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Exploring Hakai

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Exploring Hakai EXPLORING »A search for the road less travelled 16 • March 2004 • www.pacificyachting.com Top left: Pruth Bay is by far the most popular anchor- age in Hakai, with an awesome view east down Kwakshua Channel. Top right: This tiny cove off Sans Peur Passage had a view out to the main channel, where the occasional boat went by. Bottom left: In the Serpent Group we found an almost tropical setting, with a large white sand midden-shell beach that was perfect for paddling. Bottom right: We tiptoed through the constriction in HAKAI Spitfire Channel, which has a least charted depth BY JENNIFER & JAMES HAMILTON of 1.9 m and is perhaps eight metres wide. www.pacificyachting.com • March 2004 • 17 he Hakai Luxvbalis Conservancy Area is situated off the mainland coast just north of Vancouver Island. At 123,000 hectares it is the largest of British Columbia’s numerous marine parks and comprises literally hundreds of islands and islets. This is the B.C. coast in all its glory, with something for everyone: mountains, Trapids, wildlife, lagoons, lazy coves, ocean swells, windswept shores, white-sand beaches, and islet-strewn waterways to explore. Due to its size, remoteness, and lack of central coast. We planned to spend a major the north tip of Calvert Island. The waters facilities for visitors, boaters who make the part of our three-week trip in the Hakai were calm and still, lit golden by the morn- journey north to Hakai will be rewarded by Luxvbalis Conservancy Area (see sidebar). ing sun in a cloudless sky. We basked in the an endless choice of outstanding anchorages A popular destination for kayakers, Hakai warm rays and our good fortune. Kwakshua within a pristine and secluded wilderness. seems virtually unknown to the average Channel ends at Pruth Bay, which for cruiser. We went for days without seeing Top right: With a 360° view from the radio NORTH TO HAKAI We crave solitude and another pleasure craft, let alone sharing an tower above Pruth Bay, we could see clear love to explore new territory. Desolation anchorage. But our first stop in the park was across the park to its Northern extreme. Sound is much too busy for us, and even the quite the opposite. Right inset: In Cultus Sound, we anchored North Island felt a little crowded. The next From Fish Egg Inlet on the mainland between a rare pair of reversing waterfalls. logical step was to continue north, across coast, we crossed Fitz Hugh Sound and Below: A marvelous driftwood dock connect- Queen Charlotte Sound, and into B.C.’s entered the park via Kwakshua Channel at ed the resort at Sandspit Point to their float. BOATERS WHO make the journey north to CHOICE OF OUTSTANDING ANCHORAGES WITHIN a 18 • March 2004 • www.pacificyachting.com CONSERVANCY AREA The Hakai Luxvbalis Conservancy Area was formed in 1986 as the Hakai Recreation Area. It was given a new name and status in late 2003 following a unique joint-manage- ment agreement between B.C. Parks and the Heiltsuk First Nation. While seemingly a pris- tine wilderness, the Heiltsuk have lived here for thousands of years. The new designation is to protect their traditional shellfish gather- ing and cultural sites. Visitors are asked to use holding tanks while in the park, to restrict their land-based activities to trails and beaches, and to not remove any cultural artifacts. decades has been a popular haven for small- craft bound to and from Alaska. There were already a dozen vessels at anchor and twice that number by late afternoon. We instead enjoy it—the resident insects were very ADAMS HARBOUR We travelled north to anchored our 40' powerboat Dirona in an hungry. Pruth Bay has an even more popular Hakai Passage the next morning and then empty, unnamed bay just east of Keith attraction: West Beach. An easy walk west turned southwest to test the waters. It was Anchorage, and were joined by only one from the head of the bay led to a magnifi- our first real exposure to ocean swell, which other vessel. We immediately set off on the cent white-sand beach with an endless were running about 2-3 metres, as our pas- moderate 3.2-km hike to the radio tower view across the Pacific Ocean. It reminded sage across Queen Charlotte Sound had which sits 488 metres above Keith Anchor- us of Hawaii—ignoring the huge piles of been almost disappointingly calm. I was age. On that clear day, the 360° view from driftwood blown in by winter storms—with initially somewhat alarmed to see those the summit was amazing. Fortunately, we gentle surf and talcum-soft sand that was big waves coming towards us, but Dirona brought bug repellent and could stay to almost too hot for bare feet. took them easily, and I soon relaxed. Our HAKAI WILL BE REWARDED BY AN ENDLESS pristine and secluded wilderness. www.pacificyachting.com • March 2004 • 19 LOCATION MAP . CLOSE-UP MAP Sans Peur Passage Kinsman Inlet Cultus Sound McNaughton Group Spitfire Channel Hurricane Island Kildidt Narrows Goose Group Kildidt Sound FITZ HUGH SOUND QUEENS Spider Anchorage SOUND Hunter Island Fulton Pass Nalau Passage Edward Channel Triquet Island HAKAI Stirling Island PASSAGE Serpent Group Fish Egg Inlet Adams Harbour Rivers Inlet West Beach Kwakshua Channel Pruth Bay QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND Keith Anchorage Calvert Island IF YOU GO Although much of the park is not covered in detail in guidebooks, there are several excellent references that touch on the area, notably Iain Lawrence’s Far-Away Places Note: Green areas is Hakai Luxubalis Conservation Area. (1995), the annual Waggoner Cruising Guide, and the Douglass’ Exploring the experience in more exposed waters during tucked into the trees at Sandspit Point. A North Coast of British Columbia (2002). this trip gave us the confidence to travel up marvellous driftwood dock connected the William Kelly’s “Campbell Island to Calvert Island” (PY May, 2001) was helpful, and Vancouver Island’s west coast the following resort to their float. Farther south, a group Edith Iglauer’s Fishing with John mentions year, something we would not have consid- of kayakers had set-up camp. The islands some anchorages. Between 2000 and ered previously. While most of the region opposite our anchorage were excellent 2002, CHS issued three new charts (3935- is protected, Hakai is a good place to gain dinghy territory—the terrain was rugged 3937) and updated the Sailing Directions open-ocean experience in small doses. and inhospitable, but very dramatic. The for the region. Our 1991 Sailing Directions Turning back, we motored to Adams weather had gouged striking accordion folds was so full of corrections that anyone travel- Harbour and tried to moor just east of Flat into the rocky shores, while the swells on ling here is well-advised to obtain these Island, but the anchor consistently dragged the west side were even more exciting in a newer publications. The Coast Recreation through the soft sand. We instead tucked small dinghy. Maps (www.coastalwatersrec.com) for Bella into a small bight on the eastern shore. This Bella and Hakai Passage were handy as both was a perfect spot, with not another soul SERPENT GROUP When we awoke the next take-along dinghy charts and in locating points of interest. in sight. Humanity was nearby though. A morning, Dirona was rocking gently in swell private resort, invisible from the water, was that reached in from Hakai Passage. This 20 • March 2004 • www.pacificyachting.com There’s one thing that could really damage your boat. Water. Water. The source of life. Unfortunately for unprotected fiberglass hulls, water can be the root of all evil. Unprotected fiberglass can absorb water – and this can lead to blisters and long term hull damage. Just as shingles on a roof stop water from entering your home, Interprotect protects against blistering by literally separating your hull from water through a physical barrier formed by millions of microscopic platelets – we call them Micro-plates®. So, with the right protection, water is back to being what it's supposed to be for you and your boat – fun! Stop the Water Visit our website for more information: yachtpaint.com Interlux Yacht Finishes, Technical Service Help Line: 1–800–468–7589 Akzo Nobel Logo, ® ,Interlux®, Interprotect® and Micro-plates® are registered trademarks of Akzo Nobel SPERRY TOP-SIDER SHOES available at the following locations: R e d S k y a t N i g h t G r a n v i l l e I s l a n d Nikka Fishing & Marine S t e v e s t o n ANCHORAGE NOTES (see charts 3935-3937) K e r r i s d a l e B o o t e r y On the outer shores of the Serpent Group, surf crashed against the shore, while Adams Harbour: Anchor north of Sandspit stunted trees struggled to grow, bent over Point in 5 to 10 m in the bight formed by V a n c o u v e r severely by the wind. the south shore of a 38 m high islet, with a line ashore. F r e e d m a n s S h o e s waterway, exposed to the ocean, has a Serpent Group: Anchor in 5 to 10 m south- reputation for fierce weather. Although the west of the 31 m high islet, with room to S o u t h G r a n v i l l e weather was calm, the swell was fairly active swing, in the one-boat cove formed by the when we later crossed.
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