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I Saturday May 28, 2016

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[email protected] @navhindtimes facebook.com/navhindtimes ± navhindtimes.in/app The saga of disappearing

Exploring through local Goan has been a delectable journey for many „„Danuska Da Gama I NT BUZZ Writer, Maria Lourdes de Bravo Da Costa tourists. But, in the last few Rodrigues tells us how once when she vis- oa has attracted people for its ited a famous beach side restaurant in South years the coastal belt has seen beaches and authentic sumptuous Goa, the Goan she asked for had no a number of Goan-cuisine local cuisine over the years. But off base but was a tomato base. Upon late, things have changed drastical- enquiring she was told that are restaurants being replaced ly – certain beaches now intimidate expensive and hence the alternate use of with eateries offering fast Ghigh end tourists and local Goan cuisine has tomatoes. , Indian food and pseudo- slowly been disappearing from menus. Even “If we can be taken for a ride, you if there is a mention of a Goan section, there can imagine what happens with tourists. continental and indo-Chinese are high chances, that the food is not ‘au- Probably it is because of being cheated and food. While Goa Tourism has thentic’ Goan but a standardised, Indianised word of mouth that they prefer to eat food or a westernised version of the dish. that they are familiar with,” she says. been channelising efforts A ride from to Baga will offer to create a ‘brand Goa’ and you more choices in Indian, pseudo conti- Price, quality and quantity nental and oriental food rather than Goan. Entrepreneur and food enthusiast Ashton increase tourist footfalls, NT Moreover, the few restaurants which were Dias believes that Goan food is not consid- BUZZ examines why local once famous for chicken xacuti, recheado ered cool and convenient anymore. “Today, Goan cuisine is slowly going fish fry, sorpotel, today prefer to serve ‘what kids prefer burgers, burritos, pizza, etc. We people want’. need to have an entity which can glamour- off the table ise Goan food and scientifically document WHY GOAN CULINARY TOURISM processes which enable long term storage of our identity which should be made known to HAS FAILED food that can be served in minutes.” tourists visiting the state.” A tourist from Saurabh Sharma tells THE OTHER SIDE us about being cheated at a shack. “I asked for Non-Goans Goan food a plate of kingfish rawa fish fry and On the other side is Goa – which has so President of Travel and Tourism Associa- chilly fry. To my dismay the were the much to offer in terms of food. Without tion of Goa, Francisco de Braganca has time tinniest size. It cost Rs 550 and wasn’t even travelling to destinations like France, Italy and again asserted that local Goan food sufficient for two. The chilly fry had an over- or South Each , you can have an array needs to be promoted and should be a part dose of and capsicums. The single fish to suit your palate. From steaks, sizzlers of the tourism master-plan, adding that slice in the plate was as thin as paper and was and to salads, sushi and Greek food, the Government alone cannot shoulder the coated heavily with rawa on either sides that you can find it all in Goa. These restaurants blame. He says: “The trade itself has also to cost us Rs 500. Even in Delhi I have eaten big- are in a league of their own and are happy share the blame. We Goans, especially the ger prawns at a lesser rate,” he says. with the business they get, but prove to be a shack owners, bring full teams of non-Goan Ashton says, “Goan food consists of threat to restaurants offering Goan food. chefs and waiters from far off places when wholesome and fish which shoots the Food enthusiast and publisher, Sapna the off-season sets in there and our season cost of a dish. This makes Goan food costlier Sardessai believes that tourists have to be starts here. One cannot expect non-Goans to compared to Chinese food. Hence, only if we given what they want. “We cannot force feed Pic by JoneGoaUK cook Goan food.” manage to do to the fish industry what we them Goan food if they don’t like it. I have On the other hand he says Goan chefs did to the chicken industry, rates will always interacted with lot of North Indians who find employment beyond the Goan shores, fluctuate and remain on the higher side.” find Goan food distasteful. So we just have further adding to the decline of authentic A fish vendor tells NT BUZZ, that there are to keep Goan cuisine as an option but not as restaurants. “Goan cuisine has disappeared several malpractices followed in the name the only thing on the menu. There are other from our plates and our memories too. Many of tourism. He says, restaurant owners and ways to promote the ethos of Goa. Let us of the younger generation of Goans don’t hoteliers who come to buy fish from him ask adopt those,” she says. have any idea of some of the traditional him to slice the fish thin (less than ¼ inch Agreeing with Sapna is Jonathan Sequeira, Goan dishes. They are now extinct and part sometimes). Some restaurants even serve training manager in the hospitality sector. of history”, says Braganca. fish like mahi instead of kingfish and sea He says the multi cuisine style of restaurants Restaurant owner Leo D’Souza says in ab- perch (chonak), a difference that can be only is successful in Goa more than just Goan spe- sence of grading and regulations, customers made out by people who really know about cialty restaurants. “As we do have tourists are taken for a ride in the name of various fish. coming in from different parts of the world, . “One can find an abundance of In- this works like a charm. It’s always nice to dian , kormas and masalas which dif- Tourism department not doing go someplace and find that it has cuisine fer in taste and colour at every restaurant. enough from your hometown or something new. The Chinese is not authentic and there is a MLA, Michael Lobo says that the You do find Goan dishes on several menus, broad based continental menu. How can one Tourism department of Goa has done noth- although far from authentic,” he says. He expect authentic food anywhere?” ing to promote Goan food. “If they can’t keep thinks people from everywhere love Goan Entrepreneur, Frazier Martins says: “A the coast clean, what food will they pro- food, but because the cuisine is mainly non- lot of tourists who come to Goa and stay mote?” he asks. At the property of Goa Tour- vegetarian, they prefer staying away from it. alongside the coast want to step out and ism in Calangute, there are several vendors Sheena Barnes, resident of Calangute has savour Goan cuisine when they visit an eat- selling bhel puri alongside Chinese seen change over the years with more peo- ery. Unfortunately, they end up having food stalls, which are minting money. He says, ple opting for non- Goan cuisine. She says that they get back home or have to travel a Goa Tourism should use staff that has exper- many today don’t like experimenting or try- distance to locate a restaurant that serves tise to promote Goan food: “knowledgeable ing new cuisines. Besides, allergies, diets and authentic Goan .” officers are not made used of. Goan food is other issues are factors too. , Marlon Lobo of the Goan Foodies Tourist’s sceptical of Goan food thinks that people with good culinary expo- “While there are successful restaurants in Measures to promote Goan sure and sensibility have an extra ordinary Goa serving good Goan food that is clearly food as suggested choice here in Goa. “Only in our little state cherished and appreciated by the tourist, the l Have a system of recognising authentic do the Italians serve , the other restaurants fail to follow the lead,” says Goan restaurants and give them a graded French serve the best croissants, the Ger- Braganca. This he says is heightened by the certification and exemption from certain mans make the best sour , and fact that tourists lack awareness of local Goan taxes. the Israelis serve the best Jerusalem mix.” food. Many destinations worldwide take great l Goans need to patronise and promote He is aware that there has been an pride in showcasing their local , thus these restaurants. influx of certain kind of tourist whose pal- increasing the tourists’ knowledge about the l With support from the government, The lets are used to Indo-Chinese and North local preparations, ingredients, etc. Goan Hotel and Restaurants Association . This is the reason why so Since the number of high-spending tour- needs to guide members and encourage many multi-cuisines have sprouted on the ists visiting the state has dropped, res- them to showcase local food. At all trade Calangute-Baga belt. He says, “But if one taurants along the coastline cater to large fairs and cultural shows Goan food should is looking for delicacies made by extra- numbers of low spending domestic tourists. be promoted. ordinary chefs, Goa has abundance. In fact l Goan food needs to be taken to another “It is easier to prepare and serve non-Goan these fine chefs and restaurateurs have level by adding delight value to a dish. food. Of there are very few genu- made Goa their home and shop. The top E.g. serving with almond cream ine high end specialty restaurants serving 50 restaurants handpicked by The Goan or roasted nuts thus increasing Foodie is a classic example of what Goa authentic western, Indian and Chinese food,” the plating quotient as well. says Braganca. has to offer on a plate,” he says. Pic source: rupalideantraveller.blogspot.in/ Pic by JoneGoaUK