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Birds from South America at the Time of My First Trip to Peru in 1995

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Birds from South America at the Time of My First Trip to Peru in 1995 Birding Trip in PERU "CENTRAL ANDES" November 7-15, 2005 by Fabrice SCHMITT Bosque Unchog, one of the rare places in the world where it's The Diademed Sandpiper-plover, a sought-after posible to see the Golden-backed Mountain-tanager, a target species of the High Andes. endemic species of the trip. Impassioned by ornithology for more than 20 years, I fell in love with the birds from South America at the time of my first trip to Peru in 1995. Since this trip, I explored the continent by visiting almost all the countries, with the aim to disvover its fauna, its flora, its people... But Andean countries, and particularly Peru, kept my predilection. I already spent more than one year in Peru, if I add up all the trips I carried out in this country. Nevertheless, lots remain to be discovered! Since July 2005 I live in Santiago of Chile, where I carry out many activities with the association of study and Digiscoping in Amazonia. protection of birds UNORCH (Union de los ORnitologos CHilenos). Professionally, I work like nature guide for Kolibri Expeditions, a travel agency specialized in birding trip in Peru and all the neighbouring countries. Gunnar Engblom, the owner of this agency, is one of the best birders of Peru. With Kolibri Expeditions, you can carry out the trip of your dreams, in Amazonia or high mountain (or both...), for long or short duration, if you are a hard core ticker or a slowpace birder ! For more information, consult http://www.kolibriexpeditions.com or [email protected] In December 2005, I had the pleasure, in company of Gunnar, to guide a group of the English agency NATURETREK composed by John Day, Yvon Princen, Neil Renwick Veggie, Bryan Nixon, Peter Nickless, Graham Jones, A Sims, Philip Espin, David Stoddard, Raymond Winterman and Alec Empson throughout the "Central Andes" circuit. This trip is directed to the passionate birders, who want to see a large number of bird species. "More birds" is not the slogan of Kolibri Expeditions for nothing !! The other characteristic of this circuit is the possibility to spot a great number of "endemic" species (whose total distribution is less than 50.000 km²). And as one crosses a great number of habitats, it is possible to see a great number of species in very little time: from the 7 to November 15, we recorded 358 species of birds including 32 endemic species! It is also possible to add day trips to this principal circuit; those who added an day trip in the coastal desert and an day trip pelagic ended up with 405 species in only 11 days. For more information regarding this trip or Peru in general, do not hesitate to contact me: [email protected] Itinerary November 7 – Santa Eulalia valley Departure at 5 a.m. from Lima in the direction of the village of Santa Eulalia. From here, we went up the valley with the same name to the village of San Pedro de Casta to search for (and found!) the rare and threatened Rufous-breasted Warbling-finch. Our first stop close to the bridge of San Pedro, we found rather quickly 2 Great Inca-finch and 2 Thick- billed Miner, this last species being quite rare in this sector. From the bridge, while we were looking at a couple of Torrent Ducks sitting on a rock in the river, a member of the group discovers a Magellanic Horned Owl which resting on an outcrop!! A little further, we find 2 Peruvian Pygmy-owl, our second owl species. In the thickets and on the cultivated terraces, it is rather easy to observe some endemic species such as Rusty-bellied Brush-finch or Bronze-tailed Comet (particularly common during this day with at least 8 ind. observed) and the superb Black- necked Woodpecker. Peruvian Pygmy-owl We finally arrived at the site for Rufous-breasted Warbling-finch and we found 3 males and 3 females. Unfortunately, we also discover that broad pouring semi-arid brushes, habitat of this species, has just been burned by the local peasants in order to open grazing grounds for their cows. We had a late breakfast, while an adult Condor flew over the valley. The rest of the day we birded our way down the valley in easy pace to Lima to the search for the birds that we did not find while going up. During this first day, we already observed 7 endemic species! November 8 – Carpish Tunnel – Tingo Maria After a night spent in a sleeper bus, we arrive in the town of Huanuco on the east slope of the Andes. From there we leave for the Carpish tunnel, where a path enables us to observe the birds of the wet montane forest. The contrast to the visited areas the day before is immense here!! We are in the jungle, where each tree is covered with moss and epiphytes. We also find our first mixed flocks of birds with sometimes more than 20 different species in only one flock ! The stars of the morning will be 1 Unstreaked Tit-tyrant, many tanagers including 1 Grass-green Tanager and 2 Yellow-scarfed Tanager, 1 Plush-capped Finch and 2 Slaty Brush-finch. Later we continue to the start of the Paty trail where we take our lunch, and where it is possible to observe the birds along the road between two downpours. 2 Grey-breasted Mountain-toucan are observed during this pause. Humid mountain forest, Carpish During or way down until Tingo Maria, we observe 1 adult of Black-and- chesnut Eagle, and by stopping us at the edge of a river we find 1 adult of Fasciated Tiger-heron and 2 Sunbittern. We arrive at Tingo Maria at night fall, and we spend the night in Jennifer Lodge. November 9 – Santa Rosa – PN "Cuevas de las lechusas" – Paty trail Wake up at 5 a.m. to see night birds. We had a superb observation of Band-bellied Owl and Tropical Screech-owl ! A little later, we even discover, in full daylight, a Ferruginous Pygmy-owl on a electric wire. The grounds of Jennifer Lodge abound in birds. We observe a group of 7 Blue-headed Macaw, 2 Lettered Araçari, some Violaceous Jay and the endemic Huallaga Tanager. After a terasse breakfast, we went to Santa Rosa to observe a group of Hoatzin, "prehistoric" bird whose chicks have claws with the wrists to clutch itself in the branches. The rest of the morning we pass in the "Cuevas de las Lechuzas" Tingo Maria National park, where principal attraction is the visit of a cave where Black-fronted Nunbird several thousands of Oilbird are, a night bird close to nightjars.... but which is frugivorous and uses echolocation ! Later we are back on the tarmac road heading to the start of the Paty trail where we camp. On each trip organized by Kolibri Expeditions on this circuit, a donation is given to the community school where we sleep (installation of taps to wash the hands, construction of toilets, purchase of school material, etc). Before the night, we hear an Andean Potoo and see 2 Rufous-banded Owl, the fourth species of owl seen well in only one day. November 10 – Paty trail – Bosque Unchog Alarm clock again at dawn, to explore the Paty trail. This trail is absolutely fantastic, since it crosses superb pieces of wet mountain forest. Unfortunately, as everywhere on the east slope of the Andes, deforestation nibbles little by little this paradise... PN Cuevas de las Lechuzas Hopefully, Kolibri Expeditions project to connect the Paty trail with Bosque Unchog as en eco-trekking route and create two places for overnights en route (school of Paty trail head and Ñaupamarca at the bottom of the vally) will gradually change this. Certainly, the kids of the school are much interested in the birds, as they have been given a number of binoculars from a previous group. We observe and hear many species during this morning in particular 7 Scaly-naped Parrot, a male Long-tailed Sylph, song of Crested and Golden-headed Quetzal (unfortunately not observed), 1 Powerful Woodpecker, a pair of Uniform Antshrike, several Bay Antpitta, 1 Peruvian Tyrannulet, 1 Chesnut-breasted Wren, 2 Blackburnian Warbler, 2 Rufous-crested Tanager, etc... It is difficult to leave such an exceptional place, but we raise the camp in the afternoon to drive up to Bosque Unchog – the back way. We arrive there just before dusk and while the Kolibri staff raises the camp, we have time to observe 1 Band-winged Nightjar and 1 Swallow-tailed Nightjar. November 11-12 – Bosque Unchog We remain two days in the surroundings of the Unchog mountain, where we find superb elfin forests. It is here that one observes among the rarest species of Peru: Pardusco, Rufous-browed Hemispingus, Golden-backed Mountain-tanager and Bay-vented Cotinga. The landscape surroundings are absolutely sensational, and the feeling that reigns in these misty forests is unique... the name of "elfin forest" suits them exactly. Unfortunatly, these forests are threatened by deforestation. To try to protect them, Kolibri Expedition donates 20 dollars per client taken to the site to the local communities. This makes it possible to maintain the access track to the site, and social projects of the village such as support to the local school (which has been renamed with the epitet of "Escuela ecologica") as well as implementing a health post (Posta Medica), and to sensitize people to have interest in conservation of these forests (since at least 4 years there has been NO forest fire in the elfin forest area – which undoubtedly reflects that our prescense is making a difference.
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