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Copyrighted Material 02_772666 ftoc.qxp 2/16/06 10:01 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in Prague & the Czech Republic 1 1 The Best of Prague 4 1 The Most Unforgettable Travel 5 The Best Museums . .8 Experiences in Prague & 6 The Best Things to Do for Free the Czech Republic . .5 (or Almost) . .8 2 The Best Splurge Hotels . .7 7 The Best Activities for Families . .9 3 The Best Moderately Priced 8 The Best Neighborhoods Hotels . .7 for Getting Lost . .9 4 The Most Unforgettable Dining 9 The Most Romantic Moment . .9 Experiences . .8 10 The Best Offbeat Experiences . .10 2 Planning Your Trip to Prague & the Czech Republic 11 1 Visitor Information . .11 5 Travel Insurance . .21 2 Entry Requirements & Customs . .11 6 Health & Safety . .22 3 Money . .14 7 Specialized Travel Resources . .23 The Czech Koruna . .15 8 Planning Your Trip Online . .27 What Things Cost in Prague . .16 Frommers.com: The Complete 4 When to Go . .18 Travel Resource . .28 Czech Republic Calendar 9 Getting There . .28 of Events . .18 10 Packages for the Independent Traveler . .34 3 Getting to Know Prague 35 1 Orientation . .35 2 Getting Around . .42 COPYRIGHTEDNeighborhoods in Brief . .41 MATERIALFast Facts: Prague . .46 What’s All the U-ing About? . .42 4 Suggested Itineraries 53 1 The Best of Prague in 1 Day . .53 4 The Best of the Czech Republic 2 The Best of Prague in 2 Days . .56 in 1 Week . .58 3 The Best of Prague in 3 Days . .57 02_772666 ftoc.qxp 2/16/06 10:01 PM Page iv iv CONTENTS 5 Where to Stay in Prague 61 Websites with Online Staying in a Hostel . .71 Reservations . .62 Family-Friendly Accommodations . .72 1 Hradcany . .63 4 Nové Mêsto (New Town) . .73 Money-Saving Tips . .66 5 Vinohrady . .76 2 Malá Strana (Lesser Town) . .67 6 Elsewhere in Prague . .77 Which Quarter? . .68 7 Near the Airport . .78 3 Staré Mêsto (Old Town) & Josefov . .69 6 Where to Dine in Prague 79 1 Restaurants by Cuisine . .82 Inexpensive Meals on the Run . .94 2 Hradcany . .84 5 Nové Mêsto (New Town) . .96 A Few Dining Warnings . .84 6 Vinohrady . .97 3 Malá Strana (Lesser Town) . .85 Sports, Spuds & Suds . .98 Money-Saving Tips . .85 7 Elsewhere in Prague . .100 Family-Friendly Restaurants . .88 8 Cafe Society . .100 4 Staré Mêsto (Old Town) . .90 9 The Pick of the Pubs . .103 7 Exploring Prague 104 Saving Money on Entrance Fees . .104 4 Churches & Cemeteries . .122 1 Prague Castle (Prazsk; Hrad) & The Art of Prague’s Architecture . .124 Charles Bridge (Karl*v most) . .104 5 Historic Buildings & Monuments . .124 Beware of Open Windows: 6 Historic Squares . .127 The Czech Tradition of 7 Václav Havel’s Prague . .128 Defenestration . .110 2 Other Top Sights . .111 8 Parks & Gardens . .134 The Art of Getting Lost . .115 9 Prague with Kids . .135 Prague’s Most Powerful Daughter: 10 Sightseeing Options . .139 The Rise & Surprise of Madeleine An Old-Fashioned Tram Ride . .140 Albright . .116 11 Staying Active . .141 3 Museums & Galleries . .118 The Prague International Did You Know? . .119 Marathon . .143 8 Strolling Around Prague 145 Walking Tour 1: Charles Bridge & Walking Tour 2: Prague Castle Malá Strana (Lesser Town) . .145 (Prazsk; Hrad) . .151 02_772666 ftoc.qxp 2/16/06 10:01 PM Page v CONTENTS v Light It Up: The Rolling Stones Walking Tour 4: Josefov Give Satisfaction . .154 (Jewish Quarter) . .160 Walking Tour 3: Staré Mêsto (Old Town) . .156 9 Prague Shopping 165 1 The Shopping Scene . .165 Special Shopping Notes . .169 How to Claim Your VAT Refund . .168 Prague’s Best Buys . .170 2 Shopping A to Z . .168 10 Prague After Dark 177 1 The Performing Arts . .178 4 The Bar Scene . .189 2 The Club & Music Scene . .184 Není Pivo Jako Pivo: There’s Prague’s Mysterious Nights . .185 No Beer Like Beer . .190 3 Pubs . .188 5 Casinos & Movie Theaters . .193 11 Day Trips from Prague 194 1 Tips for Day Tripping . .194 6 Cesk; Sternberk . .207 2 Karlstejn Castle . .197 7 Mêlník . .207 A Romantic Getaway . .199 8 Terezín (Theresienstadt) . .208 3 Krivoklát . .200 9 Lidice . .211 4 Kutná Hora . .201 10 Orlík . .212 The Bone Church in Sedlec . .204 Jumping into the Fourth 5 Konopistê . .205 Dimension . .213 12 The Best of Bohemia 214 1 Exploring Bohemia . .214 6 Ceské Budêjovice . .238 2 Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad) . .216 Keeping Up with the Spa Cures & Treatments . .220 Schwarzenbergs: Visiting a 141-Room English Castle . .241 3 Mariánské Láznê (Marienbad) . .226 7 Cesk; Krumlov . .242 The Spa Treatment . .227 A Crowd Alert . .246 Family Fun . .230 A Renaissance Pub Endures . .248 4 Plzen (Pilsen) . .231 8 Trebon . .250 Plzen’s Claim to Fame . .233 A Farm Stay . .252 5 Cheb (Eger) & Frantiskovy Láznê . .235 9 Tábor . .253 02_772666 ftoc.qxp 2/16/06 10:01 PM Page vi vi CONTENTS 13 The Best of Moravia 257 1 Brno: The Region’s Capital . .257 3 Znojmo . .270 What Time Is It? . .262 The Painted Cellar of the 2 Telc . .267 Satov Vineyard . .272 Appendix A: Prague in Depth 274 1 History 101 . .274 3 The Spoils of Revolution: Dateline . .275 Capitalism & Culture . .285 From Prisoner to President: 4 Famous Czechs . .288 Václav Havel . .282 5 Prague’s Architectural Mix . .290 2 The City Today . .284 6 Recommended Films & Books . .291 Appendix B: Useful Terms & Phrases 294 1 Basic Phrases & Vocabulary . .294 2 Menu Terms . .297 Index 300 List of Maps The Czech and Slovak Republics 6 Walking Tour 1: Malá Strana (Lesser Eastern European Rail Routes 29 Town) 148 Prague at a Glance 36 Walking Tour 2: Prague Castle 152 Prague Metro 43 Walking Tour 3: Staré Mêsto (Old Town) 157 Suggested Itineraries: The Best of Prague 54 Walking Tour 4: Josefov (Jewish Quarter) 162 Suggested Itineraries: The Best of the Czech Republic 59 Prague Shopping 166 Where to Stay in Prague 64 Prague After Dark 180 Where to Dine in Prague 86 Prague and Environs 195 Where to Dine in Old Town 91 Kutná Hora 203 Prague Attractions 106 Bohemia 215 St. Vitus Cathedral 108 Karlovy Vary 217 Václav Havel’s Prague 130 Cesk; Krumlov 243 Prague with Kids 136 Moravia 259 Walking Tour 1: Charles Bridge 147 Brno 261.
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