DOCSLIB.ORG

The Beetz Goes on How Coty CEO Bernd Beetz Is Refashioning the Fragrance Powerhouse Into a Beauty Behemoth

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
The Beetz Goes on How Coty CEO Bernd Beetz Is Refashioning the Fragrance Powerhouse Into a Beauty Behemoth THETHE BUSINESSBUSINESS OFOF BEAUTYBEAUTY THE FRAGRANCE ISSUE “FASTER, FURTHER, FREER” The Beetz Goes On How Coty CEO Bernd Beetz is refashioning the fragrance powerhouse into a beauty behemoth. and THE SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS IN THE U.S.? THE INSIDER’S GUIDE TO THE FIFI’S BREAKING INTO THE BRAZILIAN MARKET BB1105-COVER.b;19.indd 1 5/4/11 5:05 PM THE FRAGRANCE FOR TREASURED MOMENTS lancome.com Penélope Cruz WWD BEAUTY INC. 3 contents “WE DON’T WANT TO FOLLOW TRENDS AS MUCH AS Departments CREATE THEM.” —Jacques Polge, CORNER OFFICE Chanel 8 Master Class: Jacques Polge Inside the mind—and nose— of Chanel’s master perfumer. 18 12 When Harry Met Laura On the trail of love with Laura and Harry Slatkin. 13 Flash Point Hitting the town with beauty’s titans. 8 BEAUTY BULLETIN 14 Light, Bright Dazzling colors infuse the latest launches. 18 An Insider’s Guide to the FiFi’s From who’s wearing what to where to park, RSTOCK; RUNWAY BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; JACKEL BY BONNIE SCHIFFMAN BY JACKEL THOMAS IANNACCONE; BY RUNWAY RSTOCK; everything you need to know before you go. 29 21 The Smell Test How well do you know Features your fragrance facts? CONSUMER CHRONICLES 30 The Age of Ambivalence While marketers are cheered by rising 22 Miami’s Booming Beauty Scene scent sales in the U.S., they still Hitting two of Miami’s biggest malls to check must contend with reestablishing the out the fragrance buying experience. category’s relevance for a new generation of users. 24 Stats: 2010’s top 10 fragrances in the U.S. 32 Smallville Small in size but big in ambition, niche fragrance 26 Shopper Stalker: Greenwich, Conn. brands are shaking up the European landscape. Who’s buying what in the tony Connecticut town. 34 The Power Within Brazil’s burgeoning middle class is fueling a beauty boom. But will international brands be able MISC to catch up to the supercompetitive local leaders? 42 38 The Player In the last decade, chief executive offi cer 06 Pete Unplugged Bernd Beetz has transformed Coty Inc. into a fragrance WWD’s executive editor of beauty powerhouse. Now, he’s ready to take on beauty’s top fi ve. on how some savvy brands are reinvigorating their businesses by reinforcing the mother ship. 42 Private Lives: Prima Ballerina Hitting the barre scene with ON THE COVER: Ingrid Jackel. Coty chief executive offi cer Bernd Beetz photographed for WWD Beauty Inc in his offi ce at 2 Park Avenue by Michael Nagle. FRAGRANCE BOTTLE PHOTO BY LACEY; POLGE COURTESY OF CHANEL; TRUMP, CAMPBELL BY STEVE EICHNER; MICROPHONE BY ANDREY EREMIN/SHUTTE BY EICHNER; MICROPHONE STEVE CAMPBELL BY OF CHANEL; TRUMP, COURTESY POLGE LACEY; BY PHOTO BOTTLE FRAGRANCE WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. during your subscription term or up to one year aft er the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 201, NO. 105. Saturday, May 21, 2011. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks aft er receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production one additional issue in May, June, November and December, two additional issues in February, March, April and August and three additional issues in September and correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630- October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared 5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Offi cer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Group magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully Chief Operating Offi cer & Chief Financial Offi cer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Offi cer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. screened companies that off er products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these off ers and/or information, please Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY label. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. BB1105-PG003-FOB-TOC.a;17.indd 2 5/4/11 6:57 PM 4 WWD BEAUTY INC EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD EDITOR’S LETTER PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR Eau de Success ANDREA NAGEL MASS MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR s we were putting together this, our fi rst fragrance issue, I asked FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Ron Robinson, the founder of BeautyStat.com, to canvas his BELISA SILVA EDITORIAL ASSISTANT members and ask them what drives their fragrance purchases. MAUREEN MORRISON-SHULAS DEPUTY COPY CHIEF While some talked about buying into the gestalt of a specifi c ART brand or celebrity and others talked about the appeal of the BARBARA SULLIVAN ART DIRECTOR GINA NASTASI ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Abottle, most of the answers centered around the emotional appeal of scent. “What makes me buy a fragrance is, of course, how it smells, but more so how CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), it makes me feel,” said Carol H. “I feel better about myself when I smell good. I KERRY OLSEN (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (Los Angeles), love trying new fragrances and it’s a pick-me-up, especially if I’m not having a MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tokyo) good day,” wrote Dana K. A contributor named MJ wrote: “To me, fragrances PHOTO are very evocative of specifi c times and places, even people. I like to get a new CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR fragrance to embody an event or time of my life. Whenever I smell that scent, LEXIE MORELAND, ASHLEY LINN MARTIN ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITORS ERIN FITZGERALD PHOTO COORDINATOR I’m transported in time to the special moment.” ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR No one is better at creating compelling stories around fragrance franchises PHOTOGRAPHERS JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA than this issue’s cover subject, Coty chief executive offi cer Bernd Beetz. Over the past decade, he has transformed Coty into a fragrance powerhouse by BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING creating a three-pronged strategy consisting of celebrity, designer and lifestyle ALISON ADLER MATZ PUBLISHER, BEAUTY INC brands. Now Beetz has set his sights on dominating in skin care and makeup CYNTHIA BONIELLO BEAUTY MANAGER JILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTOR as well, with the goal of becoming a top-fi ve beauty company by 2015. As Molly ALLISON JOYCE WEST COAST MANAGER Prior reports in “The Player” on page 38, those who know the ubercompetitive ODILE EDA-PIERRE ACCOUNT MANAGER, PARIS executive say he is more than up to the challenge. To those companies already SAM TODD, BEAUTY SALES ASSISTANT in the top fi ve, including Beetz’s friend and tennis partner, Estée Lauder Cos. MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES Inc. chief executive offi cer Fabrizio Freda: Consider yourself warned! HEATHER GUMBLEY EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, CREATIVE SERVICES JANET MENAKER MARKETING DIRECTOR No one knows better than Beetz the challenges of the U.S. fragrance market, DANIELLE MCMURRAY SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR but as Pete Born writes in “The Age of Ambivalence” on page 30, the picture KRISTEN M. WILDMAN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING JENNIFER PINCUS DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING is growing rosier. A year of strong launches has helped propel sales to almost ANJALI VIRMANI ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR INTEGRATED MARKETING prerecession levels. Now, the question is whether marketers can reestablish BRIDGIT MAZZA SENIOR MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING the category’s relevance with a generation of young consumers who aren’t JAMIE RUDOLPH MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING JESSICA INTRONA ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING predisposed toward wearing scent.
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Let the Holidays Begin! Big,Bold Jewels Your Own Shopping the World
    D D NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER Big, Bold Your Own Shopping ...Let the Jewels Private Caribbean the World Holidays Begin! p236 p66 p148 PERSONALBEST the business of scent A Whiff of Something Real As mass-produced perfumes become the new normal, the origin of a fragrance is more important than ever. TINA GAUDOIN reports from Grasse, the ancient home of perfume and the jasmine fields of Chanel No 5. oseph Mul drives his battered pickup into the dusty, rutted field of Jasminum gran- diflorum shrubs. It is 9 A.M. on a warm, slightly overcast September morning in Pégomas in southern France, about four miles from Grasse, the ancient home of Jperfume. In front of Mul’s truck, which is making easy work of the tough ter- rain, a small army of colorfully dressed pickers, most hailing from Eastern Europe, fans out, backs bent in pursuit of the elusive jasmine bloom that flowers over- night and must be harvested from the three-foot-high bushes before noon. By lunchtime, the petals will have been weighed by Mul, the numbers noted in the ledger (bonuses are paid by the kilo), and the pickers, who have been working since before dawn, will retire for a meal and a nap. Not so for Mul, who will oversee the beginnings of the lengthy distillation technique of turning the blooms into jasmine absolute, the essential oil and vital in- gredient in the world’s most famous and best- selling fragrance: Chanel No 5. All told, it’s a labor-intensive process. One picker takes roughly an hour to harvest one pound of jasmine; 772 pounds are required to make two pounds of concrete—the solution ARCHIVE ! WICKHAM/TRUNK ! MICHAEL !"! LTD ! NAST ! The post–World War II era marked the beginning of mass fragrance, when women wore perfume for more than just special occasions.
    [Show full text]
  • Performance & Sustainability Report
    Performance & Sustainability Report 2016 ABOUT FIRMENICH ORGANIZATIONAL PROFILE TABLE OF CONTENTS Firmenich is the world’s largest privately owned company in the Chairman and CEO Letter 02 fragrance and flavor business. Founded in 1895 and headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland, R&D Perspectives 04 Firmenich has created many of the world’s best-known perfumes Ingredient Perspectives 04 and flavors enjoyed around the world, every day. Firmenich reports its financial results and sustainability initiatives Perfumery Perspectives 05 (following the GRI guidelines) on a fiscal year basis ending June 30. Flavor Perspectives 06 In this report, all references to “FY16” relate to the 12 months ended June 30, 2016. Sustainability at Firmenich 07 Pathways to Positive 08 6,500 Employees 36 Countries Ethics and Excellence 10 Environment and 18 Resources 25 Manufacturing 3.2bn Swiss francs Innovation, Science 26 sites (CHF) sales and Society Partnerships 32 People and Communities 40 3 R&D centers About this Report 48 OUR WORLD Firmenich operates in three business divisions: Ingredients, Fragrances and Flavors. • The Ingredient Division designs natural and synthetic perfumery and flavoring ingredients. This division was the first created 120 years ago. • The Fragrance Division creates home care, body care and fine fragrances featuring Firmenich molecules and raw materials bought from suppliers. • The Flavor Division crafts flavors used in Sweet Goods, Beverages, and Savory Products. Firmenich’s Flavor Division aims to capture and capitalize on the continued consumer demand for healthier products. As a supplier to the world’s largest consumer goods companies and to a multitude of regional and local customers, Firmenich’s environmental footprint and governance standards matter to our customers.
    [Show full text]
  • Annual Report 2011 Contents
    Annual Report 2011 Contents Overview Sustainable business model 2 Financial highlights 46 Sustainable business model 3 Distinct capabilities 46 – Compliance 4 Our business 47 – Shareholders (2011) 6 Key events of the year 48 – Customers 8 Chairman’s letter 49 – Our people 10 Chief Executive’s review 52 – Suppliers Strategy 52 – Supply chain 53 – Information technology 16 Developing markets 53 – Environment, Health and Safety (EHS) 18 Research and Development 55 – Risk management 26 Health and Wellness 57 – Regulatory 28 Sustainable sourcing of raw materials 30 Targeted customers and segments Corporate governance Performance 60 Corporate governance 60 – Group structure and shareholders 34 Business performance 61 – Capital structure 36 Fragrance Division 62 – Board of Directors 37 – Fine Fragrances 72 – Executive Committee 38 – Consumer Products 75 – Compensation, shareholdings and loans 39 – Fragrance Ingredients 75 – Shareholders’ participation 39 – Research and Development 76 – Change of control and defence measures 40 Flavour Division 77 – Auditors 41 – Asia Pacific 77 – Information policy 42 – Europe, Africa, Middle East (EAME) 78 Compensation report 43 – North America 43 – Latin America Financial report 43 – Research and Development 87 Financial review 90 Consolidated financial statements 95 Notes to the consolidated financial statements 145 Report of the statutory auditors on the consolidated financial statements 146 Statutory financial statements of Givaudan SA 148 Notes to the statutory financial statements 152 Appropriation of available earnings of Givaudan SA 153 Report of the statutory auditors on the financial statements Our Brand: Engaging the Senses Introduction As the leading company in the fragrance and flavour industry, Givaudan develops unique and innovative fragrance and flavour creations for its customers around the world.
    [Show full text]
  • Smell Incredible in 2021 Hello Parfume Lovers!
    THE ULTIMATE GUIDE SMELL INCREDIBLE IN 2021 HELLO PARFUME LOVERS! The beauty and true power of perfumes is that they are deeply personal. They can evoke strong memo- ries with a single note. They can draw us to others, creating special bonds. And they can make us feel exactly like we want to feel; sexy, beautiful, relaxed or bossy. In this way fragrance is also a form of ex- pression, a way of revealing your mood or personal- ity, giving others a piece of yourself simply through smell. In this little booklet, we share a few interesting, fun and practical facts and tips about all the awesome the ways fragrance can have an impact on your ev- eryday life. 2 CONTENTS FACTS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT PERFUME 4 HOW TO CHOOSE »THE« FRAGRANCE? 8 FRAGRANCE STRUCTURE 11 FRAGRANCE FAMILIES 14 CHOOSE YOUR PERFECT »SECOND SKIN« FRAGRANCE 17 HOW DO YOU WANT TO FEEL? 23 THE POWER OF FRAGRANCE: HEALTH BENEFITS 25 FASCINATING LINK BETWEEN FRAGRANCES, EMOTIONS AND 28 BEHAVIOUR THE FORCE OF FRAGRANCE-ATTRACTION 30 PERFUME: THE STORY OF A MURDERER 33 THINGS NO ONE EVER TELLS YOU ABOUT PERFUME: 36 PERFUME: from hand-pressed to fully personalized 40 READY FOR THE FUTURE OF COSMETICS 43 FIRST SMART PERFUME IN THE WORLD 45 3 FACTS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT PERFUME Fragrance and perfume are an important part of our everyday lives, yet we do not know a lot about their origin, background and frankly, simple day-to-day, usage-related facts. So, we’d like to take you on a brief perfume history tour and translate some of the commonly unknown phrases we often hear when shopping for our perfect perfume.
    [Show full text]
  • Table of Contents
    Table of Contents Foreword Letter from the Chairman 4 Letter from the CEO 6 Fragrance Division 9 Fine Fragrances 11 Consumer Products 12 Fragrance Ingredients 13 Flavour Division 15 Asia Pacific 16 North America 17 Europe, Africa and Middle East 17 Latin America 17 Research and Development 19 Fragrances 21 Flavours 22 Corporate Activities and Organisation 25 GivaudanAccessTM 26 Safety and Environmental Protection 27 Human Resources 28 Corporate Governance 30 Givaudan Securities 35 Financial Review 38 Consolidated Financial Statements 39 Consolidated Income Statement 39 Consolidated Balance Sheet 40 Consolidated Statement of Changes in Equity 41 Consolidated Cash Flow Statement 42 Notes to the Consolidated Financial Statements 43 Report of the Group Auditors 71 Pro forma Condensed Consolidated Income Statement (unaudited) 72 Pro forma Condensed Consolidated Income Statement 72 Notes to the Pro forma Condensed Consolidated Income Statement 73 Statutory Financial Statements of Givaudan SA 74 (Group Holding Company) Income Statement 74 Balance Sheet 75 Notes to the Financial Statements 76 Appropriation of Available Earnings of Givaudan SA 78 Report of the Statutory Auditors 79 Givaudan World-wide 81 Givaudan - Annual Report 2001 1 Traveller’s Tree The endemic Ravenala madagascariensis has been named the Traveller’s Tree because around one litre of water is accumulated in each leaf base. This water is very useful for travellers in an emergency; and if you are in such a situation and have to cut one of the stalks at the base with your machete, you may additionally enjoy a refreshing green and somewhat floral scent. It is said that a traveller in need, standing in front of the tree and making a wish, will have this wish fulfilled.
    [Show full text]
  • Hugo Boss Won Three of the Four Dolce & Gabbana, Parfum Sparkle of Fruit with a Warm DEVELOPMENTS Cairo Shopping Fifi Awards for Men’S Fragrances in 2003
    product. Charles Reaching out to the segment of more than Schumann, the model 35 million people under the age of 25 in Egypt, for the fragrance’s Hugo recently sponsored a welcome party at campaign, has been the American University in Cairo that embodied the face of the the spirit of the modern generation. Students Baldessarini fashion collection for the last four years. His range of Boss fragrances has lifestyle and success struck a chord with successful as the proprietor men and women. of Schumann’s in Boss Bottled, introduced Munich - one of in 1998, represents the most famous enjoyed fragrances contemporary masculinity bars in Europe and samples during the that reconciles apparently where the campaign three-day event. Prestige Distribution, one of the largest local Distribution also represents such conflicting concepts: brains was shot – perfectly “Work hard, fragrance agents. prestigious brands as the Yves and guts, knowledge and represents the play hard” was the Saint Laurent Beauté Group, feeling, reason and emotion. brand. theme of a giant ACHIEVEMENTS Max Factor cosmetics, Kenzo, A multifaceted fragrance, board game played A testament to its innovation and international Puig, Sogedimo, Moschino, it combines a cool, fresh RECENT out at two popular popularity, Hugo Boss won three of the four Dolce & Gabbana, Parfum sparkle of fruit with a warm DEVELOPMENTS Cairo shopping Fifi Awards for men’s fragrances in 2003. In the Balmain and Loewe. sensuous undertone. It is an Boss Intense, the centers, the Serag Haute Couture category, Baldessarini Hugo Boss unmistakable masculine scent newest addition to and Akkad malls. won both Best Parfum and Best Flacon for a new PRODUCT for the man who redefines success, self-confident the women’s fragrance line-up was launched Staged outside the launch.
    [Show full text]
  • Download ATELIER, Our Brand Collection
    ATELIER _ our Brand Portfolio Acqua dell’Elba is the Essence of the Sea. Its uniqueness lies in the creation of artisan fragrances inspired by the sea in one of the most beautiful island of the Mediterranean Sea. Each product is created by expert Tuscan craftsmen using natural raw materials of the highest quality. Acqua dell’Elba is a family-run artisan fragrance house from Tuscany, started 18 years ago in Marciana Marina. It has a network of 28 branded retail outlets: 19 on Elba Island and 9 further stores located in some of Italy’s most beautiful destinations (Florence, Rome, Siena, Lucca, Como, Venice and Palermo). It has also developed a network of over 580 independent perfumeries across Italy that stock the products. Argan History Imagine walking in a semi-desert place, where dry winds blow and the earth breaks due to the lack of water. This is where Argan plants grow. With wide and rounded crowns, dark green and leathery leaves, gnar- led trunks, these incre- dible trees survive the difficult conditions of the Souss plain, giving life to a precious fru- it, whose oil has sur- prising properties. Even today, Argan berries are harvested by the expert hands of Berber women, who extract oil in a traditional way, through a very ancient process. Pure Argan oil is a rare and precious ingredient, a beauty ritual handed down for centuries for the care and rejuvena- tion of skin and hair. Argan Beneficial Properties Extremely rich in vitamin A, vitamin E, Omega-6 and anti- oxidants, Argan oil has always been known for its nutritional and moisturizing properties.
    [Show full text]
  • Faculdade De Tecnologia E Ciências Sociais Aplicadas – Fatecs Curso: Publicidade E Propaganda
    FACULDADE DE TECNOLOGIA E CIÊNCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS – FATECS CURSO: PUBLICIDADE E PROPAGANDA NÁDIA PEREIRA DOS SANTOS 21262430 QUE CHEIRO É ESSE QUE VEJO E OUÇO? PROFESSORA ORIENTADORA: URSULA BETINA DIESEL Brasília/DF, novembro de 2015 2 NÁDIA PEREIRA DOS SANTOS QUE CHEIRO É ESSE QUE VEJO E OUÇO? Trabalho de Curso (TC) apresentado como um dos requisitos para a conclusão do curso Publicidade e Propaganda do UniCEUB – Centro Universitário de Brasília. Orientadora: MSc. Ursula Betina Diesel Brasília 2015 3 Nádia Pereira dos Santos QUE CHEIRO É ESSE QUE VEJO E OUÇO? Trabalho de Curso (TC) apresentado como um dos requisitos para a conclusão do curso Publicidade e Propaganda do UniCEUB – Centro Universitário de Brasília. Orientadora: MSc. Ursula Betina Diesel Brasília, 25 de novembro de 2015. Banca Examinadora _________________________________ Prof.ª MSc. Ursula Betina Diesel Orientadora _________________________________ Prof.ª: PhD. Carolina Assunção e Alves Examinadora _________________________________ Prof.ª: Dr.ª Cláudia Maria Busato Examinadora _________________________________ Prof.ª MSc. Délcia Silva Francischetti Examinadora 4 AGRADECIMENTOS Primeiramente, a Deus, aos meus avós Abílio (in memoriam), Maria, Leocádia e Paulo por me transmitirem conhecimentos e reflexões de outro tempo e me ensinarem o que nenhum livro pode ensinar. Aos meus pais, que sempre me incentivaram a questionar e pesquisar. Ao meu pai, Augusto, que sempre me ensinou a conquistar as coisas sozinha e minha mãe, Nágila, que esteve ao meu lado durante todo o processo, e claro, seu amor por perfumes que fez desta jornada algo interessante e curioso. À minha tia Rosi, que me ensinou a perseverar, se hoje tenho amor ao estudo devo agradecer principalmente a você, que provou que podemos mudar nossa história com força de vontade e estudo.
    [Show full text]
  • Le Chypre, Un Parfum Au Cours Des Ages, Cahier Des Alpes –Maritimes N°8 1910’S
    Saturday April, 7th - h. 12.30 pm « » With Bruno Hervé OSMOTHEQUE Perfumer and Osmocurator L’Osmothèque - A few figures 4000 PERFUMES IN THE COLLECTION 800 DiSCONTINUED PERFUMES 200 PERFUMES RE-CREATED BASED ON ORIGINAL FORMULAS 27 YEARS OLD INSTITUTION 100 000 VISITORS SINCE IT’S CREATION 5 000 VISITORS EACH YEAR 1500 RARE OR DISCONTUNUED RAW MATERIALS 12 OSMOCURATORS – PERFUMERS INVOLVED 2 SUBSIDIARIES: AU MIP GRASSE / NEW YORK The origin of Chypre Iconic Fragance XVII th – Early XVIII th centuries « La poudre de Chypre » The word “Chypre” or “Cypre” designates an oak tree in Old French. Chypre powder, which has given its name to the Chypre family in perfumery, is made mostly from the moss that lives as a parasite on oak trees. Oak moss is always mixed with bits of bark torn off when moss is harvested, so its smell mingles with the scent of the tannin, a fragrant green component of the oak wood. Long ago fashionable people used Chypre powder to powder their skin or their wig. It was also used in making potpourri, “sachets” and baskets of fragrances. The chypre family The Chypre Family The differents notes: - Bergamot Chypre - Rose - Jasmin Fruity Chypre - Cistus – Labdanum - Oak’s Moss Floral Aldehydic - Patchouli Chypre Leather Chypre Aromatic Chypre Green Chypre Floral Chypre The first Chypres (before 1917) Eau de Chypre Cyprisine Chypre de Paris Guerlain Guerlain Guerlain 1850 1894 1909 Chypre de Tentation Chypre Roger & Gallet Lubin 1893 1898 • Eau de Chypre (Guerlain, near 1850) • Poudre de Riz Chypre (Florida, near 1900) • Chypre
    [Show full text]
  • All in the Family Last Year, There Were 760 New Women's Scents, and That's Not Counting the Thousands Already Lining the Display Shelves
    All in the Family Last year, there were 760 new women's scents, and that's not counting the thousands already lining the display shelves. Where do you start? Narrow your preference to a single family-though be warned: The experts don't always agree on categorizations. If there's a perfume you already love, it undoubtedly has variations­ on·a-theme siblings, cousins, and in-laws that may draw you in, too. -LiNDSY VAN GELDER Fresh inclliding rose, lily, tuberose, marigold, These are the lightest, sportiest muguet, and jasmine. splashes, designed to smell like CLiNIQUE HAPPY: Pink grapefruit meets orchids lemon slices (the citrus group), and lilies in an effervescent fruity floral. fresh herbs and mowed grass (the TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY GIRL: Fresh and ck green group), or the ocean (the young, with apple blossoms and mint. marine group). DIOR MISS DIOR: The fragrance that, in 1947, • IF YOU LIKE CAlVIN KLEIN CK ONE: launched Christian Dior as a perfume The citrus-and-green-tea scent that put clean­ house as well. It is subtle and greenish. cut unisex fragrances on the map in the '90s. ISSEY MIYAKE L'EAU D'ISSEY: Not as lush as • THEN TRY DOLCE & GABBANA LIGHT BLUE: the others, with sharp floral tones. Concocted to smell like the Mediterranean. ANNICK GOUTAL EAU D'HADRIEN: An almost pure citrus and probably the most Gourmand sophisticated in its class. 1 Purists might scoff that this JO MALONE LIME BASIL & MANDARIN COLOGNE: newish group of fragrances / A citrusy green unisex scent that's like an I'"doesn't deserve a category of instant Caribbean rain forest.
    [Show full text]
  • Boss Bottled HUGO BOSS Coty 1998 0,7 5 Woody Fruity
    P e r fu m e your world RANKING P e r fu m e your world UNISEX 66,1 million € WOMEN + 19,1% vs 2016 MEN 887,8 million € 574,7 million € + 5,2 % vs 2016 + 3,9% vs 2016 TOTA 1.53 milliard € in 2017 + 5.3% vs 2016 2 FINE P e r fu m e your world YEAR OF MARKET RANKING OLFACTIVE OLFACTIVE RANKING PERFUME BRAND GROUP LAUNCH SHARE (%) 2016 FAMILY SUB-FAMILY Coco 1 CHANEL Chanel 2001 4,2 1 Chypre Fruity Mademoiselle 2 Chanel N°5 CHANEL Chanel 1921 2,4 2 Floral Aldehydic YVES SAINT 3 Black Opium L’Oréal 2014 2,1 5 Floriental Ambery LAURENT La Vie est 4 LANCÔME L'Oréal 2012 2,1 4 Floriental Woody Belle 5 Lady Million PACO RABANNE Puig 2010 2,0 3 Floriental Edible 6 Alien MUGLER Clarins 2005 1,7 6 Floral Woody 7 J'adore CHRISTIAN DIOR LVMH 1999 1,6 7 Floral Fruity 8 Gabrielle CHANEL Chanel 2017 1,5 NEW Floral Green 9 Diamonds EMPORIO ARMANI L’Oréal 2007 1,4 9 Floriental Fruity 10 Olympéa PACO RABANNE Puig 2015 1,3 8 Floriental Green 11 Miss Dior CHRISTIAN DIOR LVMH 2005 1,3 25 Chypre Fruity 12 Si ARMANI L’Oréal 2013 1,2 14 Chypre Fruity 13 Daisy MARC JACOBS Coty 2007 1,2 13 Floral Fruity 14 Angel MUGLER Clarins 1992 1,1 11 Oriental Edible 15 Bamboo GUCCI Coty 2015 1,0 10 Floral Spicy 4 P e r fu m e your world YEAR OF MARKET RANKING OLFACTIVE OLFACTIVE RANKING PERFUME BRAND GROUP LAUNCH SHARE (%) 2016 FAMILY SUB-FAMILY 16 Flowerbomb VIKTOR & ROLF L’Oréal 2005 1,0 15 Floral Oriental 17 Coco CHANEL Chanel 1984 1,0 17 Floriental Spicy 18 Chance CHANEL Chanel 2002 0,9 18 Chypre Floral 19 Scandal JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Puig 2017 0,9 NEW Oriental Edible 20
    [Show full text]
  • The Estee Lauder Companies Background and History
    University of Tennessee, Knoxville TRACE: Tennessee Research and Creative Exchange Supervised Undergraduate Student Research Chancellor’s Honors Program Projects and Creative Work 5-2002 The Estee Lauder Companies Background and History Ashley Brooke Howerton University of Tennessee - Knoxville Follow this and additional works at: https://trace.tennessee.edu/utk_chanhonoproj Part of the Other Business Commons Recommended Citation Howerton, Ashley Brooke, "The Estee Lauder Companies Background and History" (2002). Chancellor’s Honors Program Projects. https://trace.tennessee.edu/utk_chanhonoproj/553 This is brought to you for free and open access by the Supervised Undergraduate Student Research and Creative Work at TRACE: Tennessee Research and Creative Exchange. It has been accepted for inclusion in Chancellor’s Honors Program Projects by an authorized administrator of TRACE: Tennessee Research and Creative Exchange. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Appendix E- UNIVERSITY HONORS PROGRAM SENIOR PROJECT - APPROVAL College: -I!h~ Department: ~ LAd Faculty Mentor: a ..aa..tt.dA~ L PROJECT TITLE: fu.., £ &&.i,lh ~t(.u ~~~~.r his completed senior honors thesis with this student and certify that it is a project ith honors 1 el undergraduate research in this field. Signed: -""jL__ "-----==-~~'-C"L.:..--=~~~..-:------' Faculty Mentor Date: I~ -----.;C-!+---=7~~t!L-=---2/z, General Assessment - please provide a short paragraph that highlights the most significant features of the project. Comments (Optional): Brooke has done a gcxxl job of researching and analyzing the major business theroos associated with Estee Lauder I s marketplace perfonnance. She merged data from a variety of primary and secondary sources, and did a nice job organizing and analyzing the data.
    [Show full text]