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How to Feed Friends and Influence People

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How to Feed Friends and Influence People How to Feed Friends and Influence People How to Feed Friends and Influence People THE CARNEGIE DELI A Giant Sandwich, a Little Deli, a Huge Success Milton Parker Owner of The Carnegie Deli and Allyn Freeman JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC. Copyright © 2005 by Milton Parker. All rights reserved. Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. Published simultaneously in Canada. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 646-8600, or on the web at www.copyright.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, (201) 748-6011, fax (201) 748-6008. Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the publisher and author have used their best efforts in preparing this book, they make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and specifically disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales representatives or written sales materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation. The publisher is not engaged in rendering professional services, and you should consult a professional where appropriate. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages. For general information on our other products and services please contact our Customer Care Department within the United States at (800) 762-2974, outside the United States at (317) 572-3993 or fax (317) 572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. For more information about Wiley products, visit our web site at www.wiley.com. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data: Parker, Milton, 1919– How to feed friends and influence people: the Carnegie Deli—a giant sandwich, a little deli, a huge success / Milton Parker, Allyn Freeman. p. cm. ISBN 0-471-68056-7 (cloth) 1. Carnegie Deli (Restaurant). 2. Cookery, Jewish. I. Freeman, Allyn. II. Title. TX945.5.C35P37 2005 641.5′09747′1—dc22 2004016487 Printed in the United States of America. 10 987654321 CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xi COURSE 1 DOING BUSINESS THE CARNEGIE DELI WAY 1 Carnegie Deli: Business 101 2 A Chronology of Jewish or Deli Food in the USA 4 1937: The Opening 5 1942 to 1976: Carnegie Max Hudes 6 1976: The Deli House That Leo and Milton Built 7 1979: You’re the Tops! 8 1983: Broadway Danny Rose 14 1983: Deli Williamsburg Bridge 15 1986: One Order, Cash to Go 16 1986: Statue of Chopped Liver-Ty 17 1987: Yes, Virginia, There Is a Carnegie Deli 17 COURSE 2 LEO STEINER, OWNER: “INTO THE DELI LIMELIGHT”19 Take Over the Carnegie 21 The Arnold’s Bread Commercial 22 “Plain and Simply Wonderful” 23 Have a Nice Sandwich 23 Expansion 25 v vi CONTENTS Exit Leo 25 The Deli Food Quiz 27 Appetizers, Side Dishes, and Sauces 29 Chopped Liver 35 Kasha Varnishkas 36 Barley Soup 37 Matzoh Ball Soup 38 Kreplach with Meat 39 Knish 40 COURSE 3 HENNY YOUNGMAN: KING OF THE ONE-LINERS 41 Wayne Lammers, Waiter: “The Deli Music Man” 44 COURSE 4 MILTON PARKER, OWNER: “HARD WORK AND GOOD LUCK”47 Leo Meets Milton 49 Pressing the Partnership 49 Parker Pens His Own Name 51 Handling the Deli Crowd 52 The Smart Moves 53 Other Carnegie Delis in the Country 54 Still Going Strong 56 Summing Up a Career 57 Deli Slang 58 1981: Pastrami Sandwich to the Rescue 59 1988: Big Tex Meets Big Sandwich 61 1988: Pastrami at Ten Paces 63 1989 to 1994: Going Hollywood 70 1991: Simon Says 74 CONTENTS vii 1999: Omaha Steaks 76 2000: Hold That Line 79 2001: Murder above the Deli 82 2003: Light in the Darkness 83 1988 to 2004: Promotions and Awards 88 The Bagel 90 Annie Smith, Waitress: “Attack of the Decaf Gotchas” 96 Bagels, Lox, and Cream Cheese 97 COURSE 5 JACK SIROTA, WAITER: “LAST OF THE ORIGINALS” 101 Come to the Carnegie 103 Enter Steiner and Parker 104 Celebrity Serving 104 The Life of the Waiter 106 Rasmee Ruenanukool, Waitress: “Lady of Smiles” 108 Muriel Caraballo, Waitress: “CBS NFL Warm-Up” 109 Meats of the Deli World 110 Beef Flanken 116 Corned Beef or Pastrami Hash 117 Chicken Consommé and Chicken in the Pot 118 Chicken Paprikash Casserole 119 Stuffed Cabbage 120 Brisket of Beef 121 2004: Pickle-Eating Contest 122 COURSE 6 SANDY LEVINE, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF RETAIL AND MBD: “THE HAPPY DELI MAN” 123 Bring in the Civilian 124 Sandy as the Managing Director 126 viii CONTENTS The Sandy System 127 Media Appearances and Articles 128 Mr. Personality 128 He Loves the Job 129 COURSE 7 MARIAN PARKER LEVINE, DAUGHTER AND WIFE: “ALL IN THE DELI FAMILY” 131 2004: The Levines’ Vacations 134 COURSE 8 JEFF JENSEN, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF WHOLESALE: “MR. CONTENTMENT AT THE COMMISSARY” 137 Back in the United States 139 Come to the Carnegie 140 Jeff Can Get It for You Wholesale 141 The Satisfied Executive 142 Desserts of the Deli World 144 Cheesecake 146 Rugelach Cookies 148 Noodle Pudding with Apples 149 Cheese Blintzes 150 Apple Strudel 151 Walter Bell, Counterman: “Constructing the Big Sandwich” 152 Fernando Perez, Cook: “Cooking the Carnegie Way” 153 COURSE 9 JOEL SIEGEL, DINER: “LOVING THE DELI LIFE” 157 Manhattan 158 CONTENTS ix Carnegie Deli Time 159 Genuine Brooklyn Egg Cream Recipe 161 Susan Palmaccio, Waitress: “When She’s Smiling” 163 The Delicatessen Quiz 165 IT’S CLOSING TIME 167 ABOUT THE ARTIST 169 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS he authors wish to thank the following people who helped with this book: • Carnegie Deli Management: Sandy Levine encouraged T the work from the beginning and was particularly cooperative making information available and scheduling staff interviews. Jeff Jensen gave instructive Commissary tours, provided recipes, and was helpful with cured meat information. Marian Parker Levine supplied wonderful an- ecdotes. Others who lent a hand were Irving Parker, Henry Carlen, and Patricia Cruz. • Carnegie Deli Staff: Foremost is waiter Jack Sirota who sup- plied stories old and new and related celebrity tales. Other staff interviewed who shared memories were Cook Fernando Perez, Senior Counterman Walter Bell, and Servers Wayne Lammers, Muriel Caraballo, Susan Palmaccio, Rasmee Ruenanukool, and Annie Smith. Valuable information came from Kay Siricharoen and Cook Mickey Ayala. Thanks to everyone else at the Carnegie Deli and the Commissary. • Old Memories: Herbert Hudes and Ilene Hudes Deines. • Luminary Interviews: We are indebted to Joel Siegel at ABC and Bob Simon at CBS. Special appreciation to Mimi Sher- aton, who graciously recalled Leo Steiner memories. Noted attorney Raoul Felder was also helpful. Rabbi Alvin Kass recounted two superb stories. • Restaurateurs and Food People: Heartfelt thanks to Bob Orzo of Hudson Bagels and to Bal Golden, former owner of the As- sembly Steak House. At Omaha Steaks, Steve Simon, Jackie xi xii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Thompson, and Beth Weiss offered memories and helpful information. We picked a peck of pickle stories from Steve Leibowitz at United Pickle Company. • Media: We are grateful to writers Steve Viuker and Jennifer Nelson, and photographers Nanine Hartzenbusch and Pete Levin. • Deli Maven: Composer Michael Isaacson was on hand 24/7 for questions about deli food and deli decor. His Brooklyn Egg Cream recipe can be found inside the book. • Friends: Attorney Fred Waxman deserves special considera- tion. Encouragement came also from Ruth Mills, Janice Lee, Susan and Richard Lewis, Ann and Bob Gorman, Mardee Cavallero, Judy Goldsmith, Steve Berkenfeld, Pat and Charles Clarkson, Deanie and Jay Stein, Carrie and Bill Rosenthal, Ann Patch, Cynthia Jenner, Carol and Martin Taffet, Marcia Shrock, Laura and Doug Fielding, Fran Panasci, Nicole Davis, John Clarkson, The Murphy Clan of Dingle, Deb Green, Bob Golden, Kathy Green, Rochelle and John Schofield, Marian and Ted Last, Diane Kane Yamada, Hunan Pan, Sazerac House, and appreciative resident deli tasters, Jeff Chase and Basil di Cano. • John Wiley & Sons, Inc.: The book was the brilliant idea of Senior Editor Matt Holt to whom all praise is due. Tamara Hummel offered wonderful assistance. Jo-Ann Wasserman maintained a keen deli interest throughout. Linda Indig managed the production of the book from start to finish. From Milton Parker: Special gratitude to my wife Mildred, son Jeffery, daughter Marian, and granddaughter Sarri. From Allyn Freeman: Without founder Milton Parker, there would be no Carnegie Deli today and no Carnegie Deli book. A warm thank you to Sandy, Marian, Jeff, and the entire deli staff. And special thanks to Chuck Smith. How to Feed Friends and Influence People COURSE 1 DOING BUSINESS THE CARNEGIE DELI WAY he Carnegie Deli has become a successful commercial enterprise because it has operated on sound business principles. Today, it is an internationally recognized Tbrand known to both New Yorkers and tourists as a must stop. In 1937, the deli embarked on a 67-year journey to progress from a modest 92-seat restaurant to a national award-winning delicatessen. It has been featured prominently and often on the Food Channel cable network, television shows, and also in do- mestic and foreign magazines and newspapers.
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    COURSE 1 DOING BUSINESS THE CARNEGIE DELI WAY he Carnegie Deli has become a successful commercial enterprise because it has operated on sound business principles. Today, it is an internationally recognized Tbrand known to both New Yorkers and tourists as a must stop. In 1937, the deli embarked on a 67-year journey to progress from a modest 92-seat restaurant to a national award-winning delicatessen. It has been featured prominently and often on the Food Channel cable network, television shows, and also in do- mestic and foreign magazines and newspapers. When the media want to wax nostalgic about delicatessen food, the Carnegie Deli always comes to mind. Leo COPYRIGHTEDSteiner and Milton Parker, MATERIALthe partners responsible for the restaurant’s success, had no million-dollar revenue stars in their eyes. Their initial goal was simple: to make a de- cent profit at the end of the day. Parker has said, “If we were left with more cash at the end of the week, we considered the deli a success.” 1 2 DOING BUSINESS THE CARNEGIE DELI WAY Of the more than 300 New York-area delis in 1976, when the Carnegie changed hands, only 30 exist today because din- ing tastes changed over time. In addition, a delicatessen, if run correctly (like the Carnegie), is a 221⁄2-hours-a-day, hands-on operation. Few new restaurateurs have elected to make deli- catessen work their life’s profession. CARNEGIE DELI: BUSINESS 101 What business guidelines has the deli employed over these many years? What are the keys to its commercial success? Why did it survive when so many other famous New York City deli- catessens (e.g., The Madison Avenue Deli, Wolfs on West 57th Street) faded into obscurity? At the outset, the Carnegie Deli—a multimillion-dollar op- eration—has no thick book that contains a Mission Statement or an elaborate, numbers-driven business plan.
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