Idaho: Lewis Clark Byway Guide.Pdf
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The Lewis and Clark Backcountry Byway AND ADVENTURE ROAD Tendoy, Idaho Meriwether Lewis’s journal entry on August 18, 1805 —American Philosophical Society The Lewis and Clark Back Country Byway AND ADVENTURE ROAD Tendoy, Idaho The Lewis and Clark Back Country Byway and Adventure Road is a 36 mile loop drive through a beautiful and historic landscape on the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail and the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail. The mountains, evergreen forests, high desert canyons, and grassy foothills look much the same today as when the Lewis and Clark Expedition passed through in 1805. THE PUBLIC LANDS CENTER Salmon-Challis National Forest and BLM Salmon Field Office 1206 S. Challis Street / Salmon, ID 83467 / (208)756-5400 BLM/ID/GI-15/006+1220 Getting There The portal to the Byway is Tendoy, Idaho, which is nineteen miles south of Salmon on Idaho Highway 28. From Montana, exit from I-15 at Clark Canyon Reservoir south of Dillon onto Montana Highway 324. Drive west past Grant to an intersection at the Shoshone Ridge Overlook. If you’re pulling a trailer or driving an RV with a passenger vehicle in tow, it would be a good idea to leave your trailer or RV at the overlook, which has plenty of parking, a vault toilet, and interpretive signs. Travel road 3909 west 12 miles to Lemhi Pass. Please respect private property along the road and obey posted speed signs. Salmon, Idaho, and Dillon, Montana, are full- service communities. Limited services are available in Tendoy, Lemhi, and Leadore, Idaho and Grant, Montana. Traveling the Byway is a Real Adventure! • The Byway is a single-lane gravel road with pullouts. Passenger vehicles can drive the road safely but must have good tires. Buses, RVs, and trailers are not recommended on the Agency Creek Road [see map], which is narrow and has some tight corners. Even if you’re experienced in mountain driving, drive slowly and carefully. • There are three segments to the Byway. First is the “Lemhi back road” in the Lemhi Valley near Tendoy. Second is the “Warm Springs Wood Road” [185] from the valley into the Beaverhead Mountains to Lemhi Pass. The third segment is the Agency Creek road [013] from Lemhi Pass back to Tendoy. • With a 4,000 foot gain and loss in elevation, expect some steep grades, at times approaching 20%. A hard climb on a hot day can cause your vehicle engine to overheat. Shift into low gear, turn off the air conditioning and open your windows. • The Byway is normally free of snow from early June through October. To check on current road conditions call the Public Lands Center in Salmon at (208) 756-5400. 2 • There are numerous opportunities for hiking and mountain biking. At lower elevations, be alert for rattlesnakes. • Cell phone coverage is sporadic at best. • The remains of mining operations are scattered throughout the area. These sites can be very hazardous. Stay out, and stay alive. • Plan on taking a minimum of three hours to drive the Byway. Drive carefully and slowly, even if you’re accustomed to mountain driving. Parts of the Byway traverse steep, exposed slopes and there are no guardrails. Checklist for a Safe & Enjoyable Journey At least half a tank of gasoline A properly inflated spare tire, jack, and lug wrench Drinking water; water from springs and streams must be chemically treated or filtered First aid kit Extra food Sweater and rain gear–it can snow year-round at 8,600’ elevation Flashlight Camera and film, binoculars Books to identify birds and wildflowers 3 A Perfect Set: Mule Deer Antlers Western Meadowlark Idaho’s State Flower: Syringa 4 Scenic Attractions The Byway traverses four habitats: river valley, sagebrush grasslands, mountain forests and meadows, and high desert canyons. The views of the Lemhi Valley and the surrounding mountain ranges are incredible. This is truly some of the finest scenery in America. Wildflowers are prolific in spring and summer. Early mornings and evenings are the times to look for wildlife, particularly where forest and meadow meet. You might see elk, mule and whitetail deer, black bear, moose, pronghorn antelope, coyotes, and many smaller mammal species. Among the many bird species present are golden eagle, red- tailed hawk, chukar, hungarian partridge, blue grouse, sage grouse, nighthawk, mallard duck, Canada goose, great blue heron, mourning dove, boreal owl, four hummingbird species, belted kingfisher, flicker, Lewis’ woodpecker, magpie, Stellar’s Jay, Clark’s nutcracker, chickadee, tree swallow, robin, blue bird, cedar waxwing, Western tanager, song sparrow, Western meadowlark, Brewer’s blackbird, and American goldfinch. Wildflowers bloom in spring and summer, their presence varying according to weather, elevation, and each species’ characteristic requirements. Lemhi Pass is well-known for its wildflower displays. Captain Lewis collected three new plant species in this area: mountain maple, common snowberry, and Lewis’s monkey flower. You may also see desert buckwheat, sunflowers, arrow-leaf balsamroot, buttercups, glacier lilies, larkspur, sticky geranium, sego lily, lupine, forget-me-not, yarrow, bitterroot, phlox, spring beauty, blanket flower, asters, violets, paintbrush, currants, evening primrose, yellow monkey flower, valerian, flax, blazing star, serviceberry, and syringa. By late September shorter days and cooler temperatures release hues of red, yellow, and gold in aspens, cottonwoods, willows, and shrubs. Agency Creek is beautiful in October. 5 Shoshone fish weir on the Lemhi River, 1906 —Smithsonian Institution Shoshone man fishing on the Lemhi River, 1906 —Smithsonian Institution 6 Native Americans The Lewis and Clark Expedition did not blaze new paths here. They followed long-established Indian trails. This is the homeland of the Agai Dika [“salmon eater”] Shoshone, who came to be known as the Lemhi Shoshone after the Mormon settlement of Ft. Lemhi was established in the 1850s. Archaeological evidence suggests that the Shoshone may have arrived possibly 3,500 years ago. The chinook and sockeye salmon that returned here from the Pacific Ocean every summer to spawn were at the center of Lemhi life and culture. Early in the 18th century the Lemhi acquired horses, which greatly increased their standard of living. The men used horses to hunt bison and to transport a winter’s supply of bison “jerky” to winter campsites. Women tanned bison hides and sewed them together to make tepees, which were hauled by horses wherever the family went. Hunting bison took the Lemhi onto the game-rich plains of central Montana, where they came into conflict with other tribes. When their enemies the Blackfeet, Atsina, and Hidatsa acquired firearms from Canadian traders in the late 18th century, the Lemhi retreated to their mountain homeland. An annual bison hunt was still conducted, often with allies such as the Salish [Flatheads], Nez Perce, and Crow tribes. Sacagawea was kidnapped by the Hidatsa during a bison hunt around 1800. She was taken to the Knife River villages in North Dakota, where she and her husband Charbonneau joined the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Fur traders and trappers eventually reached the Lemhi Valley, then missionaries and finally miners and settlers. The Lemhi, now including Sheepeater and Bannock families who had joined the Shoshone, remained peaceful, but found it increasingly difficult to hunt, fish, and gather food in their traditional manner. 7 Fanny Silver was born on the Lemhi Reservation near Tendoy about 1897. She was at boarding school in Fort Shaw, Montana when the Lemhi Shoshone were marched to Fort Hall in 1907. Her family returned to the Lemhi Valley to hunt, fish and gather plants in the traditional manner. Silver died in 1985 when she was eighty eight years old. —Photography by Jed Wilson, 1971 8 President U. S. Grant authorized a small reservation for the Lemhi in the 1870s, but the federal government pressured them to move south to an existing Shoshone Bannock reservation at Fort Hall in 1907. Learn more history by visiting the Sacajawea Center in Salmon and read the names of more than 500 Lemhi who trekked to Fort Hall. The Lewis and Clark Expedition In August 1805 the Lewis and Clark Expedition reached the headwaters of the Missouri River. Lewis set out on foot with a small party to find the Shoshone, Sacagawea’s people, whose horses he hoped would help portage the Expedition’s baggage over the divide. But the mountain barrier he saw to the west from Lemhi Pass suddenly complicated the mission. Could there be a navigable river through such mountains? If not, then the Expedition must buy horses. If they could not find the Shoshone, or if the tribe refused to sell, the Corps of Discovery had only one option: return down the Missouri. Nothing less than the success of the Expedition, and the future of the United States, were at stake. Euro-American Settlement Trappers, explorers, and missionaries followed in the wake of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Permanent settlement began in the 1860s when gold was discovered in the nearby mountains and miners arrived. The Lemhi Valley was bracketed by the towns of Salmon City at the mouth of the Lemhi River and Junction at its headwaters. The valley and its major tributaries were soon occupied by ranchers and farmers, many of whose descendants still live here today. The land that was not claimed by settlers was eventually brought under the management of the United States Forest Service and the Bureau of Land Management. 9 LOCATION MAP k e Baker e r C IDAHO MONTANA t t P r a Salmon S a n d y C r . k e e r C y r . e C n e k n t t e e e K a e P r Mile 8.2 C Flag Unfurling .