This bookbelongsto: record isavailable from Library. theBritish ofthecopyright owner.permission A CIPcatalogue photocopying written orotherwisewithoutprior in any form orby any means, electronic, mechanical, reproduced, stored inaretrieval system, ortransmitted reserved.All rights ofthispublication may Nopart be © ROCKFAX 2020 Published by ROCKFAX inJune 2020 openstreetmap.org sourceSome mapsbasedonoriginal data from All mapsby ROCKFAX Distributed by Cordee (cordee.co.uk) (ISO 14001 printers) andFSCcertified Printed Limited inEurope LFBookServices Other photography ascredited All uncredited photography by Alan James Edited by Rebecca Ting Text andtopos by Alan James Craggs andChris Chee Tor inCheeDale. Photo: Mike Hutton Ethan Walkeron This page: Ilam Rock, Dovedale. Photo: Mike Hutton Tom Randall onEyeofthe Tiger Cover photo: Fax58 -ISBN9781873341520 Peak Limestone sourced from sustainable forestry paper madefrom 100% virgin fibre This bookisprinted onFSC-certified The GoldenMile(E5)-p.259 (E7) -p.401 Chris Craggs Alan James 1

H'boro Colehill Intake Willer'y Wildcat Long Tor High Tor Lorry P Pic Tor Masson DoveD Beeston Thor's WolfsC RheinsT Aldery R'dale W-C-J Raven T Chee D Staden Harpur SmallD Moss R Deep R Hidden Stoney Stny W H'Thief H'shoe Introduction Map and General Index . . Crag andButtress Index . . Route Index Harborough Rocks . . . . Colehill Quarry Intake . Quarry Willersley . Wildcat . Long TorQuarry High Tor . Park Quarry Lorry Pic Tor Masson Lees. Matlock Area Dovedale . Beeston Tor Thor's Cave . Wolfscote Dale Dovedale Area Rheinstor . CliffAldery . The Central Peak . Ravensdale Water-cum-Jolly . Raven Tor Miller's Dale Chee Dale. . Staden Quarry Hill. Harpur Smalldale . Buxton Area . Moss Rake Quarry Deep Rake . . Hidden Quarry Stoney . Stoney West Horse-Thief Quarry . Horseshoe Quarry Stoney Area Destination Planner. Trad Graded List Graded List Sport Grades . Gear andBolting. Access . Peak Limestone Climbing Climbing Walls . Pubs Climbing Shops. Accommodation . Peak Limestone Logistics Rockfax Publications Acknowledgements Other Guidebooks. RockfaxThe App...... 434 364 340 528 527 508 504 486 472 460 456 438 432 422 420 390 378 372 362 356 352 350 302 286 284 200 516 212 148 158 150 140 136 130 40 34 26 92 84 80 50 48 44 32 30 28 24 22 20 20 18 14 12 10 4 8 Contents harshly (ifitisstill there!) Photo: Mike Hutton -check itoutbeforepurposes you judge too probably thefirst boltplaced for free climbing the boltplacedon first pitch. This was referredThe 'crime' to intheroute namewas on Nic Kiddandsomephotogenic flowers spring Lyme Cryme (E3)- p.449 -onHigh Tor. Peak Limestone 3

H'boro Colehill Intake Willer'y Wildcat Long Tor High Tor Lorry P Pic Tor Masson DoveD Beeston Thor's WolfsC RheinsT Aldery R'dale W-C-J Raven T Chee D Staden Harpur SmallD Moss R Deep R Hidden Stoney Stny W H'Thief H'shoe 4 Peak Limestone Introduction Introduction Peak Limestone 5 H'shoe My first experiences on Peak Limestone were in Deep Dale and sections H'shoe

H'Thief of Ravensdale that are now covered with ivy. This inauspicious start was because our school outdoor pursuits teacher was a member of the BMC H'Thief Stny W Peak Area Guidebook team and he had "a few loose ends to tidy up".

These trips culminated in a spectacular leader fall from Padme at Stoney W Stny Stoney which might have been a health and safety incident these days, but was in Stoney

Hidden reality just a leader fall with no more damage than hurt pride...however, I was not deterred! Hidden Deep R Deep

Two years later I confidently hauled myself across the jugs of Sirplum, Deep R Moss R basked in the splendid isolation of the Debauchery stance, and took a few Moss R

SmallD more leader falls from top of Scoop Wall (then given E1) before tenuously succeeding and getting the emotional buzz that only big ascents like that SmallD Harpur can deliver. Harpur Staden These two sets of experiences cover the extremes of Peak Limestone. At its Staden

Chee D best it is world class with climbing-career-defining routes on superb crags. At the other end there are a few lesser outcrops and grotty quarries which Chee D Raven T can colour people's opinions, especially when they are usually compared to

the magnificence of the nearby gritstone edges. T Raven W-C-J W-C-J

R'dale In this book we have focussed on the good stuff. Majestic limestone trad crags like the big three of High Tor, Beeston Tor and Chee Tor; picturesque R'dale

Aldery pinnacles and walls in Dovedale; grand old favourites like Stoney dripping

in historically significance; delightful locations like Wildcat, Ravensdale, Aldery RheinsT Wolfscote, Staden and Harborough with their accessible and varied RheinsT

WolfsC mid-grade trad routes. WolfsC

Thor's Despite the pedigree of the trad climbing, the most popular Peak Limestone

crags are the sport climbing quarries that pockmark the Peak District Thor's Beeston landscape. They may not always be the most picturesque locations but the

likes of Horseshoe, Masson Lees, Intake and Harpur Hill have many quality Beeston DoveD routes towards the middle and lower end of the grade spectrum and are DoveD

Masson extremely popular and busy locations. Despite appearing to be worked out,

new development continues and there are significantly more great sport Masson Pic Tor routes in this book than the last edition from 2012. Pic Tor Pic Lorry P Lorry For top-end climbing, the sport routes of the Peak have long been at the Lorry P High Tor cutting edge with Raven Tor, a couple of Cornices, loads of fine cliffs in Chee Dale, the fierce fingery walls of Water-cum-Jolly, plus a number of High Tor Long Tor smaller crags dotted around to go at. This includes some world-famous

routes right up to 9a. Tor Long Wildcat Wildcat Willer'y Whatever you are interested in, be it a gentle introduction to sport climbing or a soul-searching trad lead of an E7, Peak Limestone has something to Tom Randall cuts loose on The Spider (8a) - p.254 - on Plum Buttress in Chee Dale. A route which sums up three eras of Willer'y Intake offer. The best of it is in this book but, if you are inspired to explore more, climbing on Peak Limestone. Initially done as a hard aid route

then check out the Rockfax app version since that has even more delights by Brian Moore in 1965. Then in 1987 Andy Pollitt got close Intake Colehill for the true connoisseur. to freeing it but still used a single aid point. Eventually Kris

Clemmow tidied it up although he did take a slightly different Colehill H'boro line through the roof. It is now one of the best and most Alan James, May 2020 spectacular sport routes in the Peak. Photo: Mike Hutton H'boro km

6 Peak Limestone Introduction Introduction Peak Limestone 7 H'shoe Coverage H'shoe

H'Thief This is the fourth Rockfax guidebook to Peak Limestone in the last 28 years and, in common

with the previous four, the print version covers the best crags and buttresses for sport climbing H'Thief Stny W and trad climbing in the Peak District area. This means that the book is a selected crag Stny W Stny

Stoney guidebook rather than a selected route guidebook. If a buttress is included then it is safe to assume that it has routes on it that are worthy of attention, but in most cases this is obvious Stoney

Hidden since the quality climbing shines through.

Since the last guide in 2012, the technology we have for documenting the crags has moved Hidden Deep R Deep on apace. This has resulted in a virtually completely new set of crag photographs this time

round with a massive improvement in detail. Being able to spot gear, lower-offs and chalked Deep R Moss R holds makes it much easier to get accurate route lines. Getting photos in the right light from Moss R

SmallD the right viewpoint makes the photo-topos clearer than ever. SmallD Harpur Rockfax App Extra Harpur

Staden A major difference between this edition and the previous ones is that this book is being released in a significantly Staden Chee D expanded version in digital format on the Rockfax App at App-only Crag

the same time. The digital-only coverage includes minor Chee D Raven T buttresses on established crags, small crags that have fallen

out of from popularity, lesser limestone quarries and some T Raven W-C-J where the development is ongoing and any printed version W-C-J

R'dale would be rapidly out of date. Crags and buttresses which Book Crag page are app-only are indicated in the text, and on the maps R'dale Aldery and topos with a green flag (right). The app version will be Aldery

RheinsT updated with new developments as they happen between editions and it is available through the subscription options which you can check out on RheinsT WolfsC rockfax .app . For more information on the app, see p.8. WolfsC Thor's

History Thor's Beeston The history of climbing on Peak Limestone stretches back

over 100 years and every great climber has tested their mettle Beeston DoveD on these fingery classics. The development goes from early DoveD

Masson trad ascents, to the aid climbing era; from big free ascents, to debates over bolting; from sport climbing development, to new Masson

Pic Tor routes of almost unimaginable levels of difficulty.

Beyond the first ascent details listed with every route where Tor Pic Lorry P Lorry known, only limited other historical information is included Lorry P

High Tor in this book. If you are interested then a brilliant book which covers the history of all Peak climbing, including the High Tor Long Tor limestone, is Peak Rock by Phil Kelly, Graham Hoey, Giles Barker and others. Long Tor Long Wildcat Wildcat Willer'y Guidebook Footnote Rebecca Ting on Pothole Wall The inclusion of a climbing area in this guidebook does not mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon (VS) - p.480 - at Willersley. Rebecca Willer'y Intake it. The descriptions of routes within this guide are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on has become an invaluable member

the accuracy of the description. The grades set in this guide are a fair assessment of the difficulty of the climbs. Climbers of the Rockfax team with her diligent Intake Colehill who attempt a route of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to and reliable proof-reading. She also

tackle that route. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors, publisher and distributors manages to do a fair few gear tests for Colehill H'boro of this book do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising UKClimbing as well as holding down a

from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety. full-time job! Photo: Paul Evans H'boro 8 Peak Limestone The Rockfax App Symbol, Map and Topo Key Peak Limestone 9 H'shoe The Rockfax App brings together all the current Rockfax guides with Route Symbols Topo Key H'shoe

H'Thief UKC Logbooks and presents it in a user-friendly package for use on Unequipped Equipped mobile devices. The heart of the App is the Rockfax crag and route A good route which is well worth the effort. 1 belay belay Abseil H'Thief Stny W information covering individual crags, or bundles of crags, in 'areas' length

which correspond roughly to printed guidebooks. The main data is sold 2 A very good route, one of the best on the crag. W Stny Stoney by subscription so that you can purchase access for a period of time.

A brilliant route, one of the best in the Peak. Stoney Hidden Once you are subscribed, you will have every digital Rockfax guide 3 40m Variation pitch available on your device for the period of your subscription. You can Lower-off Technical climbing requiring good balance and (see route Hidden Deep R Deep download crags and store them on your device, so you don't need a t technique, or complex and tricky moves. description)

signal to be able to read the descriptions and see the topos and maps. Powerful climbing; roofs, steep rock, low lock-offs Deep R Moss R There is also plenty of free data available without subscription, enabling p or long moves off small holds. Moss R

SmallD you to get a really good Sustained climbing; either lots of hard moves or impression of what the App s steep rock giving pumpy climbing. SmallD Harpur is like without shelling out Fingery climbing with significant small holds on Approximate f heights any money. the hard sections. Harpur Staden For this book, the Rockfax Fluttery climbing with fall potential or a scary

h run-out. Staden Chee D App significantly expands 25m the coverage given A long reach is helpful, or even essential, for one Chee D Raven T within the printed pages r or more of the moves.

by adding extra crags, Some loose rock may be encountered. T Raven W-C-J l buttresses and routes.

Graunchy climbing. Either wide cracks or thrutchy W-C-J R'dale These are indicated by the k green flag marked on maps and awkward moves. 4 R'dale Aldery and topos, and mentioned A trad route on a crag where most of the other n routes are bolted. A rack of gear is required. 3

in the section introductions. Aldery RheinsT However, the app is always Crag Symbols RheinsT

WolfsC evolving so it is likely that Angle of the approach walk to the crag with the the coverage will increase S14 min approximate approach time. 1 WolfsC Thor's beyond the scope of what Approximate time that the crag is in the sun

is presented in these printed pages. E (when it is shining). Thor's Beeston Buttress on another page The Rockfax App itself is a free download and incredibly useful in its own right even page The buttress has some multi-pitch routes. without an active subscription. It contains a detailed crag map linked to the UKClimbing Beeston DoveD K crags database which also displays all the 4,000+ listings from the UKClimbing Directory The crag is exposed to bad weather and will catch 2 DoveD Masson of climbing walls, outdoor shops, climbing clubs, outdoor-specific accommodation and $ the wind if it is blowing.

instructors and guides, amongst others. The crag can offer shelter from cold winds and it Masson Pic Tor Map Key To find the App, search for 'Rockfax App' in Google or on the appropriate store. may be a good suntrap in colder weather. * map for scan

App-only Crag/Buttress QR code for Tor Pic Lorry P Lorry The crag suffers from seepage. It may well be wet smartphone UKC Logbooks @ and unclimbable in winter and early spring. navigation Lorry P High Tor A popular method of logging your climbing is to use the UKClimbing .com logbooks system. The crag is steep and may well offer some dry to parking Trees

This database has more than half a million routes on nearly 20,000 crags. So far, just over ! rock to climb when it is raining. High Tor Long Tor Path 41,000 users have recorded 6.87 million ascents! To set up your own logbook just register The crag/buttress has an annual restriction due to A crag Track A crag Tor Long Wildcat at UKClimbing .com and click on the logbook tab. You will be able to record every ascent C nesting birds - check the crag information. page Different chapter you make, when you did it, what style you climbed it in and who you did it with. Each entry Deserted - Currently under-used and usually quiet.

Pool GPS Coordinates Wildcat Willer'y has a place for your own notes. You can also add your vote to the grade/star system which Fewer good routes or remote and smaller areas. Additional of parking parking

is used by guidebook writers to get opinions on grades and quality of routes. The logbook Quiet - Less popular sections on major crags, Quarry Willer'y Intake or good buttresses with awkward approaches. can be private, public or restricted to your own climbing partners only. Town/village Intake

Colehill The Rockfax App can be linked to your UKClimbing .com user account and logbook so Busy - Places you will seldom be alone, especially that you can record your activity while at the crag. To do this you will need a 3G/4G data at weekends. Good routes and easy access. Train station A Roads Colehill H'boro connection. You can also look at the UKC logbooks to see if anyone has climbed your Crowded - The most popular sections of the most B Roads Scale chosen route recently to check on conditions. popular crags which are always busy. H'boro 10 Peak Limestone Other Guidebooks Advertisers Peak Limestone 11 H'shoe The limestone areas in the Peak have been documented since Rockfax is extremely grateful H'shoe

H'Thief 1913 when John Laycock included some climbs at Harborough to the following companies, and Brassington in his Gritstone Climbs book. Since then the shops, climbing walls and H'Thief

Stny W documentation has shifted from area guidebooks with limestone and organisations that have

gritstone to dedicated limestone guidebooks. supported this guidebook, W Stny Stoney especially considering the

We are very grateful for the huge effort carried out over the years by Stoney

Hidden difficult economic environment all those who have worked on previous guidebooks. The key books are present when we asked them! Hidden

Deep R Deep listed below, along with one essential website.

Access Deep R Moss R Peak Limestone South (BMC 2017) Ian Carr, Gary Gibson, Niall Grimes Moss R

SmallD BMC RAD - Inside back cover thebmc .co .uk/rad Peak Limestone North (BMC 2015) SmallD Harpur Gary Gibson, Ian Carr, Niall Grimes

Climbing Walls Harpur Staden Peak Limestone (Rockfax 2012) Awesome Walls - p.2 Staden

Chee D Chris Craggs, Alan James awesomewalls .co .uk Chee D Raven T Northern Limestone (Rockfax 2004) Alan James, Mark Glaister Equipment Manufacturers Raven T Raven W-C-J and Chris Craggs

Edelrid - Outside back cover W-C-J R'dale From Horseshoe to Harpur Hill edelrid .de/en/ R'dale

Aldery (BMC 2004) Gary Gibson Petzl - Back cover flap Aldery

RheinsT petzl .com/GB/en Peak Limestone Wye Valley (BMC 1999) RheinsT WolfsC Geoff Milburn Outdoor Shops WolfsC Thor's Peak Limestone (Rockfax 1992) Outside - p.21 Thor's

Beeston Alan James outside .co .uk Beeston

DoveD Peak Limestone (BMC 1987) (3 Volumes) Geoff Milburn Rock On - p.23 DoveD

Masson rockonclimbing .co .uk

Northern Limestone (BMC 1980) Masson Pic Tor Dave Gregory Pic Tor Pic Lorry P Lorry Southern Limestone Area (BMC 1970) Lorry P

High Tor Paul Nunn High Tor Long Tor Northern Limestone Area (BMC 1969) Paul Nunn Long Tor Long Wildcat

Rock Climbs on the Mountain Limestone of Wildcat Willer'y Derbyshire (BMC 1962)

Graham West Willer'y Intake Izzy Roberts climbing in a T-shirt in

February as the sun goes down on Intake Colehill sportsclimbs .co .uk Sag Ponir (5c) - p.61 - in Horseshoe Gary Gibson's website is an invaluable

Quarry. Some years we can get lucky Colehill H'boro resource in documenting new developments. and Horsehoe is a great place to get

some winter sun action. H'boro

H'shoe H'Thief W Stny Stoney Hidden R Deep R Moss SmallD Harpur Staden D Chee T Raven W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Tor Pic P Lorry Tor High Tor Long Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro 13 13 Peak Limestone Peak Acknowledgements Starting the traverse on pitch 1 of on pitch Starting the traverse p.452 - on High (E2) - Delicatessan as part climbed This was the of Tor. brilliant combination Delicatarius into Delicatessan (E3) which links this I thought . the finish of Darius wanted but be good bound to was which Fliss and I did it out check to Fliss Haines Photo: 2019. in May looking at I was later Weeks Inset: an old guidebook and discovered done it in July that I had already Nigel and mate with my 1984 evidence! photographic had even enough Guidebook writing is hard can't it doesn't help when you but ascents of major remember even classics! three-star Nigel Boothroyd Photo: For access the whole BMC Peak Area Area BMC Peak the whole access For especially but a mention needs committee who deserves endless praise Henry Folkard in rock touches climber who ever every from District. the Peak have of people who a number are There writing help while this book. been a great sections and many has read Kris Clemmow lower- on lines, feedback me detailed given Paper everything. - basically grades offs, also been have Mark print Pretty outs for attached. returned with scribbles willingly on his has sent me information Taylor Nick developments. route new Allen's and John are feedback great given who have Others Clark, Jon Jon Simon Cundy, Dominic Lee, Foster. and Neil Ian Parsons Fullwood, as good a guidebook is only These days had some great I have as its photography. once again Hutton Mike help in this respect. has come up with some brilliant shots from supplied have who Others the area. all over Simmonite, David Evans, Paul are photos Marsha Sharples, Coefield, John Keith Gibson, Neil Gant, Hazel Nick Balaeva, Brown Nick Fliss Haines, Turner, Andi Foster, all of them. Thanks to Greenwood. and Rob of it is still book much Although this is a new editions. based on work on previous done in 2004 job back Chrisgreat did a Craggs and has been a big help this time and 2012 photos. extra and feedback with proofing, the UKC/Rockfax Thanks also to in particular Ting for Rebecca team, trying to for Theo Moore sub-editing and sell the advertising of in the most taxing cirumstances. the from sit in isolation this we As I write in challenge the world has faced greatest of the Corona One bonus years. recent a full house of has been having lockdown which normally something me, around family short for special occasions these occurs only this it is important At times like to days. hope for as we matters what really remember can enjoy times when we better a return to normally and pastimes that we freedoms granted. for take April 2020 Alan James, Acknowledgements Limestone Peak

missed in this list. years. Thanks to everyone including anyone including anyone everyone Thanks to years. Townsend, Ian Carr and many more over the over more and many Ian Carr Townsend, Vince Smedley, Keith Sharholds, Sam Sam Sharholds, Keith Vince Smedley, Seb Grieve, Jamie Edward, James Jacobs, Jacobs, James Edward, Jamie Seb Grieve, Fullwood, Mark Rankine, Nicolas Ecoffet, Nicolas Ecoffet, Mark Rankine, Fullwood, Kris in particular Clemmow also Jon but effort in to the gear and crag maintenance. maintenance. crag the gear and in to effort There are many others who have put who have others many are There Thanks Gary everything. for excellent website sportsclimbs .co .uk. website excellent many of the new developments on his developments of the new many crags. On top of this he also documents of this he also documents On top crags. a prolific re-bolter and custodian of many of many and custodian re-bolter a prolific of bolting his many new routes, but also as but routes, new of bolting his many effort into Peak Limestone, not just in terms Limestone, Peak into effort so often. Gary Gibson has put an immense so often. first ascent details because they get because they typed ascent details first rest. I even have a keyboard shortcut his for a keyboard have I even rest. names stands head and shoulders above the above head and shoulders names stands nothing to write about. In that category one about. write nothing to Of course without the routes we would have have would we without the routes Of course companion on many trips. companion on many Green who has been a reliable and keen and keen who has been a reliable Green research. I am also grateful to Dominic Dominic to I am also grateful research. Boothroyd, was up for a bit of obscure crag crag a bit of obscure up for was Boothroyd, trips and my oldest climbing mate, Nigel Nigel trips oldest climbing mate, and my Haines (neé Butler) joined me on a few joined me on a few Haines (neé Butler) has been to several obscure venues, Fliss venues, obscure several has been to ring on the cover of the 1992 guidebook, guidebook, of the 1992 ring on the cover time. Paul Dearden, last seen in a rubber last Dearden, Paul time. relationship with some old mates from that from with some old mates relationship authorship - I also rekindled my climbing my - I also rekindled authorship The trip back in time to 1992 didn't end with 1992 in time to The trip back thing! think that 'adventure' isn't always a good isn't always think that 'adventure' although some of my climbing buddies may may climbing buddies although some of my in an area. Every trip becomes an adventure, Every trip becomes an adventure, in an area. guidebook gets you so much more involved involved more so much guidebook gets you authorship, but writing and researching a writing and researching but authorship, I had deserted them since I last took lead I had deserted since I last took them on the local limestone crags. It wasn't that It wasn't crags. limestone on the local been wonderful to get my fingers dirty fingers get my to again been wonderful lead on the 2004 and 2012 editions it has 2004 and 2012 lead on the recent years. After Chris Craggs took the Chris took Craggs After years. recent of the most enoyable things I have done in done I have things most enoyable of the The writing one has been guidebook of this 12 12 H'shoe H'Thief Stny W Stoney Hidden Deep R Moss R SmallD Harpur Staden Chee D Raven T W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Pic Tor Lorry P High Tor Long Tor Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro 14 Rockfax Publications Rockfax Publications 15 H'shoe Print version available H'shoe

H'Thief App version available

App maps geo-located H'Thief Stny W App has extra content Stny W Stny Stoney Stoney Hidden Hidden

Deep R Deep North Wales Climbs North Wales Classics Clwyd Limestone North Wales Slate Lofoten Climbs November 2013 April 2010 December 2015 September 2018 May 2017 Deep R Moss R Lake District Climbs Northern England Western Grit Northern Limestone

November 2019 February 2008 April 2009 January 2015 Moss R SmallD App-only guides Norway

Rjukan 2016 SmallD Harpur Nissedal 2016 Harpur

Staden Scotland Staden

Chee D App-only guides Highland Outcrops South 2019 Chee D Raven T Scottish Sport Climbs 2019 South Wales Sport Climbs Pembroke Wales Scottish Winter Climbs 2019 T Raven W-C-J November 2016 August 2009 England Available on the Rockfax App Eastern Grit Peak Limestone Peak Bouldering W-C-J R'dale West Country Climbs April 2015 June 2020 May 2014 July 2010 App-only guides R'dale Aldery Pembroke 2018 App-only guides Aldery

RheinsT North Wales Winter 2016 Otztal (Austria) 2017 Eiger (Switzerland) 2016 RheinsT

WolfsC France WolfsC

Thor's Italy Thor's Beeston Beeston

DoveD Spain

Kalymnos Southern Sandstone Dorset Dorset Bouldering Deep Water DoveD Masson Greece May 2018 September 2017 February 2012 May 2014 June 2007 App-only guides Masson Pic Tor Catalunya 2016 El Chorro App-only guides Tor Pic Lorry P Lorry Madrid Area 2017 December 2018 Zaragoza 2016 App-only guides Santorini 2019 Lorry P High Tor Tenerife 2020 Sasso Remenno 2019 High Tor Long Tor Long Tor Long Wildcat Rockfax produce

print and app Wildcat Willer'y guides to areas all

over Europe Willer'y

Intake New book Late 2020 rockfax .com Intake Colehill Spain : Costa Blanca Spain : Mallorca The Dolomites San Vito Lo Capo 32 titles in print France : Ariege France : Lang.Roussillon France : Haute Provence France : Côte d’Azur Chamonix Colehill

H'boro February 2013 April 2020 November 2019 November 2020 18 less than 6 December 2012 November 2011 December 2009 February 2017 October 2016 years old

H'boro

H'shoe H'Thief W Stny Stoney Hidden R Deep R Moss SmallD Harpur Staden D Chee T Raven W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Tor Pic P Lorry Tor High Tor Long Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro 17 Logistics

Peak Limestone Limestone Peak

(8c) - Extension on Mecca Buys Jordan Hutton Mike Photo: Tor. p.294 - at Raven 16 H'shoe H'Thief Stny W Stoney Hidden Deep R Moss R SmallD Harpur Staden Chee D Raven T W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Pic Tor Lorry P High Tor Long Tor Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro km

18 Peak Limestone Logistics Peak Limestone Logistics 19

H'shoe This Map 10km Tourist Information H'shoe

H'Thief Mountain Rescue Gear Shop A57 Awesome Walls In the event of an accident requiring the assistance of Mountain Rescue: Climbing Wall p.2

Groceries H'Thief Stny W Dial 112 and ask for ‘POLICE - MOUNTAIN RESCUE' Pharmacy Sheffield

All mountain rescue incidents in the Peak District area fall under the responsibility of W Stny Stoney Other Maps Edale Derbyshire Constabulary. If in any doubt request Derbyshire Police Operations Room. Campsite Hope Stoney Hidden YHA Bamford Pub Castleton

Tourist Information Fast food Hidden Deep R Deep Cafe Stoney Area p.48 If you are short of ideas of what to do on a wet day or need some accommodation, take a A6 Hathersage Deep R

Moss R look at the visitpeakdistrict .com. This web site contains much more useful information than Bradwell Totley it is possible to include in these pages. Chapel-en-le-Frith Horse-Thief Quarry Outside Moss R SmallD There are Tourist Information Centres in Sheffield, Buxton, Castleton, Bakewell, Cromford, A623 Moss Rake p.84 p.21

Middleton and Matlock marked on the maps with a small blue 'i' symbol. p.140 Stoney West SmallD Harpur Horseshoe Quarry p.84 Buxton Area p.148 p.50 Harpur Staden When to Go Stoney

Peak Limestone can offer something on most days of the year. Winter sun-traps like Beeston p.92 Staden Chee D Tideswell Tor and Horseshoe Quarry can be pleasant and climbable in mid-winter. This is indicated in Smalldale

p.150 Chee D Raven T the text and the crag planner on page 44. Most of the steep crags suffer from seepage and Calver Millers Dale p.284 only come into condition from March and April onwards, or later if we have a wet spring. If Chee Dale Hidden Quarry Raven T Raven

W-C-J travelling from afar, take note of the crag seepage symbols to avoid disappointment. Once the Buxton p.212 p.130

summer arrives, the leafy dales offer plenty of shade and there is almost always something Baslow W-C-J R'dale to go at, even during a heat wave. A lot of the harder crags offer dry climbing in heavy rain Deep Rake

Great Longstone p.136 A619 R'dale

Aldery and this is often possible at Willersley on mid-grade routes as well. Once dry some very steep Raven Tor crags like the Cornice (both in Chee Dale and WCJ) and Raven Tor can be climbable longer p.286 Aldery RheinsT than expected when the weather appears to have turned in the autumn. It is also worth noting Harpur Hill Water-cum-Jolly p.158 p.302 Ravensdale Bakewell that the limestone crags and quarries are significantly less exposed to bad weather than their RheinsT WolfsC nearby gritstone counterparts. Staden Quarry p.340 p.200 WolfsC

Thor's A515 A6

Temperature ˚C Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Thor's Beeston Aldery Cliff Average Max Temp (˚C) 6 6 9 10 14 17 20 19 15 12 8 5 p.352 Beeston

DoveD Longnor Youlgreave Average Min Temp (˚C) 1 1 3 3 6 9 11 11 8 6 3 1 Matlock Area p.420 DoveD

Masson Darley Dale Rheinstor Average Rain Days/month Lorry Park Quarry 9 10 8 6 6 5 6 6 7 7 8 6 p.356 p.434 Masson Pic Tor Dovedale Area Masson Lees Hartington Matlock Tor Pic Lorry P Lorry p.422 Getting Around Wolfscote Dale Pic Tor p.364 p.432 Lorry P High Tor The easiest way to access most of the crags in this book is by car and the approach High Tor Hulme End descriptions are written assuming you have access to one. Certain crags are accessible using p.438 High Tor Long Tor public transport and there are train stations at Matlock, Buxton and Hathersage. Bus coverage Long Tor Quarry for the Peak District is reasonable. More information - thetrainline .com and traveline .info p.456 Long Tor Long Wildcat There are some crags that are reachable on foot from campsites or YHAs. Check the Wildcat Thor's Cave Cromford

p.460 Wildcat

Willer'y accommodation options on the following pages for more information on this. Wetton p.372 Willersley p.472 Willer'y scan for map for scan Intake Satellite Navigation Grindon Colehill Quarry GPS 53.276935 The parking spots on the close-up maps are indicated with a Intake Colehill Wirksworth p.504 -1.661346 precise GPS location and QR code (right). Just point your phone Beeston Tor p.378 Harborough Rocks Colehill

H'boro at the QR code and open in your chosen navigation app to take you direct to Dovedale Intake Quarry A52 p.508 the parking spots. p.390 p.486 p.362 H'boro Outside See opposite outside .co .uk Tel: 01433 631111 Main Road, Hathersage. department and in-store cafe. Very large store with climbing equipment Very large store with climbing equipment ukclimbing .com/listings/instructors+guides/ Instructors and Guides with guides, supplied is liberally The area If centres. adventure and large instructors session of coaching a one-to-one want you the someone who knows or climbing from the listings on: check then area Main Road, Hathersage. alpkit .com Hathersage. Alpkit - Main Road, X - Sheffield Crag - Sheffield Go Outdoors - Hathersage Go Outdoors - Buxton Royles Jo at - shops listed More .com/listings/outdoor_shops/ ukclimbing Climbing Shops Climbing There are numerous Youth Hostels in the in the Hostels Youth numerous are There are which District including several Peak - crags the limestone for placed very well yha .org .uk - p.49 YHA Eyam an it is situated hostels, youth As with many Eyam. up the hill above distance annoying - p.284 YHA Ravenstor the crag! above Literally - p.363 YHA Hartington and within Dale Wolfscote placed for Well and Dovedale. Thor's Cave of Beeston, reach YHA Ilam Hall - p.363 At the southern end of Dovedale. Youth Hostels Youth Accommodation and Climbing Shops Climbing and Accommodation Logistics Limestone Peak

recommend. which is very convenient but difficult to to difficult but which is very convenient behind The Duke William in Starkholmes William The Duke behind near Matlock. There is a camping field is a camping field There near Matlock. There are a number of caravan-type sites sites of caravan-type a number are There smithyfieldscamping .com Beeston and Dovedale in walking distance. in walking and Dovedale Beeston Small site in Alstonfield. Thor's Cave, Cave, Thor's Alstonfield. in Small site - p.363 Fields Smithy hulme-end-campsite .co .uk bankhousefarmcamping .co .uk Dovedale Area. Dovedale Two sites in Hulme End. Great for all the for Great in Hulme End. sites Two Hulme End - p.363 distance to Chee Dale and Staden. Dale Chee to distance A secluded site near Deep Dale. Walking Walking near Deep Dale. A secluded site - p.149 Farm Green Sterndale Buxton crags and Chee Dale. and crags Buxton Very small site near Staden. Well placed for placed for Well near Staden. small site Very - p.149 Hall Farm Cowdale dale .farm Water-cum-Jolly, Ravensdale and Stoney. and Ravensdale Water-cum-Jolly, Small site in Great Longstone. Good for Good for Longstone. in Great Small site - p.137 Dale Farm limestone apart from the Stoney Area. Area. apartlimestone the Stoney from climbing weekend but not ideal for the not ideal for but climbing weekend Situated below Stanage. Useful for general general Useful for Stanage. below Situated North Campsite Lees campsites .co .uk coolcamping .co .uk ukclimbing .com/listings/accommodation/ the following listings sites. listings the following maps where possible. You can find more on can find more You possible. maps where campsites are listed below and indicated on and indicated below listed are campsites between. Campsites convenient of the smaller and more A few campsites to lovely cottages with plenty in cottages lovely to campsites offer. This ranges from cheap and cheerful cheap and cheerful from This ranges offer. and as such has lots of accommodation on has lots of accommodation and as such Accommodation District Park big National is a The Peak 20 20 H'shoe H'Thief Stny W Stoney Hidden Deep R Moss R SmallD Harpur Staden Chee D Raven T W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Pic Tor Lorry P High Tor Long Tor Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro Matlock Bath. Bath. (p.460), Matlock (p.438), Starkholmes. Little Longstone. Longstone. Little The Packhorse, is because it can get crowded but beer, Great small. Matlock Area Matlock Tails and Ales Toad and pub with log burner good food Traditional Tor. High very close to The Boat Inn (p.460), Cromford. and near Scarthin Books. Willersley Good for (p.421), Bonsall. Mow The Barley nights music plus regular and beer food Great international hen race! and the annual Friendly The Rising Sun (p.421), Middleton. Good food. and local feel. Dovedale and Manifold Dovedale (p.363), Hartington. Arms Devonshire One of two pubs in Hartington which does of the village. and beer in the centre food great (p.363), Hartington. Cotton The Charles pub which does good food. family Welcoming Oak Inn (p.363), Wetton. The Royal have They staff. friendly and beer, Good food behind in the past. field camping in the offered Manifold Tor, at Beeston a weekend Good for and Dovedale. staff friendly ales and atmosphere, Good real look at on a weekend. to and lots of bikes The White Lion The Central Peak Central The The (p.352), Earl Sterndale. Woman Quiet beautiful beers, great country old Fine pub, Aldery Cliff. Handy for location. The , Taddington. Queen's Arms countrySmall friendly pub with a small shop. Pubs Logistics Limestone Peak

The deserted Miners Arms in Eyam during Corona Lockdown, April 2020. Photo: Nick Gant (on his bike) Nick Photo: April 2020. Lockdown, Arms during Corona in Eyam The deserted Miners selection of beers. Pricey. selection of beers. Can be busy, but has okay food and a fine food has okay but be busy, Can ), near WCJ. The Monsal Head (p.284), near WCJ. passed on the way to Raven Tor. Tor. Raven to passed on the way A climbers' favourite with good food and beer with good food favourite A climbers' ), Miller's Dale. The Anglers (p.284), Miller's Dale. Rest and good meals. A great pub in a tranquil location with fine beer pub in a tranquil A great Litton. Lion, Litton. The Red turned off! Doesn't serve lager and mobile phones must beDoesn't serve and mobile phones must lager everyone's taste. Open Thursday to Sunday. Sunday. to Thursday Open taste. everyone's Good atmosphere and beer but not to not to and beer but Good atmosphere Wardlow Mires. Mires. Heads, Wardlow Stags Three Good beer and magnificent views. Bretton. Inn, Bretton. The Barrel with friendly and obliging staff. and obliging with friendly small. and beer though quite Good food ), Eyam. Traditional pub Traditional The (p.49), Eyam. Arms Miners Dale and Miller'sChee Dale The Bull's Head, Foolow. where possible. where Peak nearby. fish and chips in the They are marked on the relevant crag map crag on the relevant marked are They with a sense of history and the best favourite, UKClimbing .com. An old Middleton. The Moon Inn (p.49), Stoney contributed by readers of the forums on of the forums readers by contributed and Horseshoe Stoney The list below are recommendations recommendations are The list below discuss the highs and lows of your day. day. of your lows discuss the highs and locations for an après-climb pint where you can you pint where après-climb an locations for with many fine hostelries which make great great which make fine hostelries with many experience. The Peak District is blessed District is blessed Peak The experience. Pubs are an integral part an integral of the climbing are Pubs 22 22 H'shoe H'Thief Stny W Stoney Hidden Deep R Moss R SmallD Harpur Staden Chee D Raven T W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Pic Tor Lorry P High Tor Long Tor Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro

H'shoe H'Thief W Stny Stoney Hidden R Deep R Moss SmallD Harpur Staden D Chee T Raven W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Tor Pic P Lorry Tor High Tor Long Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro 25 25 A busy Awesome Walls in Sheffield. Walls Awesome A busy Peak Limestone Logistics Limestone Peak Walls Climbing Climbing Walls Climbing training area. Tel: 01782 341919 Tel: 0161 494 9949 Tel: 0114 244 6622 Tel: 0114 awesomewalls .co .uk awesomewalls.co.uk uk awesomewalls .co . Board, plentiful parking. Garter Street, Sheffield. Garter Street, Awesome Walls Stoke Awesome Walls Sheffield Awesome Awesome Walls Stockport Sefton Road, Stoke-on-Trent. Sefton Road, Stoke-on-Trent. The Engine House, Stockport. and dedicated bouldering area. Logistics Limestone Peak surface on two floors and a dedicated Large bouldering wall with 900 sqm of Large bouldering wall

Centre' status by the BMC. 105 lines, 7 Centre' status by the Large dedicated climbing centre and the Large dedicated climbing first to be awarded 'National Performance first to be awarded

the tallest walls around at 23.5m. 74 lines the tallest walls around at 23.5m. 74 lines auto-belays, two bouldering areas, Lattice auto-belays, two bouldering Large dedicated climbing centre with one of Large dedicated climbing centre with one ukclimbing .com/listings/climbing_walls/ For more walls and information check check and information walls more For Centre - Wirksworth Leisure Wirksworth - Hope Valley Hub - Hope Adventure - Sheffield The Matrix - Sheffield The Foundry The Depot - Sheffield The - Sheffield Works Climbing need both stamina and power for many of the routes in this book!) of the routes many for and power stamina need both places to head at other times if you want to work on your stamina or power (and you will (and you or power stamina work on your to want times if you head at other places to come into their own in the winter when the crags are out of condition. They can also be great also be great can They of condition. out are crags when the the winter in own their into come Climbing walls are an essential part of climbing and there are many in the Peak Area that that Area in the Peak many part essential an are are walls Climbing there and of climbing 24 24 H'shoe H'Thief Stny W Stoney Hidden Deep R Moss R SmallD Harpur Staden Chee D Raven T W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Pic Tor Lorry P High Tor Long Tor Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro

H'shoe H'Thief W Stny Stoney Hidden R Deep R Moss SmallD Harpur Staden D Chee T Raven W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Tor Pic P Lorry Tor High Tor Long Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro 27 Door Dostoyevsky named Four on the brilliantly Adams Mike In good summers Cornice. (8a+) - p.274 - on the Chee Dale climbing in limestone hard becomes the hotspot for this crag on active scene and climbers District, with a busy the Peak get good summers. don't always we Sadly most of the routes.

Climbing Peak Limestone Limestone Peak 26 H'shoe H'Thief Stny W Stoney Hidden Deep R Moss R SmallD Harpur Staden Chee D Raven T W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Pic Tor Lorry P High Tor Long Tor Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro

H'shoe H'Thief W Stny Stoney Hidden R Deep R Moss SmallD Harpur Staden D Chee T Raven W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Tor Pic P Lorry Tor High Tor Long Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro 29 29 Peak Limestone Climbing Limestone Peak

(7b) - p.270 - on the Old Man River Cornice in Chee Dale. Photo: Rob Greenwood Rob Photo: Cornice Dale. in Chee Penny Orr demonstrating the great knee-bar the great Orr demonstrating Penny on Echo112 app BMC RAD app Access .uk thebmc .co .uk office@thebmc .co Climbing Limestone Peak

Grid Reference to find one of these in the appropriate app store. find one of these in the appropriate to Grid Reference calculate your OS grid reference from your phone's GPS system - search for for - search phone's GPS system your from OS grid reference your calculate using your phone's GPS system. There are also other useful apps that can are There phone's GPS system. using your emergency service no matter which country you are in and send your location in and send your which country are you serviceemergency no matter Android app store. This useful app has an SOS button that will call the correct correct that will call the has an SOS button This useful app store. app Android from the iOS or the app from a smartphone the Echo112 then download have If you Smartphone Apps Avoid leaving krabs and threads on routes while working them. while working them. on routes and threads krabs leaving Avoid 7) Check on the local ethical situation and consensus before bolting or replacing gear. bolting or replacing before on the local ethical situation and consensus 6) Check public who may be below. Try to be discrete and don't drill at busy times and weekends. and don't drill at busy be discrete to Try be below. who may public Ensure safe practice when cleaning or drilling particularly with respect to members of the when cleaning or drilling members practice particularly to safe with respect 5) Ensure crag politely and inform the local BMC Area Representatives (see above). Representatives Area the local BMC and inform politely crag If you encounter access problems when at a crag, DO NOT be confrontational. Leave the Leave be confrontational. DO NOT when at a crag, access problems encounter 4) If you BMC Access Officer or local Area Representative (see above). Representative Area or local Officer Access BMC Adhere strictly to any bans or restrictions on drilling. If in any doubt seek advice from the doubt seek advice from If in any on drilling. bans or restrictions any to strictly Adhere 3) Tel: 0870 010 4878 0870 010 Tel: (see above). Representatives Area the local BMC contact all areas For village. nearest British Mountaineering Council, 177-179 Burton Road, Manchester, M20 2BB. Burton Manchester, Road, British 177-179 Mountaineering Council, grid reference, example - for as possible of the details of as many a note make unsure, - see inside back cover Council - see inside back Mountaineering British are If you manager. or the land the landowner consent from stripping on SSSIs will require BMC’s involvement at an early stage can defuse a situation before it develops. can defuse a situation before stage at an early involvement BMC’s vegetation- Drilling and Scientific Interest). of Special be in SSSIs (Sites may 2) Some cliffs representative. They are always happy to discuss problems and often the and often discuss problems to happy always are They representative. birds. breeding or because of or biological reasons, If you do encounter problems then contact the BMC Access and Conservation and Conservation Access the BMC then contact problems do encounter If you geological for is protected or maintenance development for intended out if the area 1) Find BMC RAD app from your iOS or Android app store. Android iOS or your BMC RAD app from bolts. any or considering (re)placing routing new are if you especially or install the - thebmc .co .uk/modules/RAD/ or install RAD here the check can You read them carefully Please conflict. of avoiding as a way been suggested cleaning have the BMC Regional Access Database to check what the up-to-date situation is. situation is. what the up-to-date check to Database Access the BMC Regional and Maintenance Development Crag for Points Good Practice bolting and route re-development, crag routing, new for Points Good Practice The following Access arrangements can change and we recommend that, if unsure, you use you that, if unsure, recommend and we can change arrangements Access . crag on the climb to of access a right have that you imply this book does not place in these quarries over the years, but it should be noted that their inclusion in that their inclusion it should be noted but the years, over place in these quarries Climbing has taken Climbing has taken agreement. access no formal the quarries of describedMany have . climbing before with this information yourself Please familiarise Please familiarise introductions. with the crag given are specific details All the restrictions. resulted in satisfactory solutions which enable climbing to continue, but sometimes with sometimes but continue, to climbing enable solutions which satisfactory in resulted In most cases, patient negotiating by members of the BMC Peak Area Committee have have Committee Area Peak of the BMC members negotiating by patient In most cases, Dale and Water-cum-Jolly, and at some of the smaller crags like Ravensdale and Willersley. Willersley. and Ravensdale like crags at some of the smaller and Water-cum-Jolly, and Dale as crag approach paths and nesting birds. The main issues in the Peak have been in Chee have in the Peak The main issues and nesting birds. paths approach as crag landscape. This often brings them into conflict with climbers particularly over issues such issues particularly over climbers with conflict brings into them often This landscape. and conservation groups, all of whom are keen to protect their own part own their of the natural protect to keen are all of whom and conservation groups, The limestone crags of the Peak District are managed by a variety of different landowners landowners a variety of different by managed District are of the Peak crags The limestone 28 28 H'shoe H'Thief Stny W Stoney Hidden Deep R Moss R SmallD Harpur Staden Chee D Raven T W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Pic Tor Lorry P High Tor Long Tor Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro 30 Peak Limestone Climbing Gear and Bolting Gear and Bolting Peak Limestone Climbing 31 H'shoe Gear H'shoe

H'Thief For the traditional routes on Peak Limestone a good-sized rack with plenty of small and

medium wires is required. A few cams should be carried but be wary of trusting them the H'Thief Stny W same way you might trust a placement on grit since it is not unknown for them to strip out Stny W Stny

Stoney of smooth-sided limestone cracks when loaded. Around a dozen quickdraws will suffice for most routes and double 50m ropes are essential. A selection of threads of various lengths Stoney

Hidden and thicknesses will be found useful on many climbs for tying off old pegs, threading

pockets and saplings, and extending runners. Hidden Deep R Deep For sport routes, a single rope is the norm and, apart for a few exceptions, a 60m rope plus

12 quick-draws will be adequate. A rope sheet to keep the rope clean and a clip-stick to clip Deep R Moss R high first bolts may also be found useful. Moss R SmallD

Bolting SmallD Harpur The bolting history of the Peak area is the longest in Britain with many of the ethical Harpur

Staden debates being fought out here in the 70s and 80s. This has resulted in a variety of different bolts being littered across the crags varying in quality from solid to downright dangerous. Staden Chee D Most of the quarries now have relatively good bolts and many of the old bolts on the harder

crags have been replaced in recent years. Be wary of anything that looks like it has been Chee D Raven T there for more than 30 years since it probably has! Raven T Raven W-C-J

Bolt Funds in the Peak Area W-C-J R'dale The Peak Bolt Fund was set up in 2008 by local climbers who wanted to re-equip existing

routes mainly on crags like Raven Tor and the Chee Dale Cornice. A lot of work has been R'dale Aldery done on these crags but there is still much to do. Aldery

RheinsT The second bolt fund for the Peak limestone area is the Gary Gibson Bolt Fund. Gary has bolted thousands of routes across the country and is responsible for the majority of the RheinsT WolfsC bolting in the Peak quarries. Although Gary has established many new routes he also puts

in a huge amount of effort in rebolting older climbs. WolfsC Thor's Thor's Beeston How Can You Help? The main way everyone can help is by making a donation. The simple gesture of a £10 Beeston DoveD online donation each time you go clipping bolts in the Peak can go a long way to providing DoveD

Masson the necessary funding. If you want to get more involved then there is always a need for volunteers to help with the hard work. Bolting is a difficult and time-consuming activity. If you Masson

Pic Tor are an experienced climber, or have a background in rope access, you could be a real asset

to the Peak Bolt Fund. Tor Pic Lorry P Lorry If you wish to place some bolts yourself, please contact either the BMC or the Peak Bolt Lorry P

High Tor Fund first since they will be able to advise on bolting technique. It is important that all new bolts placed should be proper stainless steel bolts at least 10mm in diameter. For more High Tor Long Tor information have a look at the BMC Better Bolts Campaign - thebmc .co .uk. To donate to the Peak Bolt Fund or the Gary Gibson Bolt Fund go to ukboltfund .org. Long Tor Long Wildcat A contribution will be made to both of these bolt funds from the proceeds of this book. Wildcat Willer'y Willer'y Intake Intake Colehill

Peak legend Simon Nadin contemplating his next Colehill H'boro Support local bolting volunteers runner on Fingerdrive (E3) - p.368 - on the Left Celestial Twin in Wolfscote Dale. Photo: Andi Turner H'boro 32 Peak Limestone Climbing Grades Grades Peak Limestone Climbing 33 H'shoe The routes in this book are given one H'shoe H'Thief of two different grades depending on for bold routes whether they are a trad route or a H'Thief Stny W sport route. The table to the right gives

a rough comparison of the sport and W Stny Stoney trad grade with other international Stoney

Hidden grading systems. On trad routes the majority of the gear Hidden Deep R Deep is carried by the lead climber and is

hand-placed. Deep R Moss R

A sport route is defined as one where Moss R

SmallD all the major protection comes from gear fixed in the rock (bolts). SmallD Harpur Harpur

Staden British Trad Grade 1) Adjectival grade (Diff, VDiff, Staden

Chee D Severe, Hard Severe (HS), Very

Severe (VS), Hard Very Severe Chee D Raven T (HVS), E1, E2, . . . to E10) .

An overall picture of the route T Raven W-C-J including how well protected it is, how W-C-J

R'dale sustained and a general indication

of the level of difficulty of the whole R'dale Aldery route. Aldery

RheinsT 2) Technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c, . . . to 7b) . RheinsT

WolfsC The difficulty of the hardest single

move, or short section. WolfsC Thor's Thor's

Beeston Sport Grade The sport grade is a measure of how Beeston

DoveD hard it is going to be to get up a certain

section of rock. It makes no attempt to DoveD Masson tell you how hard the hardest move is,

nor how scary a route is. Masson Pic Tor Pic Tor Pic

Lorry P Lorry Colour Coding

The routes are all given a colour-coded dot corresponding to a grade band. The colour Lorry P High Tor represents a level that a climber should be happy at, hence sport routes tend to be High Tor

Long Tor technically harder than the equivalent coloured trad routes because the climber doesn't need to worry about the protection. Jordan Buys mid-way up the Long Tor Long Wildcat bold groove of Ninth Life (E7) Green Spots Beginners - everything at grade Severe/4c and under. - p.236 - on Two Tier Buttress. Wildcat

Willer'y Hard limestone trad is rare, in Orange Spots Experienced - HS to HVS/5a to 6a+ inclusive. General ticking routes. fact you could count on one

hand the routes above E6 Willer'y Intake Red Spots Advanced - E1 to E3/6b to 7a inclusive. The next level to push yourself on. that see ascents. Eye of the

Tiger in Dovedale is relatively Intake Colehill Black Spots Expert - E4 to E6/7a+ to 7c+. Hard routes for dedicated climbers. popular with Ninth Life

White Spots Elite - E7/8a and above. The hardest routes for the world's best climbers. probably being next on the list Colehill H'boro but this is still once in a blue

moon. Photo: Mike Hutton H'boro

H'shoe H'Thief W Stny Stoney Hidden R Deep R Moss SmallD Harpur Staden D Chee T Raven W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Tor Pic P Lorry Tor High Tor Long Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro 35 35 Peak Limestone Climbing Limestone Peak Sport List Graded Holly Rees making the clip at the top of the crucial top clip at the making the Rees Holly Crisis the Mid-life on Mecca, groove knee-bar Bean Jonathan Photo: Tor. p.292 - on Raven (8b+) - 374 274 274 374 125 313 318 317 276 125 312 276 276 459 254 281 294 296 269 290 375 299 458 332 331 235 299 268 327 437 240 240 331 294 459 332 385 275 331 308 290 294 240 385 259 441 290 331 375 275 256 235 290 406 240 331 332 268 ...... 5 26 127 212 457 289 266 . . . . 360, 373 360, Page Photos ...... De Vine ...... (Water-cum-Jolly) The Fall ...... Roam The Right to Mosey on Down the Crow Road the Crow on Down Mosey The Disillusioned Glue Machine ...... Monster The Free of Nature The Call The Ogre The Warrior Roof ...... The Spider (Chee Dale) Plum ...... Little The Prow ...... Enemy Sworn Closing Hot Fun An In and Out of Body Experience Escape Valhalla to Tree Out of My Thormen's Moth ...... The Auctioneer The Inch Test Torque Hard . . . Body Builder ...... Unleashing Direct Strumpet Brazen The Beesting Spear of Odin ...... Jungle Fruit Ruby ...... Road Fury Physique Wild Unleashing the The Crucifixion ...... Boot Boys ...... Armblaster Monumental Door Dostoyevsky Four Provocateur Agent Park (Lorry . Trick Q) . . . . Confidence in the Jungle Rumble Chimes of Freedom Fingers Pistol Bomber ...... The Beeston ** ** ** ** ** *** ** Ragnarok *** Powerplant ** *** *** *** ...... ** Entrée *** *** *** ** ** *** ...... ** Aberration ** *** ...... ** Tollbar ...... *** K3 *** ** ** ** ** ** ...... ** Elaboration ** ...... ** Boobs ** Ouijaboard *** ** *** *** *** ** Superfly ** Superocity ...... *** Nemesis ...... ** Caviar ** Flow ...... *** R'n'P ** *** ** ** ** ...... ** Gonads ...... ** Ultralight *** *** *** ** Eclipsed ** ...... *** Albatrossity Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω 8a+ Ω 8a Sport List Graded 301 301 301 276 276 276 276 276 276 292 294 292 327 235 436 268 294 294 321 269 331 268 331 445 308 292 275 294 294 268 459 269 269 294 294 294 321 294 269 294 292 ...... 16 293 277 273 286, 293 286, Opposite ...... Climbing Limestone Peak Devonshire Arms Devonshire ...... Techo Gran Amongst the Butterflies Love Spheres Three Karma Killer ...... Player Asia Shadow ...... Yuga Kali ...... Matter Dark Chimes of Resistance T) Rage (Raven ...... the Freak Zeke Malcolm X ...... King of the Jungle Crisis . . The Mid-life Mecca - ...... Barney Ragin' Prisoners Techno ...... It Funky Make Mecca Extension ...... Whore Mega Mecca Ben's into Act The Anatomy The Bastard UKClimbing .com ** *** *** Limelight ...... ** ...... *** Revelations *** ...... *** Monsterosity *** Bricktop ** Snatch ...... ** Barbarossity ** Clematis ...... *** Waddage ** *** ** ** *** *** ** ...... *** Dreadnot ** *** ...... ** 32 ** ** *** *** ...... ** Devolution ** ...... ** Hajj ** ...... *** Dreadnaught *** ** ...... *** Evolution ...... *** Kaabah ** *** Stevolution ** Hubble *** Mutation ...... *** Roofolution

Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω 9a Since 2003 the routes on Peak Limestone have have Limestone on Peak 2003 the routes Since UKC on and grades stars on voting open for been based are lists here graded and the and Rockfax In the middle and received. votes on the many substantial are numbers the voting grades lower In the established. is well and the concensus are actual ascents from the votes higher grades holds Limestone, and, being Peak limited more grades affect shed which can sometimes are list then with the you disagree If significantly. on the Logbooks voting by please let us know on - 8b+ 8b 8c 8c+ 34 34 H'shoe H'Thief Stny W Stoney Hidden Deep R Moss R SmallD Harpur Staden Chee D Raven T W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Pic Tor Lorry P High Tor Long Tor Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro

H'shoe H'Thief W Stny Stoney Hidden R Deep R Moss SmallD Harpur Staden D Chee T Raven W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Tor Pic P Lorry Tor High Tor Long Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro 37 37 Peak Limestone Climbing Limestone Peak Sport List Graded Mockingbird Tequila Ethan Walker on Ethan Walker route A Tor. (7c+) - p.259 - on Chee climbed First with a colourful history. who deployed Fawcett, Ron by in 1984 he - when he fell, tactics 'yo-yo' and started the ground to lowered Visiting without pulling the ropes. again Bouvier Jean-Pierre Frenchman style redpoint and the route repeated it 'Gandalf Le Magicien' as a renamed Although his name gesture. provocative well the ethical point was stuck, never Hutton Mike made! Photo: and truly 274 274 153 138 172 152 193 138 318 276 126 375 234 271 375 331 270 278 296 225 225 249 220 426 235 239 229 270 323 223 244 324 239 272 245 323 323 323 445 248 280 324 296 436 237 245 243 236 247 . . . . 29 375 333 ...... Tin Of Tin Max Museum ...... of Soul Power in Stitch Witch Malfunction Systems Virtual Insanity Gudgeon SocietySecret Snails of the Riverbank Big Zipper ...... Back Look to Never Fenris (Thor's C) (Thor's Fenris ...... Moat People Good Time Emporium Serpent ...... Midgard Soggy Biscuits King Virgin Dance Brachiation ...... Taste Cathedral Kiss ...... My Arcy Old Man River Robbery (Chee D) Daylight My Body is a Stemple The Third Order 8a to Couch ...... the River That was ...... Thud . . . . . No Mud, No of Sharks in a Pool Barefoot Bag Paper Brown The Sea is a ...... A Tail Bigger of the Lies Bored King Arthritis...... out the Squealies ...... Pump ...... of the Long Knives The Day ...... Nervous Breakdown ** ** ** Max-a-Million ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** Exorcised ...... *** Countdown ** ** ** ...... *** Sardine ** *** ** ** ** Ratline *** ...... ** Blockhead ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** Stung ** ** ** ...... ** Titanic ** Moatorhead *** ** ** Succubus ** Cosmopolitan ** Meterol ** Garderobe *** ...... ** Excalibur ** ** ...... ** Dope ** ** Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω 7b+ Ω 7b Sport List Graded 276 313 313 406 290 386 459 296 290 223 241 296 482 245 337 254 290 259 240 299 437 323 229 323 203 270 308 406 220 441 239 239 375 291 296 226 442 290 385 226 221 436 271 436 244 235 259 235 331 229 459 269 238 436 234 ...... 313 393 ...... Page Photos Opposite ...... Climbing Limestone Peak ...... À Bout de Souffle on Water Fire Sloe Gin ...... The Boltest Obscene Toilet ...... Indecent Exposure Half Decent ...... a Licence Without Fishing Attraction Another Toadside Madness Cordless be My Name ...... Hallowed Sleight of Hand ...... A Bigger Thud ...... Increase Tripe Let the Laughing at the Rain Cry of Despair Eat the Rich Boner Jonah's Extension) Honorary Buoux (Volx . the Loach ...... Stone Big Spider, Small Bath ...... Big Spider, Lover and Sentimental The Naive The Squealer Manmouth Big News in Me Wild Me? Why Wil E. Coyote E. Wil ...... Sky Fall Mockingbird Tequila Monty The Full ...... Jam Michael Foot in the Cupboard Sturgeon ...... Enemies Arch ...... High Torquing ...... Breakdown Total Breakdown Communication Buried Alive ...... Whore Proud Booster Rooster . . Body Machine ...... Monster The Lockless ...... Sunshine . . . Orange The Weakling the Boys for Toys ...... Exit Wounds Jockey The Jug Loveliness Vision of A ...... Zero Ground ** ** *** ** ** Lightweight ...... ** ** ** *** ** *** ** *** ** ** *** ** ** ** ...... ** Esmerunga ** ** ...... ** Celebration ** ** ** ** ** *** ** ** Vindicator ...... ** 666 ** ** ** ** Reboot ** *** ** *** ** *** ** *** ** *** ** *** ** *** *** *** ...... ** Boo ** **

Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω 7c+ 7c 36 36 H'shoe H'Thief Stny W Stoney Hidden Deep R Moss R SmallD Harpur Staden Chee D Raven T W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Pic Tor Lorry P High Tor Long Tor Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro

H'shoe H'Thief W Stny Stoney Hidden R Deep R Moss SmallD Harpur Staden D Chee T Raven W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Tor Pic P Lorry Tor High Tor Long Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro 39 39 64 63 63 63 63 87 63 63 63 63 63 63 62 63 176 176 176 176 138 216 128 157 172 157 172 187 217 157 168 171 193 169 132 154 171 157 157 175 436 425 436 426 492 495 427 272 437 493 428 492 224 426 507 406 458 ...... 46 50 169 181 155 435 . . . Opposite ...... Shot Yer Bolt ...... Shot Yer . Man ...... Megalithic ...... Edge of Darkness ...... Eye Eye, It In Rake The Arapahoe Connection The Lime Arch ...... Thousand Four Pants Love Mr. The Omen ...... Variations Rocky of Jericho Wall Rooley Rotund ...... Apollo Creed Out ...... Plum Tuckered ...... Day Prefect 95 Windows Open Season ...... School's Out ...... Coyote E. Wily ...... El Sergio Seas Coral . . Satsuma? on my Sat Who Senile Delinquents ...... Cover for Running Handy Borehole Handy ...... Une Crime Passionel Thunder Road ...... On the Road ...... Day Another Camden ...... Dead Ringer ...... The Crystal Maze Allsorts...... Avarice Tail Spotted Donkey's The Orcadian ...... Man Direct Megalithic Mutilation Expedition Cattle ...... Wife Run Your For ...... Against Fear Litany An Ancient ...... Rhythm ...... Fence Proof Rabbit Action Legal ...... Flowers With it Say ...... Max ‘is Wall . Riding the Bullet ...... Tales Telling Four ...... Rocket Pocket Going Straight the Hill Over ...... Old King Colehill ...... Dance Rain ...... Prosecution Private Peak Limestone Climbing Limestone Peak ** *** ** ** ** ** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** Shanacie ** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** Supernatural...... ** *** ** ** ** ** Nostalgia ** ** ** Superleggers ** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** *** 5c Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω 6c+ Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω 6b 6a+ 6a 6c 6b+ 62 63 274 274 274 176 193 138 153 132 193 153 431 436 321 492 225 203 225 233 427 492 458 339 427 202 244 242 235 233 224 428 426 339 272 256 428 224 271 493 281 220 278 243 330 462 397 237 226 221 482 . . . . . 429 435 282 227 Sport List Graded ...... Finish The Colostomy Max Head Room ...... a Paddle Without Up the River Grave Tucker's The Max Works ...... Our Kid's Orchid ...... Wall the Max to Open Gate . Nice One Masson ...... ‘em ...... That'll Teach Yotanka Tatanka . . . . . (Water-cum-Jolly) Attraction Fatal ...... Lost Contact ...... Justice Woof ...... Armistice Day Magic Much Monkey (Chee D) Attraction Fatal ...... Clarion Call High Society ...... - Pitch 1 Darl Demolition Man Adjourned Case In ...... ‘em Max Pax Boys Can Gods Your Fuck Jacket Strait ...... La Route Sucks Tendonitis Martial Music Gold White ...... Long Veil Black ...... Hilti Sound System ...... The Prophecy Quality Control Turbo-charged Monster Mouse Monster Turbo-charged ...... Hungry Eyes The Corniceman...... Mile The Main Motor Kiss Me Hardy ...... Incapacity Benefit Blessed are the Weak the are Blessed ...... No Hiding Plaice Anyway? it Line is Whose ** ** ** ** ** ** ** Reliquary ** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** Fuji ** ** Stealth ** *** ** *** ** ...... *** Cairn ** ** ...... *** Supercrack ** *** Rubicon ** ...... ** Exo6 ** ** ** ** *** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** *** ** ...... ** Santiano ** ** *** Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω 7a+ Ω Ω Ω Ω 7a Sport List Graded

- at Masson Lees. (6a) - p.425 - at Masson Lees.

Climbing Limestone Peak

Who Sat on my Sat on my Beail on Who Daimon Satsuma? is one of the better This hole in the ground The years. in recent quarry developments the two but main walls isn't perfect rock a choice of sun or good climbing with give does take although the shady wall shade, dry. to seepage and can be slow 38 38 H'shoe H'Thief Stny W Stoney Hidden Deep R Moss R SmallD Harpur Staden Chee D Raven T W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Pic Tor Lorry P High Tor Long Tor Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro

H'shoe H'Thief W Stny Stoney Hidden R Deep R Moss SmallD Harpur Staden D Chee T Raven W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Tor Pic P Lorry Tor High Tor Long Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro 41 41 Peak Limestone Climbing Limestone Peak Trad Graded List Graded Trad (E4) - p.451 - on High James Pearson on Flaky Pearson James Wall Legend has it that on Tor. team ascent, the the first and Clive of Doug Scott big breaking were Davies the off sections of flake climbed, as they upper wall which continued a process subsequent during several the route. free to attempts eventually This was persons by achieved in the mid 70s. unknown Simmonite David Photo: 97 97 97 97 111 110 113 401 401 410 103 310 123 417 316 120 389 451 449 449 230 449 446 441 386 441 399 245 377 262 261 405 366 442 407 386 262 207 261 499 478 369 498 241 385 380 257 446 470 259 209 449 259 441 259 453 261 441 386 207 337 ...... 3 21 99 418 379 447 367 383 Opposite ...... Donkeys of Brown Nightmare Go Budgie Go No Entry...... Wall Bubbles ...... and Thieves Police ...... Direct Tower Quiet Life No Light ...... Queer Street CrymeLyme ...... Perspex Splintered ...... of the Dance Lord Wall Adjudicator ...... Crack Cabbage Bogey Colonel Doris...... Wee ...... Flaky Wall ...... 42nd Street ...... Robert Brown Big Thing ...... Coming ...... Last Testament ...... Dream Fever Abide With Me Mad Dogs and Englishmen Grub Black The Beest ...... Absent Friends The Wong Edge Liberty ...... Cap T) (Beeston The Fly . On ...... Rave Demand Telescopic ...... Times Hard to Welcome Amber Gambler Mortlock's Arete ...... Touch Millionaire The Gladiator ...... Road Brick Yellow Our Father The Alien ...... *** Dewdrop ** Perseus *** ...... ** A6 ** ** ** Pickpocket ** Caesar ** ** ...... ** Multiplex *** ** ** *** *** ** ...... ** Jasper ** *** ** *** Oliver ** *** *** ...... *** Delta-G ...... ** Whacko ** *** ...... ** Paraplege ...... ** Approaching ** ...... *** Darius ** ** ** ** Dragonflight *** ** Majolica *** *** *** *** Laurin ...... ** ** ** ** ** ** *** Bitterfingers ...... *** Apocalypse *** *** ...... *** Decadence *** *** *** Ceramic ** ...... ** Deception *** ** Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω E4 Ω E3 Trad Graded List Graded Trad 87 97 118 118 401 401 108 310 103 316 417 318 318 120 416 317 314 417 259 437 230 441 451 257 228 228 452 338 339 442 395 442 261 336 445 405 241 451 236 475 261 240 336 441 451 336 344 262 206 405 229 336 451 ...... 1 33 117 391 335 Page Photos cover, 413 cover, ...... Climbing Limestone Peak Desolation Angels Hand Luke Cool Land Jungle Terra Incognita Terra Northerners Climb ...... Can't Jam Traffic ...... Midnight Summer Dream Badger Stuffed ...... Summer Wine ...... Extension Ceramic of Straws Wall Spizz Energy Power Yankee of Tales of the Riverbank Tales ...... A Miller's Tale The Golden Mile ...... Bait ...... White Blues Honeymoon A Game of Chess ...... The Temptress ...... Mad Max ...... The Flight of Icarus ...... En Masse Descendre Eye of the Tiger of the Eye Sun Chariot In Bulk ...... Schmitt Helmut ...... Round The Final Wide Shut Eyes ...... Incompetence General Ninth Life ...... ** Sox *** ** Mandrake *** Fantasia ** ...... ** Jezebel ** ** ** ...... ** Circe *** ** ** ...... ** Beep ** *** Supersonic *** *** ...... ** Menopause *** *** *** ...... *** Behemoth ** Kink ...... *** Castellan ** Autobahn ** ** ** ...... ** V2 ** *** Wilt *** ** ** Roadrunner *** Reproduction ** ** ** *** Bastille ...... *** Piranha ** Leviathan ** Scarab ** ** ...... ** Laughing *** ** *** Amazona ** ** ** ***

E8 Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω E9 Ω E6 E5 E7 40 40 H'shoe H'Thief Stny W Stoney Hidden Deep R Moss R SmallD Harpur Staden Chee D Raven T W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Pic Tor Lorry P High Tor Long Tor Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro

H'shoe H'Thief W Stny Stoney Hidden R Deep R Moss SmallD Harpur Staden D Chee T Raven W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Tor Pic P Lorry Tor High Tor Long Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro 43 43 Peak Limestone Climbing Limestone Peak 510 510 510 344 408 469 467 Trad Graded List Graded Trad - on High Tor. The crag isn't The crag Tor. p.445 - on High (VS) - ...... Walk Cat R) . . . . (Harborough Wall Overhanging ...... Direct Chimney Overhanging ...... Variant Wall Overhanging ** Tria ...... ** Silicon *** Lynx ** ** ** ** on Skylight Ben Rouse this long corner but that stretches grades its easier for known Then try Highlight is worth crag height of the the full out. seeking - Original Route on the Main Face big route (HVS) and the Simmonite David Photo: the E-grades. it is into that After (HVS). HS Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω S VD 66 111 113 114 311 105 100 410 410 128 417 120 127 219 171 120 512 353 264 344 358 353 469 478 455 409 484 469 208 478 380 347 385 382 465 442 445 470 343 254 480 465 342 348 249 377 471 465 388 392 451 445 480 347 475 396 445 382 409 343 470 209 385 . . . . 7 350 341 Opposite ...... West Wall . Climb ...... Wall West Medusa (Ravensdale) T) Wall (Beeston Central ...... Grooves Jackdaw ...... Billy Puffing ...... Alive Snakes Girdle Chee Tor ...... Ash Crack Le Crepuscule ...... The Cardinal ...... Golden Yardstick The Stalk ...... Crack Mitre Guts Ache Groove Groove Scimitar ...... Wisdom of Craters Ten Cucumber Groove ...... Golden Gate Wall Pothole ...... Galening Crack Sins Deadly The Seven Buttress Coyote The Thorn...... Wall Creased ...... Simeon Direct The Gymnic Effort Joint ...... Arete Aurora Purple Haze Purple ...... Thin Lizzy ...... Window Groove West Go Go Grooves Grooves Catastrophe Eliminate Beeston The Claw T) (High Original Route Mortuary...... Steps Gangue Grooves ...... (Dovedale) Peel John ...... Groove Lone Tree ...... ** Garrotter ** *** ** ** Nocturne...... ** ** *** *** Skylight...... *** ** ** ** Climacteric ** ...... ** Aurora ** Impendant *** ** ** ** ** ** Evasor ...... ** Froth *** ** ...... ** Sphynx ...... ** Suscipiat ...... ** Pendulum ** ** Sin ...... ** Entropy *** ** ** Lamplight *** ** *** ** ** ...... ** Amain ** ...... *** Cataclysm *** ** ** ** ** Ping *** ** ** *** ** *** . . . . *** Highlight ...... ** *** *** ** Padme ...... *** Conclusor ** ** Venery ** Evensong ** Brutus ...... Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω VS HVS Trad Graded List Graded Trad 111 110 113 119 118 119 116 119 311 401 401 410 410 103 120 172 417 172 120 417 123 368 209 257 469 475 347 254 251 471 392 209 454 347 209 395 353 207 385 254 250 261 395 475 452 475 480 229 470 370 433 395 261 452 209 475 469 385 433 207 433 256 347 442 482 ...... 13 92 115 210 201 146 365 253 263 485 371 483 Page Photos ...... Climbing Limestone Peak The Nails Zed Legs ...... Wall Tree Yew ...... Liquid Courage Southern Rib (Aldery C) Arete The Man Repair Bicycle ...... Symphony Pocket ...... Anomalous Tut's ...... Direct Lime Street Virtues Deadly The Seven ...... Via Vita Thor's Hammer ...... Sunset Creek ...... Left-hand Claw ...... Dead Banana Crack Real El Camino Medusa (Stoney) Route Left-hand Edge Easter Bingo Wall ...... Direct Castor Cleft Great Deaf Dove Shaking Crack ...... Ping Pong ...... Route Central Great The Flakes ...... Reliable Captain Last Stand Tiger's Growl ...... (Stoney) Scoop Wall ...... Direct The Flakes ...... Clown Cathy's ...... Wark Carl's Crack Dome Direct Pleasure Light First Crack Great Easter Island Easter Phil's Route ...... Sunspots Two Via Vita ...... Direct ...... Dies Irae ...... *** Aplomb ...... ** Anaconda ** ** ** ** ** ** *** ** Mephistopheles ** *** Sirplum ...... ** *** ** ** *** *** Debauchery ** ** ** ** Charas ** ** ** God ...... *** Meditation *** ** *** George ** Sergeyenna ** Silenus ** ** ** ** *** Armageddon ...... ** ** ...... *** Delicatessen ** ** ** ** Windhover ...... ** Erasmus ...... *** Alcasan ...... ** Aquarius ** ** ** ** ** ...... ** Peace *** *** ...... ** Helicon ...... ** Zombie ** ** ** *** M1 *** ** P.T.O. ** ** Prognosis ***

Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω Ω E2 E1 42 42 H'shoe H'Thief Stny W Stoney Hidden Deep R Moss R SmallD Harpur Staden Chee D Raven T W-C-J R'dale Aldery RheinsT WolfsC Thor's Beeston DoveD Masson Pic Tor Lorry P High Tor Long Tor Wildcat Willer'y Intake Colehill H'boro Destination Planner Routes up to 4+ 5 to 6a+ 6b to 7a 7a+ and up Mod to S HS to HVS E1 to E3 E4 and up Approach Sun Sheltered Dry in Rain Multi-pitch Restrictions Summary Page

Shelt- Dry in Multi- Restric- Routes up to 4c 5a to 6a+ 6b to 7a 7a+ to 7c+ 8a and up Mod to S HS to HVS E1 to E3 E4 to E6 E7 and up Approach Sun Seepage Page 44 Destination Planner ered Rain pitch tions Summary Sport Routes Trad Routes H'shoe Probably the most popular crag in the book with loads of well-bolted sport Horseshoe Quarry 265 23 112 105 5 - - 4 14 2 - 4 - 8 min 54 S U * routes in the mid-grades. A good suntrap. H'shoe H'Thief A small roadside crag with a set of close-packed sport routes. Popular with Horse-Thief Quarry 20 1 12 7 ------1 min 82 S E * instructors to teach leading. Sunny, sheltered and quick-drying. H'Thief Stny W Stoney's little brother. A natural crag with mostly sport routes. Some quality Stoney West 61 - 14 30 - - 1 9 4 3 - 10 min 86 S R * routes in a hidden location. Quick-drying and sheltered. W Stny Stoney Grand old venue with superb trad climbs in a busy setting and a busy sport Stoney 236 - 6 19 11 7 7 49 72 65 - 6 - 15 min 97 S E * ! K buttress. Lots of historical classics with some polish but a year-round venue. Stoney Hidden Part of the vast quarry workings opposite Stoney. The two walls covered each Hidden Quarry 23 - 8 13 1 - - 1 - - - 5 min 132

give a decent set of technical wall climbs. Sun or shade and sheltered. Hidden

Stoney Area Stoney A U * Deep R Deep An old lead vein mine with a steep wall of sport routes. A bit dusty but good Deep Rake 12 - 1 5 6 ------10 min 138 A } * climbing and very sheltered and sunny. Deep R Moss R A big open quarry with one excellent slabby wall and a couple of lesser Moss Rake 36 - 17 19 ------15 min 142 F E sections. There may be more development but not of the same quality. Moss R SmallD North-facing walls with a good set of sport routes. A nice evening venue in Smalldale 59 - 10 35 8 - - 3 3 - - 6 - 8 min 152 A T ! summer. The best routes are in the 7a range. SmallD Harpur The most extensive of the quarries with lots of sport routes on some good Harpur Hill 390 9 190 140 7 - - 24 20 - - 8 - 20 min 162 S U buttresses. Some poor sectors and it can be cold. Great on summer evenings. Harpur Staden Two north-facing areas: a fine trad quarry and a steep natural sport buttress. 75 - 2 10 15 - - 14 26 8 - 1 - 10 min 202

Buxton Area Staden Quarry F Y * @ A good venue for hot days. Staden Chee D The most extensive area in the book with sport and trad routes on natural 545 - 10 119 192 61 1 25 71 64 2 15 - 30 min 216

Dale Chee Dale Chee Chee F U * ! K @ buttresses. Sun and shade as required. Not much in the lower grades. Chee D Raven T One of the country's most important hard crags with world-famous routes in Raven Tor 88 - - 2 30 55 - - - - - Roadside the upper grades. A huge suntrap but seepage is a problem. 290 H E * ! @ T Raven W-C-J A mixture of mid-grade trad buttresses and hard sport crags on opposite 282 1 6 51 81 35 - 11 39 54 1 5 - 25 min 306 Water-cum-Jolly F U * ! @ banks of the river. Well sheltered providing sun or shade. W-C-J R'dale Multi-pitch trad routes on a towering crag with some great lines. Few harder 42 - - - - - 2 24 12 4 - 15 min 342 Miller's Dale Ravensdale S R K C routes and some polish on the classics. Bird restriction in spring. R'dale Aldery An old east-facing quarry with a good set of slabby easier routes. Quick to Aldery Cliff 30 - - - - - 2 21 7 - - Roadside 353 H W * access and in a secluded location. Some loose rock following tree damage. Aldery RheinsT A small wall in an idyllic setting by a river. Short and bouldery routes on - - - - - 1 8 5 - - 2 min Central Rheinstor 14 pockets. 358 A R * RheinsT WolfsC Three small trad butresses widely spaced in a picturesque dale. Mid-to-hard Wolfscote Dale 58 - - - - - 2 16 28 12 - 10 - 25 min 366 S U * C @ trad route with a few little gems to seek out. One bird restriction in spring. WolfsC Thor's A very popular (with walkers) cave with hard sport routes and a trad wall. 17 - - - 4 5 - 3 3 2 - 15 - 20 min 374 Thor's Cave A U * ! @ Some seepage but cool when dry. Thor's Beeston A beautiful suntrap crag with fine routes in the mid-to-hard grades. Some Beeston Tor 45 - - - 3 2 1 14 18 7 - 12 - 15 min great classics and multi-pitch routes. Year-round climbing. 380

A E * K Beeston DoveD A set of pinnacles and buttresses with mostly trad routes in sunny and shady

Dovedale Area Dovedale Dovedale 134 - 1 13 6 2 3 28 42 36 3 15 - 35 min 392 F U * ! @ settings. Some great classics. DoveD Masson A quarry with a decent set of sport routes in the mid-grades. Some friable Masson Lees 77 6 15 42 14 ------10 min rock. Sunny and shady walls. 424 F U * @ Masson Pic Tor This small natural buttress of trad routes has some good climbing on Pic Tor 14 ------4 8 2 - 5 min 433 A Y * pockets. Very shady and seldom busy. Tor Pic Lorry P Lorry Grotty quarry with a decent wall of mid-to-hard sport routes. Shady but not Lorry Park Quarry 29 - - 8 17 3 - - - 1 - 2 min 436 S Q * @ the nicest location. Lorry P High Tor The best natural limestone crag in the Peak with stunning routes and rock. High Tor 94 - 2 8 9 2 1 7 26 39 - 12 - 15 min Superb lines and climbing, little seepage and plenty of sun. 441

S R K High Tor Long Tor A secluded wall with hard sport routes in a very shady setting just seconds Long Tor Quarry 19 - - 6 8 5 - - - - - 5 min from the busy A6. 458

A Y * ! @ Tor Long Wildcat A fine natural crag with multi-pitch trad routes in the lower-to-mid grades. Wildcat 60 - - 3 4 - 2 30 12 9 - 15 - 30 min West-facing with little seepage. 462 S R * K X @ Wildcat Willer'y North-facing and with access problems, but good routes on some decent Matlock Area Matlock Willersley 62 - - - 2 - - 24 21 14 1 3 - 5 min cracks, corners and walls. A good hot weather crag. 475 A Y * ! @ Willer'y Intake A large quarry with a number of extensive walls of varying quality. One big Intake Quarry 176 4 42 80 4 - 1 6 29 10 - 8 - 15 min 488 A U * trad wall but mostly sport. Sun and shade as required. Intake Colehill Colehill Quarry 36 - 19 15 1 - - - 1 - - 2 min A sunny quarry with technical sport routes. Access problems. 505

A E * X Colehill H'boro Some delightful easy routes on a nice hillside. Only short but perfect rock Harborough Rocks 58 - - - - - 40 16 1 - 1 10 min 510 S } $ quality and very sunny. H'boro Totals 3057 44 467 730 428 177 64 341 462 332 1 Faded symbol means that only some of the routes - are sheltered / are dry in the rain / are multi-pitch / are restricted