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Explores Form Possibilities in Knitwear Through Material Interactions
Contract knit Explores form possibilities in knitwear through material interactions Bachelor in Fine Arts; Fashion Design Sofie Larsson May 2015 2015.3.04 Index Abstract 1 Look book 2 Introduction to the field 18 Abstract Knitting 18 Intarsia knit 18 The focus of this degree work is on material interaction within the field of knitwear. Material combinations are often seen in fashion as a decorative effect to add shine, transparency Motive and idea discussion 19 or blocks of colour. The materials are put together as one flat material. Material interaction in fashion 19 Form in knitwear 20 This work embraces the different qualities and explores the possibilities to use material interac- tion as a way of creating form on the body. Aim 21 To achieve this, material experiments have been made to find combinations that had a big impact on each other. The materials that were found to be most suitable for this were the combination of Design method and design of experiments 22 metal and lycra yarn. This combination showed contrast in both volume and in density. The result is a collection of seven examples that is based from square knitted pieces where the Development 24 interaction changes the form of the material and the garment. Material development 24 Shape development 32 Creating form from material combination could lead to a new method of creating garments with larger form possibilities than is seen today in ready to wear knitted garments. Colour 40 Garment development 48 Lineup development 52 Result 54 Materials 55 Presentation of collection 56 Discussion & Reflection 86 References 88 Figure references 89 Appendix 1 - Critique Keywords Knitting, knitwear, fashion design, material interaction, form 1 Look book Model/ Sofia K. -
Framework Knitting and the Hosiery Trade
BELPER TOWN CENTRE FRAMEWORK KNITTING AND THE HOSIERY TRADE DERWENT VALLEY VISITOR CENTRE The partnership between Brettle and Ward was dissolved and George Brettles built his own factory Framework Knitting in 1834. These two firms were of considerable size. They made silk stockings for George III, George IV and Queen Victoria. and the Ward’s ceased trading in the 1930’s and Brettles in 1987. Many smaller hosiery firms provided work for local people and these were scattered around the Hosiery trade town. All these factories have closed except for Aristoc which now operates across the road in the West Mill. Circular knitting slowly superseded flatbed knitting, as it was more efficient. Today all hosiery is made this way. For more information visit Strutt’s North Mill, The Derwent Valley Visitor Centre Bridgefoot, Belper, Derbyshire, DE56 1YD Tel: 01773 880474 / 0845 5214347 BELPER NORTH MILL Email: [email protected] www.belpernorthmill.org.uk Local Interest Leaflet The existing part of Brettles factory, now De Bradelei Stores Leaflet design by Mayers Design Ltd · www.mayers-design.co.uk Number 3 Framework knitters earned a poor living, usually their on by hand. After a brief partnership with two Derby frames were hired from the hosier who was supplying hosiers, Jedediah formed a successful partnership with the yarn and selling the stockings. The framework Samuel Need, an older, experienced hosier from knitter would have to pay the rent for the frame Nottingham who was able to finance the venture. This even when there was no work. The machines were made Jedediah Strutt’s first fortune. -
Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Identification
Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace DATS in partnership with the V&A DATS DRESS AND TEXTILE SPECIALISTS 1 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Text copyright © Jeremy Farrell, 2007 Image copyrights as specified in each section. This information pack has been produced to accompany a one-day workshop of the same name held at The Museum of Costume and Textiles, Nottingham on 21st February 2008. The workshop is one of three produced in collaboration between DATS and the V&A, funded by the Renaissance Subject Specialist Network Implementation Grant Programme, administered by the MLA. The purpose of the workshops is to enable participants to improve the documentation and interpretation of collections and make them accessible to the widest audiences. Participants will have the chance to study objects at first hand to help increase their confidence in identifying textile materials and techniques. This information pack is intended as a means of sharing the knowledge communicated in the workshops with colleagues and the public. Other workshops / information packs in the series: Identifying Textile Types and Weaves 1750 -1950 Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740-1890 Front cover image: Detail of a triangular shawl of white cotton Pusher lace made by William Vickers of Nottingham, 1870. The Pusher machine cannot put in the outline which has to be put in by hand or by embroidering machine. The outline here was put in by hand by a woman in Youlgreave, Derbyshire. (NCM 1912-13 © Nottingham City Museums) 2 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Contents Page 1. List of illustrations 1 2. Introduction 3 3. The main types of hand and machine lace 5 4. -
A History of Woolcombing, Yarn Spinning & Framework Knitting In
A HISTORY OF WOOLCOMBING, YARN SPINNING & FRAMEWORK KNITTING IN LOCAL VILLAGES BY SAMUEL T STEWART – MAY 2020 1 EXTRACTS FROM THE REPORTS IN PART 3 2 CONTENTS PART 1 – PAGE 4 A SYNOPSIS OF THE WOOL COMBING INDUSTRY BASED MAINLY ON RESEARCH CARRIED OUT BY THE AUTHOR ON THE SHERWINS’ OF COLEORTON PART 2 – PAGE 7 THE FRAMEWORK KNITTING INDUSTRY PART 3 – PAGE 13 REPORTS FROM THE COMMISSIONERS’ ON FRAMEWORK KNITTERS IN LEICESTERSHIRE, CARRIED OUT BY ORDER OF THE HOUSE OF LORDS IN 1845 - Reports from Belton (page 14) - Reports from Whitwick (page 17) - Report from Osgathorpe (page 32) - Reports from Thringstone (page 33) FURTHER RECOMMENDED READING – FRAMEWORK KNITTING BY MARILYN PALMER SHIRE LIBRARY © Samuel T Stewart – May 2020 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without first seeking the written permission of the author 3 PART 1 A SYNOPSIS OF THE WOOL COMBING INDUSTRY BASED ON RESEARCH CARRIED OUT ON THE SHERWINS’ OF COLEORTON The author has written a book entitled “The Coleorton Sherwins’ 1739-1887” from which certain parts of the following are taken. This is on the author’s website as a free to down load and read pdf doc. In order to understand the Framework Knitting industry which features later, it is necessary to first understand something about the production of the raw material (yarns) used in the knitting process. It should be noted that the word “Hosier” is a general description for a manufacturer involved in the hosiery industry. -
The Textile Machinery Collection at the American Textile History Museum a Historic Mechanical Engineering Heritage Collection
THE TEXTILE MACHINERY COLLECTION AT THE AMERICAN TEXTILE HISTORY MUSEUM A HISTORIC MECHANICAL ENGINEERING HERITAGE COLLECTION Textiles are an important part of our everyday lives. They clothe and comfort us, protect our first-responders, Introduction filter the air in our automobiles, and form the core of the fuselage in our newest aircraft. We enjoy their bright colors, wrap up in their warmth, and seldom give a second thought to how they make bicycles stronger and lighter or how they might be used to repair our vital organs. As textiles have changed from the first simple twisted fibers to high-tech smart fabrics, the tools and machinery used to make them have evolved as well. Drop spindles and spinning wheels have given way to long lines of spinning frames. And looms now use puffs of air instead of the human hand to insert the weft thread in a growing length of fabric. During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, textile manufacture was the catalyst for the Industrial Revolution in America. It was the leading edge in the transformation from an agricultural to a manufacturing economy and started the move of significant numbers of people from rural areas to urban centers. With industrialization came a change in the way people worked. No longer controlled by natural rhythms, the workday demanded a life governed by the factory bell. On the consumer side, industrialization transformed textiles from one of a person’s most valuable possessions to a product widely available at incredibly low prices. For more than a century, textile mills in Great Britain and the United States dominated textile production and led the industrial revolution in both Europe and North America. -
School Officials Returned to Posts
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Ohlin on the Great Depression
Ohlin on the Great Depression BENNY CARLSON | LARS JONUNG KNUT WICKSELL WORKING PAPER 2013:9 Working papers Editor: F. Lundtofte The Knut Wicksell Centre for Financial Studies Lund University School of Economics and Management Ohlin on the Great Depression Ten newspaper articles 1929-1935 selected by Benny Carlson and Lars Jonung Abstract: Bertil Ohlin was a most active commentator on current economic events in the inter- war period, combining his academic work with a journalistic output of an impressive scale. He published more than a thousand newspaper articles in the 1920s and 1930s, more than any other professor in economics in Sweden. Here we have collected ten articles by Ohlin, translated from Swedish and originally published in Stockholms-Tidningen, to trace the evolution of his thinking during the Great Depression of the 1930s. These articles, spanning roughly half a decade, bring out his response to the stock market crisis in New York in 1929, his views on monetary policy in 1931, on fiscal policy and public works in 1932, his reaction to Keynes' ideas in 1932 and 1933 and to Roosevelt's New Deal in 1933, and, finally, his stand against state socialism in 1935. At the beginning of the depression, Ohlin was quite optimistic in his outlook. But as the downturn in the world economy deepened, his optimism waned. He dealt with proposals for bringing the Swedish economy out of the depression, and reported positively on the policy views of Keynes. At an early stage, he recommended expan- sionary fiscal and monetary policies including public works. This approach permeated the contributions of the young generation of Swedish economists arising in the 1930s, eventually forming the Stockholm School of Economics. -
Eli Heckscher,Sweden,Liberalism
Discuss this article at Journaltalk: http://journaltalk.net/articles/5902 ECON JOURNAL WATCH 13(1) January 2016: 75–99 Eli Heckscher’s Ideological Migration Toward Market Liberalism Benny Carlson1 LINK TO ABSTRACT Sweden is a country that is often misunderstood by outsiders, and even by Swedes themselves. From the latter part of the nineteenth century, Sweden’s eco- nomic policies were quite liberal, and for 100 years, say from 1870 to 1970, the economy grew rapidly (see Schön 2011; Bergh 2014). During this period Sweden enjoyed relatively high-quality public debate—a tradition in which Sweden still remains quite exceptional. Leading economists took active part and influenced opinion; they were genuine leaders in public discourse. Five titans stand out: Knut Wicksell, Gustav Cassel, Eli Heckscher, Bertil Ohlin, and Gunnar Myrdal.2 The first three were highly liberal. Ohlin began as liberal, like his mentor Heckscher, but moved to a position of social liberalism, or moderate welfare-statism, and became a leading politician (Berggren 2013). Myrdal represents Sweden’s turn toward social democracy (Carlson 2013). Here I tell of Eli Heckscher (1879–1952), and in particular of his ideological development. For most of his life Heckscher was the most firmly principled eco- nomic liberal Sweden had. He fought against state-socialist tendencies, Keynesian crisis policy, and economic planning, and had only one real rival, Gustav Cassel, 1. Lund University School of Economics and Management, 221 00 Lund, Sweden. I thank MIT Press for their permission to incorporate in this article some material that was previously published in a chapter of Eli Heckscher, International Trade, and Economic History, edited by Ronald Findlay, Rolf G. -
A Dictionary of Men's Wear Works by Mr Baker
LIBRARY v A Dictionary of Men's Wear Works by Mr Baker A Dictionary of Men's Wear (This present book) Cloth $2.50, Half Morocco $3.50 A Dictionary of Engraving A handy manual for those who buy or print pictures and printing plates made by the modern processes. Small, handy volume, uncut, illustrated, decorated boards, 75c A Dictionary of Advertising In preparation A Dictionary of Men's Wear Embracing all the terms (so far as could be gathered) used in the men's wear trades expressiv of raw and =; finisht products and of various stages and items of production; selling terms; trade and popular slang and cant terms; and many other things curious, pertinent and impertinent; with an appendix con- taining sundry useful tables; the uniforms of "ancient and honorable" independent military companies of the U. S.; charts of correct dress, livery, and so forth. By William Henry Baker Author of "A Dictionary of Engraving" "A good dictionary is truly very interesting reading in spite of the man who declared that such an one changed the subject too often." —S William Beck CLEVELAND WILLIAM HENRY BAKER 1908 Copyright 1908 By William Henry Baker Cleveland O LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Copies NOV 24 I SOB Copyright tntry _ OL^SS^tfU XXc, No. Press of The Britton Printing Co Cleveland tf- ?^ Dedication Conforming to custom this unconventional book is Dedicated to those most likely to be benefitted, i. e., to The 15000 or so Retail Clothiers The 15000 or so Custom Tailors The 1200 or so Clothing Manufacturers The 5000 or so Woolen and Cotton Mills The 22000 -
Why Distinguish Between Statistics and Mathematical Statistics – the Case of Swedish Academia
Why distinguish between statistics and mathematical statistics { the case of Swedish academia Peter Guttorp1 and Georg Lindgren2 1Department of Statistics, University of Washington, Seattle 2Mathematical Statistics, Lund University, Lund 2017/10/11 Abstract A separation between the academic subjects statistics and mathematical statistics has existed in Sweden almost as long as there have been statistics professors. The same distinction has not been maintained in other countries. Why has it been kept so for long in Sweden, and what consequences may it have had? In May 2015 it was 100 years since Mathematical Statistics was formally estab- lished as an academic discipline at a Swedish university where Statistics had existed since the turn of the century. We give an account of the debate in Lund and elsewhere about this division dur- ing the first decades after 1900 and present two of its leading personalities. The Lund University astronomer (and mathematical statistician) C.V.L. Charlier was a lead- ing proponent for a position in mathematical statistics at the university. Charlier's adversary in the debate was Pontus Fahlbeck, professor in political science and statis- tics, who reserved the word statistics for \statistics as a social science". Charlier not only secured the first academic position in Sweden in mathematical statistics for his former Ph.D. student Sven Wicksell, but he also demonstrated that a mathematical statistician can be influential in matters of state, finance, as well as in different nat- ural sciences. Fahlbeck saw mathematical statistics as a set of tools that sometimes could be useful in his brand of statistics. After a summary of the organisational, educational, and scientific growth of the statistical sciences in Sweden that has taken place during the last 50 years, we discuss what effects the Charlier-Fahlbeck divergence might have had on this development. -
Globalisation and Internationalisation of Education: Is on Right Direction?
The Asian Conference on Education 2013 Official Conference Proceedings Osaka, Japan Globalisation and Internationalisation of Education: Is on Right Direction? Ershad Ali*1, Malcolm Abbott*2 *1Auckland Institute of Studies, New Zealand, *2Swinburne University, Australia 0287 The Asian Conference on Education 2013 Official Conference Proceedings 2013 Abstract One aspect of the process of globalisation in recent years has been the increase in the number of students travelling abroad to complete their education. Although a number of university campuses around the world have seen significant numbers of overseas students since the 1950s, in recent years the numbers have climbed to far higher levels. In 2006 it was estimated by the OECD that there were nearly three million tertiary education students studying aboard and that this number could reach five million by the year 2020. This globalisation of education has meant that increasingly those countries whose higher education institutions are most dependent on overseas students are becoming exposed to risks historically associated with engagement in international trade. Indeed in a number of countries there are universities that have become very dependent upon attracting overseas students to maintain their funding levels. The purpose of this study is to review this process of the globalisation of higher education and the associated risks faced by higher education institutions when they attempt to attract students from other countries. Finally a direction of movement of these two industries has been examined. The study found that although the rate of globalisation of education is much faster than it was expected, the risks faced by institutions are also increasing. -
Week 5 the Hosiery Industry
Week 5 Dr Frances Richardson [email protected]. uk The hosiery industry http://open.conted.ox.ac.uk/series/ manufactures-industrial-revolution Outline • The handknitting industry • The framework knitting industry: - Early development - Growth – a family affair - The worst aspects of proto-industrial exploitation - Industrialization in the 1870-80s - Continuation of outwork Genesis of the hand- knitting industry • Nether hose originally made of bias-cut cloth and attached to upper hose • Henry VIII given a pair of fine Spanish knitted silk stockings • Silk stockings become more popular in Elizabeth I’s reign • Fine worsted stockings copied from Italy • By early 17th century, woollen or worsted stocking knitting industry found in Wales, West Country, northern England, Northamptonshire and Nottinghamshire • Poor children taught knitting in early 17th-century Norwich • Hand-knitting declined in 17th century in framework-knitting and new draperies areas Original documents Hand-knitting • J. Evans, Letters written during a Tour through North Wales (1804) • W. Davies, General View of the Agriculture and Domestic Economy of North Wales (1810) • W. Davies, General View of the Agriculture and Domestic Economy of South Wales (1815) • H. Evans, The Gorse Glen (first published 1931) • Municipal Corporations Report 1837-8 Framework knitting • Luddite letters • 1845 Report on Condition of framework knitters – industry output and capacity • W. G. Hoskins, The Midland Peasant (1957) Stocking knitting in Wales - What was the organisation of