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Year's Best Barolo & Barbaresco

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Year's Best Barolo & Barbaresco YEAR'S BEST BAROLO & BARBARESCO Our blind panels tasted 189 new-release Barolo and Barbaresco wines over the past 12 months. Stephanie Johnson, our critic for ltaly, rated 66 as exceptional (90+) and 22 as Best Buys. Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com. BAROLO least five years in the cellar before revisiting. and fresh while taking on a more charming North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA warmth..B acchanal lmp orts, NY 9z Elvio Cogno $ 135 I gs 20L3 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice The 95 | Fratelli Alessandria $80 I Elvio Cogno s 140 2013 growing season in Novello was one of 2013 Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno 2012 Barolo Riserva Ravera Vigna Elena the longest on record, starting out with a Alessandria's 2013 San Lorenzo offers more Vigna Elena was the first vineyard Valter chilly spring followed by a mostly dry and immediate appeal than its firmer Monvi- Fissore and Elvio Cogno planted, in 7991,, sunny summer and then cool nights during gliero and Gramolere Barolos, also recom- named after Fissore's daughter who was born harvest. The conditions were nearly ideal mended here. Aromas of vioiets, anise and the same year. They chose to plant the sandy for the long, slow ripening of the nebbiolo white pepper accent the wine's fleshy plum soiis of this Z.S-acre plot with nebbiolo ros6, in Bricco Pernice, a five-acre plot on a lime- flavors, and the wine takes on notes oforange which gives lighter-colored, floral-scented stone-rich hilltop in the Ravera cru. Three- peel and Darjeeling tea with exposure to air. red reminiscent of pinot noir, one of Fis- quarters of the vines are 50 years old, and Vibrant acidity draws the flavors together sore's favorite varieties. The long, slow 2012 after a green harvest during which vintner and propels the wine to a fresh, energetic growing season created awine with complex Valter Fissore drops as much as half the clus- finish. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA aromas of rose, orange peel and raspberry. ters, each vine produces just over two pounds '$7ith notes of Rainier cherry that reverber- gS of fruit. The result is a wine that's concen- I Luigi Baudana s8b ate on the long, mineral finish, this wine trated yet balanced and elegant: The red 2014 Barolo Baudana The Vajra familypur- is more about grace than power, with fine, cherry flavors are fresh and vibrant, coiled chased the 6.4-acre Baudana estate in Ser- challry tannins that will allow it to age for at around dense, taut tannins and laced with ralunga in 2008, and Giuseppe Vajra now least a decade. tX/ilsonDaniels, St. Helena, CA notes of white pepper and cool mineral makes the wines. This one, off 50-year-old tones. This is an exciting wine to try now for vines in the Baudana cru, macerated for 40 95 lG.D. Yajra sso its sheer power and energy, and one to revisit days, then aged in large Slavonian casks for 2014 Barolo Bricco delle Viole The Vajra over the next two decades as it continues to 32 months. It's surprisingly open, with silky family's plots in this cru-one of the high- evolve.Wikon Daniels, St. Helena, CA tannins and piayfui acidity lifting the wine's est in the Barolo commune-are usually the dark flavors ofplum and black cherry. Notes last they harvest, and were especially so in g6lFratelliAlessandria s110 of sage, rosemary and menthol enhance the the cool 2014 vintage. The wait was worth it, 2013 Barolo Monvigliero Vittore Alessan- impression of freshness and cut, while dark resulting in a ripe, vibrant Barolo, its berry dria's 2013 Monvigliero brings all of this Ver- chocolate and licorice tones emerge with flavors infused with brilliant, mouthwatering duno cru's characteristic spice and elegance exposure to air. Vajra USA, Manhasset, NY acidity. Velvety tannins frame the fruit, ieav- to a heightened degree. The wine opens ing room for notes of licorice and mint to with pretty floral and fresh cherry scents, 95lComm. G.B. Burlotto s85 emerge. Vajra U SA, M anhasset, NY then bursts with juicy cherry and plum fla- 2014 Barolo Cannubi Burlotto's 2014 Can- vors laced with notes of menthol, bay leaf nubi is impressively ripe for this wet, chal- 95 lVietti s 175 and white pepper. The tannins are cool and lenging vintage. The cherry flavors are cool 2014 Barolo Lazzarito This is impressively polished, the flavors exuberant, lingering in and high-toned, brightened by notes offresh ripe for a wine from this cool, wet vintage, a red glow of berries and herbs. Tempting herbs and orange peel. Darker brushy tones the flavors ofdark plum and cherry lifted by as it is to indulge now, this tightly knit wine suggest this will gain more layers with time, scents oflavender, rosemary and orange peel. will reward a few years of patience with even as the taut tannins begin to relax. The wine's Lazzarito's clayJimestone soils imparted deeper layers of complexity and delicious- clarity and precision are immensely appeal- cool, ferrous tannins that need time to rela.r ness. North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA ing. Bacchanal Imports, lW to reveal more of the wine's warm, earthy lay- ers, so tuck it away in the cellar for a few more 951 Fratelli Alessandria seo 95 lComm. G.B. Burlotto s8o y ears. D alla Tbrra, N ap a, CA 2013 Barolo Gramolere The Alessandria 2014 Barolo Monvigliero The aromas of g4 family's five-acre plot in Monlorte d'Alba's Fabio Alessandria's Barolo Monvigliero are | Ca'Rome'di Romano Gramolere cru yielded a refined and seam- as distinctive as ever in the 2014 vintage: He Marengo s11o less Barolo in 2013. Its flavors offresh cherry ferments the wine with whole clusters, ampli- 2014 Barolo Ceretta Muted at first, this and strawberry are plush and ripe, and notes fi,ing the wine's scents of fresh bay leaf, mint wine opens up after a few minutes in the of licorice and fresh tarragon emerge with and rose petals. Bound by taut tannins, the glass, with floral scents of fresh red cherries exposure to air. The flavors stay pure and cherry and berry flavors are shy at first, need- and dried peaches. Bright acidity draws out precise through the long finish, eventually ing a couple days to flesh out, but the spine- the flavors as notes ofsage and fresh tobacco giving way to ferrous tannins that call for at tingling acidiry keeps the wine feeling precise appear, and firm, mineral tannins allow the WINE & SPIRITS DECEMBER 2018 75 I I wine to gain savor over the course of sev- 94 | Paolo Scavino sloo 93 J Conterno Fantino s11o eral days open. Appealing now for its sheer 2014 Barolo Bric d€l Fiasc Scavino's vines 2014 Barolo Mosconi Vigna Ped Mosconi vibrancy, this wine promises many years of sit on the highest part of Castiglione Fall- is the darkest in tone of Conterno Fantino's pleasure. Empson uSA, Alexandria, VA etto's Fiasco cru, well positioned to soak up 2014 Barolos, its flavors of black raspberry the meager rays of sunshine during 2014's and plum deepened by notes oflicorice and 94lConternoFantino s12o rainy summer. They produced a seductively unsweetened cocoa. Hints ofgraphite add a 2014 Barolo GinestraVigna Sori Ginestra aromatic Barolo, its scents oflavender, violet cool mineral tone, and a whiffof mint bright- Fruit for Sori Ginestra comes from some of and sage mingling with flavors of ripe cherry ens the finish. Empson USA, Alexandria, VA Conterno Fantino's oldest vines, some up to and dark spice. A few years in the cellar will 40 years of age, and those vines performed round out the chewy tannins, but this is hard 93 lConterno Fantino s1lo beautifully in the cool, wet 2014 vintage. to resist now. SkurnikWines,NY 2014 Barolo Ginestra Vigna del Gris This The wine leads off with scents of green car- wine's flavors of red cherry and strawberry damom, mint and anise that follow through 94lVietti s175 are impressively ripe for the vintage, vibrant into cool herbal flavors. Notes ofdark berries 2014 Barolo Ravera Powerful and austere, with cool acidity that makes those fruit fla- and sweet plums unfold as the wine opens, this wine's taut tannins and lively acidity give vors pop. Notes ofcayenne pepper and Mexi- the fruit held taut by zippy acidity and vigor- it a coiled aspect. Notes of sage and anise can chocolate add to the wine's iively person- ous tannins that need time to s often. Empson emerge after several hours in the glass, add- ality. Empson USA, Alexandria,VA USA, Alexandria,VA ing compiexity to flavors of dark plum and cherry. This will make a great partner for 94 | Conterno Fantino s12o roast lamb, if you can wait at least five years .. 2013 Barolo Castelleto Vigna Pressenda before opening it. DallaTerra,Napa, CA g* Vigna Pressenda is a liveiy, buoyant Barolo with bright fruit tones and soaring aromat- 93 | Fratelli Alessandria s6o ics. Scents of rosemary and juniper leap out 2013 Barolo (Best Buy) Alessandria's clas- at once, followed by notes ofdark spice and sic Barolo unfolds with scents of ginger, florals. Flavors offleshy plum and ripe ber- soft herbs and orange zest that give lift and ries mingle with sweet tomato notes, chalky brightness to its succulent cherry flavors. The ', . {t;,arps -.*16" tannins heightening the wine's bright per- wine combines fruit from the family's vine- | sonality. Empson uSA, Alexandria, VA yards in Verduno and Monforte dAlba, weav- .,'.;".{,;tiln" , ing together the high-toned, herb-inflected 94lsandrone s170 character of the former with an underlying 93 | Massolino se7 2014 Barolo Aleste Aleste, formerly labeled power and drive from the latter.
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