Discovering 2014 no.12

Special Feature Another Side of Japan: and Sweets Spring Summer Autumn Winter

niponica is published in Japanese and six other languages (Arabic, Chinese, English, French, Russian and Spanish), to introduce the world to the people and today. The title niponica is derived from “Nip- Special Feature pon,” the Japanese word for Japan. no. 12 Special Feature Another Side of Japan: contents Another Side of Japan: Snacks and Sweets Snacks and Sweets 04 Sweet Tooth Japan 20 Convenience Stores: Traditional Japanese confections () have subtle flavors, and are often associated with A Paradise of Snacks and Sweets the current season. As the shelves in many shops demonstrate, sweets in Japan come in a 10 Japanese Confections: multitude of tastes and shapes. They play an important role in the culture of giving, and their Tasty, Fun and Cute! 23 Make Some, Eat Some: packaging can be surprisingly beautiful—so many types, so good to eat, so nice to look at Savor the Experience of and intriguing as well. This issue welcomes you to a land of wonderful snacks and sweets. 14 Confectionaries and Japanese Sweets and Snacks

the Culture of Giving Top photos: petals in layers, fresh green maple 24 Strolling Japan leaves, insects in a grove chirping at the harvest moon, snow 16 The Beauty and Tradition Asakusa and Mukojima: resting on a holly leaf—wagashi sweets are designed to cel- No. 12 ebrate the season. (All by Akasaka Shiono) March 14, 2014 of Japan’s Delicious Snacks and Rambles in Cover photo: Tai-yaki made from a wheat flour and egg Wrapped Confections Yesteryear dough. The dough is stuffed with an bean paste, then pressed Published by: Ministry of into a fish-shaped mold to be baked. (Kotai-yaki, by Tourindou Foreign Affairs of Japan Co. Ltd.) Kasumigaseki 2-2-1, Chiyoda-ku, 18 From Tradition to 28 Souvenirs of Japan Tokyo 100-8919, Japan Photos by Takeuchi Akio http://www.mofa.go.jp/ a Sweet New World

2 niponica 3 Dialogue Sweet Tooth Japan Kurokawa Mitsuhiro and Aoki Sadaharu Admiring the changing seasons, cherishing the beauty of form, appreciating the taste of individual ingredients—these practices have all contributed to Japan’s fabulous culture of sweets. Both traditional and modern sweets are explored here by Kurokawa Mitsuhiro, the owner of a Japanese established more than 480 years ago, and Aoki Sadaharu, a Japanese chef pâtissier well known in Paris for his creations. Photos by Natori Kazuhisa Collaboration: TORAYA Confectionery Co., Ltd. and a-sweets house inc.

Japanese and Western are chestnuts candied in syrup, made Japanese ingredients open found in confections in other coun- confections: How are with a technique somewhat similar to up new possibilities tries, along with ginger and , making an from adzuki beans. and most likely miso5 will be included they different? Kurokawa: About 10 years ago we too, before long. Some day, French Kurokawa: In Japan we categorize Kurokawa: Wagashi specialize in the launched shops offering fusion con- chefs might see an as a perfectly or- sweet into two types: Japanese art of attracting the five senses. The fections—wagashi containing some dinary ingredient for their confections. and Western. Uniquely Japanese in- first of course is taste. The second is Western elements. For example, a A while back, world-class pastry gredients such as adzuki beans and visual—they have an attractive, blend of an and chocolate in a chef Pierre Hermé wanted to tour our dough are used for wagashi tempting appearance. The third is fra- we call Adzuki and Cacao Fondant. factory to see how an is made. Our (traditional Japanese confections), grance, which is more subtle than that Another example: an paste adapted by workers were surprised and honored while ingredients that came originally of Western sweets, but good in bring- our chefs to use like regular jam. I’m by his visit and gave him a big wel- from the West are used for Western ing out the flavor of the tea convinced we’ll see more crossovers, come. I’m hoping cross-pollination confections. Japan began secluding enjoyed during the tea ceremony. (So as wagashi and Western confections like this will expand the world of itself from the rest of the world in wagashi should not have a strong start using each other’s ingredients. sweet food. th Kurokawa Mitsuhiro the 17 century, but when it opened aroma.) The fourth is the sense of Aoki Sadaharu Seventeenth in the line of owners of TORAYA up again in the later 19th century, touch given by their texture. They Aoki: One of my clients in Paris told Aoki: Every year in my shops in Paris Chef pâtissier at pâtisserie Sadaharu AOKI Confectionery, which goes back more than paris. He was presented with France’s Best 480 years. He carries on the same traditions Western cultural elements poured must be firm enough to cut with a me he wanted confections with a I use a total of about 500 kilograms Pâtissier Award and the French Mayors’ while also making new creations at TORAYA in. That’s the background behind toothpick, soft enough to break into green tea taste, so I made éclairs fla- of adzuki beans. That’s a big jump Award for his Western confections that CAFÉ and other shops. Chairman of the include traditional Japanese ingredients. Japan Wagashi Association. this categorization. pieces, and somewhat chewy when vored with green tea powder. That’s from the 25 kilograms I was using Based in Paris, he has 11 shops including you bite into them. the trigger that started me on using before. ones in Tokyo and . Aoki: Yes, for example, wagashi use As for the fifth sense, hearing: Japanese ingredients. Now I’ll add In I often include a wide variety of sugars, and in dif- something else that sets wagashi apart black , citrus , roasted adzuki beans, green tea powder, and ferent ways. Western sweets often from Western confections is their green tea and wasabi to some of the praline. French pastry chefs who come start with wheat flour, whereas ability to stimulate an imaginative things I make, like and to Japan tell me they like adzuki wagashi start with rice. response when we hear their names, chocolate sweets. I like surprising beans a lot. which we associate with some scene people in Paris, taking their taste buds Kurokawa: I see wagashi as being in in nature, or a season. One example in new directions. Could yokan jelly ever a class by themselves because they use would be cherry trees in bloom. Mr. Kurokawa, maybe you remem- only plant ingredients, never animal ber when you came to Paris and after become as popular as oil, milk products or gelatin. Aoki: Wagashi have other marvelous, I gave you macaroons flavored with chocolate? even surprising, features that give green tea powder we talked about why Kurokawa: It’s been 33 years since we Aoki: Another distinguishing feature them world caché. Their fragrances the powder is never used in wagashi. opened our Japanese confectionery is that wagashi are often steamed. and colors are understated, and their What you said rang true to me—the shop in Paris, back in 1980. French cream puffs have cream coloring tends toward soft pastels, reason is that, traditionally, wagashi Yokan jelly6 is an important part of custard filling in a soft shell. So I with highly artistic color arrange- are to eat with tea made from green our lineup in Japan and we keep hop- think they have something in com- ments. In contrast, most French con- tea powder, during the tea ceremony. ing Parisians will like it, too. In fact, with Japan’s monaka,1 manju2 fections choose colors that suggest the it is actually gaining a few fans. Yo- and ,3 all of which have a taste inside. Anyway, I personally Kurokawa: Today, though, I’d say it kan comes in blocks, the color is dark, unique doughy exterior and a filling think wagashi tend to be better at would be OK for Japanese confections and the appearance doesn’t hint at 4 Traditional yokan jelly sweetened with made of an. France’s marron glacés pleasing the senses. to contain green tea powder. It is now what it tastes like. Anyway, we began Matcha green tea, black sesame, raspberry, brown sugar (top), and Western-style yo- roasted green tea, chocolat macaron… just kan with pear (bottom). Just two examples a few of the new tastes chef pâtissier Aoki showing how TORAYA Confectionery keeps Sadaharu creates by combining Japanese coming out with one innovation after an- and Western ingredients. other, while carrying on ancient traditions at the same time.

4 niponica 5 Left: Aoki puts the finishing touches to his matcha green tea cake, Bambou. Below: His unparalleled éclairs have a rich taste, and colors that play up the ingredi- ents. From top: tart fruit, vanilla, nutty chocolate.

including ingredients Westerners like, Kurokawa: You’re right about how Stop hiding techniques, such as black currants, mint, pears most French people have not taken to and let Japanese sweets and baked apple. And we gave our yokan yet. But Asians tend to be more spread worldwide modified yokan nice coloring and cut positive about it. People in China, it into bite-size pieces. South and Southeast are Aoki: Japanese fingers are nimble and quite at home with simmered adzuki aim for —just think of ori- Aoki: Actually, yokan isn’t my favorite beans, a major ingredient in yokan. And gami or chopsticks! And our sense of either! If you want Europeans to like its texture is somewhat like dates,7 a taste aims for it, too. Overall, the the taste you’ll probably need some favorite food in the Middle East, so Japanese have high expectations more changes, like, aim for a different probably they would like yokan, too. when it comes to refinement. Japa- texture, use firm, chunky bean paste, But think about it—people found nese cuisine and wagashi pursue avoid -agar (seaweed jelly), and chocolate bitter when it first arrived subtlety, whereas Western cuisine and give it a marron glacé effect. in Spain in the 1500s, but after it was confections generally favor some- Yokan ends up tasting more of sweetened it became a big item world- thing bolder. I would say, however, sugar than of adzuki beans. And the wide. I’m hoping to help put yokan on that chefs who are learning from Ja- Western palate generally doesn’t en- a similar path. pan know they should keep their list joy the texture of agar-agar. of ingredients simple in order to achieve refinement.

Rectangular shapes and vivid hues define these cakes by chef pâtissier Aoki Sada- haru. Foreground: Bambou, a cake with matcha green tea powder for extra flair.

These bonbons chocolat call to mind a make-up artist’s palette. The colors of the matcha green tea, yuzu citrus fruit and wasabi hint at the taste to come.

6 niponica 7 Touzakura (“cherry blossoms in the dis- tance”), by TORAYA Confectionery. The name calls to mind flowering cherry trees on a far-off mountain. To make them, blend bean paste, refined rice flour, water and sugar to make the dough, wrap it around more bean paste, and then coat with strained, colored bean paste.

An unbaked Taori-Zakura formed in a Kurokawa: Someone ranked among We have to tell people from around wooden mold. The name tells of a wistful desire to fold cherry blossoms into one’s the Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (best the world more about Japan’s good hand and return home with them. They are craftspeople of France) once gave me points. Then after they visit Japan and sold with Touzakura confections, only advice that led me to a personal return home, they will hopefully give when the cherry trees are in bloom. breakthrough: we should be willing the message to others. People of our to explain our techniques. We Japanese generation have to do more to show have tended to pass techniques down and teach the world the fine tech- in secret. But it’s by being open that niques we have. Japan will be able to make its way more effectively in the world. Kurokawa: The Olympics are coming to Japan in 2020. As you’ve sug- Aoki: Yes, people in other countries gested, it would be good to present tend to be forthright, not secretive visitors to the Games with new Japa- about what they know. nese confections that blend the boundaries separating Western sweets Kurokawa: I know of one French and wagashi. Then, in Japan we’d see crossovers woman who is in Japan studying re- 1 Monaka: Made by inserting an between two thin ally hard to become a wagashi chef, at wagashi stores, at Western-style pieces of baked mochi dough. not concerned that she can’t speak confectionary shops, and maybe even 2 Manju: Made by kneading a shell of wheat or rice flour, inserting an, then . Japanese. I’d be happy to offer my at convenience stores. It would be 3 Daifuku: Soft mochi with an filling. support to people like her. great if people from other countries 4 An: Beans (often adzuki) simmered in a syrup then crushed. Kidney beans, squash or chestnuts, etc., may could taste them and see them as be- be used instead of adzuki beans. Aoki: Three-star restaurants in Europe ing truly representative of Japanese 5 : A seasoning made by steaming , adding malted rice and salt, then allowing the mix- have people from five, six or more sweets. Mr. Aoki, let’s make that ture to ferment. countries working in their kitchens. happen. 6 Yokan: A confection made by solidifying an an mixture into a fairly long, jelly-like block. One type But the best bars in Japan don’t of yokan is made by steaming a mixture of an and have any non-Japanese prepping the wheat flour or arrowroot, the other by boiling down a mixture of an and agar-agar. ingredients. 7 Dates: Fruit of the date palm

An paste offers new taste options, such as a spread for toast or a sweetener in coffee.

Opposite page: Sweets recreated in the old style, when TORAYA Confectionery sup- Adzuki and Cacao Fondant baked at plied confections like these to the Imperial TORAYA CAFÉ. Rich and moist. Features Court in 1812. The illustrated book (below) chocolate added to an bean paste. from those days helped inspire their re- birth. The shapes, color arrangements and tastes all demonstrate the pursuit of re- finement. (Photo by Tanai Fumio)

8 niponica 9 Japanese Confections Tasty,

Kumamoto Prefecture’s mascot The mushroom cap is chocolate, This cookie “blossom” is made Fun and Cute! is called Kuma-mon. Inside the the stalk is a . (Kinoko no from wheat flour and buckwheat package with the cute bear Yama, by Meiji Co., Ltd.) flour, giving it a simple flavor. (kuma in Japanese) are bite-size The variety is tremendous, from traditional sweet chocolates. (Ikinari , by representing some part of the country to sweet snacks Tirol-Choco Co., Ltd.) loved by kids. Japanese confections delight the taste buds, please the eye, and gratify the emotions, too. Photos by Takahashi Hitomi, Tanai Fumio

This koala bear biscuit is hiding Cute monaka in the shapes of a treat inside—chocolate! (Ko- folk handicrafts. (Kaga Hachi- ala no March, by Lotte Co., Ltd.) man Okiagari Monaka, by - zawa Urata)

Sugar confection calling to mind Small crackers shaped like wisteria blossoms. (Todango, by sea creatures. (Ottotto, by Mori- Kiyome Mochi Sohonke) naga & Co., Ltd.)

Dango balls made with rice flour and , coated with . (Kusa Dango, by Chimoto) From top: Konpeito candies, made by crystallizing sugar around a core made of candy chips; A chocolate aspiring to be a okoshi snacks made from rice and other grains clumped together with candy; kiri-ame A shoot appearing out space capsule. (Apollo, by Meiji made from a stick of candy—no matter where you cut the stick, the image or character of the ground? No, it is a cookie Co., Ltd.) looks the same. (Kintaro Ame, Kaiun Eto Ame, and Suehiro Kotobuki Ame, by Kintaro- with a chocolate covered top. ame Honten) (Takenoko no Sato, by Meiji Co., Ltd.) Sweets are supposed to be fun to eat, and maybe that is nature—these are well known, but there are also many why they come in so many shapes all around the world, everyday confections whose shapes and colors show the all nice to look at. It could be, though, that Japan has more importance of flair. cute-looking sweets than anywhere else, with so many Charming and heartwarming—this describes dango balls, ways to please to the eye. often arranged two to a . The recipe calls for rice respects the importance of the visual flour to be kneaded, rolled into balls, then steamed. The presentation. Ingredients cut into artistic shapes, food ar- serving suggestion is a coating of or a ranged just so on plates and dishes, dinnerware chosen for drizzle flavored with . Dango have been around its charm… Every care is taken to ensure beauty at the for centuries, often as offerings at Buddhist ceremonies or dinner table, and that spirit certainly carries over to confec- a sign of festivities. Beginning in medieval times they made Strawberry flavored candy with Confection made with red bean Red and white, decorated with tions as well. Unbaked or dried confections, shaped into their appearance at stalls along the old post roads, and in crisp milk candy inside. (Ichigo flour into the shape of a fox’s frills and flounces. is works of art reminding us of plants and animals in tea houses within the sacred ground of shrines. When speared Miruku, by Sakuma Confection- face. Traditional sweet from the best loved cake in Japan. ery Co., Ltd.) Yamagata Prefecture. (Kitsune Men, by Umezu Kashi-ten)

10 niponica 11 onto bamboo , dango make a great take-out snack, something fun to discover and, during the New Year holi- Monaka shell formed to look like small mallets and rice straw bales. Inside are sugary confections and even today people enjoy them while out on a walk. days, perhaps a hint about your future. with shapes like sea bream (a fish for festive Monaka treats, which come in so many shapes to repre- rice crackers are made from rice or wheat flour, occasions) and cute clay figurines. A big item for the New Year holidays, because they are sent all kinds of things, are bean paste sandwiched between kneaded, rolled thin, and finally grilled. They are great as said to bring good luck. (Futtoku Senbei, by two thin, grilled mochi . They are found throughout shapes representing beautiful features in nature or a special Moroe-ya Confectionery) the country. In Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture, they are a product of a particular part of the country. See if you can traditional sweet for festive times, but instead of the bean find Mount Fuji rendered in the cute senbei medium in paste, a small sugar confection or clay figurine hides inside, these pages. The mountain is on the World Heritage List.

Senbei rice crackers representing the four seasons on Mount Fuji: matcha green tea powder (spring), black pepper (summer), red pepper (autumn), and sugar (winter). They all have the defining flavor of soy sauce. (Fuji-san Assortment, by Sen-ya)

And then there are brightly colored pop candies. Candies impossible to achieve with today’s mass production in Japan offer moments of visual pleasure, too, and perhaps methods. Their popularity remains strong, especially as a the most notable are the ones made from multi-colored simple gift. bands of sweet stuff, rolled together into sticks. No matter Snacks shaped with a humorous touch to look like sea where you cut across the stick, the image or kanji character creatures, “mushrooms” with chocolate caps, cakes deco- revealed by your knife will be the same. These candies are rated with frills and flounces… Phantasies and flights of called kiri-ame, and they have been sold for the enjoyment fancy come to life as confections, and the spirit that guides of children since the 18th century at fairs and festivals. Even these transformations lives on, to the delight of children today they have a special warm-hearted appearance, something and adults alike.

12 niponica 13 Kanzaki Noritake Kanzaki is an expert in folklore, the Direc- tor of the Institute for the Culture of Travel, a visiting professor at the Tokyo Confectionaries and University of Agriculture, and a specialist serving on the Council for Cultural Affairs of the national government’s Agency for Cultural Affairs. Among his writings the Culture of Giving are Souvenirs: Gift Giving and Travel in Japanese Culture, and Etiquette in Japa- nese Culture. Weddings, funerals, and festive occasions are all times for gift giving. In Japan there are other times too, such as events marking the season, souvenirs to bring back after a trip, and presents to express gratitude, convey an apology or a greeting, ask a favor, or even thank someone for their gift by giving one in return. Sweet food has long been regarded as a fine gift to express appreciation on the special occasions in life. Commentary: Kanzaki Noritake Photos by Takahashi Hitomi

In the early modern period fairly large something that most Japanese could making pilgrimages, most notably to It all goes back to quantities were imported through trade only dream about. Ise and Konpira shrines. They would sharing mochi rice cakes with Holland, although not enough Sugar production began in Japan come back with souvenirs, the best A look back in time to the origin of to make it a common kitchen item. in the 17th century, around the begin- being hi-gashi (a dry confectionery the custom of giving sweet food leads For many years, sugar remained ning of the (1603-1867), hardened with sugar), and shoga-to us to mochi rice cakes. Made by (ginger juice simmered in a syrup un- pounding steamed sticky rice, mochi til hard), since fancy confectionaries were an essential part of festivals cel- made with sugar were still usually ebrating a good harvest, and were beyond their financial reach. Before common offerings at funerals and long, manju (rice flour cakes with services commemorating one’s ances- sweet bean paste inside) with decora- tors. Once the formalities were over, tive writing or an illustration branded the mochi would be passed around for into the top began selling well. Manju, everyone in attendance to eat to- with their hemispherical shape and a gether. This played an important role symbol branded into the shiny sur- in cementing the relationships of face, created a medium so unique it all present. has been passed down to the present Mochi coated with a sweet bean day, for a message you can use to paste (called bota-mochi or o-hagi) are invoke a special memory or advertise still eaten during Buddhist higan fes- something. Perhaps no other country tivities around the time of the spring has such a wide selection of snacks and fall equinoxes, when people visit and decorated with illustra- family graves and offer food to the tions and writing. spirits of their ancestors. This custom, too, evolved into another occasion to eat mochi together. Especially in Wrapping to express Manju cakes with sweet bean paste inside lend themselves well to a simple written message. the emotion behind the gift farming villages, people would take Foreground: The identical kanji characters say kotobuki (“Congratulations!”). Rear: Manju branded the time and effort needed to pains- with the name of the place and a hot spring symbol, ♨. When sending confectionary as a for- takingly make plenty of bota-mochi mal gift, etiquette calls for a wrapping by hand, then present them to rela- a time of peace and greater prosperity. into an event where attractions in the that signals the reason for giving, tives, neighbors and others they had That was also a time when drinking form of sweet food were used when whether celebration or commisera- some form of ties with. This custom tea became more common, and with the daimyo lords swore their alle- tion. This is expressed in the choice is rarely observed today, although just tea came mochi snacks and baked giance to the Shogun. of protective wrapping paper, with a 20 or 30 years ago it was common sweet foods, appearing one after the Before long, the daimyo too were noshi decoration to add flair and a enough to be reflected in the saying other. Many survive to this day as holding ceremonies and outdoing one mizuhiki string to fasten the wrap- of the time, “Higan no bota-mochi— traditional sweets. another with gifts of greeting, and ping. Noshi originated with the cus- ittari kitari” (“Bota-mochi come and The feudal daimyo lords of those confectionaries became a gift as ac- tom of giving a strip of dried abalone go during the higan festivities”). days would come to the political capi- ceptable as saké or silken fabrics. Giv- during a religious event, while tal of Edo and gather in a large recep- ing something to a superior would mizuhiki are thin cords made from Sweetness, the very best tion hall at Edo Castle to participate promptly result in receiving a gift in colored Japanese paper. in the kajo ceremony, when the Sho- return. This created a cycle of giving And so, formal wrapping for a gift gift of all gun himself would pass out large practically without end, which created of sweet food is more than just a pro- Sweet food would hardly be sweet quantities of sweets. The ceremony’s a niche business—trade in gifts the tective cover—it also expresses the without sugar. When sugar first came origins go back to a time when the daimyo had no use for. emotions of the giver. The art of giv- to Japan from China in the early part Imperial Court and people in the lower ing that has evolved in Japan includes of the 8th century, people thought it classes would present sweet food to a subtle sensitivity that can be seen had medical properties too, making it A box of confections wrapped in white paper, with noshi the gods on June 16 in the hope of Sharing travel memories as characteristic of the culture. decoration (at the top right of the box) and red and a valuable commodity. The upper white mizuhiki string. The bowknot is one kind of kaeshi warding off bad luck. Under the Sho- Among the common folk of those classes often sent sugar itself as a gift. musubi knot, where the strings come back to the same gunate, however, the custom changed days there developed the custom of place to make a wish for more good luck and success.

14 niponica 15 The Beauty and Tradition of Japan’s Baskets, ceramics, Japanese paper— Delicious Wrapped Confections Containers as handicraft art Sasa leaves, bamboo, fruit peel, wooden boxes, Japanese paper… The artistic appeal of these containers will make you want to keep them long after their confections are eaten. Natural materials like these become traditional craft packaging that pleases the eyes and hints at what is inside: sweet delights. Small chest of drawers covered with Photos by Kawakami Naomi cheerful chiyo-gami paper. Each drawer has brightly colored confections made with a different type of sugar. (Chiyo Natural materials for wrapping Tansu, by Shioyoshi Ken) Bamboo bark and sasa leaves were traditionally used to help preserve foods. Today they promise a simple but tasty experience inside.

Bamboo bark makes a sturdy cover for the mochi rice cakes inside. Brown sugar adds a deliciously light sweetness, and Sasa leaves have antibacterial properties. Here cashew nuts add crunch. (Yakumo Mo- they are used to wrap chimaki, made by a shop chi, by Chimoto) whose heritage goes back to the 16th century. The selection above shows two types: the translucent one is made with arrowroot, water and sugar, while the other has the same ingredients but with an addition of bean paste kneaded into the mixture. Both types have a refreshingly delectable taste, and the fragrance of the sasa leaves penetrates them. (Chimaki, by Kawabata Doki)

The wooden box comes crammed with candy balls in five different colors. Rice The paper box with the lush pine flour is mixed with , formed into needle design contains baked confec- balls, cooked, then coated with five dif- tions made of kuzu arrowroot ferent colored flavorings for five differ- kneaded with yuzu citrus fruit. Pine ent tastes: ume apricot, yuzu citrus fruit, branches and needles are used to sig- ginger, sesame and cinnamon. (Tama nify a joyful occasion. (Yuzu no Kuzu- Orihime, by Matsu-ya Tobe’e) yaki, by Murasaki no Wakuden)

With each shake of the gourd-shaped ceramic container, out come several mellow sweet konpeito (round sugary Small bell-shaped monaka confections Juice squeezed from yuzu (a citrus fruit) confections with points on their sur- arranged neatly in a little box made of is mixed with agar-agar (seaweed jelly) faces). (Furidashi, by Murasaki no woven bamboo. The combination of the and poured into the peel, where it Wakuden) fragrant toasted crusts of sticky rice and becomes firm. A temptingly fragrant the sweet bean paste is delectable. specialty for winter. (Yu-kogori, by Mu- (Suzu no Monaka, by Suzukake) rasaki no Wakuden)

Put fine-grained wasanbonto sugar mor- sels in your mouth and they melt away quickly. They come wrapped in soft Japanese paper. The small spot of scarlet This mizu-yokan jelly, made from a mix- on the top represents the mouth of a ture of bean paste, sugar and agar-agar, maiko dancing girl. (O-choma, by Kagi- is chilled for a firm consistency. Slide it zen Yoshifusa) out of the hollow bamboo for its re- freshing sweetness. (Chikuro, by Ponto- cho Suruga-ya)

A mix of sweet agar-agar and miso-flavored beans, in clam shell containers. A con- Soft-texture sugar confections shaped fection just for summertime. Served in like plants represent the current season. a bamboo basket on Japanese cypress The cheerful design on the paper box tree leaves, they are refreshingly cool, cover will change each season. The con- for the eyes as well. (Hamazuto, by fections in this photo are for autumn. Kame-ya Norikatsu) (Han-Nama-Gashi, by Nagato)

16 niponica 17 Crunch into one of these gently curved Soft yatsuhashi with bean paste Trying out recipes for rectangular wafers, and your mouth stuffing, being made. will luxuriate in a cinnamon flavor sweet popularity over and a refreshing sweetness. These the next 100 years thin, brown wafers are made out of Meanwhile, the established yatsuhashi steamed rice flour, sugar and cinna- confectioner who had triggered the mon, and are baked and sold as ya- craze maintained its momentum with tsuhashi souvenirs representing the more innovations, while keeping the city of Kyoto, one of the world’s best traditional taste. They pushed the evo- tourist destinations. lution of their yatsuhashi brands to Several legends touch on the ori- include soft yatsuhashi shaped like gins of yatsuhashi, but the most con- Facade of the main shop of a fa- flowers (and brightly colored like mous confectioner established more vincing one tells of a blind monk from than 320 years ago. Popular soft yatsuhashi them, too), and sweets featuring in- the 1600s, called Yatsuhashi Kengyo. with bean paste stuffing. Right: gredients like caramel. The companies Hijiri style with cinnamon flavoring. Left: Hijiri He composed music for the koto, an Matcha style with green tea powder flavoring. have begun reaching out to young ancient string instrument, and played people, especially Kyoto locals who in the Sokyoku style. He is commemo- grew up without eating much yatsu- rated with this snack by the shape—it Rice flour, sugar and nikki hashi, and are trying out recipes to is like the curved surface of a koto. (cinnamon). That is basically find new products that will stand the Much later, in the early 1900s, ya- what you need to make yatsuhashi test of taste over the next 100 years tsuhashi were the first sweets to be From and longer. peddled on a railway platform in Ja- snacks the traditional way. Kyoto, Kyoto stands on a proud founda- pan. That was at Shichijo Station (to- Tradition to which remains Japan’s ultimate tion of centuries of tradition, giving day’s Kyoto Station). They created tourist city, is well known for its it confidence to be forward looking quite a stir, and yatsuhashi quickly traditional sweets, but yatsuhashi and adventurous in spirit. This is part became a souvenir favorite. a Sweet confectioners there are also of the Kyoto culture, and its sweet developing tastes and shapes foods are no exception. The prestige of tradition New World that go with the times, exploring inspires innovation Photos by Takahashi Hitomi the frontiers of delicious taste. Among souvenir hunters yatsuhashi Collaboration: Shogo-in Yatsuhashi Sohonten have long been a favorite baked con- fectionery, but another, softer variety, also has a respectable history, al- though in the past it was eaten only Yatsuhashi Kengyo has a strong by locals, partly because it does not connection with yatsuhashi swee- They have different shapes and different ts. He was a master of a musical tastes, but they are all soft yatsuhashi stuffed keep well. This variety is called nama instrument called the koto (pic- with bean paste. From top: Hijiri Kurogoma (soft and unbaked) yatsuhashi. A sug- tured at bottom right). Tradition (black sesame seeds); Hijiri Chocolat; Hijiri has it that, after his death, con- Ichigo (strawberry). gestion made during a tea ceremony fectioners began making this type Nestlé KitKat Mini Shogoin Yatsu- of sweet in the shape of the koto, in 1960 prompted well-known yatsu- hashi with cinnamon flavored to honor his contribution to white chocolate mixed with hashi confectioners to come out with koto music. Cannelle (thin yatsuhashi dough a new product: soft yatsuhashi wrapped rolled into sticks then baked; “can- crushed yatsuhashi confection (by nelle” is French for cinnamon.) Nestlé Japan Ltd.). around red bean paste. These treats, triangular in shape with sweet bean paste inside, quickly became popular and took on a major role in Kyoto’s confectionery souvenir industry. Later, the companies began offering an array of creative varieties, includ- ing soft yatsuhashi with different bean pastes and tastes, and baked ya- tsuhashi with a sprinkling of sugar or chocolate. The result was plenty of demand in shops and souvenir outlets throughout Kyoto.

The newest evolution in soft ya- tsuhashi: cute and colorful. The style of the shop (left) where they are sold is similar to that of a Western-style confectionery store. (Store name: nikiniki)

Baked yatsuhashi snacks. Their charm lies in the flavor of sweet rice flour, the fragrance of cinna- mon, and the crunchy texture.

18 niponica 19 Candies and chocolates are all neatly displayed. Products new to the market and popular items are placed Convenience Stores at eye level, while sweet products or items with prizes for kids and cheap items are on lower shelves. This is the basic rule of thumb for confection displays in convenience stores. A Paradise of

A huge selection, from regular products to banished. Not even 20% of all the snacks and sweets on Snacks and Sweets the shelves are regular products. As for the rest, in some items never seen before chains 20 to 30 types of products disappear on average It would be hard to imagine life in Japan today without Always open, standing ready even in residential districts every week, to be replaced by new ones. convenience stores (“conbini” for short). Conbini are open day without other stores, a part of life in Japan... Snacks and and night, are located almost everywhere, and offer a wide variety of products sweet foods are readily available throughout the country, Taste you would expect from and great tastes, including a wonder world of snacks and sweet foods. but the conbini lineup probably beats them all, taking up almost half the shelf space in an average-sized store. a specialty store, but cheaper Photos by Natori Kazuhisa Collaboration: MINISTOP Co., Ltd. and Lawson, Inc. The snacks and sweets on display fit into three catego- Over the last few years, the chilled desserts known as “Con- ries: regular products, limited specials, and new items. The bini sweets" have become popular. Their quality is quite regular products include potato chips and chocolates, all close to what specialty shops offer, and yet they are rela- long sellers everyone knows—some have been popular for tively cheap. generations. The limited specials are sold only for a certain “Conbini sweets" became the talk of the town around period of time, or in certain areas. Many are seasonal, or 2009. They began as desserts with a luxury appeal, at prices reflect local tastes as specialty foods. just a little bit higher than what one would expect at a It is hard for a new product to become a regular on conbini. So they succeeded in changing the impression of conbini shelves. Computerized systems quickly order in sweets sold in conbini, from “cheap, but you only get what products that sell well, while slower items are soon you pay for” to “relatively inexpensive, and great to eat.”

Convenience stores are part of everyday life in Japan. They have a wide variety of snacks and sweets, from regular products like potato chips to cakes like you might find in a specialty bakery.

20 niponica 21 “Conbini sweets” are the rage these days. No wonder—when it comes to taste, they leave nothing to be Make Some, Eat Some: desired. Savor the Experience of Japanese Sweets and Snacks Add this to your itinerary while traveling in Japan: making some Japanese sweets and snacks. You can try your hand at it if you visit certain long-established shops or popular places.

Try making traditional sweets by hand You would probably find it hard to make wagashi without a little instruction. Luckily, Kyoto has many old and well-respected shops with their own wagashi culture, and a growing number of people, many of them young women, are keen to try their hand at this traditional art. Photos by Takahashi Hitomi Collaboration: Kanshundo

Form bean paste into a small ball, and Some conbini chains have teamed up with culinary re- then coat it with another type of col- ored, strained, and mashed bean paste. search experts and pastry chefs, developing items that will Fancy shapes like these are actually grab attention and present new tastes. quite difficult to achieve. One reason “Conbini sweets" sell well is because the convenience stores have begun to attract so many different 1 types of people. Before, the majority of customers were male, since the stores are open 24 hours and they sell ready-to-eat meals (including of course lunchboxes). But today just about everyone shops at conbini. To satisfy These temptingly beautiful wagashi are shaped to remind us of nature in au- the preferences of female and elderly customers, too, more tumn, like a red leaf or a ripe persimmon. stores are shifting from snacks and sweets that emphasize Now they are ready to eat. quantity rather than quality (formerly the norm), to “Con- bini sweets" that are smaller but taste better. Women tend 2 Kanshundo, a wagashi shop in Kyoto, has roots going back almost 150 to be more calorie-conscious, and conbini have recognized years, and almost every day it holds classes on how to prepare tradi- this, riding the popularity wave of traditional sweets. Ex- tional sweets. Make a reservation beforehand and you, too, can easily join a class. Written instructions are available in English, Korean cept for ever-popular regular products like cream puffs, and Chinese. “Conbini sweets", too, end up disappearing every one to For more information, contact Kanshundo: http://www.kanshundo.co.jp/museum/make/annai.htm four months or so, to be replaced by new types. Conbini closely mirror the enthusiasm Japanese people have for snacks and sweets. Every week, dozens of new snacks and sweets make their appearance on conbini A Wonderland of Snacks and Sweets Waiting shelves, all part of the unending exhibition of snacks and To Be Discovered Under Tokyo Station sweets in modern-day Japan. Many people from all over Japan and all over the world come to Tokyo, and the gateway to the city is Tokyo Station. Under the station is Tokyo Okashi Land, the location of a number of shops that serve as showrooms for major confectionery producers. 3 Come to taste sweets fresh from the confectioner’s hands, and buy exclusive items. Snacks loved by the Japanese are here in many different forms, all enjoyable. Collaboration: Tokyo Station Development Co., Ltd.

4 Below left: Another outlet under Tokyo Station, Calbee+, is operated by the famous snack maker CALBEE, Inc. Try their potato chips straight out of the fryer. Below right: Hi-Chew candy has a texture something like chewing gum, and during irregularly scheduled events Morinaga Candy Shop shows people how to mold it into fun shapes by stretching or squishing it.

1. Premium Roll Cake was instru- mental in triggering the “Conbini sweets” boom. (Lawson) 2. Ankoya Dora-yaki have a soft, ’s confectionery store Glicoya cake-like texture, and sweet bean Kitchen is aptly named—it has its own kitchen paste inside.(Lawson) selling just-made sweets. One regularly avail- 3. Cream Shiratama Zenzai Kuri are able treat is almonds that are coated in choco- chilled dango balls with bean late then transformed into something truly paste. (MINISTOP) scrumptious with a sprinkling of cocoa powder 4. Ankoya O-hagi: Mochi rice cakes (photo on right). covered in an bean paste (Lawson) For more information, contact Tokyo Okashi Land: http://www.tokyoeki-1bangai.co.jp/street/okashi 5. Deluxe Rare Cake Parfait (MINISTOP) 5 *Some products may no longer be on the market.

22 niponica 23 Asakusa and Sea of Japan

Osaka Mukojima Tokyo Snacks and Rambles in Asakusa, Mukojima 1 Yesteryear Tokyo Photos by Ito Chiharu Map by Oguro Kenji Pacific Ocean

Strolling

A 10-minute walk from Oshiage Sta- Japan tion brings you to Jikken-bashi Bridge over the Kita Jikken-gawa River, a great spot to see the reflected sakasa 3 (upside down) Tokyo Skytree.

Above right: This yokan jelly highlights the fragrance of . (By Fu- nawa Honten Co., Ltd.) Left: Ningyo-yaki sponge cakes come in shapes such as a five-storied pagoda or pigeon. (By Kimura-ya Honten) 2

3 4 1. Nakamise Market is often crowded. About 90 shops line both sides of the pedestrian way. 2. The lantern under Kaminari-mon Gate weighs 700 kg. It is 3.9 meters in height and 3.3 meters in diameter. 3. The Main Hall of Senso-ji Temple is dedicated to Kanzeon Bosatsu, the bodhisattva of mercy and compassion. 4. The incense cauldron in front of the Main Hall is always an attraction. According to tradi- tion, fanning the smoke toward a part of your body that ails will bring relief.

Tokyo Skytree is currently the world’s tallest freestanding snacks are known for being simple and unpretentious yet tower. It stands near Asakusa and Mukojima, two of To- quite substantial. kyo’s best tourist destinations, which are more popular than The preeminent icon of the Asakusa district is the Kam- ever since the tower opened in May 2012. The two districts inari-mon Gate, which guards Senso-ji Temple. Pass face each other across the Sumida River. through it and you are in the Nakamise Market, a long The area offers the taste experiences of working-class walkway lined with shops leading to the temple. Busy since people whose culture helped define the Edo period (1603- the Edo period, it is one of Japan’s oldest shopping districts. 1867). That was when Japan’s political life became centered Here you will see handcrafts and souvenirs for sale, along on the metropolis now called Tokyo. Tokyo’s traditional with many kinds of specialty snacks and sweet foods.

24 niponica 25 Far left: Hands-on experience making kaminari- A water bus takes tourists down the okoshi, at Tokiwado Kaminariokoshi Honpo Co., Sumida River to Tokyo's busy port, Ltd. The business was established 250 years ago. about 40 minutes away. Mix together a starchy syrup and sugar, add pea- nuts, then simmer. Steam rice, dry it, then mash and roast it. Next, add the rice to the simmered mixture, then place in a mold. Cut into pieces suit- able for eating and serve. Left and below: Photos show ingredients for mak- ing kaminari-okoshi, and the final product.

These include imo-yokan (a simple treat made from steamed, selling kaminari-okoshi. You will enjoy the crunchy texture by long-established shops. If you walk on a little further solidified sweet potato paste), ningyo-yaki ( in and rich, sweet taste of these morsels of roasted, steamed you will come to Kameido Tenjin Shrine, where you can shapes like the five-storied pagoda and pigeons associated rice held together with a sticky candy. You can even try try kuzu-mochi (a steamed cake made from fermented with the temple nearby), and senbei crackers (made by to make some here, too. Take one of the specially designed wheat). It is semi-transparent, refreshingly cool, springy in rolling out rice flour and then baking it with a little soy cans to put them in and take with you—a great souvenir idea. texture, and fun to bite off in small pieces. Here at Ichiban-ya, expert confec- tioners make senbei rice crackers and sauce for added flavor). After your confectionery adventure, avoid the bustle of After getting a taste of Tokyo’s sweet-town, you might serve them just off the grill. Once you pass through the market you will find yourself Nakamise Market and ramble instead toward the Sumida want to go back to the river and take a water bus down- gazing up at the pagoda on your left, before entering the River, with Tokyo Skytree dominating the sky above. On stream from Asakusa to Tokyo's busy port—a fun, 40-min- inner grounds of the temple. In front of you stands the the other side of the river is the Mukojima district, where ute jaunt that passes under several bridges. main building where people pay their respects. When this many other famous sweet foods await. Sakura-mochi (sweet little ceremony is done, you may want to stroll to the rice cakes wrapped in cherry tree leaves) and colorful dango confectionery stall behind the pagoda, which is known for (-like sweets) are just two of the delights sold here

Keisei-hikifune Station 

 Hikifune Station

Keisei Oshiage Line Getting there Tobu  Asakusa From Narita International Airport, take the Sumida River  Station Tokyo Narita Sky Access Express (about 1 hr), or a  Skytree  limousine bus (about 120 min) Tokyo Skytree Line For more info Tokyo Skytree “Asakusa-Sightseeing” website (about 80   Station Tokyo Metro  languages, including Arabic, Chinese, English, Asakusa Station French, German, Korean, Russian and Spanish): Toei Asakusa Honjo-azumabashi Station http://asakusa-kankou.com/ Station  “Visit Sumida” website (English, Chinese and Korean)  Tokyo Skytree Senso-ji Temple http://visit-sumida.jp/ Left: When Chomei-ji Sakura-mochi first came Shutokosoku Expressway  Jikken-hashi Bridge on the market in Old Japan, cherry tree leaves Kaminari Gorogoro Chaya were gathered from the banks of the Sumida  Kaminari-mon Gate  Chomeiji Sakura Mochi River in the Asakusa district, pickled in salt after a good washing, and then wrapping around  Nakamise Market  Kototoi Dango Kameido Tenjin mochi rice cakes containing bean paste.  Ichiban-ya  Funabashi-ya Above: Kototoi Dango bean paste balls with Shrine  Funawa  Asakusa Suijo-basu three types of flavorings: red adzuki beans, The mood in the restaurant is relaxing, and the N (water bus) Wharf white kidney beans, and brown miso. steamed kuzu-mochi rice cakes have a special taste  Kimura-ya Honten all their own, topped off with a sprinkling of fragrant 0 200m  toasted flour and black molasses. (By Funabashi-ya Kameido Tenjin-mae Honten)

26 niponica 27 Souvenirs of Japan 3

Green Tea Photo by Ito Chiharu Collaboration: Uogashi-Meicha Co., Ltd.

In Japan, green tea is a part of daily life. Tea with pour it over the tea leaves. This way, you bring out something sweet is such a universal experience here even more of the fine taste and fragrance. The first that the phrase o-cha-uke (literally “receive tea”) actu- cup excels in fragrance, the second cup in taste, the ally implies “bringing out the flavor of tea with a third and subsequent cups in opening up the leaves to confection.” The pleasantly sharp flavor of green tea enhance the taste. These subtle changes add to the goes well with a sweet or salty snack, and it leaves the enjoyment of tea. Another option: steep the leaves in mouth feeling refreshed, too. water in a large pot or bottle (photo: rear left). Chilled Place tea leaves in a teapot, pour in enough hot tea made this way will cool and refresh you on hot water for one cup, serve, then pour in the same amount summer days. of water again and again, for each person to be served. Green tea bags are handy and easy to use, making This is the basic pattern followed for serving green them an ideal souvenir from Japan. tea. Boil water, allow it to cool to about 80 °C, then

Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Japan 2014 no.12 2-2-1 Kasumigaseki, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-8919 Japan 〈英語版〉 http://www.mofa.go.jp/ (Ministry's official website) http://web-japan.org/ (Website providing information on Japan)