I. nn H aa l l t t : : 7th ● First words 8th ● Warning!

T H ee O r er te t si cic sHH ee PP y r Or O t et ce HH nn i ki k 9 ● Introduction 10 ● The line between explosives and pyrotechnics 11-13 ● Ingredients 15-15 ● What is what? 16 ● Metals, additives and their effects 17 - 35 ● The great ABC of pyrotechnics 36 ● Professional manufacture of Decompose & Stars 37-38 ● Color system for stars (Veline color system) 39 ● carving charges (additional course) 40 - 42 ● Bullet and cylinder bombs 43 ● missiles 44 ● General information about black powder 45 ● Black powder in firecrackers, rockets and bombs

46-47 ● Mesh sizes and units 48 ● The inches table 49-52 ● Fuses 53 ● Kraft paper 54 ● volcanoes 55 ● Laws, parents and places 56-57 ● Security - a big issue!

- 2 - P r ar ak t t si cic sHH ee PP y r Or O t et ce HH nn i ki k 58 ● Introduction

S. cc HH ww aa r zr zpp u l vl ve r ru u n d ss ee i ni ne VV e r wr w aa n d t st scc HH aa f f t t 59-63 ● Mixing sensitive substances ► seven ► swivel ► fold ► Wet method (only for stars?) 64-67 ● black powder (dry) ► What other mixes are there? 68-69 ● black powder (wet) 70-71 ● The graining and granulating 72-78 ● Yellow Powder ► Advantages - disadvantages ► Normal ► Strong ► Ignition models 79-98 ● Lightning bolt powder (Flash) ► The most famous flash sentences ► Warning notices ► Flash mixes ► Experience reports 99 ● TP flash 100-101 ● Whistle Mix 102-104 ● Red Iron Whistle Mix 105 ● H3 106 ● KP 106 ● Golden powder

R. aa u c HH uu n d NN e b e l l 107 ● Introduction 108-111 ● AN or KNO3? A comparison! 112-117 ● ON Smokes 118-123 ● KNO3 smokes ► Legendary KNO3 Smoke 124-126 ● Colored smoke ► Mixtures 127-131 ● Bengal fire

- 3 - R. aa k e t et en 132 ● Introduction 133-140 ● Structure ► body ► nozzle ► fuel ► Processing ► Ignition and guide rod 141-142 ● fuel

K l el ei ni ne s F.F. ee u e r wr w ee r kr k 143-144 ● Sparkler bombs 145 ● The match stick 146-147 ● Sparklers 148-150 ● Bumblebees and bees 151-155 ● The helicopter 156-157 ● Firecracker 158-159 ● Milligram bangers 160-162 ● Spanish fireworks 163-166 ● fountains (construction) 167-168 ● Flashing sentences

F. ee u e r wr w ee r kr kdd e r rH H öö H ee r er en KK l al as ss ee n I.I. 169 ● Introduction 170-177 ● The making of stars ► The star mix ► Rolled stars ► Pumped stars ► Cut stars 178-180 ● The mortar ► The simple PVC mortar ► The Hungary mortar 181-187 ● Potato Cannons - The Mortar Revolution? 188-190 ● cylinder bombs 191-197 ● Bullet bombs ► Massive bullet bombs ► Hollow ball bombs ► The lift 198-199 ● Ghostmines 200-204 ● Battery fireworks 205-207 ● Improvised fog thrower

- 4 - F. ee u e r wr w ee r kr kdd e r rH H öö H ee r er en KK l al as ss ee n I.I. I.I. -- B. O mm b ee nn 208 ● Introduction 209-210 ● Falling Leaf Shell (1 ") 211-214 ● Aerial Shell (2 "Sphere) 215-221 ● Chrysanthemum Shell (3 ") 222-230 ● Double Petal Shell (6 ") 231-232 ● Ü-Egg Shell

E. f fe f k f te et e 233-234 ● Tiger Tail 235-236 ● crackling 237 ● Titanium Whistle Mix 238-239 ● Color change for stars 240-242 ● Barrage 243-244 ● The fireball 245-248 ● Thermit fountains 249 ● Flying sparks 250 ● tinsel 251-252 ● glitter 253-256 ● waterfall

K n a l l kl lö k r pr pe r r 257 ● Introduction 258-263 ● What should the firecrackers consist of? A comparison! ► paper ► cardboard ► PVC ► Conclusion 264-265 ● The PVC firecrackers 266-267 ● Cubic cannon strikes 268-270 ● Type "thunderclap" 271-273 ● La Bomba / Polumnas 274 ● Cherry bomb 275-278 ● M-80 278 ● Film can blowers 279-280 ● Knick paper bumpers 281-285 ● The Kracher vom Herr (DKH)

- 5 - D. ie i ZeZ ü n d u n G 286 ● Introduction 287-290 ● Fuses or sparklers? A comparison! 291 ● Tapematch 292-293 ● Blackmatch 294 ● Quickmatch 295 ● Visco 296-297 ● Ignition straws 298-299 ● Friction igniter 300-301 ● Ignition paper 302-304 ● Electric igniter 305-306 ● Exotic detonators

T O O ls l usu n d M.M. aa s cc HH i ni ne n 307-312 ● Hydraulic press 313-325 ● Self-made ball mill

C. HH ee m i ik k a l l ei in e H ee r sr st et el l ul ln u G 326-327 ● aluminum powder 328-329 ● barium nitrate 330-331 ● barium peroxide 332-337 ● Pyro charcoal 338-340 ● potassium nitrate 341-342 ● potassium chlorate 343-346 ● sodium nitrite

S. OO nn s t tG i iee G s 347-348 ● Wheat paste (for bomb coverings) 349-350 ● How much do chemicals cost at fair dealers?

351-425 ● Chemical database 426-427 ● Labels for printing 428 ● Templates for Cubic Cannon Strikes 429-432 ● Photo series 433 ● The LBVG team 434-436 ● Acknowledgments 437 ● Everything has an end

- 6 - E. rs r tse t W. eW. O r re t t e

Welcome back to the old hands, and greetings to all newbies.

A lot has happened since the release of Pyromans Revenge. Criticism, suggestions and ideas have resulted in a new edition of our work.

In Pyromans Revenge 2.0, just like in the first, we deal with the widest possible range of pyrotechnics. Many instructions have been refined, new ones added and bugs fixed.

We are also presenting new categories such as “Special Shells” and “Chemical Production”. With XXX pages, the most comprehensive work in pyrotechnics is now on the scene. With that, however, this book has also reached its limits. There will definitely not be a third book.

However, if you are looking for instructions for bombs and explosives here, you are completely out of place. There are enough public forums that deal with this (Xplosives).

Pyrotechnics is a broad field and, in contrast to the manufacture of explosives, it is the premier class of our hobby. Some of us started making and detonating explosives with nitroglycerin and hexamine dinitrate. In pyrotechnics, such an entry in the "middle" is not recommended.

Beginners should first familiarize themselves with the theory and then start slowly. Better to start slowly than lose fingers.

Advanced and professionals should browse to their hearts' content. A lot has happened in recent years ...

the authors

- 7 - ! W.! W. aa r nr uun nn G ! !

Pyrotechnics are dangerous. Anyone who claims otherwise is lying!

However, each of us decides about our own risk. Anyone who works without the necessary sensitivity or sloppily runs the risk of ending up in the emergency room.

Although we do not work with peroxides, acids or the like here, certain safety precautions should be observed.

We recommend: ▪ safety goggles ▪ Gloves ▪ Respiratory protection

The fine metal dust and particles such as sulfur or potassium permanganate are not exactly healthy for the eyes, lungs and skin.

We don't want to create a hysterical panic here, if you don't eat the chemicals for breakfast, you can be healthy stay ... cough ... cough. But you should still protect yourself from such things.

Despite all the safety precautions, something can always happen here. But this risk also exists when we walk to the bakery in the morning or go to work in the office.

The imitation of the instructions shown here is at your own risk.

the authors

- 8th - T H ee O re r te ts i c ci HHs ee PP yy r Or Ote t cce HH nn i ki k

E. in i nle l ie iu t n nt Gu

Uhhhhh ... theory ... does that have to be?

Of course, nobody can ignore the theory. It provides a basic understanding for beginners and useful information for advanced users. To get ahead of accidents or unsuccessful experiments, they should be studied sincerely and carefully.

Most accidents, regardless of whether they involve pyro or blasting technology, happen because people prefer to have an explosion quickly instead of thinking long and hard about why it actually happens that way.

So read up on the relevant areas. Even if you only want to build firecrackers, for example, it is not wrong to deal with the principle of spherical and cylinder bombs. We have developed firecrackers especially for this book that contain the components of a cylinder or cylinder bomb.

It should also be mentioned that we provide a much shorter theoretical part compared to the Pyrocookbook of Vitamin C. Chapters like “The History of Pyrotechnics” may be of interest to some people, but they do not help us much when dealing with practical pyrotechnics. That is why we have mainly selected topics that we also need in the practical part.

We do not take any responsibility for the absolute correctness of the theory. We are only human and mistakes are part of it. However, we have pretty much the most precise information that we have been able to find so far.

With that in mind, have fun.

- 9 - D. ie i GeG r er nne z ez z e zw w is i ccs H ee nn S.S. pp re r nne G ss t Ot Of f uf f n nu dd PP yy r Or Ote t cce H nn ik i k

Where does pyrotechnics end and where does the field of explosives begin?

A question that cannot be answered with numbers and data. The amount of substances used is also not a definable limit. After all, the largest, officially used bullet bombs weigh several kilos.

The real difference lies in the purpose of the products. In the case of explosives, it is usually about changing something in a simple and quick way, lay people also speak of “bombing and blasting away”. However, these expressions do not do justice to useful constructions such as cut and shaped charges. No one will ever use flash sentences with them, after all, this is not their intended use.

Pyrotechnic products, on the other hand, should produce an effect, usually visual. This is not about the largest possible explosion or particularly much destruction. Furthermore, a picture that is as impressive and perfect as possible should be created using fewer materials.

So if you think you should put as much flash powder as possible into a tube just to get a big punch, you should think about whether you would be better off with explosives. Although we cannot absolve ourselves of this guilt due to our developed “clap of thunder”, we still have control over our actions and are sure not to try something like that again.

Anyone interested in the subject should be aware of this practical limit.

- 10 - I.n I. Hn aa l ls t s st ts Ot Of fe f f e

Most pyrotechnic sets are built on the same principle:

Oxygen supplier + oxygen absorbing substance + additive (Oxidizing agent)

The most important oxidizing and reducing agents as well as some additives are briefly presented here:

Oxidizing agent:

Potassium chlorate: Extremely popular oxygen supplier, at least for Hobby pyrotechnicians. Due to its lower stability, however, the safe potassium perchlorate should be used

! Do not combine with sulfur or ammonium salts. Spontaneous self-ignition possible and greater sensitivity to shock and Spark!

Potassium perchlorate: Has a higher oxygen content than Potassium chlorate. Nevertheless, it is more stable and therefore safer.

Potassium nitrate: Probably the best known oxidizing agent. Basic material of Black powder and the majority of all fireworks present.

Sodium Nitrate: Actually stronger than Potassium Nitrate, but because of it hygroscopic properties, it becomes damp too quickly. Therefore only to be found in special sentences like stars.

- 11 - Barium nitrate: an important means of coloring the flames. Be a bengal fire colored green by this nitrate. Can also be used in flash sets.

Potassium permangant: Used in commercial pyrotechnics though at all, then rarely used. Is considered to be unstable and toxic to the environment. Still a very popular oxidizer in flash sentences.

The reaction in a flash sentence results in traces of brown stone.

Oxygen-absorbing substances and additives

Charcoal: A classic ingredient in black powder and most Pyrotechnic phrases. With this fabric, the most important thing is the quality. Activated charcoal or barbecue charcoal are unsuitable.

The best variety is buckthorn charcoal, followed by pine, beech and alder charcoal.

Extremely dusty when rubbed in a mortar, dust mask is mandatory.

Sulfur: The so-called sulfur bloom is cheaper, but because of it unsuitable due to the higher residual acid content. Rod sulfur ground into powder is used in many pyrotechnic sentences.

Accelerate the reaction of the sentences and at the same time ensure a slightly higher temperature.

Sodium benzoate: represented in almost all whistle mixes such as whistle mix. In connection with chlorates or perchlorates, an extremely sensitive mixture is created.

- 12 - Lactose: Part of many smoke sets.

Titanium: Titanium is the best substance for generating sparks and Tail. But instead of fine powder, mostly titanium flakes / semolina are used.

Aluminum powder: Fine aluminum powder comes in the so-called Horror of stares. In connection with chlorates, a flash powder with brute force is created.

Coarser aluminum powder is used for thermitems and spark tails. Aluminum flakes appear in many "waterfall effects".

Magnesium powder: Developed clearly as part of a flash set more heat and light than aluminum. However, sentences associated with magnesium are also more sensitive.

Zinc powder: Heavy powder that is mainly used in smoke and Smoke sets occurs. KNO3 sugar smokes with a low zinc content, deliver gray, thick smoke, but also ignite poorly.

Iron arrow shavings: Mainly used in spark sets.

PVC: White powder used mainly in Bengal lights / fires is used. Makes the flame even more intense and brighter.

Shellac: Soluble in ethanol, can then be used as protection for fuses Water can be used.

- 13 - W. aa ss i is s t t W.W. aa ss ??

Potassium nitrate is an oxidizing agent, sulfur is a reducing agent and strontium sulfate is a coloring agent. As far as beginners know. But as soon as names such as lead tetraoxide, red gum or ferrotitanium appear, even professionals are quickly overwhelmed.

Of course you can look up the properties of each one individually, but you don't always have the time. So far there has been no simple overview. That’s over now.

We present most of the oxidizing and reducing agents here, as well as coloring agents and fuels. Many chemicals have several functions in pyrotechnics and therefore appear in 2-3 lists.

Oxidizing agent Reducing agent

Ammonium nitrate Akkaroid resin (Red Gum) Ammonium perchlorate aluminum Barium chlorate Antimony (tri) sulfide Barium nitrate iron Barium perchlorate Ferroaluminum Barium peroxide Ferrotitanium Lead nitrate Hexamine Lead (II, IV) oxide Charcoal Boric acid Potassium benzoate Potassium chlorate Potassium salicylate

Potassium nitrate Lactose Potassium perchlorate magnesium Potassium permanganate Magnalium Sodium nitrate Sodium benzoate Strontium nitrate Sodium salicylate Nitrocellulose Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) sulfur shellac Silicon

titanium zinc

- 14 - Color donor binder

Barium carbonate Akkaroid resin ('Red Gum') Barium chlorate Dextrin Barium nitrate Gum arabic Barium perchlorate Nitrocellulose Barium peroxide Parlon Barium sulfate shellac Calcium carbonate Calcium sulfate Cryolite Copper carbonate Release agent Copper chloride Copper oxide Aerosil Copper oxychloride graphite Sodium bicarbonate Magnesium carbonate Sodium nitrate Sodium oxalate Sodium sulfate Strontium carbonate Strontium nitrate stabilizer Strontium oxalate Barium carbonate Strontium sulfate Boric acid Ultramarine Calcium carbonate Potassium dichromate Magnesium carbonate Sodium bicarbonate Strontium carbonate

- 15 - M. ee ta t la el l, l,Z eZ uu ss Ä t te z u zu enn dd i iH H re r E. eE. f fe f k kf tee t e

In the world of pyrotechnics, a lot revolves around the rubric "Effects". In addition to the usual color effects of stars and torches, the category of spark effects is also a broad field.

Both metals and other additives are used for a spark effect. In the following we briefly introduce the individual metals and their effect color, as well as other additives.

aluminum Along with magnesium, aluminum is one of the best-known additives in pyrotechnics. Its use can be intense white Flames and silver sparks are generated. Most of the time, aluminum grit is used, less often coarse aluminum powder

iron Here you can almost speak of the counterpart of charcoal. Iron also creates golden sparks, which are far brighter than coal sparks and even in the yellow Color range go. Iron is used for this, mostly in the form of iron filings or iron pellets

Ferroaluminum Alloy made of iron and aluminum with an aluminum content of at least 30% (the most common 35% Al. This creates a gold-silver Effect.

Charcoal This additive is a cheap alternative to metal powders. Stars or fountains with a high proportion of carbon develop dark golden sparks. Here, too, the size of the sparks is related to the particle size.

titanium This hard and unfortunately very expensive metal powder is mainly used for silver-blue Sparks used. These sparks are usually extremely intense. Especially in large, fine numbers, a particularly shiny effect develops in the night sky which sometimes (depending on the altitude) seems to "blink".

- 16 - D. aa ss GG r Or ßOß ee A.A. B. C. dd ee r rP P yy r Or Ote t cce H nn ik i k

There are tons of technical terms in pyrotechnics. This is also very useful for getting to the point quickly in instructions or explanations.

If you find a term somewhere that you do not understand, there is definitely the right explanation here.

Burning plan The burning plan of a fireworks display contains the programmatic sequence of the show. The individual lines mostly correspond to individual effects or combinations of effects (such as bomb chains). A certain amount of creativity is required to combine these effects in a meaningful way.

It usually includes:

• number • Assembly position • Picture number • Effect description • Effect time (time at which the effect becomes visible to the viewer) caliber • • comment • costs • Current number • Angle of inclination for the firing ignition • address • Ignition time (time of ignition of an effect)

Burning place The place where the various fireworks are set up and later burned down. It should be conveniently located for the audience, with a safety distance of 20 to 250 meters from the audience depending on the effects. In general, the consent of the property owner must be available.

- 17 - avenue A double row of vertically standing, simultaneously burning sparks, Roman lights or grain throwers running after the spectator.

Cheering A pulp of powdered flour and water or alcohol that is spread into the case mouth of finished fireworks, easily catches fire and transfers the same to the inside.

Junction The term connection point refers to the place at which the cables coming from the detonators converge during electrical ignition and are connected to a reusable system. This can be either the module of an ignition system or the main control panel of the ignition system

Output The gunpowder in mortars, fire barrels, etc.

Ejection charge Grained black powder ("gunpowder", fireworks powder, grain powder, grain powder) for launching bomb beds, bombs, fire pots, etc. from pipes (eg mortars). For this purpose, the ejection charge is located below the corresponding fireworks and is ignited by means of a wire, stoppine, electric detonator or similar. The explosive combustion gases of the discharge charge catapult (pushing effect) the "projectile" (the effect or fireworks) out of the launch tube.

Rule of thumb: Ejection charge = 15% of the star's weight

Bar wheel A rotating fire with propellant sleeves and garnishes attached to a slat that rotates around its center in a vertical plane.

- 18 - battery

A battery is a compilation (e.g. in frames, racks) of fireworks (mortar tubes, Roman lights, fire pots, rockets, etc.), which are enticed together and in quick succession or at the same time by just one ignition fire ("on strike").

tree Fixed sparks, the sleeves of which are attached to a slatted frame in such a way that it looks like a trunk with branches on the side when it burns.

Bengal flames Colored flames that are piled up loosely or stuffed into thin tubes of paper or tinfoil burn down.

Swarm of bees A firework that throws a number of swarmers into the air one after the other.

To be more precise: a large grain thrower, around which it stands vertically Sleeve smaller sleeves are arranged at different heights. They are connected to the interior of the grain thrower by fire control tubes, each contain a swarm and the necessary powder. The swarmer is ejected as soon as the fire in the grain thrower has burned down to the guide tube in question.

- 19 - Black / blind shell Bombs that have risen but not blown and dismantled (Black Shell, Blind Shell, Dud) must be searched for the fireworks and also destroyed in water.

indicator They are used as flares or Bengal flames, which flash briefly in quick succession. The decisive factor here is a powdered aluminum-magnesium alloy in which the Mg burns in a dark reaction, with the remaining aluminum finally reacting in a flash from a critical amount.

bomb Bombs are the most important Fireworks at height fireworks. In contrast to rockets, which are propelled by a propellant according to the recoil principle during their ascent, bombs are fired from pipes (mortars) (principle of a "cannon"). They are caused by the pushing effect of a very quickly burning,

granular black powder ejection charge ("Shot") driven out of the barrel and only fly on after being shot due to inertia. Burning off the black powder simultaneously activates a delay detonator, which after approx. 2 to 6 seconds ignites a decomposing charge and thus the effects inside the bomb at the zenith of its trajectory.

There are two basic designs for bombs:

Ball and cylinder bombs With both variants, the caliber can be around 50 to 300mm, rarely 400mm or more be; Japanese bullet bombs can be over a meter in diameter. Bomb mortars are usually made of cardboard or plastic (GRP or HDPE), less often of aluminum or steel, depending on the caliber, type and weight of the bombs.

- 20 - They are often put together in (wooden) frames (racks) of around 3 to 10 batteries. Steel pipes (e.g. for large-caliber cylinder bombs) are buried individually to about 2/3 of their length in the ground for safety reasons (possible splinters from a pipe crack).

Fires The case, which is massively charged with a set of sparks, serves to form standing and moving pieces of fireworks. Also called fountain or fountain fire. Usually punched and burst at the end of the fire.

burner In fireworks sets the substance that enables the correct combustion, sulfur, coal, shellac, etc. The burner is for the set what the wick is for a candle.

Brilliant fire Particularly nice spark fire, in contrast to the ordinary. The relevant components of the brilliant fire set are steel or cast iron filings, etc. Today, aluminum and titanium filings are often used to generate sparks.

bouquet Missiles or bombs fired at the same time as missile compartments or ostriches. Usually used before the final.

BVPK The Federal Association for Pyrotechnics and Artificial Fireworks eV (short: BVPK) is an association founded in 2007 for amateur and Professional fireworkers. The purpose according to the statutes is the promotion and maintenance of the fireworks culture, the fireworks customs and the fireworks in Germany.

Chinese fire A kind of brilliant fire. Cast iron produces yellow, flower-like sparks.

- 21 - Communication Fire lines, fuse connections.

Cylinder flames Bengali fire burning in pods. Pods

Detonation The explosion going on with a bang ..

Turning star Fixed star with rotary movement around its axis.

Decorative fire Fixed combinations of lights or lights that work through patterns and lines. Three slats attached to the hub at the same angle.

Ignition time A form of delay that indicates the time from ignition to ignition of the pyrotechnic charge. The term D. is mostly used for the time until the first launch after lighting a single fireworks or a battery.

Floor missiles A large rocket is fitted with a small one that begins to rise when the former is burned out.

subjects Fires arranged radially in a semicircle, giving off a fan-shaped fire. Half a sun from 5, 7, or 9 burners, or a bomb fan with several simultaneous launches.

- 22 - Parachute missile A round piece of taffeta with holes in the middle carries a wooden disc on 6 strings, on the lower side of which a short cylinder flame is attached. The whole thing is housed in the hat of a large rocket. If this is burned out, it ejects the parachute and ignites the Bengali flame, which, carried by the spreading piece of taffeta, slowly sinks through the air.

Color spark wheel A wheel of fire fitted with grain throwers

Farfalle A displacement for bombs or missiles, the effect of which is like a vortex of fire, the rays of which seem to emanate from a single point. These are swarmers closed on both sides, which are pierced in the middle.

Lazy sentence A slowly burning mixture. In contrast to a quick sentence.

Fire General expression for the formation of collective terms, such as spark fire, color fire, drift fire, climbing fire, first, second fire, etc.

Fire wheel Rotating fireworks such as the disc wheel, spoke wheel, ring wheel and the bar wheel. The center of the wheel can be decorated with decorations such as lance lights.

Fire pots Cylindrical fireworks, so to speak mortars made of paper or cardboard, which are loaded with swarmers, flares, frogs, etc. and to throw these sets up as soon as the detonator sleeve attached in the middle has burned out.

- 23 - Firework battery

Depending on the caliber, a fireworks battery consists of up to 1000 cardboard tubes, which are filled with ejector charges and effects ready to be fired and pyrotechnically tempted by means of stranded wire, visco, stoppine or delays. The tubes can be arranged vertically or in a fan shape. The effects (stars, comets, howling cartridges, popping cartridges, bomb beds, bombs, etc.) are usually ejected quickly one after the other, for example with a windshield wiper effect, or at intervals. Because of their easy handling and impressive effect, fireworks batteries are increasingly being used in large-scale fireworks. Fireworks batteries can be used individually, in fronts alone or with, depending on the size of the fireworks

soaring bombs are shot over.

Fixed star A spark fire sleeve, closed at the top and bottom, with evenly distributed burn holes in the circumference, which, when burning, creates a multi-beam star.

Or: Several pods are arranged in regular length after being glued together, with each sleeve only receiving a lateral, outwardly directed burn hole. The effect is similar in both cases, but better in the latter.

front The setting up of larger pieces of fireworks in a row running through the width for the purpose of simultaneous separation. Only common for larger fireworks.

- 24 - Goosefoot Compilation of three simultaneously burning sparks or Roman lights. The middle case throws its fire vertically, the two lateral ones at an angle of 45 °

Howler / Air Howler Thin cardboard or plastic sleeve, into which a special set has been pressed up to 30% of the length, so that an oscillating burn-off is generated with the column of air above. A white spark tail can also be generated by adding titanium chips.

Sleeve The tubular paper cover of the fireworks. Thin-walled, consisting of a few turns; thick-walled, 1/3 caliber thick.

Earthen Large sun gears or movable, mechanical constructions, which are decorated with lances and create moving, geometric light patterns. They are mainly found in Malta. The main part of mechanical earthening is the universal joint (= cardan joint), which was first introduced by Joseph Ghigo in 1960 for the feast of Santa Marija near Mqabba. The universal link was used to represent a six-sided star, the sides of which rotated synchronously.

Wisp A water firework; Knee missile.

caliber The size of many fireworks is differentiated according to their caliber (diameter). This applies in particular to bomb beds, bombs, Roman lights and all other fireworks in which effect bodies are driven out of a launch tube by an ejector charge (mostly black powder). The caliber is measured internationally in inches (inches, 1 "= 2.54cm). It defines the inside diameter of the tubes, the effect body itself is slightly smaller.

- 25 - For example, a 4 "caliber bomb has to fit into a mortar barrel with an inside diameter of 100mm, the bomb itself has a diameter of around 90-100mm.

Cannon strike A small cardboard box is tightly bound and glued, filled with gunpowder and provided with a detonator. The box tears with a strong bang.

cascade Standing bonfire decoration made of fires, approximating the appearance of a waterfall in the fire.

Bang cartridge The popping cartridge (also called Vogelschreck or Pyroknall) falls into the category of pyrotechnic ammunition with a caliber of 15mm. It is usually fired by means of a blank firing weapon using a suitable signal cup. The actual effect consists of a powerful bang - but there are also variants with an ascent effect in different colors (mostly green, red, yellow, white or gold), then usually referred to as tracer blast cartridges.

As the name bird scare implies, this cartridge is primarily intended to drive away pests. It is often used in agriculture (viticulture), by hunters or at airports.

Even with the big fireworks Popping cartridges are used in large numbers for amusement purposes. Usually they are bundled from bomb bed frames, 7 pieces each, and shot down with black powder previously loosely filled into the 45mm caliber mortar barrel.

- 26 - Knee missile A water firework. An empty case of the same thickness is attached to a spark fire case at an obtuse angle. When it burns, the piece makes strange movements, submerges, reappears, etc.

comet Flare, which pulls a comet's tail or spark behind it.

Comet tube Roman lights that eject comet stars at regular intervals.

Circular rotor A horizontally rotating bar wheel with revolvers at both ends, the fire of which describes wheel lines and follows each other in a circle

Crown Similar to the table rocket, a rising piece of fireworks, whereby several drifting bands are attached to the circumference of a wheel so that the wheel turns and rises upwards at the same time.

Crochet Flares or comets, which after a certain burning time split into four equal parts by a decomposing charge, which then move away from each other in a cross shape. They are commonly used in corset bombs, comet tubes, and fire pots.

load Means to fill a case with sentence, whereby the sentence is struck with ramrod and mallet.

Ramrod The cylindrical setter made of wood or metal that hits when loading. Hollow or solid, depending on the loading via the mandrel or solid.

- 27 - Beacon Fire lines or fuse connections.

Light bomb Bomb covered with flames

Flares Cylindrical bodies formed from flame fire substitute dough, fired and dried; Serving as set pieces for rockets, bombs, etc.; Part of the roman lights; Burning in the air like colored stars.

Lights or lances Thin-walled paper tubes from 6 to 32 mm in caliber and 100 to 150 mm in length are stuffed with flames and are used to represent geometric figures, names, architecture, etc. in colored fire, as well as to decorate fire wheels, lattice fires, etc.

Fuse Flammable wick, burning rope; for lighting fireworks and serving as an ignition cable; Burning in color also to present names etc. In the past more than usual today.

Multiple fire wheels Fire wheels, mounted one behind the other on the same axis, burning down at the same time or one after the other.

mortar Short tube made of cardboard or fiber-reinforced plastic, closed on one side. Used to shoot up the fireworks bombs.

Standard rate Common fireworks set; General sentence to be changed by additions

- 28 - Palm tree Larger piece of fireworks made of fire shells, which are attached to a slatted frame in such a way that when it burns the figure reminds of a palm tree.

Peacock tail Missiles suspended in a fan shape and also rising at the same time

pyramid A bigger firework. A pyramid-shaped or cone-shaped frame, which is rotated around its axis by driving fire, carries a number of burning colored lights on a helically rising winding and on the tip a spark fire sleeve or a grain thrower.

pyrotechnics Fireworks, art fireworks. Fireworks, art fireworks.

Pyrotechnic breaks If individual pieces of fireworks, for example cannon strokes, are to burn off one after the other at certain time intervals, the pilot light must be slowed down accordingly. This can be done by switching on small fires that act like time detonators and that have to burn down before the fire can be passed on. These interruptions are called pyrotechnic pauses.

rocket Hollow over the thorn or solidly hammered and conically drilled spark fire sleeve, which, attached to a rod, is thrown up by the flowing fire, burns out there, bursts with one blow or ejects flares and other accessories. - The older fireworkers also called the fire rockets and the actual rockets as flying rockets.

Missile compartments See: peacock tail

- 29 - Rocket sheaf Rockets, suspended and rising in an inverted cone shape, with their fire forming a kind of quiver or sheaf.

Whistle Crackers are bombs or the like that detonate in or just above the mortar barrel until they reach the fragmentation charge. Next the pressure / heat wave and the burning effects for the fireworkers are at risk of

Splintering if the mortar bursts. Suitable modern mortar materials, such as polyethylene (HDPE), reduce the risk

Significantly fewer splinters than, for example, with steel mortars.

Roman lights, Roman candles Flare rods, that is, elongated shells that have not been strangled at the mouth of the fire, alternately charged with a set of sparks, with flares and the associated powder output. Throwing a number of colored stars into the air one after the other

Saltpeter-sulfur 75 parts of saltpeter and 25 parts of sulfur are melted together and pulverized and used as the basis for various sets of compounds.

Blow: A bang, a shot, produced by the gunpowder ripping apart the case. Bottom line of fire, rockets, etc.

Enthusiast These are thick-walled cases charged with a rapid set of sparks, which burn for a short time and burst with a bang. Are charged with a rapid set of sparks.

- 30 - soul The conical cavity of a rocket, achieved by hitting the mandrel or drilling out a solidly charged case.

security area The S. denotes the area around the burn-off area that is closed to uninvolved persons. In addition, there must be no fire-sensitive objects in the S. (e.g. above-ground tank farms, houses with thatched roofs ...) or special precautions are necessary to protect them.

We recommend at least 20 meters.

Sun wheel - sun Radially at the same distance below and from the center of the circle attached to a disc, with a sun of 6, 8, 12 and more rays when burning.

Service life Standing time is the period between dismantling and the extinction of the effect of a pyrotechnic object.

Rise time Rise time is the time from the launch of a bomb, bombette or rocket to its dismantling in the sky. The rise time is particularly important in order to calculate the correct time for the ignition of an effect in musical fireworks so that it is visible to the audience exactly at the desired point in the music.

- 31 - Stars Collective term for different molded powder body pyrotechnic sentences, which can be seen as colored, sparkling or flashing dots and stripes when they burn down. They are the main component of most fireworks

and create the effect of e.g. bombs and missiles, Fire pots and Roman lights. The colloquial term for stars is "Leuchtstern" or "Leuchtkugel", especially with New Year's fireworks.

The size can vary from micro stars (diameter approx. 1mm) to comet stars with a diameter of over 5cm, depending on the intended use. The average size for large fireworks bouquets from rockets, bombs and fire pots is about 5-20mm. The production of stars is mostly done by hand.

There are essentially three methods:

1. Cut, cube-shaped stars (Cut Stars): The pyrotechnic composition is processed with the necessary binding agents into a "moist dough" and rolled out / spread flat (similar to a "cookie dough" when baking), then cut into cubes and dried. This is the easiest way to make stars. The finished stars have roughly the same edge lengths, but only have a relatively low breaking strength because they are not compressed.

2. Pressed / Pumped Stars: The pyrotechnic set prepared with binding agents is pressed into a two-part mold to form cylindrical stars by machine or by hand. In this way, large quantities of uniform, high-strength stars can be produced in a short time. Two different colored stars of this production method with one paper

glued together, one speaks of piped stars, which when lit on one side change color after a short time when burning. For signal ammunition luminous stars, which are sometimes also used as parasites in bomb mortars in large fireworks, one or more set layers are mechanically pressed into aluminum sleeves.

- 32 - 3. Rolled spherical stars (Rolled Stars): Spherical and multilayered stars can only be made in a rolling drum. The set that creates the effect is coated in fine powder form around the cores. The kernels can

Eg be seeds (including rapeseed) or small luminous stars or made of plastic. Several hundred cores are rolled in the drum, and loose pyrotechnic compound and a binding agent are gradually added over and over again. The stars grow on the "snowball principle" until

they have the required diameter. Layers of different pyrotechnic charges can be applied. After igniting, these stars change their color - in the reverse order of their creation. This effect is typical of Japanese Warimono and Kamuro bombs. It takes great skill to roll stars of the same size and perfectly round.

Almost all stars, whether cubic, cylindrical or spherical, require a (often multi-layered) "ignition jacket". This layer (e.g. black powder, see accentuation) is always applied last to the stars during production. It is ignited when the bomb or rocket explodes and in turn supplies enough energy for the mostly higher ignition temperatures of the pyrotechnic charges.

Stoppins Detonating threads in a plasticized paper tube, detonating cords

Table bomb Pyrotechnic object which, by means of a propellant charge made of collodion wool, ejects toys or other light objects after the fuse has burned off. The ejected objects are protected from damage by a lifting mirror. A specialty on the German market is the article "Hokus Pokus" from Nico, which instead of throwing out toys or the like, ignites a room fountain after throwing off the lid. Table bombs are suitable for indoor use and are assigned to Class I in Germany.

- 33 - Changed enthusiasts Serving for displacements, the hawkmoth can be modified in many ways, after which it then makes various movements in the air and has different effects. Treated like a little walker, it forms a falling rotating fire. If one side hole lies in a plane that forms an angle with that of the other, the hawker makes a twirling motion. If you drill it on the side only at one end, it also creates another rotating fire. These various vortex swarmers are called air swirls, bats, saucepans, etc. If the swarmor is left to burn at both ends in the usual way, it forms a double jet that turns peculiarly in the air. If the end burns with spark fire, the other with flame fire, you get a comet swarm etc.

failure All fireworks that do not function as intended are referred to as failures. Failures can pose great dangers. If fireworks of any kind have stopped, you should wait at least 15-30 minutes before approaching them. Mortars and batteries are not examined (possible hidden sparks / embers, hang fire), but filled with plenty of water.

volcano Large final effect piece of various equipment. Firemen, grain throwers, fire pots etc. are set up in concentric semicircles. A sheaf of rockets comes in the middle. First the fire and grain throwers burn, then the fire pots throw their relocations and, accompanied by cannon strikes, the rocket sheaf rises at the end.

waterfall Standing bonfire decoration made from fire; roughly imitating the appearance of a waterfall in fire.

Time fuse Bonfire case with a certain burning time, used to ignite a firework at the right moment.

- 34 - Ignition cable In principle, any commercially available cable can be used as the ignition cable. Usually copper cables with a cross-section of 0.2 to 0.6 mm² are used, as resistance plays a major role. The specific resistance of copper is 0.018 Ω x mm² / m.

1 m copper cable with a 1 mm² cross-section has a resistance of just under 0.02 Ω, longer cables (and cables with a lower cross-section) correspondingly more.

For example, 2 m with a 1 mm² cross-section and 1 m with a 0.5 mm² cross-section each have just under 0.04 Ω. Z. from other materials have correspondingly different resistances, which can be calculated from the specific resistance of the metal:

Resistance of the cable: => Resistance of the material * cable length / line cross-section

Pilot lights Thin, long sleeves of flame fire, burning slowly, resisting the wind, used to light the fireworks. A lit cigar replaces it when the fireworks area isn't too dark.

Fuses Fire lines, pilot lights, for transferring the fire from one place to another. Wicks made from multiple cotton threads are kneaded in a pulp of gunpowder and rubber water and hung to dry or stretched on frames.

Consumption The massive part of a missile's charge. The fire in the cavity throws the missile into the air with increasing speed, but it burns out quickly. The living force carries the rocket a little further; The Zehrung's spark fire is to continue until this movement ceases and the missile tips over. The length of the consumption varies according to the caliber.

- 35 - P r Or Ofe f sse ss i Oi Onn ee l le lH Hl e ee rs r tse t le ul l n nl Gu vv O nn ZZ ee r re lG l e ee nn && S.S. te t ren r een nn

The professional production of stars and decomposers mostly happens in combination with the production of bombs. Most of the time, there is massive work involved. This can be seen particularly impressively in China. Some people there work with thousands of stars and hundreds of bombs every day.

Just like in the “scene”, all the components are very finely powdered and mixed with the respective components before the actual processing.

Then the stars are rolled around a core in a rolling drum. Just like in the hobby scene, they are mostly small peas or seeds. In professional production, however, luminous stars are also repeatedly used as the core. The roller drum is also a lot bigger, mostly similar to a drum for mixing concrete.

The stars gradually grow due to the snowball principle. They are usually not rolled in one piece, but taken out of the drum again and again and dried in the open. Stars that should develop a color change effect are dried after each new layer of effect powder. Small stars can be rolled in one piece, but larger stars would take too long to dry.

And the longer a star is stored or dried, the higher the risk of unwanted reactions.

All stars have one thing in common, the ignition jacket. This is the name given to the last, outermost layer of a star. The layer, which mostly consists of black powder, is used to ignite the effect layers beneath it and is in turn ignited by the decomposing charge.

After the stars have been completed, they are filled into the respective bomb types. Especially in ball bombs, mostly only the edges are lined with a layer of effect stars. Most of the interior space is mostly filled with the decomposing charge. If several layers of stars are to be used, there is also an additional decomposing charge between the layers.

- 36 - F. aa rb r ssb yy ss te t mme bb ee i i S.S. te t ren r een nn ( (V V ee l nl i e ei cnc O lO l Or rs s yy ss te t mme ) )

The so-called Veline color system is a color system for stars, consisting of 10 chemicals. With these chemicals you can create any color you want, depending on the ratio of the individual components.

The following table shows the composition of all basic colors. All information in g.

The mixtures are to be produced by mixing all chemicals together and thickening them with a water-alcohol-dextrin solution for pressing / rolling / crushing or moistening them while rolling.

water alcohol Dextrin 75% 25% + 1-3%

Basic colors red orange green blue White Strontium carbonate 15th Calcium carbonate 15th Barium carbonate 15th Copper (II) oxide (black) 15th Barium nitrate 24 Potassium perchlorate (fine) 55 55 30th 55 55 Parlon 15th 15th 15th 15th Red Gum (fine) 9 9 5 9 Magnalium (200 mesh) 6th 6th 11 6th 5 Dextrin + 4 + 4 + 4 + 4 4th Charcoal (very fine) 20th Wood flour (very fine) 6th Iron oxide (red) 5 Potassium dichromate 5

- 37 - Even exotic colors can be easily achieved with these mixtures. All you have to do is mix the basic mixes in a certain ratio.

Exotic colors Red Orange greens Blueness Base Base Base Base yellow 45 55 Peach (pink - slightly red) 25th 60 15th Purple 15th 5 80 Maroon 85 15th magenta 55 50 turquoise 55 45 Aqua 80 20th

- 38 - Z ee r re lG l e ee r ra ldd l u ua nn G ee nn ( (Z Z uu ss aa t t kz u uz rks r )s )

The decomposition charge is ignited by a delay contained in the fireworks at the zenith of the flight path of bomb beds, bombs and rockets and causes them to explode. At the same time, the stars contained in the fireworks and other effects are ignited.

In general, normal black powder is used as a decomposing charge. Depending on the bomb type, more explosive mixtures such as H3 or KP are also suitable. Perchlorate Flash or Whistle Mix is also used for large bombs or effects that require a strong decomposition charge.

Much more important than the powder, however, is the type of decomposing charge. Most of the time the powder is also in rice grains or other small objects. Due to the large surface and the

cheap internal fire routes, a much higher one Burn rate reached.

In this way, the effects are spread as evenly as possible. Rice straw has a relatively smooth surface and can only hold the decomposition substitute poorly. That is why it is hardly used any more, although it is unrivaled cheap.

- 39 - K uu G ee l lu u nn dd ZZ yy l ln i d di een rb r Ob mm b ee nn

Bombs (Aerial Shell, Shell / s) are the most important fireworks in high-altitude fireworks. In contrast to rockets, which are propelled by a propellant according to the recoil principle during their ascent, bombs are fired from pipes (mortars).

They are driven out of the barrel by the pushing effect of a very rapidly burning, granular black powder ejection charge ("shot") and only fly on after being fired by inertia. Burning off the black powder simultaneously activates a delay detonator, which after approx. 2 to 6 seconds ignites a decomposing charge and thus the effects inside the bomb at the zenith of its trajectory.

There are two basic designs for bombs: spherical or cylinder bombs

In both variants, the caliber can be around 50 to 300mm, rarely 400mm or more; Japanese bullet bombs can be over a meter in diameter. Bomb mortars are usually made of cardboard or plastic (GRP or HDPE), less often of aluminum or steel, depending on the caliber, type and weight of the bombs. They are often put together in (wooden) frames (racks) of around 3 to 10 batteries. Steel pipes (e.g. for large-caliber cylinder bombs) are buried individually to about 2/3 of their length in the ground for safety reasons (possible splinters from a pipe crack).

In the case of Asian ball bombs (round shell, ball shell), which are always made entirely by hand, the stars are usually arranged radially symmetrically around a decomposing charge, so that they fly apart in the form of an expanding sphere. Several different star positions (Petals and Pistil) can be separated from one another by a decomposing charge and result in an image of spheres lying one inside the other. Ball bombs can be differentiated according to their structure (e.g. warimono, pokamono, figure bomb) or according to the effects they contain (chrysanthemums, peonies, palms, etc.).

- 40 - In cylinder bombs (Cylindrical Shell), as they are mainly produced in Europe and America, the effects are mostly distributed with the decomposing charge in the cylinder shell or the decomposing charge is located in a tubular cavity centrally within the effect charge. The latter arrangement creates a more even distribution of the effects in the sky of the otherwise irregular explosion shapes of cylinder bombs.

Italian fireworkers have perfected cylinder bombs: (different) effect charges (blows) are layered on top of each other in several chambers and connected to one another by short delays. After the bombs have been launched, the individual effect chambers explode at different heights. Such multi-strike bombs usually conclude with the bottom shot - a huge salute produced by a large number of bangs. In other special designs of Spanish and Italian cylinder bombs, bomb beds are often arranged, which are ejected when the bomb explodes and after a short delay ignite simultaneously (simultaneous bomb beds, stutata, cannonade) or in quick succession (e.g. Scala Otto). Depending on the size and effect, cylinder bombs (e.g.

- 41 - In the case of cylinder bombs, the retarder is traditionally not located at the bottom on the side of the discharge charge, as is the case with ball bombs, but at the opposite, upper end of the bomb. This also has a security-relevant aspect; When a cylinder bomb is fired, the closer fit in the mortar and the higher weight compared to bullet bombs result in higher gas pressures that could damage or penetrate the retarder. This is important for large-caliber bombs; the other variant is also found for smaller-caliber bombs. The connection between the retarder and the ejection charge is a stoppine line, which in Italian terminology is called Passafuoca.

- 42 - R. aa kk ee te t nne

Rockets are some of the most complex and also the most difficult to manufacture fireworks in the world. Well, with a little tinkering anyone can blow a body filled with black powder into the air, but rockets depend on something else.

Missiles should be reliable and, by the way, effective. A certain amount of work is required to achieve this.

The first missiles probably come from ancient China. There they were used very early for military, but also for ceremonial purposes. The ideal dimensions of a rocket come, who is surprised, also from China:

Accordingly, should:

1) The diameter of the nozzle must always be 1/3 of the diameter of the combustion chamber. 2) The cylindrical hollow body in the propellant (the "soul" should make up 75-80% of the length of the propellant 3) The propellant charge should be 7 times the length of the diameter of the chamber.

These ideals can only be implemented theoretically and hardly in practice. Much more important than these ideals is the right choice of fuel. A rocket can be propelled by black powder as well as a KNO3 sugar mixture. It doesn't matter which type you use, just make sure that the KNO3 sugar mixture burns much hotter and therefore requires a stronger rocket shell.

In general, this mix, also known from Smokes, is preferable to black powder. In the end, it delivers a stronger boost, a good smoke effect and is cheaper than black powder.

When using black powder, make sure that you squeeze it tightly. In this way, only the outer layer burns, which in turn generates an even thrust and no uncontrollable combustion. Otherwise, the SP just ignites, who knows New Year's Eve, knows what happens then.

- 43 - A. l lG l ele Gmm e in i een I. I.n n f Of Orm r ma t tO i nni Oee nn üü bb ee r r S.S. cc H ww aa r rp z u uz lvp l eev r r

The key element in pyrotechnics, without this mixture, almost nothing works.

When exactly it was invented is still controversial today. India, China and the Middle East are now considered possible locations. In general, however, it is the Chinese who knew the earliest possible use of this mixture. Chinese pyrotechnics products are still the best in the world today.

The powder mixture consists of potassium nitrate, charcoal and sulfur. The ratio of the substances varies, depending on the intended use.

"Normal" black powder consists of: 75% potassium nitrate 15% charcoal 10% sulfur

However, other mixtures or uses require a different ratio. It can happen that the conditions differ greatly:

60 - 85% potassium nitrate 10 - 25% charcoal 00 - 10% sulfur

If you increase the proportion of potassium nitrate, the black powder becomes stronger, but also more difficult to ignite. When increasing the With the charcoal portion, the powder burns more slowly, but more evenly. This is particularly desirable with missiles.

All fabrics should be finely powdered and absolutely dry. The best charcoal is buckthorn charcoal. Otherwise, the wood of the willow and linden can be used.

The production itself can be completed very quickly by simply mixing them together. However, this powder will only burn off very slowly. Without grinding the powder for hours in a ball mill (caution, powder is sensitive) or granulating, you won't get very far.

- 44 - S. cc H ww aa r rp z u uz lvp l eev r r ni iK Kn nn aa l kl löö l rkp r eep rn r , n, R.R. aa kk ee te t nne uu nn dd B. O mm b ee nn

Black powder is used in almost every pyrotechnic firework item. No matter if firecrackers, bombs, fountains or rockets.

In a firecracker, the gas pressure of the burning black powder is used to tear the shell. The pressure discharge creates a loud bang. The shell of commercial firecrackers is usually made of hard paper or cardboard. The ends are usually sealed with clay or a mixture of wood glue and dry waste. In the hobby scene, PVC and other plastic are also used to build the shell.

Unlike abroad, a firecracker in Germany may not contain flash powder, but a maximum of 10g black powder.

Black powder fulfills several tasks in bombs (regardless of whether they are cylinders or spheres). It can serve as a "lift" (ejector charge) to shoot the bomb into the sky through the gas pressure created. In addition, SP is used as a decomposition charge or as part of the effect charge. Depending on the purpose of the task, a certain grain size is usually used.

Fountains mostly use black powder as a “propellant”. SP is added to the actual effect powder. In a cone that is open at the top, the SP ensures better ejection than a pure effect charge.

The SP in rockets serves as a decomposing charge in effect heads, but also as a propulsion means.

- 45 - M. ee ss H - - GG r ör ßßö ee nn uu nn dd E.E. in i Hn ee i ie t n nt e

The term mesh describes the particle size of substances. Many offers on the Internet only have a mesh information next to them. But most of the time the layman cannot distinguish 5 mesh from 400 mesh.

In general, one can say that the higher the mesh, the finer the powder. We have shown a table for this.

Screen size conversion Mesh mm microns 4th 4,760 4760 6th 3,200 3200 10 2,000 2000 12 1,600 1600 14th 1,400 1400 16 1,200 1200 20th 0.711 711 25th 0.710 710 28 0.700 700 40 0.420 420 60 0.250 250 75 0.196 196 80 0.180 180 100 0.152 152 120 0.125 125 150 0.105 105 180 0.089 89 200 0.074 74 270 0.053 53 325 0.044 44 400 0.037 37 1200 0.012 12 2400 0.006 6th 4800 0.002 2

- 46 - Let's say we found an offer on potassium chlorate. 1kg potassium chlorate with an indication of 100mesh. The individual particles of the potassium chlorate are therefore a maximum of 0.150 mm in size. This is already a very fine grain size for potassium chlorate and perfect for our purposes.

Of course you can also buy chemicals that have a lower mesh specification. However, you would first have to let this become too dusty in a ball mill. When buying pyrotechnic chemicals one should make sure that they have an indication of 200 mesh around. However, the finer the fabric, the more expensive it is.

For our purposes, fabrics with a specification of 150-400mesh are completely sufficient. The 4800 mesh will probably never be achieved in-house and will not be found anywhere on the market. Metal powders such as magnesium or magnesium should always be at least 300mesh fine.

- 47 - D. ie i I.e I.n n cc H ee ss TT aa bb ee l el l l e

The sizes of bullet and cylinder bombs are often given in inches. This is the length dimension inch (symbol: “).

One inch (1 ") corresponds exactly to 2.54 cm. The details of the bombs refer to the inner diameter, not to the Outer diameter of the shell. The values in the table are not rounded.

Inches millimeter centimeter 1 25.4 2.54 2 50.8 5.08 3 76.2 7.62 4th 101.6 10.16 5 127.0 12.70 6th 152.4 15.24 7th 177.8 17.78 8th 203.2 20.32

In the amateur pyrotechnician scene, only bomb sizes up to 4 "are used. Sizes up to 8 "are extraordinary and require a great deal of experience in bomb construction and understanding.

In addition, the information in internet shops is often rounded or sometimes refers to the outside diameter. Nevertheless, it should be clear to everyone that a bowl with a rounded value of 10cm can only be a 4 ”spherical shape.

- 48 - Z üü nn dd ss cc H nn üü re r e

Regardless of whether it is visco, stoppins, strands or tape, all these names hide the pyrotechnic ignition devices. The correct name, however, is fuse. All fuses are used to ignite pyrotechnic objects or sentences. In contrast, detonators can initiate explosives and thus initiate a detonation. This is not possible with igniters without a detonator, for example, so you should pay attention to the linguistically correct form of fuse cord.

The fuses can be divided as follows:

● covered stoppins (Quickmatch, Piped Match) ● uncovered (open) stoppins (Blackmatch) ● Ignition tape (tape match, match tape, sticky match) ● Lighter wire ● waterproof stranded wire (Igniter Cord) ● Visco (Visco Fuse) ● Chinese fuse (Chinese fuse) ● Time fuse (powder fuse, Bickford Fuse) ● NC pyro cord.

Stoppins The core of the stoppins consists of a cotton or jute thread. This is soaked in a potassium nitrate solution and then pulled through a black powder pulp. After drying, this fuse burns very slowly. It can even happen that it takes 40 seconds for a meter of cord

need. This creates a moderately strong flying sparks.

However, if they are wrapped in a paper tube (covered stoppine), the combustion gases drive the burn rate up to 10m per second. This is then also called Quickmatch. But there is also the Quickmatch variant with only one SP track instead of a Blackmatch.

- 49 - Ignition tape The ignition tape has almost the same properties as Quickmatch. It burns down almost as quickly, but is cheaper and easier to distribute. Black powder (mostly fine grain) is spread out on a long piece of tape.

So that it ignites better, a piece of visco is inserted at both ends and the whole thing is folded up lengthways.

Ignition wire An ignition wire consists of a fine-grained, phlegmatized black powder core with inlaid copper wire in a thin plastic wrapping. There are red (8-12 sec / m) and yellow (23 sec / m) strands.

It is very often used to induce fireworks (eg for bomb beds), but is very sensitive to moisture due to the black powder and the non-water-repellent, porous covering. It has BAM approval as a kind of ignition device in the "ZA" category (ignition strands) and can therefore be purchased by anyone over the age of 18.

- 50 - Plastic Igniter Cord (PIC) These are completely waterproof strands with different burn rates: blue "very slow" : 180 sec / m, green "slow" : 40 sec / m brown "almost" : 3.3 sec / m

However, these do not have a black powder soul, but one Plasticine-like pyrotechnic mass (with copper wire in the center) in one thin, single-layer plastic hose. Despite the exact burning speed and the simple handling, they are no longer manufactured. The reason for this is likely to be harmful to health, as some of these strands were made with lead compounds.

Visco Visco is a thin green strand with a very fine black powder core without wire, which is used in particular in New Year's Eve fireworks and imported goods from China as a lighting and delaying agent. It can have slightly water-repellent properties due to a thin coating of paint. There are different burning speeds (e.g. 30 sec / m) and depending on

Manufacturer / delivery form (pieces, reels) can have a BAM approval as an ignition device in the ZZP category (fuses for pyrotechnic purposes).

China fuse The China fuse is made of tissue paper that is twisted into thin cords with a little fine black powder. It is mainly still used for bang-bang chains, with New Year's fireworks it is more and more replaced by the safer visco.

- 51 - Time fuse A time fuse (safety fuse, powder fuse, powder fuse) is similar in structure to a stranded wire. The powder core is finer-grained and the sheathing consists of dense, single to triple textile and plastic tubing and prevents an open flame. It is almost waterproof, its burning time must be approx. 120 sec / m. It appears in the fireworks only as a delay.

Pyro cords Pyro cords are nitrided cotton threads which, due to their fire hazard, are usually transported moist (e.g. in water and / or alcohol) and dried before use. They are often used indoors as gun cotton or collodion wool, but so far have not been approved by BAM.

The flying sparks as a problem Especially with Blackmatch, you can quickly see the crucial problem, the strong flying sparks. Flying sparks from the fuse can ignite open charges too early or penetrate the bags of fireballs and cause them to burst.

To solve this problem, you can of course wrap the fuse with tape or paper. This method is only suboptimal, however, because the fuse tends to turn into a piece of Quickmatch.

It is safer and now standard, to put the fuse in a hose. This should be at least 4-5 times the diameter of the fuse. This keeps the sparks under control and at the same time leaves enough space for the combustion gases to escape safely and slowly.

- 52 - K r ar fa fp t a at p pp ie i re r

Kraft paper is actually nothing more than brown wrapping paper, which many people know from shopping bags. This strong but cheap material is the basis for most fireworks items. It comes in large rolls and in various strengths and can either be pure or processed.

Most pyrotechnic sources refer to the strength of wrapping paper, which is the lbs value.

However, the pound inch system is only popular in the English speaking part of the world. In the European area one speaks of the G / M system

(Grams per square meter).

Like any other pyrotechnic article, you can buy kraft paper in all possible shapes and variations. Some types are similar to adhesive tape and save you having to touch one

Adhesive paste. Others are reinforced with additional fibers.

Paper weight Paper weight Thickness (inch) Strength (lbs) (G / M) (Millimeter) 30th 51 0.003 0.08 40 68 0.004 0.10 50 85 0.005 0.13 60 102 0.006 0.15 70 119 0.007 0.18 80 136 0.008 0.20 90 153 0.009 0.23

Conversion factor Conversion factor to (G / M) after lbs 1,695 0.59

- 53 - V uu lk l aak nn ee

Conical (widening towards the bottom) fountain. Due to the increasing amount of the compound, the increasing effect (spark height and density) during the burn is typical for volcanoes.

Some volcanoes have additional effects, for example colored or crackling micro-stars, which are either mixed with the spark composition or, as a final blow, end the volcano with a star bouquet (star sheaf) (surprise volcano). Large fireworks and

New Year's Eve fireworks volcanoes usually have an open gunpowder lighting system with a fuse on the tip, while those for stage pyrotechnics are usually prepared for electrical lighting.

The products are often named after real volcanoes (eg Super Etna or Silver Vesuvius). Especially in classes I and II there are articles that have the word volcano in the sales name, but only contain one or more cylindrical effect bodies (fountains, Roman lights) in a conical cardboard cover and thus do not become stronger during the burn.

- 54 - G ee ss ee t t ze ,z , E.tE. t le le t rtn re unu nn dd OO r re t t e

Almost every experiment in the pyrotechnic field falls under a law, regardless of whether it is the chemical or explosives law. Normally, nobody cares if you let 1g of black powder burn down in your own cellar or if you test flash unnoticed in an abandoned gravel pit.

This is what many think as they experiment with the materials. The saying “as long as nobody sees it is not illegal” does not apply in Germany. One should always be aware of this fact and act accordingly.

If there is a bang somewhere in the forest and you are checked with a bag or other chemicals that are kept separate from each other, you will usually be charged anyway; "Suspicion of violation of X" is what they call it in police circles. Even if you are acquitted later for lack of evidence, this is always expensive and time-consuming.

Therefore, time and place should always be chosen well. The dark is probably best. After midnight, for example, there are not even dog owners out and about and you can try everything on the nearby sports field or field. We don't need to mention the advantage of effects at night.

The place itself should be open and only weakly or not at all overgrown. Sports fields, fields, market places or schoolyards are probably best. Some “experts” have already said that a forest parking lot is big enough. However, they ignored the sparks from the shells that set the treetops on fire.

So, use open spaces and the darkness!

Pretty much anything can go wrong when it comes to parents. Before revealing yourself to your parents, you should also be sure that they are showing some understanding or even interested.

Hiding your hobby is a simple method, but it also carries a great risk. If you get caught and the police are at the door, the breach of trust with your own parents is immense.

- 55 - S. ic i Hc ee r Hr eHe i i -t te - in i GnG r Or ßOß ee ss TT H ee mm a ! !

Your own safety and the safety of people and animals in the vicinity is our top priority. None of us want to have an accident with the substances and should be fair enough not to endanger others.

To ensure this safety, however, you need the right protective equipment. Of course it is clear that beginners cannot afford the equipment of the professionals. Nevertheless, everyone should have basic safety items and follow the following rules:

General rules for pyrotechnics and the hobby

1) Prepare everything and ensure peace and quiet before starting 2) Remove all sources of heat or sparks (unless they are required) 3) Put on gloves, respiratory protection and hearing protection 4) Have a bucket with water or a fire blanket ready 5) Switch on the trigger or open the window slightly 6) Work carefully and with soul

With these rules, general safety is largely regulated. A fire blanket or a bucket of water may seem a bit excessive to many, but in an emergency, these things are life-saving.

And that brings us to the items that every amateur pyrotechnician should have in the house. While beginners can mostly fall back on household items, professionals should make an effort to buy certain items.

If you want to save money, you should rely on the principle of building it yourself. Some homemade ball mills come close to the quality of commercial ones.

- 56 - Equipment for beginners

1) Gloves, respiratory protection, hearing protection, safety glasses 2) pots, pans, stovetop (in the kitchen) 3) glasses, bowls (glass or ceramic) 4) mortar, coffee grinder 5) Cardboard boxes (for storing chemicals and equipment)

Equipment for advanced users

1) Gloves, respiratory protection, protective goggles, hearing protection => or face mask 2) Own work space / room 3) Pots, pans, heating plate (single or double plate) 4) sieves 5) beakers, bowls (glass) 6) Mortar, coffee grinder, hand blender, homemade ball mill 7) Small closet for storing chemicals and equipment

Equipment for professionals

1) Gloves, NBC protective mask (additional: special dust filter) 2) Your own room or garden shed to work 3) Pots, pans, heating plate (single or double plate) 4) Sieves, graters, baking sheets 5) beakers, flasks, bowls, 6) Extraction or other exhaust air 7) Mortar, coffee grinder, homemade or purchased ball mill 8) Large closet, chemicals, equipment, projects etc. are stored separately from each other

- 57 - P r ar kka t ts i c ci HHs ee PP yy r Or Ote t cce HH nn i ki k

E. in i nle l ie iu t n nt Gu

The practical pyrotechnics, a wide field with enough areas for beginners and professionals. Before you start, you should once again look at the basic rules:

1) Prepare everything and ensure peace and quiet before starting 2) Remove all sources of heat or sparks (unless they are required) 3) Put on gloves, respiratory protection and hearing protection 4) Have a bucket with water or a fire blanket ready 5) Switch on the trigger or open the window slightly 6) Work carefully and with soul

These rules and instructions should not be blindly followed. It is especially important to turn on your own mind. If you don't understand a step, think about what you want to do first or ask hobby colleagues for advice.

It doesn't cost anything to ask, even if we have written the instructions so that everyone should understand them. Seasoned members of the scene may have already tried most of them and should be happy to share their experiences.

We start here of course with the basics, black powder and its relatives. Even as an absolute beginner you don't have to start with it. A direct entry into the field of flash powder is of course also possible.

In this sense, have fun and good luck!

- 58 - S. cc HH ww aa r zr zpp u l vl ve r ru u n d ss ee i ni ne VV e r wr w aa n d t st scc HH aa f f t t

D. aa ss M.M. is i csc H ee nn vv O nn ee mm p f fn i d di ln lc iH i eec nn S.S. tO t Of fe f nn f e

Before you start manufacturing black powder or flash powder, you should be aware of the risks involved in manufacturing it. Accidents when chemicals are mixed or pulverized are particularly popular.

For one thing, you should always pulverize the chemicals you need individually, and if you don't have enough mortar available, clean the object after each chemical.

For example, it has happened before that someone did not clean their mortar after pulverizing potassium chlorate. After that someone just put phosphorus in the mortar to pulverize it. The result was a good reaction of the chlorate residues with the phosphorus when he tried to grind it. Luckily, no one got hurt.

And even if all materials are fine as dust, accidents often occur when they are mixed. The reason for this is often too much strength and too little time. In general, pyrotechnic mixtures should not be "stirred" with a "stick" or anything else (keyword: sensitivity to friction)

The methods we have presented here are much safer. They are easy to carry out and usually hardly cost more time than more brutal methods.

Here we assume that all chemicals have been pulverized beforehand were!

- 59 - ► Method 1 seven

Sifting is one of the simplest but unfortunately most time-consuming types of mixing. All you need is a sieve and a plastic tray that you put underneath.

All substances are simply poured carefully on top of each other in a very fine sieve. Then the sieve is gently swiveled until all of the powder has fallen into the plastic container below.

This process is repeated until the chemicals (e.g. coal and sulfur) can no longer be seen individually. Usually this takes at least 12 runs, most of them more.

Here's how black powder was made this way:

- 60 - ► Swivel method 2

The swivel method is probably the most popular and fastest type of mixing. In addition, you only need a beaker or a plastic container.

The powdered chemicals are all added to the jar and mixed together by gently swirling. After about 2 - 3 minutes swirling (change direction often), you already have a perfectly mixed powder.

With this method, however, particles of the chemicals are automatically transported through the air. The vessel should therefore be easy to close. If not, a cloth or newspaper that is stretched over the edge of the glass helps.

The particles are of course not immediately deadly, but if you keep them dust-fine for years (sometimes a few weeks / months is enough) Inhaling particles can make you sick!

So cover / close the vessel, eyes and breathing protection are yes duty anyway!

- 61 - ► Fold method 3

This method is often used by beginners for particularly sensitive fabrics. All you need is a sheet of paper.

This is folded once lengthways and optionally again wide (depending on how you get along with it). Then the chemicals are placed on the sheet and carefully folded (not completely, but only half-fold) and placed on top of each other again and again.

This procedure is repeated for about 5 minutes. After that a uniform powder should already have formed.

► Method 4 wet method (only for stars?)

This method is suitable for extremely delicate fabrics and is also very good for making stars. A small amount of alcohol / spirit is poured into a vessel and the individual substances are stirred in one after the other. The amount of liquid used is usually already in the instructions for the stars. If not, add a little less alcohol to the container first, and if the porridge becomes too "lumpy", pour more.

After stirring for about 5 minutes, the resulting pulp is either dried on a large surface or processed into stars.

When the stars are pumped, the pulp can simply be filled into a syringe or something similar and pressed. The result is finished cylinder-shaped stars that still have to dry.

For rolled stars and other uses, the pulp must first be dried and then very carefully pulverized (not in the mortar).

- 62 - Authors comment This mixing method, standardized for pumped stars, works e.g. also with flash powders. However, when the pulp was later pulverized, there were repeated reactions.

We therefore advise against producing powder-fine flash in this way. It is possible, but the danger outweighs the benefit. So for normal flash it is better to powder all fabrics finely beforehand and then simply mix them.

Another side is flash granulate. Instead of powdering the pulp, you can refine it with dextrin and carefully granulate it through a sieve. Flash granulate has interesting properties and it is worthwhile to simply try it out with the insensitive potassium permangant flash variety.

- 63 - S. cc H ww aa r rp z u uz lvp l eev r r ( ( Ot ctc rkk r ee O nn ) )

No heat is allowed in the dry production of black powder or sources of sparks are nearby!

The original black powder, which is also known from New Year's Eve crackers, always consists of the 3 chemicals potassium nitrate, sulfur and charcoal. Depending on the type of use, the ratio of the individual substances or the proportion of additives can vary.

However, you should be aware that it is almost impossible to get to the industrially produced black powder with homemade powder. But for our purposes it is completely sufficient

relationship

Potassium nitrate + Charcoal + sulfur 75% 15% 10%

Materials - mortar, coffee grinder etc. - beakers - Libra

Chemicals - 75g potassium nitrate - 15g charcoal - 10g sulfur

Manufacturing 1) All chemicals are carefully weighed and individually ground in a mortar or similar. The chemicals should be fine as dust or talcum for further use.

2) Then the potassium nitrate and the charcoal are placed in a beaker and mixed using the swivel method (see “Mixing sensitive substances”).

- 64 - 3) Then the remaining sulfur is added and introduced into the powder using the same method.

When mixing the substances you should take your time, the better it is are mixed together, the faster the powder goes!

The black powder would then be ready for further use in fireworks. The dry production of black powder is therefore relatively easy and harmless. The wet method is more complex, but the result is a significantly faster black powder.

► What other mixes are there?

As already mentioned, black powder can be quickly and easily optimized for other areas of application by changing the individual proportions or adding additives.

Normal black powder, for example, is stronger with a higher nitrate content (80-82%), but also harder to ignite. Additives such as metal powder make the powder particularly strong and usually even easier to ignite, but then you have already reached the level of the flash powder.

But there are also other, already patented mixtures:

Martinsen's explosive powder number 1 No. 2 No. 3 Potassium nitrate 70 64 56 sulfur 12 12 22nd Lamp soot 5 3 3 sawdust 13th 21st 29 Iron sulfate 2 3 5

- 65 - Manufacturing 1) The iron sulfate is dissolved in water.

2) Then the solution is heated to 10 ° C.

3) The remaining substances are added with constant stirring.

4) Now the whole thing just has to be cooled down while stirring constantly and dried as well as possible.

Poch's explosive powder Potassium nitrate 68 sulfur 12 Sodium nitrate 3 Oak bark 3 Barium nitrate 3 sawdust 5 Charcoal 6th

Manufacturing 1) Simply powder all substances and mix together.

Brise Rocs Potassium nitrate 40 sulfur 15th Sodium nitrate 20th sawdust 15th salt 1

Manufacturing 1) Simply powder all substances and mix together.

- 66 - Pyrolite number 1 No. 2 Potassium nitrate 67.5 50.5 sulfur 12 12 Charcoal 1.5 sawdust 12.5 11 Sodium nitrate 16

Manufacturing 1) Barium nitrate and sodium nitrate are dissolved in hot water.

2) The sawdust and oak bark are then stirred in and the mass is dried

3) As soon as the mass has dried, it is pulverized together with the remaining substances and mixed together thoroughly.

- 67 - S. cc H ww aa r rp z u uz lvp l eev r r n( ( aa n ss ss ) )

The better and at the same time safer production method of black powder is the wet method. Black powder made this way is significantly more powerful than that of the dry method.

By using water and alcohol, the saltpetre in particular can better settle on the charcoal. However, this method is much more complex and a little more expensive. But if you need very good black powder (e.g. for bullet and cylinder bombs), you cannot avoid this step.

The normal ratio (75/15/10) is used, so let's apply that Do the same for the right amount of 100g!

All fabrics must of course be individually pulverized beforehand, the finer the better!

materials - heating plate - Cooking pot - plastic containers - Flat surface (Pizza plate also works) - stir stick (Wood preferred, plastic optional) (towel, - Cloth linen cloth) - thermometer

Chemicals - 75g potassium nitrate - 15g charcoal - 10g sulfur - 2g of dextrin (optional, only when granulating) (alcohol) - 250ml water - 250ml of alcohol

- 68 - Manufacturing 1) 250ml of water are added to the saucepan. In addition there are potassium nitrate, charcoal and sulfur. You should take your time when stirring.

If you want to granulate the black powder later, you should add 2g Add dextrin!

2) Then we put the pot on the stove and heat the mixture to boiling temperature. A temperature of 80-90 ° C is perfect.

Stir regularly with a stirring stick! The pot is made of hot metal, dry parts of the mixture could ignite, so always keep everything wet

3) The whole thing is boiled down until it forms a thin “porridge”. The pot is removed from the stove and placed under a hood or somewhere in the open (do not let it get cold).

4) When the pot is in a safe place, 250ml of the alcohol is poured into the mixture.

Be sure to put in with your arm outstretched and never your head hold over the pot. The resulting alcohol vapors blow themselves adult people around ... we tested it!

The vapors dissipate after a few seconds. Now you have to stir vigorously quickly and put the pot outside to cool down for 5 minutes.

5) Now the pulp is poured onto the cloth, wrapped and pressed until no more liquid escapes.

6) The now still moist dough is rolled out on a large, flat surface. 1-2cm thick are perfect.

To granulate, simply pass the lump of dough through a sieve!

The plate with the porridge should be placed on a low-heat heater or in sunlight. If the drying time is longer than 4 hours, the powder will weaken over time.

7) The granulate is ready for use immediately after drying, the pulp layer must be ground to powder after drying.

- 69 - D. aa ss KK öö rn r een nn uu nn dd GG ra r nna uu l le i rie re n ne

We have already got to know the principle of black powder granulation (also known as granulation). It significantly increases the burning rate. In this chapter we don't want to repeat the principle again, but rather clarify questions that keep coming up. We also go into the production of the stars. So it's a more theoretical chapter with practical tips.

Spitirus, ethanol or denatured alcohol - what should you take now? Generally there is not much difference. Alcohol-ethanol is generally hidden behind all the names. But you should stick with it and not try out daring mixtures with gasoline or even nitromethane.

My denatured alcohol stinks, but my friend's doesn't - why? Each brand of denatured alcohol behaves differently. Some brands have a terrible smell and the smell can almost knock you away, while others are almost odorless. If you don't want the “scent” in your home, you should work outside.

I mixed the dough according to the instructions, but it still looks too firm / moist - why?

Depending on the quality of the constituents of the black powder used, the proportions of the water / alcohol / dextrin mixture or their amount can change. It is best to always make a little more of the mixture.

The black powder pulp always gets too dry or too wet - what should you do?

Mixing a really perfect SP porridge takes a lot of practice. In the first few attempts, hardly anyone will succeed perfectly.

If the dough is too dry, moisten a little more. If it is too wet, just let it stand in the air for a few minutes or stir in a little more powder. But dough that is too moist can also be pressed / pumped.

- 70 - Why does my black powder crumble after granulating? Too little dextrin was probably used. For 100g black powder, 2g dextrin is normally used. To be on the safe side, you should take 3-4g of dextrin next time.

It takes too long to dry the granules / stars in the air - isn't it faster too?

The granules or stars are placed on a piece of newspaper and are dried in a warm / dry attic or in a drying cabinet. It just couldn't be better.

Never use a fire, oven or hairdryer out of impatience. All of this has already been tried and not repeated. Those who use such methods risk their life and the lives of others.

- 71 - K nn aa l pl l u ul lpv l eev r r (Y ( Yee l lO l wlw OPP O ww dd ee r r ) )

Pop powder, also called yellow powder, is basically nothing more than a modified form of black powder. Instead of charcoal, potash is used here. The result is a powder mixture that burns 3 times as fast in normal form as black powder, but also has some disadvantages.

The powder can be ignited with an open flame or a fuse, but then only burns and smokes. Even with strong damming, you don't get an explosion like you can see with SP firecrackers.

By adding magnesium or magnesium you achieve a significantly better reaction, but still no comparison to black powder.

But as soon as you ignite it properly, even small amounts of 0.5 g explode with a big bang. The easiest way to do this is to pour such a quantity onto a strip of aluminum foil and hold it tightly over a tea light with a pair of tongs (min. As soon as a small part of the powder "melts", a reaction occurs.

So the main question is how do you ignite the powder and what should the firecracker look like? We offer the answer to this in the section "Ignition models".

The powder loses strength very quickly due to the hygroscopic properties of potassium nitrate and pottasch, so it should be done right away be used!

The bang is by no means the same as that of a good flash!

Even with our ignition methods, the desired success is not always achieved. However, the powder is for testing and practice purposes best for!

- 72 - benefits - Even the normal form burns off faster than SP - Generates a small bang, even without damming - No charcoal dust - Slightly cheaper

disadvantage - Potash is very water-attracting - No popping effect with an open flame / fuse - ignition complicated and cumbersome

relationship

Percentage ownership % Share in g Potassium nitrate 54 Potassium nitrate 5.4 Potash 27 Potash 2.7 sulfur 19th sulfur 1.9

However, rounded weights also result in an excellent powder:

Share in g Potassium nitrate 5 Potash 3 sulfur 2

- 73 - ► Normal

materials - mortar / coffee grinder etc. - Libra - beakers

Chemicals - potassium nitrate (KNO3) - potash (K2CO3) - sulfur

Manufacturing 1) Potassium nitrate and potash are put together in a mortar or coffee grinder and are ground to powder form. Through this process, the two powders should be sufficiently mixed with one another.

2) Then the sulfur is powdered separately and then put into a beaker together with the KNO3-K2CO3 mixture.

3) Lastly, the glass is swirled for at least 5 minutes to allow the chemicals to carefully combine. The result is a fine, yellow powder.

- 74 - ► Strong The production of the strong cracking powder only differs in one small step, the melting together of potassium nitrate and potash. The strong mixture is said to burn 8.5 times as fast as normal black powder.

With this method one can commit the iniquity of grinding the finished powder in a mortar. It is insensitive enough not to react!

However, this method must never be used with other powders will!

materials - mortar / coffee grinder etc. - Libra - beakers - stove top

Chemicals - potassium nitrate (KNO3) - potash (K2CO3) - sulfur

Manufacturing 1) Potassium nitrate and potash are put together in a mortar or coffee grinder and are ground to powder form. Through this process, the two powders should be sufficiently mixed with one another.

The sulfur is powdered separately

2) Now the mixture is melted and the previously finely powdered sulfur is added. Stir for another 5 minutes and allow the mixture to cool / harden.

3) The solid mixture is powdered again in the mortar and is then immediately ready for use.

- 75 - ► Ignition models

As already mentioned in the introduction, a small part of the powder has to melt before it reacts. A firecracker principle of a normal firecracker therefore fails. In theory it is also possible to ignite the powder with a strong and hot flash mixture, but then the flash could also be used like that.

Model 1 - (pea model) materials - aluminum foil - Matches (optional)

You cut a piece of aluminum foil into a square shape, pile the cracking powder in the middle and turn the whole thing into a kind of crackling pea.

- 76 - This packet can now be ignited simply by placing it on the end of a couple of matches and lighting them. The time until ignition is 10 for normal woods

Fireplace matches a proud 20-30 seconds. If the matches run out beforehand, they can also be briefly immersed in gasoline, but then they burn down much faster. This type of ignition is quite cumbersome.

Small amounts (crack pea size) can also simply be thrown into a campfire. If the aluminum peas are tight, a small explosion occurs after a few seconds, a nice effect at outdoor parties. However, small embers fly out of the fire, so do not place any easily flammable items in the immediate vicinity.

Model 2 - (Extended Pea Model) materials - aluminum foil - paper (Handkerchiefs, kitchen paper, toilet paper) - Cord / package cord

- 77 - 1) First you build a "pea" again and make sure that the aluminum foil has been twisted properly. Later it is important that the pea is really dense.

2) Then wrap the pea with a neat layer of paper and fasten it with the parcel string. The whole thing should now look like a white "ball".

3) If you want to throw the "ball" a long way later, you should tie a string to the cord.

To ignite this ball, a bit of gasoline or other flammable liquids is dripped onto the ball. The paper should soak up the gasoline on each side. The ball continues to burn if you throw it away on the string.

As soon as the ball burns it should be thrown away or kicked / rolled away immediately. Most of the time it only takes 10 seconds to Explosion is coming!

- 78 - B. l l i i kt tn nz a az lk pl l u ul lpv l eev r r (F. ( F.la l ssa H ) )

► The most famous flash sentences

Potassium Nitrate - Magnesium / Aluminum The simplest and most famous of all flash mixes. It consists of potassium nitrate (KNO3) and a metal powder (aluminum, magnesium, magnalium).

Basic ratio: Potassium nitrate + metal powder (2) (1)

To make this mixture more effective, additives such as sulfur or charcoal can be added. In the next equation, we've increased the ratio for clarity

So: Potassium nitrate + metal powder + additive (4) (2) (1)

(Ratio has been increased here for better clarity)

Production: Potassium nitrate and the additive are each separately in the Mortar to be ground to a fine powder. After that, the potassium nitrate and metal powder are mixed by gently shaking them. Then there is the addition.

The mixture is ignited like any other by a fuse. There should be no sources of sparks or fire during manufacture.

- 79 - Potassium Permangant - Magnalium That's right, we prefer magnalium. On the one hand because of the better availability and lower costs. In general, all other metal powders also work. You have to decide for yourself whether you want to take magnesium, aluminum, etc., a matter of taste.

Basic ratio: potassium permangant + metal powder + sulfur (4) (2) (1)

This mixture is much stronger than the mixture above. She reacts with a piercing bang and a blinding flash of light.

Production: All substances should be available as a fine powder. Otherwise grind again individually in a mortar. Never mix everything together and then grind in a mortar! Risk of reaction!

Even small amounts of 4-7g, if well insulated, put absolutely every Polish firecracker in the shade

Disadvantage: Burning creates traces of brown stone. That can ever go in the eye ... but who is so close to the things that he could be hit?

The components should be stored dry. In addition, the mixture does not have a long shelf life (1-1.5 weeks).

- 80 - Potassium perchlorate - aluminum This mix is far stronger than the two previous ones. Allegedly, the famous "Starschreck" or "Vogelschreck" only contain potassium perchlorate and aluminum.

Basic ratio: potassium perchlorate + metal powder (2) (1)

Production: Both components must be in powder form. In They are mixed in a plastic container by swirling them very carefully. Do not store under any circumstances (see "Experience reports")

Disadvantage: Since a perchlorate is used here, there is a higher one Sensitivity to shock and friction.

- 81 - ► Warning notices

! Magnesium-based flash powders are more sensitive and dangerous than those made with aluminum. Therefore, with magnesium is always with special Proceed with caution.

! Chlorate and sulfur / sulfide mixtures are known for their Sensitivity to shock, sparks and friction.

! Chlorate lightning mixtures decompose faster than perchlorate lightning mixtures and are more sensitive to vibrations, sparks and Friction.

! Chlorate and red phosphorus mixtures are extremely sensitive and extremely dangerous. It can even with the smallest vibrations and even explode while mixing.

! Calcium (metallic) and calcium hydride react exothermically with water and form hydrogen. Mixtures with calcium and calcium hydride should be sealed against moisture and should not be stored.

! Potassium permanganate mixtures are as sensitive as they are unstable. This Mixtures should never be stored.

! Barium peroxide is unstable and tends to break down spontaneously. Lightning mixes of barium peroxide should not be stored under any circumstances. Extreme caution is required when working with such mixtures.

! Nitrate / aluminum or magnesium mixtures can develop heat even in the basic state, which can lead to spontaneous inflammation. 1% to 2% boric acid should be added to this

to prevent.

! Barium chlorate is unstable and tends to decompose spontaneously. Lightning mixes of barium chlorate should not be stored under any circumstances and extreme care should be taken in handling with such mixtures.

! Magnesium / Teflon blends are known to become spontaneous ignite.

- 82 - ► Flash mixes

Unbelievable, so many mixes!

Most of them cannot be used in our normal everyday life (too expensive, time-consuming). Nevertheless, this list, now known everywhere, invites you to experiment.

Have fun!

Perchlorate / Magnesium lightning powder

Potassium perchlorate 50 Magnalium, -325mesh 50

Perchlorate / aluminum lightning powder I

Surname European European US US US Flash # 1 # 2 # 1 # 2 # 3 Thunder # 1

Potassium perchlorate 66 70 67 63 60 50 60.8 Aluminum, ------26.1 German black Aluminum, dark 34 30th 17th 27 25th 23 - pyro sulfur - - 16 10 - - 8.7

Antimony trisulfide - - - - 15th 27 - Titanium sponge ------4.3 (or cookies) Aerosil * ------0.1 * highly dispersed silicon dioxide

- 83 - Perchlorate / aluminum lightning powder II

Surname Thunder Thunder granny granny Rozzi # 3 # 4 formula formula formula

Potassium perchlorate 64 72 62 62.5 64 50 Aluminum, dark 23 28 11 12.5 18th 31 pyro Aluminum, - - - 23 - 18th - 325mesh

sulfur 13th - 4th 25th - 3

Antimony trisulfide - - - - - 16

Perchlorate / aluminum flash powder III

Surname Cba Rozzui Orl granny formula formula formula formula

Potassium perchlorate 50 48 61.5 57 56 62.6 Aluminum, dark 25th 36 23 11.5 31 11.2 pyro

sulfur 25th - - 28.5 13th 11.2 Charcoal - - - 3 - -

Antimony trisulfide - 16 15.5 - - -

Perchlorate / aluminum lightning powder IV

Surname Craig hit patent Mil-spec formul Formul 1,253,59 M-80 a a 7th simulato r

Potassium perchlorate 58 61.5 40 25th 47 46 64

Potash nitrate - - - 25th - - -

sulfur - - 10 25th 3 14th 10

Antimony trisulfide - 15.5 3 - 35 - 3.5 Aluminum, dark 42 23 47 25th 15th 40 22.5 pyro

- 84 - Perchlorate / aluminum lightning powder V

Surname Titanium Titanium Titanium Tenge salute salute salute formula

Potassium perchlorate 40 53 66 66 66 55

sulfur 20th 16 - - 4th 14th

Antimony trisulfide - - 16.5 - - - Aluminum, dark 40 31 16.5 8th 8th 14th pyro Aluminum, bright Dandruff or - - - 26th 22nd - Flakes

+ (8- titanium - + (8-15) + (8-15) - - 15) Bran (or Sawdust or - - - - - 17th Wheat pods)

Perchlorate / nitrate / aluminum lightning powder

Surname Young / Hitt Craig formula formula

Potassium perchlorate 37 39 17th 43 25th 30th

Barium nitrate 19th 23 43 21st 25th 30th

sulfur 14th 2 6th - 25th -

Antimony trisulfide 5 26th 3 - - - Aluminum, dark 25th - 31 36 25th 40 pyro

- 85 - Perchlorate / magnesium flash powder

Surname

Potassium perchlorate 38 45 50 40 40 70 Magnesium, fine 57 50 50 34 35 12

Aluminum, dark pyro - - - 26th 25th 18th

Graphite powder 5 - - - - -

Potassium dichromate - 5 - - - -

Cab-O-Sil * - - - - + 0.1 - * Cab-O-Sil presumably like Aerosil, highly dispersed silicon dioxide

Perchlorate-based flash powders I

Surname Craig Hit formul formul a a

Potassium perchlorate 57 38 78 70 55 84 55 34

Barium nitrate - 23 ------

sulfur 38 2 19th - 18th - 10 -

Antimony trisulfide - 25th - - 27 - 35 -

Sodium salicylate - - - 30th - - - - sawdust 5 ------

rosin - 10 - - - 8th - 33

benzene - - 3 - - - - - Meal - 2 ------

Charcoal - - - - - 8th - 33

paraffin - - + 0.1 - - - - -

- 86 - Perchlorate-based lightning powder II

Surname Hitt formula

Potassium perchlorate 55 59

sulfur 3 30th

Antimony trisulfide 42 - Lamp soot (or carbon) - 11

MAG / 55 lightning powder

Surname Standard MAG / 55 super bright MAG / 55

Potassium perchlorate 64 60

Aluminum, German black 15th 15th

Aluminum, american dark 5 -

Aluminum, light flakes 5 5

Aluminum, atomized 1 -

Magnesium, 400mesh 5 10

Magnesium, 200mesh 5 10

Cab-O-Sil * + 2 + 2

Wood flour + 2 + 2

Potassium dichromate + 1 + 1 * Cab-O-Sil presumably like Aerosil, highly dispersed silicon dioxide

- 87 - Photo flash I.

Surname 1899 mixture 706-185 706-185

Potassium perchlorate - - 40 - -

Barium nitrate - 54.5 - - -

Ammonium nitrate 6th - - - - sulfur - - - - 6.5

Aluminum, flakes 70.5 - - - -

Magnalium, fine - 45.5 60 - - Magnesium, fine - - - 91 33

Lithium carbonate - - - 4.5 -

Calcium carbonate - - - 4.5 -

Lycopodium powder 23.5 - - - - Beef kidney fat - - - - 11.5

Photo flash II

Surname 1899 patent 1899 mixture 3,674,411 mixture

Potassium perchlorate 67 67 67 24.85 60

Aluminum, flakes 25th - 27 - -

Magnesium, fine - 33 - - 30th

Titanium powder - - - 48.01 - sulfur - - - 0.03 -

Antimony trisulfide - - - - 10 red phosphorus - - - 24.85 -

Cane sugar 8th - 6th - -

Magnesium oxide - - - 0.66 - Sodium lignosulfonate - - - 0.23 - Sodium 2- - - - 0.03 - ethylhexyl sulfate

Trichlorophenol - - - 0.04 - Hydroxyethyl - - - 1.3 - cellulose

- 88 - Photo flash III

Surname patent 1899 # 50 2,098,341 mixture

Potassium perchlorate - - - - 80 24

Strontium perchlorate - 20th - - - -

Potassium chlorate - - - - - 14th

Potassium permanganate - - 40 - - -

Barium nitrate - - - 54.5 - 34

Barium peroxide - - 20th - - -

Aluminum, flakes 12.5 - - + 4 - - Magnesium, fine 54 - 40 - - 28 Magnalium, fine - - - 45.5 - - Calcium / magnesium - 80 - - - - 75/25

Calcium (metallic) - - - - 20th -

Calcium carbonate 21st - - - - -

Magnesium oxide 4.5 - - - - -

Silica 8th - - - - -

Photo flash IV

Surname 706- M46 photoflash # 49 # 48 Pfp 054 185 Bomb

Potassium perchlorate - 30th 40 50 49 - 60 Barium nitrate 60 30th - - - (21µ)

Aluminum, flakes 10 40 26th 20 31 9 (1.4µ) Aluminum, 31 30th - - - - atomized (16µ) Magnesium, fine - - 34 - - - Calcium (metallic) - - - 30 - -

Calcium fluoride - - - - 20 -

- 89 - Photo flash V

Surname # 47 Pfp 648 Pfp Pfp Pfp Pfp Pfp 661 673 675 679 685

Potassium perchlorate 60 - - 67 80 - -

Sodium perchlorate - - 15th - - 57 - 70 Strontium nitrate ------(30µ) 50 Barium nitrate ------(147µ) Aluminum, flakes 40 50 - - - 43 -

Aluminum, 30th ------atomized (16µ) silicon - - - 33 - - - Calcium (metallic) - - 85 - - - -

boron - - - - - 20th -

Photo flash VI

Surname Pfp Pfp Pfp Pfp Pfp Pfp Pfp 694 695 716 717 718 723 726

Potassium perchlorate - 35 56 72 20th 45 43 Sodium perchlorate 37 - - - - -

10 20th Aluminum, atomized - - - - 27 (16µ) (16µ)

Calcium hydride 53 65 - - - - - Calcium / magnesium - - - - - 35 - 75/25

Calcium fluoride ------30th

Potassium borohydride - - 44 28 80 - -

- 90 - Photo flash VII

Surname Pfp slower slower patent 699 Photo flash Photo flash 3,726,728

Potassium perchlorate 20th - - - Sodium perchlorate - - - 31.4 (+60)

Lithium perchlorate - - - 68.6

Potassium chlorate - 18th 9 -

Barium nitrate - 10 36 -

sulfur - - 6th - Aluminum, flakes - - - (+40)

Magnesium, fine - 36 30th - Calcium / magnesium 80 - - - 75/25 shellac - 36 - -

Beef kidney fat - - 19th -

Chlorate / aluminum flash powder I

Surname Flash Firecracker Thunder # 2 mix

Potassium chlorate 43 27 63 67 52 64

Potassium perchlorate - 29 - - - -

Antimony trisulfide 26th 14th 9 - 32 9

sulfur - 10 18th - - 16

Cane sugar - - - 8th - - Aluminum, dark 31 20th 10 25th 16 9 pyro

- 91 - Chlorate / aluminum flash powder II

Surname Rozzi Rozzi Rozzi form form formul a a a

Potassium perchlo 61.5 50 41 67 55 61.5 30th 50 30th advice

Potash nitrate ------20th

Barium nitrate - - 3 ------Aluminum, 23 16 16 16.5 27 15th 40 25th 25th dark pyro

sulfur - - - 16.5 - 8.5 30th 25th 25th

Antimony trisulfi 15.5 16 6th - 18th 15th - - - d

Realgar * - - 34 ------Lampshade - 16 ------rz

- 2 ------* Realgar is arsenic sulfide (AsS)

Chlorate / aluminum flash powder III

Surname

Potassium chlorate 55 47 61.5 sulfur 27 - -

Antimony trisulfide - 6th 8th Aluminum, dark pyro 9 47 30.5 Charcoal 9 - -

- 92 - Chlorate-based flash powder I

Surname Red Toy Pistol Long Explosive Cap formula

Potassium chlorate 63 60 8th 58 63 74

Potash nitrate - - 45 - - -

Red gum - - - - - 19th Realgar 37 - - - - -

Antimony trisulfide - - - 33 - -

Charcoal - - 25th - 3 5 red phosphorus - 8th - - - -

sulfur - 32 18th - 32 - rosin - - - 9 - -

Zinc carbonate - - - - 1 - stearin - - - - 1 -

sand - - 4th - - - Dextrin - - - - - 2

Chlorate-based flash powder II

Surname Rozzi formula

Potassium chlorate 57 50 50 67 63 50 55

Potash nitrate - - - - 11 - -

sulfur - 12.5 - 22nd 21st - -

Charcoal - - - - - 25th - Antimony trisulfide 29 37.5 50 - 5 - 36

Antimony powder - - - 11 - - -

rosin 14th ------

Red gum - - - - - 25th 9

- 93 - Chlorate-based lightning powder III

Surname

Potassium chlorate 57 56 56 60 60 67

Potash nitrate - - - 12 - -

sulfur - - 31 23 30th 16.5

Antimony trisulfide 33 15th - 5 - - Charcoal - - - - 10 16.5

Lamp black - - 13th - - -

Calcium carbonate - 29 - - - - rosin 10 - - - - -

Chlorate / magnesium flash powder

Surname

Potassium chlorate 69 43 magnesium 31 57

Nitrate / aluminum lightning powder

Surname Bangor Bangor powder powder

Potash nitrate 50 - - - 67 60

Barium nitrate - 68 - 57 - -

sulfur 30th 9 - 14th 16.5 10 Aluminum, dark 20th 23 9 29 16.5 30th pyro Meal - - 91 - - -

- 94 - Nitrate / magnesium flash powder

Surname

Potash nitrate - 12.5

Barium nitrate 67 -

Strontium nitrate - 6th sulfur - 12.5 Magnesium, fine 33 47

Exotic lightning powder I

Surname green Permangan purple green yellow smokeless r lightning at lightning Blit r Blitz r Blitz z he lightning

Potassium perchlorate - - - 37 43 - -

Zirconium hydride ------7th

Potassium permanganese - - 41 - - - - at

Strontium nitrate - - - 11 - - -

Barium sulfate 50 50 - - - - -

Sodium nitrate - - - - - 86 -

Barium nitrate - - - - 21st - 29

Barium oxide ------25th Magnesium, - 50 - - 37 - 14th 7th 400mesh Aluminum, dark - 50 24 - 36 - - pyro

sulfur - - 35 - - - -

Copper oxide - - - 11 - - - (black)

PVC - - - 4th - - - zirconium ------27 Rice starch ------5

- 95 - Exotic lightning powder II

Surname red red purple yellower lightning lightning lightning lightning

Potassium perchlorate - - - - 33 -

Potassium chlorate - 12 - - - -

Potassium permanganate 80 - - - - 60

Strontium nitrate - - 50 24 - - sulfur 10 - - - - - Aluminum, dark 10 - - - - 40 pyro Magnesium, fine - 50 50 48 34 -

Strontium carbonate - 38 - - - -

Parisian green - - - 24 - -

Copper oxide ------(black)

Sodium oxalate - - - - 33 -

PVC - - - 4th - -

Exotic lightning powder III

Surname greener greener Sanford Sanford blue blue M22 lightning lightning formula formula lightning lightning

Potassium perchlorate - - - - - 42.5 -

Potassium chlorate - 11 - - 32 - -

Barium chlorate - 36 - - - - -

Barium nitrate 48 ------

Calcium sulfate - - 57 64 - - - Aluminum, dark - - - 36 - - - pyro

Magnesium, fine 48 46 43 - 42 42.5 75

Parisian green - - - - 22.5 13th - Teflon ------10

PVC 4th 7th - - 3.5 2 -

Fluorelastomer ------15th

- 96 - Target mixes

Potassium chlorate 60 sulfur 10

Antimony trisulfide 10 Magnesium, 10 200mesh Aluminum, - 10 325mesh

Calcium carbonate + 5 Reliably ignites in the event of a 22LR impact comment Projectile at standard speed.

- 97 - ► Experience reports

“Well, I built a couple of potassium permangant firecrackers. They were great. But that was 3 months ago ... and I found one in the closet a few days ago. After lighting, however, nothing more happened ... it sounded like a fart ... nothing more "

- Report from October 26th, 2008, it shows how the effect of flash sentences decreases with time, because the powder reacts slowly but steadily and thus loses its strength.

“I always preferred chlorates in the past. In my opinion, the impact was simply greater than with potassium permangant or potassium nitrate. It's just stupid that I dropped my backpack on New Year's Eve and one of those firecrackers went off in the backpack…. Well, mine is not much happens but the backpack is junk! "

- Report from New Year's Eve 2008/2009. Our friend now prefers to use potassium permangant and perchlorates. Firecrackers made from chlorates are very sensitive to impact ... such a mishap can lead to an explosion.

“The tip with the boric acid is really awesome. I like to work with "tricky" mixtures and have often had flash boobs that burned at once or went off prematurely. Actually, I once heard that flash firecrackers couldn't explode so easily without impact or sparks ... I guess I was wrong. With the boric acid everything works perfectly, I've been back for more than 4 months without incident. "

- Report of August 5th, 2009.

- 98 - T PP - F.- F. la l ssa H

Hints

The so-called TP-Flash is a further development of the rigid shock mixture. She reacts even more violently and is even more sensitive.

Chemicals - 65.0% potassium perchlorate - 12.5% aluminum - 22.5% magnesium

Manufacturing 1) First, the two metal powders are carefully mixed together.

2) Then you put all chemicals carefully on a sheet of paper and mix them together using the folding technique. This process should be carried out thoroughly until a fine, gray powder is produced.

- 99 - W. H is i ts te lM. M.l e ix i x

Hints

Everyone knows Whistle Mix from the so-called "air howls". These are now banned in Germany, mainly on the grounds that their trajectory is "unpredictable".

The normal whistle mix consists of only two simple chemicals. For the other types you need special additives. For the simple "howling" sound, the original mixture is completely sufficient.

The difference between a whistle and a rattle arises from the different compression of the propellant. If a soul, i.e. a thorn-shaped cavity in the sentence column, is pressed into the sentence, a very loud and shrill, vibrantly interrupted sound (rattling, rattling, screeching, croaking) is created due to the enlarged burn surface and the associated strong burn.

safety instructions

With this mix you should definitely work outside, not in rain or stormy weather. For your own safety, the oxidizer and fuel are shredded separately (separately). A dust mask and protective gloves should be worn.

The normal whistle mix, like its relatives, is very sensitive to sparks, shock, friction, heat and (static) electricity.

Health risks - Potassium chlorate is irritating and oxidizing - Sodium benzoate can cause asthma and is flammable and hygroscopic

- 100 - Chemicals - potassium perchlorate - Sodium / Sodium Benzoate

relationship 70 + 30th Potassium perchlorate + Sodium / sodium benzoate

materials - Mortar / coffee grinder - Plastic cup (preferably flat)

Manufacturing 1) The potassium chlorate is individually crushed as finely as possible in a mortar or coffee grinder.

2) Then the sodium benzoate is also powdered separately.

! Both fabrics really have to be as fine as possible. The consistency of talcum powder is the perfect yardstick!

3) As soon as both substances are fine enough, they are carefully placed in a plastic bowl / mug and mixed together by gently swirling.

Patience is required here. If you want a good result, you should "swivel" for at least 5 minutes. The longer the better.

If this is too dangerous for you, you can also use the "sieve method"

4) The finished powder is poured into strong sleeves (paper, cardboard, PVC) in portions and pressed. The pod should only be filled to 30-40%.

Never "knock down" the powder, it can easily be judged come!

5) The powder is ignited with a fuse. With the last portion of Whistle Mix you press part of the fuse into the sleeve. Alternatively, you can also close the case with a small ignition kit.

- 101 - R. ee dd I. I. rO r n nO W.W. H is i ts te lM. M.l e ix i x

safety instructions

With this mix you should definitely work outside, not in rain or stormy weather. For your own safety, the oxidizer and fuel are shredded separately (separately). A dust mask and protective gloves should be worn.

Red Iron Whistle Mix, just like normal Whistle Mix, is reactive and sensitive to sparks, impact, friction, heat and (static) electricity. This form of whistle mix is often used as rocket fuel. It provides enough energy to shoot a rocket into the sky and at the same time also make a howling sound.

The only difference to the normal whistle mix is the low proportion of iron (III) oxide and petrolatum.

Health risks - Potassium chlorate is irritating and oxidizing - Sodium benzoate can cause asthma and is flammable and hygroscopic

Chemicals - potassium chlorate / perchlorate - sodium benzoate - petrolatum (Vaseline) - red iron oxide - acetone and / or gasoline

relationship - 76% potassium chlorate / perchlorate - 20% sodium benzoate - 3% petrolatum - 1% red iron oxide

- 102 - materials - parchment paper - baking sheet - Mortar or coffee grinder - heat source and pot

Manufacturing 1) Iron oxide and potassium chlorate are crushed separately in a mortar or coffee grinder (as finely as possible)

2) Then the sodium benzoate is also powdered separately.

A coffee grinder is great!

If the sodium benzoate is so fine that you can rub it between your fingers and it does not clump, it does NOT have to be powdered will!

3) The petroleum jelly is melted over a heat source at a low temperature (60 ° C). Once it is completely melted, the same amount of gasoline is added as there is petroleum jelly.

Petrol is also suitable!

4) Now add the sodium benzoate to the petroleum jelly / gasoline mixture. If necessary, a little gasoline must also be mixed in to get a uniform "dough" (not too liquid and not too firm)

5) As soon as the dough has a good consistency, spread it out on the baking sheet with parchment paper and press it flat.

6) Then the KClO3 / Fe2O3 mixture is sieved over it (in 10-15 small portions). Always knead the dough well and add acetone if necessary as soon as the dough becomes too hard / dry.

It is kneaded by folding the dough on the baking paper and then spreading it out on the baking paper. Then add KClO3 / Fe2O3 again and knead ...

- 103 - ! KEEP THE DOUGH CONSTANTLY MOISTURIZED AND SMOOTH!

Instead of acetone, gasoline or toluene are also suitable!

7) When all the KClO3 / Fe2O3 has been added, knead until a uniform reddish mass is formed. Add acetone as needed.

Then knead for another 5 minutes.

8) Now spread the dough on the baking sheet covered with baking paper and let it dry. Crush any white pieces and work them into the dough.

NO DIRECT SUNLIGHT!

9) Finally, carefully sift the dried dough. Dry the granules obtained at room temperature and then store them in a Tupperware box. Place this can in a larger one with desiccant, protected from electricity, heat (ignition sources), moisture, shock and friction.

- 104 - H 33

H3 is a pyrotechnic mixture that mostly occurs as an ejection charge (lift) in spherical and cylinder bombs. But it is also used regularly as a weak flash powder. The scene is still arguing about the name "H3".

Because the origin of the name is actually unknown. Some claim that the name refers to the 3 components of the mixture. Others want to recognize the composition of the mixture in the name.

materials - Mortar, ball mill

Chemicals - potassium chlorate - charcoal - dextrin

relationship 75% potassium chlorate 25% charcoal + 2% dextrin (percentage by weight)

So at 100g:

75g potassium chlorate 25g charcoal + 2g dextrin

Manufacturing 1) All substances are individually ground in a mortar or in a ball mill to fine powder. Talcum fine is perfect.

2) Then all substances are mixed together. Since this mixture uses potassium chlorate, careful mixing methods should be used. The sieve method is best here. Once mixed, the powder should be used within 24 hours.

- 105 - K PP

KP is the name for a pyrotechnic composition based on potassium perchlorate, carbon powder and sulfur. KP is essentially used as a decomposition charge similar to H3 and, like this, burns faster than black powder, which results in more violent decomposition, but in contrast to H3 it is chlorate-free. However, KP is slightly weaker than H3 and therefore unsuitable for smaller calibers.

composition

68% KClO4, 18% carbon 12% sulfur.

As a compound containing potassium perchlorate, KP is less sensitive than H3; in particular, contact with sulfur or sulfur-containing compounds does not increase sensitivity.

G O ld l ede nn PP O ww dd ee r r

Chemicals - 60g potassium nitrate - 40g of vitamin C. (Ascorbic acid)

Manufacturing 1) Both substances are dissolved in hot water. This mixture is boiled down until a thick pulp remains.

When there is little water left, the mix will be quick very hot and can ignite by itself!

2) Then the paste is spread over a large area in order to solidify there. Then it can be granulated and laid out to dry.

- 106 - R. aa uu cc H uu nn dd NN ee bb ee l l

introduction

Whether in movies or just to celebrate the day, smoke and fog are popular effects for everyone. Nowadays you don't really need any pyrotechnic skills to create a proper smoke screen.

However, this only applies to normal, white smoke. As soon as color and effects are added, skill and a certain understanding are an advantage.

Smokes are particularly popular with record hunters. The European record is currently with an AN-Smoke weighing approx. 18kg. The German record is probably 12.5kg. At least we haven't seen a German video that surpasses our Smoke.

What we fight against, and what you will not read anywhere here, is the word "smoke bomb". The Legendary Smokebomb is exempt, there is just this official name.

Even so, there is just no smoke bomb. The names of numerous instructions and videos with words like “Smokebomb, Rauchbombe” testify to ignorance and lack of imagination.

No wonder, for many people the word “smoke bomb” just sounds better than “smoke composition, powder or mixture”.

Well, who needs it ...

- 107 - A. NN OO dd ee r rK K NN OO 33 ?? E.E. in i VnV ee r Gr Gle l iec i Hc ! !

A smoke made from ammonium nitrate (AN) or potassium nitrate (KNO3)?

The answer has become something of a question of faith in recent years. Everyone claims their method is the best and most successful. Both models have advantages and disadvantages.

Since we are very familiar with the two smoke types, we will compare them for you.

Here is our report:

► ammonium nitrate (AN)

Ammonium nitrate smokes are quite popular because of the low cost of manufacture. Even the largest smokes released in Europe were made of ammonium nitrate and sugar.

benefits - Cheap - When dry, you can expect a lot of smoke

- Will ignite for sure

disadvantage - Extremely vulnerable to water - Production takes a while - Not as strong as a good "Legendary smokebomb"

Evaluation (AN-Smoke) Smoke development ●●●● ○○ costs ● ● ● ● ● ● construction time ● ● ● ○ ○ ○ durability ● ● ○ ○ ○ ○

- 108 - Ammonium nitrate smokes can score with their low cost and relatively high smoke development. In addition, almost everything is suitable for the production, whether newspaper, T-shirts, tablecloths or toilet paper.

The disadvantages, however, are the somewhat longer construction time. Drying in the oven is much faster, but it is also expensive. In a warm, dry place, it can take up to two weeks for the paper to dry enough to produce thick, white smoke.

In addition, ammonium nitrate is extremely hydrophilic. So the smoke must be stored dry and as airtight as possible. Otherwise, the great smoke yield quickly goes into the basement or the smoke does not even ignite properly.

► Potassium Nitrate (KNO3)

The original mix of all smokes. No other mixture has been and is used so often. However, up to now hardly any large quantities (over 10kg) have been ignited as with the smokes made from ammonium nitrate.

benefits - High smoke development - Ignites with absolute certainty - Any shape is possible when melted

- Easy to manufacture

disadvantage - Production about delicate (Method 2) - Direct contact with water reduces smoking performance

- Potassium nitrate can be expensive will

- 109 - Evaluation (KNO3-Smoke) Smoke development ●●●●● ○ costs ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ construction time ● ● ● ● ● ○ durability ● ● ● ● ○ ○

Potassium nitrate smokes are so popular for a reason. The smoke development is enormous. In this point it is only surpassed by the Legendary smokebomb and military mixes (more on this under “exotic mixes”).

In addition, this smoke can be produced within a few minutes, regardless of whether you use method 1 or method 2. Their long shelf life is just as positive. If you don't leave it outside in the rain or pour water over it, it can withstand a lot.

However, this smoke out can be quite expensive. Most of the potassium nitrate offerings are just usury, and the police are very interested in the people who buy KNO3. A good price is 2 € / kg, usually only achievable with fertilizer (Multi K, Krista K, etc.) But you can easily buy and use it on the Internet.

► Conclusion

Evaluation (AN-Smoke) Smoke development ●●●● ○○ costs ● ● ● ● ● ● construction time ● ● ● ○ ○ ○ durability ● ● ○ ○ ○ ○

Evaluation (KNO3-Smoke) Smoke development ●●●●● ○ costs ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ construction time ● ● ● ● ● ○ durability ● ● ● ● ○ ○

- 110 - ! It remains a question of faith!

But this answer is relative.

The AN Smoke is perfect for anyone who wants to save money and have a little more time. Drying method 1 even shortens the construction time dramatically. A "completely" dried AN Smoke can definitely compete with a KNO3.

However, you have to keep the smoke away from water or other moisture at all costs. Airtight plastic bags / trays are mandatory.

The KNO3 Smoke, on the other hand, is famous, notorious and almost over-praised. The smoke development is depending on Production method, almost "very good". This smoke is especially perfect if you have little time, because the mixture can be made almost immediately. And its further development, the Legendary smokebomb, beats almost everything.

For many, however, the purchase of potassium nitrate or the high price / kg causes difficulties. In Germany it is better not to buy any KNO3 apart from the fertilizer. In countries like Poland, the Czech Republic, Great Britain or France, however, pure potassium nitrate is sold at ridiculous prices.

Authors comment We have preferred AN Smokes for years. In our opinion, potassium nitrate is too valuable in the pyrotechnic field to be blown into the air for smoke.

In order to produce the AN Smokes effectively, we produce a 15 liter AN sugar mixture twice a year. This is enough for six months and the smokes obtained from it can be perfectly stored in a warm, dry attic.

In our opinion, the smoke output is just as high as with a KNO3 Smoke. It usually takes 30 seconds for the smoke to ignite properly, but then you can be prepared for a lot.

- 111 - A. NN - S.- S. mm O kk ee ss

AN-Smoke can be produced in 2 different ways. The first method simply saves a step in the manufacturing process. We will briefly mention this. However, in our opinion, it is completely pointless not to carry out this step, the smoke yield increases significantly with this step and it takes at most one more day to manufacture.

You can also choose between ammonium nitrate from calcium ammonium nitrate fertilizer (KAS) and that from cold compresses. The AN from fertilizer is better and cheaper.

Due to the new laws, there are many KAS fertilizers with a new composition that is not so good. Strangely, none of the Raiffeisen markets have changed their mix, so there is the perfect fertilizer there.

The color of the fertilizer does not matter, it is available in white and brown.

Here is a sack of calcium ammonium nitrate fertilizer (KAS) from a Raiffeisen market:

- 112 - This mixture should be indicated at the back:

materials - vessel (Buckets are perfect for an annual amount) (toilet paper, - paper kitchen paper, newspaper, etc.) (Optional, also works - oven without) - fuse

Chemicals - ammonium nitrate (From KAS fertilizers or compresses) (normal - Sugar granulated sugar) - Water

relationship

60:40 With 100g, 60g CAN and 40g sugar.

- 113 - Manufacturing 1) 600g calcium ammonium nitrate and 400g sugar are weighed out

2) Then the same amount of water is heated to 90 ° C as there are raw materials

600g KAS + 400g sugar => 1kg => 1kg = 1 liter of water

By heating, both the sugar and the ammonium nitrate dissolve better in the water.

3) Now the two substances are added to the water while stirring constantly. It has to be stirred until no more KAS balls can be fished out with a spoon. The solution cools down extremely strongly during this process.

It is beneficial to stir the solution for another hour.

! The following step is voluntary. It extends the production time by a few hours / days. However, the smoke yield increases significantly a pure solution!

4) In order to obtain a better smoke yield, the vessel is now simply turned off for a day or more. The lime sludge from the fertilizer settles on the bottom and the solution can then be quickly decanted.

The perfect time can be recognized by the fact that you can look through the solution or down to the floor.

So you can separate the sludge from the AN sugar solution. Many people forego this step. However, you then have to be prepared for a significantly lower smoke yield and less dense smoke.

- 114 - After 4 days:

5) Regardless of whether it is separated or not, the toilet paper rolls etc. are now immersed in the solution and then placed over the container expressed / pressed. As much solution as possible should be squeezed out and recovered.

Paper towels have proven to be the perfect raw material. For reasons unknown so far, paper towels are the most emitting smoke.

- 115 - 6) Finally, the paper is either dried in the oven at 100 ° C or openly at room temperature.

The smoke is ignited with a sparkler / fuse

or strong lighter flame. As soon as there is a slight smoke, it begins to ignite.

The open method takes significantly longer (sometimes up to 2 weeks), but is significantly cheaper and, above all, safer.

Good places to dry are the spaces under beds, Drying cupboards or a warm, dry attic.

With this method, however, the paper never gets completely dry, but that's not a problem. When running off, it only takes a few seconds longer for the smoke to really take off.

!Warning!

When drying in the oven you always have to stick with it and always what to delete next to it.

If a jet of flame comes out of the smoke after lighting, it should be exited quickly or the smoke with the Press the burning side to the ground.

Some of the AN / sugar burns through an open flame! The Smoking performance then decreases quickly!

- 116 - The general rule is: drying at 100 ° C until the paper is dry / brown.

The brown color is a sure sign that the paper is super dry. Take out immediately, process and pack airtight.

From our own experience we can say what happens if you don't stick with it and burn the paper:

“So I was only outside for a very short time to go to the bathroom. When I got back into the kitchen, brown smoke was billowing out of the oven. The smoke had covered most of the kitchen and my eyes and lungs ached.

Luckily I was on the first floor, so I could quickly throw the baking sheet out the window into the front yard. That continued to smoke outside for a full 5 minutes.

The record was not particularly good. The oven was still black after cleaning it 3 times, the baking tray was burnt, the entire kitchen had to be cleaned twice and the baking gloves caught fire when I touched the tray.

But I'm also very happy about this event in my early days, 5 years ago. It was only because of this that I was really sensitized. Since then, let my smokes dry in the attic (works perfectly) and costs nothing. "

- Report from LB from 03/12/2005, well, everyone started at that time.

- 117 - K NN OO 33 S.S. mm O kk ee ss

There are also 2 methods of producing this smoke. The first method is very easy and quick. The second is a little trickier, but just as easy with good care. The effort is worth it, because the second method produces significantly more and, above all, denser smoke.

method 1 materials - mixing tank - Mortar / ball mill / coffee grinder - fuse

Chemicals - potassium nitrate - Sugar (Powdered sugar or diabetic sugar / sorbitol)

relationship

60:40 At 100g, 60g KNO3 and 40g sugar.

Manufacturing 1) The two substances are ground separately as finely as possible. Whether in a mortar, in a ball mill or with a coffee grinder does not matter.

2) Then both ingredients are carefully mixed together and put into a container (can, PVC pipe or whatever you can find).

3) Light up, done.

- 118 - method 2 materials - Cooking pot - stove top - Mortar / ball mill / coffee grinder - fuse

Chemicals - potassium nitrate - Sugar (Powdered sugar or diabetic sugar / sorbitol) - iron (III) oxide (red) (Optional, also works without)

relationship

60:40 At 100g, 60g KNO3 and 40g sugar.

Or

60:40 + 2g iron (III) oxide (additive)

Manufacturing 1) The two / three substances are ground separately as finely as possible. Whether in a mortar, in a ball mill or with a coffee grinder does not matter.

2) Then the sugar is slowly and carefully heated on a hotplate until it caramelises (can turn brown).

3) Now add the KNO3 in small steps and stir constantly.

! If the mixture becomes too hot, it can catch fire. So be sure to wear protective gloves / goggles and be outdoors Experiment!

Otherwise put a bucket with water next to it in the pot can be immersed quickly!

- 119 - When the mixture is added to the pot immediately when adding the KNO3 sticky / hard pulp that can hardly be shaped has to be Sugar get even hotter before adding!

4) Finally, take the finished mixture off the stove immediately and mix in the iron (III) oxide while stirring constantly. The iron (III) oxide improves / accelerates the reaction. Allegedly this way more smoke should be generated.

However, we could hardly find any change, it is more a matter of taste.

The mixture hardens extremely quickly. So immediately after successful Pour the mixture into a container!

- 120 - ► Legendary KNO3 Smoke

The so-called Legendary smokebomb is a very impressive further development of the normal KNO3 Smoke. In some cases, such a smoke produces up to 75% more smoke than the standard model.

There are actually Legendary smokebombs which, at a weight of only 700g, emit extremely thick smoke for a full 5 minutes.

Chemicals - 60g potassium nitrate (KNO3, fertilizer is also possible, of course) (tea - 40g sugar - 40g paraffin lights)

materials - Cooking pot - stove top - spoon - fuse

Manufacturing

1) Potassium nitrate and sugar are crushed into a powder and then mixed well together.

2) The paraffin is heated in a saucepan until it melts (from approx. 65 ° C). You should not use excessive heat (<80 ° C), otherwise the paraffin could ignite.

- 121 - 3) As soon as you have a clear, easily stirrable liquid, add the entire KNO3 sugar mixture at once.

Stir constantly. After stirring for about 5 minutes, the result should be a porridge with the consistency of baby food (or a little firmer).

From now on, take the pan off the stove, and in the course of the following Steps let the mixture cool down further!

4) The pot with the porridge is put down somewhere for 3 minutes. Then you can see that part of the paraffin has separated from the sugar and KNO3. For a successful ignition, however, the paraffin must have mixed well with the chemicals.

5) So it is stirred again, and again waited 3 minutes.

Repeat these steps until the mush becomes a sooner

crumbly substance has developed.

The substance should be at least warm to the touch and shape with your fingers.

- 122 - 6) Then the mass can be placed in a stable container (metal or thick PVC) can be pressed / rammed. It is also possible to put the mass in the corner of a freezer bag and to compress or turn the corner into a cone.

The Legendary then has to be wrapped in a few layers of aluminum foil. If the smoke is open, there is usually only a jet flame without smoke. Good insulation / encasing is therefore a must.

Ignition problems

If there are problems with the ignition, you can insert a pin while it is curing, remove it later and use a core made of black powder to ignite.

The very tough can of course also use a bunsen burner or a small set of thermite (5-10g). Sounds unusual, but we have successfully tested it. With this sentence the Legendary ignites 100%!

Usually the Legendary smoke ignites with a normal sparkler.

- 123 - F. aa rb r ib Gi Gee r r R.R. aa uu cc H

The normal smoke mixtures of ammonium or potassium nitrate deliver the usual white smoke. However, there are many ways to change the color.

Colored smoke looks better, of course, and is actually quite useful in emergency situations. However, colored smoke is also more expensive, especially if indigo pigments are used. These are quite expensive and mostly available in restoration shops. But there are many other blends that can do without indigo.

Developing your own mixes is pretty difficult ... there are already so many. But nothing speaks against modifying the ones listed here. Ask your imagination, but always watch out for your safety.

Have fun trying.

► Mixtures

White smoke • 3g potassium nitrate, 3g lactose and 4g salmiac • 5 parts charcoal powder, 1 part potassium nitrate and 2 parts ammonia • Potassium nitrate and sugar in a 60/40 ratio • 44g potassium chlorate, 15g sulfur powder, 40g zinc dust and 1g sodium hydrogen carbonate (baking soda) • 2/3 zinc dust and 1/3 hexachloroethane • 28g zinc dust, 22g zinc oxide and 50g hexachloroethane • 20g potassium chlorate, 50g ammonium chloride, 20g naphthalene and 10g charcoal

• 40g potassium chlorate, 45g ammonium chloride, 12g montan wax and 3g kieselguhr

• 29g potassium chlorate, 27g cinnamic acid, 29g lactose and 15g koalin • 48.5g potash nitrate, 48.5g sulfur and 3g realgar • 66g potassium nitrate, 13g realgar, 5g charcoal, 5g lamp black and 11g dextrin

• Black powder also gives off white clouds of mist

- 124 - Blue smoke • 1g potassium nitrate, 1g milk sugar and 0.8g (finely powdered) synthetic indigo.

• 28g potassium chlorate, 15g wheat flour, 17g methylene blue, 40g indigo

• 33g potassium chlorate, 25g lactose, 40g phthalo blue, 2g dextrin

Red smoke • Mixture of 5g potassium nitrate, 1g lactose and 10g paranitranilin red;

• 42.5% methylaminoanthraquinone, 27.5% potassium chlorate, 19.5% baking soda and 10.5% sulfur. • 26g potassium chlorate, 48g diethylenaminorosindone and 26g powdered sugar

• 25g potassium perchlorate, 20g antimony trisulfide, 50g rhodamine red and 5g dextrin

• 25g potassium chlorate, 15g wheat flour, 24g rhodamine B and 36g Para red

• 24g potassium chlorate, 16g lactose, 40g rhodamine B, 4g sodium hydrogen carbonate (baking soda) and 2g dextrin

Green smoke • 5g potassium nitrate, 3g lactose, 2g auramine and 2g synthetic indigo.

• 20g potassium nitrate, 10g red arsenic, 20g sulfur powder, 20g antimony trisulfide and 20g black powder • 28g potassium chlorate, 15g wheat flour, 17g methylene blue, 30g indigo and 10g auramine

Orange smoke • 5g lead dioxide, 3.5g potassium dichromate and pulverized separately 1.5g magnesium powder and ignite this mixture. (US Patent No.1975785)

Brown smoke • 5g copper dioxide, 3.5g lead dioxide and 1.5g magnesium powder. (US Patent No.1975099) • 47.4g potash nitrate, 3.9g sulfur, 4g sand, 4.9g calcium carbonate (lime), 10.6g borax and 29.2g pitch

- 125 - Gray smoke • Bergermix: Mix 5g zinc dust with 7cm3 carbon tetrachloride in a plate and stir in enough kieselguhr or zinc oxide until a doughy mixture is formed. This is ignited in the open on a board with a mixture of potassium nitrate and sulfur. Use 10g of potassium nitrate, 50g of hexachloroethane, 25g of zinc powder, 10g of zinc oxide and 5g of colophony resin

•

• 45.5g hexachloroethane, 45.5g zinc oxide and 9g calcium silicide

Yellow smoke • 25g potassium chlorate, 50g paranitraniline and 25g lactose • 21.4g potassium chlorate, 50g naphthalene, 2.7g azodimethylaniline, 38g auramine and 28.5g sodium hydrogen carbonate (baking soda) • the following may be incomplete: 30g potassium chlorate, 50g naphthalenezodimethylaniline and 20g powdered sugar • 25g potassium nitrate, 16g sulfur and 59g realgar • 43g potassium nitrate, 10g sulfur, 37g realgar, 4g charcoal and 6g dextrin

• 24g potassium chlorate, 16g lactose, 43g quinoline yellow, 6g sodium hydrogen carbonate (baking soda), 2g dextrin

Purple smoke • 26g potassium chlorate, 15g wheat flour, 16g rhodamine B, 21g Para red and 22g indigo

- 126 - B. ee n G aa l l si cic sHH ee F.F. ee u e r r

Everyone knows Bengali fires or torches from the football stadium or from some demonstrations. These burn off with strong heat and smoke development and emit a colored flame.

The successfully tested mixtures come from the Pyrocookbook by Vitamin C. We have only changed them slightly, mostly due to incorrect dimensions, a mixture that we believe to be even more effective was found.

We looked around a bit on the Internet for the other mixtures and tried a lot. However, some of the mixtures are clearly inferior to the successfully tested mixtures in terms of color strength. They are more suitable for small experiments or if you cannot get to some chemicals.

safety instructions - Once lit, Bengal fires are difficult or even impossible to extinguish

- We strongly advise against holding Bengali torches in hand. Serious burns are guaranteed on contact with the reacting mass

- The chemicals required are mostly harmful to health. Gloves and respiratory protection are therefore mandatory.

materials - Scissors - paper - plastic bowl - PVC pipe - mortar - darning instrument (Stick, metal weight etc.)

- 127 - Chemicals - alcohol or spirits - gunpowder (optional)

Manufacturing 1) The body of the Bangali fires can either be a thin PVC pipe or made of strong paper. To do this, roll up a few layers of cardboard paper on a stick and wrap the whole thing with a few layers of tape.

The bottom can either be closed with an aluminum stopper (see “PVC-Böller”) or simply with tape.

2) Then all chemicals are powdered separately and carefully mixed together in a plastic container.

3) The finished mixture is moistened with a small amount of spirit or alcohol and poured into the pipe in portions. Every 3-4 cm the mass in the tube is compacted with a suitable tamping instrument.

Mixtures that are sensitive to impact may only be pressed! Otherwise can be rammed!

The last centimeter of the pipe is kept free for the ignition mixture

4) There are different ways to light the Bengal torch:

The easiest way is to mix the remaining Bengal mixture with a bit of black powder and then use it to fill the tube on top.

Others swear by thermite. In any case, this provides the necessary ignition temperature. But it is also possible to fill the remaining space in the pipe with a flash mixture of potassium nitrate and magnesium (ratio 2: 1).

- 128 - Successfully tested mixtures

red White yellow green blue Strontium nitrate 65 Strontium oxalate 26th Barium nitrate 52 57 50 Barium fluoride 4th Dextrin magnesium 15th 32 Aluminum cut 17th 20th Dextrin 4th 8th PVC 20th 18th 7th sulfur 7th zinc oxide 3 Copper- 20th Hydroxide carbonate Cryolite 8th Potassium perchlorate 60 Black powder 13th

(All weights in%)

Other mixtures

green Weight information in g Barium nitrate 1.2 5 8th 4th Potassium chlorate 4th 2 shellac 0.1 1.5 sulfur 0.3 magnesium 3.2 PVC 1.8 Red gum 2

- 129 - red Weight information in g Strontium nitrate 1.8 8th 10 16 Potassium chlorate 2 4th 9 shellac 3.5 sulfur 0.6 magnesium Charcoal 0.1 2 1 Rosin 1 Dextrin 0.2 Red gum 1.2 3

yellow Weight information in g Barium nitrate 25th Sodium nitrate 5 Sodium oxlate 8th sulfur 6th 4th Soda (anhydrous) 3 Red gum 5

blue Weight information in g Potassium chlorate 16 9

Potassium perchlorate 6th

Barium nitrate 4th 7th Copper- 4th ammonium chloride Ammonium chloride 1 Lactose 6th 0.5 sulfur Parisian green 3 6th stearin 1 1 Calomel 10 1 Dextrin PVC

- 130 - violet Weight information in g Strontium nitrate 48 16 18th Potassium nitrate 13th 5 9 sulfur 5 2 2 Charcoal 4th 2 1 Dextrin 1 Red gum 3 2

- 131 - R. aa k e t et en

introduction

Building missiles is difficult, most of us agree. Building the construction is easy ... but getting it in the air is a problem even with small mistakes.

It often happens that the rocket is built without precise planning and with a sense of proportion. Then you hear stories like "exploded on the ground", "only climbed 10m" or "rocket became a sidewinder".

The instructions for building the body written here were found on the Internet a few years ago, modified a little and successfully tested a good dozen times. We have seldom found such good and precise instructions on the subject of "missiles".

There are mainly two types of missiles, black powder and potassium nitrate missiles. Rockets made of potassium nitrate fly much further (see Hamas's Katyushas), but they also get hotter.

The instructions below are by no means intended for gunpowder missiles. Missiles with black powder, it's better to build cardboard instead of PVC

- 132 - A. uu fb f aab uu

This is what our rocket should look like later:

Material: - 25mm PVC conduit - 22mm log - duct tape - Hot glue - water glass (soda water glass)

Tools - 3 and 8mm drill bits - 12 ° countersink - wood saw - brush - Bunsen burner / stovetop - Caliper / ruler

Chemicals - 60g potassium nitrate - 40g sugar - 5g iron (III) oxide (red)

- 133 - Manufacturing

► Body (part 1)

1) First you saw a 10cm long piece out of the pipe. Of course, depending on the weight of the effect charge, you need more fuel and a longer tube. But here the 10cm is enough.

2) The later combustion of the fuel creates enormous pressure at the nozzle.

To prevent the nozzle from being shot out of the barrel, press the edge after careful heating with the Bunsen burner / stove

by rolling inwards on a pad,

The shell is now ready, let's turn to the nozzle.

- 134 - ► nozzle

1) A 15mm wide piece is sawn off from the log.

2) Then you have to drill a hole in the piece (the later nozzle). This hole has to be as straight as possible, otherwise the rocket will not fly vertically into the sky.

Here you have an absolute advantage with a vice and a drill press. If you don't have something like that at home, you can use the following construction:

You take the PVC pipe from the first step, put the blank into it and press with the rest of the way

Round wood after. Now you clamp the 3mm drill and start exactly in the middle.

3) With the 8mm Drill will now on same wisely drilled the hole.

You can leave the nozzle like that now. The next step will make it fly a bit more stable and the sound on departure will sound better.

4) (optional)

With the 12 ° countersink, the hole is widened so that 5mm of the 8mm hole is still left.

The nozzle is now almost finished and would work fine, only the wood is defenseless from the heat of combustion!

- 135 - 5) To do this, you now take the water glass and brush the inside of the nozzle with it and also brush the side facing inwards with it.

6) To insert the nozzle into the cover, press the nozzle again with the round wood (be careful in the direction, the widened part should look outwards) against the rounded part of the PVC pipe and now fill the gap with hot glue.

► body (part 2)

1) Now the cover is still missing the cover, to do this you cut a 1cm disc from the round wood and drill a 3mm hole right in the middle (should already be in the middle, but is not that critical).

The hole can be left out if no effect is to be triggered.

- 136 - ► The fuel

A KNO3 / sorbitol (sugar) drive is used, this is probably the easiest to manufacture and very safe! You don't have to worry too much about it, it's just salt / fertilizer and sugar.

The mixing ratio is 60% KNO3 to 40% sorbitol, in addition 5g iron (III) oxide is added

Manufacturing 1) Turn on the heating plate and heat 40g sugar until it melts.

2) Now add the 60g KNO3 and stir vigorously. The mixture must never get too hot, otherwise it will ignite by itself.

3) Add another 5g of iron (III) oxide and continue stirring vigorously.

The fuel is already ready and must now be processed further quickly. The following steps, which are before adding the fuel, should be prepared beforehand.

- 137 - ► Processing

1) A brush or other suitable object should now be pushed through the nozzle.

It should be ensured that there is enough space between the end of the brush and the imaginary lid, otherwise the effect set will ignite too early.

2) Then take the pot with the fuel from the plate and slowly let the fuel run into the envelope (let it run in on one side to prevent air bubbles).

There should be 15mm below the fuel edge.

The lid is now pressed onto the fuel and a fuse goes into the small hole (do not push it in too far, otherwise it will ignite too early).

- 138 - 3) The edges are bent over so that the lid holds.

The gaps are reinforced with hot glue.

4) Now you have to wait until you can take out the brush.

Once the body just has "Hand warm" sounds stupid if you slowly turn the brush out of the fuel.

5) The body is placed somewhere to harden (do not lay it, it is not yet completely fixed).

If the soul has become too deep or not deep enough, the 8mm drill is simply used to drill through the nozzle to the desired depth (don't worry, you would have to drill for a long time and at high speed for the drive to ignite).

You can now dribble a few drops of liquid fuel into it and plug it in with a thin rod (to shorten the core) and then drill it again until the length fits

6) Finally, the body is wrapped with duct tape to be sure to make sure that it does not burn out (especially with longer versions!)

- 139 - ► Ignition and guide rod

The ignition should take place at the end of the core, otherwise the fuel burns through the fastest near the nozzle and the risk of the PVC bursting there is very high!

1) You take a piece of fuse and stick it into the soul, it has to stand at the end of the soul and look out 5-6cm

2) Now you wrap the part inside the core with tape and leave 5mm free at the top.

By wrapping the Detonator will blow this area very quickly, but at least

it does not ignite the fuel in the lower part of the body.

If the fuse doesn't stay in the missile, just put a blob of glue or bring still warm fuel to its tip and push it up into the soul

3) In order for the rocket to rise vertically into the sky, a guide rod must be attached to the side of the body

The length should be chosen so that the center of gravity is behind the nozzle. The drive is stuck straight onto the guide rod with 2-3 tight wraps of tape

With that the rocket is ready, ignite and have fun.

- 140 - T re r ieb i ssb t Ot Of f f f

Here we explain again how the fuel for the rocket is made.

materials - Cooking pot - stove top - missile body - fuse

Chemicals - potassium nitrate - Sugar - iron (III) oxide (red)

relationship

60g KNO3 + 40g sugar + 5g iron (III) oxide

Manufacturing 1) The three substances are ground separately as finely as possible. Whether in a mortar, in a ball mill or with a coffee grinder does not matter.

2) Then the sugar is slowly and carefully heated on a hotplate until it caramelises (can turn brown).

3) Now add the KNO3 in small steps and stir constantly.

! If the mixture gets too hot, it can ignite. So be sure to wear protective gloves / goggles and be outdoors Experiment!

- 141 - 4) Finally, take the finished mixture off the stove immediately and mix in the iron (III) oxide while stirring constantly.

5) Immediately insert the mass into the rocket body and insert a pin or something similar from above. This is how the later “soul” is formed.

6) The fuel begins to harden immediately. The pen should be pulled out when the mass has dried on but is still soft enough to be able to pull out the pen.

- 142 - K le l ien i een ss F.F. ee uu ee rw r ewe rk r k

S. pp aa rk r lke l re r B.B. O mm b ss

Sparkler Bombs are simple fireworks items that produce a real bang without flash or black powder. Unfortunately in the past it happened again and again that some “experts” locked the whole construction in a metal container. This turned this article into a pipe bomb and led to many

Splinter wounds.

materials - sparklers - tape (Insulating or armored tape)

Manufacturing 1) First you have to cut the sparklers. To do this, pinch the metal rod at the beginning of the with pliers

Sparkler powder.

For a good sparkler, you need 50-200 pieces. The Sparklers should be as close together as possible.

2) Then all the sparklers are arranged in a cylindrical shape and fixed at both ends with a few layers of tape.

- 143 - 3) Now the entire body is wrapped with a lot of tape. When using duct tape, we often had to wrap 10-20 layers around the body.

You only have to stick an additional sparkler in the top, which will then ignite all the others later. That fireworks would be done.

Authors comment The bang caused by the bursting of the shell is to be equated with good firecrackers. However, these fireworks are only beneficial for those who cannot get the chemicals for flash powder. In the long run, the high consumption of sparklers becomes quite expensive.

- 144 - D. ee r r S.S. t te r icr i eHc HH O l l bz ööz lb le l rl re

The matchstick is a firecracker for absolute beginners. All he needs are match heads and a lot of tape. The large number of heads and the many hours worked make it only interesting for people who cannot get proper chemicals.

materials - Sticks - tape - vessel (for the heads)

Manufacturing 1. First remove the ignition mixture from the match heads. To do this, you scrape it off, or simply cut off the entire head.

2. Then you put the mixture in a container (cardboard, PVC) and wrap it with at least 50 layers of tape.

It is ignited with a piece of visco.

For a really big bang you need several hundred heads. In addition, the whole thing really has to be extremely damned!

- 145 - W. uu nn dd ee rk r e ek r re z n nz e

Sparklers belong to the class of small fireworks. Making your own is more expensive than buying it at a discount store, but it can be used as an introductory exercise. In the scene, sparklers are often used as igniters for all kinds of fireworks.

materials - metal rod - Glass - starch or wallpaper paste

Chemicals - barium nitrate (finely powdered) - iron powder (rough) - aluminum (finely powdered)

relationship We found the following composition in 3 different school books and successfully tried it out:

11g barium nitrate + 5g iron powder + 1g aluminum powder

The metal rod Almost anything can be used as a “framework” for the sparkler. Pipe cleaners, sturdy metal wires but also wooden kebab skewers are all possible. However, the skewers burn with it.

- 146 - Manufacturing 1) First, all chemicals are carefully mixed together in a glass or something else.

2) Then you just have to stir the whole thing into a pulp.

► With wallpaper paste, you first mix a relatively stiff / firm one with water and then stir in the chemicals.

► If you use starch, add 3g of starch to the mixture listed above and, by adding boiling water, make a stiff paste.

3) Now all you have to do is dip the iron rods in the pulp, pull them out and let them dry properly in a warm and dry place. A warm attic or drying cabinet are ideal places

- 147 - H uu mm m e ln l unu nn dd B.B. ie i nen ee nn

Mostly found in children's fireworks, these pyrotechnic articles are a real feast for the eyes, depending on the mixture used. The construction is largely a matter of taste (e.g. the position of the mini nozzle).

materials - tubes (PVC, strong cardboard) - logs (Diameter of the pipe) - hot glue (Hard dough is also possible) - drill (2-4mm)

Chemicals - Effect charge → here: black powder + potassium perchlorate (3: 1)

Manufacturing 1) First you need 2 plugs which later close the pipe from both sides. The M-80 closures, hard putty that becomes rock-hard after a while or the aluminum stoppers we favor are suitable for this. To do this, take a piece of aluminum foil and press it into a stopper with the help of the tube and the round wood.

2) Then put a stopper max.5mm into one end of the tube and fill the remaining 5mm with hot glue.

- 148 - 3) As soon as the hot glue is hard, you can fill the tube with the appropriate powder. The powder must be pressed in the tube for the best possible result.

If Whistle Mix is used, it is still necessary to wait until even the aluminum stopper warmed up by the hot glue has cooled down!

Never ram or hit Whistle Mix. Only black powder is tough enough to withstand shocks. But even with it should don't overdo it!

4) When there is only 2cm of space left in the pipe, drill a hole with the drill in the part that is still free and insert a piece of visco through it.

If you are careful, you can drill the hole before filling the tube!

5) Now add so much powder until only 1cm is free and press this powder together with the fuse again.

6) The last centimeter is closed in the same way as described in the second step. If that is too dangerous for you, you can of course close the tube with clay or the M-80 method.

- 149 - We tested black powder, whistle mix and SP with a chlorate content. We could not ignite any of these mixtures with a hot glue gun tip. Nevertheless, you shouldn't put it on it and, if you are unsure, use clay, etc.!

7) To prevent the fuse from becoming loose or falling out later, you can attach it to the hole with a piece of tape. The hole will later be burned free by the fuse.

Authors comment So far, we have not been able to 100% imitate the “hum” that is known from commercial bumblebees. The instructions shown here create a strong hissing sound and a nice cloud of smoke with the right mix of effects.

We prefer a 3: 1 mixture of black powder and potassium perchlorate as the effect charge. In our experiments, a good-looking light and smoke effect was created. At the same time, this powder burns slowly but strongly enough to set the tube in rapid rotation.

Of course, you can also develop the bumblebees or bees yourself. A small flash chamber at the far end of the tube can, after the actual "effect charge" has burned off, still ensure a good bang. The number of possibilities is almost unlimited.

- 150 - D. ee r rH H ee l kl iO i ppk te t re r

The helicopter, also known as the buzz bomb, is a small but impressive fireworks display. The body rests on the construction of a bee, but quickly lifts off the ground thanks to a small rotor. As with many New Year's rockets, a special form of black powder, and not KNO3 sugar, is used as a drive.

materials - hammer - ramming tool - Drilling machine - tubes - wings (flat, explained below) - Candle

Chemicals - gunpowder (special) - bentonite - Flash (optional)

The drive mix The drive mix consists of: 68% potassium nitrate 14% charcoal 9% sulfur 9% aluminum

- 151 - Manufacturing 1) First take care of the lower part of the body. To do this, a little betonite is placed in the tube and beaten into a stopper with a hammer and a pile driver as usual. On the outside you mark how far the wood has penetrated, i.e. how thick the bentonite plug is.

Here the ramming tool is a bit sharpened, this ensures a better combustion overall drive!

2) Now the finished drive mixture comes into the tube. At the top, however, about 1-2cm of space should be left to cover this side with betonite

to be able to close.

You don't need a pointed ram for the top closure.

With longer tubes, you can optionally use a little less drive mixture and add a small portion of Flash.

As a result, the helicopter later explodes at the highest point of its flight path.

However, the Flash must not be used in this way be sensitive to shock, after all, the bentonite still has to be rammed or pressed!

- 152 - 3) Then go back to the line on the outer shell that you made in the first step. With a fine 2mm drill you drill about 2mm above this in a small hole in the body.

It is best to use a drill press for this, as precise precision is required here. The hole should only go to the middle of the body and, as shown in the drawing, on one of the slopes

break through!

- 153 - The rotor - part 1 Next, the rotor needs to be built. This is the most difficult and time-consuming part of the manual. The rod that is supposed to form the rotor can be freely bought in pyrotechnic shops on the Internet. But some people are said to have already succeeded in building useful rotors from materials such as light PVC or ice cream sticks. The bought ones are preferable to that.

1) You light the candle, take one end of the stick in each hand and hold the middle over the flame. As soon as you can bend it easily, turn your right hand and the end that is being held towards you. The left side doesn't move. (here reversed for left-handers ^^)

Never perform this step with the drive mix nearby! Do not "overturn" the rotor, this can be seen some attempts without problems!

- 154 - The rotor - part 2 Now it gets a little more complicated. The rotor must be placed at a certain angle to the drive hole (drilled in the 2nd step). A simple tool can save a lot of computing work.

1) Cut a hole in a beer mat with the exact diameter of the tube and place it in it.

2) Now mark the position of the drive hole on the side with a line. The rotor must protrude exactly 135 ° from it (here the rotor is at the top, the nozzle 135 ° to the left below)

3) Now glue the rotor to the rotor marking with a few drops of hot glue. Now just put a piece of Visco in the drive nozzle and the helicopter is ready.

It takes some experience to build a good helicopter to build. The first attempts mostly fail!

To ignite, place the helicopter on the ground with the rotor up put!

- 155 - K nn aa l l l öl sfs fcc rH r e eö

Although belonging to the small fireworks, these represent Fireworks pose a very special challenge. The construction sounds simple, but it takes some practice to get the desired effect later. Many only succeed in these firecrackers after 6-10 attempts.

materials - Cardboard paper or kraft paper - Glue (optional) - Line

Chemicals - gunpowder - Flash (optional)

Manufacturing 1) First you cut the paper into strips. Here 6cm wide and 25cm long strips were used.

2) At the upper end a 1cm wide strip is coated with glue. The black powder is now evenly distributed on it. If you don't want to use glue, you can slightly moisten the black powder with ethanol by adding a little dextrin and spread it out in a strip

- 156 - 3) Then the black powder strip is folded over lengthways. Continue this process until you have a 1cm wide strip of folded paper left. The whole thing is more reminiscent of a piece of Quickmatch.

4) Now put a piece of visco into one end of the strip. Now the strip is folded in a zigzag and tied tightly in the middle with a thin cord.

Whether ethanol or glue was used, the frog should have one Day to be put away to dry / harden!

Explanation The round bent parts (chambers) of the "frog" pop and make the firecrackers jump. The cord in the middle creates a quick match effect. If pulled tight enough, the SP burn will spread between the chambers quickly enough without going out.

At the beginning professionals also pile a little flash powder on the SP strip (50mg). However, they also know how to bend the strip later so that the flash portions are also in the chambers and not in the center of the frog.

- 157 - M. i i lG l lr al ri m mai G m KK nn aa l el lr l re

As you can see from the name, these are very small firecrackers. The lady cracker available in normal stores is probably the best-known form. These firecrackers have a maximum effect charge of 1g. Most of them are equipped with 50mg Flash abroad.

materials - paper (Handkerchief optional) - Visco

Chemicals - Flash (Kind doesn't matter)

Manufacturing 1) First a square piece is cut out of the paper. With a cut piece of handkerchief is also possible. The size of the piece varies, depending on the amount of powder.

2) Then a short piece of visco is placed on the paper. It is folded onto the fuse at the beginning of the paper and the flash is added

- 158 - 3) Now all you have to do is crease and fold the end. If the cracker doesn't hold up, a little tape can be wrapped around it.

- 159 - S. pp aa nn is i ccs H ee ss F.F. ee uu ee rw r ewe rk r k

The so-called Spanish fireworks display is a simple and inexpensive type of active fireworks display. Active means that a person has to get it going and keep it going. However, there is no danger to life and limb. Nevertheless, the instructions shown here should only be carried out on open areas and not in the case of forest fire risk level 5.

If you don't want to mess around with paper and fire, you can just touch the steel wool a few times with a 9V battery and then toss around! The effect is the same! materials - steel wool (almost all subtleties work) (toilet or - paper kitchen paper) - binding wire (available in hardware stores, or close-meshed metal grid) - parcel cord - gloves (normal work gloves)

- 160 - Manufacturing 1) First, a piece of the steel wool is torn off, plucked apart and lightly compressed into a ball the size of a tennis ball. This steel wool ball is wrapped with two to three layers of paper.

2) Then the ball is wrapped with wire so that it looks like a small wire cage. The "meshes" should never be more than 1 cm apart.

If you have a metal grid with a mesh size of less than 1cm, you can bend it into a cage. Finally, attach a small eyelet to the cage with a piece of wire.

3) Finally, attach a 1m long parcel cord to this eyelet.

The ignition The actual launch of the ball requires a certain amount of practice and sensitivity. The ball is lit on the paper. As soon as the paper burns a bit, the steel wool ball is flung around in a circle on the rope.

Vertical! Never wave horizontally over your head!

As a result, at some point the steel wool catches fire and burns up in an impressive shower of sparks. The trick is not to turn so fast at the beginning that the flame goes out, but also not too slowly, otherwise the steel wool won't burn.

- 161 - Once the steel wool glows, you can turn as fast as you can anything goes. The faster, the more impressive the effect!

Flying sparks can damage clothing and skin. So always wear long, old clothes!

There really must not be any flammable objects in the vicinity Sparks can easily penetrate or ignite almost anything!

The battery method also works, but we have found in some tests that the duration of the effect is shorter than with the paper-fire variant!

- 162 - F. OO nn t Ät nÄn ee nn

Fountains are small but impressive pyrotechnic sets. Their construction and mode of operation is very simple and therefore not particularly difficult to reproduce.

The two most important elements of the fountain are the charge on the one hand and the nozzle on the other. The effect charge actually always has to be pressed and enriched with special chemicals or additives in order to achieve a certain effect.

In the case of the fountain, the nozzle determines the shape, strength and direction or extent of the effect. A very small nozzle creates a very high spark effect, but it also carries risks. If too much pressure builds up due to a nozzle that is too small, the fountain can quickly mutate into a firecracker and throw its contents in all directions.

The additives are mostly limited to metal powder and charcoal. Each metal powder gives off sparks of different colors. In the theoretical rubric “Metals, additives and their effects” you can find the individual colors and the necessary subtleties.

materials - sleeve - Drilling machine - hammer - ramming tool - funnel - tape - aluminum foil - Visco

Chemicals - gunpowder - Effect addition - Betonit or cat litter Prepare the effect charge The main part of the effect charge or the set of sparks usually consists of black powder. However, metal powder or other additives are added to this. Charges from or with Whistle Mix also work, there are hardly any limits to the imagination.

- 163 - But if you prefer to produce simple but cheap carbon sparks, the black powder must have a higher proportion of carbon. This ranges from 10-20% of additional weight.

Manufacturing As with many pyrotechnic sets, one side of the tube must first be closed.

1) To do this, you first glue one end of the tube, add some bentonite or powdered cat litter and compact it with a hammer and stick.

2) Now the prepared effect set is added with a funnel and pressed together with the ramming tool. The hydraulic press can also be used if necessary.

- 164 - It should be pressed / rammed at intervals. If you only press when all the powder has been added, the effect will be much weaker later.

Some mixes are so sensitive that you never ram them, but should only press!

A funnel prevents too much effect charge from reaching the Walls got stuck and reacts when pressing!

3) As soon as there is only 1-2cm of space in the pipe, this space is also filled with bentonite and pressed. Optionally you can also use dry M-80 stoppers or the aluminum stoppers of the PVC-Böller.

4) Then a hole is drilled on one side with a narrow drill (from 2mm). How deep you drill is up to you. Some “experts” swear by a rocket soul.

- 165 - An accepted rule of the scene quantifies the diameter of the nozzle with half the diameter of the pipe! But that is also A matter of taste!

If the effect is to go up, the nozzle must also be straight and central. Otherwise it can also be used with oblique or conical Nozzles are experimented!

4) A simple piece of visco is used to ignite. To prevent it from falling out or even being damaged, it can be attached to the sides of the fountain with a little tape.

- 166 - B. l nl i k ki sns Ä t te z z e

Flashing sets are pyrotechnic sets that release intense light effects as they go off. The blinking effect can differ in color, intensity and frequency.

In these instructions, a mixture was used for a bright, white flashing set. This mixture is also suitable for stars, but then a very hot ignition is required (decomposition charge).

Allegedly, too high a frequency should also cause epileptic diseases Seizures have been triggered!

material - Cardboard paper or cardboard - Ball mill, mortar - Mixing vessel

Chemicals - 51g barium nitrate - 19g sulfur - 18g magnalium (100 mesh) - 7g potassium nitrate - 5g of dextrin

Manufacturing 1) First, roll up the cardboard on a stick and secure the sides with a simple layer of tape.

2) All substances except magnalium will be individually in a ball mill or powdered in a mortar.

The quality of the blink set depends on the fineness. All fabrics should be almost as fine as talc powder!

- 167 - 3) Now the degree of fineness of the magnalium is selected. The finer the magnalium, the faster the sentence will burn and blink.

Magnalium with a particle size of 100mesh was used here.

4) Then a 75/25 water-ethanol solution is added so that a thick paste is obtained.

5) This pulp is pressed into the paper roll and placed in a dry place for about 1 week (depending on the diameter of the roll).

6) It is ignited with a strong fuse, a sparkler or a slow flash set.

- 168 - F. ee uu ee rw r ewe rk r d kd ee r rH H öö H ee re r n ne KK la l ssa ss ee nn I. I.

E. in i nle l ie iu t n nt Gu

In this chapter we deal with the supreme discipline of pyrotechnics. Mortars, bullet bombs, and stars require a certain amount of experience. You should be particularly familiar with the manufacture and use of the various types of black powder.

For example, it is advisable to know that there are grains Black powder is better suited as an ejector charge for bullet and cylinder bombs than “flour powder”.

In addition, particularly precise work is an important prerequisite here. The right composition is particularly important when making stars.

The instructions for the mortar should be viewed with caution. Professionally made mortars are always more stable, easier to handle and also freely available to everyone. For the smallest you only pay 5 €, the big ones can get up to 50 €. This is why our further development, the “Hungarian mortar”, is particularly interesting for those on a tight budget.

- 169 - D. ie i HeH ee rs r tse t le ul l n nl Gu vv O nn S.S. te t ren r een nn

Stars are the main component of spherical and cylinder bombs. Each mix creates a different effect; Colors, crackling, spark tails and much more. However, a lot more time, chemicals and experience are required for stars than for flash powder, for example.

There are generally 3 types of star production. You can roll, pump or cut stars. In addition, you always need a mixture of stars as a starting point. We specify one here and assume that it has already been manufactured for the individual methods. So we can do without repeating ourselves every time.

► The star mix

For the instructions for making stars, we decided on the following mixture:

Barium nitrate 50% magnesium 32% PVC 18% 100%

This mixture results in stars that burn green in color. In the following instructions, we assume that all substances have been ground to powder and mixed.

- 170 - ► Rolled stars

Rolled stars are considered to be the most valuable because they are the hardest to make. It requires a certain amount of experience and training to roll really exactly round star balls.

materials - rolling tool (Ball mill, wok, in an emergency: sieve) - atomizer (perfume bottle) - beaker - Newsprint - roll cores

Small peppercorns or tiny, pumped ones can be used as roll kernels Stars are used!

If you don't have a roll drum or the like at hand, you can get the stars also roll in a sieve!

Large stars or stars with different effect layers should first be dried at certain intervals / after each layer. Otherwise it will take a long time later to get all the moisture

escaped!

Chemicals - 100g star mix - gunpowder (Amount as required) humidifying - 3g of dextrin - 50ml of water mixture - 50ml of alcohol

Manufacturing

1) First you mix the water with the alcohol and dextrin. The mixture then goes into a perfume bottle or some kind of atomizer.

- 171 - 2) Now the later cores of the stars (rolling cores) are placed in the drum or a similar rolling tool and mixed with the humidifying mixture

moistened.

3) Under constant rolling is now a added a small part of the star mixture. The stars should slowly grow like a snowball.

4) Now repeat these steps over and over:

Moisten - roll up the star mixture, moisten - roll up the star mixture, moisten - roll up the star mixture.

However, too much moisture should not be used. Only when the stars obviously no longer absorb a mixture of stars should be sprayed again. In the end, even, still moist stars should come out.

5) Once the complete star mix has been rolled onto the stars, one should roll up an outer layer of black powder. The principle of moistening remains the same.

This layer is also called the “firing layer”. Most of it is detonated by the bomb's decomposing charge and ignites the star's underlying effect layers.

- 172 - 6) Finally, lay out the stars on newspaper or on a baking sheet to dry. This process can take hours or 1-2 days. After that, depending on the mixture used, they should look something like the one in the picture above.

- 173 - ► Pumped stars

Small, pumped stars can later be used as the core for rolled stars be used. However, it is an art in itself to get out to make cylindrical stars perfectly round!

materials - beakers - Syringe / PVC pipe - logs (only with a PVC pipe) - Baking tray or pizza plate

Chemicals - 100g star mix - dextrin (2g per 100g star mix) - 25ml of water - 25ml of alcohol

Manufacturing 1) First you take a normal medical syringe from the pharmacy and cut off the tip.

If you don't have a syringe at hand, you can also use a PVC tube (width 0.5-2cm). With this method, however, you also need an exactly fitting round timber to press out the mass later.

2) Now make a mixture of water and ethanol (ratio 50:50). The dextrin is stirred into it.

3) Then add the star mixture to the solution and stir vigorously but carefully for a few minutes. A kind of batter should have formed.

- 174 - 4) To pump the stars, push the syringe or the tube into the mass or vice versa. With the syringe, the mass can now be squeezed out in a cylindrical shape and cut into pieces.

As soon as the star mixture is inside, the PVC pipe must be placed on a smooth surface and the mixture must be pressed / compacted with the round wood. Then you can press the mass out with the round wood and cut into small cylinders just like with the syringe.

- 175 - ► Cut stars

materials - beakers - Knife - Baking tray or pizza plate

Chemicals - 100g star mix - dextrin (2g per 100g star mix) - 50ml of water - 50ml of alcohol

Manufacturing 1) First, prepare a mixture of water and ethanol (ratio 50:50). The dextrin is stirred into it.

2) Then add the star mixture to the solution and stir vigorously but carefully for a few minutes. A kind of batter should have formed.

3) Now the finished dough is rolled out on a baking sheet or pizza plate (0.5 - 1 cm thick) and cut into small cubes with a knife

4) These small cubes are now either dried on the used surfaces or on newspaper. This process can take up to 2 days depending on the thickness of the dough / cube.

No direct sunlight and never dry in the oven!

- 176 - Authors comment There is another method here as well, that of the crushing stars. The dough is not cut directly into cubes, but only scratched with a knife or a fine grid. A ruler does it too.

As soon as the dough is dry, it is broken into cubes or similar along the cracks.

- 177 - D. ee r rM. M. öö rs r ees r r

The mortar, also known as the launch tube or bomb tube, is the basic requirement for the development of large ones Fireworks such as ball and cylinder bombs. Before you start building the bombs, you should already have a functioning mortar available.

Anyone can freely buy professional and high quality mortars on the Internet. However, these quickly become very expensive, especially as the caliber increases.

Self-made mortars made of PVC pipes are of course a cheap and popular alternative. In the hardware store you can find the appropriate materials for almost every caliber for less than 5 €. However, these mortars also have a major disadvantage, their resilience.

So everyone should decide for themselves how much their security is worth to them. Perhaps the perfect compromise is the Hungary mortar we developed.

► The simple PVC mortar

The simple PVC mortar is based on the principle of the PVC firecracker. Only it is open on one side and, with an optimal wall thickness of 3-5mm, is much more stable.

In the instructions, neither length details nor caliber sizes are given. This is due to the large variety of sizes. Every pyrotechnician should already know for himself which caliber size (i.e. diameter of the tube) he needs in order to be able to successfully shoot his charges into the sky. And that a mortar never goes 2m long, but usually never goes beyond 1.20m, should also be clear.

materials - PVC pipe (gray or orange doesn't matter) - aluminum foil - Mortar / hot glue / clay - darning instrument (Round wood etc.)

- 178 - Manufacturing 1) The PVC pipe is cut to the required length. Then you crumple aluminum foil in your fist until the "ball" has reached the size of your fist.

2) This ball is now pressed into the pipe and pressed together with a suitable round wood or something similar. The result is an aluminum stopper that is as hard as stone and that we already know from PVC firecrackers.

3) Similar to the firecracker, the stopper is pushed approx. 5cm into one end of the tube. The short space is now filled with a resistant material.

Mortar and clay can crumble; hot glue has proven to be extreme resistant in all weather conditions!

Never set up the mortar without a fuse. Either partially dig in or put in a wooden frame or beer crate!

Never use Flash as a propellant with this type of mortar!

► The Hungary mortar

The so-called "Hungary mortar" is a construction we developed ourselves, which makes it possible to significantly increase the resistance of a normal PVC mortar.

We got the idea at the European get-together for amateur pyrotechnicians in Hungary in 2009. After a blown gun we lost our only professional mortar and had to fire the remaining, very powerful bombs in a different way. Although our group still had normal PVC mortars with them, these would have burst quickly due to the large discharge loads. But since the ground was frozen rock hard and we didn't have a supporting structure on hand, we got the idea at a local sandpit.

- 179 - materials - PVC mortar - Pipe (closed on one side, min. 3 times the diameter)

- Sand (as dry as possible)

Manufacturing 1) The second pipe is closed on one side (with a lot of mortar Gluing a board is enough in an emergency). But it can also simply be sunk approx. 20cm into the ground.

2) Place the PVC mortar in the middle of this pipe and fill the space between the pipes with sand. In order to theoretically increase the effect, you can cover the bottom with sand before you put the mortar in the pipe.

The sand should be dry and as fine as sandpit sand. Should it get wet, the mortar will push it in every time it is ignited dampening effect dissipates.

Authors comment The changes in the construction compared to the normal mortar are of course banal. What is surprising, however, is the tremendous effect. This construction also enabled us to fire bullet bombs whose ejection charge made the mortar usually destroyed within a few attempts.

Overall, the construction lasted 2 days. Whether sand is also placed between the tube sheets is a matter of opinion, it cannot hurt.

- 180 - K aa r rO t ft fOe f l k fl eaak nn O nn ee nn - - D.D. ie i M.eM. öö rs r ees r re r vv r O e lu l tu tO i nni O??

A potato cannon as a mortar? What seems to many like an unbelievable sacrilege of pyrotechnics has proven to be extremely effective in practice. With a potato cannon you can save yourself the elevator or the discharge charge of black powder, and still get to heights of up to 60m.

There is not much to consider here. Only the correct construction and the caliber size have to be considered. Especially the bomb types need to be adjusted. If a ball bomb does not fit directly into the tube, you can wrap it in a cloth just like old-fashioned cannon balls to build up enough pressure.

Cylinder bombs made from toilet paper rolls, for example, are a little too narrow for a 45mm pipe. To solve this problem, simply wrap the lower part of the bomb with some tape until it rests against the walls of the pipe.

The small bore mortar must never be out of hand (especially with the caliber) to be fired!

If the KK does not ignite, immediately take cover behind something solid!

Gun cracks or other detonations of bombs in the pipe can turn it into a fragmentation bomb.

- 181 - Here we present a tried and tested model and give a few more tips: Model 45mm:

1x PVC pipe Diameter: 45mm Length: 1m

1x reducer Type: From 110mm to 45mm

T-pipe Diameter: 110mm

1x 100mm sleeve

1x end piece

- 182 - The caliber ratio In order to be able to build up a decent pressure later, the ratio between the diameter (caliber) of the tube and the chamber must be correct.

In general, the 2: 1 ratio is ideal. This means that the chamber should be twice the diameter of the pipe. Since there are no 100m and 500mm pipes in the hardware store, you have to divert something. The ratio of 110mm to 45mm has been tested by us and delivers impressive results.

Safe ignition When igniting the KK you should use a piezo ignition. This should be connected to the KK via about 1-2m bell wire. For example, you can place the KK behind a fallen tree, ignite it and still be protected from falling pipes.

What is the stop point? The stop point is to prevent the bombs from sliding into the chamber. It must be small enough not to hinder the pressure and be robust enough not to be destroyed when it is ignited. A small screw is ideal for this.

A small-bore mortar without this point cannot be implemented. A bomb that falls through the chamber transforms it into a fragment bomb ... and PVC fragments are not so easy to recognize on X-rays.

- 183 - The ideal place for the screw is right at the transition from Reducer to the pipe.

In this way you can remove the pipe from the rest of the KK at any time and you don't always have to unscrew the screws first.

The screw should be about 1-2cm long and 3mm wide.

Correct use of the small-bore mortar In total there are only 2 good uses. After all, the bomb must ignite when it leaves the tube and not fall to the ground uneventfully.

method 1 This method is the simpler one, but unfortunately it is also very prone to misfiring. When the bomb "stands" in the tube and the KK is ignited, the flame of the fuel should ignite this fuse.

This also works in general. Visco just tends not to ignite. Either the flame in the chamber is not intense / long enough, or so strong that the fuse is blown out again immediately.

- 184 - method 2 This method has a success rate of almost 100%, but requires 2 people for a relaxed process.

First of all, the chamber is filled with the respective gas and sealed. Then the fuse is lit immediately and the bomb is "thrown" into the tube with the fuse first. Either the sparks from the fuse ignite the gas from the chamber at the stopping point, or a piezo ignition is used.

This variant is very stressful on its own, so 2 people are ideal. Person A fills the chamber, closes it and takes the KK ignition in his hand.

Person B ignites the bomb's fuse as soon as Person A is done. B lets the bomb slide into the tube with the fuse first (everyone has seen it with the military mortar).

If the fuse fails to ignite the gas, Person A presses the fuse and the bomb is shot into the sky.

- 185 - Common problems and questions

There are gray and orange pipes in the hardware store, which ones should I use? to take? The gray pipes are best, they offer an ideal ratio of fire resistance and flexibility. Orange or black pipes are also possible, but are only the second choice.

I've put all the parts of the KK together, does it hold up or do I have to reinforce the whole thing? Simply plugging the KK together is sufficient, but always tends to be dismembered. This means that some parts (especially the reducer and the end piece) keep flying off and become projectiles. So you simply screw the whole KK with a few screws.

Screws peek out in the chamber, so be careful reach in or grind the ends!

- 186 - The lid of the T-piece always comes off, what should I do? This problem occurs quite often, both with the cover of the T-piece and with the end piece. There is a simple solution for both.

First you take the lid of the chamber and remove the mostly black rubber ring (the seal). This is replaced by a proper silicone seal. If you don't have silicone at hand, you can just leave it in there.

The most important thing is to reinforce the lid. You saw out a round piece of wood 1 cm thick and fasten it with a few screws on the inside of the lid and the end piece. As a result, the lid can no longer burst and, in conjunction with a silicone seal, hardly flies off the KK.

- 187 - Z yy l nl i d di een rb r Ob mm b ee nn

Cylinder bombs are among the simplest bombs to make. Just like They consist of bullet bombs with the effect body and a lift that shoots them into the sky.

With simple cylinder bombs, the lift sits under the body and is ignited there by a fuse.

Multi-stroke cylinder bombs have two Ignitions. With them, the first effect charge is ignited at the top, on the loop, shortly after the lift was ignited. This can be implemented by using normal Visco and Quickmatch.

This complicated model can also be recreated fairly easily. All you have to do is glue several small cylinder bombs (half toilet rolls) on top of each other and connect them with a piece of visco or a delay igniter.

materials - Empty toilet roll - tape - logs (optional, diameter = toilet roll) - Visco

Chemicals - Stars - Flash - gunpowder

- 188 - Manufacturing 1) First the toilet roll is closed on one side with tape or a narrow piece of round wood (0.3-0.5 cm wide). Your small hole for the visco is drilled into this closure.

Unlike ball bombs, cylinder bombs break faster because of their construction at the transition point to the lift. Either you use extremely strong duct tape or a really narrow one

Piece of log!

The logs should still be attached to the inside with glue or hot glue Toilet roll to be attached!

2) Then you put a piece of visco through these holes that goes to the middle of the toilet roll. If the bomb is to be detonated in the middle, the piece must of course be wrapped with tape or something else.

3) Now it's time to fill. As with the spherical bombs, you can build hollow and massive cylinder bombs:

Hollow The stars are only piled up on the wall of the toilet roll, the cylindrical space in the middle with the piece of visco is filled with a decomposing charge

Solid The entire room of the toilet roll is filled with stars. Fast flash powder comes between the stars. If the gaps are well filled, the flash will later tear the spherical bomb apart, ignite the stars and at the same time distribute them in the air.

- 189 - Both variants work, but the one with a decomposer charge the effect is usually more extensive!

4) Then the upper side is also closed with some tape. If necessary, you can also wrap some tape around the roll.

5) Finally, a lift comes to the bottom of the bomb (fuse from the bomb should also go through the lift and ignite it).

A simple bag of black powder works just as well. With this variant, however, you should shorten the fuse of the bomb a little and put it in the bag.

In order to ignite the fuse underneath the bomb, without reaching a cavity between the bomb and the mortar wall the fuse simply connected to a piece of Quickmatch!

- 190 - K uu G ee lb l Ob mm b ee nn

Due to their shape, spherical bombs are not as easy to make as cylinder bombs. The easiest way is to put plaster paper or something similar around a ball of the appropriate size in order to get the round cover later.

Commercially produced sleeves from the Internet are of course easier. If you are lucky you can buy large quantities for little money in auction houses. With them you can fully concentrate on the load without having to worry about the case.

Purchased covers have always been used in our instructions. First we go into the actual "body", and then the propellant charge (lift) of a ball bomb. We also differentiate between 2 different types of bodies, the massive and the hollow.

Which model you choose doesn't really matter, depending on what resources you have available. Both models were able to convince in practice. The caves may spread the stars a little further and wider than the massive ones, but that is a matter of taste.

► M. aa ss ss iv i eev KK uu G ee lb l Ob mm b ee nn

Explanation The difference between the massive spherical bombs and the hollow ones is quite simple. The massive ones do not have a central decomposing charge, so they are completely filled with effect stars or anything else and are therefore massive in our eyes.

But even without this central decomposing charge, they create an impressive effect in the night sky. Because the spaces between the stars are used as small decomposing charges by means of flash.

- 191 - materials - spherical sleeves - Visco - Tape or hard paper

Chemicals - Stars (or other effect charge) - Flash (best Kmno4 Flash)

Manufacturing 1) Bought sleeves usually already have a hole in one half for the fuse. If this is not the case, first a small hole is drilled in one of the halves and a piece of visco is inserted through it

Shortly before and / or after the cover, the fuse is reinforced with 3-4 layers of thin tapes.

2) After that, both halves are filled with the stars. The stars should be as close together as possible.

3) Now the space between the stars is filled with the flash. You can also lift a few upper stars in order to fill the spaces between the lower stars 100%.

- 192 - 4) Now both halves are put together and wrapped with a few layers of tape or hard paper. This closes, seals and seals the ball

reinforced at the same time.

Now all that would be missing would be a lift to shoot the ball bomb out of the mortar.

► H O HH le l KeK uu G ee lb l Ob mm b ee nn

Explanation As already mentioned with the massive spherical bombs, the hollow spherical bombs have a centrally attached dismantling charge. This ignites the effect stars and at the same time spreads them around the area.

materials - spherical sleeves - Visco - Handkerchief - Tape or hard paper

Chemicals - Stars (or other effect charge) - dismantling charge (see theory: decomposing charge) - Flash

- 193 - Manufacturing 1) Bought sleeves usually already have a hole in one half for the fuse. If this is not the case, first a small hole is drilled in one of the halves and a piece of visco is inserted through it

Shortly before and / or after the cover, the fuse is reinforced with 3-4 layers of thin tapes

2) The stars are now stacked on the edges of the two halves. This should automatically form a spherical hollow in the middle. The fuse must necessarily reach through the paper, preferably to the edge of the envelope.

This is now covered with a handkerchief. This is to prevent the decomposing charge from later being distributed in the spaces between the stars. This would shift the stars and the decomposing charge could slip and no longer fill a central point.

- 194 - 3) Now these hollows are filled with the deboning charge. The two halves should end smoothly at their edge. Here grains of rice were used that were coated with black powder. Similar to the principle of star rolling.

Put a layer of flash powder around one on both halves to achieve the ideal cutting effect!

4) Lastly, the bomb is sealed, just like the massive one. You may have to press a little when bringing the halves together.

- 195 - ► D. ee r r L.L. i i f f t t

The discharge charge, also known as a lift, consists mostly of granulated black powder and shoots the bomb into the sky. Care should be taken that there is no free space between the wall of the mortar and the bomb. Otherwise, most of the lift's energy will be dissipated and the bomb will only be thrown 3-5.

materials - Toilet roll - tape

Chemicals - gunpowder (1/10 of the bomb weight)

Manufacturing 1) Depending on the size of the bomb, an empty toilet roll is cut in half and wrapped with 3 layers of tape on top.

Half of the tape should protrude as you can see here.

- 196 - 2) Then the protruding part of the tape is cut into small strips and the ball bomb is placed on the roll. The fuse in this picture is shortened. Usually it is longer, so that it detonates both the elevator and the bomb.

3) Now the strips are folded onto the ball, wrapped in tape a few more times and then the black powder is poured into the roll.

The lift should always have an SP load that is about 1 tenth the weight of the bomb.

A 200g bomb is given a lift with at least 20g black powder, usually a little more (30g).

- 197 - G H O ss tm t mi ni ene ss

materials - Steel mortar - detonator

Chemicals - Propellant charge (e.g. from black powder) - methanol (Petrol works too) - Additions (see below)

comment The mortar should be cleaned after each launch, otherwise the chemicals from the previous load can render the next one unusable or undesirably change it.

We simply built several mortars and each one always had the same mixture.

The mortar must also be absolutely tight at the bottom, just like the propellant charge.

Manufacturing The mortars are filled to about 2/3. It is important that the mortars are always cleaned well, especially in the case of ghost mines, otherwise chemical residues will contaminate the effect the next time.

The propellant charge is 70 grams of 2FA black powder. The e-detonator is put in a small nylon bag together with the black powder. This is then tightly closed, whereby as much air as possible should get out of the bag. The whole thing is then wrapped several times with adhesive tape that is as chemical-resistant as possible until a compact, tight package is created. This can then be made 100% sealed with epoxy if necessary.

The chemicals are simply stirred into the alcohol. Care must be taken that the stick used for stirring, etc. does not contaminate the next mine.

- 198 - The propellant charge is sunk into the mortar just before ignition.

The mortar can also be filled with petrol (approx. 1/3 diesel). This is called a gas mine.

additions According to our sources, there are 7.56 liters of methanol / petrol:

colour Chemicals red Lithium chloride 100g or 100g strontium chloride 100g KNO3 dissolved in water (weak color) 5cm 3 Denatured alcohol with 0.4g strontium nitrate or calcium nitrate green Boric acid 100g or 100g borax yellow Sodium chloride 100g (simply perfectly normal table salt) And possibly 100g ammonium chloride purple Potassium iodide 100g blue 12g copper chloride + 400ml methylene chloride 50g lithium violet chloride and 50g strontium chloride 50g magnesium chloride White and 50g zinc chloride

- 199 - B. aa t te t r t ree if e if e uue ee rw r ewe rk r k

Battery fireworks (actually wrongly) belong to the premier class of self-made fireworks. The opinion, accepted almost everywhere, is that such constructions would be far too expensive and complicated.

There is a simple principle behind these batteries, and with just a little money you can achieve extraordinary results. The instructions presented here are of course not a feast for the eyes in the sky, but serve as a perfect template for your own considerations.

After all, there are almost infinite variations in construction, the effect and ejection charge (lift).

materials - shoebox - pods - funnel - hammer - Rammer (Wooden stick) - Duct tape - Drilling machine

Chemicals - black powder (granulated) - Stars (Shape doesn't matter) - Cat litter or aluminum stoppers

Preparations The preparations are particularly important in this work. You shouldn't have to rummage everything back together after every single launch tube, but aim for series production.

All of the following steps should therefore be carried out 10 times in a row before going to the next step.

- 200 - Get the launch tubes ready The tubes should be made of a stable material. Though strong cardboard would be enough, our preferred PVC tubes from the hardware store are preferable to these.

You can choose the diameter and wall thickness as well as the length yourself. Cardboard tubes are used in this tutorial!

90mm long / 4mm wall thickness / 10mm inner diameter!

1) First you glue one end of the tube shut, add some betonite or powdered cat litter and compress it with a hammer and stick.

2) The tape can then be removed. The soil should now be rock-hard and dense.

Optionally, the aluminum plugs from chapter "PVC-Böller" are used!

- 201 - 3) Now you drill a hole with a 2mm diameter just above the plug through the tube with a drill.

Before, preferably several times test how big the stoppers are with different amounts of powder will.

Due to their exact size, aluminum stoppers show their advantages here!

4) Finally, you pull a corresponding length of Visco through each tube and put it wall to wall like on a pearl necklace.

The pearl necklace is now rolled up so that you get a "cake" like in the picture. To stabilize the whole thing is wrapped a little tape

Only used for stability when filling, after filling the tubes you can remove the tape and arrange the tubes as you like or leave it like that for round batteries!

No force should be used when pulling through the fuse. Especially fast / thin fuses are often very sensitive and could tear!

- 202 - Load the tubes The tubes are now loaded. This should be done with caution and common sense. Of course, the “cake” is placed on a stable surface beforehand.

For a better overview a single tube has been loaded here!

1) First, the ejection charge (lift) is placed in the tube. To do this, measure 1.5g of black powder and pour it through a funnel into the tube.

Before doing this, you should try out how much powder you really need on a single tube and with a few stars!

Optionally, you can now “ram” a little!

2) Then 1-2 stars are placed in the tube. The smaller the stars, the more naturally go in.

Never fill the tube more than halfway!

If there are many small stars or micro stars, a little SP has to be poured afterwards. By gently shaking the tube, it is then distributed into the

Spaces.

- 203 - 3) In order to achieve a decent level of effect, pressure must of course also build up in the end.

This is achieved by shaping a piece of handkerchief or the like into a ball or a stopper (solid) and pressing it into the tube with the ram.

Push, don't ram!

Now you can put the tubes in a box and the fuse light on the first tube. The result is a little one Battery fireworks!

Reloading It would be incredibly expensive if you could only use the tubes once. Purchased, pyrotechnic tubes and

However, PVC tubes can often be reused.

All you have to do is put the tube in a drill press Clamp in and use a drill to “drill empty” into the inside.

- 204 - I.m I. m p r Or vOv is i ise i re re tr tr N eN ee bb ee lw l wee r re fr f r e

A fog thrower in pyrotechnics? What is valid like the greatest sacrilege since the "Thunderbolt" (see Volume 1) is in reality an ingenious effect charge for rockets and bombs.

To achieve such a good effect, you need a lot of material. The size and “force” of the rocket / bomb increases accordingly. That is why we have classified these instructions as "higher fireworks", and amazed eyes are guaranteed in any case.

However, we only explain the production of the smoke effects here. The structure itself is the same as a normal rocket / bomb and can be read in the complete works. Instead of stars, the individual effects are simply used here.

To be able to build this effect, you have to read the chapters "Rockets" and Master "bombs" safely!

- 205 - Method 1 - Smoke Balls Anyone who has thrown a smoke in the air will also have noticed that it pulls a tail behind it when it falls. This slowly spreads in the direction of the wind. So it makes sense to use effect charges made from normal KNO sugar smokemixes. With an exploding KNO sugar rocket you can see the principle even more clearly:

This principle works amazingly well. The KNO sugar pieces just have to be big enough. Small pieces burn down within seconds and barely reach the ground, depending on the height of the rocket / bomb.

Manufacturing 1) You make the normal KNO sugar mix (by melting it together) and pour it into small round molds. Cylindrical shapes or thick floor blobs also work.

2) As soon as the pieces are only lukewarm, they are coated with black powder. You can roll them like stars, simply sprinkle them with SP or toss them around in a container with SP.

It takes some practice to know when to add SP. If the mass is already too cold, the SP will not stay on for long the pieces stick!

3) Since KNO attracts water, the still warm pieces are packed airtight (ideally shrink-wrapped) or used immediately.

- 206 - Method 2 - HC smoke mix of the US Army The HC Rauchmix is still used by the US Army today. It is a mixture of hexachloroethane (HC), zinc oxide and aluminum powder. For beginners it is difficult to get hold of hexachloroethane. But if you can do it, you get a slow burning powder that makes thick smoke.

Chemicals - 45g hexachloroethane - 45g zinc oxide - 10g aluminum powder (German / Black / Dark Alu)

Manufacturing 1) All materials are dry ground to a talc powder. The aluminum powder must be at least as fine as German Dark Alu.

2) Then the substances are mixed into a homogeneous mixture and this is pressed into small cylinders with a hydraulic press.

Rolling doesn't work here, pressing is almost the only option!

You can try binders like dextrin. However, the Chemicals get wet and have to dry!

3) The fragmentation charge of the rocket / bomb must consist of strong flash because the mixture is difficult to ignite despite the fine aluminum powder. Flash between the cylinders improves ignitability.

- 207 - F. ee uu ee r wr we r kr dkd ee r rH H öö H ee r er nne KK l al sas ss ee nn I. I. I. I. B.- - OB. mm b ee nn

E. in i nle l ie iu t n nt Gu

Due to the high demand from the scene, we offer a category with practical instructions for the most common shells. Because not all shells are the same. In practical use, the construction and arrangement of the substances involved is decisive for the subsequent effect.

The chapter contains the following instructions:

- Aerial Shell (2 "Sphere) - Chrysanthemum Shell (3 ") - Double Petal Shell (6 ") - Falling Leaf Shell (1 "Sphere) - Ü-Egg Shell

The most important thing about the instructions is your own creativity. Recreating is great, but rarely fills you with pride. The best thing to do is to experiment a bit and change sizes, quantities and arrangements according to your own wishes. Often new types of shell are developed in this way, which produce an even better and unique effect.

The sleeves for bullet bombs can be bought freely on the Internet. But you can also make them yourself with a little effort. The sizes are always given in inches (“). 1 "are 2.5 cm. An Aerial Shell 2 "has a diameter of 5cm (2 x 2" = 5cm). If you don't want to keep calculating, you can simply look up our table.

Basic knowledge of shells (bullet and cylinder bombs) as well as lifts (ejection charges) and black powder grains should be available be!

- 208 - F. aa l l nl lG i L. iL. n ee aa f f S.S. HH ee l l l 1l (” ( ”1 ) )

Falling Leaf Shells are probably the smallest shells in the world. With a diameter of only 1 ", that is, 2.5 cm, they are hardly suitable for use with stars. That is why they usually contain a special type of fuse. In rare cases they are just filled with Flash.

By using this special type of fuse, the effect of slowly falling leaves is created. If you were to use normal visco, you would have the effect of fast-flying sparks / fish.

materials - 1 “round bowl, plastic - 15cm Falling Leaf Fuse per shell - 5cm normal visco - Scissors

- measuring spoon

Chemicals - gunpowder (granulated) - xylene (optional)

- 209 - Manufacturing 1. First, the 15cm long Falling Leaf Fuse piece is cut into 0.5-1cm pieces. As always, you should cut at a 45 ° angle.

2. These small pieces are now placed in the upper half of the round bowl. The lower half remains empty for the time being.

3. Now insert the piece of visco into the lower half and fix it with a little hot glue. Then you fill them with a small amount of black powder.

Do not fill completely to the brim!

4. Finally, both halves are quickly pushed together and sealed with a few drops of xylene.

The finished shells are often placed in ball and cylinder bombs, there a single shot in the mortar would be too expensive!

- 210 - A. ee r ra il li S. S.a HH ee l l l 2l (" (" S. 2S. pp H ee re r )e )

The so-called aerial shell, also known as the “plastic aerial shell” (shell is often made of plastic), is the simplest and cheapest form of the spherical bomb. It usually only contains an outer row of stars that is scattered and ignited by a central decomposing charge. In order to keep the instructions clear, we will only speak of the "plastic shell" from here on.

Materials - Ball bomb shell, 2 " - fuse - Kraft paper / paper tape - Handkerchief

Chemicals - Stars - dismantling charge - Xylene (optional)

Manufacturing 1. First a 5cm long piece of visco is cut off and wrapped in the middle with an approx. 2cm wide strip of paper tape.

2. The wrapped phone is now through the hole in the lower half of the spherical shape pushed.

So that the piece really holds, you should glue it to the

Fasten the inside.

- 211 - 3. When the cover is ready, both halves are placed on an empty toilet roll. So you no longer have to hold it in one hand during the next steps.

(below) (above) 4. The stars (whether round or cylindrical) are now lined up in both halves along the wall. One layer promises the best effect with such small shells.

The piece of visco should reach from the stars to the center of the lower half in order to be able to ignite the decomposing charge later!

5. Afterwards, a small carving charge is placed in a piece of handkerchief. (H3, Whistle Mix etc.) Here rice hulls coated with black powder are used. A little whistle mix adds to the load.

- 212 - 6. The package is folded into a ball in your hand (it should later fit in the center of the halves). A hole is cut in one side and the side with the hole is placed in the lower shell half so that the fuse comes into contact with the decomposing charge.

- 213 - 7. Finally, both halves are pushed into one another. Most bought shells have a transition for this. Putting it together takes a bit of practice, but after a few tries it works quickly and safely.

Without fastening, the two halves would be torn apart at takeoff. So you push the covers you bought a little apart (1mm), trickle a little xylene into the gap all around and press them together again.

But if you don't have xylene or you can make the covers yourself Wrap a little kraft paper or tape around the seam!

- 214 - C. HH ry r ssy aa nn t Ht eHe mm u mm S.S. HH ee l l l 3l (" ( "3 ) )

Chrysanthemum shells are shells with a special kind of stars. These stars pull a tail rich in sparks behind them. That's why you can use Tiger Tails for this star.

This shell is also the first with a built-in propellant or ejector charge at the bottom. With the Arial Shells, this was simply placed underneath.

So there is also the difficulty of finding the right discharge charge. This must neither be too strong nor too weak. We have of course mapped a solution for this problem in the course of the instructions.

materials - Ball bomb shell, 3 " - Visco / E-Match - Kraft paper - hot glue - Handkerchiefs

Chemicals - 75g Tiger Tail Stars, pumped - gunpowder (fine) - dismantling charge (SP rice husks) - Propellant charge (15-20g granulated SP)

- 215 - Manufacturing 1. The first steps are the same as with the Aria Shell. A piece of fuse is cut, wrapped in paper tape and put through the hole in the lower half of the mold.

This time, however, attaching the visco to the inner bottom of the bowl with hot glue is mandatory. Otherwise the strong ejection charge could tear off the ignition connection or part of the bomb's contents could trickle out.

2. Now the two halves are placed on empty toilet rolls so that they do not roll away when filling.

To ensure better stability, split toilet rolls should be used. Simply cut through in the middle.

- 216 - 4. Now the stars are stacked in one layer on the walls. A round hollow should be formed in the center of the shell, this is important later so that the decomposing charge triggers a uniform effect.

A piece of paper tissue is then placed in each of these hollows and lightly pressed against the stars. When the paper is in contact with all the stars, the decomposing charge (here SP rice hulls) is added.

5. Put a light breeze of whistle mix or flash powder in the center and spread it a little with your fingers. This boosts the decomposition charge a bit, a little booster so to speak.

Never use too much or only use flash instead of SP decomposer charges. Too much flash can later destroy the stars or make them “blind” (the stars do not ignite due to the great force in the sky)!

- 217 - 6. After that, both halves with one quick motion

squeezed together and wrapped around the equator with a little paper tape.

The fuse should also be wrapped with a little tape for the time being to protect it from damage during the next steps.

7. The shell would not burst evenly later, so it still has to be packed. For this, stripes of paper and a certain “wheat paste” are used (see page XXX).

This is evenly applied to paper strips (75x15mm) with a brush. applied. Then the strips are applied to the shell in a specific order:

1. A strip from the north to the south pole 2. A strip from the south to the north pole 3. A strip between the two poles

Repeat these steps until you are around your body.

Now you have a shift. A total of about 9 layers are required for this shell.

Air bubbles should be identified early with a ruler or set square be pushed out!

- 218 - The lift The lift (the discharge charge) is decisive for the success of the bullet bomb. Of course, you could just pack a bag of black powder and the shell, but the method given here is more professional. In addition, later you only need to put the bomb in the mortar and no longer have to handle SP.

1) First you need a cylindrical body made of cardboard or strong paper. The diameter is between 70 and 80% of the bomb.

Exact sizes can hardly be determined, since the width and height of the cylinder depend on the size of the bomb, the weight and the used Discharge mixture depends!

2) A small hole is drilled in one side of the cylinder (almost on the floor) and put the ignition in there.

Quickmatch is of course an advantage here, as it is so narrow that it hardly interferes with filling mortars.

However, an electric igniter is used in this manual. The thin wires do not interfere either. Also is a

sensible e-igniter always more reliable than Quickmatch.

- 219 - 3) Then the ejection charge comes into the cylinder. The bullet bomb in this example weighs 150g. The rule of thumb for the size of the ejection charge is 10-13% of the bomb weight.

So 15-18g black powder are needed.

If you have black powder that burns very quickly, 15g granulated SP is sufficient. Even

Established or slow SP is mostly weaker; then 18g or even 20g is used.

The chat powder must be finely granulated. Dust-free SP is not enough out!

4) Now you "place" the bomb with the visco end down on the cylinder. The transition between the bomb and the cylinder is sealed all around and fastened with a little hot glue.

The Quickmatch or the E-detonator should also be led up along the bomb with a few strips of paper tape.

- 220 - Embellishment (optional) The bullet bomb would be ready, but it only looks mediocre professional. A cover for the transition between the bomb and the cylinder would be desirable.

1) First, a long piece of kraft paper is cut every 2cm with a 2cm deep cut. The whole thing then looks like a series of plates.

2) This strip is now smeared with a thin adhesive film or the "paste" and placed once around the cylinder. The incised flaps come to the shell.

3) Now press evenly for about 5 minutes and let the shell dry for a total of 1-3 days (depending on room conditions).

4) This is what the shell should look like at the end, the sticker is just an optional addition.

The little knob on the top right is just a special effect for the actual bullet bomb

is unnecessary and has therefore been left out by us.

- 221 - D. O uu bb le l PeP ee ta t l al S.S. HH ee l l l l 6th( ( 6th " " ) )

The Petal Shells are the top tier of ball bombs on the scene for the time being. There are more complicated types of bombs, but hardly anyone can get beyond the petal shells.

"Petal" means something like "petals". This means the pattern of the inside of the ball bomb, as well as the pattern of the explosion.

The special thing about this type of bomb is the internal structure. Inside the bomb shell there are several layers of different stars. In the middle there is usually a load of stars mixed with one

Dismantling charge.

The type of stars of the outermost petal (chrysanthemum or peony stars) determines the name of the bomb.

The specified size of 6 "for this type of bomb is not binding. It is quite possible to build smaller, but also larger bombs of this type. Only 6 "is simply the standard size.

- 222 - materials - Bomb shells: 1 x 6 "(150mm, strong material, plastic PVC) 1 x 3 "(75mm, thin paper cups) - Handkerchiefs - scalpel - Visco

Chemicals - Blue stars ¾ " - Red stars ¾ " - White stars ½ " - gunpowder - dismantling charge (Corn kernels, rice kernels with black powder Sheathing)

The stars For this shell, the shape of the stars doesn't matter. Use both rolled and pumped stars. In this example. Cylindrical pumped stars used. The big, blue and red stars make up the outer layer. The white, smaller stars form the center of the shell.

- 223 - Manufacturing

Part 1 - Construction of the bomb shells 1) First you put the 6 "bomb shells on a suitable platform. Toilet rolls like the other Shell are too small for a diameter of 15cm. It is best to use small pieces of 100mm HT pipes (gray PVC pipes from the hardware store)

2) Then you drill a hole in the lower bomb shell (if not available).

This should have the diameter of the fuse.

The choice of fuse is particularly important with petal shells.

The fuse for this shell must generally be a little slower run off as normal visco. So you use "Time Fuse" or wrap the piece of Visco with a hose etc. The piece should be 1.75 - 2 cm long and cut off with a scalpel.

3) Now you put the fuse halfway into the bowl and fix it with hot glue.

- 224 - 4) The Time Fuse is so naturally much too short to reach the center. A small plastic hose from the hardware store does this job.

However, it must not only reach to the upper edge of the lower shell (cut to size), but also ignite the decomposer / ignition charge in the outer star layer.

To do this, drill 1cm in front of the end of the hose, which we connected to the Time Fuse a small hole

5) The "Time Fus End" is pressed onto the Time Fuse end and attached / sealed with a little hot glue.

6) The lower hole is then closed with a small piece of adhesive paper tape and finely granulated black powder is filled into the tube. At the end this is also closed with a piece of tape at the top.

The black powder in the hose later burns like lightning. This is how the central decomposition charge and the one between the outer layers become ignited almost at the same time!

- 225 - Part 2 - loading and arranging the stars The bowls are ready so far, now the stars have to be brought in. We're using blue, red, and white stars here. The red ones go into the lower shell, the blue ones into the upper part.

1) First you arrange the stars on the walls of the 6 ”bomb shell. You should only apply one layer of stars in total. As usual, a round cavity is formed in the middle.

The stars must not look over the edge of the respective half. Otherwise the halves will not fit together later!

2) Then spread a little black powder (fine as dust) on this layer of stars and line the interior with one handkerchief per half.

The side hole in the hose should now be slightly above the Handkerchief layer lying!

3) The cutting charge of SP grains is now placed in the halves of the handkerchief. You shouldn't use too much, because a weak 3 ”bomb shell has to be in the center

- 226 - 4) This is simply pressed in the middle and turned a little. In this way, the decomposing charge is distributed evenly around the shell. A total thickness of 1.5-2.5cm decomposing charge at each point is optimal.

5) Now the white stars are arranged in the inner bomb shell (1 layer). In the middle comes a normal rice grain carving load with a good pinch of whistle mix.

The handkerchiefs and the inner bomb shell must of course be one Have a hole for the ignition hose!

- 227 - Part 3 - Folding the Shell Folding a ball bomb of this size is quite difficult. It does take some practice and / or the right technique. At all costs you have to prevent the different layers from mixing up when you fold them up. The decomposing charge should not fall out of the center either.

Method 1 - paper cover This method is simple and reliable. Because we cleverly didn't fill the shell over the top. Can you put a strong sheet of cardboard paper on each half. The sheet should lie tight and even; at the edge it can be temporarily attached with a little tape.

If the sheet is strong enough and stretched tight enough, you can comfortably press the halves of the bomb together (with 2 people or a vice). Now just loosen the leaves and slowly pull them out, and both halves are together.

This method is suitable for beginners. When pulling out the Paper, the dismantling load can sometimes slip!

Method 2 - tip over Only experienced pyrotechnicians should dare to attempt this process. It takes tact and a lot of practice to master this method perfectly.

First you should make sure that the "lips" of the half-shells are clean. Remnants of SP or debris from decomposing only bothers later. Then you take one half in each hand and carefully tip it at a 45 ° angle. The bottom edges should now be touching.

With one quick movement you can now tilt both halves together.

There is no better description, this method is simply a matter of practice! The easiest thing to do is to build smaller practice bombs and practicing folding it up. Instead of stars and a carving charge, you simply use marbles and grains of rice!

- 228 - Part 4 - Completion 1) Now you close the shell like the others before. You push the halves a few millimeters apart, and drizzle a few drops of Xylene all around the gap.

2) Then you squeeze the half again and wait 5 minutes. To get the disguise done later, you can cover the middle of each side with a few strips of tape.

3) Then the bomb is covered with kraft paper according to the old tradition:

1. A strip from the north to the south pole 2. A strip from the south to the north pole 3. A strip between the two poles

- 229 - Your 6 “shell requires 12-16 layers of kraft paper all around the shell!

If using Kraft paper that is 40-50lb thick, you need you only have 10-12 layers!

4) Finally, you have to calculate the correct amount of lift. To do this, the shell is weighed on a precision scale. This shell weighs 1100-1300g, depending on the composition and number of stars.

5) The ejection charge must therefore be 130g, preferably finely granulated black powder. It's always better to take a little more than too little, as long as you don't overdo it

6) The ejection charge is fastened under the bomb just like the Chrysanthemum. The ignition is done by an electric igniter.

- 230 - Ü - E.- E. i iS. S. HH ee l l l l

Shells made from Ü-eggs are small but effective and inexpensive. On the one hand, you save yourself the shell molds you have bought, and you also get enough space to achieve a good effect.

Firing these small shells individually from a mortar is too time-consuming. That is why they are often stacked in large cylinder bombs and blown apart by a central dismantling charge. However, the eggs need a sturdy fuse that is connected to the cutting charge of the cylinder bomb.

materials - Ü-egg - Kraft paper (optional) - Visco - paper tape

Chemicals - Stars - H3 or SP

Manufacturing 1. Just like with almost any other shell, one piece is made The fuse is cut to size, wrapped in paper tape and put through a previously drilled hole in the lower half of the egg.

2. Unlike the other Shell, there is no central decomposition charge here. The stars (small colored stars or tiger tails are perfect) are placed in the egg layer by layer and the spaces between them are filled with SP or H3.

3. When both halves are full, the egg is quickly folded up and covered with a little kraft paper. But tape is also possible.

- 231 - additive In the English scene, a certain mix of stars is often used in these little shells. It comes from someone named Shimizu and develops an effective silver sparkle tail, even when it is small

Shimizu's Silver Falls

aluminum 49 Potassium nitrate 41 Dextrin 6th sulfur 4th Boric acid (optional) + 1

- 232 - E. f fe f kk f tee t e

T i Gi Gee r rT T aa i i l l

The so-called Tiger Tail is a mixture which was developed by Takeo Shimizu. This effect leaves a long trail of burning sparks in the sky, and is mainly used in rockets to leave an orange tail as the rocket ascends. In order to reach the fire tail, the KNO3 must be in a solution, which is then absorbed by the coal. A wet manufacturing process must be used for this / a wet mixing process must take place.

material - Mortar / coffee grinder - Container for mixing - ball mill

Chemicals - potassium nitrate - charcoal - sulfur - dextrin - Isopropyl alcohol / Allegedly, alcohol / denatured alcohol also works

relationship To save yourself the conversion, you should simply make exactly 100g of the mixture. Then the information in percent is also the information in weight.

Chemicals percent Potassium nitrate 44 Charcoal 44 sulfur 6th Dextrin 6th >> 100

- 233 - Manufacturing 1) Each component is individually ground in a mortar or with a coffee grinder until it is as fine as possible (as fine as dust).

2) Then the ingredients must be mixed together extremely well. This process can take over half an hour.

3) Now the normal star-making principle comes into play. The tiger tail mix is either rolled or pumped / pressed.

When preparing the stars, use a mixture of 75% water and 25% isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol helps the charcoal to absorb the KNO3 solution by reducing the

Surface tension of the water, thereby allowing the solution to penetrate more coal pores.

The drying time of the mixture is also reduced as alcohol evaporates faster than water.

Summary Pine charcoal works very well for this mix. Pine charcoal is used to get nicer sparks, while willow charcoal ultimately makes the effect longer. Alternatively, other hard charcoals such as beech can be used for a long effect.

The best results are known when all components are thoroughly mixed and this is easily achieved with a ball mill. Any water soluble binder can be used, mostly dextrin because it works well and is readily available.

- 234 - C. ra r cca kk l nl iG i (n ( D.D. ra r Ga O nn 's ' E.sE. GG G ss ) )

The effect of crackling is well known to many from New Year's rockets and batteries. In addition to crackling, there is usually a visual light effect.

The production of these small stars (mostly only 0.5cm tall) is very simple and does not rely on any fixed technology. You can pump, roll and crush them. Rolling ministers requires a certain amount of experience, however.

But of course it is easier to produce them in granulate form. These granules are just as effective as the rolled mini stars, but easier to manufacture. That is why granulating is the normal procedure here.

Lead tetraoxide is one of the most dangerous substances in pyrotechnics. He is very sensitive and highly toxic. Beginners prefer to stick with it Bismuth trioxide!

The granulate from the following mixtures should definitely be integrated into stars such as Tiger Tails and not simply ignited openly. It can be integrated particularly well into pumped stars!

- 235 - Proven mixtures

Dragon's Eggs Basis: bismuth trioxide Bismuth trioxide 75 Magnalium (200 mesh) 15th Iron (II) oxide (black) 10 Aluminum (200 mesh) + 5% by weight Nitrocellulose varnish 10% of the total

Dragon's Eggs Basis: lead tetraoxide Lead tetraoxide 89 Magnalium (100 mesh) 11

Dragon's Eggs Basis: lead tetraoxide Lead tetraoxide 44 Copper oxide 31 Magnalium (100 mesh) 17th sulfur 4th

Potassium nitrate 4th

Dragon's Eggs Prime Potassium perchlorate 70 Magnalium (200 mesh) 20th Red gum 10

Manufacturing 1) As always, a mixture of water, alcohol and dextrin is made. We cannot state the exact amount here. Each mix needs a different amount. It also depends on whether you prefer to work with a slightly moister dough or not.

2) The crackling mixture is stirred in and the resulting dough is spread out on a smooth surface. It can be granulated both wet and dry.

- 236 - T i ia t n nt iau i mmu W.W. H is i ts te lM. M.l e ix i x

The Titanium Whistle Mix is actually a simple Whistle Mix variant with an additional effect based on titanium powder.

Therefore, we do not provide precise instructions here, because the instructions for the normal whistle mix can be used in full.

The result is an air howler that not only spits out a howling sound, but also a lot of small sparks.

Chemicals - potassium perchlorate - Sodium / Sodium Benzoate

relationship The normal mixture with a small addition of titanium powder applies:

70% Potassium perchlorate + 30% Sodium / sodium benzoate + 5% Titanium powder (percentage by weight)

With 100g Titanium Whistle Mix that would be:

70g Potassium perchlorate + 30g Sodium / sodium benzoate + 5g Titanium powder

Manufacturing 1) Instead of just mixing the first two chemicals together, simply add the titanium powder. Then continue as in the normal instructions

- 237 - F. aa rb r wwb ee cc H ss ee l lb b ee i i S.S. te t ren r een nn

In recent years, the color change effect has become increasingly popular in commercial rockets. Reason enough for us to briefly explain how this effect works. Since the steps of star making are already given in the chapter of the same name, we limit ourselves to a somewhat coarser, but basically correct instruction.

The most important requirement is to roll the stars, i.e. to produce spherical stars, so that the change is even and thus perceptible. In addition, slightly larger stars are required for a clear effect.

Materials - roll form (Wok, sieve, empty ball mill etc.) (perfume - peppercorns - spray tool bottle, plant sprayer)

Chemicals - alcohol - Star Mix 1 (here white) - Star Mix 2 (here red) - gunpowder

Manufacturing 1) Just like in normal star making, the peppercorns are placed in the roll form and with constant rolling movements, alcohol is sprayed with a fine mist.

2) First, the star mixture 1 is now added in slow steps. As soon as a first even layer has formed on the grains, a little alcohol must be sprayed on again and again.

- 238 - 3) Now you have the choice whether you want to let the stars "dry out" for about 6-10 hours, or whether you put the star mixture 2 directly into the drum.

The drying has proven to be a clear advantage in our experiments. This allows the first star mixture to harden easily, and the hard surface is much more stable during the

next rolling process.

4) As soon as the star mix 2 has also been applied, and it has been ensured that the stars are spherical and evenly large, the top layer (firing layer) of black powder is applied according to the same principle.

- 239 - T r Or mOm m e l le f u uf eee r r

The so-called barrage is more reminiscent of the crackling effect, but is actually based on the principle of a cluster bomb. The easiest way to illustrate it is with a gun box that you throw into a campfire.

materials - shell (empty toilet roll etc.) - PVC / cardboard tube

- PVC firecrackers (as small and narrow as possible)

Manufacturing We presuppose: 1x PVC / cardboard tube (1cm diameter) 8x PVC firecrackers (0.5cm diameter, M-80 type)

1) One end of the empty toilet roll is covered with tape.

2) The next one turns to the firecrackers. These should be the ignition principle of a M-80 have. The fuse does not have to point at one end, but rather from the flank of the gun.

In general, it does not matter whether you do it before assembly or at the very beginning Finally, add the respective effect powder and the tubes locks!

- 240 - 3) Small holes are now drilled into the PVC or cardboard tube at the height of the fuse. The PVC firecrackers are placed on the pipe and the fuses are inserted through the holes.

4)

The whole construction can now be put into the toilet roll and should fit exactly.

If you don't want to use a central tube, you can simply thin all of them Line up tubes on the walls and fill the middle with a decomposing charge of black powder… .. a matter of taste!

5) The last thing you have to do is pour black powder or flash powder into the central tube and wrap a few layers of tape around the whole thing. Those who do not have so stable Visco pieces available prefer KP or H3 instead of Flash.

- 241 - Now you can use the construction like a kind of cylinder bomb. An ejection charge under the toilet roll can shoot the object into the sky as well as the fuse for the central chamber

ignite!

The powder in the central tube is ignited by means of a fuse. It ignites the individual fuses at the same time and, with sufficient force, also disperses the individual PVC firecrackers in all directions. Since the fuses could be destroyed by a too strong sentence, this task can also be left to the individual firecrackers.

As soon as one or two firecrackers explode, their force will tear the structure apart anyway and distribute the remaining firecrackers. Rather unsuitable for ground fireworks and rockets, this principle has proven to be extremely successful as an effect charge of large cylinder bombs.

- 242 - F. ee uu ee rb r aab l l l l

The fireballs that appear in every action film hide under the effect of the "fireball". It doesn't matter whether a car hits a pedestrian or someone shoots barrels standing around; there is always a gigantic fireball.

In real life this is of course not that easy, which explains most of the daring designs that are praised on the Internet. Instructions for “petrol bombs” are often passed around there, but these are more dangerous than useful.

The deadly sins of pyrotechnics include all constructions with gas bottles / cartridges or other metal and glass vessels. All you need for an impressive film effect is a simple PVC or cardboard crab.

(2 liter fuel bag + 5g Flash, diameter approx. 3m)

- 243 - materials - plastic bags (Garbage bags, freezer bags, chip bags) - Cable ties - Firecrackers (Cardboard or PVC firecrackers)

Chemicals - Flash - Petrol

manual 1) You fill the gasoline into the bag and close it with a cable tie or whatever else is suitable.

Even bags of chips from the discounter have turned out to be a fuel container proven, but they only hold 1 liter of petrol!

Bags from the discounter dissolve or tear quickly due to the gasoline. In the building and Raiffeisen market you can find bags for them Gardening that can take almost anything.

2) The bag is then simply placed on the Flashböller. As soon as the bag explodes, the gasoline is strongly atomized and ignited by the heat or the sparks of the respective flash charge.

The sparks from the fuse, if left uncovered, can penetrate the bag's shell before the explosion and ignite the gasoline. That's why you should use an electric ignition, or that

Cover the fuse with a piece of aluminum foil.

- 244 - T H ee rm r mi i tO t n nf tf ÄtO nÄn ee nn

As can already be seen from the name, this is a fountain effect through the use of thermite. Thermit is mainly used to weld railroad tracks together. It reacts with a temperature of up to 2500 ° C.

For this effect you only need red iron oxide (i.e. rust) and aluminum powder (the finer the better). Both substances can be bought easily and cheaply on platforms like Ebay.

The mixing ratio of iron oxide and aluminum powder is 2: 1. The product should be in red powder, which is a bit paler than pure iron oxide. This mixture can be ignited with a normal sparkler.

The correct ratio of thermite is 3: 1, but this mixture is more difficult to ignite and provides a finer, but not as powerful, effect.

- 245 - Thermit must never be ignited near burning substances. The high temperature alone is enough to even without direct contact e.g. to ignite dry grass!

Therefore thermite or the thermite fountains should only be on one way or be ignited in damp weather!

Iron oxide makes a hell of a lot of dirt, but it's hard to make textiles to get out. So work carefully!

materials - PVC pipe - logs - Drilling machine - hot glue - Sparkler

Chemicals - Thermit

Manufacturing 1) First you saw a small piece out of the PVC pipe. The length does not matter, but should be between 15cm and 30cm. Shorter and longer sleeves caused problems in some tests.

2) Then saw a 1cm and a 2cm long piece out of the log.

A hole is drilled into the 2cm long piece (the later nozzle).

- 246 - 3) Now the short piece is pushed about 1-2 cm into the pipe and the space is filled with hot glue. Once the glue has dried, it should look like a mini mortar for ball bombs.

4) Now it comes to the effect charge. To do this, the thermite is put into the pipe. You should always shake it a little in between so that the powder compacts a little and more can be added.

5) As soon as there is only 3cm of space left in the pipe, the long piece of wood is placed on the thermite and reinforced at the edges with hot glue. There should be 1 cm of free space between the nozzle and the end of the pipe.

You could also fill the pipe completely so that the wood wears off with the pipe. But then you can't apply the hot glue so well and the nozzle could simply be shot away during the reaction.

- 247 - 6) To ignite just stick a sparkler through the nozzle and light it. The high pressure that arises during the reaction now hurls the gases, the smoke and of course the glowing iron that is produced. During the day, a great effect is created with quantities of 200g, at night a volcano with a thousand sparks awaits you.

The reaction is unpredictable. Are conceivable in the course of the reaction also the bursting of the pages, it is already too small Explosions occurred due to the high pressure!

So never put it right next to it; Safety distance at least 5m!

And never stare directly at the nozzle. The resulting light is so bright that it can damage the eyes! Better to admire the tail!

Authors comment Of course, it is clear that not much remains of the construction after the reaction. Never pour water over the resulting iron while it is glowing, simply let it cool down.

The nozzle does not have to be an evenly wide hole in the wood. A hole that consists of a 1 cm wide and a 0.5 cm wide hole is also conceivable. Sloped walls are also possible, each change ensures a different intensity of the fountain.

- 248 - F. l el iG i eee nn dd ee F.F. uu nn kk ee nn

General The flying sparks arose, like so many other things, out of sheer necessity. During one session we noticed that we ran out of charcoal for Tiger Tails. So we somehow had to improvise quickly to still achieve a nice spark effect.

So we collected all the firecrackers we had left over from New Year's Eve and used their fuses as a source of sparks.

materials - Visco (from a 320er ham Böller) - Scissors

Manufacturing 1) You either take professional visco or simply the small fuses out of the New Year's Eve guns.

2) These are cut into 3-5 cm long pieces and incorporated into the fragmentation charge of the spherical or cylinder bomb.

For a good effect you need at least 20 pieces!

epilogue It all sounds just as simple as it is. If you believe us, you can put a firecracker fuse open on a table and light it. This will immediately set off and probably shoot up to the next wall (attention: flying sparks).

In the dark evening sky you can see small sparks flying away in all directions, provided you have mixed enough pieces into the decomposing charge so that it is not covered by the actual effect.

- 249 - F. l l ie i rt tr t t e

"Flitter" is more of a special type of star than an effect. Because the term “tinsel” is generally understood to mean stars with a very high proportion of aluminum (50-75% by weight).

Depending on the oxidizing agent used, different effects come to light. The resulting sparks can have a silver or gold effect and form a star scale tail

But what is the difference between tinsel, glitter and tiger tails?

In the absence of metals, Tiger Tails produce carbon sparks and no metal sparks. And with the tinsel, the metal part burns more slowly than with glitter. As a result, there is almost no noise development with the tinsel.

- 250 - G l l i ei tr tr t t e

Stars with a special sparkle tail. The golden and / or silver sparks ("splashes") "explode" through a chemical reaction at the end of their burning time. The star's tail seems to sparkle brilliantly.

Glitter stars consist of a black powder-like set with fine aluminum powder or an aluminum alloy (approx. 8-15% by weight) and a delay agent so that the spray only reacts in the tail and not already in the star flame. If the chemical reaction is greatly delayed, the effect is more like blinking.

The glitter effect takes up a whole range of slightly different effects:

Pearl effect: Teardrop shape

Tremolante: A few flashes of glitter near the burning star, but most of the flashes on the trajectory of melt droplets thrown off by oxidation

Twinkler: Few or no flashes near the star, but a long tail of occasional flashing light

Since glitter and the associated technical terminology are borrowed from German, American word creations, these require an explanation:

Spray means flash of light from a burning liquid slag drop and the reactions that lead to this explosive combustion, as well as the sound (puffing-sputtering) that the exploding drops produce.

Splash are burning cinder droplets that are formed on or near the star, continue to burn in the air with little light and explode in a splash reaction.

- 251 - Spurels are spur-like projections of rapidly cooling combustion products of the spray explosion, which can only be seen at a distance of 1-30 m.

Spurets are a comparable phenomenon, of greater density, but which can only be seen at an even shorter distance.

Delay is the burning time of the spray, from the formation of the slag and detachment from the star to the spray reaction.

- 252 - W. aa ss ss ee r rÄ f lf elÄ l l e

The effect of a waterfall is achieved through the simultaneous ignition of several effect bodies. Most of these are located on the "crossbar" of a steel structure and emit a continuous stream of sparks, in professional fireworks also cascading. This creates the image of a waterfall.

The type and duration of the sparks depends on the aluminum used. Coarser aluminum powder or granulate produces thicker, longer-lasting sparks. Advanced members of the scene also mix in a small amount of titanium powder by weight.

In total there are more than 20 mixtures for the waterfall effect on the Internet. On pyroguide.com we found two mixtures that we tried out successfully. We therefore limit ourselves to these two mixtures here.

materials - Cardboard paper or cardboard (A4) - logs (Diameter does not matter) - Scissors - Fine balance

- 253 - Chemicals - aluminum (Granules and fine powder) - dextrin - potassium nitrate or potassium perchlorate - gunpowder (optional) - Water - isopropanol / ethanol

Mixtures

Mix 1 Potassium perchlorate 46 Aluminum (granulated / grit) 32 Aluminum (fine) 14th Dextrin 8th

Mixture 2 Potassium nitrate 52 Aluminum (granulated / grit) 26th Aluminum (fine) 18th Dextrin 4th

- 254 - Manufacturing 1) First, one needs to make the body of the waterfall charges. To do this, take a sheet of cardboard paper and cut it into two elongated strips.

2) Then you roll the strips on the log into small cylinders and wrap the rolls with a layer of tape. Finally, one side is closed with tape and the body is finished.

3) Next, all chemicals except the aluminum granules are finely powdered and carefully

mixed together (sieve method).

Then a mixture of 75% water and 25% ethanol or isopropanol is stirred.

4) This mixture is now sprayed onto the effect charge until it reaches the Reached consistency of dough.

If the mix fits together, it's perfect. If it got too wet / runny, just a little more

Add effect powder.

- 255 - 5) Now you can fill the cardboard tubes with the mass. At the end of the day you should definitely use a suitable round wood to crush the mixture in the pipe. At the upper end, however, there must still be about 5mm space.

6) The ignition mixture now comes into this free space.

A simple fuse is usually not enough to ignite the effect. For the ignition mix, mix 10g waterfall mix with 3g black powder.

The ignition mixture is now pressed into the free space together with a fuse.

7) Finally, the rolls are dried in a warm and dry place for about 3-4 days. Even completely dry sentences sometimes take a few seconds to properly ignite ... so always keep the necessary distance and do not rush to the scaffolding.

- 256 - K nn aa l kl löö l rkp r eep r r

introduction

In this practical part of the book, we'll cover all types of firecrackers. Whether made of paper or PVC, everything is possible and will be handled by us.

As the name suggests, the main job of a banger is to create a nice bang. Explosive power and other effects are more of an addition.

Under no circumstances should you confuse firecrackers with "explosive devices". The point is not to cause the strongest / most destructive explosion possible, less is more here.

The shape of a banger can also be chosen arbitrarily, but has an influence on the later result. A PVC firecracker will never sound as "dull and deep" as a well-crafted cubic cannon blow.

Finally we want to appeal again to everyone with a clear mind. No metal unless you want to die. Metal turns our bang into an explosive device. The flying fragments can fly over 100m even with "harmless" flash charges.

Authors comment Splinter? Pah, they don't hurt anyone!

We thought that way up until two years ago. So on New Year's Eve we built a couple of PVC firecrackers with a wall thickness of 5mm. That was a mistake…

When such a firecracker was ignited, an end piece and a few small splinters flew almost 40m and hit the lord on the head. Without safety glasses he would be blind today ... and the impacts on the glasses echoed through the alley for a few seconds.

Since then we have decided against metal and thick PVC. Normal PVC tubes for cable sheathing with a wall thickness of 1-2mm are still enough to put every Polish bully in the shade. Even so, we don't go brawling without protective goggles.

- 257 - W. O ra r uua ss ss O l l dl l eed r r B.B. öö l le lr lr be b ee ss te t He ee nn ?? E.E. in i VnV ee r Gr Gle l iec i Hc ! !

Paper, cardboard, PVC or is it metal?

Only one thing is clear on this question, no metal! We want to build firecrackers here and not pipe bombs. The risk of splintering is immense and the price is too high.

So there are still paper, cardboard or PVC, the agony of choice. Each type has its advantages and disadvantages. We built firecrackers from every material and tested them for you.

Here is our report:

► paper

Most firecrackers are made of paper. Regardless of whether rolled, kinked or folded, almost all shapes are possible.

benefits - cheap - Fast construction time - Price-performance ratio - Easy to manufacture - Very easy

disadvantage - Little strength - Very sensitive to water - low robustness

- 258 - Assessment (paper) Strength ● ● ○ ○ ○ ○ costs ● ● ● ● ● ● construction time ● ● ● ● ● ● robustness ●● ○○○○

There is no other material that can be used to produce firecrackers as quickly as paper. The material costs even go to zero, each of us has paper flying around somewhere at home.

In addition to the normal Chinabollern, popular types of firecrackers such as the Knickpapierköller and the La Bombas are made of paper. The decisive disadvantages can be found here in the strength and robustness. Due to the weak insulation, paper firecrackers are inferior to any PVC firecrackers and are very susceptible to moisture

- 259 - ► cardboard

Cardboard is a very interesting material for building firecrackers. Regardless of whether drawing board or cardboard, the insulation exceeds that of paper guns by a good deal.

No wonder that most cubic cannon strikes or cylinder blasts (picture) are made from sturdy cardboard.

benefits - Good insulation - Cheap - Medium construction time - Relatively insensitive

disadvantage - Underlay PVC - Susceptible to water

Rating (cardboard) Strength ● ● ● ○ ○ ○ costs ● ● ● ● ● ● construction time ● ● ● ● ○ ○ robustness ●●● ○○○

The absolute middle class and maybe the ideal material for those who can't decide. The strength exceeds that of paper by a lot. At the same time, firecrackers made of cardboard remain inexpensive to manufacture and even short-term resistant to water (especially if reinforced with adhesive tape and hot glue).

However, this material has to leave the top position in terms of strength or robustness to the PVC firecrackers.

- 260 - ► PVC

Firecrackers made of PVC have become increasingly popular in recent years. The hardware stores unintentionally promote this popularity with their large range of PVC pipes. Drainage pipes or power conduits (here in the picture) are very cheap to get.

benefits - Strong containment - Robust - Very cheap (from 90 cents / m) - Easy to stack / pack

disadvantage - Slight risk of splinters - Few modifications possible - Strong containment the ends is necessary - Production takes a while - Of course, paper is cheaper

rating Strength ● ● ● ● ● ○ costs ● ● ○ ○ ○ ○ construction time ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ robustness ●●●●● ○

These firecrackers can score above all for their strength and robustness. Only metal is stronger and more robust, but we never used it.

Well-made PVC firecrackers are even absolutely waterproof. The perfect firecracker for bad terrain and weather. The weaknesses of this type of firecrackers are mainly in its longer construction time and in the slightly higher costs compared to the paper firecrackers.

- 261 - ► Conclusion

Assessment (paper) Strength ● ● ○ ○ ○ ○ costs ● ● ● ● ● ● construction time ● ● ● ● ● ● robustness ●● ○○○○

Rating (cardboard) Strength ● ● ● ○ ○ ○ costs ● ● ● ● ● ● construction time ● ● ● ● ○ ○ robustness ●●● ○○○

Rating (PVC) Strength ● ● ● ● ● ○ costs ● ● ○ ○ ○ ○ construction time ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ robustness ●●●●● ○

- 262 - ! There is no such thing as the perfect firecracker!

It is the situation that determines the firecracker. If you have a lot of time (e.g. before New Year's Eve), you can calmly build the PVC firecrackers, fill them with flash on New Year's Eve and use the detonators. Their strength and robustness will put any Polish firecracker in the shade.

If, on the other hand, it needs to be quick, paper firecrackers are perfect. Knickpapierköller are made of paper, for example, are almost free and can be produced very quickly.

However, you then have to accept restrictions in the areas of “strength” and “robustness”.

It gets interesting with cardboard. Many good firecrackers like Cubic Cannon Strikes can be built from them. However, these cost a little more than paper and the construction time is not that short. On the other hand, no wrapping paper firecracker is as strong as a good punch made of cardboard.

Perhaps this is the perfect compromise between paper and PVC.

- 263 - D. ee r rP P VV C. B.B. öö l le l rl re

materials - PVC pipe: Wall thickness: 0.5-2mm Length: any Diameter: any - hot glue - aluminum foil - fuse / sparkler

Manufacturing 1) The PVC pipe is sawn into several parts of any length.

2) Then take a piece of aluminum foil and rub it between your hands to form a kind of "sausage".

3) This sausage comes in one of the tubes and is pulped with a suitable pen.

A small plug comes out, the ideal width is approx. 5-8mm.

You need two of these plugs for each firecracker

4) Now a stopper is pressed approx. 1 cm into the tube at the lower end. The free space from the stopper to the end of the firecracker is filled with hot glue.

- 264 - 5) A hole is drilled in the other plug through which the fuse is inserted. The detonator is now ready.

6) Now the flash comes into the tube and the igniter works on the same principle as the other stopper

pushed after.

7) Finally, you can fill the upper space with hot glue. Before doing this, however, you should make sure that the fuse can burn through with hot glue without going out.

Only a few flash sets such as potassium permangant - magnesium or potassium nitrate - aluminum are insensitive to heat enough not to to go up early!

We even have both types of flash with the hot metal tip of the Touched the glue gun to test it!

With chlorates or peroxides, such a closure is almost suicide. Here you just take sound like in normal firecrackers or a mixture of wood glue and sawdust (see "M-80")!

- 265 - K uu bb is i ccs H ee KK aa nn O nn ee nn ss cc H l Äl GÄG ee

Cubic cannon strikes, also mistakenly called Cuban strikes, are as famous as they are notorious. Hardly a firecracker can be thrown better, and hardly anyone creates such a "dull" bang. The production is generally more difficult, more complex and more expensive than with all other types of firecrackers.

The cannon strike can be filled with black powder or flash powder. Commercial products show that if processed well, black powder is sufficient for a decent effect. But in order to save on the sealing material and to achieve a greater effect, you should use flash powder

At the end of the book there are cube templates in the common sizes. Cutting out the template and gluing on thick We assume paper / cardboard for the first step!

materials - paper / cardboard - Scissors - tape - Cord / package cord (optional) - hot glue - Glue

Chemicals Flash powder Black powder

Manufacturing 1) The stencil is first folded like a normal cube and glued together with glue at the glue points. The “lid” is not closed until later.

2) Then you should wrap the cube with a few layers of tape, so it becomes more stable for the next steps and in the end result. Don't forget the floor either!

- 266 - The next step is voluntary. However, it significantly increases the damming and strengthens the corners, which are often the "weak points" of the Cannon blows are!

3) Now you put the cube on an edge (just put it in a gap), and apply a thick layer of hot glue from the inside into the edge with a hot glue gun.

Repeat this step for the three remaining corners. It looks like a square on the outside and an octagon on the inside.

4) Now a hole is drilled in the lid, the fuse is inserted and the cube is filled with the effect powder. The ideal filling level is between 1/3 and ½.

5) Now just bend in the lid, glue it and wrap the firecrackers completely with tape.

The dam Either you use a few layers of tape or the cord / parcel cord known from the commercial products.

However, it is not that easy to simply wrap the cord around the cube. For the perfect arrangement, simply pull the cord through a container with glue and wrap it around the cube. With this method, the line no longer slips, dries within a few minutes and becomes rock hard.

- 267 - T yy pp " "D. D. O nn nn ee rs r c cs H la l Ga " "

!Warning!

The "clap of thunder" is actually nothing more than a pipe bomb with a huge flash sentence. We only developed it for testing purposes ... whoever builds it risks his life!

Description: The "Thunderbolt" is probably the strongest ever in Germany built and ignited flash firecrackers. Its power is equivalent to that of a pipe bomb. There are actually no real uses for him.

We only use it to create fireballs with more than 20 liters of gasoline. Everything else is and remains suicide!

Type: Giant PVC firecrackers Hazard potential: Extreme Wall thickness of the pipe: 2 mm Length: 23cm Diameter: 4cm Gross weight: 80g

Composition: 60g KMnO 4th + 40g magnesium + 20g sulfur Flash phrase: 120g Total weight: 200 g

materials - PVC pipe: wall thickness: 2 mm Length: 23cm Diameter: 4cm - hot glue - logs (should go exactly into the pipe if possible) (at least 1m or - fuse better electric detonator)

- 268 - Manufacturing 1) A piece of 23cm long is sawn out of a normal PVC drain pipe.

2) From a round piece of wood that fits exactly into the pipe (you can find it in the same hardware store ... just try out which one fits),

two pieces, each 1.5cm wide are sawn out.

3) Now the two pieces of round wood are pushed into the pipe from both sides so far that there is still approx. 1cm space to the outside.

4) This area is completely filled with hot glue.

5) In order to fill and detonate the explosive device, a small hole must now be drilled in the middle of the pipe. This allows the flash powder and the later fuse to be inserted.

Note from the authors A PVC pipe with screw caps on both sides is of course better. This allows small flash portions of 10g (packed in tea bags) to be placed individually in the tube without handling loose powder.

- 269 - Review

“So we took a total of 5 meters of Green Visco and a 1m long sparkler. Fortunately, that was enough. We were a good 100-150m away behind a sandbag wall.

The explosion was gigantic. For a few moments the forest was bathed in a bright light ... that blinded us even through our welding goggles.

Then came the bang ... bloodcurdling and gigantic loud ... luckily we had hearing protection otherwise we would have been damaged. The cloud of smoke was a mixture of a mushroom cloud and a huge AN-Smoke ^^

I have to be honest ... I was really impressed when I saw the place of the explosion. Everything burned up and a nice crater that I normally only see in explosives.

Then we gave this project the name Thunderbolt. “As great as it may sound, there will be no more of us for the time being. After all, we are not tired of life.

And even for very large fireballs, we always pack the Flash in 8g portions in tea bags and place them one after the other in the body ... so at least nothing can happen when filling.

- Test report from LB & RA, ignition on October 30, 2009, near Dortmund

- 270 - L. aa B.B. O mm b aa /P / OP lu l mum n aa ss

Explanation La Bombas and Polumnas are quite simple to manufacture and the materials are also easy to obtain ... but the volume fluctuates considerably, depending on the construction, type of paper, powder mixture, adhesive tape, etc.

To achieve a really good effect, black powder is rather unsuitable. For this reason, flash powder mixtures of potassium permanganate or chlorates / perchlorates should be used.

materials - strips of paper - tape - glue - Visco

Chemicals - Flash powder

- 271 - Manufacturing 1) First, one corner of the paper strip is bent up to the edge above

2) Then the tip of the triangle is bent again (placed parallel on the edge)

3) The flash powder and fuse come into the "pocket" shown in the second picture.

So that no powder trickles out during the next steps, you can "wrap" a piece of tape around the "bag" starting with the thumb.

- 272 - 4) As soon as the bag has been stabilized, you spread glue on the remaining paper strip and then wrap the whole thing around its own axis. The result should be a paper triangle.

The result should be a paper triangle. This should definitely be wrapped with tape so that the damming, and thus the force of the banger, is stronger.

- 273 - C. HH ee r ry rB. B.r yO mm b

materials - table tennis ball - nail - Candle - Kitchen paper / toilet paper - Hot glue gun + sticks - fuse - tin bowl - gloves - Handicrafts (scissors, glue, etc.)

Chemicals - sodium silicate (soda water glass) - Black powder or flash powder

Manufacturing 1) The nail is heated over the candle in order to burn a 5-6mm hole in the table tennis ball.

2) Then take a shallow bowl and cover the bottom about 1cm with soda water glass.

3) The toilet paper sheets are then dipped into the soda water glass to cover the ball. It is important that all air bubbles are removed. This process continues with the whole paper.

4) To dry the whole thing is simply put in a warm place for 3-4 days.

5) As soon as the ball has become rock hard, the place of the hole is pierced and flash and fuse are filled in.

The whole thing is sealed with hot glue.

Some people put the flash in first and then leave the ball dry. However, Flash should never be stored as some mixtures lose their strength quickly or are too unstable!

- 274 - M. - 8th- 8th0 0

description The M-80. Hardly any firecracker is so famous and no model has been copied so often. In America they were legendary and were freely available for a long time. These were incredibly loud and had a relatively strong explosive power. The M-80 were actually used by the military for training purposes to simulate loud explosions on the battlefield. In 1966, M-80s and cherry bombs were banned in America to protect children.

composition Composition according to the book "a professional's guide to pyrotechnics":

64% Potassium perchlorate 22.5% aluminum powder 10% sulfur 3.5% antimony sulfide

We omit the antimony sulfide for reasons of cost and acquisition. Instead, we prefer the mixture in our method:

68% Potassium perchlorate 21% Dark-Pyro or Germany Dark Alu 11% sulfur

materials - Extremely hard cardboard, PVC or similar (tube shape) - wood glue - sawdust or fine waste - Flash powder - fuse

- 275 - Preparations The alleged original size (4.45cm x 1.27cm) is relative. The M-80 can also be a little bigger!

Wood glue and sawdust are only for perfectionists. If you don't have a large supply of sawdust in your basement, you are well served with fine waste. Fine waste is available for little money / kg in every hardware store ... mostly in the wallpaper or wall department.

Manufacturing

1) Have wood glue and sawdust (or fine waste) ready. Later there is no more time to get something ... the mass dries very quickly.

2) Mix both in such a way that a homogeneous mass is created, about the consistency of window putty, so that a spoon is in it

3) Shape a small sausage out of the mixture and put it in one side of the sleeve and press it down on a smooth surface with a suitable pusher, especially on the edge

be careful!

- 276 - 4) Make the closure and this immediately after pressing push out. So you have one for the other side after you put the flash powder in

has poured

5) The powder is only poured in loosely, not pressed!

At the top, at least 1 cm is left free for the closure

6) The other fastener is pushed in. Care should be taken to take one that is already dry.

Otherwise you have to wait another day until it has hardened ... and this flash powder should never be stored!

7) After putting the second stopper still with an adhesive, tape or has amplified similar, it goes to the detonator.

Use a sharp object to make a hole for the fuse

pricked (never drilling), it should be so thin that the fuse is just about

can put in.

- 277 - With that the M-80 would actually be finished. However, it should also be said that the second plug is a weak point. After a few tests, however, we found a good solution.

The second stopper is completely painted around the edges with super glue or wood glue. As a result, it later sits much more firmly. Nevertheless, you shouldn't do without a little glue or tape on the outside of the end.

F. i mi l ld m O ss ee nn bb öö l le l rl re

materials - Film can - Flash powder - hot glue - fuse - tape

Manufacturing

1) The floor inside the film can is reinforced with hot glue, as is the lid, so the damming is increased.

2) A hole for the fuse is drilled at the bottom of the film canister.

3) The film can is now half filled with flash powder and closed with the lid.

4) To get even more impact, you can wrap the film can with tape, done.

- 278 - K nn ic i kkc pp aa pp ie i reb r ööb l le l rl re

materials - Parcel tape or duct tape - A4 printer paper - scotch tape - A thick pencil or a wooden stick - pliers - fuse (approx. 12-14 cm)

Chemicals Flash or SP

safety instructions Everyone knows that Flash and SP are sensitive. So always work with the necessary sensitivity.

Manufacturing 1) First, the A4 paper is folded in the middle and rolled up on the pen or stick.

- 279 - 2) The resulting roll is now fixed with tape and then wrapped tightly with the tape.

The pen can remain in the roll while it is being wrapped.

3) Then the end of the roll is bent over once with the help of the pliers, and then

fixed with tape.

4) Finally the firecracker is filled with Flash or SP and the fuse is laid through the end that is still open.

When the powder is in, the top of the crease will also be folded over. The procedure is the same as for the first end. The fuse should be in the middle but not be damaged during the bending process.

- 280 - D. ee r rK K ra r cca H ee r rv v O mm HH ee r rn r( r( D. D.n KK HH ) )

materials - PVC pipe (1cm diameter) - hot glue - saw - aluminum foil - fuse

Chemicals - Flash (here Potash Manganese-Sulfur-Magnalium) - Whistle mix

safety instructions Everyone knows that Flash and SP are sensitive. So always work with the necessary sensitivity. In addition, the sensitive whistle mix is used here. When working with the howler powder, neither sparks nor heat sources are allowed.

We start with building the body. It is best to make a few copies before preparing the flash and howler powder.

How much flash or howler powder you need is not specified here due to the great relativity. It doesn't matter how big the individual parts of the firecracker are.

It all depends on what you want. A big bang; then the flash chamber should be enlarged accordingly. Exactly the other way around with a longer whistle.

- 281 - Notes - "L-bend" The fuse has to be kinked like an "L" for this firecracker. This guarantees that the fuse for the flash set is only ignited when the whistle mix has almost completely burned down.

This kink already shows the later principle. First, the howler powder should burn off with a proper whistle before it ignites the fuse at the bottom. After the whistle, a normal flash set is ignited by the fuse with a short delay.

A two-tier bully who is looking for his equal. Especially because after the whistle no one expects a big bang. Ideal at parties or New Year's Eve.

Manufacturing - the body 1) First the 10cm long PVC pipe is sawn into 2 5cm long pieces.

2) Then, just like with the PVC firecrackers, you take a piece of aluminum foil and rub it between your hands to form a kind of "sausage".

This sausage comes in one of the tubes and is pulped with a suitable pen. A plug comes out, the ideal width is approx. 5-8mm.

A small hole must now be drilled in one of the plugs so that a fuse can be inserted through it later.

- 282 - 3) Now the first fuse is bent so that it looks like a long "L" (picture 1). It is now pushed through the plug with the hole until there is 0.5 cm space between the plug and the "L-bend" (Fig. 2).

4) Now push the stopper with the fuse into the first tube until the "L-bend" is flush with the upper edge.

This gap is now filled with hot glue.

5) As soon as the hot glue has dried and it is ensured that the kinked part of the fuse is on top (peeks out), the second tube is put on.

With super glue on the edge of the first tube, it should stick. If it doesn't stay on, you can wrap the two tubes with tape.

- 283 - 6) With that the body is finished, this is what the cross-section should look like.

(From here we have "drawn" the pictures to keep the structure clearer)

Manufacturing - completion In the cross-section we see the flash chamber (A) and the howling chamber (B). In the next few steps we will limit ourselves to the two letters.

1) Now fill the flash powder in area A and close it with the second aluminum stopper.

The free space of 0.5-1cm is filled with hot glue.

Only a few flash sets such as potassium permangant - magnesium or potassium nitrate - aluminum are insensitive to heat enough not to to go up early!

- 284 - With chlorates or peroxides, such a closure is almost suicide. Here you just take sound like in normal firecrackers or a mixture of wood glue and sawdust (see "M-80")!

2) Now the whistle mix is poured into area B. To really create a whistling sound, the mix has to be pressed into the sleeve. Only a maximum of 50-70% of the howling chamber may be filled.

Never bump or hit!

The plug with the "L-fuse" should be tight enough not to slip. As soon as almost all of the powder has been pressed in, all you have to do is press in a thin fuse with the last remainder.

The easiest way is to introduce the whistle mix and the body and to clamp a tamping instrument in a vice!

With the vice you can carefully measure the pressure and don't have to hold the thing in hand!

The man's cracker is done (cross-section)

- 285 - D. ie i ZeZ üü nn dd uu nn G

E. in i nle l ie iu t n nt Gu

In this part of the practical pyrotechnics, we deal with the ignition means. The variety of primers is almost as great as that of fireworks.

Regardless of whether it is visco, sparklers, ignition paper or even electric igniter, every ignition agent has its advantages and disadvantages. The comparison of visco and sparklers is particularly worthwhile.

The self-made electric igniters are particularly interesting for hobby pyrotechnics. It's amazing that you can make tons of detonators from a simple string of lights, a safe method of ignition with great potential.

And then there are the exotic detonators. These are to be enjoyed with caution and rather for one-off show experiments.

- 286 - Z üü nn dd ss cc H nn üü re r O eO dd ee r rW. W. uu nn dd ee rk r e ek r re z n nz ?? e E.E. in i VnV ee r Gr Gle l iec i Hc ! !

Fuses

In commercial pyrotechnics, fuses, also called visco, are used in pretty much every firework. The different types of Visco differ mainly in the diameter of the "cord" and the burning rate per second.

In Germany mainly Chinese Fuse and Green Visco are used.

benefits - Very flexible - Little flying sparks - Partly waterproof - Good ignition temperature

disadvantage - Not very robust - Some fabrics do not burn through

- A bit expensive

Rating (fuse) costs ● ● ● ○ ○ ○ Diversity of use ●●●●●● robustness ● ● ○ ○ ○ ○ durability ● ● ● ○ ○ ○

Fuses can be used in almost any position. Due to their high flexibility, they can be bent, kinked or folded in almost any degree. At € 0.75-1.00, the price per meter is slightly higher than that of sparklers.

Especially the fine Chinese Fuse, as you know it from some New Year's Eve hits, is even a bit more expensive.

- 287 - You can get a New Year's Eve ham with 320 firecrackers and thus 320 fuses for only 5 €, but these are pretty short and usually already kinked.

A pretty big near part is their poor resistance to strong winds and rough handling. In addition, normal fuse "suffocates" when some materials burn through.

- 288 - Sparklers

Officially, sparklers are not used as igniters. But in the hobby scene, the potential behind these children's fireworks was recognized early on. Especially on windy days, a lot of people rely on the remarkable properties of the sparkler.

benefits - Extremely resistant - High ignition temperature - Burns through almost all fabrics - Slow but constant Burn rate - Attractively priced

disadvantage - Strong flying sparks - Absolutely rigid - A bit bulky - Susceptible to moisture

Rating (sparkler) costs ● ● ● ● ● ○ Diversity of use ● ○○○○○ robustness ● ● ● ● ● ● durability ● ● ● ● ○ ○

Sparklers are the real bulldozers under the fuses. In the discounter you get 40 small WK for just € 1. Due to their high ignition temperature, they burn through almost all of the materials we use and can even ignite thermite.

Their greatest advantage, however, is also their greatest weakness. Sparklers are extremely robust, but this also limits their possible uses. As soon as you try to bend sparklers, they crumble and become useless.

Another disadvantage of the large, and especially hot flying sparks. This can cause a mixture to explode prematurely. To prevent this from happening, the sparklers are often wrapped in tape or straws.

- 289 - Conclusion

Rating (fuse) costs ● ● ● ○ ○ ○ Diversity of use ●●●●●● robustness ● ● ○ ○ ○ ○ durability ● ● ● ○ ○ ○

Rating (sparkler) costs ● ● ● ● ● ○ Diversity of use ● ○○○○○ robustness ● ● ● ● ● ● durability ● ● ● ● ○ ○

! The winner is the fuse!

In the battle of the ignition means, the fuse narrowly prevails against the sparkler.

The decisive advantage of the fuse is its price / Performance ratio. For relatively little money you can get an ignition device that works in almost any weather, location and environment. You can also combine them with a lot of things like tape matches.

The sparkler is not suitable as a universal igniter, but rather as a special igniter. It is the first choice when igniting thermite or particularly strong insulation materials. But the main disadvantage compared to fuses is their low flexibility. A good kindling device has to be easy to bend and bend.

- 290 - T aa pp ee mm a tc t Hc

The so-called tapematch, depending on how the SP is arranged, can be the preliminary stage to the quickmatch. It burns a little slower, but is very suitable for connecting two pieces of visco and thus two fireworks.

If you only distribute a track of SP in the middle, as described here, the tape match works as a kind of quick match. However, the wider and thinner the track, the slower the tape burns.

In contrast to the Quickmatch, it can be produced extremely quickly and cheaply. It is used well in the mortars of ball and cylinder bombs. It's so thin that it fits perfectly between the body and the wall of the mortar and you also save a lot of visco.

materials - tape (Crepe / paper tape) - Visco

Chemicals - gunpowder (granular or ground)

Manufacturing 1) Put a strip of tape on a smooth surface and spread a trace of black powder once lengthways in the middle.

2) Then rub the track on both sides of the adhesive surface and place a piece of visco on each end. You should make sure that enough visco protrudes to be able to create a connection to the piece of the fireworks later

3) Then you fold the adhesive strip lengthways once and press it hard once.

4) Finally, you can wrap a piece of tape around the thin strip again to make it a little more stable and resistant.

- 291 - B. la l cac kk mm a tc t Hc

Blackmatches are openly burning, easy-to-make fuses. They can be used directly as a fuse or processed into quickmatches.

materials - beaker - plastic lid (Lids of chip jars are ideal) (cotton cord works - parcel cord the same way)

Chemicals - Black powder pulp (see "The graining and granulating")

Manufacturing 1) First you drill a hole in the plastic lid. This should be big enough to be able to pull the cord tightly.

Now pull a short piece of string through this hole and turn to the black powder pulp

2) This is mixed in the beaker as described in the chapter "The graining and granulating"

- 292 - 3) Then the long part of the string is dipped into the pulp and the lid is placed on the beaker.

4) To make Blackmatches now, all you have to do is pull the short piece of string. Excess black powder pulp sticks to the hole and falls back into the beaker.

The finished Blackmatches are hung up to dry in a warm place (sunlight is allowed). As soon as they have dried, they burn off with a slight flight of sparks.

- 293 - Q uu ic i kkc mm a tc t Hc

The Blackmatches produced above can be processed into another ignition device, the Quickmatch, with just one movement. A Quickmatch lives up to its name, a 25cm long piece can be burned down within 2-3 seconds.

So it is very well suited to connect two fireworks that should go off in quick succession. So you should definitely not try to equip firecrackers with Quickmatches.

There are 2 types of Quickmatches, one with a Blackmatch as “soul” and one with only an SP track. However, the two hardly differ from each other. The latter is called Tapematch instead of Quickmatch, depending on how the SP is distributed on the tape. The boundary between the two types of ignition is open!

materials - Blackmatches - Wrapping paper, cardboard paper - tape

Manufacturing 1) Roll up a piece of Blackmatch in 3-5 layers of paper (minimum thickness: cardboard paper) and fix the cover with tape. On each side, however, there should still be a piece of Blackmatch.

If you want to be on the safe side, you can wrap the whole thing with 1-2 layers of tape.

- 294 - V is i ccs O

Our visco does not come close to the quality of commercial visco, but it is cheaper to manufacture. As almost always, the starting material is an aqueous KNO3 sugar solution.

Materials - paper strips

Chemicals - KNO3 sugar mixture - gunpowder - shellac

Manufacturing 1) First, you create a saturated solution of KNO3 / sugar with water. The ratio is 60:40.

2) The paper strips are immersed in it and hung in a warm place to dry.

3) Once they are hard and dry, dust one side of the strip with a thin layer of black powder. The layer should be less than 1mm thick (fine as dust).

If the black powder keeps slipping when twisting / rolling, you can coat the strip with a very thin layer of nitrocellulose varnish or similar.

4) Then roll it up lengthways and twist it. The two ends are either sealed or held together with tape or glue.

5) Finally, the shellac is applied with a brush. After drying, the fuse is significantly more resistant to water than normal fuse and burns off faster due to the black powder.

- 295 - Z üü nn dd ss t tO r HHr HOH aa lm l me

The idea of using straws as detonators originally came from the cubic cannon strikes. Their fuse is extremely thick and resistant with up to 4mm. In order to emulate this principle, the first ignition tubes were made from straws filled with black powder.

But since black powder seemed too valuable for a long time, a cheaper option was chosen. The new ignition powder consisted of sugar and potassium nitrate.

materials - straws - Scissors - Hot glue / glue - Mortar / ball mill / coffee grinder

Chemicals - potassium nitrate - Sugar

relationship 50 : 50

- 296 - Manufacturing 1) Both substances are thoroughly mixed together and finely powdered in a mortar or similar.

2) Then close one side of the straw neck with a small drop of hot glue (glue works, but takes longer).

3) As soon as the glue is set, you can add the powder in portions. After about 5mm to 1cm the powder is compacted (eg with the flat side of a kebab skewer).

4) When the straw is full, a very thin layer of glue is smeared on top. This prevents the powder from getting wet or trickling out.

Authors comment Usually the powder ignites just by holding a large lighter flame on it. But if this doesn't work, you can press in a short piece of visco with the last portion of KNO3 sugar. Then there should definitely be no more ignition problems.

- 297 - R. ee ib i eeb zü z n nü dd ee r r

Friction igniters can be produced very quickly and, above all, inexpensively. They are perfect for the initial ignition of air howlers. Nowadays there are hardly any fireworks that are ignited with friction igniter. The best-known products with friction igniter are probably the resin crackers.

No matter what you use them for, you always have to be aware of the risks. Unlike a fuse, you can't judge how fast the mixture burns and how much time you have left. We therefore recommend combining the friction igniter with a fuse.

The mixture of the friction ignition can be ignited with a friction surface at the exit of a firecracker, but should be connected with a fuse at the end (picture)

materials - plastic tray - Matches - mortar

Chemicals - water / alcohol

Manufacturing 1) The ignition powder is removed from the match heads and very carefully ground into powder in a mortar.

Unintentional ignition can occur in the mortar, therefore you can also just carefully remove the fuse with a knife crush.

- 298 - If you dare to make the match head mix yourself, can of course save yourself scratching!

2) Now you put the powder in a plastic bowl and add water or alcohol (dries much faster) until a paste-like mass is formed.

3) The pulp can be kneaded into any shape and put a fuse into it at the end.

- 299 - Z üü nn dd pp aa pp ie i re r

The so-called ignition paper is an inexpensive, quick-to-produce alternative to fuse cords made from black powder. Two simple chemicals can be used to create a fuse that glows relatively evenly.

However, since the fuse only glows, it can happen that some pyrotechnic sentences, which are very insensitive to heat, do not ignite. If this is the case, the end of the ignition paper cord must be connected to a normal piece of visco.

In addition, the ignition paper is very sensitive to moisture. A drop or a bit of soil moisture is enough to make them go out. It is therefore an advantage to wrap a little aluminum foil around them.

If you don't have potassium nitrate on hand, you can use potassium chlorate. Same ratio, but significantly more expensive.

materials - beaker - Libra - stove top (optional) - paper (Handkerchiefs, toilet paper)

Chemicals - potassium nitrate - Sugar - Water

relationship

Potassium nitrate + sugar 60 40

- 300 - The amount of water corresponds to the total amount of the mixture. With a total weight of 100g, i.e. a mixture of 60g potassium nitrate and 40g sugar, exactly 100ml water is added.

The hotter the water, the easier it is for the chemicals to dissolve. At a temperature of 90 ° C, you only need 80ml water!

Manufacturing 1) After weighing the two substances, both are poured into the water and dissolved in the water while stirring constantly. This process accelerates significantly with warm water.

Sometimes the water is no longer completely clear, it then shimmers rather slightly yellowish / oily, but this is perfectly fine!

2) Now the paper is soaked in the solution, wrung out and hung up somewhere to dry. Direct sunlight is allowed.

3) After the paper is dry (it usually gets a bit "hard"), it is cut into strips and twisted or twirled into long cords.

The optimal diameter of the cord is 4-6mm.

- 301 - E. le l kke t tO r zr ü Oz n nü dd ee r r

Electric igniters are standard nowadays for larger fireworks and large loads, and are also used more and more frequently in hobby pyrotechnics.

The advantages are obvious. With an electric ignition you are independent of weather and temperature, the time of ignition can be determined at any time, and unlike with fuses, there are no flying sparks.

Of course, each method also has its disadvantages. Electric ignition always requires cables and a sufficient power source. In addition, self-made electric igniters are not always reliable when igniting

Lightbulb lighter

From fairy lights you can make excellent electric igniters relatively quickly and, above all, very cheaply. In the hardware store, a 100 light chain usually costs only 6-8 euros and each lamp can be ignited individually with less than 3V.

However, there is also a major disadvantage with this detonator, reliability. The filament can be quickly damaged by filling the interior of the bulb later. Then you can throw away the fuse and have to replace it with a new one.

It is an advantage if this detonator is designed in such a way that it can be easily exchanged for another one later. So it is not suitable to be built into firecrackers; in the event of a misfire you would have to take the whole firecracker apart. But it is the first choice in mortars for bullet and cylinder bombs.

materials - Fairy lights (100-200 from the hardware store) - Grinder or fine saw - soldering iron (for soldering the ignition cables) - Glue - Pincers / scissors

- 302 - Chemicals - Flash / black powder

Manufacturing 1) First the individual lightbulbs are removed from the light chain. Make sure that you leave a decent piece of wire on it so that you can later connect the igniter to the ignition cable more easily.

2) After that the front part of the light bulb careful Sanded off or sawed off with a fine saw.

The pear can also be masked with paper tape. This significantly reduces the risk of a glass crack!

3) The flash powder or black powder is poured in very carefully and slowly through the front opening. It is important not to have any lumps in the ignition powder, otherwise the glow wire could be damaged.

- 303 - 4) Finally, the top of the igniter is sealed with a very thin layer of glue and the ends of the two cables are stripped.

Authors comment Over the years we've probably made more than 300 lightbulb lighters, more than 70 of which broke while filling the bulb. We therefore recommend letting the powder trickle in like dust when filling. You can achieve this by building a paper funnel with something like a mini sieve in the middle. A compressed ball of aluminum foil can serve as a sieve. Most of the powder is stopped by the ball and only really fine powder slowly trickles around it.

Just enough to say about the ignition. With a 12V battery you can still ignite a lightbulb using a 35m bell wire. If you have problems with it, just take a stronger battery.

- 304 - E. xx O t st icc i Hs ee ZZ üü nn dd ee r r

There are many exotic detonators, and most of them are already known in the scene. The decisive disadvantage of most "exotic" detonators is probably the technique of "trickling on". Nobody should stand next to the detonator and pour anything on it.

We can't offer any new ones, but we've put them through their paces.

Is the detonator really reliable, what can you use it for and is there a risk to your life? We have recorded the answers and experiences here:

Glycerin igniter Structure / instructions This detonator consists of a pile / layer of potassium permangant on which a few drops of glycerine are dripped.

The mixture should immediately ignite with smoke and a small flame Cost / effort Potassium permangant and glycerine are valuable and expensive

reliability Always ignites hazards The smoke is poisonous fitness Rather unsuitable for our purposes. Very expensive and complex to construct if you don't want to pour the glycerine on it yourself.

So far we have not been able to use this detonator anywhere.

- 305 - Dimanganese heptoxide Structure / instructions Dimanganese heptoxide ignites gasoline and acetone immediately on contact Cost / effort expensive reliability Difficult to handle, but mostly ignites very well

hazards Organic substances char on contact This detonator is mostly fitness recommended for incendiary effects. It actually works if you blow up a container of gasoline and one of the chemical at the same time.

However, the high price and the Reactivity with organic substances quite annoying. It's also easier to ignite a gasoline bag with a flash pack.

Acid igniter Structure / instructions Sodium chlorate and sugar are mixed in a ratio of 1: 1

To ignite the mixture only a little sulfuric acid (hoko) has to be dripped on it, which is very expensive Cost / effort reliability Difficult to handle, always ignites acid residues that can be hazards splashed. Absolutely unsuitable for our purposes. Time fitness fuses constructed from this technique are quite inaccurate

- 306 - T O O ls l usu nn dd M.M. aa ss cc H in i ene nn

H yy dd ra r u ua l ls i c ci Hs ee PP re r sse ss ee

A hydraulic press is one of the standard tools of a well-equipped amateur pyrotechnician. It is mainly used to press rocket motors, howlers, fountains and Bengal flares. At the same time, however, it can also be used for many other mixtures and manufacturing processes.

In addition, you can generate much more pressure with a hydraulic press than with your bare hand and a log. However, this performance also has its price. If you can get everything cheaply, the press shown here still costs a good 40 €. This one-time investment is well worth it, especially if you want to produce more than just Flash.

materials - steel strips - Plexiglass pane - Jack / piston jack - metal bars (d = ¾ inch) - Flex - Drilling machine - thread cutter (To cut external threads)

Manufacturing

The steel strips The 6 steel strips are the heart of the press. They have to be massive enough to withstand the stresses and strains of pressing.

You can usually get the steel on construction sites or from scrap dealers. The 6 strips are 4 inches wide and 16 inches long. Corresponding:

- 307 - Upper part and lower part:

1) The upper part and the lower part are both bent lengthways. But to get a width of 4 inches, the strips should be 6 inches wide beforehand. Simply bend 1 inch at a 90 ° angle on each side.

2) Holes are drilled in both ends (d = ¾ inch) through which the metal rod must later pass (should go through as precisely as possible)

Middle part:

1) A notch is cut into this piece of steel on each side. The width is the diameter of the steel bars (here ¾ inch).

3 pieces are required!

- 308 - Assembling the press

1) First you start assembling the

Top.

To do this, take one of the steel rails and the 2 bars.

2) As you can see in the picture, you first insert a middle section, then one of the upper or lower sections. After that

a washer and nut come onto the bar.

To make sure that the construction holds, you can screw a nut underneath before you put the steel plate on.

The two nuts should then “counter” (turn towards each other), that will last forever.

In order to be able to screw nuts on z, the rods must of course also have a thread. If you cannot find any rods with a thread, you have to screw it on by hand with a “thread cutter”!

3) The bottom is assembled the same way as the top.

- 309 - 4) A jack or a 6-ton piston jack is now placed on the lower part. The remaining middle section is placed on this press.

Piston jacks are usually space-saving and easier to integrate into the press than jacks. But no matter what you take that Lifting force should always go up to 6 tons!

The feathers to be seen in the picture (here front) are negligible. But who has more stability when pressing and lowering of the middle part can still be built in!

- 310 - security Unbelievable forces are at work when pressing, which is also a major disadvantage. Sensitive fabrics like Whistle Mix could react to too much pressure. Since this is a hydraulic press with manual control, the risk of being injured in such a reaction is relatively high.

That is why it is important to create a space or a little protection between yourself and the press. Nevertheless, you should still be able to see what you are doing.

Steel plates are therefore unsuitable!

A promising alternative are 2-3 cm thick plastic or plexiglass panes. These can be found very cheaply on the Internet or at scrap and garbage dealers.

1) Put a piece of hardwood between the plexiglass and the metal plates.

2) Two large screws are driven through the washer, the wood and the steel plates both above and below for fastening.

- 311 - 3) The screws should be metal screws to go through everywhere, and long enough so that you can screw a nut + washer on each of the back (here in the foot of the press).

Result In the end, the press should look something like this:

With it you can now press pyrotechnic sets with a pressure of several tons, depending on how strong the construction is. Such dimensions cannot be achieved by hand. A worthwhile comparison is Whistle Mix.

Hand-pressed whistle mix is "terribly slow" compared to a pressed form with this press. So it is worth building such a press, even if it is not cheap.

- 312 - K uu G ee lm l mü H le l ie im m E.E. iG i Gee nn bb aa uu

The ball mill is one of the most important tools for the budding hobby pyrotechnician. Regardless of whether it is metal powder made from aluminum foil or chemicals in talc quality. Almost anything is possible with this.

But that much performance has its price. You can find numerous models on the Internet, most of them from 150 € and up. Of course, you then come up with the idea of building your own ball mill. What sounds so simple is often quite difficult in practice.

When grinding, the mill has to withstand extreme and long-lasting loads. It must not open, jerk or run unevenly during the grinding process. The speed must also be carefully controlled.

“Finger's electrical world” is probably the best-known site for building ball mills and other “tools”. The instructions provided there have also proven themselves in practice and are precise enough so that even beginners can easily understand them.

Therefore we are showing 2 instructions for ball mills on the site and want to thank the authors again. You save a lot of money and the models work without a cover ... and have been for months.

- 313 - K uu G ee lm l mü H le l 1e1 .0 . 0

1) A 150mm pipe socket from the hardware store I trust serves as the drum

2) I cut a 100mm hole in an end cap with a circular cutter, into which a filling flap can be inserted.

Screwed-in profiles make it easier to take the balls with you!

3) The drum is driven by a paper roller from an electric typewriter. The motor comes from a mini circular saw and runs at 24V.

- 314 - 4) The electronics are hidden under the sheet metal from a compact system. The VU meter from the system now shows the speed.

5) The second part of the electronics no longer fit under the sheet metal, so it comes to the side.

6) The number belt comes from an electric sewing machine, which my dentist had put on the street, and of course I couldn't get past it.

The speed is controlled by two glued pin wall magnets detected, which activate a simple Hall sensor.

- 315 - 7) The drum rests in the end shields of burned-out wiper motors.

8) Because the drum is too smooth, it has now been coated with the remains of a large rubber mat on the contact surfaces.

The handwritten circuit diagram (this time without any controller and solved in pure analog technology) can be found on the next page.

- 316 - - 317 - K uu G ee lm l mü H le l 3e3 .0 . 0

All experience gained should now flow into a new version. The most important points are summarized:

- The soundproof box must be built in such a way that the contents can be accessed more easily

- The box needs an interior light so that it can be handled more easily

- The drum must be easy to remove

- The coupling has to be rigid, belt drives slip, make dirt and are difficult to handle

- A speed control is totally superfluous, simple PWM is completely sufficient

- The drum must be easy to open without tools

- It must be possible to lock the drum securely and be dustproof

Authors comment The 3.0 model is really much better than the first. The drum is finally firmly in place, no more straps and an insulated box that is also tight when the drum opens (now almost impossible). And the materials can really be found in every junkyard or when there is bulky waste again.

- 318 - 1) So once again a pipe socket as the basis, this time just a little smaller with three screwed-in drivers.

2) The drive is a 24V motor with worm gear, cannibalized from a mixer. The drum is driven on one side via a claw coupling and a continuous shaft. The other side of the shaft is located in a U-shaped recess with a ball bearing. This allows the drum with the shaft and coupling to be removed from above. A brass collar with a knurled screw presses the cover shut.

- 319 - 3) The box made of 16 mm chipboard can be hinged upwards from a kitchen cupboard and upwards from a wardrobe with an old piano hinge.

4) The underside is adorned with 5 rubber feet.

- 320 - 5) The lock for the front flap is a nail and the flap itself is held in place by a chain from a hall lighting.

6) A toilet lamp is used as interior lighting

- 321 - 7) The feed takes place via an IEC connector so that the cable can be removed for transport and a microswitch turns on the light in the booth (refrigerator principle).

8) A small toroidal transformer does the filling and the box on the right takes the little electronics. The grinder itself is connected with a DIN plug and placed loosely in the box on foam.

- 322 - A special sound-absorbing foam makes the noise insulation. Now I finally know what I had collected this stuff for!

9) The pipe seal flies out and the removal side of the drum is ground flat so that a foam seal can be glued on.

- 323 - 10) To take it out, simply put a Tupperware box underneath, open the drum and set it to creep speed. Then the stuff gradually pounds out of the drum.

The Tupperware jar has a coarse sieve to keep the rolling elements away from the grist separate!

Does anyone want to recreate that? As always, there is of course a circuit diagram. Conclusion ? Except for the chipboard and the cover for the socket, everything comes from scrap. Total costs 10 euros, construction time approx. 20 hours.

So: Always busy collecting scrap!

- 324 - - 325 - C. HH ee mm i ki aka l el inn i He ee rs r tse t le ul l n nl Gu

A. lu l mum i ni niu i mum p uu lv l eev r r

Aluminum powder is one of the most important basic materials in pyrotechnics, and it is easy to manufacture with a little effort. Of course, the self-made is never as fine as the well-known German Dark Alu, unless you let the ball mill run for 1-3 weeks at a time.

Materials - Scissors - mixer - ball mill

Chemicals - aluminum foil

Manufacturing 1. First you roll out a 10m long strip of aluminum foil on a table and cut it into several

Squares.

2. These are placed on top of each other and folded once lengthways and once across.

- 326 - 3. Then these squares are cut into small shreds and put in a blender.

4. The snippets are shredded at the highest speed until a fine semolina is formed. In between, new snippets are always added to the mixer.

This fine semolina is enough for some spark and tail effects out!

5. But to get really fine aluminum powder for Flash and Thermit, you have to grind the semolina again. This is done using a ball mill. You can either buy them or simply build them yourself.

Really fine powder can only be obtained through long, intensive grinding (days). Before doing this, you should ensure that the ball mill can withstand such a load and that the metal dust does not ignite can!

- 327 - B. aa r ru imm i un i i ta tt rt r a

materials - beakers - stirrer - tripod - Measuring cup - thermometer

Chemicals - 230g barium carbonate - 160ml nitric acid 65% - least. water

Theoretical yield 300g Ba (NO3) 2

Practical yield 220-250g Ba (NO3) 2

Manufacturing 1) First you dilute 160ml HNO3 with 200ml distilled water in a beaker. Water and put a stirrer in the glass. The stirrer is held on a tripod.

2) 230g of barium carbonate are added in small steps.

It should be stirred constantly.

3) After stirring for a further 15 minutes, 1000 ml of distilled water are added to the still cloudy solution. Water added.

- 328 - 4) The solution is then heated to its boiling point. Stir for another 5 minutes and then filter off the contents of the glass.

5) The solution that runs through the filter should now be clear and is cooked with constant stirring until there is only 500ml left.

6) Now the concentrated solution must be slowly cooled to room temperature. A white solid forms.

7) This solid is filtered off and washed in the filter again with 100 ml of cold distilled water. Water.

The remaining solution can be used to remove any barium nitrate that may still be present win, be cooled to 0 °.

- 329 - B. aa r ru imm i up ee r Or xOx id i d

materials - beakers - stirrer - tripod - Measuring cup - thermometer - stove top - filters

Chemicals - 47g barium chloride - 250ml hydrogen peroxide (30%) - 200ml ammonia solution (25%) (Salmiak spirit)

yield 55-60g of the octahydrate.

At 130 ° C the product can be further dried to form a hemihydrate!

A completely anhydrous peroxide can be used at a temperature above 200 ° C but this causes a partial loss Oxygen!

Manufacturing 1) 47 g of barium chloride are dissolved in 250 ml of water.

2) 250 ml of 30% hydrogen peroxide are added to this solution.

3) Now 200ml ammonia solution 24% are added with stirring. The mixture is left to stand until the precipitation of the solid is complete.

3) The clear liquid is carefully poured off (decanted) and replaced with fresh water. The process is repeated 2-3 times.

- 330 - 4) The solution is filtered and the residue is washed with water. It is then dried in a porcelain vessel at 50-70 ° C, the mass being spread out occasionally with a spatula.

5) When the product becomes crumbly, the temperature is increased to 75-80 ° C.

The completely dried product is tightly sealed in a Glass bottle kept.

- 331 - P yy r Or HOH O l l kz O z H Hk le l e

Charcoal is the fuel in black powder, which is why good charcoal is essential for good black powder. From a chemical point of view, it is not just about "C", i.e. carbon, but there are also several complex, organic compounds. In a very simplified way, the formula C20H7O can be specified, but this varies a lot depending on the type of wood. Of course, not every type of wood is suitable, only soft wood. So mostly wood that grows very quickly.

Selection and pre-treatment of the wood

As mentioned above, light types of wood are suitable for this. These include:

- Buckthorn - Willow - Alder - poplar - linden tree - hazelnut - hemp - flax - grapevines

Of course there are also non-flammable substances in the wood. It is mainly potash, sulfates and phosphates.

In order to get these substances out of the wood, you have to let the wood "scent". To do this, you leave the wood outside for about six months and support it so that it does not rot from below. The rain then virtually "washes" the wood out .

In itself, smelling is only intended for people who really want to get the most out of their black powder. So it's more of a minor role.

Willow wood was used for our experiment!

- 332 - 1) First you get the willow wood from the nearest forest and split it into quarters.

With this huge piece it is important to only take the inside. Because only this part is really soft and gives good charcoal.

But you can easily distinguish it from the outside, because the difference in density is really clear. Remove the bark from smaller pieces that have the same density throughout!

2) These pieces now need to be dried. In the air, this can take 2-4 months. And the oven is not a sensible alternative either.

So it is an advantage to have a drying cabinet or a stove. The wood to drive the stove can be collected in the forest for free.

Even so, the process still takes 5 days by one Get moisture content below 10%!

- 333 - The charring

There are 3 options for charring: Meiler, pit and retort charring.

The first two variants are only suitable for larger quantities and involve a lot of effort, which is why we only consider retort charring. The retort charring is nothing else than a distillation in which the wood is separated into 4 components:

- charcoal - wood gas - wood vinegar - wood tar

Since we are hardly interested in the last 3 components, such a distillation apparatus can be improvised quickly, namely with a simple tin can, in which you simply drill a few holes at the top, which then looks like this:

- 334 - 1) The cans are placed in the burning stove with pliers (holes facing up), or in another source of fire. After a short time, the wood gas should rise from the holes, which then ignites:

The wood should be charcoal at around 300 ° C in order to be highly flammable Get red coal!

- 335 - 2) After about 10 minutes the flames should have gone out:

3) The cans are now removed from the fire and immediately covered with tape or similar.

Only as little oxygen as possible should get to the coal! you can then also ignite by itself!

- 336 - 4) Finally, let the whole thing cool down to room temperature and carefully open the can.

The wood tar is deposited very finely on the edge of the can and immediately spreads everywhere like fine dust when the lid is opened quickly!

For the test you can now take a piece and break it through to see whether all the wood has really been charred. Is the wood in Cross-section black throughout, the charring is successful!

- 337 - K aa l ul i m mi un i i ta tt rt r a

materials - beakers - stirrer - tripod - Measuring cup - thermometer - stove top - ice bath

Chemicals - ammonium nitrate - potassium carbonate (Potash) - least. water

Theoretical yield 250g potassium nitrate

Practical yield 180-210g potassium nitrate

Preparations Before the actual synthesis, the following solutions should be prepared:

Solution 1: 200g ammonium nitrate in 170ml dist. Dissolve water Solution 2: 170g potassium carbonate in 150ml dist. Dissolve water

- 338 - Manufacturing 1) The two starting solutions are mixed together.

2) Now the whole thing is cooked at 100-120 ° C until there is no more ammonia odor to be detected, or until the solution is clear again.

(After 3 hours, perfect)

The process can take more than 3 hours, depending on the amount of Solution!

During this time always a little bit least. Add water!

3) As soon as you have reached a relatively clear solution, evaporate it until a cloudy, viscous mass forms. This is allowed to cool to 5 ° C. with constant stirring.

Never use temperatures above 130 ° C. The solution gets hotter and hotter although no thickening has yet taken place, it can anyway be cooled down!

- 339 - cleaning This KNO3 is already sufficient, but if you want pure KNO3 you have to add the following steps.

1) The KNO3 obtained is dissolved in 130ml dist. Dissolved water at 100 ° C, and then slowly cooled to 0-5 ° C.

2) The resulting crystals are filtered off and dried.

- 340 - K aa l ul i m mi uc H l Ol Ora r ta t

materials - beakers - stirrer - tripod - Measuring cup - thermometer - stove top - ice bath

Chemicals - 570g potassium nitrate - 1000ml sodium chlorate solution (600g sodium chlorate / liter) - least. water

Theoretical yield 690g potassium chlorate

Practical yield 450g potassium chlorate

Manufacturing 1) 570g potassium nitrate are dissolved in 400ml distilled water at 80 ° C. Dissolved water.

At the same time, 1000 ml of the sodium chlorate solution are heated to approx. 100 ° C

2) Then the two solutions are slowly added together.

3) The whole thing is then slowly to 10 ° C cooled down, whereby most of the potassium chlorate should precipitate. This is then filtered out first.

- 341 - The cleaning The cleaning of the raw chlorate is a little time consuming, but increases the quality and reliability.

1) The filtered chlorate is distilled in 1200ml at 90 ° C. Dissolved in water.

2) With a refrigerator and later the glass is then cooled to 0-5 ° C. with the ice bath.

3) The precipitating chlorate is filtered off and in the filter with 110ml ice-cold dist. Water washed.

Either let your chlorate dry now, or repeat that Recrystallization process again!

- 342 - N aa t t ur mrm i ni ui i t t r r i i t t

Chemicals: - 100.0g sodium nitrate - 7.5g laboratory carbon or activated carbon

Material: - A tin made of tinplate - Crucible tongs - A bucket of water - Safety goggles - Gloves (latex, rubber, - the main thing is waterproof) - Brenner - Mortar and pestle - beakers - filter paper

Theoretical yield 88-90g sodium nitrite

Practical yield 81g sodium nitrite

- 343 - Manufacturing 1) First, the coal is mixed with the NaNO3 in the specified quantities in a mortar to form a homogeneous mixture. The more homogeneous the whole, the better the yield.

2) The mixture is then poured into a tinplate can (e.g. bean cans) and placed on a tripod.

- 344 - 3) The burner is positioned underneath and ignited. A bucket with water is positioned next to the structure. This is used to quickly cool the NaNO2 melt cake, as NaNO2 decomposes again above 320 ° C. The crucible tongs are placed within reach.

4) After a while the mixture ignites and burns down with a pretty yellow sodium flame.

A lot of CO2 is produced in the process. So don't hold your head directly over it!

- 345 - 5) The burner will now be removed quickly. From now on it has to be quick!

6) Take the can with the crucible tongs and cool it in the bucket with water. As soon as the melt has solidified and finally solidified, it can be dissolved with distilled water

(820 g / L at 20 ° C).

7) Now the solution from the can should be transferred through a filter into a beaker. If everything went well, you only have a clear, possibly slightly yellowish solution. This contains the NaNO2.

8) You can now carefully evaporate.

Stay below 320 ° C, otherwise the sodium nitrite will decompose!

- 346 - S. OO nn s t tG i iee G s

W. ee i i ez n nz P eP aa ss te t (e ( üf fr ür B.B. O mm b ee nn vv ee rk r lke l ied i uud nn G ee nn ) )

Wheat paste is neither a type of bread nor an old pagan drink. In the pyrotechnic scene, this paste is a type of glue substitute that has been found to be incredibly effective at disguising bombs.

The advantages are obvious. Flour and water are cheap ingredients, even in large quantities. Glue is usually quite expensive, even in small quantities, and you have to try a lot before you get the right one.

materials - Pot - stove top - bowl or bowl - Whisk

Chemicals - 50g flour - 300ml of water

Manufacturing 1) First measure 150ml of water and slowly bring it to a boil on the stove.

- 347 - 2) While the water is warming up, mix 150ml of water with 50g of flour in a bowl. This mix is stirred until it looks like "milk".

3) When the mixture is mixed and the water is boiling on the stove, the contents of the bowl are slowly stirred into the boiling water.

4) The whole thing is stirred with constant boiling for another 5-10 minutes and then poured onto a bowl with a lid.

It is best to pour through a filter so that no lumps come with you in!

The mass must be used within 2 days. After that it starts to get "bad"!

If 2 tablespoons of vinegar are added while cooking, it will hold Mass longer than just 2 days!

- 348 - W. ie i vev ie i le lk k O ss te t nne C.C. HH ee mm i ki aka l el inn i beb ee i i GG ee re r c ce H te t nne H Ä nn dd le l ren r ??n

Getting to the chemicals you need is an art in itself in the scene. Regardless of whether they are “pyrotechnicians” or “demolition experts”, every group has problems. For some, even buying KAS or KNO3 is an insurmountable challenge.

We therefore strongly advise against buying special chemicals within Germany. Sulfur, KAS or KNO3 are still relatively harmless and can be bought safely with a little effort.

Buying chlorates, nitrates or metal powder in Germany is like inviting you to an HD (house search). If you don't have absolutely reliable sources, you should look abroad.

And even if you find something here, the prices are usually astronomically overpriced. Either because the seller is aware of our need or simply has profit in mind.

On the following pages we will show you which chemicals we buy, at which prices, where is our business. And believe us, we can get at absolutely everything, whether for pyrotechnics or explosives.

All prices in euros (British pounds and Russian rubles already converted), and all of our fabrics are almost as fine as talc powder when you buy them.

- 349 - 100 g 150g 250 g 500g 1 kg Ammonium nitrate 3 € Antimony trisulfide 7 € Aluminum powder € 2.50 6 € German Dark Alu 5 € Barium nitrate 4-5 € Barium peroxide 5 € Barium carbonate € 2 3 € Bismuth trioxide 4 € Betonite 4 € Lead tetraoxide € 12 Dextrin 1 € Iron powder 1 € Iron oxide (black) € 2.20 Iron oxide (red) € 2 Charcoal powder 7 € Potassium nitrate 1.40 € Potassium carbonate 5 € Potassium chlorate 4 € Potassium perchlorate 5 € Potassium benzoate 4 € Lactose - - - - - Magnesium powder 6 € Magnesium powder 14 € Sodium benzoate 6-7 € PVC - - - - - Red gum € 2 sulfur € 2 6-8 € shellac € 2 Strontium nitrate 14 € Strontium carbonate € 2 Strontium peroxide 9 € Titanium powder 6 € Zinc dust 10 € Professional Quickmatch € 0.60 / m € 0.60 / m € 0.60 / m € 0.60 / m € 0.60 / m Professional electric igniter 0.40 € / pc. 0.40 € / pc. 0.40 € / pc. 0.40 € / pc. 0.40 € / pc. Visco € 0.30 / m € 0.30 / m € 0.30 / m € 0.30 / m € 0.30 / m (2.2mm, 1cm / s) (waterproof)

- 350 - C. HH ee mm i ki aka l el inn i dde aa te t nne bb aa nn kk

The chemical database is used for didactic purposes only

You use the information listed here at your own risk. Damage and loss incurred while handling the corresponding chemicals are not taken over by us.

The manufacturing methods shown here have already been tried out successfully. In general, however, we recommend buying the most important oxidizers.

Never comes up with the idea of asking about perchlorates, metal powders or the like on the Internet or anywhere else. Any idiot will guess what you're up to with it. Better ask seasoned members of the scene for sources. By the way, foreign countries are perfect for

the purchase, in some EU countries you can get almost anything!

The list is arranged alphabetically and to the best of our knowledge. Various metal powders are not listed here.

- 351 - Ammonium nitrate

other names Ammonite nitrate Ammonia nitrate Flammable saltpetre Nitric acid ammonium Ammonium nitrate Ammonium nitricum

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: NH 4th NO 3 CAS number: 6484-52-2 Molar mass: 80.04 g / mol Density: 1.73g / cm3 (20 ° C) Melting point: 169.6 ° C Boiling point: 210 ° C (15 hPa) Decomposition: from 170 ° C Solubility: in water (1877g / l at 20 ° C)

Manufacturing Ammonium nitrate (NH4NO3) is produced by neutralizing ammonia with nitric acid.

properties Ammonium nitrate forms colorless, hygroscopic crystals that melt at 169.6 ° C. The solid can exist in five different polymorphic crystal forms

When heated (> 170 ° C) ammonium nitrate breaks down into water and nitrous oxide. By reacting with concentrated sulfuric acid and subsequent distillation, the nitric acid can be recovered, which is the starting substance for the production of many explosives:

- 352 - use Ammonium nitrate is the main component of many fertilizers (ammonium nitrate-urea solution, blue grain, lime ammonium nitrate, nitramoncal), commercial explosives (ANNM, ANFO, ammonal, etc.)

Because of its latent danger, ammonium nitrate may only be used in fertilizers in mixtures with harmless substances such as lime (KAS27).

safety instructions Never eat and if it comes into contact with eyes or skin, wash or rinse with water. In general, after working with ammonium nitrate, all open skin areas should be briefly rinsed with water. Ammonium nitrate can "make" the skin very dry.

- 353 - Ammonium perchlorate

other names Superchloric acid ammonium

Technical specifications Molecular formula: NH4ClO4 CAS number: 7790-98-9 Brief description: colorless solid Molar mass: 117.49 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 1.95g / cm (20 ° C) Melting point: 210 ° C (decomposition) Solubility: in water (234g / l at 20 ° C)

General Ammonium perchlorate, NH4ClO4, is the salt of the perchloric acid HClO4 with ammonia NH3. It is often made by the action of perchloric acid HClO4 on ammonium chloride NH4Cl.

properties Ammonium perchlorate (empirical formula NH4ClO4) forms colorless, odorless, easily water-soluble crystals that can explode when exposed to friction, heat and in the presence of strong acids. There is a risk of fire in contact with flammable substances or reducing agents such as sulfur, phosphorus, metal powder and organic substances. In a stabilized state (eg with 10% water) the substance is not explosive, but fire-promoting. On contact, severe irritation occurs on the mucous membranes.

The handling of ammonium perchlorate is regulated in the Explosives Act and is prohibited in Germany without a corresponding permit.

- 354 - use Ammonium perchlorate mixed with a binding agent is suitable as rocket fuel for solid rockets, fireworks rockets, model rockets or as explosives. The reason for this is that ammonium perchlorate decomposes according to the following equation when ignited or heated above 200 ° C:

Ammonium perchlorate decomposes into chlorine, oxygen, nitrogen and water when heated above 200 ° C.

Only gaseous reaction products are formed, which expand explosively due to the heat of reaction generated. The ammonium ion acts as a reducing agent, the perchlorate anion as an oxidizing agent. The released oxygen and chlorine can have a further oxidizing effect. Therefore, up to 30% (mass fraction) of aluminum is added, which then serves as the actual fuel and, with its high reaction temperature, keeps the reaction between the constituents of the ammonium perchlorate going. The specific impulse is still lower than with most liquid fuels.

Nevertheless, ammonium perchlorate is and was mixed with other flammable substances (especially aluminum powder) for Rocket boosters are used because they are simple and cheap to construct, for example for Ariane 5, Titan IIIC-IVB, H-II, and Delta rockets. It is also used in flashing stars (strobes), which are occasionally built into large fireworks and fired there in fireworks bombs.

Manufacturing The industrial production takes place electrolytically in the so-called perchlorate cell. First the salt sodium chloride NaCl is oxidized in an aqueous solution to the salt sodium perchlorate NaClO4. The sodium perchlorate is then reacted with an ammonium salt (for example ammonium chloride NH4Cl) in an ion exchange reaction.

- 355 - Dangerousness The uncontrolled burning off of ammonium perchlorate is very dangerous. On May 4, 1988, the chemical accident at PEPCON in Henderson, Nevada resulted in a devastating fire in a factory that manufactured and stored the ammonium perchlorate for NASA's rocket fuel. There was an explosion that could be felt more than 25 miles.

- 356 - Anthracene

other names Paranaphthalene Anthracene

Technical specifications Molecular formula: C14H10 CAS number: 120-12-7 PubChem: 8418 Brief description: white to yellowish leaves with an aromatic odor Molar mass: 178.24 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 1.25 g cm − 3 Melting point: 217 ° C Boiling point: 340 ° C Vapor pressure: 0.13 Pa (69.1 ° C Solubility: - good in boiling benzene - little in ethanol, chloroform, diethyl ether and cold benzene

- insoluble in water

General Anthracene, also paranaphthalene or outdated anthracene, is a colorless crystalline solid that easily sublimates. It is a polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon with the empirical formula C14H10, which is made up of three fused benzene rings.

Extraction and presentation Anthracene is obtained industrially from coal tar. The synthetic production takes place by pyrolysis of 2-methylbenzophenone or by Friedel-Crafts-alkylation of 2-bromobenzyl bromide. Alternatively, it can also be prepared by reducing anthraquinone, which in turn is accessible by the Diels-Alder reaction of p-benzoquinone with 1,3-butadiene or by Friedel-Crafts acylation of benzene with phthalic anhydride in the presence of aluminum chloride. The latter was the original synthesis invented by Richard Anschütz in 1883.

- 357 - The most commonly used reducing agents for anthraquinone are:

- zinc in an alkaline environment, - amalgamated aluminum in secondary alcohols, - Tin (II) chloride and HCl in acetic acid - sodium borohydride

properties Dimerization of anthracene.Anthracene crystallizes in colorless to yellowish flakes that fluoresce violet and sublime easily. They melt at 216.3 ° C and boil at 340 ° C. Anthracene is almost insoluble in water (approx. 0.1 mg / l at 25 ° C), slightly soluble in ethanol (15 g / l) and ether, and readily soluble in boiling benzene. Anthracene only smells very weakly aromatic and is almost odorless. Since only one six-membered ring in anthracene contains a π-electron sextet, it is quite reactive, more reactive than the isomer phenanthrene, which, in contrast to anthracene, has two rings with a π-electron sextet. In particular, positions 9 and 10 are ideal points of attack z. B. for oxidations, by which anthracene can be converted into anthraquinone, for example. Anthracene dimerizes when exposed to UV light;

The flash point is 121 ° C, the ignition temperature 538 ° C. From an air volume fraction of 0.6% it forms explosive mixtures. Anthracene is hazardous to water (WGK 2).

use Anthracene occurs in coal tar, and this is where its name comes from. Anthracene is almost exclusively processed into anthraquinone, which is the starting point for the

Represents anthraquinone dyes and is therefore the basis for the alizarin and indanthrene dyes. Anthracene is also used as a base material for the production of

Pesticides and tanning agents.

- 358 - Barium carbonate

other names Carbonic barium Carbonic barite Witherit

Technical specifications Molecular formula: BaCO3 CAS number: 513-77-9 Brief description: white, odorless solid Molar mass: 197.34 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 4.43g / cm (at 20 ° C) Melting point: decomposition> 1450 ° C Solubility: in water (20 mg / l at 20 ° C) soluble in nitric acid and hydrochloric acid with decomposition

safety instructions Barium carbonate is harmful to health. It has an irritant effect on the mucous membranes, leads to functional disorders in the central and peripheral nervous system, muscle paralysis, gastrointestinal complaints as well as cardiovascular and pulmonary dysfunction.

properties The colorless salt barium carbonate decomposes at atmospheric pressure at temperatures from 1300 ° C to barium oxide and Carbon dioxide:

Barium carbonate colors the flame green, as Ba2 + ions in the burner flame are reduced to barium, which glows in the green area of the electromagnetic spectrum.

use Barium carbonate is used, for example, as a raw material for the production of commercial glass and optical glass. It is also the end product in the detection of carbon dioxide with barite water. This proof is only possible because barium carbonate is sparingly soluble in water.

- 359 - Barium chlorate

other names Barium chlorate Chlorate of barite

Technical data Molecular formula: Ba (ClO3) 2 CAS number: 13477-00-4 Brief description: colorless, odorless crystals or powder Molar mass: 304.24 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 3.18g / cm Melting point: Decomposition from 250 ° C Solubility: in water (256g / l at 20 ° C)

properties Barium chlorate is a colorless powder that decomposes above 250 ° C. It is a powerful oxidizer. Like all chlorates, this compound must be handled with care.

Extraction and presentation In the laboratory it can be produced by electrolysis of a barium chloride solution, with barium chlorate precipitating.

use Barium chlorate is rarely used in pyrotechnics. Nowadays barium nitrate is used to color the flame green, as preparations with barium chlorate can react violently to impact, impact and friction.

Barium chlorate is used relatively seldom today and is only produced in smaller quantities compared to potassium chlorate and sodium chlorate.

- 360 - Barium chloride dihydrate

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: BaCl 2 * H 2 O CAS number: 10326-27-9 EC number: 233-788-1 Physical state: firmly Molar mass: 244.28 g / mol Density: 3.86g / cm3 Melting point: 963 ° C Boiling temperature: 1560 ° C Solubility: in water (375 g / l at 20 ° C)

Properties and use Barium chloride dihydrate is a poisonous solid that is mainly used in flame coloring. It is used in chemistry to detect sulfate ions. It can also be used to make barium salts. Taken orally, the lethal dose is 2-3g.

- 361 - Barium nitrate

other names Barite nitrate

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: Ba (NO 3) 2 or BaN 2 O 6th CAS number: 10022-31-8 Molar mass: 261.35 g / mol Density: 3.2g / cm3 Melting point: > 550 ° C (decomposition) Solubility: in water (90g / l at 20 ° C)

Manufacturing

160ml ENT 3 ( 65%) are diluted with 200ml water. Barium carbonate is added in small steps while stirring.

It must be stirred for about 15 minutes. Then it becomes cloudy Solution 1000ml H 2 O added and heated to the boil. After stirring for 5 minutes, it is filtered. The clear solution is now stirring on about 400ml concentrated.

Finally, the solution is cooled, rinsed with 100 ml of water and allowed to dry. About 200g of barium nitrate should have been produced.

properties Barium nitrate occurs as a colorless crystalline solid. It is harmful to health and a substance that is slightly hazardous to water. In the burner flame it causes the green flame color typical of barium and can be used as an oxidizing agent. Barium nitrate decomposes at temperatures above 550 ° C to form barium oxide, nitrogen, oxygen and nitrogen monoxide. Barium nitrate is a good oxidizing agent because of the oxygen released and, above all, the nitrogen monoxide that is released.

- 362 - use Barium nitrate is used in pyrotechnics to make fireworks and colored sparklers because it turns flames green and is also an oxidizing agent. It is also used as an oxidizer in the primers of cartridges and cartridges. A highly explosive mixture of TNT and barium nitrate is called Baratol.

It is also used in fluorescent screens for television receivers.

- 363 - Barium perchlorate

Technical specifications Molecular formula: Ba (ClO4) 2 CAS number: 13465-95-7 Brief description: colorless crystals Molar mass: 336.24 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 2.74 g / cm Melting point: 505 ° C Boiling point: Decomposition> 700 ° C in Solubility: water (1980g / l) soluble in ethanol

General Barium perchlorate is a chemical compound of the elements chlorine, oxygen and barium with the formula Ba (ClO4) 2 · 3 H2O. It is the barium salt of perchloric acid.

Manufacturing Barium perchlorate can be obtained from barium hydroxide and perchloric acid by a salt formation reaction.

It can also be made by annealing a mixture of barium chlorate and barium chloride.

properties It crystallizes as a colorless trihydrate in the hexagonal crystal system, the crystals are isomorphic to lithium perchlorate. When standing over concentrated sulfuric acid, 2 moles of water of crystallization are already present Easily given off at room temperature, but the anhydrate is only formed at about 100 ° C. It melts at 505 ° C, but at 460 ° C it begins to decompose into barium chloride and oxygen.

- 364 - Dangerousness Barium perchlorate is toxic to the human body and can explode if it comes into contact with organic substances.

use It is used as an oxidizing agent, for gas drying, for ribonuclease determination and for sulfate titration with thorin as an indicator.

Barium peroxide

other names Barium peroxide

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: BaO 2 CAS number: 1304-29-6 Brief description: colorless solid Molar mass: 169.34 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 4.96g / cm3 Melting point: 450 ° C Boiling point: Decomposes at 800 ° C Solubility: slightly insoluble in water (decomposition) in ethanol and Diethyl ether

- 365 - Manufacturing 47 g of barium chloride are dissolved in 250 ml of water. To this solution 250ml hydrogen peroxide 30% (H. 2 O 2) given. Now 200 ml ammonia solution 24% are added with stirring.

The mixture is left to stand until the precipitation of the solid is complete. The clear liquid is carefully poured off (decanted) and replaced with fresh water. The process is repeated 2-3 times. The solution is filtered (Buchner funnel) and the residue is washed with water.

Then it is dried in a porcelain vessel at 50-70 ° C, the mass being spread out occasionally with a spatula. When the product becomes crumbly, the temperature is raised to 75-80 ° C. The completely dried product is kept tightly closed in a glass bottle.

Yield: 55-60g of the octahydrate. At 130 ° C the product can be further dried to form a hemihydrate. A completely anhydrous peroxide can be obtained at a temperature above 200 ° C, but this causes a partial loss of oxygen.

properties Barium peroxide is a chemical compound of the elements barium and Oxygen with the molecular formula BaO 2. When heated above 700 ° C, BaO gives 2 Oxygen from.

Barium peroxide can, due to its relationship to H 2 O 2 act as both oxidizing and reducing agents.

use Barium peroxide is mainly used in pyrotechnics as a Oxygen supplier and used to produce green flame colors. With magnesium powder it is used in ignition cherries. It is also used to discolour lead glasses and to bleach straw and silk.

- 366 - Lead (II) nitrate

other names Lead nitrate

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: Pb (NO 3) 2 CAS number: 10099-74-8 Brief description: colorless and odorless solid Molar mass: 331.21 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 4.53g / cm3 Melting point: 470 ° C (decomposition) Solubility: in water (522g / l at 20 ° C)

safety instructions Lead nitrate is toxic to humans and can cause serious environmental damage.

properties In contrast to many other lead (II) salts such as lead (II) chloride or lead (II) sulfate, lead (II) nitrate is readily soluble in water.

If lead (II) nitrate is heated up to its decomposition temperature of 470 ° C, it is converted into lead (II) oxide with the formation of nitrogen dioxide and oxygen:

This chemical reaction is therefore suitable for the formation of small quantities of the gas nitrogen dioxide in the laboratory. Because of the release of oxygen, lead (II) nitrate is used as an oxidizing agent in the synthesis of dyes.

toxicity Lead nitrate is toxic, teratogenic and can possibly impair fertility. It can be absorbed through the skin, even if only in negligible amounts. It also poses a threat to the environment as it is toxic to aquatic organisms.

- 367 - use Lead (II) nitrate is still used in the production of textile stains, matches, special explosives, etching solutions and for coloring mother-of-pearl.

Barium sulfate

other names Barite

Technical specifications Molecular formula: BaSO4 CAS number: 7727-43-7 ATC code: V08BA02 V08BA01 Brief description: colorless rhombic crystals Molar mass: 233.39 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 4.5g / cm Melting point: 1580 ° C (decomposition) Solubility: insoluble in water

Occurrence In nature, barium sulfate occurs in the mineral baryte (barite), which is the main raw material for the production of other barium compounds.

Manufacturing Barium sulfate can be obtained by reacting barium bromide with zinc sulfate.

- 368 - properties Barium (ordinal number 56 in PSE) is derived from the Greek βαρύς / barys / "heavy". Due to the high electron density, barium sulfate can be used as a positive X-ray contrast medium. The natural mineral takes its name from this meaning of the word.

As a laboratory chemical, barium sulfate is a white powder that is practically insoluble in water. In contrast to other barium compounds, it is not a hazardous substance.

At high temperatures, barium sulfate decomposes into barium oxide, sulfur dioxide and oxygen:

Extraction and presentation Barium sulfate in the product form Blanc fix is a synthetic, i.e. artificially produced, filler. The precipitation of the barium sulfide with sodium sulfate leads to a product that can be processed in a very fine-grained manner.

The precipitated barium sulfate is filtered off, dried and ground. The pure white barium sulfate usually has a particle size in the single-digit micrometer range.

To produce Blanc-fix pastes with a 25 to 30 percent solids content, barium chloride is reacted with sodium sulfate to form insoluble barium sulfate.

The barium chloride solution usually comes from lithopone production or is produced by reacting barium sulfide with hydrochloric acid.

In the past, barium sulfate was produced when hydrogen peroxide was produced from barium peroxide when it was reacted with sulfuric acid.

- 369 - Boric acid

other names Borofax

Technical specifications Molecular formula: H3BO3 CAS number: 10043-35-3 PubChem: 7628 ATC code: S02AA03 Brief description: White dust Molar mass: 61.83 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 1.44 g / cm Melting point: 185 ° C (decomposition) Vapor pressure: 2.7hPa (20 ° C) Solubility: in water (50g / l at 20 ° C)

Occurrence and extraction Free boric acid is found in the water vapor sources (fumaroles) of central Italy in Tuscany; the acid can be obtained from these sources by evaporation in shiny flakes. Boric acid is also found in Tuscany as the mineral sassolin. However, alkali and alkaline earth salts, such as the mineral kernite Na2B4O7 · 4 H2O, are of great importance. A similar, rarer mineral is borax, which contains 8 or 10 equivalents of crystal water. Nowadays, however, this is mainly obtained from kernite. By treating borax with hydrochloric acid or sulfuric acid, boric acid can be released.

- 370 - properties Pure boric acid forms flaky, colorless, shiny crystals, which have a melting point of 171 ° C. These form a layer structure in which between the individual boric acid molecules

Hydrogen bonds are formed. The distance between two layers is 318 pm.

Initially it is difficult to dissolve in water, but this process accelerates as the concentration increases. The solution is weakly acidic. When the orthoboric acid is heated, water is split off, and the metaboric acid HBO2, which occurs in several modifications, and finally diboron trioxide (B2O3) with further elimination of water are formed.

Despite its three hydrogen atoms, boric acid reacts in water like a monoprotonic acid and reacts to form the tetrahydroxoborate ion, B (OH) 4-. It does not behave like a Brønsted acid as a proton donor, but like a Lewis acid as a hydroxide acceptor:

Boric acid is a very weak acid (pKa = 9.25). By reacting with polyhydric alcohols such as mannitol, the acid strength can be increased considerably. This is due to a shift in the equilibrium to the right towards a tetraoxoborate derivative as a result of esterification:

proof Boric acid and its salts, the borates, form the volatile boric acid methyl ester with methanol, which burns with a green flame and is used for qualitative boron detection. In the case of ethanol and higher alcohols, an addition of concentrated sulfuric acid is necessary for esterification.

use In medicine, boric acid is used as an aqueous solution (boron water) and ointment (boron ointment) as a mild disinfectant and is approved as a preservative E 284. Boric acid is a

Intermediate product for the production of borosilicate glass, porcelain, enamel and also occurs in flame retardants and stains. The world annual production of boric acid is over 200 kilotons.

- 371 - Another application of boric acid is in nuclear power plants with pressurized water reactors. There, because of the high absorption coefficient for thermal neutrons of the 20 percent isotope B-10 in natural boron, boric acid is used to control the multiplication factor k and thus the performance of the reactor.

Boric acid is also used to calculate the carbon dioxide content in geological times. In an acidic environment, 11-boron is increasingly incorporated into boric acid. When the pH value changes to alkaline, the boric acid is converted into borate, the salt of boric acid. Since foraminifera (fossil and recent unicellular organisms) need borate to build their shell, the ratio can be used to determine which pH value was present in this area at which point in the history of the earth. Since the shells of such protozoa and mussels etc. make up the main part of the marine sediment, sediment cores can simply be removed from there and examined in the laboratory for the two boron isotopes. Such results correlated excellently with those from air bubbles trapped in ice cores.

Boric acid in combination with methanol causes a green flame color; in combination with other alcohols a green flame border. This property is used in pyrotechnics to, for example, color the flames of fire sticks, poi or fire bowls.

3% boric acid solution (boron water) can be used for caustic burns. It is not corrosive itself and can neutralize alkalis.

Up to 1.3% boric acid was detected in slime sold as toys (“Slimys”). The viscosity of the slimy mass increases with the boric acid content. During production, it is important to ensure that the content is consistently low, as adverse effects on health must be expected even if only 50 mg / kg of body weight are consumed.

- 372 - Dextrin

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: C. 6th H 12 O 6th CAS number: 9004-53-9 Type of polymer: Homoglycan Brief description: white crystalline powder Molar mass: 180.16 g / mol Physical state: firmly Solubility: soluble in water properties Dextrins, also called starch gums, are poly and Oligosaccharide mixtures and are usually in the form of white or light yellow powder. They are mainly obtained from wheat and corn starch by dry heating under the action of acid.

In nature, for example, dextrin is produced by Bacillus macerans. Dextrins also form in the crust of pastries and in roux. They arise from polysaccharides, in the absence of water and at high temperatures from 150 ° C. They give the biscuits their color and typical taste.

In the past, dextrins were also known as roasted dextrins, because the production process is actually equivalent to roasting due to the high temperatures and dry heat. This treatment makes some of the dextrins insensitive to the digestive enzymes in the human body and is not broken down in the small intestine, which enables dextrins to be used as dietary fiber.

use Dextrins are used in pyrotechnics and, among other things, as soluble fiber in foods, as binders for watercolors and as adhesives, for example in cigarette filter paper.

- 373 - Iron (III) oxide

other names Hematite (mineral) Red iron oxide Diiron trioxide Iron equioxide

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: Fe 2 O 3 CAS number: 1309-37-1 Brief description: red to black crystals Molar mass: 159.70 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 5.24g / cm3 Melting point: 1565 ° C Solubility: insoluble in water

Manufacturing It is possible to obtain red iron oxide by burning iron (III) oxide hydroxide, among other things. In the process, yellow iron oxide is heated to over 200 ° C, with water vapor being formed.

At the moment the price on the Internet is only 3-4 € per kilo (you just have to have a good source). Therefore, it is not worth making your own.

properties Iron (III) oxide is a stable oxide of iron. Among other things, it is part of the rust and causes its color.

use Iron (III) oxide is used as a pigment and is known as iron oxide red. The hue varies between red-orange and deep red. It is also the main component of natural red earths.

It is also the main component of thermite, which is used to weld railroad tracks.

- 374 - Gum arabic

Gum arabic (also gum arabic) is obtained as an exudate from the sap of Verek acacia (Acacia senegal) and Seyal acacia (Acacia seyal). Gum arabic is a natural polysaccharide.

General Gum arabic consists of colorless to brown, dull, brittle, odorless pieces with shiny breakage, which dissolve in warm water to a clear, viscous, sticky, bland-tasting and slightly acidic liquid, insoluble in alcohol.

It consists mainly of the acidic alkaline earth and alkali salts of the so-called arabinic acid (polyarabic acid), among which a branched polysaccharide consisting of L-arabinose, D-galactose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in a ratio of 3: 3: 1: 1 understands.

The annual world demand of 50,000 - 60,000 tons is covered to 75 percent by the Sudan. It is mainly obtained from the bark of various acacias.

use As a food additive, gum arabic is added to foods as a thickener, emulsifier and stabilizer. Particularly noteworthy is the application in beverage emulsions as well as in the confectionery sector and in the manufacture of medicines (rubber articles and coated tablets).

A previously widespread use of gum arabic is gumming paper. As a result, labels, postage stamps, envelopes, cigarette paper, packaging or adhesive tapes can be sealed or "glued" when moistened.

It is also used as an additive in tobacco products (gumming of the papers).

- 375 - Gum arabic is used to make artist's paints: for watercolor, gouache and tempera paints. It serves as a binding agent for the color pigments. In glass painting, too, the powdery, ceramic glass enamel paints are rubbed on so that they can be painted. In organ building, gum arabic is used in a mixture with chalk for surface protection and later for polishing in the manufacture of metal pipes.

Gum arabic was also used in classic lithography for the necessary pretreatment of the litho stones before the actual paint application.

Louis-Alphonse Poitevin developed a photographic pigment process with gum arabic and chromates in 1855. Rubber printing is one of the classic fine printing processes that was improved by John Pouncy (1820-1894) in 1858. It is still used today by artists and photographers.

In ancient Egypt, gum arabic was used to embalm the dead.

A solution of gum arabic is called gum water. Ink was made from rubber water and soot in ancient times in Egypt and China.

Extraction You cut the tree bark at a downward angle. The milky sap that emerges forms a drop with a diameter of 2 - 7 cm. This juice is collected and dried. Usually another cut is made below the old one every other day.

- 376 - Hexamine

other names Urotropin Hexamethylenetetramine 1,3,5,7-tetraazaadamantane Formin Methenamine Dry alcohol

Technical specifications Molecular formula: C6H12N4 CAS number: 100-97-0 PubChem: 4101 INDEX number: 612-101-00-2 EC number: 202-905-8 Brief description: colorless solid with unpleasant smell Molar mass: 140.19 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 1.33 g / cm Melting point: Decomposition: 263 ° C Vapor pressure. 50 mPa (20 ° C) Solubility: in water 895g / l at 20 ° C in chloroform 199gl in methanol 57g / l in ethanol 23g / l in diethyl ether 0.4g / l

General Urotropin is a white, crystalline powder. The structure of urotropine can be derived from adamantane, a hydrocarbon. The four connection points of the three six-membered rings are occupied by nitrogen atoms, with a CH2 group between each nitrogen atom.

- 377 - use It is used to produce amino and phenoplasts and as a food preservative (E 239, rarely used, only permitted in provolone cheese). In pressed form, it is also used as a dry fuel and is the main component of Esbit fuel.

In organic synthesis it is used as a formyl equivalent (Duff reaction), for the introduction of amino groups, for the synthesis of N-heterocycles and is used in the Mannich reaction. In inorganic analysis it is used in the cation separation process as a buffer substance in the precipitation of the so-called urotroping group (which also includes iron, chromium and aluminum) at pH 5.5. In acidic aqueous solution, urotropine breaks down into formaldehyde and ammonium ions.

Urotropin is also a raw material for the production of the explosives hexogen, octogen, dinitrohexamine and HMTD.

In foundry technology, it is used together with phenolic resin as a resin-hardener system for the shell molding process for the production of shell molds and hollow cores.

Manufacturing Hexamethylenetetramine is formed from ammonia and formaldehyde in an aqueous solution. This reaction is used in the so-called formol titration for the determination of ammonium compounds.

- 378 - Charcoal

General Charcoal is a solid fuel and is produced when air-dry wood (dried to 13 to 18% water) is heated to 275 ° C in the absence of air or without oxygen (pyrolysis). The temperature rises by itself to 350 to 400 ° C (charring, similar to the coking of coal). The volatile components of the wood burn. In addition to gaseous decomposition products (cf. wood spirit), about 35% charcoal is obtained as residue. When burned later, this does not strike any flames and burns at a higher temperature than wood.

The same technique can also be used to convert peat to peat coal. Peat charcoal, which has properties similar to charcoal, was quite common in the 18th and early 19th centuries due to a lack of wood, but is rarely found today.

Properties and composition Charcoal is the carbonaceous residue from wood burning with limited air supply. Charcoal is a mixture of organic compounds with 81 to 90% carbon, 3% hydrogen, 6% oxygen, 1% nitrogen, 6% moisture and 1 to 2% ash.

The charcoal forms a loose, black product with the apparent density of 450 kg / m³ (porous) and the true density of 1,400 kg / m³ (non-porous). Because of the many microscopic niches, depressions, channels and the like (pore volume 70 to 85%, inner surface 50 to 80 m² / gram) it has a high adsorptive capacity.

Charcoal is relatively easy to ignite (200 to 250 ° C) and continues to burn without a flame because the flame-forming gases have already escaped during the charring.

Burning releases about 29 to 33 MJ of energy per kg of charcoal. It burns sulfur-free.

- 379 - Manufacturing Charcoal is made by heating wood in the absence of air. Different phases of the pyrolysis process are distinguished depending on the temperature.

In the initial phase, temperatures of up to 220 ° C mainly lead to heating and drying of the material, with hydrogen and traces of carbon dioxide, acetic acid and formic acid being released. The release of these substances increases up to around 280 ° C in a pyrolytic decomposition phase, which, like the initial phase, is endothermic. Above 280 ° C there is a strong exothermic reaction in which around 880 KJ / kg of wood are released as energy and heat the process to over 500 ° C. This creates flammable gases, especially carbon monoxide, methane, formaldehyde, acetic and formic acid as well as methanol and hydrogen, which burn and emerge as smoke.The structure of the wood changes from the fibrillar structure of the wood to the crystalline structure above 400 ° C of graphite.

Charring in piles and piles The oldest method of charcoal production (coal distillery) is the kiln operation (charcoal burning), which dates back to antiquity, in which the wood was erected in approximately hemispherical or conical piles (piles) in large logs regularly (standing or lying) around three in the middle Stakes (Quandel) are put on and covered with a blanket of lawn, earth and coal. Under this blanket, the incineration is conducted with carefully regulated air access in such a way that, if possible, not more wood burns than is absolutely necessary to heat the entire wood mass to the charring temperature.

Essentially, only the gases and vapors that develop from the heated wood should burn. The color of the smoke that escapes shows whether the charring is complete. Then you let the kiln cool down and take it apart (coal pulling, coal length).

- 380 - In the past, especially in southern Germany, Russia and Sweden, the wood was charred in heaps or lying plants. The charring of the stratified wood was gradual from one end of the elongated pile to the other. The charred pieces were gradually pulled out.

Charring in ovens In a very similar way to that in piles or piles, the charring takes place in round or square brick kilns, which allow the by-products (tar, wood vinegar, which are usually lost during kiln operation) to be extracted more easily and completely, but deliver a lower yield and less good coal . In these furnaces, as in piles and piles, air comes into the wood to be charred, and a part of it generates the necessary temperature by burning it.

But you have much more control over the charring process and you can manage it better if you char the wood in vessels that are heated from the outside, i.e. without air access. This happens in retorts, tubes or cylinders sometimes with heated air, with furnace gases from the blast furnaces, with superheated water vapors or with the use of forced air.

use You can still clearly see the grain of the wood on the charcoal. Charcoal is used to generate intense heat, especially wherever smoke and flames must be avoided, for example in the forge, when glowing flat steel, during chemical operations, when heating objects in the room, etc. Today, charcoal is mainly used for leisure purposes (e.g. B. for grilling) technically produced.

- 381 - As it reduces metal oxides, charcoal served or serves

- for the extraction of metals from the ores - for the production of black powder, - to defuse the brandy, - for clarifying and decolorizing liquids, - for filtering the water, - to preserve putrefactive substances, - for disinfecting, - for cleaning carbon dioxide (for mineral water), hydrogen, rancid fats and dull grain,

- as tooth powder, - as a polishing agent for metals, - for filling aspirators for use in rooms with harmful gases.

As a soil conditioner, charcoal loosens the soil and also works through its ability to absorb ammonia and carbon dioxide. Ornamental plants with rotting roots can be cured if they are placed in soil mixed with coal. Large wounds on sap plants heal easily if they are sprinkled with powdered charcoal, and such plants, tubers and seeds can be packed well in charcoal for long transport. Recently, charcoal has also been discussed as a rediscovered soil additive in horticulture and agriculture under the name biochar or terra preta.

Retort graphite and coke prepared using a special process are used for galvanic batteries and for the pole tips for electric light. Animal charcoal is used in particular to decolorize liquids. Some types of charcoal serve as black paint (Frankfurt black, leg black, Chinese ink, etc.), and linden and willow charcoal are used for drawing.

Before the development of coking from hard coal to coke, charcoal was the necessary fuel for smelting metal and for smith's forge. Charcoal, whose finely structured surface binds many undesirable organic substances, can also be used as activated charcoal for filtering and cleaning various substances; z. B. in the production of vodka or as a charcoal tablet for diarrhea.

- 382 - Potassium carbonate

other names Potash carbonate of potassium E 501

Technical specifications Molecular formula: K2CO3 CAS number: 584-08-7 Brief description: white solid Molar mass: 138.20 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 2.428g / cm Melting point: 891 ° C Solubility: in water (1120g / l)

General Potassium carbonate (potash), K2CO3, the potassium salt of carbonic acid forms a white, hygroscopic powder with a melting temperature of 891 ° C and a density of 2.428g / cm. The name potash comes from the old method of enriching potassium carbonate from wood ash by washing it out with water and then evaporating it in pots. The traditional name was also the inspiration for the English names potash and potassium.

Deposits The world's largest deposits of potash are in Canada, Russia, Belarus and Germany; Potassium carbonate is also found in some inland waters, such as the Dead Sea or the Lop Nor desert. In the past, potash was mainly obtained from wood ash by leaching. The mineral content of wood ash is around 85%; about 14-19% of this is potassium carbonate.

- 383 - Extraction and presentation Like sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate cannot be obtained using the ammonia-soda process because the intermediate product potassium hydrogen carbonate (KHCO3) is too soluble.

Leaching of plant ash and subsequent evaporation (no longer historically or technically important)

use - Additive in the manufacture of glass - Manufacture of soft soaps - Manufacture of potash glasses - Manufacture of paints - Manufacture of photographic developers - Anhydrous potassium carbonate is occasionally used as a drying agent in the laboratory.

- Raising agents for flat baked goods (cookies and gingerbread, especially Christmas bakery) and dough with a high sugar content.

- Treatment of cocoa - Neutralizing agent when using hydrochloric acid (E 507) as an aroma enhancer.

- Quick drying of raisins: By removing the natural wax layer of the grapes, the moisture evaporates more easily.

- Base product for other potassium compounds. - To remove crusts from pots: put 1 tablespoon on the crust in the pot, let stand overnight and boil the next day with a cup of water; the residues loosen from the bottom of the pot.

- Release agent for plaster casts (sculpture) - Electrolyte component in molten carbonate fuel cells - Additive for the intake of certain addictive substances - Additive in some hand washing liquid soaps

- 384 - Potassium chlorate

other names Potash chlorate Potassium chloricum

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: KClO 3 CAS number: 3811-04-9 Brief description: colorless, monoclinic panels Molar mass: 122.55 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 2.32g / cm3 Melting point: 370 ° C Boiling point: Decomposes at 400 ° C Solubility: in water (73g / l at 20 ° C) in water (555g / l at 100 ° C) insoluble in alcohol

Manufacturing Potassium hydroxide is dissolved in water. Chlorine is now fed into the potassium hydroxide solution.

In addition to water, 5 parts of potassium chloride and 1 part of potassium chlorate are formed. The potassium chlorate now only has to be separated off.

properties Potassium chlorate, the potassium salt of chloric acid, is a white stable salt that dissolves in water to form a colorless solution. The compound has strong oxidizing properties and is used, among other things, to make matches. use

safety instructions Mixtures of potassium chlorate and substances such as sulfur, iodine, carbon or phosphorus are extremely sensitive. You can react to comparatively weak bumps / blows. The use of perchlorates is therefore preferred.

- 385 - use Potassium chlorate is used in the laboratory to produce oxygen. It is used to make matches, light ammunition and fireworks.

It is also used for the production of explosives (“chloratite” contains about 90% potassium chlorate, 10% organic hydrocarbons and an addition of wood flour). These friction-sensitive mixtures have been largely replaced by handling-safe explosives.

It was not without danger to use it for “cracked peas”, where a mixture of potassium chlorate and phosphorus was formed into balls together with gum arabic and then dried.

Potassium chlorate is part of the "Dutch bath", an etching liquid for copper plates made of 88% water, 10% conc. Hydrochloric acid and 2% potassium chlorate, which is used to make etchings.

It is a strong blood and kidney toxin (> 1 g). It also has an antiseptic effect and was therefore used for gargles and mouthwashes. However, there are only a few gargles available that contain potassium chlorate, as its toxicity means that it can only be used to a limited extent. The antiseptic effect is nowadays mostly judged skeptically and even questioned

- 386 - Potassium dichromate

other names Potassium dichromate Potassium double chromate Potassium pyrochromate Potassium chromium

Technical specifications Molecular formula: K2Cr2O7 CAS number: 7778-50-9 Brief description: orange-red, no hygroscopic, triclinic panels Molar mass: 294.19 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 2.68g / cm (α modification) 2.10g / cm (β modification) Melting point: 397.5 ° C (α modification) 89 ° C (β modification) Boiling point: thermal decomposition: ~ 500 ° C in water Solubility: (123g / l at 20 ° C) insoluble in ethanol

General Potassium dichromate, K2Cr2O7, is the potassium salt of dichromic acid, which is unstable in its free form. Other names are: potassium dichromate, double chromic acid potassium, pyrochromic acid potassium, chromium potassium, English: Potassium dichromate.

properties Potassium dichromate forms bright orange-red crystals without crystal water, which have a melting point of 397 ° C and decompose from 500 ° C to potassium chromate K2CrO4 and chromium (III) oxide Cr2O3, releasing oxygen.

Potassium dichromate is a strong oxidizing agent, especially in acidic solution. In an alkaline environment, the yellow chromate CrO42− is mainly present, which is far less oxidizing.

- 387 - Potassium dichromate is readily soluble in water. The dichromate anion Cr2O72− is in equilibrium with HCrO4−, CrO42− in aqueous solution. Therefore, with barium, lead and silver ions (Ba2 +, Pb2 +, Ag +) yellow, poorly soluble chromates and not dichromates are formed. Many acid anions react to form further anion complexes, for example CrO3Cl− is formed in hydrochloric acid, which can be crystallized as a potassium salt.

Bromide and iodide also react in a similar way, because although (thermodynamically) the oxidation to the elementary halogens should actually take place, the oxidation is prevented by the low reaction rate (kinetic inhibition). The chromium in potassium dichromate has the oxidation number + VI.

Hazard warnings Although the substance was classified as Xi (irritant) until a few years ago and was in many crystal growing boxes and chemistry kits for children, potassium dichromate is now very toxic, oxidising, dangerous for the environment, mutagenic, classified as toxic to reproduction and carcinogenic. It irritates the skin, respiratory organs and the eyes. With repeated skin contact, sensitization occurs and allergies can even develop.

With organic, flammable compounds, reducing agents, concentrated sulfuric acid, metals in powder form (especially: magnesium, iron), violent reactions up to self-ignition or explosion are possible. Potassium dichromate is not flammable, but it is fire-promoting. Potassium dichromate can be disposed of with iron sulfate, whereby it is reduced to Cr3 +, which when precipitated as insoluble chromium hydroxide is much safer. Commercial chromate poisoning is notifiable and

Compensatory occupational diseases.

Extraction and presentation The technical production takes place by melting together chrome iron stone, potassium carbonate (potash) and calcium carbonate and oxidation with blown air. First, the yellow potassium chromate K2CrO4 is formed, which is leached and, after the addition of acid and recrystallization, yields potassium dichromate.

- 388 - On a laboratory scale, potassium dichromate can be obtained by melting together potassium nitrate and chromium (III) oxide. Chromium oxide reacts with potassium nitrate to form potassium dichromate and nitrogen monoxide

use In the laboratory, potassium dichromate is used as a common oxidizing agent, reagent (detection of hydrogen peroxide through blue coloration) and basic titer substance due to its good storability and weighing ability. In engineering it is used in tannery, electroplating and for the production of chromosulfuric acid. In photography and fine printing processes, potassium dichromate is used as a light-sensitive, colloid-tanning substance, especially in collotype and rubber printing. In neurohistology, Camillo Golgi developed a method for staining individual nerves and neurons. Known as the “black reaction”, nerve cells are colored down to the finest structures with the help of potassium dichromate and silver nitrate.

Potassium dichromate used to be contained in chemistry kits. The substance should be brought to the hazardous waste collection facility or a disposal company in its original container.

- 389 - Potassium nitrate

other names Saltpetre Potash nitrate E 252

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: KNO 3 CAS number: 7757-79-1 PubChem: 24434 Brief description: colorless to white solid Molar mass: 101.11 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 2.11g / cm3 (16 ° C) Melting point: 334 ° C Boiling point: > 400 ° C decomposition (partial) > 750 ° C (complete) Solubility: in water 316g / l (20 ° C)

properties Potassium nitrate forms colorless crystals, which dissolve in water under strong cooling. It is therefore much more soluble in warm water than in cold water. Up to 130 g of potassium nitrate can be dissolved in 1 liter of water at 0 ° C, up to 2455 g of potassium nitrate in 1 liter of water at 100 ° C. At such high concentrations, the density of the solution is much higher than that of pure water.

Potassium nitrate decomposes to potassium nitrite and oxygen when heated:

It is an excellent oxidizing agent at elevated temperatures. Charred residue in glass utensils quickly dissolves in molten potassium nitrate.

Potassium nitrate is significantly less hygroscopic than many other nitrates, z. B. Sodium Nitrate.

- 390 - Technical specifications

Molecular formula: C. 12 H 22nd O 11 CAS number: 63-42-3 PubChem: 6134 Brief description: colorless, crystalline solid Molar mass: 342.29 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 1.53g / cm3 Melting point: 223 ° C Solubility: soluble in water GGW mixture: 21.6g / l at 25 ° C α-form: 5.0g / l at 0 ° C β-form: 45.1g / l at 0 ° C

Manufacturing Lactose can be obtained from sweet or sour whey. Lactose is dissolved in cow's milk up to 47 g per liter. Lactose crystallizes from this whey permeate through extensive multiple drying of 2 to 30 hours. However, by decalcium phosphating, electrodialysis and ion exchange in the conventional process, the yield can be increased considerably. The crystalline lactose obtained in this way is crushed, sieved and packed in bags. They are available in four different grain sizes.

properties Lactose (also milk sugar, sand sugar or lactose), derived from the Latin lac, lactis for milk and the ending -ose for sugar, is a sugar contained in milk and milk products in amounts of 1.5–8%. Lactose belongs to the group of disaccharides (double sugar) and consists of the two molecules D-galactose and D-glucose, which are linked by a β-1,4-glycosidic bond. According to IUPAC, lactose is referred to as 4- (β-D-galactopyranosyl) -D-glucopyranose.

- 401 - Magnesium powder

General Magnesium powder is a homogeneous mixture of powder-fine aluminum and magnesium. The ratio is usually 50:50. As with most, this metal powder does not pose any particular danger. A dust mask should be worn when handling magnalium.

use The powder itself is used in pyrotechnics in many crackling and flash sets. In addition, it is often used to generate sparks or wakes.

Sodium benzoate

other names Antimol E 211

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: C. 7th H 5 NaO 2 CAS number: 532-32-1 Brief description: white, odorless solid Molar mass: 144.11 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 1.44g / cm3 Melting point: 410-430 ° C Vapor pressure: <1.0 Pa (20 ° C) Solubility: 660g / l in water at 20 ° C

- 402 - properties Sodium benzoate is the sodium salt of benzoic acid. It is approved as a food additive with the number E 211.

It is a white, crystalline solid. The compound is odorless and highly hygroscopic. It is flammable and readily soluble in water.

use Sodium benzoate has a bacteriostatic and fungistatic effect and is therefore used as a food additive (E 211) to preserve food (optimum effect at pH <3.6).

In pyrotechnics, it is used as a fuel, mostly in connection with fire-promoting potassium perchlorate. The result is the well-known whistle mix.

It is used as a nucleating agent in the synthesis of polypropylene.

In medicine it is used as an emergency medication for the treatment of hyperammonaemia in combination with L-arginine hydrochloride.

safety instructions Sodium benzoate can cause allergies such as asthma and urticaria and puts a strain on the liver metabolism. A British study named sodium benzonate, which is used as a preservative in cola drinks, among other additives as a possible trigger for ADHD.

- 403 - Sodium nitrate

other names Sodium nitrate Chile nitrate Sodium nitric acid E 251

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: NaNO 3 CAS number: 7631-99-4 PubChem: 24268 Brief description: colorless and odorless solid Molar mass: 84.99 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 2.26g / cm3 (20 ° C) Melting point: 306-307 ° C Boiling point: Decomposition from 380 ° C Solubility: in water: 874g / l (20 ° C)

Manufacturing Natural deposits are extracted by leaching with hot brines and cleaned of foreign matter by filtration. The sodium nitrate that crystallizes out in the cold has a purity of about 98%.

The iodate contained in the mother liquor goes into iodine production. Sodium nitrate can also be obtained by reacting sodium carbonate with nitric acid:

Here the absorption of residual gases from ammonia oxidation in concentrated sodium carbonate solution is recommended:

To oxidize the nitrite, it is acidified with nitric acid, oxidized to nitrate in the air and neutralized with sodium carbonate. It is concentrated to a solid in a vacuum evaporator.

- 404 - properties Sodium nitrate (also sodium nitrate or Chile nitrate) is a chemical compound, the sodium salt of nitric acid. In the pure state it is in the form of a hygroscopic (water-attracting), white substance or colorless crystals.

Sodium nitrate is the most important naturally occurring nitrate. The main place of discovery is Chile, hence the common name Chilesalpeter. There are other natural occurrences in Egypt, Asia Minor, Colombia and California.

use - Fertilizer - Building materials industry: cement additive - Additive in chemical drain cleaners - Chemical production: potassium nitrate - formerly also for the production of nitric acid - as preservative E 251 - for curing meat and sausage products (also with sodium nitrite E 250 and potassium nitrite E 249)

- PCM for thermal storage

- 405 - Perchloric acid conc. 70%

other names Hydrogen tetraoxochlorate (−I) Chlorine (VII) acid Superchloric acid

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: HClO 4th CAS number: 7601-90-3 Brief description: colorless, oily, hygroscopic, at the Air-smoking liquid

Molar mass: 100.46 g / mol Physical state: liquid Density: 1.77g / cm3 Melting point: −101 ° C Boiling point: 39 ° C (75 hPa) Vapor pressure: 39.13 hPa (20 ° C) pKs value: −10 Solubility (miscible with): Water, acetic acid, Chloroform, nitromethane, Benzene, dichloromethane, Dichloroethene, acetonitrile

Manufacturing Perchloric acid is obtained by adding strong acids, e.g. B. sulfuric acid, from its salts, e.g. B. released potassium perchlorate. Potassium perchlorate can be removed electrolytically by disproportionation produced potassium chlorate KClO 3 generate when heated.

properties Anhydrous perchloric acid has a strong oxidizing effect, smokes in the air and is hygroscopic and volatile. Perchloric acid is a so-called super acid, i.e. an extremely strong acid (pKS: −10). It causes severe burns (do not inhale vapors!) And is highly reactive.

- 406 - When heating, especially perchloric acid with a mass fraction of over 50 percent, there is a risk of explosion, also when concentrating or concentrating with desiccants. Anhydrous perchloric acid can decompose spontaneously even at room temperature.

Together with a large number of other substances, this can lead to strongly exothermic reactions, heat generation, ignition, explosion or the formation of explosive gases and vapors. Contact with flammable substances poses a fire hazard, as the acid is oxidising due to its high oxygen content. Concentrated perchloric acid is also able to oxidize elemental gold.

Dilute perchloric acid solutions are less dangerous and more stable.

use Perchlorates are strong plant toxins and are therefore contained in weed control agents in addition to chlorates. Perchlorates are also used as oxidants in some explosives and rocket propellants.

In the analysis of heavy metals, a concentrated (> 60%) perchloric acid was used to break down solid inorganic samples due to its strong oxidizing effect. This generally happened at high temperatures. There is a risk that the acid will concentrate further with the evaporation of water. Because of the explosive nature of perchloric acid and its vapors, this method is no longer recommended today. Concentrated perchloric acid should never come into contact with organic material.

In analytical chemistry, perchloric acid is used in particular for anhydrous titrations (amine number). To do this, perchloric acid is dissolved in glacial acetic acid (concentrated acetic acid). This creates acidium ions:

In biochemistry, perchloric acid is used to precipitate proteins. In clinical chemistry, this effect is used to immediately deactivate enzymes when investigating specific metabolic parameters (e.g. pyruvate).

- 407 - Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: H 2 CCHCl CAS number: 9002-86-2 Melting point: Decomposition> 180 ° C

General Polyvinyl chloride is a very stable, white, elastic plastic that is produced by polymerizing vinyl chloride and is known, for example, as cable sheathing, with 57 percent chlorine by mass. Polyvinyl chloride is flammable with a yellow, sooty flame, but does not continue to burn on its own without an external heat source or the presence of an oxidizing agent.

use In pyrotechnics, polyvinyl chloride is used as a color improver. Polyvinyl chloride splits off hydrogen chloride (HCl) during combustion, increases the concentration of chlorine ions in the flame and converts the coloring agents present in the pyrotechnic charge into more volatile chlorides. This leads to a considerably increased light intensity. Therefore, polyvinyl chloride is an important part of magnesium nitrate paint sets.

From an environmental chemical point of view, the formation of "dioxins" when burning halogen-containing plastics is not harmless, but this is put into perspective by the very high combustion temperatures of the pyrotechnic charges and the comparatively very small amounts of polyvinyl chloride used in pyrotechnics.

- 408 - Red gum

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: C. 14th H 17th O 4th

General Akkaroid resin is sold as a red-brown, fine powder and is obtained from the grass tree native to Australia (Xanthorrhoea australis and other Xanthorrhoeaceae), which secretes Akkaroid resin as tree resin.

use The resin, which is insoluble in water but slowly soluble in alcohol, is used as a binder for stars and other pyrotechnic sentences. Akkaroid resin powder can also only be used as fuel and has largely replaced the shellac that was previously widespread.

Nitric acid conc. 65%

Technical specifications Molecular formula: ENT3 CAS number: 7601-90-3 Brief description: colorless, oily, hygroscopic, at the Air-smoking liquid

Molar mass: 100.46 g / mol Physical state: liquid Density: 1.77g / cm3 Melting point: −101 ° C Boiling point: 39 ° C (75 hPa) Vapor pressure: 39.13 hPa (20 ° C) pKs value: −10 Solubility (miscible with): Water, acetic acid, Chloroform, nitromethane, Benzene, dichloromethane, Dichloroethene, acetonitrile

- 409 - shellac

General Shellac, table lacquer, flat lacquer or lacca in tabulis is a resinous substance obtained from rubber lacquer. Rubber lacquer itself is obtained from excretions of the lacquer scale insect Kerria lacca (plant lice, family Kerridae) after sucking on some plants.

The term "shellac" is derived from the Dutch shellac, to schel, "scale".

Extraction Mainly in South and Southeast Asia, and here especially in India and Thailand, shellac used to be extracted in large quantities. Annual production was around 50,000 tons. Around 300,000 lacquer scale insects are needed to harvest one kilogram of shellac.

Lacquer scale insects that live on trees like poplar figs feed on the sap of these trees. They prick the tree, absorb its sap and excrete the resinous substances from it, which then surround the louse. The young lice develop protected in this resin bubble and after a while they bore their way through the resin. This resin deposit is the starting product for shellac extraction.

The resinous twigs are cut off, collected and the resin separated from the wood. The raw material is ground and washed and dried in the sun.

According to Meyers Konversations-Lexikon of 1888, the shell lacquer (back then still written like this) was obtained in India by heating the raw rubber lacquer or the rubber lacquer freed from the dye by washing with water in sacks to about 140 ° C and the flowing resin on banana leaves or Clay tubes froze in a thin layer.

Shellac came on the market in small, thin, angular, tablet-like fragments, but also in the form of cakes (cake varnish) or lumps (lump varnish). Another form were mostly round, a few lines thick, not very translucent, brown-red, very smooth panels of pure mass (blood, button shellac).

- 410 - Shellac can be bleached by dissolving it in a soda solution, exposing it to direct sunlight mixed with chlorinated lime, falling through hydrochloric acid and washing it well.

properties The purely natural granulate is biodegradable and physiologically harmless. The lightness of the color of the paint can be varied by different processing methods. For special applications, the natural wax content of 3% to 5% is almost completely filtered out.

Shellac is very brittle and fragile in the cold and at room temperature, quite hard, odorless and tasteless. It melts when heated and gives off a not unpleasant odor at higher temperatures. It burns with a brightly shining flame.

Shellac is insoluble in water, but swells on contact with water and is therefore not waterproof. It is soluble in ethanol (except for the added wax), borax, ammonia and alkali carbonates and in a mixture of 1 part water and 10 parts acetone, but not in aqueous acids. This is due to the fact that the molecules of the resin contain carboxylic acids, which are deprotonated to ions in basic solutions. The previously non-polar and hydrophobic organic molecule becomes polar enough to be dissolved by water.

Depending on the type, shellac is colorless, yellow to amber and takes on a silky sheen when kneaded and drawn off.

use

Previous uses - sealing wax - varnish - Polish (colorless shellac for white woods) - putty - Handlebar tape sealing (on textile tapes on bicycle handlebars) - sharpening stones - Glue surrogate in hat manufacture - Shellac (water varnish) dissolved in borax was used as an indestructible ink

- 411 - Uses today - Part of yellow Bengal lights - In the food sector with the marking E 904 - - As an enteric coating agent for drugs - For paint production in musical instrument making, - As electrical insulator varnish on windings and as putty, - Release agent and impregnation for plaster molds - Fixing anchor stones - Attachment of threads - Approved denaturant for the incomplete denaturation of ethanol by the federal monopoly administration for spirits

- 412 - sulfur

Technical specifications CAS number: 7704-34-9 ATC code: D10AB02 Atomic mass: 32,065 u Physical state: firmly Density: 2.07 g / cm³ Melting point: 115.21 ° C Boiling point: 444.72 ° C Molar volume: 15.53 x 10-6m 3 / mol

Extraction The solid mineral used to be an important source of sulfur.

Fumaroles occur on and near volcanoes, which with their gases emit not only hydrogen sulfide but also gaseous, elemental sulfur, which condenses at the outlet point when it cools and forms monoclinic crystals above 95 ° C and orthorhombic crystals below 95 ° C. In the Middle Ages, deposits from such fumaroles in Iceland, such as Námafjall, were an important source for the manufacture of gunpowder throughout Europe.

3.5 million tons were mined annually with the help of the Frasch process developed by Hermann Frasch, mainly in the USA and Poland. However, the largest proportion was made up of sulfur obtained from sulphide ores: this source produced around 50 million tons per year. Today sulfur is produced in large quantities as a waste product in the desulphurisation of crude oil using the Claus process.

- 413 - use Sulfur is used in both the chemical and pharmaceutical industries, including for the production of sulfuric acid, dyes, insecticides and artificial fertilizers.

The pharmaceutical benefits of sulfur were known in ancient times. Sulfur was used internally as a laxative. It irritates the intestinal lining. The hydrogen sulfide generated by bacteria stimulates the peristalsis. Outwardly, sulfur formulas were used for skin diseases such as acne, eczema, scabies, mycoses and others. Today sulfur is rarely used in dermatology, but has not yet completely disappeared from the pharmaceutical literature. There are still pharmaceutical preparations that contain sulfur as an active ingredient or excipient. In classical homeopathy, sulfur is one of the so-called great remedies.

In heavy industry, sulfur is important as an alloying element for steel. Free-cutting steels are often sulfur-alloyed, as sulfur leads to increased chip breaking.

Pure sulfur is also very often used in the vulcanization of rubber.

Sulfur is also used in the manufacture of black powder, as nitric sulfur in fireworks, or in other explosives.

- 414 - Sulfuric acid conc. 99%

other names - sulfur (VI) acid - Vitriol oil - dihydrogen sulfate - monothionic acid - E 513

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: H 2 SO 4th CAS number: 7664-93-9 Brief description: colorless and odorless, viscous liquid

Molar mass: 98.08 g / mol Physical state: liquid Density: 1.8356g / cm3 Melting point: 10.38 ° C (100%) Boiling point: 279.6 ° C (100%) Vapor pressure: 1.3 hPa (145.8 ° C) pKs value: - 3.9 Solubility: completely miscible with water

safety instructions Sulfuric acid has a very irritating and corrosive effect on the skin and mucous membranes. It is able to destroy living tissue (chemical burns). The mechanisms of action of concentrated and dilute sulfuric acid must be clearly distinguished. In the case of dilute sulfuric acid, the increased proton concentration has a corrosive effect, ie the effect is similar to that of other dilute acids. Upon skin contact, the effect is mainly local irritation, depending on the concentration. It is therefore significantly safer than concentrated sulfuric acid. Due to its strong water-attracting effect, this has a charring effect and damages the skin and eyes even in small amounts. Healing, painful wounds are slow to form. Sulfuric acid can also be absorbed via vapors from the air, the MAK value is 0.1 mg / m3,

- 415 - Since the reaction of concentrated sulfuric acid with water generates a lot of heat, it must only be diluted by pouring it into water and not by adding water to the acid. If water is added to sulfuric acid, it can easily splash and burn bystanders.

General information Sulfuric acid (according to IUPAC nomenclature dihydrogen sulfate, obsolete vitriol oil) is a chemical compound of sulfur with the Molecular formula H 2 SO 4th It is a colorless, oily, very viscous and hygroscopic liquid. Sulfuric acid is one of the strongest acids and is very corrosive. The mineral acid forms two series of salts, the hydrogen sulfates and the sulfates, in which one or two protons are replaced by cations compared to the free acid.

Sulfuric acid is one of the technically most important chemicals of all and is one of the most widely produced basic chemical substances. In 1993 about 135 million tons of sulfuric acid were produced. It is mainly used in fertilizer production and to represent other mineral acids such as hydrochloric or phosphoric acid. It is mainly used as a concentrated or dilute aqueous solution.

The anhydride of sulfuric acid is sulfur trioxide (SO 3). Is in sulfuric acid above the stoichiometric ratio If additional sulfur trioxide is dissolved, the solution is referred to as fuming sulfuric acid or oleum, as it easily gives off the sulfur trioxide it contains as smoke. Related acids are the

Sulphurous acid H 2 SO 3, which is derived from sulfur dioxide and which Thiosulfuric acid H 2 S. 2 O 3, in which one oxygen atom is replaced by sulfur.

properties Sulfuric acid is a viscous, colorless liquid that solidifies below 10.37 ° C. The common light brown color of technical sulfuric acid is based on organic impurities. Sulfuric acid vapors, which also contain excess sulfur trioxide, form above the boiling point of 279.6 ° C. At a temperature of 338 ° C, the steam has an acid content of 98% and thus corresponds to an azeotropic mixture of water and sulfuric acid. On further heating, the sulfuric acid decomposes into water and sulfur trioxide and is almost completely dissociated at 450 ° C.

- 416 - Sulfuric acid crystallizes as a solid in the monoclinic crystal system in the space group C2 / c. The lattice parameters are a = 814 pm, b = 470 pm, c = 854 pm and β = 111 °. The structure is a corrugated layer structure in which each dihydrogen sulfate tetrahedron is connected to four other tetrahedra via hydrogen bonds. In addition to the crystalline pure sulfuric acid, several sulfuric acid hydrates are also known.

An example is the dihydrate H 2 SO 4th · 2 H 2 O, which also crystallizes monoclinically with the space group C2 / c. There are six different in total Hydrates with one, two, three, four, six and eight equivalents of water are known in which the acid is completely split into oxonium and sulfate ions. The oxonium ions are associated with a different number of water molecules, depending on the hydrate. The melting point of these hydrates decreases as the number of water molecules increases. The monohydrate melts at 8.59 ° C, while the octahydrate melts at -62 ° C.

Strong hydrogen bonds act between the individual molecules, which cause the high viscosity of 24.6 mPa · s at 25 ° C. In comparison, water has a significantly lower viscosity of 0.89 mPas at 25 ° C.

Similar to pure water, pure sulfuric acid conducts electricity to a small extent. The specific conductivity is 1.044 · 10−2 S / cm. The reason for this lies in the low dissociation of the acid through autoprotolysis. Diluted acid, on the other hand, conducts electricity well because of the oxonium ions it contains.

use Sulfuric acid is used in very large quantities and in many areas. Alongside that of chlorine, their production volume is a benchmark for industrial development and a country's level of performance. It is called differently depending on the concentration. Between 10 and 20% one speaks of dilute sulfuric acid or dilute acid, the accumulator acid has an acid concentration of

33.5%, up to a content of about 70%, one speaks of chamber acid, up to 80% of gloversic acid. Concentrated sulfuric acid usually has a content of 98.3% (azeotrope). Dilute acid occurs in large quantities as a waste product in titanium oxide or dye production.

- 417 - Strontium carbonate

other names Carbonic strontium Strontianite Strontium carbonicum

Technical specifications Molecular formula: SrCO3 CAS number: 1633-05-2 Brief description: white, odorless solid Molar mass: 147.63 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 3.74 g / cm Melting point: 1497 ° C (6 MPa) Boiling point: Decomposition from 1200 ° C in Solubility: water (0.01g / l)

General Strontium carbonate, also outdated carbonic acid strontium, is the carbonate of strontium. It has the molecular formula SrCO3.

Occurrence Strontium carbonate is found in nature as the mineral strontianite.

presentation Strontium carbonate is produced by fusing the mineral cölestin (SrSO4) with soda (sodium carbonate).

- 418 - properties Strontium carbonate is a fine, white powder that has properties similar to calcium carbonate. The salt serves as the raw material for the extraction of most

Strontium compounds.

Strontium carbonate does not dissolve in pure water, but in water containing carbon dioxide / carbonic acid. Strontium hydrogen carbonate is formed in the process.

In mineral acids, soluble strontium salts are formed from strontium carbonate. The formation of carbonic acid is observed, which further breaks down into water and carbon dioxide.

At 1268 ° C under normal air pressure, the chemical compound splits into strontium oxide and carbon dioxide.

If the air pressure is increased to approx. 70 bar, strontium carbonate melts at 1497 ° C.

use Strontium carbonate is used in ferrite magnets and serves as an absorber for X-rays in color television tubes. Electrolysis zinc can be cleaned with strontium carbonate. It is also used in glazes and, because of the red color of the flame, in pyrotechnics.

In the past, it was occasionally used in medicine to treat schizophrenia. However, due to the availability of more tolerable agents, it is no longer used. Today the substance is only used in homeopathy under the name Strontium carbonicum, for example for osteoarthritis and cerebral sclerosis.

- 419 - Strontium nitrate

other names Strontium nitric acid

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: Sr (NO 3) 2 CAS number: 10042-76-9 PubChem: 24848 Brief description: colorless crystals that decompose in the heat Molar mass: 211.63 g / mol Physical state: firmly Density: 2.99g / cm3 Melting point: 570 ° C Solubility: in water (660g / l at 20 ° C)

Manufacturing 45g of strontianite mineral (strontium carbonate) are finely powdered and dissolved in about 150g of dilute nitric acid (approx. 25%).

The solution is boiled for a few minutes, possibly im Mineral iron (Fe-III) through the ENT 3 is oxidized. Then digestion is carried out with the to precipitate the iron remaining 5g strontianite powder. This amount must not dissolve completely, otherwise enough of the carbonate has to be added so that something remains undissolved.

Now the solution is filtered, acidified weakly with nitric acid and evaporated to crystallize. The mother liquor can be evaporated further; Depending on the purity of the starting material, it can contain strontium nitrate as well as other alkaline earth nitrates (especially barium and calcium).

If you want the strontium nitrate to be of high purity, you should not concentrate the mother liquor too much. The yield to be achieved is 50 to 55 g.

The strontium nitrate, which is suctioned off with a suction filter and washed with a little (!) Cold water, is recrystallized again from the amount of hot water corresponding to half its weight.

- 420 - The nitrate crystallizes anhydrous from concentrated aqueous solutions, from more dilute ones with 4 and 5 mol of water of crystallization. Strontium nitrate is soluble in about 5 parts of cold, but already in 1/2 part of boiling water. It is sparingly soluble in diluted, but not concentrated, ethyl alcohol.

properties

Strontium Nitrate, Sr (NO 3) 2, is the strontium salt of nitric acid. It is used as an oxidizing agent in pyrotechnics and is there Strontium-typical deep red flame color.

- 421 - Strontium sulfate

Technical specifications Ratio formula SrSO4 CAS number 7759-02-6 PubChem 3084026 Brief description white solid Molar mass 183.68 g / mol Physical state firmly density 3.96 g / cm Melting point 1605 ° C solubility in water (0.11g / l at 30 ° C)

General Strontium sulfate is a chemical compound from the group of strontium compounds and sulfates.

Occurrence Strontium sulfate occurs naturally in the form of the mineral celestine and in the skeleton of the radiolucent animals of the species Acantharia.

Extraction and presentation Strontium sulfate can be produced by precipitating sulfates (such as sodium sulfate, calcium sulfate) in strontium hydroxide or a strontium chloride solution.

properties Strontium sulfate is a white, non-flammable solid. It decomposes at temperatures greater than 1580 ° C. It has an orthorhombic crystal structure similar to that of barium sulfate (see celestine).

use Strontium sulfate is used in pyrotechnics (red flame color), analysis and as a pigment (strontium white). It is also used for the production of strontium (based on the mineral) and other strontium compounds and is used as a component of ceramics

- 422 - Hydrogen peroxide 30%

other names μ-1κO, 2κO′-hydrogen dioxide Perhydrol Hydrogen peroxide

Technical specifications

Molecular formula: H 2 O 2 CAS number: 7722-84-1 ATC code: A01AB02 D08AX01 S02AA06 Brief description: colorless, almost odorless liquid Molar mass: 34.02 g / mol Physical state: liquid Density: 1.45g / cm3 (20 ° C, pure) 1.11g / cm3 (20 ° C, 30%) Melting point: −0.41 ° C (pure) −11 ° C (90 percent) −33 ° C (35 percent) Boiling point: 150.2 ° C (pure) 142 ° C (90 percent) 108 ° C (35 percent)

Manufacturing In the past, hydrogen peroxide was mainly produced by the electrolysis of sulfuric acid. Peroxodisulfuric acid is formed, which is then hydrolyzed again to sulfuric acid and hydrogen peroxide.

Today hydrogen peroxide is technically produced using the anthraquinone process. For this purpose, anthrahydroquinone is converted to hydrogen peroxide and anthraquinone with atmospheric oxygen under pressure. In the next step, anthraquinone can be reduced again to anthrahydroquinone with hydrogen. The gross equation is:

- 423 - On a laboratory scale, hydrogen peroxide is also produced when peroxides are treated with acids. A historically important reagent is barium peroxide, which in a sulfuric acid solution too

Hydrogen peroxide and barium sulfate react.

properties Hydrogen peroxide tends to break down into water and oxygen. An energy of 98.02 kJ / mol is released:

Disproportionation of two molecules of hydrogen peroxide to form water and oxygen.

This decomposition reaction is caused by Mn2 + - (see evidence) or other heavy metal ions, I− and OH− ions, among other things catalyzed. Therefore, H 2 O 2- Commercial solutions with stabilizers (including phosphoric acid) added. It's a strong one Oxidizing agent. When the oxidation state is reduced from −I to −II, the only reaction products are water and oxygen. Difficult to separate or disruptive by-products are not produced, which simplifies its use in the laboratory.

Depending on the position of both redox potentials, H 2 O 2 also act as a reducing agent, so the MnVII (in potassium permanganate) reduced.

use Highly concentrated solutions of hydrogen peroxide can decompose spontaneously with an explosion, therefore a maximum of 35 percent solutions in water are freely available in stores. For industrial needs there are concentrations up to 50% H 2 O 2 in water.

Further areas of application Bleach Water treatment Gray coloring of hair in old age disinfection and sterilization medicine Rocket / torpedo engines Explosives manufacture

- 424 - Zinc powder

other names Zinc powder Zincum purum

Technical specifications Atomic mass: 65.38 g / mol CAS No .: 7440-66-6 EG- / EEC-No .: 231-175-3 Vapor pressure: 1 mm Hg (487 ° C) Boiling point: 907 ° C Melting point: 420 ° C

safety instructions Flammable; Contact with water liberates extremely flammable gases

- 425 - E. t kt iee i tk te t n nt ze zu u mm A.A. uu ss dd r ur ccu kk ee nn

Format: 35x25mm

Format: 40x25mm

- 426 - Format: 105x52mm

- 427 - S. cc H aa bb l Ol Onn ee nn f fü ü r rK K uu bb is i ccs H ee KK aa nn O nn ee nn ss cc H l Äl GÄG ee

(The lid is always a little longer to be able to fold it over the opposite wall later)

cover ground

cover ground

- 428 - F. OO tO t Oss t te r cc r k ke ee nn

D. ee r r F.F. ee u e r br ab l l l l

- 429 - D. ie i HeH e r r se sl lut l t n le uG ee in i ne r r L.L. ee G ee n d a r r yS. y mS.m O ke k b e O mm b

- 430 - - 431 - P r Or Ofe f se s sO nsn ie i lO le l sl es sp sa pn i i s Hs eec s c s F.H F. ee u e r wr we r r k k

- 432 - D. aa ss TT ee aa mm L.L. B.B. VV GG

Are known by many names in the scene. Together the three have been active in the demolition master scene for 21 years. Unfortunately, it has happened again and again in recent years that power-hungry people have pretended to be them in the public forums. Because they were never active in the official forums!

Rashna is one of the few female members of the scene. No matter if the accident with an 11kg propane gas bomb or hers House raids, nothing could and will ever stop them. Was seriously injured in the 2009/2010 internal scene war. Just as loyal as people shy - a spirit of the scene.

Now quite famous for her talent for inadvertently making yellow HMX.

Gigi is a relatively new member of the team. Doesn't work, doesn't exist with him. He in particular creates everything that others consider impossible. His good contacts to the nearest Raiffeisenmarkt are an additional plus.

Even if his parents have no understanding for the hobby, this does not change his determination. 2011 should be his year and the scene will have to remember that name.

The lord is an organizational guru. Breaks every ban through his clean contacts abroad. Unfortunately only really famous / notorious because of his role in the internal war in NRW (2009). Loves standing next to his napalm tunnel bombs in protective gear.

His special greetings go to the government in Berlin. Even if many have asked for it, finally stop talking. The time to talk is coming to an end, now we have to act. The people are suffering while you are still discussing whether there are any problems at all!

A master in improvising.

- 433 - D. aa nn kk ss aa G uu nn G ee nn

At this point we want to thank all of the people who helped us with this project. Even if some of them don't even know that they really helped us with their really good instructions and tips.

And then there are those to whom we want to express our very personal thanks again.

Thanks to:

Blowshitup († 2010) The most loyal person we have ever known. He stuck to us and supported us until the very end. In the end he lost the fight against his own body, but he lives on for us.

With him the scene has lost a very big one. He was already active before the Kranky and the Xplosives, always laughing at her rise and dying. We dedicate the “Gigaschlag” project to him. May he hear it.

Black Devil The myth is alive, after three years of searching we finally met it. His experiences in Afghanistan make any theory of ours regarding IEDs and IEDs ridiculous.

Thank you for the bunker and the experimental area that you made available to us in the "forest". Incredible that someone who works for law and order is so interested in the subject.

Motorbiker The cover picture is really awesome, and that for our supplementary book too. Finally someone in the scene who not only chats around but also acts!

- 434 - Sniperkit8 Your photos and tips about bullet and cylinder bombs are just great. The Lord can't wait to meet you at a meeting.

The Balkan Horde A damn funny group that has always managed to inspire us. Her specialty is pyrotechnic effects without the use of chemicals. Of course, this type of pyrotechnics limits your possibilities, but it is they who have managed to develop this type into an "art".

We thank you for your support and hope you can set your world record!

TRASH The master. Ingenious head with a lot of penchant for jokes.

Thank you for building and managing our sources. We will miss you on the scene. However, we will not accept your complete resignation ... at some point everyone will return.

Your death Sorry that we didn't take your instructions with us. But still you helped us more than most of the other co-authors.

We hope that you will continue to be by our side in the future. And we wish you all the best for your project, if it doesn't work out, a place in our development team for Xplosives 2.0 is reserved for you!

Krymzonpyro Thanks for your great pictures and the instructions for the La Bombas. We have rarely seen such a quality. We wish you and the noodle a lot of fun with your projects.

- 435 - Bondage You have it all. Thank you for your great syntheses and your psychological help, without you it would have been really difficult. Wherever you are now, Viki will think of you forever.

Unknown Your instructions for the rocket are just great, even we couldn't improve them much. Thank you whoever you are.

Roland Bialke It is a shame that you tore the German demolition master scene to its end out of stupidity and sensationalism. But actually we have to thank you a little for that too. After all, your commitment and your “demolition master books” first showed us that we have to create something as a counterweight.

We see and in hell when we arrive after you.

Pyroguide.com What a page, we are thrilled. If you can speak English, that's a real treasure trove. Excellent quality photos make the instructions easy to understand.

firework.net Theory meets practice. Your wiki and forum have been of great help to us. Here you get even more quality than quantity, a must for every budding pyrotechnician.

- 436 - A. l el l s sl HeH aa t te e in i E.nE. nn dd ee

Pyromans Revenge 2.0 ... that's the pyrotechnic legacy of Team LBVG. As mentioned at the beginning, there won't be another book by us on this area of the scene.

After years of pyrotechnic experiments and the development of new ideas and methods, this book is currently the largest in the world. But even now there is still potential upwards.

We hope someone will sit down in 1-2 years and expand this book, just like we did with Vitamin C's Pyrocookbook. The argument: “You can't add anything more” is not an excuse. Overall, one could easily add 100-200 pages to this book through a better structure and division.

But we don't see this task with us, but with any other member of the scene.

In summary, working on Pyromans Revenge 1 and 2.0 was torture. What sounds simple is actually a lot of work. If you want to write an ebook, you have to be aware that it could take weeks, even months, and only if you work 3 - 4 hours every evening.

You also have to be familiar with the topic. Someone who has never built more than a flash firecracker cannot write an ebook about the entire field of pyrotechnics. Good English skills and common sense are also required. Often you have to have done something yourself to notice that instructions are unrealistic or excessive.

With this in mind, the team wishes all readers the best of luck and hopes to hear from other members in the future who have orientated themselves on this book.

On to the next topic….

the authors

- 437 - In memory

At

December 27, 1985 - 05/13/2010

- 438 -