Vasilevsky Island and The Antikvariat na Bronnoi Index Petrograd side, (), 136 200–201 Antiques and collectibles

See also Accommodations and Addresses, finding, 295 Moscow, 136 GENERAL INDEX Restaurant indexes, below. Admiralty (Admiralteistvo; St. Petersburg, 252 St. Petersburg), 228 Apartment rentals, 295–296 Admiralty (St. Petersburg), 181 Moscow, 76 Aeroexpress train (Moscow), 284 St. Petersburg, 203 General Index Agate Pavilion (Tsarskoye Apraksin Dvor (St. Petersburg), A Tselo), 274 251, 254 AirAmbulanceCard.com, 301 Apshu (Moscow), 153 Abim Plus (St. Petersburg), 252 Air Force Museum, Russian Arbat district (Moscow), 41, Above and Beyond Tours, (Moscow), 112–113 48–49 303–304 Air travel, 289 accommodations, 67–68 Academic trips, 39 Moscow, 282–284 restaurants, 89–91 Access-Able Travel Source, 301 St. Petersburg, 289–290 shopping, 134 Accessible Journeys, 301 staying comfortable in Arbatskaya Lavitsa Accommodations, 39, 294–296. long-haul flights, 283 (Moscow), 140 See also Accommodations Akhmatova, Anna, 28 Archangel Gabriel, Church of the Index Museum (St. Petersburg), (Moscow), 128 Moscow and environs, 55–76 238–239 Architecture, 23–25 near the airport, 73–74 Aktsia (Moscow), 136 best, 7–8 alternative Akunin, Boris, 28 "Seven Sisters" (Moscow), 24 accommodations, Alexander Gardens Shchusev Museum of 75–76 (Alexandrovsky Sad; Moscow), Architecture (Moscow), 24 Arbat, 67–68 48, 107 Arctic and Antarctic, Museum of best, 3, 6, 55–57 Alexander I, Czar, 20 (St. Petersburg), 233–234 currency exchange, 74 Alexander II, Czar, 16–17, 20, 182, Area codes, 301, 311 family-friendly, 60 230, 244 Aristocratic estates, Moscow, foreigner tax, 62 Alexander III, Czar, 20 117–118 around The Kremlin and Alexander Nevsky Monastery Arkhangelskoye, 167–168 , 57–61 and Cemetery (Lavra Armed Forces, Museum of outside the Aleksandra Nevskogo; St. (Moscow), 112 Road, 70–73 Petersburg), 228–230 Armed Forces Day (Defenders of Peredelkino, 171 Alexandra, Empress, 19 the Motherland Day), 35 Petrovka and The Alexandra Nevskogo Bridge The Armory Museum Ukrainian Quarter, (St. Petersburg), 292 (Moscow), 102 63–66 Alexandrinsky Theater (St. Aromatny Mir (Moscow), 142 prices, 55, 75 Petersburg), 258–259 Art galleries prostitution, 64 All-Russian Exhibition Center Moscow, 136–137 reservations, 75 (formerly VDNKh; Moscow), Central House of Artists south of Moscow River, 117, 121 (Tsentralny Dom 68–70 Alphabet, Russian, 315–316 Khudozhnika), 115 Suzdal and Vladimir, 166 Amber House (Yantarny Dom; St. Petersburg, 252–253 Tverskaya Street and St. Petersburg), 252 Art Garbage (Moscow), 152 environs, 61–63 Amber Room (Tsarskoye Tselo), Art Modus (St. Petersburg), 252 St. Petersburg and environs, 273–274 Art MUSEON (Moscow), 110, 112 187–204 American Foundation for the Art museums near the airport, 201–202 Blind (AFB), 301 Moscow best, 187–189 American Medical Center Art MUSEON, 110, 112 family-friendly, 193 Moscow, 301 Museum of Private around the Hermitage American Medical Clinic and Collections, 114 Museum and Palace Hospital (St. Petersburg), 311 New Tretyakov Gallery/ Square, 189–193 Ananov (St. Petersburg), 255 Museum of Modern landing the best Andrei Rublev (film), 109 Art (Novaya room, 196 Andropov, Yuri, 21 Tretyakovka), 115 Lower Nevsky to Smolny Anglia British Bookshop Patriarch's Palace and Cathedral,COPYRIGHTED 196–198 MATERIAL (St. Petersburg), 253 Cathedral of the mini-hotels, 188 Angliiskaya Naberezhnya Twelve Apostles, 102 practical information, (English Embankment; St. Pushkin Museum of Fine 202–204 Petersburg), 258 Arts (Muzei prices, 187, 202–203 Angliisky Podvorye (English Izobratitelnykh South of Nevsky, Courtyard; Moscow), 125, 148 Isskustv imeni 198–200 Anna Akhmatova Museum Pushkina), 114 Upper Nevsky Prospekt, (St. Petersburg), 238–239 193–195

325

222_9781118167151-bindex.indd2_9781118167151-bindex.indd 325325 112/13/112/13/11 12:5612:56 PMPM Art museums (cont.) Blagoveshchenksy (formerly Canada Shchusev Museum of Leytenanta Shmidta) Bridge embassy, 302 Architecture, 24 (St. Petersburg), 292 passports, 308 Tretyakov Gallery Blockade Museums (St. St. Petersburg consulate, 311 (Tretyakovskaya Petersburg), 232–233 visas, 297 Galereya), 49, 114 Blue Chinese Room (Tsarskoye Canal cruises, St. Petersburg, 186 Museum of History and Art Tselo), 274 The Capital Shipping Company (Sergiev Posad), 162 Blue Drawing Room (Tsarskoye (Moscow), 121 St. Petersburg and environs Tselo), 274 Capital Tours (Moscow), 120 Pushkinskaya 10, Boar House (Moscow), 154 Car rentals, 289, 294 234–235 Boating (boat rentals), Cartier (Moscow), 140 Russian Museum (Russky Moscow, 121 Car travel, 289

GENERAL INDEX Muzei), 182, 234–235 Boat tours and cruises, 38–39 Moscow, 285 The State Hermitage Kronshtadt, 277 St. Petersburg, 291 Museum, 223, 226–227 Moscow, 121 Cathedral of Dmitry Art Nouveau (Style Moderne), 22 Peterhof, 269–270 (Vladimir), 165 Arts and Crafts movement, 22 St. Petersburg, 241, Cathedral of Our Lady of Arts Bureau (Khudozhestvennoye 290–291, 294 Smolensk (Moscow), 107 Buro; Moscow), 136 Bolshoi Okhtinsky Bridge Cathedral of the Annunciation ATMs (automated-teller (St. Petersburg), 292 (Moscow), 100 machines), 305 Bolshoi Theater (Moscow), Cathedral of the Archangel Atrium in front of Kursky Train 144, 149 Michael (Moscow), 100 Station (Moscow), 136 Books, recommended, 25–29 Cathedral of the Assumption Australia Bookstores Moscow, 101 embassy, 302 Moscow, 137 Sergiev Posad, 161 passports, 308 St. Petersburg, 253 Vladimir, 162, 164 visas, 297 Boris Godunov, 14, 20, 161–162 Cathedral of the Trinity (Sergiev Jazz Festival Botanical Gardens (Botanichesky Posad), 161 (St. Petersburg), 262 Sad; Moscow), 117 Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles Avante-Garde movement, 22 Botkin City Hospital (Moscow), 102 Avis Rent a Car, 301 (Moscow), 303 Cathedrals, monasteries and Avrora, Cruiser (St. Petersburg), The Boulevard Ring (Moscow), convents. See also Churches 237–238 41, 43 Moscow and environs, Azbuka Vkusa (Moscow), 138 Bowling 107–109 Moscow, 156 Cathedral of Dmitry St. Petersburg, 267 (Vladimir), 165 B Bowling Park (St. Cathedral of Our Lady of Babushka (St. Petersburg), 255 Petersburg), 267 Smolensk, 107 Ballad of a Soldier (film), 27 Brezhnev, Leonid, 18, 21 Cathedral of the Ballet, 29 Bronze Horseman (Medny Annunciation, 100 Banyas (baths), Moscow, 123 Vsadnik; St. Petersburg), Cathedral of the Baranka (St. Petersburg), 266 180, 237 Archangel Michael, 100 Bars B-2 (Moscow), 152 Cathedral of the Moscow, 154–155 Buddhist Temple (Budisky Assumption, 101 St. Petersburg, 265–266 Khram; St. Petersburg), 230 Cathedral of the Baza (Moscow), 155 Budget Travel, 39 Assumption BB King (Moscow), 153 Bulgakov, Mikhail, 28, 117 (Vladimir), 162 Beaches, Moscow, 116 Burnt by the Sun (film), 27 Cathedral of the Trinity Bee-Line, 304 Business lunches, 219 (Sergiev Posad), 161 Beers, 33 Bus tours, Moscow, 54 Cathedral of the Twelve Belazh (St. Petersburg), 252 Bus travel, 289 Apostles, 102 Belochka (St. Petersburg), 254 Arkhangelskoye, 167 Cathedrals of Kitai- Bi-Ba-Bo (Moscow), 156 Moscow, 284, 288 Gorod, 51 Biblio-Globus (Moscow), 137 St. Petersburg, 290, 294 Christ the Savior Biking, 37 Sergiev Posad, 160 Cathedral (Khram St. Petersburg, 241 Suzdal and Vladimir, 164 Khrista Spasitelya), Billiard Cafe-Club Island of Butter Week (Maslenitsa), 35, 37 52, 107 Crimea (Moscow), 155–156 Bvlgari (Moscow), 140 Euthimiev Monastery- Billiards Fortress (Suzdal), 165 Moscow, 155–156 & St. Petersburg, 267 C Cemetery (Novodevichy Birzhevoy Bridge (St. Cabs Monastyr i Kladbishche), Petersburg), 292 Moscow, 284, 288 107–109 Bitsevsky Park (Moscow), St. Petersburg, 290, 293 Pokrovsky Convent 121, 122 CafeMax (Moscow), 303 (Suzdal), 165 Calendar of events, 35–36

326

222_9781118167151-bindex.indd2_9781118167151-bindex.indd 326326 112/13/112/13/11 12:5612:56 PMPM Rizopolozhensky Chaliapin House Museum Nikolsky Old Believers' Monastery (Moscow), 148 Commune (Nikolskoye (Suzdal), 165 Changing of the guard, Staroobryadtsoye

St. Basil's Cathedral Moscow, 103 Kladbishche), 108 GENERAL INDEX (Khram Vasiliya Chapel Over the Well (Sergiev St. George's Church, 126 Blazhennogo or Posad), 161 visiting, 109 Pokrovsky Sobor), 24, Chaplin Club (St. Petersburg), 265 Church of St. Theodore 46, 103, 106, 125 Che (Moscow), 151 Stratilites (Moscow), 128 Spaso-Andronnikov Chechnya, 12–13, 310–311 Church of the Archangel Gabriel Monastery, 109 Chekhov, Anton, 27–29, 150 (Moscow), 128 Trinity Monastery of St. Chekhov House Museum Church of the Archangel Michael Sergius (Troitse- (Moscow), 119 (Arkhangelskoye), 168 Sergiyevo Lavra; Chernenko, Konstantin, 21 Church of the Deposition of the Sergiev Posad), 160 Cherry Orchard Arts Festival Robe (Moscow), 100–101 St. Petersburg, 228–232 (Moscow), 144 Church of the Savior on the St. Petersburg and environs Chesma Cathedral and Spilled Blood (Tserkov Chesma Cathedral and Monastery (St. Spasitelya Na Krovi; St. Monastery, 230 Petersburg), 230 Petersburg), 182, 244 Kazan Cathedral Children, families with, 302 Church of the Transfiguration (Kazansky Sobor), Moscow (Peredelkino), 170 230–231, 243–244 accommodations, 60 Cinemas, Moscow, 156–157 Naval Cathedral restaurants, 86 Circus (Kronshtadt), 278 shopping, 138, 142 Moscow, 119–120 Peter and Paul sights and attractions, St. Petersburg, 240 Cathedral, 229 119–120 City Children's Hospital no. 1 St. Isaac's Cathedral St. Petersburg (St. Petersburg), 312 (Isaakevsky Sobor), accommodations, 193 City Hospital No. 1 180, 231 attractions, 240 (Moscow), 303 Smolny Cathedral and restaurants, 212 City Realty, 296 Convent (Smolny shopping, 254, 256 Classical music, 29 Sobor), 232, 262 China and porcelain Moscow, 148–149 Cathedrals of Kitai-Gorod Moscow, 137 St. Petersburg, 259, 262 (Moscow), 51 St. Petersburg, 253 Clean Ponds (Chistiye Prudy; Cathedral Square (Sobornaya Chinese Pilot Jao Da Moscow), 43 Ploshchad; Moscow), 100 (Moscow), 153 Cleansing Day, 37 Catherine I, Catherine's Palace Chistiye Prudy (Clean Ponds; Climate, 33, 35 (Yekaterinsky Dvorets), Moscow), 43, 128 Clothing 272–273 Chocolate, St. Petersburg, Moscow, 138, 139 Catherine II (the Great), 15, 20, 253–254 size conversions, 287 102, 108, 118, 165, 167, 180, Choir Anteroom (Tsarskoye St. Petersburg, 254 207, 236, 237, 259, 273 Tselo), 274 Coat check, 115 Catherine's Palace (Yekaterinsky Christmas, Russian Orthodox, 35 Columned Hall (Kolonny Zal; Dvorets; Tsarskoye Tselo), Christ the Savior Cathedral Moscow), 148 272–273 (Khram Khrista Spasitelya; Conservatory (Moscow), 154 Cellphones, 304, 312 Moscow), 52, 107 Constitution Day, 36 Cemeteries Churches. See also Cathedrals, Constructivists, 23 Novodevichy Convent & monasteries and convents Corner Drawing Room Cemetery (Novodevichy Church of the Savior on the (Pavlovsk), 275 Monastyr i Kladbishche; Spilled Blood (Tserkov Cosmic (Moscow), 156 Moscow), 107–109 Spasitelya Na Krovi), 182, Cosmos Tours, 39 Peredelkino, 170–171 230, 244 Crafts, Moscow, 137 Piskarevo Park and Memorial Moscow and environs Crafts festival, Suzdal, 165 Cemetery (Prospekt Church of St. Theodore The Cranes Fly (film), 27 Nepokorionnikh; St. Stratilites, 128 Credit cards, 305–306 Petersburg), 238 Church of the Archangel Cross-country skiing Center for , 39 Gabriel, 128 Moscow, 122 Centers for Disease Control and Church of the Archangel St. Petersburg, 242 Prevention, 299 Michael Crown jewels, Moscow, 102 Central Bus Terminal (Tsentralny (Arkhangelskoye), 168 Crown of Monomakh (Shapka Avtovokzal; Moscow), 284 Church of the Deposition Monomakha; Moscow), 100 Central House of Artists of the Robe, 100 Cruiser Avrora (St. Petersburg), (Tsentralny Dom Khudozhnika; Church of the 237–238 Moscow), 115, 136–137 Transfiguration CSKA Sports Complex Central Library (Vyborg), 280 (Peredelkino), 170 (Moscow), 124 Central Moscow Tourist Club, 122 Gate Church of the Currency and currency exchange, Central Station (Moscow), 155 Intercession, 107 305, 306 Customs regulations, 130–131, 298–299

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222_9781118167151-bindex.indd2_9781118167151-bindex.indd 327327 112/13/112/13/11 12:5612:56 PMPM Cynic (Tsynik; St. Petersburg), 265 around Palace Square Electronics, Moscow, 141 Cyril and Methodius Monument and The Hermitage, Eliseyevsky Gastronom (Moscow), 126 206–207 (Moscow), 134, 138 Czar Bell (Moscow), 102 Pavlovsk, 277 Elizabeth I, 20 Czar Cannon (Moscow), 102 Peterhof, 271 Embassies and consulates, 302 practical information, Emergencies 219–220 Moscow, 302 D price categories, 206 St. Petersburg, 311 Dagestan, 13 Square of the Arts up to Emerging Horizons, 301 Dance clubs and discos Summer Gardens, Engineering Museum (St. Moscow, 151–152 212–213 Petersburg), 182, 244 St. Petersburg, 263–264 tea traditions, 207 English Courtyard (Angliisky Dance performances GENERAL INDEX Tsarskoye Tselo, 275 Podvorye; Moscow), 125, 148 Moscow, 144–145, 148 Upper Nevsky Prospekt, Entertainment and nightlife St. Petersburg, 258–259 207–211 Moscow, 143–157 Davranov Travel (St. Petersburg), Vasilevsky Island and The all-night establishments, 240–241, 269, 272, 277 Petrograd side, 217–219 145 Day of Reconciliation and Vyborg, 281 bars, 154–155 Accord, 36 Dining Room (Pavlovsk), 275 billiards, 155–156 Defenders of the Motherland Disabled travelers, 301 bowling, 156 Day (Armed Forces Day), 35 Discount shopping cinemas, 156–157 Detsky Mir (Moscow), 138 Moscow, 137–138 classical music, 148–149 DHL, 131, 304 St. Petersburg, 254 dance, 144–145, 148 The DLT (St. Petersburg), 254 dance clubs and discos, (Moscow), 102 Doctors 151–152 Dietary red flags, 299 Moscow, 301 folk and alternative Dining. See also Restaurants St. Petersburg, 311 music, 153 Index Bar (Moscow), 154 gay and lesbian, 155 Moscow and environs, 77–97 Dome Cinema (Moscow), 157 jazz and blues, 153 after-theater Dom Knigi (House of Books) nightclubs and restaurants, 150 Moscow, 137 cabaret, 153 Arbat, 89–91 St. Petersburg, 244, 253 opera, 149–150 Arkhangelskoye, 168 Dom Kultury im. Gorbunova performing arts, 143–150 best, 6–7, 77–78 (Gorbunov House of Culture; rock and pop, 152 Children of the Sun Moscow), 152 theater, 150 (Peredelkino), 172 Domodedovo Airport tickets, 144 by cuisine, 95–97 (Moscow), 284 St. Petersburg, 257–267 family-friendly, 86 Dostoyevsky, Fyodor, 16, 26 Escorted general-interest around The Kremlin & Dostoyevsky House Museum tours, 38 Red Square, 78–82 (St. Petersburg), 239 Escorted Russian Tours, 38 outside the Garden Ring, Dowager Empress Rooms Euromed (St. Petersburg), 311 92–94 (Pavlovsk), 276 Europcar (St. Petersburg), 294 Petrovka and the Downhill skiing, Moscow, 122 European Medical Center Ukrainian Quarter, Drinking laws, 302 (Moscow), 301 87–89 Dudayev, Dzhokhar, 12 Euthimiev Monastery-Fortress practical information, Dumas, Alexandre, 207 (Suzdal), 165 94–95 DVK (St. Petersburg), 253 EXile (newspaper), 143 reservations, 82 Dvortsovaya Ploshchad (Palace Export permits, 298 Sergiev Posad, 162 Square; St. Petersburg) 173, Extreme weather exposure, 300 south of Moscow River, 178, 243 91–92 restaurants around, 206–207 sushi, 85 sights and attractions around, F Suzdal and Vladimir, 227–228 Fabrique (Moscow), 151 166–167 Dvortsovy Bridge (St. False Dmitry, 14–15 Tverskaya and environs, Petersburg), 292 Families with children, 302 83–87 Moscow vegetarian food, 79 accommodations, 60 St. Petersburg and environs, E restaurants, 86 205–221 Easter, Orthodox, 36 shopping, 138, 142 after-theater, 263 Easter Arts Festival (Moscow), sights and attractions, best, 205–206 36, 144 119–120 buffets, 216 Eastern Tours, 39 St. Petersburg by cuisine, 220–221 East-West (film), 27 accommodations, 193 family-friendly, 212 Eating and drinking, 30–33 attractions, 240 Kronshtadt, 278 Eclectica (St. Petersburg), 241 restaurants, 212 Lower Nevsky Prospekt ElderTreks, 309 shopping, 254, 256 up to Smolny Electricity, 302 Family Travel Forum, 302 Cathedral, 213–214

328

222_9781118167151-bindex.indd2_9781118167151-bindex.indd 328328 112/13/112/13/11 12:5612:56 PMPM Family Travel Network, 302 Gorbachev, Mikhail, 18–19, 21, 30 The Museum of the Fashion (clothing) Gorbunov House of Culture Romanov Boyars, 126 Moscow, 138, 139 (Dom Kultury im. Gorbunova; Museum of Wooden

size conversions, 287 Moscow), 152 Architecture and GENERAL INDEX St. Petersburg, 254 Gorbushka (Moscow), 141 Peasant Life Fasol (Moscow), 151 Gorky Park (Park Kultury i (Suzdal), 165 FedEx, 304 Otdkykha Imeni M. Gorkovo; National Historical Festivals and special events, Moscow), 52, 115–116 Museum (Nationalny 35–36 ice skating, 122 Istorichesky Figure skating Gostiny Dvor (St. Petersburg), Muzei), 106 Moscow, 123–124 246, 251, 254 Revolution Museum St. Petersburg, 242 Gostiny Dvor Shopping Arcade (State Museum of Filigree, St. Petersburg, 256 (St. Petersburg), 184 Contemporary Russian Films, 26–27 Gothic bridge History), 110 Finlyandsky Bridge (Arkhangelskoye), 168 Russian Air Force (St. Petersburg), 292 Grand Cascade (Peterhof), 270 Museum, 112–113 Fishfabrique (St. The St. Petersburg and environs Petersburg), 265 (Moscow), 102 Blockade Museums, Fishing Grand Palace (St. Petersburg), 251 232–233 Moscow, 121 Grand Palace at Pavlovsk (Veliky Kronshtadt Museum of St. Petersburg, 241 Dvorets), 275–276 Naval History, 278 Floor monitors, 295 Great Hall (Tsarskoye Tselo), 274 History of , 10–21 Flying Wheels Travel, 301 Great Palace (Peterhof), 270 Hockey Flying with Disability, 301 Green Channel, 298 Moscow, 124 Folk and alternative music Green Dining Room (Tsarskoye St. Petersburg, 242 Moscow, 153 Tselo), 274 Holiday Care, 301 St. Petersburg, 265 Gregorian calendar, 22 Holy Gates (Arkhangelskoye), 168 Fontanka River (St. Greshniki (Sinners; St. Homestays, 295–296 Petersburg), 184 Petersburg), 266 St. Petersburg, 204 Food stores and markets Griboedov (St. Petersburg), Hospital no. 20 (St. Moscow, 138 263–264 Petersburg), 312 St. Petersburg, 251, 254–255 GUM (Moscow), 135, 138 Hospitals Foreigner tax, 62 Gyms Moscow, 303 Foreign Ministry (Moscow), 24 Moscow, 121 St. Petersburg, 312 Forgiveness Day, 37 St. Petersburg, 241 Host Families Association, Frigate Tours, 272, 277 76, 296 Furs, Moscow, 138 Hotel Leningradskaya H (Moscow), 24 Hare's Island (Zaichy Ostrov; St. Hotels, 39, 294–296. See also G Petersburg), 229 Accommodations Index Gagarin, Yuri, 106 Health concerns, 299–300 Moscow and environs, 55–76 first manned flight (1961), 113 jet lag, 285 near the airport, 73–74 The Gagarin Monument long-haul flights, 283 alternative (Moscow), 109 Helikon Opera (Moscow), 149 accommodations, Gallery D-137 (St. Help (Moscow), 154 75–76 Petersburg), 252 The Hermitage Museum Arbat, 67–68 Garden Ring Road (Moscow), 41 (St. Petersburg), 180, best, 3, 6, 55–57 accommodations outside of, 223, 226–227 currency exchange, 74 70–73 restaurants around, 206–207 family-friendly, 60 restaurants outside of, 92–94 Hermitage Museum Store foreigner tax, 62 Gate Church of the Intercession (St. Petersburg), 253 around The Kremlin and (Moscow), 107 Hermitage Theater (St. Red Square, 57–61 Gay.com Travel, 304 Petersburg), 259 outside the Garden Ring Gays and lesbians, 303 Hertz/Travel Rent (St. Road, 70–73 Moscow, 155 Petersburg), 294 Peredelkino, 171 St. Petersburg, 266–267 Hiking, Moscow, 121–122 Petrovka and The GayTraveler, 304 History museums Ukrainian Quarter, Gazgolder (Moscow), 151 Moscow and environs 63–66 General Staff Building The Armory prices, 55, 75 (Generalny Shtab; St. Museum, 102 prostitution, 64 Petersburg), 227–228 Monument to Victims of reservations, 75 Gifts and souvenirs Soviet Repressions, 128 south of Moscow River, Moscow, 139–140 Museum of Armed 68–70 St. Petersburg, 255 Forces, 112 Suzdal and Vladimir, 166 Gogol, Nikolai, 26–27, 95 Museum of Cosmonautics Tverskaya Street and statues of (Moscow), 43 (Muzei Kosmonavtiki), environs, 61–63 Golden Gates (Vladimir), 164 112

329

222_9781118167151-bindex.indd2_9781118167151-bindex.indd 329329 112/13/112/13/11 12:5612:56 PMPM Hotels (cont.) Ireland Khrushchev, Nikita, 18, 21, 106 St. Petersburg and environs, embassy, 302 Kids, 302 187–204 passports, 308 Moscow near the airport, 201–202 visas, 297 accommodations, 60 best, 187–189 Itineraries, suggested restaurants, 86 family-friendly, 193 Moscow, 46–54 shopping, 138, 142 around the Hermitage in 1 day, 46–49 sights and attractions, Museum and Palace in 2 days, 49–51 119–120 Square, 189–193 in 3 days, 51–54 St. Petersburg landing the best St. Petersburg, 178–186 accommodations, 193 room, 196 in 1 day, 178–181 attractions, 240 Lower Nevsky to Smolny in 2 days, 181–184 restaurants, 212

GENERAL INDEX Cathedral, 196–198 in 3 days, 184–186 shopping, 254, 256 mini-hotels, 188 Ivan III (The Great), 13–14, 20 Kievan Rus, 12–13 practical information, Ivan IV (The Terrible), 14, 20, Kievskaya station (Moscow), 110 202–204 23, 30 Kitai-Gorod (Moscow), 41, 125 prices, 187, 202–203 Ivan the Great Bell Tower Kolomenskoye (Moscow), 118 South of Nevsky, (Moscow), 100 Kolomenskoye (Peredelkino), 171 198–200 Izmailovsky Hotel Complex Kolonny Zal (Columned Hall; Upper Nevsky Prospekt, (Moscow), 71–72 Moscow), 148 193–195 Izmailovsky Market (Moscow), Konservatoria (Moscow Vasilevsky Island and The 137–138 Conservatory), 149 Petrograd side, Izmailovsky Park (Moscow), Kontsertny Zal Im. 200–201 116–117, 122 Tchaikovskogo (Tchaikovsky Hotels in Russia, 75, 203 shopping, 134 Concert Hall; Moscow), 149 Hotel Ukraina (Moscow), 24 Konyushenny Dvor (St. Petersburg), 264 J Kotelnicheskaya apartment I Jazz and blues building (Moscow), 24 IAMAT (International Association Moscow, 153 Krasnaya Ploshchad (Red for Medical Assistance to St. Petersburg, 264–265 Square), 46 Travelers), 299 Jazz Philharmonic Hall (St. accommodations, 57–61 Iceberg (St. Petersburg), 255 Petersburg), 264–265 restaurants around, 78–82 Ice Palace (Ledovy Dvorets; Jet lag, 285 sights and attractions around, St. Petersburg), 242 Jewelry 103–107 Ice skating, Moscow, 122 Moscow, 140 Krasnaya Presnya Tower Ice skating, St. Petersburg, 241 St. Petersburg, 255 (Moscow), 24 Iconostasis, 23 JFC (St. Petersburg), 265 The Kremlin Icons, 21–22, 131 Jimi Hendrix Blues Club Moscow, 41, 46 St. Petersburg, 255 (St. Petersburg), 265 accommodations, 57–61 Igor Chapurin Boutique Jogging restaurants around, (Moscow), 139 Moscow, 122 78–82 Ikra Club (Moscow), 152 St. Petersburg, 241–242 sights and attractions, Independence Day, Russian, 36 Julian calendar, 22, 108 99–103 In-line skating, Moscow, 122 JVL (Moscow), 153 Suzdal, 165 International Association for Krestovsky Island (Krestovsky Medical Assistance to Ostrov; St. Petersburg), 236 Travelers (IAMAT), 299 K Kamennoostrovsky Palace Krestovsky Ostrov (St. International Film Center Petersburg), 38 (Moscow), 156 (St. Petersburg), 236 Kamenny Island (Kamenny Kronshtadt, 277–278 International Gay and Lesbian Kronshtadt Museum of Naval Travel Association Ostrov; St. Petersburg), 236 Karma Bar (Moscow), 151 History, 278 (IGLTA), 303 Kukolny Teatr (Obrazstov Puppet International House of Music Katarina (St. Petersburg), 255 Kazan Cathedral (Kazansky Theater; Moscow), 120 (Mezhdunarodny Dom Muzyki; Kunstkamera (St. Moscow), 148 Sobor; St. Petersburg), 230–231 Petersburg), 233 International SOS Clinic estate (Moscow), (Moscow), 301 Kazan Cathedral (St. Petersburg), 243–244 117–118 International Women's Day, 35 Kutafya Tower (Moscow), 103 Internet and Wi-Fi, 303, 312 Khlisty sect, 19, 108 InTouch USA, 304 Khram Khrista Spasitelya (Christ Intourist the Savior Cathedral; L Moscow, 286 Moscow), 52, 107 Labor Day/Spring Festival, 36 Moscow tours, 120–121 Khram Vasiliya Blazhennogo (St. Lacquer boxes, 250 Sergiev Posad, 159 Basil's Cathedral), 24, 46, 103, Ladoga Station (St. Suzdal and Vladimir, 164 106, 125 Petersburg), 290

330

222_9781118167151-bindex.indd2_9781118167151-bindex.indd 330330 112/13/112/13/11 12:5612:56 PMPM Laika, 113 landing the best Metro (subway) Language, 303 room, 196 Moscow, 110, 286–288 Language classes, 39 Lower Nevsky to Smolny St. Petersburg, 292–293

Lavra Aleksandra Nevskogo Cathedral, 196–198 Metro Museum (Moscow), 110 GENERAL INDEX (Alexander Nevsky Monastery mini-hotels, 188 Mezhdunarodny Dom Muzyki and Cemetery; St. Petersburg), practical information, (International House of Music; 228–230 202–204 Moscow), 148 Lavrushinsky Lane (Moscow), 49 prices, 187, 202–203 Mikhail I, 20 Le Club (Moscow), 153 South of Nevsky, Mikhail Lermontov House Legal aid, 303 198–200 Museum (Moscow), 119 Lenin, Vladimir, 17, 21, 30 Upper Nevsky Prospekt, Mikhailovsky Castle & Gardens Mausoleum (Mavzolei Lenina; 193–195 (Mikhailovsky Zamok; St. Moscow), 106 Vasilevsky Island and The Petersburg), 182, 244–245 Leningrad During the Great Petrograd side, Mikhail Romanov, 15 Patriotic War (St. Petersburg), 200–201 Military convalescent home 232–233 Lomonosov Porcelain Factory (Arkhangelskoye), 168 The Lenin monument (Moscow), (St. Petersburg), 253 Minayev, Sergei, 28 109–110 Losiny Ostrov (Moscow), 38, Mini-hotels, 296 Lenta (St. Petersburg), 254 121–122 St. Petersburg, 188, 203 Lermontov, Mikhail, 27, 118 Lower Nevsky Prospekt Mir space station, 113 House Museum (Moscow), 119 (St. Petersburg), MKhAT imeni Chekhova (Moscow Letny Sad (Summer Gardens; restaurants, 213–214 Art Theater; Moscow), 29, 150 St. Petersburg), 235 Lubyanka (Moscow), 51, 128 Mobile phones, 304, 312 Linens, Moscow, 140 Luzhniki Sports Complex Mobility-Advisor.com, 301 Liteiny Bridge (St. (Moscow), 124 Modern Art, Museum of (New Petersburg), 292 Tretyakov Gallery; Literary Moscow, 118–119 Moscow), 115 Literature, 25–29 M Modest Charm of the Little Vera (film), 27 Mail, 304, 312 Bourgeoisie (Skromnoye Liverpool (St. Petersburg), 264 Maltevsky Rynok Oboyaniye Burzhuazi; Lodging, 39, 294–296. See also (St. Petersburg), 251 Moscow), 151 Accommodations Index Maly Theater (Moscow), 150 Moika (St. Petersburg), 180 Moscow and environs, 55–76 Maly Theater (Mussorgsky Moiseyev Ballet (Moscow), 145 near the airport, 73–74 Theater; St. Petersburg), M-111 (St. Petersburg), 267 alternative 259, 262–263 Money and costs, 305–306 accommodations, Marble Bridge (Tsarskoye Money Honey (St. 75–76 Tselo), 274 Petersburg), 264 Arbat, 67–68 Mariinsky Hospital Monopol (St. Petersburg), 256 best, 3, 6, 55–57 (St. Petersburg), 312 Monorail, Moscow, 288 currency exchange, 74 Mariinsky Theater (formerly Monplaisir (Peterhof), 270 family-friendly, 60 Kirov Theater; St. Petersburg), Monrepos Park (Vyborg), 280 foreigner tax, 62 184, 259 Monument to Victims of Soviet around The Kremlin and Mariinsky Theater Repressions (Moscow), 128 Red Square, 57–61 (St. Petersburg), 262 Morozovskaya Children's outside the Garden Ring Market Square (Rynochnaya Hospital (Moscow), 303 Road, 70–73 Ploshchad; Vyborg), 280 Moscow Apartments, 76 Peredelkino, 171 Marly Palace (Peterhof), 270 Moscow Art Theater (MKhAT Petrovka and The Maslenitsa (Butter Week), 35, 37 imeni Chekhova; Moscow), Ukrainian Quarter, Matryoshka nesting dolls, 135 29, 150 63–66 Mayakovskaya station Moscow Circus Named after prices, 55, 75 (Moscow), 110 Y. Nikulin (Tsentralny Tsirk), prostitution, 64 Mayakovsky, Vladimir, 28 119–120 reservations, 75 May Day, 36 Moscow Conservatory south of Moscow River, MedicAlert identification (Konservatoria), 149 68–70 tag, 300 Moscow Cultural Fund, 137 Suzdal and Vladimir, 166 MedjetAssist, 300 Moscow Doesn't Believe in Tears Tverskaya Street and Medny Vsadnik (Bronze (film), 27 environs, 61–63 Horseman; St. Petersburg), Moscow International Film St. Petersburg and environs, 180, 237 Festival, 156 187–204 Medvedev, Dmitry, 21 , 286–288 near the airport, 201–202 Melnikov, Konstantin, 25 Moscow Operetta Theater, 145 best, 187–189 Memorial Museum of the Moscow River family-friendly, 193 Leningrad Siege boat tours, 121 around the Hermitage (St. Petersburg), 232 south of Museum and Palace Metro (dance club; accommodations, 68–70 Square, 189–193 St. Petersburg), 264 restaurants, 91–92

331

222_9781118167151-bindex.indd2_9781118167151-bindex.indd 331331 112/13/112/13/11 12:5612:56 PMPM , 24 Naval Cathedral Nonsmoking sections in Moscow Taxi, 284 (Kronshtadt), 278 restaurants, 220 The Moscow Times, 143, 286 Naval History, Kronshtadt North of Nevsky Moscow Zoo (Zoopark), 120 Museum of (Kronshtadt), 278 (St. Petersburg), 174 Moskovsky (Moscow) Station Neighborhoods Nostalgia (film), 27 (St. Petersburg), 290 Moscow, 40–46 Novaya Opera (New Opera; (Moscow), 137 St.Petersburg, 173–178 Moscow), 149 MossRehab, 301 Nevskiye Berega Novaya Ploshchad (Moscow), Movies, Moscow, 156–157 (St. Petersburg), 254 cafes along, 126 MTS, 304 Nevsky 106 (St. Petersburg), 264 Novi, Alevisio, 100 Multicultural travelers, 306–307 Nevsky Prospekt (St. Novodevichy Convent & Museum of Arctic and Antarctic Petersburg), 173, 181 Cemetery (Novodevichy

GENERAL INDEX (Muzei Arktiki I Antarktiki; New Holland (Novaya Monastyr i Kladbishche; St. Petersburg), 233–234 Gollandiya; St. Moscow), 52, 107–109 Museum of Armed Forces Petersburg), 174 Novokuznetskaya station (Moscow), 112 New Moscow Circus (Moscow), 110 Museum of Cosmonautics (Muzei (Novy Tsirk), 120 Novoslobodskaya station Kosmonavtiki; Moscow), 112 New Opera (Novaya Opera; (Moscow), 110 Museum of GULAG History Moscow), 149 Novy Tsirk (New Moscow (Muzei Istorii GULAG; Newspapers and magazines, Circus), 120 Moscow), 112 307, 312 Now, Voyager, 304 Museum of History and Art New Tretyakov Gallery/Museum (Sergiev Posad), 162 of Modern Art (Novaya Museum of Musical Instruments Tretyakovka; Moscow), 115 O (St. Petersburg), 234 New Year's Day, 35 Obrazstov Puppet Theater Museum of Private Collections New Year's Eve, 34 (Kukolny Teatr; Moscow), 120 (Moscow), 114 New Year's Festival (St. Okhotny Ryad (Moscow), The Museum of the Romanov Petersburg), 262 135, 138 Boyars (Moscow), 126 New Zealand, passports, 308 Okhotny Ryad shopping center Museum of Wooden Architecture Nicholas I, Czar, 16, 20 (Moscow), 48 and Peasant Life (Suzdal), 165 Nicholas II, Czar, 17, 19, 20–21 Old Believers, 108 Museums. See also Art museums; Nightclubs and cabaret "Old" New Year, 35 History museums; Science and Moscow, 153–154 Old Vyborg district, 280 technology museums St. Petersburg, 265 Olimpiisky Sports Complex best, 8 Nightlife and entertainment (Moscow), 124 Moscow, 114–115 Moscow, 143–157 Olimpiisky Stadium Suzdal, 165–166 all-night (Moscow), 124 Musical Instruments, Museum of establishments, 145 Olivia, 304 (St. Petersburg), 234 bars, 154–155 Opera, 29 Music stores billiards, 155–156 Moscow, 149–150 Moscow, 141 bowling, 156 St. Petersburg, 262–263 St. Petersburg, 255–256 cinemas, 156–157 Orthodox Easter, 36 Mussorgsky Theater (Maly classical music, 148–149 Ostankino mansion Theater; St. Petersburg), 259, dance, 144–145, 148 (Moscow), 118 262–263 dance clubs and discos, Ostrovsky Square (Ploshchad Muzei Istorii GULAG (Museum of 151–152 Ostrovskogo; St. Petersburg), GULAG History; Moscow; folk and alternative 184, 237 Moscow), 112 music, 153 Out & About (magazine), 304 Muzei Izobratitelnykh Isskustv gay and lesbian, 155 Outdoor activities imeni Pushkina (Pushkin jazz and blues, 153 Moscow, 121–123 Museum of Fine Arts; nightclubs and St. Petersburg, 241–242 Moscow), 114 cabaret, 153 Muzei Kosmonavtiki (Museum of opera, 149–150 P Cosmonautics; Moscow), 112 performing arts, 143–150 Package tours, 39 rock and pop, 152 Packing tips, 307–308 theater, 150 Palace of Soviets (Moscow), 24 N tickets, 144 Nabokov, Vladimir, 28 Palace Square (Dvortsovaya St. Petersburg, 257–267 Ploshchad; St. Petersburg), Nabokov Museum (St. Nightwatch (film), 27 Petersburg), 239–240 173, 178, 243 Nikolayevsky Palace restaurants around, 206–207 Napoleon, 15–16 (St. Petersburg), 259 National Historical Museum sights and attractions around, Nikolsky Old Believers' 227–228 (Nationalny Istorichesky Commune (Nikolskoye Muzei; Moscow), 106 Panda and Kartathena Staroobryadtsoye Kladbishche; (St. Petersburg), 267 Nationalny Istorichesky Muzei Moscow), 108 (National Historical Museum; Nikon, Patriarch, 108 Moscow), 106

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222_9781118167151-bindex.indd2_9781118167151-bindex.indd 332332 112/13/112/13/11 12:5612:56 PMPM Panteleimonovsky Petrovsky Stadium Prokhodimets Beerhouse (St. Petersburg), 252 (St. Petersburg), (St. Petersburg), 266 Paragliding, St. Petersburg, 242 242–243 Propaganda (Moscow),

Park Pobedy (Victory Park) Pharmacies 151–152, 155 GENERAL INDEX Moscow, 116 Moscow, 308 Propaganda posters, 23 in-line skating, 122 St. Petersburg, 312 Prostitution, 64 St. Petersburg), 235–236 Pink Taxi (Moscow), 284 Pryalka (St. Petersburg), 254 Parks and gardens Piskarevo Park and Memorial Pulkovo-1 Airport (St. Moscow and environs, 115–117 Cemetery (Prospekt Petersburg), 289, 290 Alexander Gardens Nepokorionnikh; St. Pulkovo-2 Airport (St. (Alexandrovsky Petersburg), 238 Petersburg), 289 Sad), 107 Pivnaya Bochka (St. Puppet theaters, Moscow, Arkhangelskoye, 168 Petersburg), 266 119, 120 St. Petersburg, 235–236 Planeta Fitness (Moscow), 121 Pushkin (town). See Tsarskoye Summer Palace & Planeta Fitness (St. Tselo Gardens (Letny Petersburg), 241 Pushkin, Alexander, 16, 26, Dvorets, Letny Sad), Planning your trip, 282–314 237, 272 182, 235 accommodations, 294–296 Pushkin Apartment Museum Passage (St. Petersburg), 251 getting around (Moscow), 119 Passport (magazine), 143 Moscow, 286–289 Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts Passports, 308 Russia, 288–289 (Muzei Izobratitelnykh Isskustv Pasternak House Museum St. Petersburg, 291–294 imeni Pushkina; Moscow), (Peredelkino), 170 getting there 52, 114 Patriarch's Palace (Moscow), 102 Moscow, 282–286 Pushkinskaya 10 (St. Patriarch's Ponds (Patriarshiye St. Petersburg, 289–291 Petersburg), 234, 253 Prudy; Moscow), 117 health concerns, 299–300 Pushkin Square (Pushkinskaya Patriarshy Dom Tours, 120, 159, money and costs, 305–306 Ploshchad; Moscow), 43, 51 164, 169–170 multicultural travelers, Putin, Vladimir, 10–11, 13, 21 Paul I, Czar, 275 306–307 Pyatnitskaya Street (Moscow), Paul's Library (Pavlovsk), 275 newspapers and shopping, 134 Pavlovsk, 275–277 magazines, 307 Pyramid (Tsarskoye Tselo), 274 Pechatnaya (St. Petersburg), 253 passports, 308 Pelevin, Viktor, 28 safety, 308 Peredelkino, 168–172 senior travel, 308–309 R Perekhod (underground student travel, 309 Radisson Hotel Ukraina walkway), 293 Suzdal and Vladimir, 163–164 (Moscow), 24 Performing arts, 29 taxes, 309 Rasputin, Grigory, 19, 108 Moscow, 143–150 telephone, 309–310 The Real McCoy (Moscow), 154 St. Petersburg, 257–263 terrorism concerns, 310–311 Red Army CSKA Sports Complex Peter and Paul Cathedral (St. time zones, 310 (Moscow), 124 Petersburg), 229 tipping, 310 Red Channel, 298 visas and customs, 297–299 Red Fox Jazz Club (St. (Petropavlovskaya Krepost; Ploshchad Isskustv (Square of Petersburg), 265 St. Petersburg), 181, 229 the Arts; St. Petersburg), 174, Red Square (Krasnaya Peterburgsky Sport Complex 182, 237 Ploshchad; Moscow), 46 (St. Petersburg), 243 restaurants, 212–213 accommodations, 57–61 Peterhof (Petrodvorets), 186, Ploshchad Ostrovskogo restaurants around, 78–82 258, 268–271 (Ostrovsky Square; St. sights and attractions around, Peterhof (Petrodvorets) Palace Petersburg), 237 103–107 and Park, 270–271 Ploshchad Revolutsii station Red Staircase (Moscow), 100 Peter I (The Great), 15, 20, 22, (Moscow), 110 Reed, John, 28, 106 24, 162, 233 Podmoskovye, 160 Repentance (film), 27 Monument (Moscow), 52, 54 Pokrovsky Convent (Suzdal), 165 Reservations Petersburg Taxi (St. Pokrovsky Sobor (St. Basil's Moscow Petersburg), 293 Cathedral; Moscow), 24, 46, accommodations, 75 The Petrograd Side 103, 106, 125 restaurants, 82 (St. Petersburg), 174 Police, 308, 312 St. Petersburg The Petrograd side Police Relay Race (Moscow), 119 accommodations, 203 (St. Petersburg), The Polytechnical Museum Respiratory illnesses, 299 restaurants, 217–219 (Moscow), 126 Responsible travel, 36–38 Petropavlovskaya Krepost (Peter Prescription medications, 300 Restaurants. See also and Paul Fortress; St. Prisoner of the Caucasus Restaurants Index Petersburg), 181, 229 (film), 27 Moscow and environs, 77–97 Petrovich (Moscow), 154 Private Collections, Museum of after-theater Petrovka district (Moscow), 41 (Moscow), 114 restaurants, 150 accommodations, 63–66 Project OGI (Moscow), 153 Arbat, 89–91 restaurants, 87–89

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222_9781118167151-bindex.indd2_9781118167151-bindex.indd 333333 112/13/112/13/11 12:5612:56 PMPM Restaurants (cont.) Rolf- (St. Petersburg), 294 St. Petersburg Zoo, 240 Arkhangelskoye, 168 Rosie O'Grady's (Moscow), 154 St. Theodore Stratilites, Church best, 6–7, 77–78 Rossi's (St. Petersburg), 264 of (Moscow), 128 Children of the Sun Rossi Street (Ulitsa Zodchego Salons, St. Petersburg, 313 (Peredelkino), 172 Rossi; St. Petersburg), 237 Samolyot (Moscow), 156 by cuisine, 95–97 Rublev, Andrei, 22, 100, 109, 161 Samotsvety (Moscow), 140 family-friendly, 86 Rurik, 20 Samson Fountain around The Kremlin & Russia Info-Center, 39 (Peterhof), 270 Red Square, 78–82 Russia Journal, 143 Sandunovskiye Banyi outside the Garden Ring, Russiana, 39 (Moscow), 123 92–94 Russian Air Force Museum Sapsan (St. Petersburg), 267 Petrovka and the (Moscow), 112–113 SATH (Society for Accessible

GENERAL INDEX Ukrainian Quarter, Russian Cruises, 240, 270 Travel & Hospitality), 301 87–89 Russian Gateway, 38 Scandinavia (St. Petersburg), 311 practical information, Russian Icon (St. Petersburg), Science and technology 94–95 255 museums reservations, 82 Russian Independence Day, 36 Kunstkamera (St. Sergiev Posad, 162 Russian Museum (Russky Muzei; Petersburg), 233 south of Moscow River, St. Petersburg), 182, 234–235 Museum of Cosmonautics 91–92 The Russian Museum (St. (Muzei Kosmonavtiki; sushi, 85 Petersburg), 245 Moscow), 112 Suzdal and Vladimir, Russian Orthodox Christmas, 35 The Polytechnical Museum 166–167 Russian Orthodox Church, 108 (Moscow), 126 Tverskaya and environs, Russian Revolution, 16–17 Seasons, 33, 35 83–87 Russian Tours, 39 Sedmoi Kontinent (Moscow), 138 vegetarian food, 79 Russian Travel Service, 76, 296 Seleznyovskiye Banyi St. Petersburg and environs, Russian Winter Festival (Moscow), 123 205–221 (Moscow), 144 Senior travel, 308–309 after-theater, 263 Russkaya Piramida (Moscow), Serebryanny Bor (Silvery Islet; best, 205–206 156 Moscow), 116 buffets, 216 Russkaya Starina (St. Petersburg), Serfs, 16–17 by cuisine, 220–221 252 Sergiev Posad, 158–162 family-friendly, 212 Russkaya Vyshyvka Seven Sisters (Moscow), 24 Kronshtadt, 278 (Moscow), 140 Seventeen Instants of Spring Lower Nevsky Prospekt Rynochnaya Ploshchad (Market (film), 27 up to Smolny Square; Vyborg), 280 Severnaya Lira (St. Petersburg), Cathedral, 213–214 255 around Palace Square Shakespeare and Co. and The Hermitage, S (Moscow), 137 206–207 Safety, 308 Shamrock Bar (St. Pavlovsk, 277 St. Basil's Cathedral (Khram Petersburg), 266 Peterhof, 271 Vasiliya Blazhennogo or Shapka Monomakha (Crown of practical information, Pokrovsky Sobor; Moscow), Monomakh; Moscow), 100 219–220 24, 46, 103, 106, 125 Sharm (Moscow), 155 price categories, 206 St. George's Church Shchusev Museum of Square of the Arts up to (Moscow), 126 Architecture (Moscow), 24 Summer Gardens, St. Isaac's Cathedral (Isaakevsky Shelter Pub and Whisky Bar 212–213 Sobor; St. Petersburg), (St. Petersburg), 266 tea traditions, 207 180, 231 Sheremetevo-1 Airport Tsarskoye Tselo, 275 St. Petersburg (Moscow), 284 Upper Nevsky Prospekt, outdoor pursuits, 241–242 Sheremetevo-2 Airport 207–211 spectator sports, 242–243 (Moscow), 283 Vasilevsky Island and The World War II siege, 223 Shoes, Moscow, 138 Petrograd side, 217–219 St. Petersburg Chamber Shopping Vyborg, 281 Opera, 263 best gifts to bring home, 9 Revivalist movement, 25 St. Petersburg Circus, 240 Moscow, 130–142 Revolution Museum (State St. Petersburg City Tourist antiques and Museum of Contemporary Office, 291 collectibles, 136 Russian History; Moscow), 110 St. Petersburg Conservatory, art galleries, 136–137 Rizopolozhensky Monastery 259, 262 bookstores, 137 (Suzdal), 165 St. Petersburg History Museum, china and porcelain, 137 RoadPost, 304 232–233 crafts, 137 Road Scholar, 308–309 St. Petersburg Metro, 292–293 customs regulations, Rock and pop music St. Petersburg Mosque, 231–232 130–131 Moscow, 152 St. Petersburg Small Hotels discount shopping, St. Petersburg, 264 Association, 203 137–138 St. Petersburg Times, The, 257

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222_9781118167151-bindex.indd2_9781118167151-bindex.indd 334334 112/13/112/13/11 12:5612:56 PMPM electronics, 141 organized tours, 240–241 Stars of the White Nights fashion and shoes, around Palace Square, (St. Petersburg), 258 138, 139 227–228 State Academic Kapella

food, 138 parks and gardens, (St. Petersburg), 262 GENERAL INDEX furs, 138–139 235–236 The State Hermitage Museum gifts and souvenirs, Pavlovsk, 275–276 (St. Petersburg), 180, 223, 139–140 Vyborg, 280 226–227 great shopping areas, walking tour, 243–246 State Kremlin Palace (Moscow), 131, 134 Silvery Islet (Serebryanny Bor; 145, 148 hours, 131 Moscow), 116 Stockmann (St. Petersburg), 255 jewelry, 140 Sinners (Greshniki; St. Street food, St. Petersburg, 211 linens, 140 Petersburg), 266 Strelka (Moscow), 155 music, 141 Size conversions, 287 Strelka (St. Petersburg), 181 vodka and wines, 142 Skating. See Figure skating; Student travel, 309 St. Petersburg, 247–256 Ice-skating; In-line skating Study Russian, 39 great shopping areas, Skatprokat (St. Petersburg), 37, 241 Style Moderne (Art Nouveau), 22 250–251 Skiing Subway (metro), Moscow, 110 Shopping centers, 135–136 Moscow, 122 Summer Palace & Gardens St. Petersburg, 251–252 St. Petersburg, 242 (Letny Dvorets, Letny Sad; Shostakovich Philharmonic Skromnoye Oboyaniye Burzhuazi St. Petersburg), 174, 182, 235 (St. Petersburg), (Modest Charm of the restaurants, 212–213 245–246, 262 Bourgeoisie; Moscow), 151 Sushi, 85 Side trips Smoking, 309 Sustainable tourism, 36–38 from Moscow, 158–172 Smolny Cathedral and Convent Suzdal, 162–167 Arkhangelskoye, 167–168 (Smolny Sobor; St. Synagogue (St. Petersburg), 232 Peredelkino, 168–172 Petersburg), 232, 262 Sergiev Posad, 158–162 restaurants near, 213 Suzdal and Vladimir, Sobornaya Ploshchad (Cathedral T 162–167 Square; Moscow), 100 Tabakov Theater Studio from St. Petersburg, 268–281 Soccer (Moscow), 150 Kronshtadt, 277–278 Moscow, 124 Tarkovsky, Andrei, 27, 109 Pavlovsk, 275–277 St. Petersburg, 242–243 Tatyana Parfionova Peterhof (Petrodvorets), Sohorooms (Moscow), 152 (St. Petersburg), 254 268–271 Solaris (film), 27 Taurida Gardens (Tavrichesky Tsarskoye Tselo Solzhenitsyn, Alexander, 28 Sad; St. Petersburg), 174, 235 (Pushkin), 272–275 South of Moscow River Taxes, 309 Vyborg, 279–281 accommodations, 68–70 Taxi Blues (Moscow), 284 Sights and attractions restaurants, 91–92 Taxi Park (St. Petersburg), 293 Moscow and environs, 98–129 South of Nevsky (St. Taxis aristocratic estates, Petersburg), 174 Moscow, 284, 288 117–118 accommodations, 198–200 St. Petersburg, 290, 293 Arkhangelskoye, 167–168 Soviet Union, 17–20 Tchaikovsky, Pyotr, 16 for kids, 119–120 Space program, 113 Tchaikovsky Competition The Kremlin, 99–103 Spaso-Andronnikov Monastery (Moscow), 144 literary Moscow, 118–119 (Moscow), 109 Tchaikovsky Concert Hall major museums, 114–115 Special events and festivals, (Kontsertny Zal Im. organized tours, 120–121 Moscow, 35–36 Tchaikovskogo; Moscow), 149 Peredelkino, 170–171 Spectator sports Tea traditions, 207 Soviet sights, 109–113 Moscow, 123–124 Telephone, 309–310, 313 Suzdal, 165–166 St. Petersburg, 242–243 Temperatures, average, 35 Vladimir, 164–165 Spies, 23 Tennis tournaments walking tour of historic Sport Line Club (Moscow), 156 Moscow, 124 Moscow, 125–129 Sputnik, 113 St. Petersburg, 243 St. Petersburg and environs, Square of the Arts (Ploshchad (Moscow), 101 222–246 Isskustv; St. Petersburg), 174, Tereshkhova, Valentina, 113 cathedrals and 182, 237 Terrorism concerns, 310–311 monasteries, 228 restaurants, 212–213 Theater the Hermitage and Stalin, Josef, 17–18, 21, 30 Moscow, 150 environs, 223, 226–227 grave (Moscow), 106 St. Petersburg, 263 for kids, 240 World War II bunker, 171 Theater Square (Teatralnaya Kronshtadt, 278 Stalin Gothic style, 25 Ploshchad; Moscow), 48 literary sights, 238–240 Stanislavsky acting method, 29 Throne Room (Pavlovsk), 275 major museums, Stanislavsky Nemirovich- Time Online (Moscow), 303 232–235 Danchenko Theater (Moscow), Time zones, 310, 313 monuments, memorials 145, 149–150 Tinkoff (St. Petersburg), 266 and squares, 237–238 Tipping, 310 Toilets, 310, 313

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222_9781118167151-bindex.indd2_9781118167151-bindex.indd 335335 112/13/112/13/11 12:5612:56 PMPM Tolstaya, Tatyana, 28 Tverskaya Street and environs Vladimirsky Rynok Tolstoy, Leo, 27, 218 (Moscow), 41, 48, 51 (St. Petersburg), 251 Tolstoy House Museum accommodations, 61–63 Vnukovo (Moscow), 284 (Moscow), 118–119 restaurants, 83–87 Vodka, 30–31, 33 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier shopping, 134 how to drink, 31 (Moscow), 107 Typhoon Experimental Moscow, 142 Tours, organized, 38–39 Meteorology Research St. Petersburg, 256 Moscow, 120–121 Institute, 38 Vodka Museum (St. St. Petersburg, 240–241 Petersburg), 31 Tour Vacations To Go, 39 Vodokhod, 270 Toy Museum (Sergiev U Vodokhod (St. Petersburg), 240 Posad), 162 Ukrainian Quarter, The, Vodootvodny Canal restaurants, 87–89 GENERAL INDEX Toys (Moscow), 49 Moscow, 142 The Ukrainian Quarter Volodarskiy Bridge St. Petersburg, 256 (Moscow), 41 (St. Petersburg), 292 Train travel accommodations, 63–66 Vologodsky Len (Moscow), 140 Moscow, 285–286, 288–289 Uncle Sam's Billiard Bar and Vyborg, 279–281 Pavlovsk, 275 Cafe (Moscow), 156 Vyborg Castle, 280 St. Petersburg, 288, 290 United Kingdom Vysotka (Moscow), 156 Sergiev Posad, 160 embassy, 302 Trams passports, 308 Moscow, 288 St. Petersburg consulate, 311 W St. Petersburg, 293 seniors and persons with Walking tours Transliteration, 313 disabilities, 301 Moscow, 125–129 Transportation visas, 297 St. Petersburg, 243–246 Moscow, 286–289 United States Wanderers, 22 St. Petersburg, 291–294 embassy, 302 Water, drinking, 310, 314 Suzdal and Vladimir, 164 passports, 308 Wax Museum (Suzdal), 165 Transport Ministry (Moscow), 24 St. Petersburg consulate, 311 Way to Russia, 75, 203 Travel Health Online, 299 visas, 297 Weather, 33, 35 TravelWithYourKids.com, 302 Upper Nevsky Prospekt The Wedding (film), 27 Tretyakov Gallery (St. Petersburg) White Days (St. Petersburg), (Tretyakovskaya Galereya; accommodations, 193–195 36, 262 Moscow), 49, 114 restaurants, 207–211 White Nights (St. Petersburg), shopping, 141 UPS, 131, 304 36, 258 Tretyakovsky Proyezd White Nights Jazz (Moscow), 134 (St. Petersburg), 258 V Wines, 33 Tri El (St. Petersburg), 266–267 Valentin Yudashkin Trading Trinity Monastery of St. Sergius Moscow, 142 House (Moscow), 139 St. Petersburg, 256 (Troitse-Sergiyevo Lavra; Vasilevsky Island Sergiev Posad), 160 (St. Petersburg), (St. Petersburg), 227, 243 Triumph Palace (Moscow), 24 174, 178 Troitse-Sergiyevo Lavra (Trinity The Worker and Collective accommodations, 200–201 Farmer (Moscow), 110 Monastery of St. Sergius; restaurants, 217–219 Sergiev Posad), 160 World War I, 17 Veliky Dvorets (Grand Palace; World War II (Great Patriotic Troitskiy Bridge (St. Pavlovsk), 275–276 Petersburg), 292 War), 18 Veloprokat (Moscow), 37 Blockade Museums Trolley buses Vermel (Moscow), 153 Moscow, 288 (St. Petersburg), 232–233 Vernisazh (St. Petersburg), 255 siege of Leningrad, 223 St. Petersburg, 293 Victory Day, 36 Trotsky, Leon, 17 Stalin's bunker Victory Park (Park Pobedy) (Peredelkino), 171 Tsaritsino estate (Moscow), 118 Moscow, 116 Tsarskoye Tselo (Pushkin), Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in-line skating, 122 (Moscow), 107 272–275 St. Petersburg), 235–236 Tsentralny Avtovokzal (Central Views, best, 7 Bus Terminal; Moscow), 284 Visa invitations, 296 Y Tsentralny Tsirk (Moscow Circus Visas, 291, 297–298 Yekaterinsky Dvorets Named after Y. Nikulin; Visitor information (Catherine's Palace; Tsarskoye Moscow), 119–120 Moscow, 286 Tselo), 272–273 Tsentr Design (St. St. Petersburg, 291 Yelagin Island (Yelaginsky Petersburg), 256 Vladimir, 162–167 Ostrov; St. Petersburg), 236 Tsentr Yuvelir (Moscow), 140 Vladimir I, 20 Yelagin Palace Museum TsUM (Moscow), 135, 138 Vladimir I, Grand Prince, 14 (St. Petersburg), 236 Tsynik (Cynic; St. Vladimirsky Passage Yeltsin, Boris, 19–21 Petersburg), 265 (St. Petersburg), 251–252 Yubileiny Sports Palace Tuchkov Bridge (St. Petersburg), (St. Petersburg), 242 292

336

222_9781118167151-bindex.indd2_9781118167151-bindex.indd 336336 112/13/112/13/11 12:5612:56 PMPM Yusupov, Prince Nikolai, 168 Metropol, 48 Yusupov Palace Accommodations— Na Melnitse, 88 (Arkhangelskoye), 167–168 St. Petersburg Noah's Ark (Noyev Kovcheg), 88

and environs Okhotny Ryad Shopping RESTAURANT INDEX Center, 82 Alexander House, 198 Z 1 Red Square, 78 Ambassador Hotel, 194 Zaichy Ostrov (Hare's Island; Parizhsk, 90 Angleterre, 189, 192 St. Petersburg), 229 Pavilion, 129 Arbat Nord, 197 Zakuski, 214 Pavilion at Patriarshy, 83 Astoria, 189 Zamoskvarechye (Moscow), Pokrovsky Convent (Trapeznaya; Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg, 43, 49 Suzdal), 167 193–194 Zoo, St. Petersburg, 240 Poslednaya Kaplya, 85–86 Courtyard St. Petersburg Zoopark (Moscow Zoo), 120 Prisoner of the Caucasus, 93 Vasilievsky, 201 Ragout, 85 Dostoyevsky Hotel, 199 Rostik's KFC, 86–87 Fifth Corner (Pyaty Ugol), 199 Russkaya Skazka (Sergiev Accommodations— Grand Hotel Europe, 194 Posad), 162 Herzen House, 192 Moscow and Russky Dvorik (Sergiev IBIS St Petersburg Centre, 197 Posad), 162 environs Kristoff, 199 The Sad, 91 Akademicheskaya, 69 Marco Polo, 200 Shesh-Besh, 91–92 Akvarel, 64 Marshal, 196–197 Shinok, 93 Alpha, 71–72 Moskva, 197–198 Shokoladnitsa, 92 Ararat Park Hyatt, 57 NasHotel, 201 Sobornaya Ploshchad Arbat, 68 Nevsky Forum, 195 (Vladimir), 166 Baltschug Kempinski, 68–69 Nevsky Hotels Group, 195 Starlite Diner, 85 Belgrade, 68 The Northern Lights Hotel, Stary Gorod (Vladimir), 166 Best Western Vega Hotel, 72 192–193 Sudar, 93 Budapest, 64 Pulford Apartments, 192 Sushi Vyosla, 79 Cosmos, 72 Pulkovskaya, 201–202 Taras Bulba-Korchma, 88 Domodedovo Aerohotel, 73–74 Radisson Royal, 194–195 Tchaikovsky Concert Hall, 87 East-West Hotel, 61 Rossiya, 199–200 Traktir Kupechesky, 89 Galina's Flat, 65–66 Rus, 198 Trapeznaya (Suzdal), 166–167 Gamma-Delta, 72–73 Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge, Turandot, 83–84 Globus, 73 200–201 Golden Apple, 64–65 Uncle Vanya, 49, 92 G&R Hostels, 73 Vanil, 54, 89–90 Hilton Moscow Varvary, 83 Leningradskaya, 71 Restaurants— White Sun of the Desert, 88–89 Holiday Inn Lesnaya, 61 Moscow and Yar, 93–94 Holiday Inn Vinogradovo, 70–71 Yolki-Palki, 86, 87 Hotel National, 60 environs Marco Polo Presnja, 62 Arkhangelskoye Restaurant, 168 Metropol, 57 Baba Marta, 90 Restaurants—St. Moscow Marriott Grand Hotel, Bosco Bar, 48, 78–79 62–63 Café Posadskoye (Sergiev Petersburg and Moscow Marriott Royal Posad), 162 environs Cafe Pushkin, 51, 83 Aurora, 65 Admiralty (Admiralteistvo; Carre Blanc, 92 Novotel, 74 Tsarskoye Tselo), 275 Correa's, 94 Ozerkovskaya, 70 Backstage (Za Ctenoy), 210 Donna Clara, 84 Peking, 63 Beerstube, 216 Drova, 89 Polesye, 66 Black Cat, White Cat (Chornaya Durdin, 94 President Hotel, 69 Koshka, Bely Kot), 213 Dzhondzholi, 84 Radisson Royal Hotel BlinDonalt's, 216 Expeditsiya, 87 Moscow, 67 Cafe Slavyanka (Pavlovsk), 277 FAQCafe, 79 Radisson SAS Slavyanskaya, 67 Cafe Tsarskoye Tselo, 275 Farsi, 92–93 Ritz-Carlton, 60 Chainaya Lozhka, 211 Genatsvale, 90 Savoy, 61 Cote Jardin, 216 Gogol, 89 Sheraton Palace, 63 Demidoff, 212 Grilyazh, 91 Sovietsky Hotel, 71 Erivan, 214–215 Il Patio, 84 Sretenskaya, 65 Flying Dutchman (Letuchy Kharchevnya (Suzdal), 167 Suharevka Hotel, 73 Gollandets), 217 Kitezh, 87 Sverchkov, 66 Francesco, 213 Kovcheg (Sergiev Posad), 162 Varshava, 70 Grand Café Troitsky Most, 219 Krem, 79, 82 Villa Peredelkino, 171 Grand Hotel Europe, 246 Kremlyovsky Cafe, 82 Volga Hotel, 66 Great Column Hall (Bolshoi Mama Zoya on the Water, 52 Zolotoye Koltso, 67–68 Kolonny Zal; Pavlovsk), 277 Mayak, 91

337

222_9781118167151-bindex.indd2_9781118167151-bindex.indd 337337 112/13/112/13/11 12:5612:56 PMPM Hermitage Cafe, 207 NEP, 206–207 Sevilla Restaurant, 216 Idiot, 216 Nika (Vyborg), 281 Standart (Peterhof), 271 ...ili..., 184 Ofitserskoye Sobraniye Staraya Bashnya (Old Tower; Imperatorsky Stol, 186 (Peterhof), 271 Tsarskoye Tselo), 275 Imperatorsky Stol (Peterhof), 271 Palkin, 207, 210 Staraya Tamozhnya, 217–218 Karavan, 215 Park Giuseppe, 212, 244 Stary Gorod (Old Town; Kavkaz Bar, 214 Podvorye (Pavlovsk), 277 Kronshtadt), 278 Kilikia, 215–216 Porto Maltese, 214 Stray Dog Cellar (Podval Kruglaya Bashnya (Vyborg), 281 Restoran, 217 Brodyachy Sobaki), 182, 213 Literaturnoye Café, 180, 210–211 Russkaya Rybalka, 218 Stroganoff Steak House, 210 Lucky Shot (Udachny Vystrel), 210 Russky Kitsch, 218–219 Tinkoff, 215 Marco Polo, 218 7:40 (Sem Sorok), 219 V Teple, 211 RESTAURANT INDEX RESTAURANT

338

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6 5 :

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d d n i . x e d n i b - 1 5 1 7 6 1 8 1 1 1 8 7 9 _ 2 222_9781118167151-bindex.indd 339 222_9781118167151-bindex.indd 340 2 _ 9 7

8 NOTES 1 1 1 8 1 6 7 1 5 1 - b i n d e x . i n d d

3 4 0 112/13/11 12:56 PM 2 / 1 3 / 1 1

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NOTES 2 1

1 1 / 3 1 / 2 112/13/11 12:56 PM 1 4 3

d d n i . x e d n i b - 1 5 1 7 6 1 8 1 1 1 8 7 9 _ 2 222_9781118167151-bindex.indd 341 222_9781118167151-bindex.indd 342 2 _ 9 7

8 NOTES 1 1 1 8 1 6 7 1 5 1 - b i n d e x . i n d d

3 4 2 112/13/11 12:56 PM 2 / 1 3 / 1 1

1 2 : 5 6

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