Hidden Britain Centres help you Discover Low – discover, explore and become part of, the fascinating wealth of a land of stunning local landscape, history, culture, seascapes, beautiful skies LOW FURNESS food and community life in undiscovered parts of , and subtle light, tucked something that is rarely possible away between the Lake in better known holiday areas, District Mountains and Weekender Walk providing a truly different and memorable experience. Morecambe Bay.

Follow the trail and take a journey through this hidden corner of Cumbria. Find out more about the magic and mystery of the people who shaped the landscape of Low Furness and whose heritage remains for us to explore today. HIDDEN LIGHT-LOW FURNESS

Evidence for mankind’s The ‘christianising’ of pagan religious sites and the growth and ‘spiritual journeying’ from development of Christianity can earliest times lies be evidenced in and through relatively undisturbed Low Furness’ religious buildings, some of which are still active across the beautiful places of worship, prayer and Furness Peninsular. There pilgrimage. Recent archeological discoveries show that the epi- is a stone circle on centre for the growth and spread Birkrigg Common, burial of Christianity could have been mounds, earth works, the church of St. Mary and St. Michael, Great , a former standing stones, sacred Celtic monastic site built upon a wells alongside significant substantial Roman site and associated with the early Celtic remains of Neolithic, saints, at the heart of this Bronze Age and delightful rural community and Roman habitation. ‘gateway’ to an amazing ‘hands on’ exploration of Low Furness. Much more awaits the It is not difficult to imagine how interested wanderer… remote Furness was from the rest of the mainland of Britain. One of the oldest and most hazardous routes was across the sands of Morecambe Bay, a route well LOW FURNESS WEEKENDER WALK

known to early travellers, used former times and the spiritual Map: arly ‘travellers’ entered by the Romans and by pilgrims journey continues to seek a OS Outdoor Leisure Series No 6 Low Furness ‘oversands’ (1:25 000) and other ‘religious’ moving modern expression. and emerged at between sacred sites and E Great Urswick has once again Conishead Bank (near to monasteries. The atmosphere Distances: become the focus for education, About 18 miles in all but an Conishead Priory now the remains tantalisingly mysterious for community and for the ‘escape route’ is provided Manjushri Buddist Centre) and and deeply peaceful on many development of a ‘new Celtic to reduce to 12 miles. Other travelled inland via Red Lane, sections of this walk- a walk to spirituality’ for today. variations are possible a former Roman road. Our be ‘experienced’……. using the OS Map. walk begins along this road. We hope and trust you will enjoy Throughout the 20th Century as the ‘total experience’ of our in most of the affluent west, the Time: Travelling from by beautiful area and will take time established churches had been in As long as you wish. car (or bus) turn right almost to explore and enjoy an inward steady decline whilst the growth immediately after the journey as well as a great walk! Conditions: of ‘individual spirituality and a Manjushri Centre towards A guided Heritage Walk which Please respect the area and the ; take the next right search for meaning’ has been takes us through some of the situations of those who live here, significant. Many of the churches most varied and historically (signed ‘Urswick, Lindal’). in Low Furness sustain small, stay a while, share it with us, significant countryside in the After about half a mile where faithful worshipping groups enjoy it for what it is and then North of . the golf course boundary wall today. It has experienced the pain take away a special memory with This challenging walk on the runs out on the left ), Oxley’s of ‘rural retreat’, a reduction in you- until next time! ‘fringes’ of the on the right, there is parking the number of farms, the loss of The ‘Weekender’ is part of the covers beach walking, for several cars. well-trodden tracks and paths, village schools, post offices, Hidden Light- Low Furness limestone outcrops, minor shops and the like. Project, supported by Hidden At the corner of the golf country roads and some of the course find a Public footpath ‘New century’ communities are Britain Centres and the Lake many ancient ‘green tracks’ of sign and take a gentle stroll of being established in the villages District Peninsulas Tourism Low Furness. A walk to be about half a mile through which are very different from Partnership, and is a Low Furness ‘experienced’. community project. glade and woodland path to Strong footwear and waterproof emerge on another road at clothing recommended! the foot of Birkrigg Common.

For more information about the Project and about this unique area please see our extensive website: www. explorelowfurness. co.uk 4 LOW FURNESS WEEKENDER WALK

Start Red Lane here are numerous paths follow this towards Baycliffe for a over and around Birkrigg, mile or so. Enjoy the views! an area steeped in early Golf T The track becomes a stony road history. Your map will indicate Course (Sunbrick Lane) and emerges into White Gill ancient settlements, a stone circle, Baycliffe village. Continue Lane a pilgrims’ cross and a Quaker through the village until you find grave yard, and much else worth Birlcrigg Common the Green (near the Farm Shop). Great finding; evidence of quarrying is Urswick Take a little path to the left (phone all around. Stone box) to emerge onto the Coast Circle Walk around the seaward side of Road by the Fishermen’s Arms.

Sunbrick Birkrigg at any height and in due course you need to emerge on the other side at the 17th Century You may wish to pause settlement of ‘Sunbrick’. This was here for refreshment! a significant Quaker settlement visited by George Fox. The When ready to move on, turn Baycliff Quaker burial ground is marked right along the main road, take a Scales on the map- about 100 yards lane (Leythey Lane) on the left North West of Sunbrick; the and follow this, keeping right at Tarn Castle memorial stone indicates that the junction, and emerging quite between 1654 and 1767, 227 by surprise on the stony beach. Beach ‘Friends’ were buried there, Turn right along the beach and including Margaret Fox, wife of enjoy a bracing walk along the Dendron Mill the Society’s founder, George Fox. shore of Morecambe Bay accompanied by the sight and sound of many seabirds until you Depending on where you meet see the outline of St.Cuthbert’s the road you need to find the Church at Aldingham. corner of the Farm House on the The Church is open each day for corner right at the bottom of you to enjoy a particular ‘peace Hevbiggin Sunbrick. A farm gate will lead and quiet’ on your journey. you into an old green track;

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You are very welcome to eat your Ahead of you is the little hamlet at the top of the field by a gate It is also decision time! sandwiches on the benches in the of Newbiggin; turn right here into and path to the right. Don’t take it. From here you could begin your graveyard overlooking the sea. Newbiggin itself, continue up the Continue ahead through the stile return journey via Scales There is also a public toilet with road and into a farm track at the beside the smaller gate in front of (see page 15) or continue with disabled facilities here! top right hand side; after a further you and then follow the hedge the ‘Weekender’ challenge. 100 metres or so look for a public and wall on your left; this finally footpath on your right into the joins a stony path and track which field, cross it, over a small bridge comes out on the road between TO CONTINUE… and then turn at 45 degrees Gleaston Castle Farm (to the right) Take the road through Gleaston across the next field to a gap in and Gleaston Mill (to the left). village, along Mill Lane. Turn the corner. right at the junction into the You can see Gleaston Park Farm This is a fascinating area to hardly appropriately named Main ahead of you on the hillside; a explore and of course the Mill Street. Continue along Main walk in a direct line will bring has a restaurant and bar Street for about 100 yards, you to a gate to exit the field; together with a shop and Mill looking out for the attractive turn left on this wonderful Exhibition for all ages. historic houses in the village and ‘switch-back’ road and go uphill the old well. At the t-junction towards Gleaston.

A short piece of road walking is ‘eased’ by superb views into the Aldingham rural heart of Low Furness. When suitably refreshed, continue your beach walk, around the Immediately in front of the headland, under the remains of 30-mile limit sign on the right is the mysterious motte and bailey an unmarked gate leading onto on the headland, pass by a small another ancient gated ‘green residential caravan park and track’. Take this. Once through the emerging onto the Coast Road at second gate, follow the right hand Sea Mill. This is part of the hedge around the field, emerging Cumbria Coastal Way.

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cross the road (take care The path you need is tucked Continue through the stile, cross mile until you come to a crossing) and take the lane up the away behind the trees (there is a the field to meet another stile in substantial stone wall on the right hill signed ‘Dendron and Dalton’. faint path between the bramble the bottom right hand corner of hand side. Take the signed Passing by ‘The Garth’ continue bushes which takes you over the the field (this can be quite muddy footpath into the field, towards uphill for a little longer until you brook, through a gap stile and at times). Once over the stile go Bolton Heads. reach a further t-junction. into the field). almost immediately left into the next field and cross it diagonally You are now entering the Turn left along the inside of the left to meet a clear gap in the ‘oldest’ section of the Trail and You might like to spend a hedge, through the gate- there is hedge; go through the gap evidence of Neolithic, Iron Age, little time exploring the hamlet a small stile here- and into the keeping the hedge on your right. Bronze age and Celtic of Dendron to the left and to next field, still keeping to the left This will bring you to a gate in a habitation and activity can be visit the unusual Church of edge of the field. St. Matthew built in 1642 at a stone wall (again, this stretch is spotted all around you, much of time of religious and political After about 100 yards a public fairly muddy in wet weather). it undisturbed and unexplored footpath marker will direct you to date. You can ‘feel’ the turmoil in the country. Once through the gate you can through a gap into an adjacent, age of the place as you walk Particularly beautiful cross the grassy area with narrower field; once in this field through it! in the Spring. interesting scattered boulder continue ahead with the hedge stones walking to the right If current archaeological Retrace your steps to pass by the on your right hand side. You can towards the brightly painted investigations are proven to be road back towards Gleaston, still hear the murmurings of the houses beyond to emerge by a even half right then Great instead walking towards Dalton brook to your left. bus shelter opposite a red Urswick and its Tarn lie at the and continue along the road to Go over the stile beside the gate telephone box. This is Stainton. centre of a hugely important the sound of a ‘babbling brook’ ahead of you and into the next Heritage site unique to Britain On arriving at the road through for about 250 yards; as you field, continuing ahead uphill and probably Europe. More of the village, turn right with the old approach a sharpish bend to the alongside the hedge on your right. this when we reach Urswick. left in the road, you will notice a Forge on your left, pass by At the next gate pause and get row of very old, very dead, Stainton Village Hall (formerly a your bearings. ivy-clad trees and a metal field Congregational Church). Take the footpath across the field gate. Do not go into the field Ahead of you is Stainton village, Immediately after the Hall turn to the gate in the right hand your next destination, with Little left along the narrow lane and corner and take the kissing gate Urswick Crags beyond. continue uphill for about half a into the next field.

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Continue across the field passing Descend using the clearly a large mound on your left defined farm track through a (nothing exciting-it’s a rubbish double farm gate onto the road dump!); forge ahead across the opposite Bolton Manor Farm. field and downhill, past another Incidentally, the remains of the wooded mound on your left, with ancient ‘Bolton Chapel’ can still Bolton Manor Farm ahead of you be seen at the farm. until you reach a double gate. Turn left along the road for a leisurely walk towards Little Urswick, noting the style and age of some of the buildings. At the junction turn left and keep going! To the left is the Green and the former Urswick Grammar School and Swan public house, now family dwellings. Urswick / Tarn

You are nearing the end of Our route continues from the Heritage and the ‘gems’ of Low this section of the walk and stunning Church of St.Mary and Furness from here (and details of within half a mile or so will be St.Michael which you will have other walks). passed by on the right as you able to rest, eat, drink and relax On leaving the Church, turn left entered the village. This is a truly to your heart’s content in around the back of the Church; Great Urswick. remarkable old Church, the Bolton Heads facing the Tarn look for a small mother church of Furness and a gate in the wall in front of the centre of a rich and wonderful Continue for now past the bungalow opposite. Go through, heritage. Take a look for yourself. There are good views of the crags Recreation Hall (1929), the Low turning right downhill, across the and of Birkrigg ahead of you. The Furness Church of England School You can also obtain further field to a small bridge. path here is often muddy so take and into Great Urswick itself. information about our Christian care as you walk.

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From the bridge look North left the ruins of an ancient Iron Age towards the houses nestling and early historic period hill fort, close to the Tarn; there is much partially excavated several years Castle to see. On a good day, ago. There is a Tumulus nearby. depending on the time of year The views ahead of you towards the you can see coots, heron, Lake District are absolutely stunning! cormorants, swans, Canada geese, gulls and other smaller Continue along the path with the birds which thrive in reed beds stone wall on your right, do not and damp places. The Tarn is go through the next gate but rich in feeding for them. continue to the end of the wall, turning into the next field and Alternative Return Route Above the houses at the continuing to follow the wall end of the village you can see down until you reach the road at GLEASTON- BARDSEA a hedge-lined track ascending the the bottom of the field. hillside beyond; this is part of the This little ‘corridor’ between the invasion of the Scots and 13th Cistercian Way and your next This is the old Roman route, Mill, Castle ruins and Scales and 14th century ‘landlords’. destination on leaving Urswick. Red Lane. represents an amazing ‘time line’ Coins and other pieces found in because recent discoveries in the local fields cover the post- As a matter of interest, From the bridge turn slightly left, immediate area have indicated Norman period and middle ages should you wish to continue for crossing the field to reach a evidence of life from Neolithic (Henry and Elizabethan coins not more than 100 metres to the stile/gate near the far corner of the times through to contemporary and much else). Roman coins left along Red Lane you will stone wall. Turn left along the farm and community living. have also been unearthed. see significant examples of Roman minor road and left again at the Bronze Age artefacts were found masonry on the opposite wall! T-junction. At the top of the hill locally, human bones in a cave just above the road. Of more Perhaps these thoughts past Low Barn take a steepish track Your homeward journey takes ‘recent’ visual interest is the will fuel your imagination and to your right and continue uphill. you to the right. evidence all around of the feudal ’sharpen’ your vision as you Towards the summit the track Turning neither to the left or farming strip system, the walk the necessary half mile continues between stone walls; the right and perhaps looking historical use of water power for or so of quiet road towards enter the field by the left-hand gate for more Roman evidence as milling corn, and so on. The Scales (a Viking name!). of two and continue ahead. you walk, return to your castle ruins bring to mind the To your right you can see the vehicle in about three-quarters slopes of Birkrigg Common, to the of a mile or so. Safe journey! 14 LOW FURNESS WEEKENDER WALK

As you descend the hill look to entrances will take you round the Keep to the left of the trees the ‘Hoad lighthouse’ monument in the right and to Mere Tarn; see if back of Scales village. You might towards a stone wall; walk on the distance directly ahead. As you you can spot the resident heron notice some old lime kilns of with the wall on your right side; descend Birkrigg notice the hedged and other water birds there. This unknown vintage on the right find another through-stile in the straight green track ahead of you. is now Private Fishing. wall ahead and continue to On coming to a clearing with Follow this looking out for follow the wall. As you join a At the point where the road farm gates in all directions evidence of Roman masonry in clear path from the left, turn right bends and passes over the little continue with the hedge on your the field wall on your left, until through a gate into the field and feeder stream you will notice a left, pass one gate and through you come to Mountbarrow Farm descend beside the wall until you green pathway. At the time of the next one facing you. The lane and back onto Red Lane. emerge onto the metalled road. writing this was badly overgrown ahead is a little overgrown in Cross the road towards the cattle Turn right to retrieve your car. and difficult to walk so it is places but well worth the effort. grid on the right and take the advised to ignore this path, Don’t turn off but continue bracken-lined green track continue for a few yards more to through several more gates until Unless you have towards Birkrigg immediately to the next footpath on the left, reaching another clearing and accommodation or other your left. through the stile and into the field crossing place. Look for the gap arrangements to return to, beyond. Cross the field to emerge stile in the wall facing you as you Keep ahead where another why not continue into in Scales Village. A left turn up emerge from the Lane. path crosses. Notice how the Bardsea village; food, the hill passing Aldingham Parish Go into the field, walking views unfold! drink, accommodation if Hall on the right will bring you to towards a group of trees ahead. you wish, and another On reaching the minor road, ‘Beech House’. Take the path into You will notice Birkrigg Common beautifully situated bear right for a short while until ‘Back Lane’. ahead and to the right. Victorian Church to admire the vista of Morecambe Bay with superb views over the appears ahead of you. Bay towards Chapel Island This is a truly beautiful old Take a left turn onto a clear path where the ‘ over sands’ hedged track best experienced which will take you to the white travellers would have in silence. Feel the age! trig point and seat (noticing enjoyed simple hospitality evidence of quarrying) on the top and a gentle welcome of Birkrigg. Continue ahead with from the monks. Ignore both gates and continue ahead along the path bearing slightly right. This path, with another gate or two across farm

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Morecambe Bay WELL, YOU CAN DREAM, CAN’T YOU!

Although every effort has been made by the Guide compilers to ensure that the information supplied is correct, we cannot accept liability for the consequences of any errors or omissions it may contain.

Copyright Hidden Light-Low Furness Association, 2004

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