Norfolk Coast GUARDIAN FREE guideguide to an area ofof outstandingoutstanding naturalnatural beautybeauty 20172017

Up close and free for all Discover the secrets and treasures of our shoreline

Win a holiday Hundreds of events Walks map Teatime recipes 2 A SPECIAL PLACE COAST GUARDIAN 2017 Taking the long view Working together to safeguard a rare place for everyone

ne of Britain’s most pre- those days, funding was under threat. times he has taken into account what to use this fragile area.” cious landscapes, the Nor- Although that improved for a while, the parish representatives have said The area is part of a global network, Precious finds folk Coast area of out- recent pressures have affected us as and sometimes not, but he has always which Tim has been involved in de- Our cover features ‘Three Plovers, standing natural beauty they have the whole public sector.” been fair!” veloping through the National Associ- Ten Shells’ by Robert Gillmor, a isO nationally protected. The Norfolk It might be globally important, but Janice Howell, former parishes ation of AONBs, and the international linocut he made with six blocks in an Coast Partnership, a set of organisa- the area is managed from the ground representative, and Sustainable Devel- Europarc movement, particularly from edition of 28 in 2002. A local artist tions and communities – listed on up, with the people who live and visit opment Fund panel member, agreed: a coastal perspective. Management of of enormous reknown and skill, he page 30 - work to keep it special. key. Tim’s retirement after 20 years “Tim always understood the value of visitors to the area has been a long described the work: “In the corner For the past 20 years, the partner- at the helm prompted colleagues to local input into the management of term challenge – and in the future the of the studio is a small but heavy ship has been led by Tim Venes (pic- reflect on how the partnership has the coast and the experience and long pressures of development and climate plastic bag, which frequently gets tured right). He has been inspired by worked. Chairman Angie Fitch-Til- views which supported it.” change loom. But the Norfolk Coast in the way and is moved on, so it the diverse beauty of the area: “So lett pointed to the emphasis the part- “One of the most effective and area of outstanding natural beauty will is never quite where I think it will many things about the area are spe- nership puts on people: “Community friendly partnerships that I have been remain an area protected for everyone be when needed. It contains the cial: the variety of landscapes and their groups from Winterton to Snettisham involved in,” is how John Hiskett, in the UK and beyond to visit and en- results of casual beachcombing: scale, from the vast expanse of coastal all know Tim throughthrough thethe helphelp Sen- joy – a superb place to understand and interesting pebbles, holes with stone vistas to the intimate river valleys; the and advice he hashas given over ior Conservation Officer appreciate the power and importance round them, brittle starfish, bits of dried seaweed, shells of all kinds, sense of space, wilderness and change the years.” describes the coast part- of the natural world and our place in a mermaid’s purse, tatty feathers, on the coast; the wonderful wildlife; The partnershipership has also nership. “Bringing many it. And the Norfolk Coast Partnership stones with stripes, crab claws, the history and - all the developed. Community interest groups together and staff team will continue to play a bits of crab and more… I wanted way back to early humans.” representative Keith Har-Har- to work toward the vi- vital role in this. to use many of the precious finds To look after the area, he has rison said: “It hashas changedchanged sion of ensuring that the Perhaps the last word should go to in a decorative design, without worked with local communities and completely fromom wwhenhen I area retains natural beauty, Tim: “In the future, I think the Nor- concern for perspective.” Cutting organisations through two decades of started as the EasternEastern parishparish whilst being resilient to folk Coast will continue to change, as Away by Robert Gillmor, published change, including funding challenges: representative visitingvisiting future challenges, such as it has in the past. I hope it will remain by Langford Press Wildlife Art Series “People’s love and knowledge of the Tim in the WellsWells climate change and the a very special place for both the peo- 2006 is available from The Crabpot area and their integrity are a constant office up thee increasing numbers ple who live and work here and those Bookshop, Cley-next-the-Sea. support. I came here in 1997, and in stairs. Some- of visitors seeking who visit it.” NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2017 BE PART UP CLOSE 3 OF IT

GO WILD ‘Random Acts of Wildness’ are easy and free to do and can help you engage with nature wherever you are. Secrets and stories mywildlife.org.uk/

30DaysWild. from your shoreline The Norfolk Coast belongs to us all. It’s a rare and essential place to recharge and relax. This Norfolk Coast Guardian focuses on our own ‘personal coasts’, and a great range of writers share their experiences of how to connect.

P4 We start with the big picture, from sea to sky – marine expert Sam Lew on the marvels of and tourism chief Michael Timewell on the starry firmament from Heath.

The National Trust’s Alex Green Ian Ward / National Trust Ian Ward outlines a chance to be involved by zooming in on the details of this year’s first ever coastal BioBlitz. Wild for the coast P5 Carrie Carey of the RSPB takes Explore land, sea, sky and earth at the edge of Norfolk and you may us on a year-round trip through discover the boundary between you and the wild is not where you . expected, says David North P6 ildness as far as and skylarks, little more than dark To me these marshes seem as tru- you can see’, that’s feathered dots in blue skies, cascade ly wild as anywhere on earth and to not a bad descrip- their songs to earth-bound listeners. spend time listening, looking, smell- Meet some characters from the tion of parts of There are smells and colours too: ing, touching and wondering at them coastal past like Sam Larner (right) ‘Wour fabulous Norfolk coast. In busy, nowhere smells of sea, wind, tide and is a privilege. with author Peter Tolhurst. densely populated, bustling mud in quite the same way as these There is much talk today of the P8 places that feel this wild are rare and vast, life-filled plains of samphire benefits of ‘mindfulness’ as a way of deserve to be valued, guarded and pro- and purslane; and the colours of this coping with the seemingly ever-in- tected. marshland tapestry change moment to creasing stresses and strains of modern Find out how you can be part of the I love the squidgy, oozy, muddy, moment – ask any photographer or life. But ‘wildfulness’ - simply spend- future at Horsey. Then also read about saltmarsh wildernesses with their artist why they keep coming back and ing time in nature - can also bring new walking, cycling and camping snaking, sinuous channels that fill and they will probably say ‘the light’. great rewards. Our Norfolk coast and opportunities (p13) and a fantastic empty on each tide - tides that leave its many diverse wild landscapes of new international art exhibition (p14). behind mazes of shallow mirror-like sand, sea, shingle, mud and marsh is a Full what’s on listings and food pages pools that reflect the vast skies that NORFOLK great place to gain a sense of perspec- complete the experience. arch over these flat tidal saltings. COAST tive, to see things both literally and P11 I love the strange patterns of these PARTNERSHIP metaphorically in a new light. IN ACTION marshes that can only truly be appre- We open ourselves to details in the ciated from a bird’s-eye view. There are Online updates landscape that we might otherwise Around the coast by patterns too that can only be viewed miss by spending quiet time, sitting foot, pedal and rail close-up: the trammel lines ploughed Ever wanted to find a great off the or walking, listening and looking. By through the mud by feeding shelduck, beaten track walk? Wondered where doing this we often become aware of Our new map by illustrator Kate the dainty star footprints of redshank, to buy freshly caught fish? Looked patterns, from tiny detail to landscape Dougan shows how the Norfolk the spaghetti-casts left behind by lug for information on where to find scale, and literally begin to tune-in to Coast area of outstanding natural worms. a café, pub, restaurant, day out – the sounds, smells and textures of na- beauty fits into Norfolk. The area’s Then there are the sounds - spine- even a public loo? Look no further ture around us. land and intertidal areas are P16 tingling calls of curlew, raucous cries than the Norfolk Coast Partnership Whether you are visiting, or live shaded darker green and blue; the of black-headed gulls, and the full- website at norfolkcoastaonb.org.uk locally, find an excuse to come and neighbouring Broads national park throated, head back ‘desert island discs’ Here you will find useful, up to date walk the great shingle, marshy and is shaded too – as is where the two and National Cycle Routes. It clamour of the herring gulls. information, including: sandy edge of Norfolk and explore overlap, between and also features information centres, Every season the marshes have a • An active map to help you the boundaries between land, sea, sky Winterton! railways and heritage railways. plan your day – including all new soundtrack: in winter the Slavic and earth. In doing so you may be- For the first time all the major As it is not to scale and does sort of searchable information purring of great gatherings of brent gin to discover your own connection walking routes of the coast are not show every settlement, it is • Cycle routes – on and off road, recommended you use it alongside geese and the higher-pitched clamour to the timeless cycle of tide, sky and shown. The emphasis is on showing with loops and links the many major walking and cycling more detailed mapping. of their Icelandic cousins, the pink- season and discover that the boundary • Accessible routes for those in routes – Norfolk Trails, National norfolk.gov.uk/out-and-about- feet, as they wing their way in great between you and the wild is perhaps wheelchairs, pushchairs and Trails, the Norfolk Coast Cycleway in-norfolk sky-lines between marsh and land. with other needs not where you expected. In spring redshanks trill, mark- • Easy to access information Is wildness inside us or outside? ing their territories in wing-flicking about local nature, from dunes Like what you read? Articles are now shareable flights, while lapwings perform aero- and to wood pasture online at norfolkcoastguardian.co.uknorfo or follow us batics accompanied by strange electro- and parkland David North is head of People and on twitterr @norfolkaonb acoustic cries. In summer bees hum Wildlife at Norfolk Wildlife Trust 4 UP CLOSE NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2017

Salt marsh and (inset) Marsh Harrier. Robert Enderby, Wildlife Trust All at sea The Norfolk coast’s neighbourur is a vast and incredible marine protected area stretching across ththe WWash h and d NNorth th NNorfolk f lk coast.t Sam Lew explains how local people have been key to protecting it

e are the natural environ- under this designation. ment. It’s in our lungs, Although there are legal du- W our blood, our bellies, our ties placed on various authorities minds and our hearts. It sustains us to protect these sites, an essential physically, psychologically and spir- working principle is that human itually and it is our home. activities occur in conjunction with Over the last century or so our conservation to ensure that liveli- house-keeping, on a planetary scale, hoods and the region’s rich cultural has left a lot to be desired. Through and historical heritage are protected global warming, mass species extinc- alongside the natural environment. tion, unprecedented levels of pollu- This is enabled by three ‘Advisory tion and unsustainable exploitation Groups’ that provide a platform for of our planet’s resources, we are the local community to participate in driving a wedge between humanity INTRODUCING SAM LEW marine and coastal management and and the earth we hold so dear. In re- I started my working career at for the regulatory bodies to benefit sponse, the conservation movement the age of fourteen in an aquatic from the wealth of local expertise. It was born. store. I was obsessed with fish is the active partnerships between the Zooming in The Wash and keeping and as a boy had wall regulators and community, formed Coast is one of the last remaining to wall aquaria in my bedroom, through the Advisory Groups at This year’s coastal Bioblitz is set to be natural wildernesses of England and breeding fish from all over the Boston, King’s Lynn and Wells-next- has been embraced by this move- world. After working as a chef and the-Sea that have led to international house builder, at 21 I enrolled on Norfolk’s largest-ever wildlife survey, ment, boasting the full complement recognition of the Wash and North a university access programme of UK and European designations Norfolk Coast as an exemplar in so I could go on to study marine says Alex Green for nature conservation, although biology with oceanography on a marine protected area management. not without controversy. To be part three year course. Ten years later These three jewels in the crown and of this movement is to participate in I graduated with a PhD from the the people that keep them securely ver the course of one ings may well determine the conser- a global effort to protect the natural National Oceanography Centre in place are inseparable parts of the weekend this summer vation management needs of the coast environment for present and future Southampton. I have worked natural environment and the man- individuals and commu- and plans can be adapted accordingly. generations of all life. on a number of community agement approach needed to ensure nities will be able to take In 2015 the National Trust hosted A cluster of conservation areas long-term protection for the Wash partO in the largest wildlife survey ever Bioblitz surveys in 25 coastal locations waste management projects and along the Wash and North Nor- developed community educational and North Norfolk Coast. carried out in Norfolk. around England, Wales and North- folk Coast connects the region to nature reserves. I’m looking forward It is important for us all to rec- A partnership of nature conserva- ern Ireland. Two sites at a Europe-wide family of marine to working with communities in ognise the role we must play in the tion teams made up of the National and Blakeney came first and second protected areas that conserve rare, my new role at the Wash & North protection of this unique and very Trust, Norfolk Wildlife Trust, RSPB, respectively for the record of species threatened and endangered species Norfolk Coast European Marine site. special coastline. The fragility of the Natural England and the found; showing just how valuable and and habitats considered important at Wash and North Norfolk Coast Estate, supported by the Norfolk important the Norfolk coast is for na- the biogeographical scale of Europe. swept Gibraltar Point to the golden means it is sensitive to many recrea- Coast Partnership, will come together ture conservation and richness of bio- Despite the obvious controversies it cliffs of Weybourne in North Nor- tional activities and we all must learn to hold a BioBlitz. This will be a race diversity. These previous surveys also should be remembered that this des- folk, out to the edge of territorial to use the site respectfully to ensure it against time to identify and record recorded a handful of wildlife firsts on ignation is about protecting habitats waters. The region’s iconic saltmarsh- remains the beautifully wild, vast and as many species as possible along the the Norfolk coast. and species, and it is reasonable to as- es, awe-inspiring expanses of mud- delicately intimate place that touches coast over a 24 hour period from Hol- It is hoped that this much larger sume that neither are too concerned flats, sandflats and winding natural all who have the privilege to visit and me-next-the-Sea to . nature survey with other conservation with the politics of the European creeks, salt meadows of sea lavender, call it their home. All discoveries will be recorded and teams, together with the public will Union, let alone know of its exist- seals and bird species including little then submitted to local wildlife record uncover many more wildlife treasures ence. terns, marsh harriers, ringed plover, Sam Lew is the Wash and North centres and the National Biodiver- that may have been previously un- This European Marine Site oyster catcher, knot and brent geese Norfolk Coast European Marine sity Network to help understand how known. stretches from Lincolnshire’s wind- to name but a few are all protected Site manager wildlife along the coast is changing “We want the public to get in- and how best to protect it. The find- volved and join us identifying plants NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2017 UP CLOSE 5

A shining example

Kelling Heath Holiday Park enjoys standing out from the crowd: not only is it set amidst heathland – one of the rarest habitats of all – it also enjoys dark skies. Michael Timewell explains how they keep it that way.

elling Heath Holiday Park has a commonly not a part of the Norfolk very specific policy on external landscape. Lights would suburbanise K lighting anywhere except its the woodland and heathland, changing Village Square and amenity buildings – the atmosphere and ambience that it is kept to the bare minimum! people travel from all over the country The park adjoins , to experience. a Site of Special Scientific Interest. A chance encounter with a young The very character of heathland is five year old guest and his parents one low-growing vegetation with long, summer evening brought home to me open, expansive views and is one of the true value of Kelling Heath’s dark the few areas in Norfolk where it can skies policy. feel as though you have ventured into We were on a nightjar walk but the the wilderness. birds were being elusive so our guide Kelling resists bringing in street said look up at the stars. The little and path lighting because the visual lad cried out “What are those? Wow, impact that lighting would have on fantastic!” The family came from north the Park’s areas of heath and Kelling where heavy light pollution Heath itself would be dramatic and meant the night sky was never visible. detrimental. The light pollution From that moment on we were even would be seen over a large area and more determined to keep our skies as would vastly diminish Kelling Heath’s dark as we possibly can. character of wildness. Kelling Heath hosts two star parties We also take great pride in the fact each year to coincide with the spring that the night sky seen from Kelling and autumn equinoxes. The events see is unspoilt and spectacular. Some of hundreds of stargazers from throughout our night-time wildlife walks looking the UK converging at Kelling Heath to for bats or nightjars pause to take view the night skies. The Park is also in a bit of astronomy, looking at the one of two locations within the area differences between stars, planets and of outstanding natural beauty to have even some of the satellites that can be applied for ‘Dark Sky Discovery Site’ seen moving across the sky. Lighting status – a place that helps local people, on the site would pollute the night sky visitors, schools and groups to enjoy the so that these stars and the associated night sky (see below). constellations would be far less visible. The Park as it is laid out is hugely Michael Timewell is a director popular with visitors and lighting is of Kelling Heath Holiday Park Experts surveying at Brancaster Staithe harbour and a Sea Aster Mining Bee at Blakeney (inset above). Ian Ward / National Trust

NORFOLK COAST and animals in fun activities along the that is at the mercy of the sea with the boundaries so the need for everyone coast. It requires absolutely no prior threat of climate change causing rising to work together to look after this PARTNERSHIP knowledge and we will be encourag- sea levels and more frequent storms. special coastline and its rich biodiver- IN ACTION ing as many people as possible to take Ajay Tegala, National Trust coastal sity has never been greater.” part. Together with the help of nature ranger said: “The north Norfolk coast The sea’s unpredictable power and experts and volunteers we hope to is protected by many national and in- the damage it can cause was brought discover as many species as possible,” ternational nature designations with firmly to the public’s attention on the said Rachael Wright, Cley communi- the whole stretch being a single Spe- night of 5 December 2013, when a ty education officer, Norfolk Wildlife cial Site of Scientific Interest. Even tidal surge of the magnitude not seen Trust. though it is owned and managed by for sixty years caused widespread dev- This much loved stretch of coast- different landowners and organisa- astation along much of the east coast line attracts millions of visitors every tions, each shares the same aim and of England including here on the year to its shores, many of whom visit goal of conserving and preserving the Norfolk coast. We were again remind- Blakeney Quay on a late June evening. Stuart McPherson to experience the fantastic and diverse area for the benefit of the wildlife. But ed of this threat more recently with wildlife found here. But it is a coastline wildlife has no concept of ownership the recent flooding at , Norfolk Wildlife Trust’s flagship re- DARK SKY DISCOVERY SITES serve, this January. Nature is rather resilient and many The Norfolk Coast Partnership has nominated two sites for Dark Sky Discovery of the coastal locations, some of which Site status – Kelling Heath Holiday Park and Down. Both sites have darkness levels comparable to the Forest of Galloway in Scotland – reputed to were under seawater for many weeks, be one of the darkest places in the UK. Kelling Heath holds star parties every soon bounced back and continue to year which attract stargazers from across the country, and carefully manages recover. But in the future increasing the park to stay dark. Meanwhile, Wiveton Down in its elevated position, has extreme weather events are likely to fantastic sightlines for people to get a good view of the night sky. have a significant effect on our wild- Kate Dougan, project officer, said: “Should our applications be successful life. Now is a great opportunity to these sites present a wonderful opportunity to raise awareness and survey every species from the smallest understanding about dark skies and encourage reduction of light pollution. insects to the largest mammals to gain There will be more opportunities for events and for local businesses to benefit a more accurate view of what nature is from ‘astro-tourism’, especially given that the night skies are best enjoyed present on our precious coast. during the winter months. We hope to hear in the coming months whether we have been successful with our nominations and in the meantime are working For more information on the on applications for other sites along the coast.” BioBlitz please see http://bit.ly/ To find out more about Dark Sky Discovery Sites go to NCBioBlitz #NCBioBlitz17 www.darkskydiscovery.org.uk/dark-sky-discovery-sites/map.html. Alex Green is National Trust digital To suggest a site in the AONB suitable for nomination contact media, marketing and interpretation [email protected] A coastline at the mercy of the sea. Ian Ward / National Trust officer 6 UP CLOSE NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2017 So much to see APRIL & MAY Countless birds, amphibians, insects and itchwell Marsh reserve is full of birdsong with resident birds such as blackbirds and robins raising their first brood of the year. Visiting warblers and mammals find T flycatchers have returned from their winter sojourn a home on and add their beautiful melodies to the dawn chorus. Morning song starts early. Usually robins are the first to start singing even before the sun comes up and these are closely followed by the coast, and blackbirds (pictured below), dunnocks and the high pitched trill of the wren. The still morning air of a calm spring day carries Titchwell is a complex and lyrical bird songs far across the reserve so that they have the maximum impact on rival males. However, the great place to see musical entertainment doesn’t end at dawn – a visitor to the Meadow Trail will hear the refrain of blackcaps, willow warblers them. Whatever and chiff chaffs throughout the day. Late April heralds the return of cuckoos to the reserve, which like other migrants have been overwintering in Africa. Cuckoos are extremely quick on the wing the season, a which makes spotting them a challenge but occasionally one or two will oblige by posing on a low tree bough as they deliver visit will result their familiar call. JUNE, JULY April is a great month to be on the reserve with the arrival of in a memorable so many summer migrants. One of the last visitors to arrive is & AUGUST the Eurasian eel which has undertaken a remarkable journey to encounter says reach Titchwell’s fresh water habitats. Starting life in the Atlantic Ocean, millions of juvenile eels are brought to Britain’s shores he woodlands, hedgerows and Wildlife Garden are full of Carrie Carey by the Gulf Stream and North Atlantic Drift. They gather in wild flowers and colourful blooms. Amongst these are the estuaries and inlets and begin to travel inland where they marsh orchids; more common and widespread than you will spend most of their lives in dykes, lakes and reedbeds. T might imagine, these tiny plants adapt well to the boggy Although they prefer to move around at night, it is possible conditions of Titchwell’s wetland habitats. Nestled between fresh to spot eels in the fresh marsh or reedbeds during the day. water reedbeds and pools, a small meadow erupts every summer Unfortunately the stalwart eels that reach Titchwell are a with hundreds of diminutive southern marsh orchids (pictured above favourite food source for bitterns which like to feed the small left) and keen eyed visitors might spot a random leopard orchid elvers to their own young! amongst them. These beautiful flowers are short lived Visitors can also witness the transformation of frog and toad and all but a few will have disappeared by the end of July. spawn into tadpoles, early butterflies such as orange-tips begin However by now, our wildflowers are at their peak and this is to frequent the Wildlife Garden and evidenced by a plethora of butterflies, bees and other invertebrates along the East Trail, spring flowers which rely on the reserve for food, shade and habitat. It is also a come into bloom. Soon the great month to take a closer look at some of our most spectacular meadow strip will be an insects – damselflies and dragonflies. You can find these engaging explosion of yellows as creatures almost anywhere near a water source or wetland area cowslips (pictured below) and the aptly named Dragonfly Pool along the Meadow Trail is an and primroses appear ideal place to start. Damp or wet wings are no good for flight so dotted amongst the you are unlikely to see them on a drizzly day. Choose a bright, dry gorse. and windless morning, settle down on a bench with a good pair of binoculars and wait. Unlike birds which are early risers, dragonflies and damselflies don’t appear until mid-morning, giving latecomers to the reserve plenty of opportunity to catch sight of a large red damselfly or a four spotted chaser dragonfly (pictured above). During summer, the beach at Titchwell beckons visitors of all kinds. Seabirds are busy feeding their hungry young before heading out to sea for the autumn and winter and the occasional curious seal will pop its head up to see what’s about. Small rockpools form amongst hollows in the fossilised remains of a forest that once linked the north Norfolk coast with mainland Europe. Hidden here are the gems of the intertidal zone, limpets, minute barnacles and tiny crabs lurking beneath the slippery seaweed. Choose a day with a low spring tide when most of the intertidal zone is exposed and follow the receding tide down the beach. Amongst the sand pools and rock pools you will discover wildlife hotspots each with its own marine community. If you arrive Carrie Carey is visitor a couple of hours before high tide you should experience manager see flocks of wading birds such as knot, or dunlin RSPB NW Norfolk congregating together as they find a suitable Reserves. RSPB roosting spot. Sanderlings (pictured right) can be has spotted running to and fro along the beach with the freshwater lagoons, incoming tide, their clockwork-like actions very noticeable woodland trails and among the more sedate godwits and redshanks. a stunning beach all accessible by the Coasthopper bus. NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2017 UP CLOSE 7 all year round OCTOBER & NOVEMBER

y mid-month, most of our summer visitors will have left but there is always the chance of an interesting late departure such as an osprey or dotterel. Other species which have been breeding much further north B will be continuing their journeys south, using Titchwell like a motorway service station to top up their energy reserves. Now is the time to be on the watch for a rare bird – or rather a lost bird. It isn’t uncommon for one or more birds to end up at Titchwell when they should have been overwintering in Africa, Asia or even South America. The likelihood is that they have been blown off course by strong autumn winds or there has been a mishap with their internal compass. Sometimes individuals are thousands of miles off course and Titchwell is a welcome reprieve for exhausted and hungry birds. These sightings are a great draw for enthusiastic birders but even for the novice, October is a good time of year for watching wildlife. Many garden birds congregate to find food and our feeders outside the Visitor Centre are always full of tits, finches and brambling. Further out on the reserve a lone barn owl flies low across the fields in search of his final meal of the day. November follows in a similar vein and by the cloclose of autumn, the morning skies echo with the distant yapp of greylags and the melodimelodicc wink-wink of pink-footed geese, a sign that winterer has arrived.

Andy Thompson

SEPTEMBER

s August melts into September, Titchwell undergoes another era of change. In the Wildlife Garden the last of the flowers are clinging on; their bright colours slowly ebbing away. In turn, trees are turning their leaves from various hues of green to golds, bronzes and rich reds. The A hedgerows that guard the reserve fill with blackberries and brambles which will provide food for hungry birds over the autumn months. Almost hidden by falling leaves, sprouting fungi begin to push their way into the subdued daylight. They love the cool, damp days of September and October and are best seen in the morning when the ground is still wet with dew. Look out for the candlesnuff and elder whitewash along the path from the car park. Across the reserve, habitats are alive with birds migrating in from colder climes. As the swallows, swifts and turtle doves depart, a bounty of avian visitors arrive from the subarctic and northern Europe. Titchwell benefits from cold easterly winds bringing rain with them. This forces migrating birds to land in the early hours of the morning to seek food and shelter. A few dry days will encourage the birds to remain on the reserve and Titchwell’s wetland areas soon become a haven for wintering waders, wildfowl and geese. Sea watching can be rewarding at this time of year but it’s best to wrap up warmly if you want to catch a sight of terns and shearwaters. This is also a good time to look out for gannets gliding low over the water in small groups before circling up high and plunging into the sea to feed. DECEMBER & JANUARY

lthough it is tempting to remain indoors during these colder months, December and January also hold a treasure of wildlife FEBRUARY & A discoveries on the reserve. Even elusive animals such as Chinese water deer (pictured above) MARCH and bittern need to emerge from their hiding places and search for food. Wintering thrushes such as fieldfares and the occasional flock of redwings take s the last days of winter are pushed away, it might be possible advantage of the hawthorn berries that adorn the car to see advance parties of summer visitors arrive on the reserve park and in the fields next to the reserve, finches and providing a taste of what to expect in late April and May. Little sparrows gather in large groups to feed on redundant ringed plovers and wheatears are always a joy to see and their A weed seeds. Many animals elect to gather together arrival seems to herald the departure of the wintering wildfowl, waders in groups at this time of year, not only to find food and geese. On a warm day, it is possible to spot early peacock and comma but also to avoid hungry predators! Reduced daylight butterflies around the Meadow Trail. Most resident birds are still putting hours create more opportunities to watch wildlife as breeding off in favour of warmer weather but long-tailed tits (pictured many species are active all day long in the winter right), which build a very intricate and labour intensive nest (pictured and dusk is the ideal time to watch marsh and hen above right), need to get off to a prompt start. Similarly, robins are keen harriers wheeling and turning above the reedbed to get going and around the woodland glade, males can be heard singing before dropping in to roost for the night. even more vociferously in order to attract a mate and defend their territory. 8 UP CLOSE NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2017

Battling the sea and singing the fishing

A fishing village which, according to the writer Sylvia Townsend Warner, who stayed here in 1931, was ‘a closed community, violent and feuding, where everyone was related, and known by a nickname, like characters in the Icelandic sagas’. The Fisherman’s Corner in the church (pictured below), a shrine to those lost at sea, was created by the Rev’d Porter in 1927 who was himself People drowned while rescuing a choir boy on the beach. Nearby are lists of all those rescued by Winterton lifeboats between 1859 and 1923. Perhaps the most enduring legacy of Winterton’s past is the voice of Sam Larner (pictured left), recorded by and place Ewan MaColl and Peggy Seeger in 1960 as part of the English folk song revival. Their radio ballad ‘Singing the Fishing’ is based on his life story and a blue plaque now adorns the cottage in Bulmer Lane where he lived all his life.

WINTERTON All along the coast are fascinating tales of folk – and the evidence of their lives is still there to see, says Peter Tolhurst. From the very first humans to avant-garde artists; from the patron saint of social housing to a spy and a notorious The first humans and fascist, all sorts of characters have some remarkable artists retreated to the coast and made it The remarkable discovery of footprints from at least 800,000BC in a layer of mudstone at the base of the cliffs is the earliest known legacy of human their home, inspiration, or refuge. activity in Britain. The find put Happisburgh on the archaeological map but in more recent times the village has played host to an impressive number of writers and artists. In 1798 the poet William Cowper dined at Hill House, still the village pub, while on a walk from , and Conan Doyle set The Dancing Taken from NORFOLK PARISH TREASURES by Peter Tolhurst, Man here while on holiday in the pub in 1903. In the summer of 1930 a group published by Black Dog Books. ‘Mid Norfolk and ’ of young artists (pictured above) including Ben Nicholson, Barbara Hepworth softback £20; ‘North and West Norfolk’ softback £20, and Henry Moore (work pictured) discovered the sculptural possibilities of large hardback £25. Available from local bookshops or direct ironstone pebbles and contorted flints found on the beach which helped shape from www.blackdogbooks.co.uk the direction of figurative art in Britain.

STIFFKEY The rich, the famous… and a spy Prompted by the success of Clement Scott’s ‘Poppyland’ and articles in the Telegraph the rich and famous rushed to colonise this stretch of the coast in preference to . is unique for no less than three buildings by the eminent Arts and Crafts architect Edwin Lutyens; The Pleasaunce for Lady Battersea where his ‘more capricious inventions’ are reserved for the clock tower and cloistered walkway; a striking new Methodist Chapel (pictured below) and Overstrand Hall, an accomplished courtyard house for Lord Hillingdon. The hotel Sea-Marge (by Blomefield) is a more conventional half-timbered affair for the German financier Sir Otto Speyer, later deported as a spy. It was here in 1914 that Winston Churchill learnt that Britain was at war with Germany. OVERSTRAND

Fascist leaning farmer and circus-joining vicar

Famous for its cockles – Stewkey Blues – and a turbulent priest. Old Hall Farm (pictured above) was home to the writer Henry Williamson who moved here from Devon in 1937. The Story of a Norfolk Farm (1941), his struggle to turn round a run-down holding during the war, is a reminder of his gift as a nature writer, but his Fascist sympathies aroused suspicion. Oswald Mosley’s lightning strike is still visible, daubed on a cottage in the High Street. Between the wars ’s notorious vicar, Rev’d Harold Davison, was exposed by the News of the World and defrocked for ‘befriending fallen women’ in London. He later joined a circus and was mauled to death by a lion but locals recognised his humanity. NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2017

BLAKENEY The patron saint of social housing The charming mix of cobblestone cottages that line the High Street or are tucked away up backyards include a number picked out in the distinctive navy blue and white livery of the Blakeney Neighbourhood Housing Society. The parish church may be dedicated to St Nicholas, patron saint of fishermen but Nora Clogstoun, who saved the first group of their condemned cottages in 1946, is the patron saint of social housing. As the Society’s founding spirit she foresaw the effect of wealthy newcomers on the housing market. Today the Society’s 40 or more cottages in Blakeney and the surrounding villages provide rented accommodation for local people.

HUNSTANTON

Lost innocence and Lords of the Foreshore L P Hartley’s claim to be Norfolk’s greatest novelist rests on two enduring works of literature. The Shrimp and the Anemone (1944), the first volume of his Eustace and Hilda trilogy, is set in Edwardian Anchorstone () where the two children play in the rock pools beneath the town’s dramatic striped cliffs and where the hall (entrance pictured above) is home to the hereditary Stavelys (Le Strange) family, Lords of the Foreshore. Bradenham Hall in mid Norfolk is the setting for his most famous novel, The Go-Between (1954), a delicate study of a young boy’s lost innocence. Much of Joseph Losey’s 1970 film version was shot on location in north Norfolk at Hall and Heydon. NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2017 GET INVOLVED 11

NORFOLK COAST PARTNERSHIP IN ACTION Climate change on the coast The climate is currently changing rapidly due to human behaviour in the form of our carbon dioxide emissions. Norfolk Coast Partnership members have been working together to understand what these changes mean for the coast. Looking ahead, in this century, floods, droughts, storms and heat waves will become more frequent and the weather hotter. Summer temperatures in will rise by up to 5°C and be more variable. There will be less rain overall – although winter rainfall will increase by up to 30%, summer rainfall will halve. Sea levels will continue to rise and the sea get warmer. This means big changes for marine habitats and therefore the local fishing industry and offshore developments. Tourism will be affected – for instance, Justin Minns higher temperatures combined with higher nutrient levels may increase harmful algal blooms causing beaches to be closed and shellfish to accumulate toxins. All hands Sea level rise will lead to flooding and loss of habitats, farmland, homes, businesses, heritage and infrastructure. There could be many more visitors due to the warmer climate. Storms will impact on tourism infrastructure to the pump like beaches and the coast road – as well as on amenities for year-round communities. Farmers will need to change crops as they face Icons in the landscape: Alex Green explains new diseases, soil loss, and water scarcity. work to reawaken a sleeping giant at Horsey Locally, working towards adaptation aims to help the communities and wildlife of the Norfolk Coast survive in some form. The global uilt in 1912, Horsey Windpump is All the timbers had suffered severely from wa- which catch the breeze and rotate the sails is a scale of the problem is such that governments a survivor, withstanding lightning ter damage and rot. Over the following twelve mammoth piece of work in its own right, and need to take urgent action. There is a chance strikes, gales and floods in her 105 months, with millwright Tim Whiting, piece- will continue well into summer. to slow the warming, but only if wide-scale year history. Playing a pivotal role in by-piece we inspected, replaced and repaired The newly restored windpump will need changes are made to generate less carbon. drainingB the surrounding farmland during the the timbers which form the cap frame as well a team of people to keep her maintained and The Norfolk Coast AONB Climate Change 1938 floods that saw much of the area under as refurbishing the metal parts and rollers. sails turning. We’re are on the lookout for keen Adaptation Strategy is available at water for many months, she was put out of op- It’s not until you get close to the building volunteers who will help bring the windpump norfolkcoastaonb.org.uk eration when struck by lightning in 1943. that you really see just how brutal the weather to life for our visitors and manage this elegant This majestic windpump has undergone can be. Brickwork repairs to the tower, which building for the future. many repairs and restorations over her lifetime had suffered heavily from the battering of wind The Staithe Stores Café is open and we can’t BE PART but none as ambitious as the current project and rain in this exposed part of Norfolk, were wait to re-open the windpump this summer. that will see her standing proud again with also undertaken. You may even get a chance to see Tim and his OF IT turning sails in the wide open coastal and This spring will see the newly restored cap millwright team in action, as we plan to con- Broads landscape. lifted back onto the windpump followed by tinue the conservation works whilst the wind- On a sunny March day in 2016 we watched new patent sails in early summer. With over pump is open. nervously as the cap and brake wheel were £244,000 invested in this phase of the project, lifted from the windpump tower and carefully it is planned that this important industrial her- To keep up to date with this exciting project lowered to the ground. It was an impressive itage will be preserved for many years to come. and to find out how you can get involved visit sight, and officially marked the beginning of The National Trust are looking towards the www.nationaltrust.org.uk/horsey-windpump the project. next phase - to put in place the mechanism and Following the ‘big lift,’ scaffolding was put machinery which will see the wind turning Alex Green is National Trust digital media, up around the tower to remove the timber the sails and preserving this important indus- marketing and interpretation officer, wallplate (the curb) which supported the cap. trial heritage. Fitting the shutters and the blades Norfolk Coast

New lease of life: two more historic Norfolk coast buildings

WELLS MALTINGS from local people, produce a community play BARN After six years of planning, fundraising, about the life of Alderman Peel and a heritage Built in the last quarter of the 16th Century, this consultation and hard work a year-long building art trail through the town. monumental thatched barn – the largest in the BEACH CLEAN project to transform Wells Maltings is underway, A team of volunteers are needed to help, county – was restored by Norfolk County Council Seaview Café at West hosts the with this handsome building, once the heart of including curators, arts administrators, fabric after compulsory acquisition in the early 1990s. amazing #2minutebeachclean, providing the port of Wells, being extended and remodeled. artists, makers, arts educators, writers, bloggers, The complex is open to the public in the bags, litter pickers and encouragement. The £1.9m Heritage Lottery funded work is being photographers, videographers, filmmakers, summer. The Barn Café is open six days a week, Anyone can do it, then share a picture on streamed by live webcam. archivists and conservationists – so get in touch if closed Wednesdays, from April to October and social media. It has made a real difference There are plans to produce traditional and you’d like to be involved. serves cakes, cream teas as well as light lunches. to the beach. digital community banners, record oral histories wellsmaltings.org.uk norfolkhistoricbuildingstrust.org.uk beachclean.net seaviewbeachcafe.co.uk NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2017 WALKING 13

Passport to the east Andrew Middleton with an update on the strides forward for Norfolk’s national trail

he and Norfolk vironmental impact along the dune Coast Path passes through system there, but also to create access some of the most diverse to the beach, in particular for people landscapes in the east of with mobility issues. We are looking England.T From the wild Brecklands to at similar improvements at Holme, the edge of the Broads National Park, where we hope to install a boardwalk this National Trail runs past striped to improve access to the beach. cliffs at Hunstanton, tidal marshes at The Norfolk Trails team have also Artist walks his wayway Cley, sand dune backed beaches at developed the Peddars Way and Nor- Holkham and now ever onwards east. folk Coast Path Passport - a guide to ‘On my way’ is a new book by John Hurst, Over the past year the Norfolk the National Trail in Norfolk, provid- describing 25 of the artist’s favourite Norfolk coastal walks during different Trails team have been busy making ing descriptions of each walk section, seasons, ranging from one to six miles in improvements along the Peddars Way, indicating circular walks that are close length and extending from Holme-next-the- and also extending the coast path 21 by, as well as highlighting local points Sea in the west to Winterton in the east. Each miles eastwards from Sea Palling, so of interest, pubs, cafes and accommo- walk is illustrated in luminous watercolour that the coast path now runs for 84 dation. Each walk section is accom- (above), described from personal experience, miles from Hunstanton to Hopton- panied by its own stamp. As you walk and shown by hand drawn maps (right). on-Sea. along the National Trail, collect your With an introduction by Sir Ian Botham, The new stretch of the Norfolk stamps and earn your place in the Na- a percentage of the book’s profits are Coast Path opened last October, with tional Trail Hall of Fame! pledged to his Leukaemia Foundation. a ceremony at St George’s Theatre, If you are visiting with the family For further details about John’s , which sits alongside why not get a junior passport for the work and 2017 exhibitions, please the new path. The 21 miles of new children which gives loads of great see www.marshlandarts.co.uk national trail includes three miles of advice and ideas for activities – it’s For the chance to win a copy of ‘On my way’, brand new access between Horsey free with the purchase of the adult enter our competition on page 20. and Sea Palling offering fantastic op- passport. Profits from the passport portunities for walking, go towards maintaining the National and more. Trail, and it is available at tourist in- BE PART In addition we have developed formation and visitor centres. OF IT many new circular walks leading off the coast path, creating opportunities to explore the countryside and settle- Andrew Middleton is Assistant ENJOY THE JOURNEY ments. From one mile to nine, there’s Trails Officer, Norfolk County Council If you’re out and about on the a walk for everyone here. www.nationaltrail.co.uk/peddars-way- coast, come on the train, by bike We have also been working to and-norfolk-coast-path or bus. Use the Coasthopper bus improve access for all, and have built See page 14 for more about to make a great circular walk – and installed a brand new boardwalk improvements to the Peddars and have a rest on the ride at North Denes to mitigate the en- Way for cyclists. home on the train. More information on transport at norfolkcoastaonb.org.uk

On the coast path at Beeston Bump

Pitch up and relax on a new kind of holiday If you’d like to walk and camp your way along the coast, but Path, with luggage being transferred to the next destination don’t want to carry a big rucksack, a Norfolk firm is offering each day. The tent accommodation includes comfy chairs an innovative holiday package. MarGins offer ‘walking and padded camp beds with duvets, cooking facilities and and glamping’ holidays – from a three day, 38 mile walk a hamper of local Norfolk produce each day for breakfast. from Cromer to Hopton-on-Sea; a four day, 46-miler from Dogs are welcome. Hunstanton to Cromer; or the full 84 miles of the from Hunstanton to the Suffolk border, taking six www.walkandglamp.co.uk [email protected] days. 07787 534809 The glamping accommodation is set up each day on For the chance to win a MarGins holiday, enter our established camp sites situated right on the Norfolk Coast competition on page 20. 14 CYCLING NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2017

Now you can cycle the entire Freewheeling fun Peddars Way Cyclists are in for a treat thanks to Whether you are an experienced an upgrade of the Peddars Way. tourer or haven’t been on a bike The route, which follows a Roman in years, the Norfolk Coast’s miles road built along the line of an even older path, starts in the Brecks, of quiet country roads, lanes and a unique area of forest, heath bridleways, varied landscapes and and low river valleys and runs north villages are ideal to explore on a bike. from Knettishall Heath in Suffolk, for 46 miles through changing Try hiring a tandem, trailer or electric countryside to the north Norfolk bike and follow the Norfolk Coastt coast to meet the Norfolk Coast Path at Holme-next-the-Sea, near Cycleway, or one of its many Hunstanton. loops and links. The Norfolk Trails team have installed brand new Peddars Way BURNHAM DEEPDALE: Deepdale Cycle Hire signage featuring the National T: 01485 210614 Trail Acorn with a pink bicycle www.deepdalebackpackers.co.uk/bike-hire wheel waymarker disc (pictured Campsite, hostel, information centre under below), as well as new sections of new management. trail for cyclists so that you can now cycle the entire route. A brand CROMER: Electrifying Cycles new Peddars Way cycle guide 01263 513631 or 07812 996648 has been created and launched www.electrifyingcycles.co.uk to mirror the new signage and is Providing solely electric cycles for sale or hire. available to download from the Advisable to book in advance. National Trail website. HEACHAM: A. E. Wallis Cycleway map guide New circular walks off the 01485 571683 aewallis.co.uk Peddars Way, such as the Pingo The Norfolk Coast Cycleway follows Sustrans National Cycle Network Weekly hire, children’s bikes, trailers and trailer Trail and West Harling Trail have (NCN) route 1 (Hull to Harwich) from Kings Lynn to where at bikes, child seats and helmets available. been installed to create further Copy’s Green regional route 30 commences. Regional route 30 follows access into this special area of : Holkham Cycle Hire quieter roads through to Cromer, then passes through the Quiet Lanes countryside. 01328 713071 holkham.co.uk network before finally following the coast down into Great Yarmouth. Seasonal cycle hire for use in Holkham estate. The Norfolk Coast Cycleway is signed with regular route markers. HOLT: Overland Cycles A map guide (pictured left) featuring the route with pubs, cafes, 01263 713293 or 07733 445511 shops and other useful information – and a set of explorer routes Mountain bikes, tandems etc. Helmets is available (RRP £2.50) from many tourist information centres, and routes provided. campsites, cycle hirers and other businesses. HOLT: Cyclelife at Bakers & Larners Check our website norfolkcoastaonb.org/cycling for information 01263 712244 bakersandlarners.co.uk on how to obtain the guide. Bicycles hired by the day, weekend, long weekend or week with a range of extras and accessories Traffic-free trail riding options in the 250-acre park, or WAXHAM: Sea Palling Cycle Hire : Cycle Hire at BeWilderwood, try Huff & Puff with the North Norfolk Railway. Cycles 07747 483154 seapallingcyclehire.com 07887 480331 broadlandcyclehire.co.uk delivered – including two hybrid electric bikes. Also delivers and collects rental cycles to tourism Adult and children’s bikes, child seats, tag-alongs and accommodation. trailers, maps, helmets, baskets and toolkits. Weekly : Black Bikes hire with free delivery to some local accommodation. 01263 822255; black-bikes.co.uk WIGHTON: On Yer Bike Cycle Hire Mountain & hybrid bikes. Routes, helmets, locks 01328 820719 or 07584 30812 norfolkcyclehire.co.uk HOVETON, AND BRIDGE: and repair kits provided. Situated on Norfolk Coast Cycleway Route 30 close to BroadsByCycle 01603 552563 broadsbycycle.co.uk junction with National Route 1. Delivery and collection Self service bike hire scheme in the Broads National SHERINGHAM: Green Powered Bicycles service available. Park. You can hire bikes at the three docking stations. 01263 821882 or 07979 195664 greenpoweredbicycles.com : Paddles and Pedals KELLING HEATH: Huff and Puff Cycles Electric bicycle hire 08454 969177 thecanoeman.co.uk 07500 865095 huffandpuffcycles.co.uk Bike and canoeing hire. 18 LOCAL FOOD NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2017 Deepdale Cafe 3 Dalegate Market, Main Road, Burnham RTNERSH Deepdale PE31 8FB PA IP T: 01485 210200 Salthouse Beef Cooks of Ingham Farmshop I Manor House Farm, Manor House, Boundary Farm, Ingham NR12 0TS ST N W: deepdale-cafe.co.uk A A Cross Street, Salthouse NR25 7XH T: 01692 598202 O C T: 01263 740497 W: cooksofingham.co.uk T E: [email protected] Own produce and other local products. C I Traditional rare breed Red Poll beef. Country Pickings Ltd K O Gt Snoring Free range eggs L NR21 0HW Stable Organics 19 High Street, Mundesley NR11 8LH N T: 01328 820351 M: 07768 756760 Gresham NR11 8RW T: 01263 720054 O T: 01263 577468 Mostly locally grown fresh produce. F W: topfarmeggs.co.uk Organic veg, fruit and free range eggs. Free range hen, quail, duck and goose R Creake Abbey Food Hall

eggs. , NR21 9LF The Norfolk Brewhouse

O

Green Farm Lamb Moon Gazer Barn, Harvest Lane, T: 01328 730399

N

Hindringham NR21 0PW W: creakeabbeycafe.com NR11 7LW

T: 01263 577441 T: 01328 878495 E: [email protected]

L Craft shops and regular Farmers Market. O W: greenfarmlamb.co.uk W: norfolkbrewhouse.co.uk

E: [email protected] E: [email protected]

BUY C Drove Orchards Ltd

Brewed on site. A Available at Farmers Markets in Aylsham The Drove House, Thornham PE36 6LS

L and Aldborough. The Tacons T: 01485 525652 W: droveorchards.com

P E: [email protected]

Y Hunstanton Ice Cream The Grange, Rollesby NR29 5AJ R

R

LOCALO T: 01493 740236 W: thetacons.co.uk Fruit, juices and vegetables grown on 17 The Green, Hunstanton PE36 5AH

O

D

T the farm.

U E: offi[email protected] C T: 01485 533108

E C R E I

D W: hunstantonicecream.co.uk ‘Pick Your Own’ fresh fruit and onions. Frary Seafoods Hand-made ice cream. Velvet Bakehouse Cupcakes Wells Quay T: 07901 656608 Letheringsett Mill Flour T: 07712 629336 Fresh fish, shellfish. Stall on Wells Quay. Letheringsett NR25 7YD W: velvetbakehouse.com Fresh Approach Ltd T: 01263 713153 E: [email protected] Unit 4A, Aylsham Industrial Estate, Try out the live map of local W: letheringsettwatermill.co.uk Appealing cupcakes for any occasion. Aylsham NR11 6SS Wholewheat, spelt and other flour. Whin Hill Cider T: 01263 731412 Martin’s Farm The Ciderworks, Stearman’s Yard, W: freshapproach-norfolk.co.uk producers on our web-based NR20 5DB Wells-next-the-Sea NR23 1BW E: [email protected] T: 01263 861241 T: 01328 711821 Home grown fruit and vegetables for Free range chickens, ducks, eggs, pork. M: 0776 9571423 wholesale. directory. It’s all there at W: whinhillcider.co.uk Morton’s Traditional Taste Ltd Groveland Farmshop E: [email protected] Whitwell Hall Farms, Roughton, Norfolk NR11 8TB Norfolk cider, perry and apple juice. norfolkcoastaonb.org.uk NR10 5AY T: 01263 833777

T: 01692 538067 Westons Fish Shop W: grovelandfarmshop.co.uk Wide range of produce. W: freerangeturkeys.co.uk 5A Westgate Street, Blakeney LOCAL PRODUCERS Breck Farm E: [email protected] NR25 7NQ Heacham Farm Shop Weybourne NR25 6QL Free range turkey and chicken. T: 01263 741112 Lynn Road, Heacham PE31 7JE Asparagus Marsham T: 01263 588236 W: westonsofblakeney.co.uk T: 01485 570002 W: .co.uk Mrs Temple’s Cheese Wood Farm, Marsham W: breckfarm.co.uk Fresh shellfish, fish, home made E: [email protected] Wighton T: 01603 754224 Fruit and vegetables available in season. produce and more. Local food direct from producers. E: [email protected] T: 01328 820224 Aberdeen Angus Beef Humble Pie Deli Fresh asparagus (May-June). Handmade using milk from own cows. D. K. Jeary, Hawthorn Farm, Briston NR24 2JQ Market Place, PE31 8HF Norfolk Saffron Beeston Brewery T: 01263 862734 LOCAL PRODUCE SHOPS T: 01328 738581 T: 07789 366560 Fransham Road Farm, E: [email protected] Algy’s Farm Shop W: humble-pie.com W: norfolksaffron.co.uk Beeston PE32 2LZ Top quality Aberdeen Angus Beef. Bintree NR20 5NE E: [email protected] T: 01328 700844 E: [email protected] Causeway Butchers T: 01362 683893 Homemade jams, chutneys, marmalades W: beestonbrewery.co.uk Norfolk grown Saffron produce. Causeway Farm, Sea Palling Road, W: bintreefarmshop.co.uk and cakes. E: [email protected] Ingham NR12 0TP Norfolk Heatwave Products E: [email protected] H V Graves Butchers Everything from bottles to casks. T: 01692 580886 Rose Cottage, Weybourne, NR25 7SY Algy’s popcorn and seasonal farm 24 Gladstone Place, Briston NR24 2LE Bray’s Pork Pies Traditional butchers shop. T: 01263 588249 M: 07733 991211 produce. T: 01263 860333 W: hvgraves.co.uk 12 Bayfield Brecks, W: norfolkheatwave.com Cley Smokehouse Arthur Howell Shops E: [email protected] Letheringsett NR25 7DZ Homemade hot chilli pepper products. High Street, Cley-next-the-Sea NR25 7RF Wells area Butchers and hog roast catering. T: 01263 860944 W: perfectpie.co.uk T: 01263 740282 Papworth Butchers T: 01328 710228 Icarus Hines Butcher Hand made from own free-range pigs. W: cleysmokehouse.com 46 Station Road, Sheringham W: arthurhowell.com 69 Church Street, Cromer NR27 9HH Bagthorpe Farm Organic Bircham E: [email protected] NR26 8RG Home-made produce and smoke house. T: 01263 514541 W: icarushines.co.uk T: 01263 823189 T: 01485 578528 Freshly smoked fish, shellfish, cured meats. Back to the Garden Farmshop E: [email protected] W: bagthorpefarm.co.uk W: papworthbutchers.co.uk Courtyard Farm Letheringsett, Holt NR25 7JJ Norfolk’s premier butcher with over Organic vegetables grown on the farm. E: [email protected] Ringstead PE36 5LQ T: 01263 715996 30 years experience. Quality meats from own farm. Bircham Windmill T: 01485 525251 W: back-to-the-garden.co.uk Community shop Great Bircham PE31 6SJ W: courtyardfarm.co.uk Plumbe & Maufe Farming E: [email protected] Wolterton Road, Itteringham NR11 7AF T: 01485 578393 Organic beef, pork and lamb. Town Fresh local food, organic produce, T: 01263 587325 W: ourvillagestore.co.uk W: birchamwindmill.co.uk T: 01328 738311 Crush Foods café and restaurant. A range of local produce. Hand-baked goods and own sheep cheeses. M: 07774 996634 The Crushing Shed, Park Farm Salle Bakers and Larners J E Howard Butchers W: pmfarming.co.uk Blueberries NR10 4SG High Street, Holt NR25 6BW West Newton, Sandringham PE31 6AY Fresh plums, plum jam and chutneys, Fairgreen Farm, Middleton PE32 1RN T: 01263 805009 W: crush-foods.com T: 01263 712244 T: 01485 542219 sweet plum vinegar, apples and apple T: 01553 844062 E: [email protected] W: bakersandlarners.co.uk E: [email protected] juice from mid July til mid Sept. M: 07928 533846 Cold pressed rapeseed oil, dressings/sauces, E: [email protected] W: jehoward.co.uk W: blueberrypicking.co.uk granola. Poppyland Brewery Award winning food hall. Traditional family butcher and abattoir. Pick-your-own blueberries (July-Sept). Chesterfield Lodge, West Street, Davies’ Fish Shop Blakeney Delicatessen Knights Hill Farmshop Cromer NR27 9DT Blakeney Crab Shed 7 Garden Street, Cromer NR27 9HN 30 High Street, Blakeney NR25 7AL Knight’s Hill, South Wootton, 63 New Road, Blakeney NR25 7PA T: 01263 512727 E: [email protected] T: 01263 513992 M: 078887 398804 T: 01263 740939 King’s Lynn PE30 3HQ T: 01263 740988 Cromer crab, lobsters, cockles, whelks W: poppylandbeer.com W: blakeneydeli.co.uk T: 01553 674212 Fresh shellfish, homemade crab and a range of wet fish. E: [email protected] E: [email protected] W: knightshillfarmshop.net cakes and more. Unfiltered real ales. Ferndale Norfolk Cheeses Seaonal local produce. Own produce and other local suppliers. Brancaster Brewery The White Cottage, Sandringham Apple Juice Cookies Crab Shop M & M Rutland Butchers c/o The Jolly Sailors PE31 8BJ Little Barningham NR11 7AG T: 07810 310757 The Green, Salthouse, Holt, 13 Briston Road, Melton Constable T: 01485 210314 T: 01263 577640 W: Sandringhamapplejuice.co.uk Norfolk NR25 7AJ NR24 2DG W: brancasterbrewery.co.uk W: ferndalefarmnorfolkcheeses.co.uk Apple juice, Cider and pick your own T: 01263 740352 W: salthouse.org.uk T: 01263 860562 E: [email protected] E: [email protected] apples during season. E: [email protected] W: rutland-butchers.co.uk Small batches of high quality real ale. Farmhouse cheeses and seasonal veg. Quality shellfish. Local meat, dairy and homemade pies. NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2017 LOCAL FOOD 19

Norfolk Deli 16 Greevegate, Hunstanton PE36 6AA T: 01485 535540 W: norfolk-deli.co.uk E: [email protected] Range of local produces. P&S Butchers Teatime 8 Bull Street, Holt NR25 6HP T: 01263 713227 W: pandsbutchers.co.uk Local meat and game. Picnic Fayre under the Old Forge, Cley-next-the-Sea NR25 7AP T: 01263 740587 W: picnic-fayre.co.uk E: [email protected] thatch Delicatessen stocking local produce. Real Ale Shop Helen Vardy of the café at Branthill Farm, Wells-next-the-Sea NR23 1SB T: 01328 710810 historic Waxham Barn with W: therealaleshop.co.uk E: [email protected] some home made treats Over 60 varieties of beer. his year will be my 10th year at Waxham Barn Stiffkey Stores Café. It’s long hours and hard work, but every The Old Coachouse, Wells Road, Stiffkey NR23 1QH T morning, I walk through the courtyard and T: 01328 830489 feel lucky to be a part of the history of this amazing E: [email protected] site. There is no other building comparable in the W: stiffkeystores.com county: impressive, imposing – and free to visit. Selling local and organic produce. As this stretch of coast gets busier, Waxham Tavern Tasty Meats village has managed to keep its rural charm and Swafield, NR28 0PG attracts many visitors who like to leave to modern T: 01692 405444 W: taverntasty.co.uk E: [email protected] world behind and soak up the quiet atmosphere. Accredited rare breeds butcher. Our site is just ten minutes’ walk from the beach to make the sponge light. Pour into a greased, lined The Old Post Office or costal path, past our peaceful, local church, Carrot and Courgette Soup The Old Post Office, Coast Road, St. John’s. tin (9inch, round) and bake for approximately 35 minutes at 160 degrees Celsius. The sponge will be Salthouse NR25 7AJ The café menu is compiled of simple, fresh All our soup is vegan, and gluten free. This has T: 01263 741618 ingredients, locally sourced wherever possible. very dark, in colour. Don’t be tempted to take it out Local produce including outlet for a unique flavour and is my personal favourite. Our suppliers include Broadland Ham, Breckland of the oven too early, use a cake tester, if necessary. Manor Farm Beef. 3 large carrots Orchard and Cooks Farm Shop at Ingham. The cake must be cold before you ice it. Truly Local 3 large courgettes We have our free range eggs delivered from Melt the spread, brown sugar and soya milk, 44 High Street, NR12 9AS 2 large onions the farm, next door. We have a small kitchen garden, gently, in a pan. Remove from the heat and whisk T: 01692 582438 W: trulylocalcic.co.uk Stock and coconut milk to taste. E: [email protected] and grow some of our own herbs and vegetables, in the sieved icing sugar until smooth. Spread the Open Mon-Sat. Wide variety of local like courgettes, onions, beetroot, potatoes, chives Roughly chop the vegetables, cover with water in a warm icing over the cake. products from within a 35 mile radius. and parsley. pan. Add your favourite stock powder or paste. (I use The café is open from Easter until October, 2 teaspoons of vegetable bouillon.) Bring to the boil Walsingham Farm Shop and simmer until soft. I sometimes remove some Lime and Coconut Cake Guild Street, Walsingham 10:30am to 4pm, every day except Wednesday. of the water at this stage; I like my soup to be thick NR22 6BU The Barn itself is sometimes closed to This is a twist on the classic lemon drizzle cake; and hearty. Blend until smooth. Stir in the coconut T: 01328 821877 visitors when hired for private functions – check substitute lime for lemon and add coconut. Simple! W: walsingham.co norfolkhistoricbuildingstrust.org.uk for details. milk to taste. (I use 2 tablespoons.) E: [email protected] 110g margarine Find our other farm shop at Norfolk 150g caster sugar Lavender, Heacham PE31 7JE. Grow Banana and Caramel Cake 175g self raising flour, sifted local, eat local, love local. 2 large eggs This is an Australian recipe that I’ve adapted to Westons of Blakeney 2 tbsp milk 5a Westgate Street, Blakeney make it gluten and dairy free. I’ve written it out for 1tsp baking power T: 01263 741112 customers many, many times! Grated zest from 1 lime W: westonsofblakeney.co.uk 2 large bananas, 35g desiccated coconut Fresh shellfish, fish, homemade produce. (the older, the better) mashed For the icing; Weybourne Village Store 125g vegetable oil Juice of the lime Beach Lane, Weyborne, Holt NR25 7SY T: 01263 588219 150g caster sugar 40g icing sugar W: villagestoreweybourne.co.uk 200g self-raising gluten free flour 15g desiccated coconut E: [email protected] (I use rice flour) A hand blender is best to mix all the cake ingredients Village store and deli supplying local 2 large eggs together until smooth and pale in colour. Pour into produce. 1 tsp Bicarbonate of soda (don’t be tempted a greased, lined tin. (9inch round) and bake at 160 Wiveton Hall Farmshop to use a different raising agent!) degrees Celsius for approximately 30 minutes. The Wiveton Hall, Wiveton NR25 7TE For the icing; T: 01263 740525 cake should be well risen and browned. W: wivetonhall.co.uk 25g dairy-free spread Ice the cake while it is still warm. E: offi[email protected] 30g soft, brown sugar Mix the lime juice with the icing sugar - pop this Café, farm shop and PYO in season. 1 tbsp soya milk mixture into the microwave for about 15 seconds. It 60g icing sugar should be liquid enough to pour and spread over the This cake can be mixed by hand, but is best done hot cake. (If your lime is not very ‘juicy’, use 2 or add FARMERS MARKETS by machine! Whisk together, throughly, all the cake some lemon juice.) Farmers markets are held every month. ingredients: the mixture needs lots of air bubbles Sprinkle over the remaining coconut immediately. For a full list visit norfolkcoastaonb.org.uk 22 ART NORFOLKN COAST GUARDIAN 2017

NORFOLK COAST PARTNERSHIP IN ACTION Site specific Poetry of place Does the Norfolk Coast speak to you? Norfolk Coast Partnership The coast has long inspired artists community representative Clive Wakes-Miller is collecting poems for of all kinds – this year there are a special volume of verse evocative of this astounding place. some exciting chances to see their Clive said: “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. When I was work outside, says Lucy Galvin confined working in a hospital, I used to come up to the coast and it kept me sane – the stillness, wind, rom local schoolchildren Exhibition curator Lorcan O’Neill history acted on me like a cure.” working with local artists to said: “Richard Long is one of the most “Now I live on the coast and a globally famous sculptor, influential figures of conceptual and as a community representative this year’s the time to catch land art, part of a generation of distin- I am gathering together poems Fsome amazing outdoor art on the guished British artists who extended from people of the area. In the coast. the possibilities of sculpture beyond future we are planning to publish A unique exhibition by ground- traditional materials and method; his selected work.” breaking conceptual artist Richard work is rooted in his deep affinity and Please send your contributions Long at Houghton offers the chance engagement with nature.” for consideration to to introduce children to this radical The artist’s new works, in the [email protected] art for free. grounds of the hall, use a variety of EARTH SKY is the first exhibi- materials, including local Carr stone, ‘Monument to Salthouse Mariners’ by Kevin Lee. John Millwood tion ever to present the Turner Prize flint from East Anglia and tree stumps winning artist’s outdoor works in the from the Estate. They accompany Norfolk coast, including Salthouse Sea. A sculpture by Henry Stephens children facilitated by Susan Purser- landscape, the show will be the larg- the permanent Long sculpture, Full churchyard, the back garden of Kel- now marks their struggle. Hope. est since Long’s retrospective at the Moon Circle, which was commis- ling Primary School, the garden of Eels are also celebrated in art at The Glaven eel art trail is part of Tate in 2009 and is an opportunity to sioned for Houghton in 2003. There Kelling Tea Room - a good place NWT Cley Marshes centre in a film a Norfolk Coast Partnership Heritage see new site-specific works set within will also be large mud works in the for walkers to get refreshment, and at by local natural history film maker Lottery funded project to protect this the historic landscape and gardens at outdoor colonnades, and smaller-scale Cley Wildlife reserve. All of these can Josh Jaggard; at Natural Surroundings threatened creature, delivered with Houghton alongside permanent art- works in gallery spaces, as well as his- be reached on the CoastHopper bus. in the Glaven Valley through a panel the Norfolk Rivers Trust. works by a range of contemporary toric material relating to the artist’s Also look out for sculptures in Kelling on the life cycle of eel in tea gardens In the future, more work will ap- artists, including James Turrell, Zhan career. Heath Holiday Park, Albert Street in by Susan Purser-Hope; and colour- pear in the landscape, as plans are Wang, Jeppe Hein, Stephen Cox, Ra- Out and about, free open air art Holt, and in . ful glassworks by local schoolchil- afoot to use an imaginative variety of chel Whiteread, Anya Gallaccio and that adds to the interest of a walk can John Millwood organised a trail of dren, also facilitated by Susan Purser- art on a route to explore the heritage Phillip King. be found at a number of sites on the outdoor art on the coast some years Hope. At Bayfield Lower Meadow of the peoples of sea and shore in and ago. Still in place is ‘Monument to picnic spot there is a sculpture by around Wells-next-the-Sea. Salthouse Mariners’, by Kevin Lee, Henry Stephens, and at Letheringsett standing dramatically against the sky- Mill, where eels pass by on land there Lucy Galvin is communications officer line above Salthouse. He said “it can are more artworks by local school- at the Norfolk Coast Partnership be seen from miles around – the site is a splendid viewpoint, easily reached in a few minutes’ walk westwards up EVENT DETAILS the public footpath from the village EARTH SKY: Richard Long at Houghton through two kissing gates.” 30 April - 26 October 2017 Open Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays The Norfolk Coast Partnership and Bank Holiday Mondays only 11am – Last Admission 4pm (one hour before has worked with local artists to mark closure). Tickets: £18 Richard Long Exhibition, House, Gardens and Grounds; some of the places on the Glaven £10 per adult Gardens and Grounds. Children 16 years and River where the mysterious eels and under free. www.houghtonhall.com.Tickets may be bought online and will be pass through and live. discounted. Use promotion code AAAA. In the spring, when the moon is Enter our competition on page 20 for a chance to win tickets to full, if you look carefully you may see the exhibition. glass eels climbing the sluice gates at Discover more about the amazing eels at norfolkriverstrust.org/eels-project. Blakeney – arriving in Norfolk from See page 25 for a series of free eel walks, talks and tours this summer. ‘Full Moon Circle’ by Richard Long at Houghton Hall. Simon Hazelgrove their long journey from the Sargasso 16 GETTING ABOUT NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2017

This map focuses on major trails. Several great long distance trails are omitted as they run mainly off the map and do not connect to the area of outstanding natural beauty: the Fen Rivers Way (King’s Lynn –Cambridge); Way (Great Yarmouth-Thetford); Wherryman’s Way (-Great Yarmouth) and Boudicca Way (Norwich-Diss). Information on Norfolk Trails and public rights of way at norfolk.gov.uk/out-and-about-in-norfolk. Map illustration by Kate Dougan © Crown copyright and database rights 2017 Ordnance Survey 100019340. NORFOLK COAST GUARDIAN 2017 GETTING ABOUT 17