek and Armenian traders, who We left camp on foot January 10 with our riding proved very friendly. I recorded that night: animals packed, and the caravan made good time over an excellent trail up a wide valley with rather precipitous Court was in progress under a tree as I rode slopes. After four hours, the smoke of Gelemso village in, vociferous Gallas waving their arms and was sighted. The men pitched our tents along a little shouting as they tried to put their side of the stream not far from town, and Ashagri rode ahead to story across. Native tukuls skirt the business purchase mules. He returned bubbling over, for he had section, and as the town is near the main been promised ten the next morning at 7:00. Unfortu- Harar-Hawash trail, the stores undoubtedly nately, the men and mules did not put in an appearance do a good trading business in coffee. The as scheduled, and after delaying our departure, we were settlement is in a most beautiful valley with on trek late in the day, passing through Gelemso, where cloud-capped Chercher Mountains to the a market was being held. A fine campsite was found just northeast and high hills all about. We are at dusk. My notes for January 12 record: told there is considerable game a couple hours away and that we will see herds this Had a real night’s trapping last night. Just side of the Hawash River. at sundown, I put out a #3 within 50 feet of my tent along the stream and baited with Ashagri and several of the men slept out on the rats and birds. After supper, I found a genet mountainside where our mule was lost so they could hear in it. Fifteen minutes later, I had a jackal hyenas if they attacked the pack animal, but fortunately, and, this forenoon, a black civet. Wulda the beast was located, sound asleep in thick brush, my brought in six rats, and I took a few birds. specimens safe. There was great rejoicing in camp when The head Abyssinian of the district called the mule was brought in, which showed the men had felt on us with his two armed retainers and concern over the loss of the valuable load. Baum, Cutting, brought six mules and four burros, so we and I were so pleased we gave the men twenty dollars and were able to ride today. Made l6 miles to a our last bottle of rum that they might have a celebration. watercourse. Many people swarmed into Bedesa the following Our way led over an excellent trail morning to take advantage of market day, including where real grading has been attempted, the Abyssinians, Shankalas, and Gallas, the Galla girls with first we have found. Trail led down a valley buttered curls and silver hair ornaments being the most with great “hogbacks” on either side and picturesque. There were many itinerant merchants, deep, worn canyons. Many euphorbias. We who apparently worked from one market to another, dropped from 6,000 feet to 4,300. Did not each man having very little to sell. We remained for the get in until nearly 4:00. Beautiful campsite. day, hoping to buy some mules and secured two. When Peeled specimens until 10:00. Our camp is packing the next morning, the previous owner tried on the Boukra River, a small stream flowing to detain us, saying he would have five more “bukra” between steep banks with gigantic euphor- (tomorrow) and that we should wait, for water was far bias upon the crest. Just before reaching the ahead. However, we were anxious to be on our way, so river, we came in sight of Agoda Mountain, all riding mules were packed, and we trekked about six a landmark with many ragged crests like miles, crossing water four times! Guinea fowl were noted the bowl of a blown-out volcano, beyond en route and numerous specimens were taken. Camp which lies Hawash.

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Figure 3.44. Up the Hawash with camels, near Hawash railroad station, January 16, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-255.

After a day’s rest along the Boukra River, a produc- dinner was not as good as we have in camp.” tive site from the standpoint of collecting specimens, we The next morning, January 15, was spent hiring had an early start and climbed to a ridge where there was camels, and we became acquainted with a German, a fine view of the Hawash valley, a mountain with a notch Alexander Heis, who had been over much of Abys- in its crest conspicuous in the distance and reminding us sinia studying the people and the country. He had just of Abul Kasim of the Wabe valley. On a nearby plain were returned from up the Hawash and offered to accompany many Gallas, all herdsmen with flocks of goats and sheep, us. With Heis, our personal boys riding mules and six their homes rather crudely made. After a couple of hours, pack camels (Fig. 3.44), we started the next morning we reached the little railway town of Arbil, where we loaded along the Hawash River over an open plain to the right into a baggage car equipment we needed for a planned side of Metehara Mountain, and en route we saw gazelles and journey and, with our personal boys, interpreter, and a pair a large band of hartebeests. of our best men, boarded the train, sending the caravan in While the caravan moved along, Allamayu and charge of Ashagri on its way to Addis Ababa. I hunted a few yards to one side and jumped a striped After many weeks in the saddle and often walking hyena and a leopard. The latter was in tall grass. I caught when we had to pack our riding animals, it was a luxury a glimpse of something moving to my right and thought to bounce along at a speed of 15 miles an hour. Hawash it a small antelope. I ran toward it, thinking the animal station was reached at 5:30, and I noted in my journal: would slink away before it could be identified, and was “It was nice to sit down at a table with linen on it, but the surprised, to say the least, when the beautiful spotted cat

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Figure 3.45. Hawash River falls, Abyssinia, January 16, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-248. bounded away from less than 15 feet of me, disappearing hartebeests, bushbucks, and waterbucks. In the morning in the grass at every leap, giving just a brief glimpse of his of the second day, in an open wooded area, I jumped a spotted back at each bound. A wonderful animal, and I was band of 20 or more dog-faced baboons. As we needed thankful he chose to go away instead of attacking. specimens, a female was collected and, to my dismay, The shores of the Hawash were followed through I found a very small young clinging to her undersides. bush country that looked ideal for game, but only five Fortunately, the baby was not hurt. Our caravan men female lesser kudu and three waterbuck were seen, were delighted, for they had wanted a pet, and said they although there were many birds new to me. After a journey would call it “Tinish” (little). We were a little concerned of about 15 miles, camp was made along the river at the how we would care for the baby baboon, but Allamayu base of the waterfall, which Heis claimed to be unnamed. solved the problem by turning the animal over to a There was a series of eight cascades, each about 75 feet ten-year-old boy named Zeleka (Fig. 3.46), who was the in height. Great moss-covered boulders at the foot of the cook’s helper. The youngster agreed to let Tinish sleep abrupt drops caused water to be thrown in all directions. with him, the financial arrangement being that we would I shot many still photos, and Suydam took movies in the pay one piastre a week, the equivalent of three cents. In late afternoon light to record the area (Fig. 3.45). days to come, the little dog-face became one of the most Three additional days were spent at this campsite, interesting characters of our caravan, after being tied on and many game animals were noted—lesser kudu, a pack animal during each day trek (Fig. 3.47).

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Figure 3.46. Zeleka, a slave boy, with Tinish on shoulder, Abyssinia, January 16, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-192.

Figure 3.47. Tinish atop pack mule, Abyssinia, January 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-257.

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Late that evening of January 18, in moonlight, Harold (Babe) White, a former football player from Syra- Jack, Suydam, Heis, and I walked along the shores of cuse University, and George Carey of Baltimore. They had the Hawash and then sat down by a hippo hauling-out been in Chicago just a short time before and had talked place, and my notes record: “Soon we heard an explosive with Stanley Field. Both had hunted previously in Abys- ‘shoosh’ and then saw three hippos swimming with their sinia, White being such a large man that local mules were eyes just out of water. They hung about, wiggling their too small for him, so Ras Tafari had loaned “Babe” (as ears and making the water fly. Occasionally, one would all large men seemed to be called) his personal, very fine raise his snout out of water, and only then could we animal. On a trip to the Arussi Mountains, White secured realize their great size. They are enormous brutes.” a record head of the beautiful nyala. Our last day along the waterfall was productive in The morning of January 22, we heard that Danakil that interesting museum specimens were collected—two (desert people on the border of Somaliland) had raided lesser kudu, which “appeared very dark about the head a village near Metehara during the night and had taken and neck, with white markings showing prominently. The 30 women and children. Later, when the train passed animals were in an open park in a beautiful setting. Also through the village, we saw many people in a compound, took a dik-dik. This evening, as I was setting the flash as well as herds of camels near the town. camera near camp, a fine waterbuck came within 20 feet, It was an enjoyable trip to Addis Ababa for the five a beautiful animal in the half-light, reminding me of an Americans. At Mojo we had a brief visit with Fritz Ehm elk. It bounded away and was out of sight in a moment.” and, on reaching Addis, found Osgood and Fuertes at the I had turned the little dik-dik over to one of my station. They had arrived the night before, which was most careful skinners as such a small antelope needed making good connections considering our two months special attention. When he brought it to me for inspec- of travel in different directions over difficult terrain. We tion, he grinned and rubbed his stomach, saying “tinish, had collected 960 specimens compared with their 850. tinish.” I realized he was trying to tell me there had been Both men were in the best of health and spirits, but an embryo and called the interpreter, who verified my little game had been seen, and the only large mammals belief. On inquiry as to what he had done with the unborn secured were a few hartebeests. young, he said he had thrown it in the river! Immediately we searched the shores and found where the current had Addis Ababa, January 22–February 7, 1927 lodged the beautiful little ten-inch animal behind a rock. As previously, Louie and I shared a hotel room, and we had It was perfectly formed and unscarred. The specimen was enjoyable exchanges of experiences. On one occasion, as saved and now is in a habitat group with an adult male we were lounging beside a little writing desk, he was telling and female in the fine African Hall of the Field Museum me of the monkeys encountered in bamboo forests some- of Natural History, probably the only specimen of a baby where along the way. After giving me a verbal description, dik-dik on exhibition in any museum. he wound up saying, “Why, Bill, they are the damnedest Numerous herds of gazelles, beautiful little crea- things,” and pulling over a piece of drawing paper on the tures looking from a distance like pronghorn antelopes, desk, he picked up his watercolor brush and, in just a few were noted as we retraced our steps toward Hawash, Alla- moments, made an excellent sketch of one, showing the mayu carrying Tinish on his shoulder, the baby baboon brilliantly marked rear end. Some time later, when writing sleeping most of the time with head resting on my gun- my longtime friend F.W. Kent at the University of Iowa, I bearer’s neck. The rail station was reached in the early enclosed the painting which, after Louie’s death such a afternoon. We paid off our camel men, loaded our riding short time after getting back home, my friend returned to mules and baggage on a freight car for shipment to Addis, me, the only Fuertes original which I possess (Fig.3.48). and then checked in at the hotel. That evening, the train (Unfortunately, Louis did not initial the drawing, but I arrived from Djibouti, and aboard were two Americans, have it framed and have inscribed details on the back.)

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Figure 3.48. Sketch of Rift Valley monkey drawn from memory by Louis A. Fuertes, Addis Ababa, Abyssinia, January 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-128.

The next three days were busy ones, packing We became well acquainted with Mr. Rey, and on specimens in tin-lined boxes for shipment to Chicago; a visit to his home, I commented I had just received consulting with Mr. Bentinck, the British Consul, regard- a letter from my wife that mentioned a travel book ing permits for us to cross the Egyptian Sudan by motorcar covering Abyssinia under some such title as “Over after the conclusion of our northern trek; and arranging the Ridges.” Rey chuckled and said that the author for extensive fieldwork in Abyssinia’s northern provinces. had called on him in Addis to say how much he was We attended a party in our hotel for the children indebted to Rey for information in his history that he, of Ras Tafari given by Mrs. and Mr. Rey, the latter the the author of the travel book, had taken the liberty author of an outstanding history of Abyssinia. (Rey of using in his own report. Rey expressed surprise, 1924) (Included in the gathering was the Ras’s eldest saying, “Why, you have just arrived in the country.” To son, who, after Ras Tafari became emperor, was named which the man replied, “Oh, I wrote the book before Crown Prince Asfaw. Years later, in December 1960, I came.” he was seized in an uprising when the Emperor was The five of us and White and Carey were invited in Brazil, the rebels using Prince Asfaw’s name in an to the home of Ras Tafari and his wife for tea the after- effort to gain the support of the people. It was a short- noon of January 27 so that we could obtain motion and lived revolt—over after 36 hours of machine-gun and still photos. It was a pleasant, informal call; the Ras mortar fire, and considerable bloodshed.) and his wife, Woizero Menen, met us in the reception

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Figure 3.49. Ras Tafari, his wife Woizero Menen Asfaw, and A.M. Bailey at Queen’s palace, Addis Ababa, Abyssinia, January 27, 1927. Photograph by Jack Baum. DMNS No. IV.BA26-150. room where tea was served. Then we went outside from Sweden, and several Abyssinians. Had a very where the light was still good on the verandah, and good dinner, with a poor movie afterward furnished the Ras and his wife posed for photos. Suydam took by the Japanese.” movies, and I, stills—and later we were pleased with Tinish had been in the keeping of Allamayu at his the results, I especially, for Jack Baum made a distant home, and one of the pictures I have in memory, after the shot showing me on the steps with my Graflex with the baboon was returned to us at the hotel, is of Louie sitting royal couple (Fig. 3.49). with Tinish lying contentedly spread-eagled, belly down, The Ras was interested in our proposed northern on Fuertes’ knee, as the great artist, with tweezers, picked itinerary and admired the paintings that Fuertes had cooties from the little animal. brought along so as to give some idea of the work During the following week, I was busy packing involved in securing paintings of Abyssinian birds. specimens—27 cases in all—the majority to be shipped The one most admired was of a beautiful trogon. Later by Mr. Hall to Djibouti to catch a German steamer on Louie made a copy and personally presented it to the February 14, and personal trunks to be sent by Colonel Ras. Apparently, we were getting used to meeting with Sandford to Khartoum, so that we would have present- royalty, for on February 2nd I noted only briefly in my able clothes for our trip down the Nile to Cairo as we journal: “Last night we had dinner with Ras Tafari started the return home. along with seven other Americans, a Japanese, two

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Northern Trek, February 8–May 2, 1927 the night along the Dunaba River, a small meandering Our tentative plans called for the five of us, with our stream that flowed through a wide valley of the plateau. men, horses, pack mules, and a hired négadi to carry In my notes, I recorded: additional loads, to head up Entoto Hill and on over the plateau to Sandford’s ranch at Mulu on the brink of the February 10: This morning at daybreak there Muger canyon. Crossing the Muger, we would climb to was a great clamor as hundreds—one might the plateau to the north, then drop down the canyon of say thousands—of the beautiful cranes the Abay River (Blue Nile), cross the river at a shallow started their morning trek to distant feeding ford, and ascend into the Province of Gojjam, where a grounds. They flew low in the dim light, flock powerful chieftain, Ras Hailu, had the power of life and after flock sailing off into the dark west, each death over 2,000,000 or 3,000,000 people. Both Mr. Rey bird calling to others in the rear. Upland and Colonel Sandford assured us we would receive a geese were abundant on all the little ponds, welcome from the Ras, said to be the most powerful in and yellow-billed ducks and what I took to be Abyssinia after Ras Tafari. wigeons were also seen. We had been delayed and wanted to make good We made a short trek over the Gorgias time on this last leg of our trip, so we thought we Plateau, named for Gorgias Church upon would shake hands with the Ras at his headquarters at the hill, and on to Sandford’s at Mulu and Bichena and then go on our way—Osgood and Fuertes had tea. The strawberry season is still at its to the left on the west side of Lake Tsana and on to height. They have berries the year-round Gallabat on the Egyptian-Sudan border, while Cutting, and we more than feasted upon the delicious Baum, and I would keep to the right over trails not pre- fruit. I can truthfully say this is the most viously followed by Americans to the east of Lake Tsana delightful spot we have seen in Abyssinia, to the ancient city of Gondar and up into the Simien with the wonderful Muger canyon before us Mountains to collect Abyssinian ibex, which were not and the heights of Gojjam across the valley. represented in any American museum. We would then They raise many strawberries and send much drop down from the walia country and go west, hoping butter to Addis, but the cattle of this country in two months’ time to join Osgood and Fuertes for are poor milk producers. the crossing of the Egyptian-Sudan to Khartoum. All February 11: We left Mulu at 9:15 after went as planned, except that instead of a brief pause a hectic time getting packed up. A hired en route, the hospitable Ras Hailu kept us for a week, négadi [Fig. 3.50] accompanies us with one of the most interesting interludes of our journey about 60 mules, 12 of which are packed with throughout Abyssinia. our boxes. Rode over the beautiful Acacia- After a hectic day, February 8, trying to get our covered plain, with high mountains to the caravan on its way from Addis, the men reluctantly right and the great Muger canyon to our started our 51 pack mules and those of the hired négadis left. Saw the place where I lost my geladas up Entoto Hill late in the afternoon. Camp was made at three months ago. Louie killed a wild cat. 10,000 feet on a windswept, barren knoll. We were on I saw it first, commented on the protective our way at 9:00 the next morning, traveling over the coloration in both sunlight and shade, and same route Fuertes and I had covered in October en thought it was a domestic animal. It was very route to Sandford’s ranch, but where we had seen grass tame. When we began to skirt the canyon of waist high. Now, the same plains were barren, the Gallas the Muger, we saw a large troop of gelada having cut the vegetation for the Addis market. Several baboons. The trail winds down the precipi- camel caravans were noted en route, and we stopped for tous cliff where it seems impossible for a trail

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to go, and it is an excellent one, all things specimens. Six of our mules were so fatigued they could considered. There are some wonderful fig not make the climb up the cliffs of the Muger with packs, trees near a spring. We are camped along the and two were abandoned.” Muger, which is a very small stream here. No dense forests as often border these tropical February 13: Heavy rain last night. Collected streams. We had to discharge our interpreter, a few birds in the forenoon. Did not leave on who proved wholly unreliable. trek until 9:45 and traveled for three hours only as we wanted the mules to have an easy day. Trail followed along the Muger. Passed a great thumb-shaped pinnacle in the valley, which serves as a landmark for miles around. The rolling country was covered with the red- flowering “century plants,” and we passed some majestic olive trees. Many Acacia trees were in flower. Camped in a broad valley near the Muger River in Selale province, according to the boys. They also tell us there is a beauti- ful waterfall below here. Jack shot a duiker; Louie, a few birds; and I stayed in camp. Prepared 14 specimens. Caught an Otomys, which Osgood believes undescribed. February 14: Wulda caught two fine jackals this forenoon. Suydam and I took a walk to the edge of the Muger canyon, fol- lowing down a beautiful little watercourse to where it trickled over the precipice a few hundred yards below. Several natives Figure 3.50. Ahmed, a hired negádi, Mulu, adopted us and offered to show us “jingero” Abyssinia, February 11, 1927. DMNS No. (baboons). They took us to where we could IV.BA26-207. look down into space and pointed out a herd of dog-faced baboons. We then followed along The Muger valley was a couple miles wide with the edge, passed a village, our following of precipitous walls near the crest, and the river was so Gallas continually increasing until we had shallow we had no trouble fording the morning of the the whole village at our heels. I collected a 12th and climbing to the plateau, where we traveled yellow-legged francolin and a Procavia, and through excellent agricultural country. The Gallas grew Suydam got into a band of gelada and secured corn and barley and had large fields of peas. In my notes, a fine male and female. There were many with I recorded: “There were great patches of red-leaved young. Saw a klipspringer also. ‘century plants’ with branching stalks of red flowers. We On trek by 8:45, we followed a well- camped in a wide valley with high hills ahead; there is marked trail northwest. The Muger canyon excellent forage for the animals and a wealth of mammal occasionally showed on the left, and broken signs. Wulda caught ten Arvicanthis this afternoon country dropped away at our right. We and Allamayu, a black mongoose, while I prepared 12 traveled over a flat plain with rolling hills

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on which were wonderful olive and a few mountainside, the mules making their way slowly, scram- cedar trees. We were reminded of an English bling from one turn to another. After two difficult hours, a landscape, to a great extent, and whiled broad bench about halfway down the canyon was reached away the time as we rode, laying out golf at about 6,500 feet elevation, where the tents were pitched courses! We passed many villages, all typical near a foul-smelling waterhole. of the highland country except that many The crossing of the Blue Nile was a journey of three had bomas of Eucalyptus and occasionally days. The hired négadi and our men were astir at 3:00 Euphorbia. Many caravans were also seen, the morning of the 17th. We had tea at 4:00, breakfast mostly Gallas carrying hides on pack horses. at 5:00, and were on trek at 6:00, just at break of day. I We trekked about five and a half hours to a recorded: great grass-grown valley where several other outfits were already encamped. We expect to It seemed like fall as we followed along the reach the bank of the Nile tomorrow. trail, for it was still cool, and the decidu- ous trees were losing their leaves. The last The trail on the 15th was over an open plain with 1,000 feet into the Nile were very steep. Saw well-cultivated fields, through occasional villages that several yellow-headed parrots, barbets, and were similar to those of the Arussi Gallas. Many caravans bee-eaters, the latter beautiful green fellows from Gojjam were met, the mules loaded with hides, and with blue-and-yellow throats. As we came with one was a Greek trader who reported game plentiful upon the shingle beach along the river, we between Gondar and Gallabat on the Egyptian-Sudan flushed a few knobbed and Egyptian geese. border. We finally reached the village of Guhazion, the A kingfisher poised in the air and dropped home of Dejazmach Balcha, which had a telephone con- headfirst into the water, and a small croco- nection with Addis, but our efforts to get through were a dile slid noiselessly from the beach into the failure. Camp was made a mile or so beyond in a wide Nile. It was still dark along the river, for the valley that sloped off into the Abay where several other sun had not climbed high enough to break caravans were also encamped, their animals tired after the shadows. Our hired négadi made the first the strenuous climb up from the river. crossing, all his mules being brought close We were slow getting underway next day as we together and the passage made en masse to wanted our buckalos (mules) to have time to graze before keep the crocodiles away. the start of the coming difficult trek. A customs point was Our animals were late in getting down passed only after a row, the Abyssinian in charge trying the tortuous trail. Cutting’s riding mule threw to keep our permit, and another tried to grab my Win- him when he was encumbered with his hand chester, which our interpreter’s slave, Barassamus, was movie, but fortunately, neither he nor the carrying. It was the usual holdup, but they failed to get camera was injured. Our crossing was made any money from us, for our threat to report them to Ras without incident, the boys firing a few guns, Tafari solved the difficulty. needlessly, to keep away the crocs. The ascent The trail down the cliffs into the valley of the up the Gojjam side equally precipitous, and a Blue Nile dropped abruptly. We were confronted with a couple of mules gave out in the climb. We were great chasm, the bottom dark blue in shadow, while the on the trail five hours. The river was at 3,400 opposite heights of the Province of Gojjam were dim, a feet, according to our barometer, and our camp light-lavender-colored escarpment with a series of bench is at 6,100 feet. Yesterday’s camp, halfway down levels and knife-like ridges. The trail was the same as in the mountain, is called “Medroada” and the days of old, a rocky tortuous drop down the precipitous ford across the Nile is “Shefurktuk.” Tonight’s

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Figure 3.51. Field party camp on north bank of the Blue Nile. Abyssinia, February 17–18, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-241. stopping place is on a wide bench that is February 18: We climbed out of the Blue intensively cultivated and is called “Cruar” Nile canyon today (my 33rd birthday). It was [Fig. 3.51]. There are several springs scattered very warm this forenoon, and the flies were over the mountainside with wide-spreading fig bad. Owing to a rain during the night, we had trees near each. Many quail and guinea about. a late start and did not get on trek until 9:00; Osgood collected a Procavia. the trail was the usual winding, precipitous Ras Hailu, the big chieftain of Gojjam, path up the steep walls, and we climbed, in had asked the people here to keep watch for two and a half hours, from 6,100 to an even us. It seems he expected us to cross the river 8,000 feet at the top of the escarpment. Made tomorrow under the protection of zabâniya camp a mile beyond the top, still in sight of the (soldiers), which he furnishes to caravans to canyon, in a shallow valley with large acacias. protect them from shiftas (robbers). Zabâni- Many white-winged pigeons about, and we yas are furnished on Sundays, Wednesdays, saw three large flocks of cranes. Ground and Fridays; other days people cross on their hornbills feed in sight of camp, and there are own responsibility. a few duiker in the long grass. Allamayu shot

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four interesting Procavia, which Osgood says three hours, our trail dropped into a valley where the differ from those he took at our last camp men pitched the tents near a swift-flowing stream, the 2,000 feet below here. Saba River, our guide explaining we could reach Bichena in three more hours of travel. A runner came to our camp early next morning The next few days stand out in memory as high- saying that Ras Hailu had sent him to welcome us and lights of our Abyssinian journey. The well-marked trail to guide us to Bichena, the new capital of Gojjam. We was over a level plateau grown with fine fields of barley were finally on our way northward over a rolling plain, and with high, cloud-capped mountains at our left. making quite a showing with more than 100 mules and Several churches, surrounded by the usual groves of horses as the steep-walled Blue Nile canyon was skirted. Eucalyptus and Acacia, were passed. We crossed a small There were numerous small villages of just a few neat river by way of a fragile brush bridge without any of our tukuls (Fig. 3.52), each surrounded with stone bomas. pack animals falling through, finally coming to a small The people appeared prosperous, their houses being in village on a high ridge. Our guide disappeared behind good repair and their cattle in excellent condition. A a tukul and, in a short time, returned dressed in an large church almost hidden in a forest of Eucalyptus immaculate shamma. was passed, and there were extensive fields of barley, His change of clothing should have warned us, indicating that the plain was ideal for agriculture. After but a short time later, after topping a small hill, we

Figure 3.52. Native tukul and cattle, Gojjam, Abyssinia, February 19, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-013.

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were amazed to see an assembly of about 500 soldiers February 21: Collected a few specimens in white, all mounted on fine horses and awaiting our and worked about camp till 11:00 when we arrival. They had been sent by Ras Hailu to greet us, “a mounted our mules and, escorted by all our touch of Arabian nights and medieval splendor.” I noted boys with all the guns they could muster, we in my journal: rode up the ridge to lunch with Ras Hailu. He is rebuilding the old town of Bichena, The sun reflected from the white shammas the home of his father and his grandfather, of the natives, and the reed and trumpet which has become ruined through neglect, as band gave us Abyssinian music; the soldiers he expressed it. The site of the town is a mar- came to attention, the five of us dismounting velous one, for it is on a high hill overlooking and shaking hands with the headmen. The the Abay. The sky was cloud-filled, while the musicians and about 100 zabâniya led the valley seemed a mass of peaks and ridges, way, and at our rear followed many local all agleam in the bright light, except for chieftains—our gun-bearing syces proudly occasional cloud shadows here and there. It strutting alongside each of us—the caravan was market day, and we rode by the different straggling far behind. It was a great turnout as products for sale, similar to other markets we marched slowly over the plain to Bichena except that here were muleloads of salt bars, where we were escorted to a large tent, the the money of the countryside. A few dollars’ floor being covered with oriental rugs. We worth makes a muleload! We passed through made ourselves comfortable while lunch was a narrow gate with a courtyard in which were being prepared and our tents were erected two rows of soldiers. Riding on, we came nearby. We sent our greeting to Ras Hailu by into another courtyard with a great fig tree, our guide, and soon natives began to trickle its wide-spreading branches throwing long in with gifts of tej, beer bread, chickens, eggs, shadows. Another line of soldiers brought and a large ox to be cooked for the men. their guns at attention, and then Ras Hailu

Figure 3.53. Ras Hailu and his retainers, Bichena, Abyssinia, February 21, 1927. Ras Hailu on mule at right. DMNS No. IV.BA26-093.

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Figure 3.54. Ras Hailu, near Bichena, Abyssinia, February 21, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-010. came out to greet us [Fig. 3.53]. He is a large, host a delightful man. After lunch, we took imposing-looking man with a fine, dignified a few pictures at the table, and then the Ras profile. He looks stern until he smiles. He put on his robes and posed in front of the tent asked concerning our journey and our treat- [Fig. 3.54]. Then he came into the courtyard ment en route, saying he had sent his soldiers and inspected his “troops” while we photo’d. to the Abay to welcome us to Gojjam but that The great clouds, Eucalyptus trees, tukuls, we had come to a different crossing. and all, with the white-robed natives, made We were led into a large tent with a real oriental scene of it. Finally, Ras Hailu a long, hand-hewn table on which were mounted his mule, and we photo’d, and then champagne, cognac, tej, and beer. We talked he rode through the marketplace. All in all, it at length, Ras Hailu asking many questions was a delightful day. We were escorted back to regarding America, showing keen interest and camp by the “band,” and they staged a dance a knowledge of the world. We had a strictly for our benefit, and a little baksheesh. The Abyssinian dinner with many courses of hot, usual loads of tej, bread, chickens, eggs, and seasoned dishes. Ras Hailu said we must eat three sheep were sent in as gifts. heartily to keep strong on the trail. We all February 22: Ras Hailu came for lunch enjoyed the lunch very much and found our at noon with a small following, and we had

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a very good feed, though a trifle too much a playful blow with a whip for keeping us waiting. Many rum was served. The Ras “took his liquor like priests were in the gathering, and one gave a mincing sort a gentleman,” and we all enjoyed him. He of dance and chanted as he led us to a nearby 100-year-old brought along a half-grown lion skin, which church, it being Virgin Mary’s Day. Many crude old religious one of his men had just killed. The Ras said, paintings were hung on the walls, front views representing “I was very angry with him for spearing the people of good virtue, while evil people were depicted from lion and put him in chains. He should have one side only. Priests, fantastically garbed, sang in Ge’ez, an caught it alive.” He told us his men catch ancient Semitic language, as they swung incense burners many lions, and one man caught six young and followed us from the church. in one day. Ras Hailu showed great interest in Ras Hailu was now accompanied by a group of America, and especially in getting a loan for about 30 attendants mounted upon excellent horses. Abyssinia to build roads and bridges! The young men were fine riders and made picturesque He told us that on his visit to England figures as they rode swiftly with raised spears, their snow- two years ago, he sat directly across the table white shammas flowing behind. Only about 100 of the at dinner from the King of England. King throng followed as we dropped down into a wide valley George, through an interpreter, asked him if where several reedbucks and oribi were jumped from he spoke English, French, German, or Italian, long grass, Hailu showing his skill as a marksman by and on the Ras’s reply in the negative, the bowling over one of the latter. King said it was too bad he could not speak All the people of a small village turned out to to Hailu directly. The Ras, on being granted welcome the Ras. They staged a dance, the men jumping permission to make reply, asked if the King and shooting their guns, while the women clapped hands could speak Amharic, Galla, Gurage, or and circled about. The natives evidently expected us, for Shankala, and on receiving a shake of the they had erected a tent in a grove of Eucalyptus where we head, the Ras said he too was very sorry he could be sheltered, and they brought refreshments—beer, could not dispense with the interpreter and bread, and hot meat sauce—and continued their dancing speak directly with the King! during the hour that lunch was served. We had the distinct We had rifle shooting, and Hailu impression that the people revered their powerful chieftain. proved a fine marksman with guns he knew According to plan, after returning to Bichena, we nothing about. With the shotgun, he killed divided our outfit so that Osgood and Fuertes could start six flying birds in succession (all being saved the next day toward the Egyptian Sudan, while the three as specimens). He offered us mules, money, of us were to head northeast into the high Simien Moun- and help, promising us letters to chieftains tains, and we would all meet some two months later at along the way. He stayed until 7:30 and, evi- Gallabat on the Egyptian-Sudan border. dently, enjoyed himself. Promised to go after Ras Hailu, with 50 or more retainers, headed for reedbuck with us on the morrow. the town of Dima in the early morning of February 24, where Cutting, Baum, and I expected to meet him. Our The guide arrived early in the morning, and the five men were slow getting away, but the final “so-longs” of us, with our gunbearers, followed the messenger through were said, and about noon we started ahead of our outfit the town and out on the plateau along a trail bordered by across a couple of deep canyons until we could see the excellent fields of wheat with isolated tukuls surrounded by village in the distance. Near Dima was a deep chasm that cattle. Ahead, we saw the Ras with about 1,000 followers, fell sheer for 1,000 feet and a small waterfall sent silver and as we neared, Hailu rode out to meet us. Our inter- spray into the depths, and along the walls were many preter, Dabba, was lagging behind, and Hailu struck him dog-faced baboons.

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Dima was a religious center for the teaching of The Ras picked up a good-sized hunk of raw meat, young priests, with different branches of learning—art held it against the four fingers of his left hand with and music, according to our interpreter, a young man his thumb, and then, with a slender knife, cut strips whom the Ras had loaned us. As we neared the village, Ras downward between the fingers and handed me the four Hailu, with a dozen of his horsemen (Fig. 3.55), rode out to pieces, along with the slender, ivory-handled knife as a meet us, and we then followed him to the church, a large souvenir. He did the same for Suydam and Jack, remark- circular building which was erected by his “ancestors” and, ing, “We eat with our hands, as they were intended we possibly, was 200 years old. There were some marvelous should, for the laborer works with his hands and also drawings of Christian martyrs, most of them being rather eats.” He said the raw meat festivals were greatly appre- muscular gentlemen, their head being held in the grasp ciated by his people, and that he often killed 300 beeves of some executioner. Great drops of blood usually were to feed his zabâniya. spilled over the foreground. Saint George and the Dragon, Our personal boys were standing behind each of us, as usual, held a prominent place. The crown of Ras Hailu’s and Suydam, eating with one hand and holding a glass father was kept in the church and was brought out on a of tej in the other, remarked that he wished he had three cushion by several gaily decorated priests to be photo- hands, to which the Ras replied, “You have four—yours graphed. We then went to a large tent in a compound in and your servant’s.” He then went on to explain that the which shelters had been erected where a raw meat festival eating of raw meat was not an ancient custom, for in the was given to commemorate the death of Ras Hailu’s father old days they cooked all their food. Then came an evil the year before. A couple thousand men, probably, ate raw king who captured the people and ran them into slavery meat, bread, and beer. Jack, Cutting, and I ate with the Ras whenever the smoke of their campfires revealed their and really enjoyed it, for we were extremely hungry. presence. Hence, they learned not to cook their meat.

Figure 3.55. Ras Hailu’s young attendants, Dima, Abyssinia, February 24, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-164.

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Many mendicant friars, swinging incense pots, enemy he had killed the lion and to prepare worked back and forth between the tables. One came to a feast, for he was coming to dinner next Hailu begging for alms, and after he left with a small day to celebrate. The enemy felt that peace gold piece, I remarked that there were many priests in was declared, or the Ras had surrendered, Gojjam, to which the Ras replied with a shake of his and they started dancing in celebration. The head, “Yes, too many.” Ras’s men attacked and killed them all. In the evening, he came to our camp to have February 26: We were up rather late this dinner with us, and although our négadis had failed to forenoon. Ras Hailu came to camp with a big appear with the mules loaded with kitchen utensils, we following, and we sat and talked for an hour had an enjoyable time, the chieftain telling us stories of while the men were packing up. He spoke of early days, which, unfortunately, I failed to record. We our friendship and how he wanted to come remained one more day at Dima, starting northward to America. Really seemed sincere in his plea- rather late the second day. I noted in my journal: sure at our having visited his country. He gave our men a talk and told them February 25: Ras Hailu spent the early hours to be careful, act slowly, obey, be generous and carrying stones to start his soldiers building a brave, to watch for brigands, and to always wall. It is customary nowadays for the Ras to look after our interests. They bowed as one begin all work. He told us that in the old days man, nearly touching the ground. The Ras his father did no work, nor ate in public. If the then shook our hands and rode away with his people did not do as told, he strangled them great following trailing at his heels—about or cut off their hands and feet. Ras Hailu says as picturesque a highland chieftain as one he has abandoned all the old practices. will see in these modern times. He asked for He came to our camp about 10:30 and a safety razor and sent a man on horseback brought us each a saddle mule and a present with us to Debre Werq so that I might give of a ring of virgin gold, mined in Gojjam. him mine. Our trail led through one great The mules were especially appreciated, as wheat field after another, uphill and down. ours are in bad condition. Occasionally, we passed little clusters of Cutting and I took a walk in the evening tukuls or herdsmen caring for flocks, and as and collected a few birds, including some of we rode through the villages, the youngsters the black wheatears. Ras Hailu returned in came out to gaze at us. We were able to give the evening for dinner and remained until our new riding mules a thorough test, and 9:00. We talked war most of the time. The they all seemed excellent, strong, fast-walking Abyssinians are laboring under the delusion animals. I was fortunate in getting a new that personal bravery will win wars, and as riding mule, for my other one is very sick. they are extremely warlike, they are likely After three hours, we came to Debre to suffer the consequences. The Ras said Werq, a picturesque town on a high knoll. they had munitions for eight years of war There are many stone granaries, and on the stored in depots, but he hardly is aware of summit of the hill, amidst a grove of cedar the present-day needs in warfare. He told of trees, is an ancient church. I asked the age his grandfather winning a war against great and received the reply, “It is older than man odds by suggesting that Christians should not remembers.” The priests had been informed take the blood of one another. That evening, of our coming by Ras Hailu as he wanted us a lion was killed by a soldier. The Ras told the to see the crown of his father who had ruled

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Gojjam before him. They were dressed in he shook his head sadly and said, “We in Abyssinia have their ceremonial robes and had the crown known for a long, long time that the world is flat.” on bright cloth. They made a picturesque Our course from Motta was directly north over gathering. Of even more interest was an old a level plateau to the canyon cut by the Abay, for it was stone building in which some of the priests necessary that we re-cross the river. The trail wound by lived, and there they dressed. An immense easy stages part way down the cliffs, and then it became hand-hewn door with polished stone led to a very precipitous, and we were glad to dismount and lead basement where there were many old books our mules into a narrow gorge. I recorded that it was not with parchment and sheepskin, which would necessary to ford the Abay, as we had previously; instead, be prized by any museum. there was “an old stone bridge, probably built by the Por- A great gathering of women in the tuguese, though it was repaired by Menelik and, later, by bazaar, bewailing the death of some relative. Ras Hailu (Fig. 3.56). The river has cut a narrow channel We camped on a grass-grown place at the foot through solid rock and is quite deep. The bridge is known of the hill upon which Debre Werq stands. to the natives as ‘Deldel Agomaha’ and is at an elevation of 4,400 feet. Saw a 14-foot crocodile, several bands of totas Our journey the next day was over rolling country (monkeys), and I secured turaco, new to the collection. We dotted with fine acacias, with unusual clouds over the climbed the north wall for 1,000 feet and made camp in a distant mountain range. The guide cautioned us to hot, fly-ridden place, though we had a beautiful view of the remain with the caravan and not wander off to hunt, Blue Nile canyon, which we figure to be 1,000 feet less in for shiftas had attacked travelers along our route eight depth than at our lower crossing. Our camp here is on the days previously and had killed three men. Camp was map and is called ‘Abala.’ Made up 12 bird skins.” pitched along a small stream a mile from a village, and The men had the caravan underway early on March the men celebrated the beginning of Lent by gorging 4, the mules straggling up the mountainside, the boys themselves, for during the next two months the Chris- leading our riding animals, while the three of us made tians were forbidden to eat meat, eggs, and butter, and the ascent on foot, and finally we reached the crest of to drink milk. However, we noted later they did not take the cliffs at 7,300 feet. A customs man of Ras Guksa met the restrictions too seriously. us under a giant fig tree but offered no difficulties. The The plateau country traversed March 1 reminded countryside was very rocky, the whole landscape being me of the prairie country of eastern Colorado border- covered with lava boulders, a most interesting terrain ing mountain ridges resembling the Front Range of the with only a few villages sprawled along sun-blistered hills Rockies. After four hours en route, the tents were placed with no shade evident. Our camp that evening was in a in a windswept valley near the town of Motta, which treeless valley but a good area in comparison with the had bazaar grounds nicely framed with wide-spreading terrain we had passed, for there were several waterholes fig trees. Jack, Suydam, and I visited the church said to which attracted a myriad of birds—White-winged Doves, have been built centuries before—the oldest in Gojjam Yellow-billed Mallards, and Egyptian Geese. —where we called upon the priests and talked at length through our interpreter with their leader Mamur Kumfu, March 5: Up at 6:30, as usual, and after a friendly, gray-bearded man, much interested in our breakfast, I hit the trail ahead of the pack travels. He said that he had met many Ferengis (Euro- animals. Collected a bustard and a Brown- peans), but we were the first Americans to visit him. I capped Shrike. The trail led over a rolling recall one of his questions and his comment afterward. country into a beautiful valley, which we He asked, “It is true, is it not, that you Americans believe followed toward the source. Passed a customs the world is round?” After we replied in the affirmative, man under a tree at a place known as Shimie

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Figure 3.56. Portuguese bridge near Gondar, Abyssinia. Photographer unknown. DMNS No. IV.BA26-246. and traveled on for half an hour farther. Saw Could see Lake Tsana in the distance, more totas and sent Allamayu after them. He ten or fifteen miles away. Trail dropped got three adult monkeys and a baby, all fine abruptly down the lake slope. There are specimens. Made up ten specimens. many people in this section, but they do not March 6: Off at the usual hour. No luck seem to raise much grain, for we have been with the traps. Our trail followed up a beau- unable to secure any for our mules. Passed tiful valley with a fine crystal stream, which a large church in the midst of a thick grove flowed swiftly over small falls, leaving deep and made camp in a wide valley along a shaded pools in places. Surprised one old crystal stream with numerous deep pools. Yellow-billed Duck with her brood of eight The natives use as a regular camping place young. Many small birds along the stream, and call it “Mahagey.” There are small fish in and at one place we saw two Secretarybirds. the stream, but the boys had no luck landing They walked rapidly away when we attempted them. Prepared 12 specimens. a stalk, but Allamayu made a detour and March 7: Continued over rolling collected one. We followed along the stream, country. Dropped down a precipitous hill, now on one side and now on the other, for with the church Mahdara Maryam off at three hours. Finally reached the summit of our right on a high, flat-topped hill with the ridge at 8,300 feet. a precipitous escarpment dropping to the

86 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 valley below. It is said to be a pretentious wanted us to camp after an hour-and-a-half’s church with many priests. Ahead appeared trek so he could procure us food. Our new broad valleys with small, conical peaks. The victualer appears on the job! We trekked four valleys are well populated, and we passed and a half hours, finally reaching the Lake many villages. The day’s travel was but a Tsana plain, a broad, treeless, level expanse repetition of the past few days, a labyrinth of that reaches to the lake, though we cannot small trails running in all directions, from see the water from our present camp. We are which we had to choose the correct one. We near a waterhole surrounded with palms at a are encamped on the Gumara River about 20 place called “Aurata Crogis” after the church miles from Lake Tsana at an altitude of 6,500 that is upon the hill. There is a small village feet. The stream is a small one with numer- nearby, and the head priest came down to ous deep pools. We had a swim and a haircut meet us. He promised to send provisions. We to celebrate the day. Collected a green heron; said, “No, we have plenty.” He replied, “But prepared 11 specimens. my master has ordered it.” March 8: Man brought in a bobcat last March 10: We left our night camp early, night, for which we paid $1.00. Wulda caught Wulda catching a black mongoose and a a black mongoose. We had an early start and kabarro (jackal). Our route was over the level traveled along the Gumara valley, a wide, flat Tsana plains. Many villages of rather rude expanse with rugged hills and occasional huts; great fields of teff, from which the Abys- hat-shaped hills here and there. No game and sinians make their bread. There were flocks of but a few birds. When we passed the customs white cow herons (Cattle Egret) which were house, the wise Abyssinian in charge said he feeding about the cattle; kestrels poised over- was the servant of Ras Guksa, not Ras Tafari, head and flocks of Spur-winged Plovers worked and refused to let us go through, though I the plowed fields. The natives dug waterholes would have liked to try him to see how far here and there over the flat and have to go his bluff would go. We finally made camp, only a few feet, as they live close to the lake. however, and Jack and Abogaz started off to There were many people, their tukuls being see Ras Guksa. It was just a holdup, and when poorly built, and numerous herds of cattle. the Abyssinian saw Jack was really going, he The lake itself is about a mile from our camp said it was all right and we could go through. and has a green grassy bank and black sand. After a couple of hours on the trail, met a Are camped along a stream leading to the guide with two zabâniya who were sent by lake, and there are many Jacana about; also Ras Guksa, and they will accompany us clear saw a small heron, grebe, small cormorant, to the Simiens. Shot a couple of geese and several white-headed sea eagles, stilts, etc. We made up the male. had to go about an hour out of our way to a March 9: We were off at 8:00 a.m. Wulda customs place, where the usual wrangle took caught a serval cat, a large female, and a place. This time, the customs man balked few Arvicanthis. Our trail was over rolling, because Ras Guksa had not mentioned his brush-covered country. We passed many name in the letter of permit! The men who blossom-covered trees which bore flowers were to bring us bread failed to do so, and our resembling the catalpa blossom but of a deli- guide put them in chains. We asked that they cate pink. They were beautiful in contrast to be given their liberty, but the old garazmatch the otherwise drab surrounds. Our new guide took them along as an example.

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Figure 3.57. Natives in reed boat on Lake Tsana, Abyssinia, March 11, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-251. Many birds came from the lake into the slough adja- Ahead, across the glistening, golden plain bathed cent to our camp in the early hours on March 11, including in the early morning light, were tiers of hazy mountain Egyptian and knobbed geese; egrets, white herons, large ranges, their rugged crests indistinct in the distance. blue and Goliath herons; black and sacred ibis; stilts; small The trail was excellent, and good time was made. In five shorebirds; and great flocks of small perching birds. hours, we came to a customs post near the north end of We were on trek at 7:30 and followed along the the lake where many natives were lolling in the shade of reed-grown banks of Lake Tsana (Fig. 3.57) and, occa- a fig tree, and offshore was a reed boat typical of Abyssin- sionally, along open expanses of black sands. Knobbed ian lakes. As we were told the next water was four hours geese lined the shores or were in the shallows by thou- away, camp was made. In the twilight hour, numerous sands, and I couldn’t help thinking what a thrill Fuertes Pennant-winged Nightjars hovered near, the long flut- would have had to see such concentrations—and to tering appendages on the wingtips looking like two small hope that he and Osgood were seeing similar numbers bats pursuing each bird—a most strange illusion. on the opposite side of Tsana. Contrary to our expectations, there was a level White pelican and plover were very common. Two trail on the 12th that led over a wooded plain well grown large islands a half mile from the beach must have been with trees having reddish trunks. Few birds were noted, the breeding place of many pelicans, for they seemed to be and it was extremely hot. A high escarpment flanked the covered with white guano deposit. Several kingfishers and route on the left, and great cumulus clouds filled the sky. blue rollers and a few bare-throated francolins were seen. We traveled for five hours without seeing water except,

88 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 from a distance, at the north end of Lake Tsana. My Gondar probably having been erected over a period of 30 notes mention: “Extremely beautiful Mimosa country, years in the mid-seventeenth century. ideal for game but none in the country. I collected three As soon as camp was pitched in a level place adja- sunbirds; they made a call like the pouring of water from cent to the largest fortress, many natives swarmed about, a jug, which sounds as though from a distant, large bird our men bartering for bread and tej. The Italians had but, in reality, from this small creature close at hand. a consulate in this out-of-the-way place, and the three The organ bird is another queer one with a musical note; of us immediately climbed the hill to the unimposing he is a small, inconspicuous, black and white bushshrike building, where we found only the photographer, the which slips from one bit of cover to another.” Consul and other members of his staff being at Debre The trek to the hill town of Gondar took five hours Tabor. The photographer was a homesick individual; he instead of the two promised us. As we neared, we saw was playing a stack of records by Caruso and others, and the large castle and fortifications built by Portuguese after playing all on one side, he would turn the pile over artisans (Fig. 3.58). A small band of Portuguese, possibly and start down the other. 500 men, under Don Cristoforo de Gama, joined Abyssin- When he learned I was interested in photography, ians in 1541 to resist onslaughts of Moslem forces under he showed us enlargements of scenes he had made, the leadership of Imam Ahmad Gran. Gama was killed including the battlefield of Adwa where King Menelik, the following year, but the remainder of his men helped with more than 120,000 men, defeated a force of some defeat the Musselmen. 15,000 Italians in 1896. The positions held by the Ital- Jesuit missionaries from Portugal entered Abys- ians were marked on the photo. From his numerous sinia and converted many of the natives during the next photos, we judged that the whole northern section of 100 years—the beautiful buildings of native stone at the country was being charted, and later, the three of

Figure 3.58. Portuguese ruins, Gondar, Abyssinia, March 13, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-235.

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us agreed that such information would be of great value for the day of March 14 was: “This evening our men had should the Italians make another attempt at invading a row with the négadis over a woman. The négadis took Abyssinia. her away from our men, and they flourished guns until At the time of our visit, there was a rivalry between we kicked her out of camp.” Britain, France, and Italy for the goodwill of the Abys- Apparently, Jack Baum felt that the people of sinians, and the photographer was much interested in Gondar had learned little from the reminders of the past, knowing how many Europeans of other nationalities we for in his excellent account of our journey (Baum 1927) had met in remote places. When we told him we had seen he wrote: only a few Greek traders, he shrugged his shoulders and commented, “Adam found Greeks in the Garden of Eden.” Generations of Abyssinians have come and I recorded in my journal on March 13: “Gondar is on gone. But the lesson of the hardy builders is a high hill, with a deep valley to the west… In the valley lost. The grass tukuls of the inhabitants of is an old fortress with thick portholed walls. A large house Gondar surround the old pile. Boys, mostly inside the 200-yard-square fort had a deep moat protecting jet-black Shankala slaves, herd a few goats it, with a causeway leading to the house. I noticed large, and cattle upon the hillsides. Women carry bulky nests with small holes sticking about the windows, heavy earthen jars of water up the long, and flushed a Hamerkop from one. Near the fortress is steep hill. There is no farming, no building. the tomb of King Fasilides’ horse, Zebal Makabes—the The “streets” of the village are deep in dust tomb, according to the Italian photographer, being built and so filled with sharp rocks that a mule in 1660. The main castle, a pretentious affair, is in a sad can scarcely pass from one end to the other state of ruin. There were numerous dungeons, the towers without accident. Although Gondar is the with portholes overlooking the walls, the battlements, and largest village in the northern half of the men’s quarters; cages for lions and the nearby stables… country, sugar, candles, grain, tobacco, Gondar is not an attractive place… The village is over- kerosene for the cook’s lantern, blankets— grown with weeds, and flies are present by the millions.” in fact, nothing can be bought. But crowds The Portuguese built six stone bridges in the vicinity, of native priests recline in the shade of the including the one we crossed over the Blue Nile. round, grass-roofed church. Its walls are My notes scribbled the next night mention that blazoned with stiff pictures of the terrors of Suydam and I photographed the old fortress on the hell. The years roll by in endless procession. hill opposite town. Evidently, I was not too impressed Nothing has changed, and if the adventurous with Gondar for I noted: “The Shum, the headman of Portuguese should return from their sleep of the village, came to our camp in the afternoon, and I three centuries they would find the people told him what a ‘delightful city’ this hellhole is.” Also, of Gondar just as they found them in the I recorded a visit of two missionaries, a Mr. Baur and year that Vasco da Gama sailed away down a Mr. Heinz, who were trying to impose their religious the Red Sea and left them, a little band of beliefs upon the people of Gondar and vicinity and were devoted religious enthusiasts, standing bare- having difficult times due to the opposition of the Coptic headed upon the burning sands. priests. They were greatly discouraged, and I asked them how long they expected to stay, Mr. Baur responding with More than half a century has passed since Suydam, a sigh, “I think forever,” and my parenthetical footnote Jack, and I visited the Gondar region. In the meantime, was that that would be equivalent to one week. One of our the Italians invaded the country, built roads and bridges, problems was having women coming into camp, which and finally were defeated in a great battle in the vicinity usually resulted in trouble, and my concluding memo of Gondar. Plane service is now available from Addis,

90 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 requiring just a few hours of travel, instead of weeks Ayalu’s stronghold was on a high hill (Fig. 3.59), and overland on muleback—and I would like to again visit at the base waiting for us were two rows of soldiers. There the area to see the changes made. were about 75 in each line dressed in khaki uniforms with After the two nights in Gondar, all hands were up belts of cartridges over their shoulders, and they stood at early on March 15, mules packed and on their way up a attention as we rode along. They were the best-trained men wide valley. Just outside of Gondar were the ruins of an we had seen, all armed with good rifles. Thirty horsemen old Portuguese church with some fine cedars about. The on fine steeds, gear gaily caparisoned with gold and silver trail was up and down, leading into some deep canyons, ornaments, followed us, the spears of the riders flashing in but we made an excellent march of six hours and stopped the sunlight (Fig. 3.60). Even our tired mules seemed to for the night along a small stream at 9,000 feet. enter into the spirit of the occasion. Our caravan was on its way early, our men seem- We wound up the steep hill to a formidable fence ingly eager to reach Dejazmach Ayalu’s village of Davart, of rails lashed with vines and entered the narrow about 40 miles northeast of Gondar—a typical tukul gateway. Inside were fully 2,000 men drawn to atten- town backed up a few miles beyond by a triangular peak, tion in two rows. We rode through the courtyard with a great chasm dropping away to the northwest and a between them into another and then dismounted to series of rugged crests—one after the other disappearing walk through a final gate. Dejazmach Ayalu’s house in the distant haze. was the usual circular type but of two stories, and the

Figure 3.59. Dejazmach Ayalu’s fortress, Davart, Abyssinia, March 18, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-172.

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Figure 3.60. Reception committee of northern chieftain Dejazmach Ayalu inside his fortification, Davart, Abyssinia, March 18, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-034. chieftain, a man of medium height and a genial smile, Ayalu’s recommendation, but when we arrived at the met us on the porch. He conducted us to the second great escarpment dropping thousands of feet, we were story where two machine guns were mounted, with men inclined to agree with him.) standing by, Ayalu mentioning that he always had his We left our genial host after an excellent 20-course guards stationed near. We passed into his living room, luncheon and were accompanied by one of Ayalu’s a commodious affair with comfortable chairs, and officers who had been delegated to see that we received the Dejazmach immediately started asking questions cooperation from the natives along the way. The caravan regarding our work and about our country, saying we had preceded us, and finally, we caught up with our men were the first Americans to visit him. He had a good where they had made camp at an elevation of 9,200 feet sense of humor and wanted to know our ages, whether in a wide valley at the base of the triangular peak we had we were married and had children, and suggested that observed since leaving Gondar. Suydam should stay with him; if he would, Ayalu would The trek March 19 over rolling country with fine give him the choice of 80 tukuls and girls between 18 stands of acacias in the valleys was of special interest and 20 years—and some of them were not black. The in that we met a band of wild-looking natives who had Dejazmach showed us a dozen rifles, inspected ours captured two of Dejazmach Ayalu’s men and had them and wanted to buy them. He said there were many ibex manacled. The garasmatch accompanying us recognized along the steep escarpments of the Simiens and that he the captives, liberated them, and put the leader of the would give us permission to secure the specimens we gang in chains, sending him back to Ayalu under guard wanted, but the cliffs were so dangerous that he advised of a couple of zabâniya. us to let the natives shoot the animals. We explained We were now in an area inhabited by people known we were used to difficult places, and Cutting told of as the Falashas (a Hamitic group similar to Gallas but his ibex hunting in the Tian Shan mountains of Asia having Jewish religious beliefs.) In my notes the evening with a Roosevelt expedition. (We were amused with of March 20, I recorded:

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Off at 7:30, passed over two knife-like ridges, along the edge of the cliff, stopped momentarily, and and then followed northward to a point near with one leap were out of sight. the edge of the escarpment. Passed a couple During our absence, camp had been pitched at the of Falasha villages. Their tukuls are not well edge of the escarpment, high walls towering to the east made. We are camped at about 10,000 feet in and west, while a deep valley, that of the Bellagaz, ran to a beautiful valley with many of the tall, spiked the south into a veritable chasm a short distance below lobelias about. The large plant with the round the tents. There was a large village not far away, and our balls, like on Albasso, is very common. A half efficient garasmatch commandeered supplies—Ayalu mile to the north is the edge of the escarpment, having told him to make the natives supply us with food. a drop of 2,000 or 3,000 feet to the Takkaze We had protested we wanted to pay, but we received the River, with the mountain-desert country logical explanation, “If I take my men and make them extending northward below us, a chaotic give us plenty of supplies, they will hurry to help us get series of sharp ridges, precipitous cliffs, and the walia so they will not have to feed you!” sterile valleys. It is an awesome spectacle, In the afternoon, Allamayu and I and a native with the heath-clad slopes dropping abruptly guide descended the escarpment near our camp, drop- to a far greater depth. Any description at all ping down the precipitous slope at the place called the would have to be conservative. We could hear “abyss” by Mayder. The great brownish cliffs towered gelada baboons barking in the valley, their above, with small grass-grown shelves with stunted cedar. calls echoing and re-echoing from one cliff It was so steep that it did not seem possible to descend, to another. A klipspringer was seen darting but our guide worked slowly until we came to a broad from a clump of heath, and several big white ridge where we commanded a view of the entire abyss. hawks cruised along the cliffs. The natives He crawled down to a little ledge and watched from as say there are but few ibex here, and we are precarious a perch as I have ever seen, with 1,000 feet to travel four hours tomorrow. I prepared 14 of good, clear air just beneath him. I hoped he would small mammals today. not see ibex. Finally, he returned, and a little later, we saw a young male walia just below us. The animal must Our camp was near the village of Sankaber, and have been alarmed, for it dropped down the cliff in the thermometer that night registered 28 degrees, so places I did not think even a goat could go. The guide all the men were shivering as the sun climbed above quickly undeceived me, for we followed, and I scrambled the eastern mountains. Our trail led in a few hours after, with the guide giving an occasional hand. After northeast over rolling country, the high plateau cut by 15 minutes of cautious work over as difficult a cliff as I narrow chasms dropping abruptly. We stopped at the hope to descend, the native guide motioned me to come, edge of the precipitous escarpment to scan the walls, and so with the rifle, I peeked over the ledge. There below my gunbearer, Allamayu, was bug-eyed as he viewed the me, about 100 yards away, was my walia, crouched and terrain. He was silent for a moment and then exclaimed, ready to spring, with head turned in our direction. I sat “Mongot yellem” (there is no road). down and, taking good aim, pulled. He sprang from the Ibex had been seen along the cliffs the previous ledge, sailed in midair for 100 feet, alighted on his back day, according to natives nearby, so we climbed down in a grassy knoll, turned a complete somersault, and fell a few hundred yards and then separated, Suydam and another 100 feet into the brush. The men started down Jack working to the right. Allamayu and I followed a the cliff, but I said the “mongot” (road) was “kufenu” ledge to the left and then scanned nearby walls with (bad) and left the actual skinning to Allamayu and the the binoculars. Suddenly two male ibex, young animals guide. It had taken all my nerve to go down the cliff, so with about 12-inch horns, appeared from below, ran I returned to camp, and the boys came in at dark with a

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Figure 3.61. Native guide Demurku and A.M. Bailey with first Abyssinian ibex to be collected by an American, near Sankaber, Abyssinia, March 21, 1927. Photographer unknown. DMNS No. IV.BA26-146. fine young male with a beautiful head, the first Abyssin- and, in others, just worn bunchgrass where ian ibex to be collected by an American (Fig. 3.61). Jack the going was precarious. Game trails led and Suydam had seen six ibex on the walls of the abyss, along the foot of the cliff, with droppings of probably where Mayder first saw them. walia, klipspringer, and gelada. We followed The night of March 22, I recorded in my notes: along the ledge for about two hours, working slowly for game, until finally, we came to the We were off about 6:30 on our hunt, and my jumping off place where further progress guide led me to the “betwixt and between” was impossible. My guide was a regular goat country. It is surprising where one can go, and would run over places I hated to even for apparently impossible precipices have attempt. We jumped two ibex, and I enjoyed footholds of the strong bunchgrass. This watching them on the cliff, with the glasses, sloping ledge was about 50 feet wide at a as they posed looking back for danger. maximum, dwindling to nothing in places, They keep their tails down, not erect- with a 1,000-foot drop. Above was the high ing them as in domestic goats, and they escarpment with one, equally great, below. In are extremely protectively colored, the rich places, there was a tangle of ferns, ground brown of the back blending with the browns, weeds, cedar, and small trees growing thickly sepias, and shadows of the rocks, while the

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light of the legs is like that of the yellow and his native helper returned, their clothing torn from grasses. They are extremely hard to see, even their work in securing the ibex I had shot the night when in the open on a straight-up-and-down before. The animal, a small male with horns about 18 cliff. Returned to camp via the same route, inches long, must have fallen more than 2,000 feet, for seeing five small ibex in the valley near water. all they retrieved was the head and fragments of skin Saw several along the cliff of the “abyss” (the horns now on my office wall). It had taken them all where they wandered around like flies on the day to make the descent and climb back. wall. Our hats are off to them! We saw two We had learned that our companions could be females and a young at close range. In the dramatic on occasion, and Abtold did not lose the oppor- evening, I went to the place where I killed tunity, for he called our interpreter. Then, standing erect, last night and sat down to watch. Suddenly a the glow of the fire playing upon the extended horns and small male, or a female, came onto the little tattered head-skin, he said in a loud voice as interpreted ledge. Allamayu handed me the gun, and I to us, “I am a poor man.” Pausing momentarily to let his shot straight down, flattening my gun upon announcement sink in, he added, “For all the money in the the ledge. He stayed for a moment and then world I would not go down those cliffs for another walia.” rolled off into space to the valley far below. It was so late the boys refused to go after him March 24: We were up at daylight and on the until the morrow. Jack shot two small males, summit of Geech (Ras Dashen) by 6:00. My ideal for the group. Collected a Crocidura. guide took me to the escarpment and down a (This specimen proved to be the type of a peninsula of rock leading into the chasm. We new species, C. baileyi, named for me by Dr. located a band of 18 walia, in a deep valley, Osgood (Osgood 1936, p. 225). with two large males. There was no chance for a stalk, so I sent one man around to toss At daybreak, Abtold, my favorite skinner and rocks, while we took as good a place as pos- a native of the area, started down the cliffs to retrieve sible, hoping for a shot. The ibex were not the ibex, and our caravan men broke camp, while Jack, greatly alarmed by the rocks and moved off Suydam, and I rode ahead, followed by our gunbearers leisurely but dropped farther into the valley. and local guides, to the slopes of towering Ras Dashen We had a fairly good trail along the edge of (15,158 feet), the highest mountain of the Simiens the cliff and finally saw a band of females (called “Mount Geech” in my notes). Jack and Suydam and young. It was a beautiful sight to see continued on, while Allamayu, my guide Demurku, and them silhouetted against the sky. We needed I worked carefully down a sheer wall some 100 feet— an adult female and a young for the group, when the native grabbed my arm and whispered, “Tidlik so I stalked them and had an easy chance. walia!” Ahead were eight females and young ibex already Shot a young one but mistook a young male in flight, and standing was a fine large male. I dropped for a female, so lost my chance of a female. to one knee and fired and took a running shot at a The two specimens were skinned out, and I female as it neared the precipice. She flip-flopped into returned to camp exhausted, with a wrenched space, lodging a mere 150 feet below, and we found my knee. Peeled 14 specimens. Jack collected two male with 30-inch horns nearby, a magnificent specimen small walia, and Cutting, a fine male which without a blemish upon its hide. the men will try to find tomorrow. Our camp that night was at 11,200 feet, the highest March 25: Collected birds in the fore- we had made, and at dusk, as the men were gathered noon, securing three of the red-billed crows about their campfires and we were having dinner, Abtold (choughs) I saw over the chasm the first day.

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Smaller than the Slender-billed Crow, they The men were anxious to start the return trip and are blue-black of plumage and have coral had the mules packed early. As I was eating breakfast, my red beaks, legs, and feet. Eyes brown. They native guide Demurku came to the table and lifted his are very showy, and 50 pairs were about the arms over his head, saying, “Tidlik walia.” Our interpreter village, the pairs feeding together. They have told me that the native knew where there was a big ibex, strident calls like terns and, in flight, the so I decided to go with him for a couple hours and then pairs sail about, the two keeping their inter- ride after the caravan. My mule was tied to a tree, and a val to a nicety. I collected a miscellaneous zabâniya stayed by to see that one of the local natives did batch of birds, and Wulda caught a genet. not lead it away. Allamayu and I followed Demurku and Made up 24 specimens for the day. another native. We dropped down 1,000 feet or more, the March 26: My guide Demurku worked distant walls hazy in the early morning light, so visibility the cliffs this forenoon and sent back word was poor. Soon we located a band of ibex, one a fine male. he had a tidlick (big ibex) for me. I went over There was a narrow ledge, not more than four feet wide and worked down more than 1,000 feet to with a sheer drop of 2,000 feet, which led to the animals. where he was waiting and, sure enough, he Demurku and his helper squatted on a point of the cliff had a family group of ibex, a female, young, with a good view so he could motion to us, and I led the and male waiting to be roused from their way with Allamayu following, rifle on his back so he would resting place. The male was not a large one, have both hands to help navigate difficult places. however, and I did not shoot. Was within 100 It was not a pleasant stalk, but when we neared the yards. The climb was very strenuous, and I point where we had seen the animals, I caught a glimpse noticed the altitude, for my bellows worked of the large horn, just beyond a big projecting rock, not like a steam engine. Collected 14 birds, 30 feet away. I dropped to one knee and reached back including four more Red-billed Choughs, as Allamayu scrambled to get the rifle from around his and made up four rats besides. There is little neck. The ibex probably heard us, but instead of disap- here now of interest. Jack and Suydam took pearing beyond the projecting cliff, it headed up the steep a blanket each and, with guides, have gone escarpment directly overhead. Without thinking, I shot, down the escarpment on the north end of and the huge walia came crashing down, landed on the Geech, as their men assure them of tidlick ledge within three feet, so close I could have touched him, (big) ibex. and bounced off into space, to lodge among rocks more March 27: Jack got a nice ibex, a little than 1,000 feet below—so far down that I had to use the better than my big one. It fell a long dis- binoculars to locate him. When friends have since asked tance and smashed the skull badly. Cutting me what wild animal I consider the most dangerous, did not get a chance at a male. Both were invariably I think of that walia tumbling toward me, and cold during the night. I collected birds so my answer has been “a dead ibex.” and prepared about 18 specimens, besides I sat on the ledge while Allamayu and the other two packing a box with specimens preparatory descended by a roundabout way, it taking them two hours to our backtracking. Tomorrow we start for to reach the trophy, I directing them to its location by home! And every step we take will be toward hand waves. Realizing it would take hours for the boys home and our loved ones. This Abyssinian to skin the walia, the ninth I had collected, I climbed the trip has been a wonderful experience, but escarpment and, with the zabâniya, rode after the caravan, one surely misses his family. My last night finding it at our old site near the “abyss.” In my notes, on Mount Geech is a beautiful one, but I will I mention that Allamayu and the natives reached camp leave with no regrets. “at 5:00 with the ibex, a good head but small—about 28

96 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 inches. The skull was smashed and the buttock was split correct, for Dr. Osgood used the photo in his Geographic from the fall, so the animal was skinned through the hole article (Osgood 1928). without making another cut. The boys were all in from Arriving at Davart, we immediately called on their trip. Jack collected a duiker; Suydam, a male ibex Dejazmach Ayalu to thank him for his fine cooperation. and a klipspringer; and I, two fine geladas near camp. We camped on the plain near the village, and a short They seem different from the Muger and Nile forms, for time later the Italian Consul, Dr. Agenore Francolini, they are gray and black rather than brown. The male was and a young surgeon, Dr. Abeli Magnani, with a rather a very large, fine specimen.” impressive group of natives, arrived from Gondar, their During the next two days, our steps were retraced tents pitched near ours. My concluding journal entry to Davart. The second day of our return, when we neared that night was: “Had dinner with the Consul; they have the triangular peak mentioned in my notes after our quite an organization.” visit with Dejazmach Ayalu en route to the ibex country, I noted a group of natives approaching, apparently April 1: Collected ten specimens and skinned retainers of an important person who was riding a mule them this forenoon while the boys were pre- and holding an umbrella. It was a picturesque sight, paring the camp to entertain the Dejazmach with the peak in the distance nicely framed by limbs of and Consul. They arrived at noon, the two acacias and other growth. Italians and the Abyssinian. As the Dejazmach I climbed off my mule, with camera in hand, as could not eat much of our food because of Baum came alongside. To his query, “What you doing, Lent, he brought his own. Had a pleasant, if Bill?” I replied, “Taking a photo for the National Geo- somewhat hectic, dinner. Afterward, we staged graphic Magazine.” (My offhand remark proved to be a shooting match at which we did not shine

Figure 3.62. Dejazmach Ayalu, Davart, Abyssinia, April 1, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-162.

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particularly. My front sight came off; fortu- two syces’ bags; we feel sure the whole bunch nately, it did not do so in the field! After that, has been swiping our stuff. I collected a nice we took photos of the horsemen, soldiers, etc. little male duiker near camp this evening. Ayalu had some wonderful horses [Fig. 3.62]. The Dejazmach walked back to our tent and Ayalu was a bit concerned regarding our westward presented each of us with two rings of virgin trek, for he had just received word that a band of some gold and a leopard skin. We were greatly 500 bandits, led by the son of a former dejazmach, was pleased, needless to say. Also gave us a pair of on a rampage between us and the Sudan border and that large ibex horns. they were burning villages and robbing the people. April 2: We had an early start from We had an early start from Davart and that evening Davart after the Dejazmach had made a bid made camp (Fig. 3.63) in a beautiful site close to a wooded for our guns. Jack let him have his rifle for creek with intermittent potholes of cold, clean water. Great $400, and I mine for $200 Abyssinian, the acacias spread their limbs over our tents, and a short way guns to be sent back from Gallabat. Collected beyond, the creek tumbled by a series of waterfalls into a good series of birds. We trekked to the site a great canyon where, upon steep slopes, were troops of of our old camp along the little creek one day dog-faced baboons. A pair of Thick-billed Ravens nested from Davart and had a very good camp. Heavy along the cliff, a white-bellied hawk perched on a snag, rain in the evening, the first for a long time. and calls of francolins came from nearby hillsides. The garasmatch and Ashagri found Cutting’s Natives drove their cattle to water, the animals compass and a bunch of our cartridges in the standing belly deep, leaving reluctantly and only after

Figure 3.63. Field Museum camp, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-240.

98 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 being stoned. Our pet baboons—we now had six geladas arranged to rent 12 mules for the Gallabat in addition to Tinish, our little dog-face—enjoyed the trip at $12 per load. We leave early in the camp, for they climbed the trees and leaped from limbs forenoon, all going well. We hope to get lions upon the tents, jumping from one rope to another, or along the Chimfa River a day or two south searching the trunks for Acacia gum. A female black of the Gallabat trail. Packed specimens and duck, a bird with white markings on the scapulars, had am ready for the next two weeks’ collecting. a flock of half-grown young trailing after as she worked During the afternoon rain, when the sun one small pool after another, her resonant quacks being was just dropping over the western hills, we clearly heard as she admonished her brood. saw a double rainbow, the lower one being especially brilliant, with both sides in plain April 4: We had a gentle rain this morning, so sight and seemingly within 100 yards of us. we did not get an early start. While skinning specimens, we heard a troop of baboons, and Our hired négadis failed to appear, one of them there were fully 100 upon a knoll. I finally coming to tell us the old story of five mules lost and that secured a male, and not until then was I sure we could not travel. We called them liars and ordered him they were hamadryas, for they are very dark, to get the other men around immediately. The crestfallen resembling the dog-faced, and not light-col- fellow disappeared, but shortly, mules began to straggle in, ored like the Wabe form. I collected a paradise and we finally were on our way after midday. By then the flycatcher near camp. We finally were under- clouds had gathered with a consequent downpour, but for- way about 10:00 and saw another large band tunately, I had covered all specimens with canvas, so none of baboons; I took the lightest colored of the was damaged. The trail became a veritable quagmire, our bunch for comparison. These seem to take to riding mules sending spray flying with every step. Several the rounded hills, rather than deep canyons, magnificent secretary birds stalked unconcernedly, paying and simply run ahead of the hunter, rather little attention, as our caravan wound close at hand, than dropping down inaccessible ridges. and we met a string of about 30 mules coming from the In one great valley, there were thou- westward, the négadis telling us that Dr. Osgood and Louis sands of large swifts working for insects, and Fuertes were only two days ahead. I shot two specimens. They whirled about by the thousands. I also collected a good series of April 7: I collected a good series of birds along sunbirds. We reached Gondar about 2:30 and the little creek this forenoon, including para- found that Dr. Osgood had forwarded mail. dise flycatchers and barbets. The latter had a Received a letter from home written January nest in a hollow stump, the hole being freshly 10th. All well. What wonderful news! drilled, and three white, woodpecker-like April 5: I collected near the ruins in the eggs within the bottom of the cavity, with no valley this forenoon, getting three species of nest lining. We trekked westward four hours birds new to my collection. Prepared speci- over rolling Acacia-covered slopes. The trail mens this forenoon. It rained all afternoon, was good, and small streams of water were in the wind boxing the compass. Allamayu col- every valley. It was very hot even though we lected seven bats and a Procavia in one of were still above 6,000 feet altitude. the old ruins. The Arvicanthis collected at our last The Italian photographer is sick with camp appear to be a dark, unstriped race, the fever, so we did not go to the Consulate which I have not taken before. We saw a other than to attend necessary business. We duiker among the cattle as we trekked along.

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Also saw an occasional dry-land kingfisher, We had an early start from Chilga and trekked over a species which works about the acacias and a rolling plateau for a couple of hours to the edge of an feeds on insects. Many swallows and swifts escarpment which dropped to the lowlands toward the were overhead. Sudan. Ahead, the prospect was anything but pleasant, Prepared fourteen specimens; in the for through the blue haze, we could make out an intri- evening collected nine more birds. Few signs cate mass of knifelike hogbacks below us, which looked of small mammals. We are traveling through formidable when we had been hoping for a flat plain. a district marked “Barak” on the chart and The caravan wound down a steep and rather narrow are encamped on a little wooded watercourse path from 7,000 feet to 3,950 feet, and after three hours, near a village known as “Kantafa.” Our an old camping ground was reached with “small” water négadi says there is “multa ourie” (much near. The négadi was willing to continue on, however, so game) near Walmier. we trekked an additional three hours to where he said April 8: We traveled over two great, there would be “tidlik waha” (big water)—which proved wide valleys with gently sloping hillsides, to be two stinking potholes some ten yards square. Even through rather heavy thorn country, for five tea did not disguise the vile taste. Camp was pitched in hours. There was very little water, just a few a shut-in valley with many euphorbias. Mule feed was potholes of poor water in the deep canyons, scant as the grass had been burned and the trees were and the whole country is burned out, having leafless. After being in the highlands, we were aware of short, dry grass that was very poor mule the change in temperature—91 degrees in the shade. feed. I saw a duiker and jumped a wild pig from the long grass nearby. A coyote offered April 10: We were on trek at 6:30 and followed me an easy chance a few moments later, and down a wide valley through dense bush. The I scored a clean miss. We encamped near trail was an excellent one for such a rough the village of Chilga. It is the home post of country, but water was very scarce, so we Dejazmach Baryhoon, who died a few weeks traveled five hours before reaching a few fine ago. He had five sons, one by his wife and pools in a rocky streambed. We had a good the other four by “outside women,” as our swim, the best we have had in the country. interpreter put it. The legitimate son is very Passed many thickets of bamboo on young and has been given the position held the hills, and Jack shot a monkey which by his father. The other four have turned resembles jamjamensis that Osgood secured shiftas and have been causing consider- south of Addis. I collected 15 birds today. able trouble. We are hoping not to meet the It was 94 degrees in the shade at noon. No gentlemen. game as yet. The Southern Cross is plainly visible, April 11: We trekked down a wide valley and the moon, half-full, gleams from a for five hours through great fields of grain crowded starlit sky. Fifteen specimens for the six feet high and through bamboo thickets to day. Our camp is along a little creek bed with a few small waterholes known as “Wahina.” a few potholes of water. Our baboons furnish There is a small village a few hours away us endless amusement—the Queen of Sheba, from our campsite. When passing through Solomon, Tinish, Toro, Shifta, and Lej. They one particular flat stretch, I saw some small run all about the camp, in and out the tents, francolins new to my collection, I believe, and one on top the other continually. They although they may be the same as taken at make ideal pets. Luku. Collected four of them. There were fields

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of cotton in this place; we camped under a game hereabouts, but it is a hard country to magnificent fig tree, and I prepared 18 speci- hunt, for we make so much noise over dry mens. Allamayu brought in a toto (monkey); grass and rocks. In addition to the kudu, I there are many here. The old headman of the saw a male Oryx and a male waterbuck. Alla- village came in this evening and promised mayu and I lost our bearings and reached we would see roan antelope, waterbuck, and camp late, the fine moon helping consider- bushbuck tomorrow—“multo!” He advises ably in our return. us to go to “Koke,” two and one half days April 13: We left camp early this farther, and then turn southward to the forenoon and trekked along a good trail Chimfa River to do our hunting. for a while, and then cut off to the left with We sold two of our tired mules today an Abyssinian to get him meat. I jumped a to the old garasmatch of Wahina. Jack said male waterbuck at about the same place that, because we liked him so well, he could I saw the one last evening. He ran over a have the mules for $10 each. The old man barren hilltop and paused at about 300 smiled and said, “You are a big man and yards. I pulled point blank and hit him in would not lie.” the shoulder; he ran 30 feet and fell head- long into a ravine, dead. He was a beautiful Our six pet baboons slept in a big fig tree during specimen. Saw many oribi and had excel- the night and, in the morning, were reluctant to come lent chances to shoot. In the afternoon, down to resume their accustomed places, each tied on I went out at 3:00 and soon saw a large a mule, so we looked like an organ grinder’s outfit. antelope, but it proved a good male water- Consequently, we were delayed in getting underway. The buck instead of the roan I had hoped for. trail led through bamboo thickets with individual canes We got word that Dr. Osgood and Fuertes more than 25 feet high, and when some open country are camping within two hours of us, and appeared, Allamayu and I detoured half a mile to one we sent a note asking them to come to this side. I had the misfortune to be thrown from my mule camp. Put up nine birds. when it fell into a hole, breaking the tail strap, which April 14: Went out early this morning, loosened the saddle, resulting in no damage to my following along the river. Jumped six young “buckalo” or to me. The countryside showed evidence waterbucks in high grass and saw many of drouth, for flat areas, in places, were checker-boarded oribi. Surprised a large herd of baboons so badly with wide, deep cracks between that my riding along the river. Many crocodiles. Collected mule had to move carefully to keep from stumbling. As two oribi, including a spotted fawn; Suydam Allamayu and I were walking over a particularly difficult killed a large warthog. stretch of a draw, badly seamed, we saw three beautiful Dr. Osgood and Louis Fuertes reached male greater kudu standing partially in the shadow of our camp about 11:00, and it was a joyful outstretched branches—animals I considered the most reunion all around. It seems very good to majestic of African antelope. According to my notes: have the whole party together again. Made up eight birds. In the evening, I went after I had a good bead on a noble specimen with roan, going into the dry country, back great lyre-shaped horns and dropped him from water. Saw one large one, but failed with a neck shot. Our camp is along a little to connect on a running shot. My back is river with good, clear water and fine shade very sore tonight. Fuertes has 900 birds and trees on the banks. There is considerable Osgood about 600 mammals.

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Fuertes, in his published journal notes of April 14, the trip. Started photographing the men this mentioned that their camp was set near ours “in a grove of evening. Altitude 2,200 feet. We are encamped huge fig trees where the trails join, and we were soon in the along an old streambed with a few small midst of a hearty reunion. The boys are all in great condi- waterholes. Saw four mongooses and many tion, had a highly successful trip, got 12 walia ibex in two birds. Flocks of weaver finches and quite a weeks, including four excellent rams (one of 43 inches, few parrots and Rose-ringed Parakeets. two short of the record) and waited two weeks more for Bill Bailey to get his small stuff. Which he did. Passed the Our Abyssinian experiences were over April 17, for 900th bird number today (specimens collected). Bill lacks we trekked into Metemma and on across the Egyptian- six of 1,000 birds, and ten or twelve of 800 mammals, an Sudan border to Gallabat from the village of Koke, astonishing record for his time in the field. Besides this, he passing through a rather dense scrub country which was has taken and developed over 1,000 negatives, mostly in grown with high grass, where not burned off. A few oribi the field” (Fuertes & Osgood 1936). and hartebeests were noted along the way. We sat around the campfire that evening, rehash- The two little towns close together on the side of ing experiences, and from the sounds coming from where a sunbaked hill had a total population of about 300 our men were gathered, we judged that they too were people. Shade was scant, and we were told the tem- glad of the reunion. After a rather late start the follow- perature reached 115 degrees. The natives of Gallabat ing morning, we trekked for about three hours toward on the Sudan side of the line were Sudanese and the Metemma and the neighboring town of Gallabat, in the black Shankalas, the former picturesque in their flowing Egyptian Sudan, over a flat trail which wound through white garments in contrast to the Abyssinian shammas dense scrub over which fire had swept. Our campsite was to which we had grown accustomed. an attractive one, with large fig trees, although there was There were two English officials in Gallabat: very little water, only a small pothole, necessitating taking Mr. Emery, the Inspector of Customs, and Mr. Gordon, the riding and pack animals to a large pool some distance Commandant of a native police force. Both proved very away. En route to camp, I saw a dozen silver-grey kites hospitable. sailing high overhead, so far above they were out of range for small shot. I inserted a load of buckshot and brought April 18: Very hot; stayed in camp all day. one down, such a beautiful creature that Louie painted it Captain Gordon visited us. This is a very that evening. (This was one of the last bird portraits by interesting place with its motley collection Fuertes and was included in the beautiful set of Abyssin- of Sudanese, Arabs, Abyssinians, and mixed ian birds, published by the Field Museum, financed by a whites; camel caravans come and go and, all gift from Suydam Cutting (Fuertes 1930).) in all, it is as quaint and picturesque a place as one could look for. Captain Gordon said armed April 16: Marched three hours to Koke where natives and Abyssinians along the frontier we were to get information from the Shanka- were shot down on sight, for they were poach- las regarding hunting on the Chimfa. They ers and raiders. We see a good many people knew nothing of game conditions, so we are with three scars on each cheek. They are of trekking into Metemma in the morning, and the tribes that remained faithful to General it looks like the end of our Abyssinian expe- Charlie Gordon (Gordon Pasha) during his riences, unless we do a little hunting from war to regain the Sudan for the British. Had Metemma. Jack shot two hartebeests along dinner with Emery and Gordon and returned the trail this forenoon. I put up my 1,800th at midnight. Our motorcars are coming, and specimen today and am all prepared to quit we will get them in two or three days.

102 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3

April 21: We are still in Gallabat, as the April 25: We left Gedaref the next morning truck which came was just a Ford box and as Captain Ingleston, the District Com- too small to carry our equipment. We have missioner, helped us secure motors, two all the cars loaded with baggage and hope to lorries, and two cars, and the Greek trader, get off tomorrow. It has been very hot, so we to whom we had a letter from Sandford, have spent the time playing bridge with the came through with the money. All treated us two Englishmen. very well. We traveled 11 hours over a very flat country, absolutely without water—for The motorcars finally arrived, and our caravan the most part, just a monotonous stretch of men were packed to start their long return journey to treeless, sun-baked plains. We had numer- Addis Ababa, a little worried about the reports of shiftas ous punctures, etc., and so made very poor making raids in the area they were to traverse. Our young time. Temperatures 115 degrees in the shade! interpreter made a request for a chop box—containers Saw a few small gazelle (tufted fronted?) that had carried our food, two boxes to a mule, and in but game is very scarce. Saw many guinea short supply because I used them as soon as empty to fowl; the white-crested crow is very common. pack my specimens for shipment to Chicago. Our man This region is devoid of population at this had been so helpful, however, that by considerable effort, time of year. Saw several abandoned vil- I was able to cram a couple boxes, making one free; he lages, the people having moved to water. We thanked me and carried the empty container away on came to many upheavals, small mountains his head. Soon he was back and, with a smile, said, “Mr. that rose abruptly from the flat plain, the Bailey, the box is just what I needed. Now if you give me great, rounded boulders being piled one on a nice present, I will put it in the box!” Needless to say, another. The sun beat upon the baked earth such frankness had its reward, and we presented him and heat waves rose to the horizon. Mirages with a .45 revolver, and our other personal boys were extended ahead—vast marshes with reed- given gifts of equal value. grown borders—the cars ahead apparently It was a rather sad parting the morning of April 24 plunging through water, while the wheels as we started our journey across the Egyptian Sudan. Our threw clouds of dust. All in all, it was a hot, syces and tent boys stood off at a distance and watched as monotonous trip. our two vans and two motor cars pulled out of Gallabat. Reached a little waterhole, El Faro, Dabba, the main interpreter who had accompanied Fuertes in a small valley between hills and used up and Osgood on their trips, and the Somali, Ali, accompa- the water as fast as it drained in to fill our nied us. We stopped briefly to have coffee with Emery and cans. Traveled until about 8:00 and then Gordon and were then on our way, passing through Doka, camped along the road, as two of our cars where there were a couple wells, and during the day, we had no lights. We were on the way again at had eight punctures or blowouts. It was necessary to take 4:30 a.m. and soon entered a wooded region off the tires, patch the inner tubes, and then blow them that borders the Blue Nile. Villages became up when replaced upon the rims. One, just at noon when common, the Arabs coming out to watch us the overhead sun cast a black shadow directly beneath the as we passed. The people here are brown, like car, caused a little trouble. Ali was working and perspiring the Gallas, and not black, and appear jovial and, as I stood by, he mopped his brow, looked up at the and not quarrelsome, as the Abyssinians. We sun and commented, “The sun, he very close.” We arrived see many with scars on their faces, the three at Gedaref about 8:00 and were met by several hospitable in a line, indicating the people who stood by Englishmen in charge of an Arab corporation. General Gordon.

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We came to the Blue Nile, now but a soil. There are blocks of one-storied, brick ribbon of green water in a wide, deep valley, buildings as well as an interesting native with a great sand flat on the eastern bank. market. Met several Englishmen and gave There must be a torrent of water during the Tinish to one of them, as she was too much rains. Porters met us on the east bank and of a pest. Went to a polo match in the evening. carried our luggage to the river, half-naked fellows who shouldered our heaviest pack- As noted above, we gave Tinish away. I had rather ages easily. Numerous white-robed, bearded planned to take her home for my daughters but realized Arabs came by upon mules, women with that she would be a nuisance and, when larger, might loads on their heads. In fact, it was the usual injure one of them. We were all fond of the little dog-face crowd of the east. Our luggage was ferried who had provided much entertainment during our long across in dhows and taken to the depot in the trek, and I took a photo of the little beast upon Louie town of Wad Madani. We stopped at the Ghira Fuertes’ shoulder (Fig. 3.64). (This may well have been Hotel, a very fine place for a mid-African the last field photo of the great artist. Four months later, town; took all our baggage to the depot, etc. August 22, 1927, he was killed at a rail crossing.) We found no train until tomorrow. Wad Madani is quite a large place with a April 26: Left Wad Madani at 11:00 and arrived population of 400 whites or English. This is a at Khartoum at 5:00. The country is absolutely center of cotton raising, the fine, long-fibered level, with great areas of cotton. Sun out cotton growing luxuriantly in the irrigated of a cloudless sky—heat waves—whirling

Figure 3.64. Louis Fuertes and Tinish at Wad Madani, Egyptian Sudan, April 25, 1927. DMNS No. IV.BA26-025.

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devils—mirages. Camels in mirages looked Khartoum is a large place with wide, as if they were wading in water but kicked up clean streets; it is very hot and dry, as but dust. Train very comfortable. Khartoum is cel- little rain falls during the whole year. At this ebrating an Egyptian holiday, so all stores are time of year, most of the people have gone on closed. Clean town with wide streets, ochre- their vacations and there is but little social colored houses, carriages, and cars—and a activity. We called on Captain Brocklehurst, narrow-gauge streetcar service. Stopped at the game warden at the zoo, and met Major the Grand Hotel on the banks of the Blue Nile. Barker, who took the “giant bushbuck.” I A rambling structure with great palms. Fine photo’d in the zoo, getting good studies of the little zoological garden with many African Nubian ibex, Addax, and addra gazelles, as mammals. Strong breeze blows sand from the well as a couple of species of small gazelles. desert, and sandstorms are a common thing Khartoum is a pleasant place, and we have here. Found our trunks from Addis o.k. and not found the time too heavy on our hands. have all our baggage here. Took films to be Last evening we took a car and rode along developed in the afternoon. the Blue Nile, crossed on a ferry at the mouth of the Blue Nile into the White Nile, and over I spent the next two days in a hospital in Khartoum, to Omdurman. Visited the market, Mahdi’s for I realized I had a tapeworm, a common parasite in tomb, etc., typical stuff for tourists. In the Abyssinia where raw meat is a part of the daily diet. I evening, we went to the home of government looked back on the raw meat festival given by Ras Hailu entomologist and curator of the museum, Mr. as the probable source of my guest. Many of our men King, where we had dinner. Then to the home had been similarly inflicted, for they were constantly of a man who did the survey work on Lake asking us for medicine that would purge them. Unfortu- Tsana for the dam project, and he showed nately, my treatment was unsuccessful in that the head us his slides. We were all weary when we remained, the segments passed being so large I called the returned, for we did not get back until after animal by the Amharic name “Tidlik.” Although several 12:00, when 9:00 has been our accustomed attempts were made during the next few years to get rid bedtime. We leave at 10:00 something this of the beast, I had no luck, and finally decided to live morning for Cairo, and a week later will see with him, and did so for 13 years. When I called on my us in Italy. Our trip can now be considered friends at the Field Museum during this time, instead of over, and we are on our way home. asking regarding my health, they were solicitous and Our live geladas are going to Port asked, “How’s Tidlik?” Eventually, my parasite left me Sudan in Ali’s care and will go out on a North and I no longer felt like a walking aquarium. German Lloyd vessel to Hamburg and will be re-shipped to New York and Chicago. May 1: We have been in Khartoum five days, as the trains to Wadi Halfa run but twice a We left Khartoum by train at 10:50 on Sunday, May week, Wednesdays and Sundays. We first 1st, crossed the Blue Nile, and traveled all day across a attended to the packing of specimens; a car- flat, scrub-grown desert. A little rain had fallen in the penter was hired and 22 cases were packed, vicinity, and there were great conical upheavals of wind- three boxes made for the live baboons. Also, and-sand-cut boulders. We reached Atbara at dark at had all the photographs developed at an the mouth of the Atbara River, a large stream for a few expense of $38. Did an excellent job for such months after the Abyssinian rains and then, we were told, a hot climate. just a series of potholes. The train then cut across the

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great loop made by the Nile over an arm of the Nubian The temples were about ten miles inside Egypt from the Desert, continuing all night and until noon the next day, Egyptian-Sudan border. May 2nd, to Wadi Halfa, a rather large place where we On May 3 we continued gliding down the transferred to a paddle-wheel boat for two days down the Nile—sterile, rocky hills to the east and the yellow Nile. Halfa was picturesque with a beautiful waterfront copper-colored sand and rock desert on the west. Date of date palms. The rather large buildings were lightly palms lined the banks, but no vegetation grew beyond 100 colored with pink and blue and framed among the dark yards from the river. As we plowed downstream, the water green of palms with the waving fronds often mirrored in seemed higher—nearer the high-water level—and then the gray-green waters of the Nile. we realized we were in the backwater from the Aswan Dam. The water became deeper, flooding the agricultural Down the Nile, May 2–18, 1927 areas and villages so that the long row of palms that There were about 25 passengers on the little steamer, and used to line the banks was far offshore, with only half the it was very comfortable. We dropped downstream rapidly, trees exposed. All seemed to be alive and doing well. The occasionally becoming stranded on a sandbar. Numer- government had paid the people for their lands, and they ous sandpipers and plovers worked along the shore, and had built new homes higher up on the bank—the houses waterwheels lined the bank here and there, the oxen con- very numerous, the banks of the Nile being practically tinually circling to draw up the endless chain of buckets, a continuous village. Every little way there were white the water being used to irrigate a 50-foot strip of growth huts—tombs of sheikhs, which stood out in refreshing and the date palms. relief from the monotonous mud color of the usual build- Numerous small boats, with peculiar wide bows, ings. We stopped about 5:00 and took a walk ashore, as were observed sailing rapidly upstream, and at dark, we were ahead of our schedule, and noted that beyond our vessel was headed to the left shore. After dinner, the Nile bank, extending to the distant horizon, was a we landed to visit the two temples of Abu Simbel, large waste of sand and small, twisted, and unweathered lava, chambers carved from solid limestone or other soft rock. which looked fresh from the flow. Very few birds were Electric lights, which had been strung in the chambers, seen. An occasional crocodile was in the water, and one were attached to the boat for power. The temples were on land. We traveled off and on during the night of the carved in a high hill, the front having two colossal 3rd. In the early morning of May 4th, we reached El Shellal figures on either side of the doorway, which could be seen just above the Aswan Dam, a mass of granite 1 1/4 miles but faintly with the aid of my flashlight. A large doorway long above the town of Aswan. Great piles of rock lined gave access to the first great chamber with a flat ceiling the shores, a veritable chain of granite mountains. The 40 feet up, and four gigantic, full-faced figures lined Temples of Philae and El Shellal were nearly submerged the hallway on both sides, while little alcoves extended by the waters backed up by the dam, 45 feet of water being beyond. The walls were crowded with drawings and over the bases. With plenty of time on our hands, we took inscriptions, and other small rooms—like burial vaults native boats and visited the dam and the ruins. —extended from these, low-ceilinged rooms, the walls Our train for Cairo left at noon, and we soon entered covered with writing and drawings. The dry climate of better-looking country, for the great flats were irrigated Egypt, of course, was responsible for the excellent state of below Aswan and grew luxuriant crops. We were at Luxor preservation, the temples having been built by Ramses II at 6:30 p.m., near the “Valley of the Kings,” which we about 1250 B.C. Two other chambers extended one after would have liked to visit but lack of time prevented. the other from the first imposing hallway, but there was Arriving at Cairo about 7:30 the morning of March 5th, nothing so interesting, at least to the uninitiated, as the we checked in at the Shepheard’s Hotel, and in my notes great figures in the first hallway. In the end room were I recorded: “Cairo is a modern city of 1,000,000 people, several seated figures, some ten to fifteen feet in height. and, except for the red fezzes, one would imagine he is

106 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 Life of a Museum Naturalist vol. 3 in Paris. City very clean—500 mosques—veiled ladies. the peasants worked steadily, usually with a We took the conventional trips to the Pyramids, Citadel, hoe, without looking up as the train sped by. Mosques, Egyptian museum to see King Tut material just Arrived in Paris at 2:45, and Jack was met by placed on display.” his wife. Suydam and I checked in at the Lotti Our group had especially looked forward to seeing Hotel on the Rue Castiglione, and I went to the material in the Egyptian museum secured from the the French Line immediately and made res- tomb of the boy pharaoh Tutankhamen that had been ervations on the France sailing from Havre discovered in 1922 by archaeologist Howard Carter after the next day, May 11th. a search of 30 years. The find had been considered the Cutting and I attended the Folies greatest archaeological discovery of all time, the tomb Bergère in the evening, and I fought off a of four rooms having been untouched by vandals. Dr. bad cold. Had lunch with Jack and wife and Osgood had been personally acquainted with Carter, and Suydam, bought dolls for my youngsters, and museum officials showed us the mummy of “King Tut” left on the boat train for Havre at 4:30. Arrived and the beautiful gold ornaments and other archaeo- about 8:00 and found the France a beautiful logical treasures taken from the tomb. vessel, well deserving the reputation it has for luxury, service, and speed. We left at To finish the Abyssinian notes—we left Cairo 9:00 and were off Plymouth in the forenoon, May 6th, arriving at Alexandria about 10:30, putting out to sea about 8:00. We ran to the and left at noon, or thereabouts, on the Lloyd northward of our course, sighting the coast Triestino boat Helouan for Brindisi, Italy. of Ireland, on the lookout for the lost avia- This was a very fine vessel with excellent tors Nungesser and Coli. We had a smooth service. The Mediterranean was smooth the passage the entire way, arriving off New York entire crossing and the days overcast, so it early the morning of May 18th. Went to the was delightfully cool in contrast to the 115 American Museum and saw Miller, Clark, degrees we had experienced in the Sudan. Jonas, Chapman, etc., and pulled out on the Arrived at Brindisi May 8th, the crossing taking Century at 2:45. Chicago at 9:45 a.m. and but two days. This was a fairly large city on then to the museum, where the boys gave me the heel of the boot of Italy. The streets are a good welcome. All the specimens seem to wonderfully clean. Myriads of children play have come in excellently. I saw Mr. Davies at in the roadway, and flocks of milk goats are the Chicago Club, and he seemed more than driven from doorstep to doorstep, where they satisfied, introduced me to his friends, and are milked. The lack of automobiles is very told them my next trip was the Roosevelt- noticeable. We left Brindisi at 4:30 for Rome Kelly expedition to Indo-China, and gave me and arrived there about 8:30. Saw the Aque- until June 15th at home, should I desire it. ducts, Colosseum, Arch of Triumph, etc., and Left at 5:33 for Iowa City, and arrived home drove about the city. Osgood and Fuertes went at 11:40 p.m. And all was well. So ended my to Florence, while Suydam, Jack, and I left for first African trip. Paris at noon on the fast express. The Italian countryside is beautiful with old castles, pos- sibly Roman ruins, upon the hilltops, and the towns clustered together as though for protection, instead of straggling all over as do our towns. The fields were neatly laid, and

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References

Bailey, A.M. 1925–1926. A report on the birds of northwestern Alaska and regions adjacent to the Bering Strait. 10 parts. Condor 27: 20–32, 62–67, 101–109, 164–171, 197–207, 232–238; 28: 31–36, 84–86, 121–126, 165–170. Bailey, A.M. & Niedrach, R.J. 1965. Birds of Colorado. Denver: Denver Museum of Natural History. 2 Vols. xxii, 895 p. Barbour, T. 1923. Another new Bahaman iguana (Cyclura figginsi). Proceedings of the New England Zoologi- cal Club 8: 107–109. Baum, J.E. 1927. Savage Abyssinia. New York: J.H. Sears, p. 275. Fuertes, L.A. 1930. Album of Abyssinian Birds and Mammals. Chicago: Field Museum. 32 pp. Fuertes, L.A. & Osgood, W.H. 1936. Artist and Naturalist in Ethiopia. Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday, Doran & Co. 249 pp. Miller, F.W. 1928. A new white-tailed deer from Louisiana (Odocoileus virginianus mcilhennyi). Journal of Mammalogy 9: 57–59. Osgood, W.H. 1928. Nature and man in Ethiopia. National Geographic 54: 121–176. Osgood, W.H. 1936. New and imperfectly known small mammals from Africa. Zoological Series of Field Museum of Natural History 20(21): 217–256. Rey, C.F. 1924. Unconquered Abyssinia as it is to-day. Philadelphia: Lippincott. 312 pp.

Note: All images in this publication not otherwise credited were taken by Dr. Bailey.

108 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS | No. 14, March 20, 2019 DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS THE FORTUNATE OF A MUSEUM LIFE NATURALIST: ALFRED M. BAILEY DENVER MUSEUM OF NATURE & SCIENCE REPORTS

NUMBER 14, MARCH 20, 2019

WWW.DMNS.ORG/SCIENCE/MUSEUM-PUBLICATIONS Denver Museum of Nature & Science Reports 2001 Colorado Boulevard (Print) ISSN 2374-7730 Denver, CO 80205, U.S.A. Denver Museum of Nature & Science Reports (Online) ISSN 2374-7749

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Cover photo: A.M. Bailey on Field Museum expedition, Abyssinia, 1927. Photographer unknown. DMNS No. IV.BA26-133.

The Denver Museum of Nature & Science Reports (ISSN 2374-7730 [print], ISSN 2374-7749 [online]) is an open- access, non peer-reviewed scientifi c journal publishing papers about DMNS research, collections, or other Museum related topics, generally authored or co-authored The Fortunate Life of a Museum Naturalist: by Museum staff or associates. Peer review will only be arranged on request of the authors. REPORTS Alfred M. Bailey

The journal is available online at science.dmns.org/ • NUMBER 14 MARCH 20, 2019 Volume 3—1922–1927 museum-publications free of charge. Paper copies are exchanged via the DMNS Library exchange program ([email protected]) or are available for purchase from our print-on-demand publisher Lulu (www.lulu.com). Kristine A. Haglund, Elizabeth H. Clancy DMNS owns the copyright of the works published in the & Katherine B. Gully (Eds) Reports, which are published under the Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial license. For commercial use of published material contact the Alfred M. Bailey Library &

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Wulda, A.M. Bailey, and Allamayu, Field Museum Expedition, Abyssinia, 1926–1927. Photographer unknown. DMNS No. IV.BA26-145.