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The New Guard

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The New Guard Who What Where When Why FILM RILEY KEOUGH Riley Keough may have inherited the almond-shaped, heavy- lidded eyes of her famous clan— she’s the daughter of Lisa Marie Presley and the granddaughter of Elvis—but the actress never felt the pull of the family business. “I played piano when I was younger,” Keough, 25, says. “But music didn’t fulfill me.” Yet after a stint as a model (she appeared in campaigns for Dior and Tommy Hilfiger), Keough did not hesitate to play a member of another musical family in the 2010 rock ’n’ roll biopic The Runaways, opposite Kristen Stewart and Dakota Fanning. That screen debut set her on a course for edgy, memorable parts, including a stripper in 2012’s Magic Mike » Donna Karan New York bra top; Zimmermann skirt; her own rings. Beauty note: For skin that’s utterly divine, try Estée Lauder Crescent White Full Cycle Brightening Spot Correcting Essence. For stores, prices, and more, see Backstory, page 166. Photograph by MARK SEGAL Styled by SALLY LYNDLEY The New Guard Meet all the newcomers who are making their mark on film, fashion, HAIR BY RAMSELL MARTINEZ FOR ORIBE AT STREETERS; MAKEUP BY GEORGI SANDEV FOR CHANEL AT STREETERS CHANEL AT SANDEV FOR GEORGI STREETERS; MAKEUP BY ORIBE AT FOR RAMSELL MARTINEZ HAIR BY music, art, and design. WHO THE NEW GUARD Continued from page 83 and, that same year, a lesbian DESIGN skate punk in Jack & Diane. STUDIOPEPE “When I started acting, it was Arianna Lelli Mami and Chiara Di like, ‘Whoa, what’s going on?’ ” Pinto approach design as if it were a Keough recalls. “But I loved blank canvas: All of the objects, being able to escape myself.” interiors, and sets they create under This year, she plays the lead the umbrella of Studiopepe, their in the Starz series The Girlfriend Milan firm, are influenced by the Experience, based on Steven art world. “We’re inspired by the Soderbergh’s 2009 film about a study of shapes and colors, and how high-end call girl. And in May, details of certain paintings can she stars as the aptly named become a starting point for a Capable in Mad Max: Fury Road, collection or interior,” says Lelli the anticipated reboot of the Mami (below, left, with Di Pinto). A sci-fiblockbusters. Like Keough’s recent window they designed for other roles, this one has a dark the Milanese furniture store Spotti, side. “Mad Max was the hardest for example, took its thing I’ve ever done. It was like cues from the artists a boot camp; we all went a bit Dan Flavin and John crazy shooting for six months McCracken; some of in the Namibian desert. I wish their editorial shoots I could be more of a regular have borrowed from girl-next-door.” matt diehl the geometries of Sol LeWitt and the FASHION surrealist tropes Chloe Gosselin of Giorgio de Chirico. Yet ultimately those As a child, the French footwear references are just a designer Chloe Gosselin, 30, way of feeding their spent hours sketching shoes, but appetite for visual she never thought she’d make a storytelling—good career out of it. Instead, painting An installation by design, Lelli Mami says, is “having became her passion; so she Studiopepe for a strong idea behind your work. enrolled at La Cambre, a visual the store Max & Co., in Milan. When you have that, you have arts school in Brussels. While everything.” monica khemsurov there, she took another detour when her fashion-focused ART classmates asked her to walk in their runway shows, leading to REGINA REX a decade-long modeling career. Trying to get the 13 artists and collaborators behind the New York gallery Regina Finally, last year, Gosselin (below, Rex together in one place—say, to sit for a group portrait—is tantamount to inset), who lives in Las Vegas with herding cats. One person disappears to fix her hair; others run off to the corner her fiancé, the illusionist David bodega; and the artists’ children, who are all unofficial members of the collective, Copperfield, decided to retrace are continuously wriggling free from their parents. “Oona has been to more her steps: After honing her meetings than some actual members,” cofounder Angelina Gualdoni says of her craft at Ars Sutoria in Milan, colleague Anna Schachte’s 4-year-old daughter. she launched a line of artfully But Regina Rex, which was started by 12 artists in Brooklyn in 2010, has found constructed shoes. Her spring success amid the chaos. “We’re maintaining the spirit of equal voices but also collection, inspired by the deep starting to create actual positions,” Gualdoni says. Since moving to Manhattan last sea, features a range of strappy year, the gallery has exhibited the work of young stars like Elizabeth Jaeger, while sandals crafted from brightly maintaining an intergenerational emphasis, as in a recent show that put sculptures colored mesh, suede, and by Dit-Cilinn, 31, next to canvases by the late Shirley Gorelick. And unlike other snakeskin (below). “I love to play BEAUTY artist-run spaces, Regina Rex has a policy of not showing the work of its members. with textures and colors,” she Their kids, on the other hand, have the run of the place. As Max Warsh, another says. “I mix them together like I SANDRA cofounder, says, “Where else are we going to put them?” allyson shiffmann » would in a painting.” LANSHIN CHIU karin nelson At her three-year-old Williamsburg, Brooklyn, studio, Treatment by Lanshin, Sandra Lanshin Chiu (above) uses Chinese medicine including acupuncture, herbs, and alternative healing methods to get the body back in gear. But it’s her knack for beautifying the skin—something she accomplishes with the on-staff aesthetician Britta Plug—that’s winning the 40-year-old former banker a loyal following. The two women use Chinese cupping therapy on the face, which helps to cleanse pores and reduce puffiness. Brave clients can take the procedure to the next level by adding tiny needles: Sucking out small amounts of blood from the face, Chiu says, “releases heat Angelina Gualdoni (top, and toxins to prevent breakouts middle) and Max Warsh (center, seated), with fellow and boost circulation.” Just trust us artists at Regina Rex. on this one. katie becker SHOE: COURTESY JENNIFER MASSAUX; OF STUDIOPEPE; GOSSELIN: COURTESY STUDIOPEPE DESIGN: SOMMARIVA; VALENTINA STUDIOPEPE PORTRAIT: MUNSON MATT PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: SLACK, RYAN REX: PHOTOGRAPH BY REGINA BETSY BLUNDELL; OF THE DESIGNER; LANSHIN CHIU: 86 WMAG.COM WHO THE NEW GUARD Clockwise, from far left: Stout, and her Red Billiards Lamp; Craig, and his PVC: Pressed table; Schanck, and his Alufoil chair. DESIGN JOHNSON TRADING GALLERY KIDS At Johnson Trading Gallery, Paul Johnson’s whimsical design space in Queens, even the more established names on the roster are pretty out-there. But it’s a trio of wunderkinds, Jack Craig, Chris Schanck, and Katie Stout, who are truly stretching the parameters of form—not to mention functionality. “Becoming a designer saved my life,” says Schanck, 39, whose Alufoil furniture series, made from steel, foam, rubber, and resin, was a highlight of Design Miami/Basel. While the connection between Schanck’s goopy, FASHION Nyquil-colored chairs and Craig’s amorphous side tables (picture a geode on a shiny molded plastic base) is not Kei Ninomiya immediately apparent, the designers’ shared sense of humor and penchant for experimentation are. (They are friends and former roommates.) Craig, 35, recently Like Junya Watanabe before him, began casting bronze onto wet concrete to create free-form tables inspired by 31-year-old Kei Ninomiya (above, ancient Anatolian construction techniques. “The collapse of those buildings reveals inset) began his career working that internal stone channels were carved out and replaced by poured metal,” he for Comme des Garçons, where explains. “Here, the use of metal is inverted.” Stout, a 26-year-old Rhode Island Rei Kawakubo, the enigmatic School of Design graduate, is the youngest of the three, but her outlandish force behind the Japanese empire, ceramic lamps and paper-pulp tables have already won her high-profile admirers encouraged him to start his own like the artist Bjarne Melgaard. Her stuffed-furniture series—hand-sewn chairs line. Launched with little to-do in wild prints and textures—is similarly guided by tactile ingenuity and visual more than two years ago, Noir Kei play. When musing about concepts for an upcoming show, Stout allows, “it sounds Ninomiya remains a quiet entity ridiculous when I say them out loud.” We beg to differ. kat herriman under the Comme des Garçons umbrella, turning out a handful of conceptual pieces each season. FLORAL DESIGN Most are intricately wrought in Ninomiya’s favorite hue. “Black is Putnam & a strong color,” explains the designer, who briefly studied at Putnam the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Michael Putnam, 28, had been working in production for Lenny Antwerp before being tapped Kravitz’s design firm when he decided to delve into his lifelong by Kawakubo. “I use it to create obsession with flowers. And the moment he posted an Instagram strong forms of expression.” shot of his first arrangement—a lush, loose, romantic composition His spring collection, which is that resembled a Dutch still life—he had customers calling for available at Dover Street Market, SEUNG LEE DANIEL & PUTNAM: INSTITUTE; PUTNAM OF SUNDANCE : COURTESY orders. In the year and a half since, he and his husband, Darroch includes a smock dress made DOPE Putnam (below, left, with Michael), 27, a photographer who handles from hundreds of delicately the business side of the Brooklyn-based company, have been working layered faux-leather flowers, and with wild abandon, designing untamed floral installations for a biker jacket embroidered with clients like Chanel, Cartier, and Christian Dior.
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