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Putting Western Pennsylvania Cheese on the Map: Cheese Trails and the Promotion of Artisan Cheese Maureen Gullen a Thesis Submit

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Putting Western Pennsylvania Cheese on the Map: Cheese Trails and the Promotion of Artisan Cheese Maureen Gullen a Thesis Submit Putting Western Pennsylvania Cheese on the Map: Cheese Trails and the Promotion of Artisan Cheese Maureen Gullen A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in Food Studies at Chatham University August 2015 Acknowledgements Many thanks to everyone who made this thesis possible. Specifically, Nadine Lehrer for helping me get my thoughts in order and on the paper, Taylor for helping me get through the challenge of graduate school and thesis work, and my fellow Food Studies students who made the past two years so enjoyable. 2 Table of Contents Acknowledgements ....................................................................................................................... 1 Introduction ................................................................................................................................... 4 Literature Review/Background ................................................................................................... 7 The Evolution of American Cheesemaking ................................................................................ 7 The “Second Wave” of American Artisan Cheese ..................................................................... 9 Creating American Terroirs ...................................................................................................... 12 Putting Artisan Cheesemakers on the Map ............................................................................... 16 Methods ........................................................................................................................................ 20 Cheese Trails: Websites and Brochures .................................................................................... 21 Cheese Trail Websites........................................................................................................... 22 Cheese Trail Brochures ......................................................................................................... 22 Stakeholder Interviews.............................................................................................................. 24 Analysis and Discussion .............................................................................................................. 25 Issues Facing the Western PA Cheese Industry ........................................................................ 26 Cheesemaker Profiles................................................................................................................ 30 On the Brochure/Map ........................................................................................................... 30 On the Web ........................................................................................................................... 31 Cheesemaker Values ................................................................................................................. 34 Family and Tradition............................................................................................................. 34 Animal Husbandry ................................................................................................................ 38 Landscape ............................................................................................................................. 40 On the Cheese Trail .................................................................................................................. 42 The Cheese Trail as Tour Guide ........................................................................................... 42 Creating a Rural Destination ................................................................................................. 44 Cheese Trail Events .............................................................................................................. 47 Recommendations for a Western Pennsylvania Cheese Trail .................................................. 51 Conclusion ................................................................................................................................... 59 Bibliography ................................................................................................................................ 61 Appendices ................................................................................................................................... 67 Appendix 1: Cheese Trail Websites .......................................................................................... 67 3 Appendix 2: Cheese Trail Maps and Brochures ....................................................................... 67 Appendix 3: Interview Guides .................................................................................................. 96 Appendix 4 profiles................................................................................................................... 96 Appendix 5: Western PA Map Prototype ............................................................................... 101 Appendix 6: Resources for Preparing Farms for Open Houses .............................................. 102 Appendix 7: Grants to Consider ............................................................................................. 103 Introduction American artisan cheese is becoming increasingly prevalent across the country. Not only is producing cheese a way for small dairy farms and artisans to stay financially solvent, it is also an expression of the cheesemaker’s creativity, as well as the culture, environment, and history of the surrounding area. California, Wisconsin, and Vermont dominate the artisan cheese scene by sheer number of producers, as well as by acclaim. However, the popularity of local food has also called attention to locally made cheeses from other parts of the United States. Although popular, these cheeses are not always easy to find, especially in cities. They are rarely available in larger groceries stores. Rather they are more often found at farmers’ markets, co-ops, specialty food stores, or Whole Foods Market, retail locations where only a small portion of Americans shop for their food. So, while many consumers are increasingly concerned with where their food comes from, few of them actually come into contact with artisan cheeses. For those who do, the cheese is typically disconnected from the cheesemaker or farmer (except at farmers’ markets). Thus consumers lack any sort of accompanying knowledge of where and how the cheeses were made, knowledge which often functions as one of the major selling points of artisan cheeses. One way to bridge this disconnect and help urban consumers learn about and decide to purchase artisan cheese, is through the creation of a cheese trail, a map that can guide visitors to 4 locations where they can see, learn about, and purchase locally-made cheeses. This thesis proposes the creation of a cheese trail for Western Pennsylvania. While Western Pennsylvania has a strong dairying history, the large majority of dairies in the region have become highly industrialized. Nevertheless, the region has recently been experiencing a resurgence of small- scale dairy farmers and artisan cheesemakers. In Western Pennsylvania there are 51 licensed Figure 1. Green dots represent artisan cheesemakers in Western dairy plants, with 27 of those dairies plants PA. Red dots illustrate the greater clustering of cheesemakers in Central and Southeastern PA. (Source: Author) producing cheese. Of these licensed plants, 8 can be defined as artisan or farmstead producers. In the rest of the state, there are over 65 artisan and farmstead cheesemakers. Thus, compared to Central and Eastern Pennsylvania, Western PA has significantly fewer artisan cheesemakers (Fig. 1). As this resurgence is still in its beginning stages, there is therefore as of yet little infrastructure in place to support it. While Western PA cheese is available in multiple small locations, such as restaurants, small food stores, and farmers’ markets throughout Pittsburgh, there is no one-stop source of information for Western PA cheeses. A cheese trail could help collect information on where to find different Western PA cheeses, making it more accessible to consumers, broadening their general knowledge of Western PA cheeses, and increasing the cheeses’ visibility in the market. Thus, a Western Pennsylvania cheese trail, modeled after existing trails, is explored here as tool to bring greater awareness to the region’s cheeses and to help this artisan cheese industry grow. 5 This thesis brings together an analysis of cheese trails from other locales with feedback from local PA stakeholders to suggest that a cheese trail might be used to increase consumer awareness of Western PA cheeses. In other words, cheese trails are explored as a tool to help sustain the growth of the artisan cheese industry and address some of the challenges facing cheesemakers. In looking at a cheese trail’s ability to solve some of the problems facing Western PA artisan cheesemakers, this thesis asks more specifically: • How do cheese trails play into the history and current issues facing the growing artisan cheese industry? • What do other cheese trails do that Western PA should emulate or avoid? • What do Western PA cheese stakeholders think should be included in a Western PA cheese trail? The goal of this thesis is to suggest that a cheese trail can increase consumer awareness of Western PA artisan cheese, and to put together a roadmap for creating
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