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Issue No. 168 Friday, Septebmer 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 ORDER DELIVERY TO Pope will World YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 eyes a find fast-changing War I takes [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 high-rise church centre stage BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 future in Albania at BITEF

Page 5 Page 8 Page 10 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in , i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough Serbia EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser Hope rises for parents forgets - - - pledgeNEWS to leave state

of missing babies firmsNEWS to As a government professionals “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: working group party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. readies to In spite of promising publishing its long- to introduce page 10 professional awaited report on management to missing babies, public companies - hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro -

thousands of a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. instead of politically W parents hope to appointed June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, discover what executives – Serbia’s page 5 happened to their ruling parties have lost children. yet to deliver.

Ivana NIKOLIĆ Katarina MARKOVIĆ conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party lost my baby girl in 1998; fter the mandate of E the doctors told me she Aleksandar Obradovic, died shortly after birth,” acting director of one said Goran Filipović, who of Serbia’s largest pub- has been struggling to find lic companies, Electric Friday • June 13 2008 out“I what happened ever since. PowerA Industry, EPS, expired on Sep- Filipović is one of 6,000 parents in tember 11th, all eyes are on whom the Serbia who suspect that their newborn government will replace him with. children are still alive - and were smug- The ruling Progressive Party has THIS ISSUE OF gled out hospital for illegal adoption promising to professionalise the man- Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED abroad. agement of Serbia’s indebted public on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic companies ever since it took power in which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T Continued on page 3 Thousands of parents in Serbia believe that their children were stolen at birth. Photo by Jbhalper/Flickr 2012. However, experts doubt that the Pro- gressives and their coalition partners are ready to appoint executives from the ranks of professionals. Disputes mire election Serbia’s ruling parties are used to po- sitioning their own members at the top of public enterprises in order to control the companies and reward key mem- of Serbia’s first notaries bers for their loyalty. However, analysts argue that po- Serbia could pay dearly if the courts back claims In a written response to BIRN, the important to examine all the allega- litically elected executives, especially ministry declined to address the allega- tions,” Milan Antonijević, head of the those who serve as acting directors - by disappointed candidates that the selection tions. Lawyers Committee for Human Rights, which means they have limited author- process broke the law. If the failed candidates prove their an NGO, told BIRN. ity - cannot conduct the difficult and claims in court, another of Serbia’s judi- Serbia’s first 94 public notaries unpopular reforms that most of these Gordana ANDRIĆ highest-instance court in order to cial reforms would be deemed a failure. started work on September 1st. One public companies need. prove this,” one of the failed candi- How much this might cost in compen- of their main tasks is to notarise legal At the helm of some of the largest andidates who failed to dates told BIRN. sation is unclear. documents, but also compile legally public enterprises are people who have secure election as Serbia’s Disappointed candidates maintain the The non-elected candidates also binding deals, such as real estate been acting directors for two years first notaries have filed whole selection process was marred by warn that if their charges are proven, contracts, as well as mediating prop- already. The Progressives have been charges with the Adminis- legal breaches – from the composition of everything that the appointed notaries erty disputes and less contentious promising to appoint permanent di- trative Court, claiming the the commission that selected the candi- have done in work terms in the mean disputes. rectors to these companies since they Celection process was unfair and illegal. dates to the criteria that the commission time could be annulled. formed the government. “The process was unfair, was not used to choose the notaries, to suspi- “Regarding the scope of work that no- in accordance with the law and we cions of political influence in the process taries have started to conduct and the are ready to take this case to the of forming the Chamber of Notaries. responsibility they have, it is extremely Continued on page 2 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Hundreds evacuated Continued from page 1 , September 18th Continued from page 1 as floods hit Eastern SOUTH STREAM Serbia CONSTRUCTION STARTS IN OCTOBER At least one person has died - Disputes mire election and more than 400 people have Dušan Bajatović, director general of public company Srbijagas announced been evacuated - as heavy that everything is ready for the Hope rises floods hit the eastern towns of Serbia in brief of Serbia’s first notaries commencement of the South Stream , and Majdan- pipeline through Serbia. “Until the end pek on September 15th. The of this month, building permits will be emergency situation has been issued so the construction can start. Construction will start despite the declared in all three towns, for parents events in Bulgaria,“ Bajatović said. but the situation is worst in Kladovo, where the water has , September 18th brought down two bridges and TURKISH INVESTORS closed the access roads to the INTERESTED IN THE BANK OF of missing town. Goran Puzović, head of ČAČAK the public company Srbijavode, said that the floods in eastern Mehmet Kemal Bozay, Turkish Serbia were caused by small, ambassador to Serbia, said a number of investors from his country show local rivers and streams and interest in starting business in Serbia. babies there are no indications that the “Turkish Halk Bank is interested largest rivers, such as the Dan- in buying The Bank of Čačak,“ ube and the , could flood. Bozay announced. Over the next few months, possibly in October or November, investments and economic Gay Pride Parade hey didn’t let us tion is incomplete and erroneous cooperation between the two countries see and identify documentation given to parents by hangs in balance will be discussed in greater detail, the ambassador added. our dead girl; they hospitals. Serbian authorities are yet to didn’t let us bury “The majority of parents originally th her,” he said, adding got a healthy baby but later on were decide whether Belgrade Gay KURIR, September 18 that“ heT desperately wants to get to the told the baby had suddenly died. Pride Parade will be held this THREE SERBIAN MINISTERS truth. They were not allowed to see or bury year. Nebojša Stefanović, Serbian TO ATTEND BELGRADE PRIDE PARADE More than 12 years since the first their newborn children,” Ivanović interior minister, stated that the such cases started coming out into said. police have the strength to secure Ivan Tasovac, culture minister, Kori the open, Serbia is readying to pub- “They also never got official -pa the march, but that the decision Udovički, public administration lish a report on missing babies by the pers documenting that their baby of whether the event will take minister, and Jadranka Joksimović, end of September and propose ways had been buried. When they tried to place will depend on security minister in charge of the EU to resolve these cases, some of them acquire these documents, they were assessments. “The question is not integration process, said they decades old. told that the… papers were lost,” she Goran Filipović hopes that the state will help him and other parents find out the truth about their children. whether are we able to secure the would join the Belgrade Gay Pride Parade, scheduled for September Parents who lost their children and added. event, but how it would look like 28th. Telecommunication Minister suspect they were stolen, welcome Almost 1,000 families in the course but no action was taken. “No working group wanted to coop- pendent commission, whose mem- and whether Belgrade will be set Rasim Ljajić stated he supports the the steps that the country is now tak- of the following years filed com- The topic came into the spotlight erate with us before, so this is major bers would be chosen by parliament. on fire. We are estimating what The first 94 Serbian notaries took an oath in the Serbian parliament back in August. Photo by Beta LGBT population but decided not to ing. Along with NGOs, they say that plaints over their babies’ suspicious again after the European Court of Hu- progress,” Mirjana Novokmet, from The commission should then make would be the lowest threat to all join the parade as “that is not the after years of turning a blind eye, Ser- deaths but investigators have not man Rights ruled last year that Ser- the Belgrade Parents Group, told decisions on all the cases of missing citizens,” Stefanović told TV Prva. uch tasks were previously commissions. It did not comment on the claim this is also a matter of dispute. By effective way to protect gay rights”. bia needs to adopt a special law and solved a single case. bia had violated the rights of Zorica BIRN. babies,” Ćurčić explained. handled by courts and law- actual allegations. law, the Chamber may only be formed Other ministers either abstained resolve each of these cases. Parliament formed a special com- Jovanović by consistently failing to Novokmet gave birth by caesarean Ćurčić says also says that councils from commenting or said they have Ex-policeman yers. According to the tariff These candidates also claim that the after the first 100 notaries are appointed. “immediate obligations” on that day. mittee to discuss the parents’ claims provide her with “credible informa- section to a baby boy in Belgrade in will be formed, and they would deal skips trial to join system for notary services competition commission failed to apply The process of introducing notaries DECADES OF SEARCH in 2006. The committee made rec- tion as to what happened to her son”. 1978. Right after, she was told that he with cases coming under the statute Ukrainian rebels that the Justice Ministry has the selection criteria that the Law on No- was also followed by claims of political , September 18th ommendations to the police and the The court awarded Jovanović, was stillborn. of limitations. Sarranged, this profession could become taries had prescribed. influence. Media reports earlier this year Data provided by ASTRA, a Bel- judiciary on how to process the cases, whose son reportedly died shortly But she never received an explana- “In that case, there would be public ’S GOVERNMENT Radomir Počuča, the former a lucrative one. The tariffs for some nota- By law, the notaries should be chosen said that numerous employees of the WILL NOT FALL grade-based NGO fighting human after birth in 1983, with 10,000 euros tion about what happened and her condemnation of the guilty, and pub- ry services are 45 times more expensive on the base of their Bar and Notary Exam Justice Ministry had passed the Notary trafficking, say about 6,000 parents in in moral damages and ordered Ser- appeal to organise the burial of her lication of decisions. Also, all the in- spokesperson for the Serbian than when those same tasks were done results, the type of legal work they were Exam and would run for the posts. Serbia suspect their newborn babies bia to investigate each similar case child was refused. She asked for an formation would be sent to relevant anti-terrorist police unit, who is Bojan Pajtić, president of the “We don’t by courts. engaged in previously and the results Following the reports, Justice Minister government of Serbian province of were stolen. within a year. The court also ordered autopsy report but only received it institutions, for instance to medical being prosecuted for endanger- For example, verification of a housing they achieved in their work. Nikola Selaković, said it would be immor- Vojvodina, denied the Progressives’ The number of parents in Serbia want Belgrade to provide wronged fami- more than 20 years later, in 2002. “We chambers,” he says. ing the safety of peace group loan in court used to cost 550 dinars. For However, the commission graded can- al for people from the ministry to run for claims that provincial government reporting baby trafficking has risen lies with adequate compensation. don’t want reparations. We want truth The draft law predictions match Women in Black, has said that notaries, the price will depend on the didates on the basis of somewhat differ- notary offices. will be overthrown and stated the over the last five years, and the figure However, a year after the verdict, and investigation,“ Novokmet said. the suggestions of the working group, his office “did not fall and it will not reparations. We he has left the country and amount of the loan. It could cost about ent criteria. Besides the candidates’ Nota- Several independent sources told BIRN of 6,000 may increase, as not all par- Serbia had not established any new “Serbia has to solve this problem,“ which also proposes forming an inde- joined pro-Moscow rebels fall“. Pajtić claims that the provincial 25,000 dinars for a €30,000 loan, for ex- ry Exam results, they awarded grades for that some of the appointments were po- government is more effective that ents originally reported their suspi- want truth and mechanism to deal with the fate of she added. pendent commission. in eastern Ukraine to “fight ample. each year that the candidates had spent litically influenced nevertheless. Howev- the republic one, adding that the cions to the police. the missing babies. Berislav Vekić, a state secretary in against evil”, as he wrote on his The idea behind the introduction of no- working as legal professionals with one er, none of the sources provided names parliamentary majority in Vojvodina is About 62 per cent of the calls made “The deadline that the Strasbourg LEX SPECIALIS Ministry of Health, told Serbia’s Pub- Facebook page. He is on trial taries was to ease the work of the courts point, while 20 points was the maximum or documents proving such claims. stable. to the ASTRA hotline relate to various investigation.“ court set for Serbia to resolve the lic Broadcaster, RTS, on on September after making a statement that and help citizens complete legal tasks that candidates could get. Milan Antonijević, however, says that cases of missing babies. cases has expired, unfortunately The best way to resolve the fate of 16th that the families of missing babies th football hooligans should unite more promptly. The third criteria was the commission’s all the claims must be taken seriously and KURIR, September 18 The mystery of missing babies with no specific results - but we still the missing babies and to bring jus- would soon be offered a concrete and fight the peace campaign The institution of notaries was reintro- “general impression of the candidates, examined. FORMER SERBIAN SOLDIERS dates back to the 1970s, when it was Mirjana Novokmet, hope the verdict will be carried out,” tice to their families is by passing a solution. “So far we have two sugges- group after they marked the duced into the Serbian legal system fol- based on the documents submitted and “Notaries took some of the jobs that FIGHT IN UKRAINE reported that numerous babies had Ivanović told BIRN. lex specialis, parents’ associations ar- tions, a legislative one and forming a 15th anniversary of war crimes lowing an absence of more than 80 years. the conducted interview.” courts were in charge of, and the whole been taken from maternity hospitals the Belgrade The Ministry of Health had a meet- gue. That is why a draft law has been control body,“ Vekić said. The Kingdom of had a notary “The commission did not follow the le- state legal system stood behind it. It’s ex- Several former members of Serbia’s and sent for illegal adoption in West- ing with parents’ associations on Sep- fashioned by a couple of Belgrade After years of struggle, parents re- committed by Serb forces disbanded special operations unit, Parents Group th against Kosovo Albanians. service since 1930, but it was abolished gally prescribed criteria, while the criteria tremely important work that they now whose commander, ern Europe. The parents were told tember 16 and announced that the lawyers. main hopeful but cautious, Ćurčić Počuća was sacked from his in 1944 by the incoming Communist gov- they did apply were unfair. First, what are carry,” he told BIRN. Legija, is in jail serving 40 years for his that their children were stillborn, or associations will be working together The law would be the first of its kind said. police job after his inflamma- ernment. the criteria for ‘a good impression’?” the “All the claims, especially those re- role in the assassination of Serbia’s had died just after birth. with teams from the Health Ministry, in Europe, Danilo Ćurčić, one of the “Although the state is [acting] late, I tory comments in April. However, as the election of the first non-elected candidates wrote in the let- garding political influences, must be ex- late Prime Minister Zoran Đinđić, are Katarina Ivanović, from ASTRA, the Interior Ministry and Ministry of lawyers, told BIRN. “The core of the would say things are now going in the notaries concluded this summer, the al- ter to BIRN. amined. It would be devastating for the currently in Ukraine, fighting with pro- said what unites all the cases in ques- Justice. draft law concerns forming an inde- right direction,“ he told BIRN. legations casting shadows on the process “The criteria that rated years of work whole system if there were flaws in these Russian forces. According to police Serbian lawyers started to mount. are also questionable. The law prescribes appointments and if the state failed to experts, they are also fighting as go on strike mercenaries in Africa and Afghanistan. Non-elected candidates claim the com- that all candidates must have a minimum deal with them,” Antonijević added. “They know nothing but fighting and mission that selected the candidates con- five years of experience. This criteria was Serbia has already had a poor experi- have never been successful in any Lawyers across Serbia went tained the same people who used to sit on discriminatory towards younger candi- ence with reforming its judiciary. In 2009, th other job. The desire for war will never on strike on September 17 , the examining commission before which dates, but also to those who worked for it launched a reform of the process of se- leave them,” said Božidar Spasić, causing a standstill to the entire all notaries had to pass their notary ex- more than 20 years, as the maximal num- lecting new judges and prosecutors. former state security operative. judicial system. The lawyers ams. The Justice Ministry appointed both ber of points was 20,” the letter added. However, amid claims of unfair criteria, CITY GUIDE Available at: stated that they will not attend commissions. In its response, the ministry explained political influence and legal breaches, all th trials, investigations at police “Some of the candidates were passing that the competition commission had the non-elected prosecutors and judges INFORMER, September 18 Tourist Organisation of Belgrade stations or the prosecutor’s their exams at the same time as the com- faced a difficult task, as the criteria pre- that filed claims were restored to their SERBIA TO IMPORT Knez Mihailova 5, +381 (11) 2635 622 Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 732 office in cases where the petition for notaries was ongoing. So - you scribed by the law were “rather general”. posts. Some also filed lawsuits demand- ELECTRICITY Nikola Tesla Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 presence of an attorney is pass an exam in front of these people one It stated that the criteria were valid, ing compensation. According to Justice Belgrade Port, Karađorđeva As a result of the floods, which required by law, nor will they day and then the next day these same however, as the law allowed the commis- Minister Selaković, the total amount of severely hit Serbia in May, the country Hotel Moskva be handling other legal affairs persons decide on whether you will be sion to select candidates “at its discretion, these claims is €15 million. will have to import electricity, oil and FREE PULL OUT MAP OF BELGRDAE 20, +381 11 3642 000 appointed a notary,” the non-elected can- based on careful assessment of all the Non-elected notaries claim that if the except deadline-related ones. coal, Serbian Chamber of Commerce FREE SIM CARD Hotel Excelsior The strike came as a result of didates wrote in a letter to BIRN. evidence provided”. courts back their claims, everything that estimates. Competent institutions Kneza Miloša 5, +381 11 3231 381 APROPO “The fact that the ministry appointed The appointment of notaries has the appointed notaries have done in a warn citizens of sparing energy as TOP SIGHTSEEING LOCATIONS Bookstore and tearoom increased lump sum taxes and Cara Lazara 10 much as possible. PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP Supermarket concept store specific provisions of the Law the same people to both the examin- meanwhile just begun and new notaries meantime will have to be annulled. Višnjićeva 10, +381 11 2910 942 +381 11 2625839 ing and competition commissions was will be appointed in the months to come. “Can you imagine the scope of the GUIDED TURS THROUGH BELGRADE on Public Notaries. Lawyers are Hotel Townhouse 27 At the Belgrade Airport supposed to submit a written against the law and against the constitu- Following the appointment of first damage? If their appointments are WIDE SELECTION OF CLUBS, HOTELS, Maršala Birjuzova 56, +381 11 2022 900 tion,” they added. notaries, the 94 successful candidates proved illegal, everything they did, every Hudson news odlasci / departures proposal of a solution to the RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND Hudson news dolasci / arrivals In its response to BIRN, the ministry formed a Chamber of Notaries, which is document they verified or every contract Booking Rooms Hostel problem, while the next meeting BIRN has not verified the Kralja Petra 30, +381 63 29 39 39 Hudson news čekiranje / check in cited the Law on Notaries, which gives to select new notaries. they made, could be disputed,” one of the reports and cannot vouch for ENTERTAINMENT VALUES www.bookingrooms.rs Hudson news transit zona / transit with ministries of justice and the ministry the right to appoint both However, the non-elected candidates non-elected candidates told BIRN. their accuracy. finance on Septemer 22nd. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Belgrade Ambulance launches new Joy and emergency numbers Belgrade Due to the large number of emergency phone calls, on September 15th, Belgrade Ambulance introduced new phone numbers which citizens necessity eyes a in brief Belgrade can call to ask for help. In addition to the old number, 194, people can now contact the service on +381 11 3615 fill Belgrade high-rise 008, +381 11 3615 002, +381 11 3622 030 and +381 11 361 350. The phone numbers are temporary, but Belgrade Ambulance did not say how streets with future long they would be active for. Nikola Nikodijević, the parliamen- Traffic police tary speaker at the Belgrade assembly, introduce stricter The capital’s has explained that the changes to the controls music assembly has Master Plan will enable the construc- tion of the Belgrade Waterfront project The traffic police have stepped cancelled the ban as well as numerous other tall buildings. up checks on Belgrade’s streets, “A great number of investors have the Serbian interior ministry They are Jovan is another member of the on skyscraper been showing interest in the construc- announced on September 8th. band, a harmonica player. Apart from construction, tion of tall buildings. Belgrade cannot The police aim to check whether everywhere Dragan and Jovan, there are a guitar be a capital of several million people drivers are respecting the speed player and a singer. opening the way without having buildings higher then limits and using seat belts, both The best part of this job, they say, is 20 floors,” Nikodijević told daily 24 Sata in the front and rear seats. The from the Terazije that they make people happy. On the for the showpiece on September 15th. ministry said that 30 per cent of other hand, when winter comes, they In 2010, the former city authorities, drivers in Serbia do not fasten underground cannot play because it is too cold and Belgrade Waterfront led by the Democratic Party, included their safety belts and that 98 there are not many passers-by. in Belgrade’s Master Plan a study that per cent of passengers do not passage, all the “All in all, we are satisfied here,” Đurić project and for introduced a ban on the construction buckle up in the back seat. concludes, looking content and prepar- other investors to of skyscrapers in order to protect the way across the ing to start his performance. natural environment, preserve the City to introduce transform the city’s city’s landscape and the views over the Nikola Nikodijević, the parliamentary speaker at the Belgrade assembly. Photo by Beoinfo tougher rules for Knez Mihailova FROM AN Sava and rivers. ‘splavs’ ORCHESTRA TO THE STREET landscape. The study by local experts, in coop- built in New Belgrade’s block 42. Build- station to be moved to , and the eration with consultants from Vienna, ings or towers higher than 150 metres main bus station to be moved to New By the end of the year, Belgrade Street to the Walking down the crowded Knez Gordana ANDRIĆ Barcelona and Tokyo, stated that build- were effectively banned. Belgrade. Both changes were set out in is planning to introduce new Mihailova Street in the afternoon, ings up to 50 metres high could be con- The study did not have legal force, the Belgrade Waterfront project. legislation to tighten the Kalemegdan Park, you may also come across Dragan elgrade’s deputies adopted structed in some parts of New Belgrade, but was more of a recommendation Belgrade Waterfront envisages the regulation of permanently- Lučić, another street musician. Be- amendments to the city’s next to bigger roads and the Danube that all the city’s departments had to construction of residential and office tethered riverboats, floating making people fore hitting the streets, he used to Master Plan on September riverbank. keep in mind while issuing construc- buildings, the largest in cafés/bars (splavs) and floating play guitar in the orchestra of the Na- 18th, cancelling a study that Buildings up to 100 metres high tion permits. the Balkans, a hotel, an opera house, holiday cottages on the Sava happy with tional Broadcasting Company, RTS. prescribed height limits for could be constructed in New Belgrade Deputies this month also adopted and a 180-metre-tall skyscraper along and Danube rivers. The new But he was made redundant five Bthe construction of the new buildings and next to a highway, while buildings amendments to the Belgrade Master the Sava riverbank, stretching from rules set out a range of fees to music played years ago. in the Serbian capital. up to 150 metres high could only be Plan that allowed the central railway Brankov Most to Železnički Most. be paid by owners of rafts and “As I mostly play foreign music, I get boats, as well as new conditions euros and dollars. But sometimes I get governing how floating holiday both for pleasure dinars as well,” he says. cottages or splavs can be built “People sometimes approach and on Belgrade’s rivers. Goran and money. put five dinars into my box, saying that Vesić, the city’s manager, said is everything they have,” he says. that the new rules will also list “The fact that people who live on the Tito’s private ecological, sanitary and safety Ivana NIKOLIĆ edge give me as much as they can is a standards that will have to be big honour,” Lučić adds, smiling. fulfilled or fines will be levied. ove of music is what It is the only job that this guitarist brings me here every currently has. However, he also doesn’t Dragan Lučić played a guitar in the orchestra of the National Broadcasting Company, but was made redundant five years ago. Photo by Ivana Nikolić Parking tickets to be day,” says Dragan play on the streets during winter, ow- books opened to public sent to homes Đurić, a 64-year old ing to the weather. Over those months, Sometimes another young woman piper as he stands in you might find him in one of Belgrade’s accompanies her on the piano. Today, LICENCE TO PLAY military tomes and unique museum to be declared a piece of Belgrade’s community police Serbian“L folk costume at the entrance of many bars and cafés. however, she is alone. special editions. culture heritage of great importance, will start sending parking tickets the Knez Mihailova Street. “Sorry, I can’t stop playing now. I’ve For street musicians to play music in Belgrade, a licence from the City Adminis- Also on show at the mu- as it would allow us to access vari- directly to the home addresses of “Apart from that, to be honest, my pen- NO TIME TO STOP just come here and this is the rush tration has been a must since 2013. A licence is free, however, although it expires seum until October 12th is ous European funds,” director Neda the owners of irregularly parked st sion is around €150 euros and the mon- hour,“ she says as I approach, asking if after 90 days. It can then be renewed if the performer follows the regulations. It a series is an exhibition of Knežević told Belgrade Insight. vehicles from October 1 . Until ey I earn here means a lot to me and my Somewhere in between “Melody“ she has time to talk. allows musicians to play at specific locations for up to two hours a day. paintings by Yugoslav artists Some of the items in the museum now, parking tickets issued by the family,” he adds, revealing that he makes and Dragan, if you are still walking She looks down to her violin box that were collected by Tito, have been ruined because they have Belgrade public company Parking from five to ten extra euros a day. down the main pedestrian zone, head- where some 300 dinars sit in small Before they got a licence, street musicians, each one of them, had a public perfor- entitled ‘Art and Authority’. not been renovated since the 1960s, Service were put on drivers’ Đurić has been playing in the capi- ing to the Kalemegdan Park, you might banknotes. mance on the Sava river bank where a jury of ten members from the Secretary of The paintings, according to she added. windscreens, while cars left in tal’s main pedestrian zone for ten years also see a young woman with long hair “And I really need the money, sorry,” Culture evaluated their work. the museum, illustrate the Among the permanent exhibitions places where parking is forbidden with his band “Melody”. playing the violin. She usually comes the young violinist adds, putting the in- cultural ideology of his re- at the museum is ‘Up Close and Per- were towed away. From now on, As we talk, a short older man ap- around 5pm and stays for an hour or strument on her shoulder and starting Apart from musicians, jugglers, pantomimists, painters and other performers gime. sonal with Tito’, a display of the for- cars will only be removed on the proaches us, smiling broadly. “Jovan, two, mostly playing well-known classi- to play, moving her body to the rhythm also need licences to entertain the public and solicit donations. “They are not just inno- mer leader’s personal items, clothes, orders of traffic or community come here!,” Đurić whoops. cal pieces. of the music, keeping her eyes closed. cent representations of na- uniforms and souvenirs from foreign police officers. Tickets for ture and cities but have a trips, intended to give an insight into irregularly parked cars cost 5,000 clear role in political propa- his life and mind. dinars [€42], but drivers will get ganda, as images of a new More details and entry times are a 50 per cent discount if they pay society and a historic confir- available at its website, www.mij.rs. within eight days. mation of a new Yugoslavia,” The Museum of the museum’s website says. Ivana NIKOLIĆ The museum complex in the Bel- ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ grade suburb of Dedinje, where the erbian basketball players who won the silver medal at Yugoslav History will ONCE ””, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” he former leader’s li- former Yugoslav leader’s body also the World Championship in Spain, also got some graf- RESTURANT KOVAČ brary at the Museum of lies in a mausoleum known as the fiti in Belgrade. Street artist, Andrej Josifovski, painted allow public access modern ethno restaurant this huge piece of graffiti showing one of the best to parts of Josip Yugoslav History, assem- ‘House of Flowers’, is the most visited Serbian players, Miloš Teodosić, and the coach of the bled over four decades in Serbia. Serbian national team, Aleksandar Đorđević, ahead of Broz Tito’s private from World War II on- But despite attracting some 100, th Twards, forms a fascinating addition to 000 visitors a year and generating Sthe final game between Belgrade and the USA on September 14 , in the Belgrade neighbourhood of Bežanijska Kosa. library this month, the annual European Heritage Days revenue from the Tito trinkets and from September 20th to 27t. Yugo-nostalgia souvenirs sold in its as well as showing Normally closed to the public, gift shop, it suffers from a lack of fund- Tito’s library contains books gifted ing. Hidden Belgrade off the paintings he by world leaders and Serbian institu- “We are trying to apply for funds Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com collected. tions, works of literature, art books, at embassies. But we also want the 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 7 ADVERT BUSINESS

ADVERTORIAL Continued from page 1 OPEN AIR SHOPPING CENTRE Serbia Perfect Čumićevo Sokače forgets pledge to Wellness leave state firms to Service Whether you came on business or professionals private reasons, don’t forget that you’re in the fastest-living city in the region – relaxation is of the utmost importance.

46 arin Milosavljevicć, marketing manager of the WellnessLand Center and SkyWellness Club 48 will tell you a little more about reasons why those are decidedly 44 Mthe places which offer absolute maximum when 40 it comes to spa services, saunas, massage and fit- 43 ness activities in Belgrade. 56 36 About autumn refreshments: For a whole decade in WellnessLand, and more than five years in Sky- Wellness, we’re in love with a healthy life. During those years we learnt that the essence of a good service shouldn’t be changed, but that occasional refreshments are always a good thing. With that in mind, this season we in- 25 troduce new working hours – for the early birds, we’re open from 6:30 AM, 82 which has garnered great approval from all our members, but also from 20 our intermittent clients. Also, because of many guests from abroad, who 15 spend several continual days or weeks in Belgrade on account of business, 19 we devised a new kind of monthly fee, as well as a day pass. That way, we are more available than ever, and our service is still as exclusive as ever.

About a unique concept of WellnessLand Center: Conceptually, WellnessLand is very close to Western clubs with exclu- sive membership. Our members appreciate their own privacy, as well as respecting the privacy of other people. Whether you’re here because of exercise, spa zone, pool, body treatment or some combination of the of- Map artwork by fered services, alone or in company, time spent in WellnessLand will relax GANOO DISTRICT STUDIO FOR CONTEMPORARY ART you and prepare you for your various business and private challenges. Our Experts are closely looking at whom the government will appoint to replace Aleksandar Obradović, acting director of EPS. Photo by Beta permanent members come mostly by way of reccomendation, and we ob- viously have more than a good reputation among foreign guests of our city, e will appoint “For example, the Progressives are director - who can be arbitrarily replaced because they keep coming back every time they return to Belgrade. 15 19 20 25 acting directors planning to replace their people who at any time - is subjected to the parties’ in- for some compa- didn’t manage to cope with their tasks - fluence all the time,” he noted. About the excellent nies, and for all but by replacing one acting director with “Keeping executives in the status of atmosphere in SkyWellness Club: of them we will another, not by electing candidates in a acting directors is a perfect excuse for not In SkyWellness Club, we have a luxury of the best view in town. If you open“W public calls and elect professionals competition,” Nenadić told BIRN. implementing the necessary reforms,” have ever heard those incredible stories about a night life on Belgrade’s riv- - the best in the field,” Aleksandar Vučić, He added that competitions for top Nenadić continued. ers, the early-morning or day exercise with a perfect view on those same the Prime Minister, said in late July. posts in numerous public companies rivers will render you speechless! SkyWellness Club is young and full of OIL WORKSHOP. ECO ART. GIFT SHOP. HANDMADE HOMEWARE DESIGN FROM Edible oils, natural handmade cosmetics, gifts He added that 70 per cent of public were still open, in spite of having been GETTING positive energy, and a favorite city spot when it comes to best quality exer- VINTAGE TO PROVCATIVE Made in Serbia companies’ directors would be replaced launched more than a year ago. COMPANIES ON TRACK cise. Sauna, various kinds of body treatments, and services of professional Working hours: Gallery of unique items by professionals by the end of August. On the other hand, although local gov- trainers are also available to our guests. The BEST COFFEE in town Jewelry, fashion accessories, original gifts. Tel: +381 60 44 24 777; +381 64 26 38 210 This still has not happened. ernments have selected new executives Nikola Pavičić, honorary director of Mon-FriL 12:00-20:00, Sat: 12:00-16:00 E-mail: [email protected] Phone: +381 11 33 44 905 www.holigiftshop.rs Meanwhile, the lack of reforms in debt- for the companies they own in competi- the private company Tarket, one of Ser- About an incredible equipment: 060/15-33-088, 060/461-24-43 FB: www.facebook.com/allnutbelgrade www.remakehome.net making public enterprises is threatening tions, the results have been mixed. bia’s ten largest exporters, believes the On both locations, we offer our guests exclusively the equipment made to sink the country’s public finances. The “They have mainly elected people who appointment of professional manag- by renowned Italian manufacturer Technogym. We are aware that multi- 36 40 43 44 Fiscal Council report on public companies, already served as acting directors, while ers in public enterprises would deliver tasking and clever utilization of every single moment are essential to mod- published in July, revealed that they cost the the local media easily established their speedy results. ern living, and that’s the reason why you can, while excercising, check your GANOO DISTRICT state about €1 billion, 3 per cent of GDP, a year. links with the ruling parties,” he said. “The best example is the Petroleum In- email, talk via Skype, leave your status on social networking services, or STUDIO FOR CONTEMPORARY ART “It is an annual price that the government “The whole process has created dis- dustry of Serbia, NIS. This troubled com- just watch an episode of your favorite sitcom. Design, functionality and pays for an unsuccessful business enter- trust, as the elections have involved only pany, which used to be state run, has made high quality of Tecnogym equipment are unmatched. Technogym is our prises in its possession,” the council wrote. one or two candidates who applied for great results since the bought a first choice, because we do not compromise when it comes to the quality The council stated that one reason for the competition,” Nenadić added. majority stake,” Pavičić told BIRN. of our services. Gallery exibits paintings of D.M.Tapi, well the poor performances of public com- Ljubomir Madžar, an economic analyst, He says that he is surprised that state- Body Piercing, Piercing jewelry known Serbian painter-hipperrealist, Fashion studio,Handmade Silver and stainless steel rings, necklaces, including selling giftshop. workshop,Unique garment and accessories panies is bad management. “Due to bad believes the state is unlikely to start select- owned companies have not introduced bracelets, Leather bracelets Working hours: mon.-fri.: 12h-19h, sat.: 12h-16h management, these companies operated ing directors following competitive public the principles of modern corporate man- Phone: +381 11 323 06 72; +381 63 864 88 52 http://ganoo.free.fr Phone: +381 11 3244 320, +381 64 198 39 66 unsuccessfully, and finally, impose a high calls, with no meddling from the parties. agement. As an example of good practice, Phone: 011 334 3376 e-mail: [email protected] [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] fiscal cost,” the report wrote. “That would destroy the possibility of he named the practice that executives www.facebook.com/bebeautybg www.dmtapi.com FB: www.facebook.com/Autorke the parties employing their own people,” applying for responsible position should NO CHANGE IN SIGHT Madžar told BIRN. have a license from the Association of 46 48 56 82 “It would also mean that they would Corporate Managers. THE ARTWORKSHOP Despite promises to introduce profes- lose control over the prices [which the “If you want a successful business, the sionals and experts into top positions in companies set for their services],” he state must act as a private owner who public companies, little has been done, added, noting that price increases could chooses the most qualified candidates,” Nemanja Nenadić from the watchdog or- cause discontent among voters. Pavičić said. Marija Hand Made makes clothes from ganisation Transparency Serbia, said. Nenadić says that another way in However, Ljubomir Madžar believes Backpacker prices, cool music, free Wi-Fi natural materials that are in tune He told BIRN that in recent months which political leaders keep control of that not even more professional manage- internet, friendly staff, willing to help with your heart & soul THINK OF YOURSELF AND officials have issued statements, which public companies is by appointing only ment can promptly restore Serbia’s state- Working hours: Mon-Fri: 12-20h, Sat: 10-18h INVEST IN YOUR HEALTH Working hours: Mon-Sat 10-01 ALL ABOUT CERAMICS AND PORCELAIN Spa and wellness centers in Serbia. showed that changes among executives acting directors. owned enterprises to health. Čumićevo sokače 48 Phone: +381 64 25 88 421 in public companies would be conducted “Even an executive appointed solely “I don’t think a change of management mon-fri 12-20h, sat 12-17h FIRST FLOOR Phone: 063 7398605 Phone: +381 60 44 88 300, +381 60 0960240 Working hours: Phone: +381 11 328-3542, on the basis of whether the parties that for his party connections has some au- can significantly change the situation email: [email protected] email: [email protected] [email protected] www.marijaivankovic.com http://gallery1250.com +381 1126-27-049 appointed them were satisfied with their tonomy in his work and over the imple- in these companies, at least not in the performance, or not. mentation of programmes, but an acting short term,” Madžar concluded. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 9 REGION OUT AND ABOUT Pope will find Secrets of fast-changing church in Albania Macedonia’s

and his name purged from literature text- Parma yellow - a tourist attraction that When Pope books during their iron-fisted rule. has given the neighbourhood new life The church and convent in Shkodra, and wealth. colourful Francis arrives like nearly all places of worship, were gut- The Jesuits run a large seminary. The ted, profaned by conversion into ware- Don Bosco community centre gathers in Albania he houses or shut down and demolished children from all religions, and the Church - only to be rebuilt after the regime col- runs some of the area’s best schools. will find a very lapsed. The belfry of the Friar’s Church and Albania’s strictly atheist form of com- convent, rebuilt in the late Nineties, now south different Catholic munism in the second half of the 20th cen- rivals the minarets of a large Saudi-fund- Church from tury was a major trauma for the country’s ed mosque across the street. Catholics. However, Sheldija, who witnessed the the one that his The regime all but wiped out religious early masses in his hometown when practice and forced everyone to pay lip churches reopened and has been a Sun- predecessor John service to Communist anti-religious ti- day churchgoer ever since, says that al- rades under the threat of imprisonment. though people then had less knowledge Paul II visited two “During , I was accus- about the faith, they were more devout. tomed to drawing the ‘good partisan’,” “Now the knowledge is there but the decades ago. Sheldija, the painter, recalls. “As atone- practice is more superficial,” he said. ment I now do ‘bad partisans’, and even Nor is the city of Shkodra Albania’s Altin RAXHIMI that needed some getting used to,” he Catholic capital any longer. added. According to Fr Gjergj Meta, the he painting that kicks off After nearly half-a-century of rule, church’s youthful spokesman, a third of Pjerin Sheldija’s cycle on the communism violently collapsed in 1991. the country’s Catholics, mostly from im- travails of Albania’s Fran- The country by then was left with only a poverished areas of the north, but also ciscan order, which inter- handful of octogenarian clerics, many of educated urban Catholics, have migrated mingles with Via Crucis se- whom emerged fresh from labour camps to more mixed religious areas around Ti- Tquences at the Friars’ Church in Shkodra, and jails. rana and Durres. sports a horned devil who guides a mus- On September 21st, Albania will host Meta notes that the Church has tachioed Communist partisan, menacing Pope Francis’s first visit to a European changed, by adapting to its followers’ two friars who carry armloads of rifles. country, where he has said he wants to new environment. The number of mixed It refers to an actual event in 1946, bear witness to the recovery of a mar- marriages in this highly mixed part of the when Communist partisans allegedly tyred church and nation. country has increased, so that negotiated stashed the friars’ monastery with weap- It is the second papal visit to Albania, church marriages with people of other ons during the night and then accused following the 1993 landmark trip of Karol confessions constitute the majority of Fr them of assisting anti-Communist rebels Wojtyla. Meta’s Sunday ceremonials. the next morning. Catholics number only about a tenth of The demographic shift has also Another of Sheldija’s paintings in the Albania’s population of 3 million. People Pope Francis will visit Albania on September 21st. Photo by Andrew Medichin/AP brought about changes on how the Cath- church, titled “Faith Attested by Blood”, from a Sunni Muslim background make olic Church perceives its role. describes how the Catholic faith was up more than half, while the rest are di- Members of the Catholic clergy found- The northern city of Shkodra has his- “We had been a church of doctrine,” Fr preserved in this corner of the Balkans vided between Shia Muslim sects domi- ed Albania’s literary tradition, while torically been the urban centre of Alba- Meta said, sitting in his guest room, by the despite the pressure to convert to Islam nated by the Bektashis and Orthodox many composers, musicians or actors nian Catholicism. There, after half-a-cen- Church of St Lucy in the coastal town of under the . Christians. came from Sunday choirs or bandstands. tury of harsh Communist rule, the faith Durres, a 20-minute drive west from the The painting shows two friars being Some Catholic believers are recent Documentary photography was de- has experienced a revival in the last two capital, Tirana. crucified in front of a man with a tasseled converts from other religions, including veloped by a Catholic family, the Maru- decades. St Lucy’s church is located in a tradi- red fez and a barrel-chested swordsman. a handful of the current clergy. The priest bis, who began their work in the city of Inter-marriages between Catholics and tionally Muslim neighborhood of Durres Photos by Nemanja Čabrić Under the marble floor of the church to who served until recently the deeply Shkodra in the late 19th century. members of other religions have always where now many Roma families live and the left lies the remains of Gjergj Fishta, a Catholic Mirdita region, for example, is The Catholic community historically been rare and ostracised, and the Catho- which is home to only two Catholic fami- to try their luck. The casinos have their The forests around the ski resort are one can see villages on the other side nationalist Franciscan polymath whom named Kemal, an Albanian rendering of lived in the northwest, a good part of it lics still live somehow segregated to the lies, according to Fr Meta. There is much more to Macedonia own hotels, restaurants, parking lots, filled in autumn with blueberry pickers and a train rushing towards Thessalon- many consider Albania’s national poet. the Arab word, Gamal. composed of traditional mountain peo- north of this city’s even religious divide. According to the friar, tending to his spas, bars and offer various services, but a few tourists are still there, lurking iki, which is only some 50km further Stalinist Albania was unforgiving to Despite its small size, the Catholic com- ple whose “an eye-for-an eye” beliefs, The once run-down buildings that community’s needs has taken precedence than Lake Ohrid. From the bustling often for free, as long as one keeps on in the restaurant located at the bottom south. priests like Fishta. A member of the Acad- munity played an outsized role in the Al- based on the mythologised medieval constituted the historic Catholic quarter over proselytising. “We are now veering throwing the dice. of the ski slopes, which are closed by Once a town of some 2,000 families, emy of Sciences of Rome during the Fas- banian nationalist revival in the early 20th code of Leke Dukagjini, existed alongside of Gjuhadol have now been re-plastered towards becoming a church whose prior- casinos of Gevgelija to the calming The fact that the town now attracts now. a significant transit place in the Otto- cist era in Italy, his books were banned century under the Ottoman Empire. conventional religious dogmas. and renovated and repainted in pink or ity is serving people in need,” he said. gambling tourists has changed its rural The ski resort in Kozuf is still in de- man Empire, it was destroyed almost blue waters of Lake Doiran, the area feel. These days, this can only be felt on velopment, and although there are down to the ground in the Balkan Wars Thursdays, the market day, when villag- some ten tracks and a brand new lift and the First World War, when it was bordering Greece is a land of surprises. ers and traders from the surrounding with six seats, the resort hotels have yet cut in half by the so-called Thessaloniki areas bring their fruit, vegetables and to open. Real tourism is still in its early Front. Nemanja ČABRIĆ However, driving on the local roads other products to town. stages here, despite the beauty of the Today, it has three settlements inside is not something to be done in haste. Besides the usual fish or barbecued mountain, with its thick pine forests Macedonia – Star (Old) Doiran, Nov rom the town of Gevgelija, a Besides the holes and bumps, there are meats, the restaurants or of intersected by cold, rapid mountain (New) Doiran and Nikolić. haven for gamblers and kaf- trucks, tractors and cyclists - and not a Gevgelija serve tasty salads, made of streams, waterfalls and several-metre- Since the Fifties, the people who re- ana lovers, to the refresh- few carriages pulled by horses or don- freshly picked vegetables from local deep ponds - perfect for cooling down settled the ruins of Star Doiran started ing Lake Doiran or majestic keys. Not to mention the rocks on the farms. Together they make a perfect in the peak of the summer. developing tourism, but then the lake Modern city hotel in a perfect location Mt Kozuf, the border area road. snack, a meze in the local language, Still, for those who wish to explore dried up in the Nineties as a result of Fbetween Macedonia and Greece has But the patience is more than worth which goes nicely with a sip of rakija, it, the mountain offers some 70km of over-use of its water for farming. To- much to offer. it, and the biggest gamble around is cer- which the locals often simply call zolta marked hiking paths, and some ex- day, however, the level of water is back Some 550 kilometres down the E75 tainly not the road. (yellow). treme cycling paths are due to open, up – good news for the fish that the highway from Belgrade, a fascinating The trick in this town is to take small which will draw more people through- lake was once famous for in Ottoman variation of the Balkan ambience beck- WELCOME TO VEGAS nibbles of food while drinking slowly out the year. The two hotels, with times. 21000 , Serbia ons. Instead of apples and plums - the and discussing politics, sports and his- around 300 beds in total, are in the fin- Only about one kilometre from the Ilije Ognjanovica 24 usual fruits found in Serbia - pomegran- The town of Gevgelija was once the tory - perhaps another influence of the ishing phase, while recently a new road border with Greece, Doiran is a fine ates, figs and Fuji apples hang in bunch- southernmost point of Yugoslavia. Mediterranean. was built all the way to the resort. stopping place for swimming, even Phone: +381(0)21/66-15-555 es in front of houses and orchards. Some 15,000 people lived here, mainly during the autumn, for dining in restau- Moreover, the grape for rakija here from agriculture. The warm climate and CLIMB EVERY MOUNTAIN STONES’S THROW rants or by the beach, or for walking un- Fax : +381(0)21/422-652 is yellow and often has a typical fertile soil, as well as silkworms, were FROM GREECE der the maples and watching the fisher- Hamburg aroma, which is unthinka- once the source of the town’s prosperity. Around Gevgelija there are numer- man in their boats. [email protected] ble in, let’s say, Montenegro. The prox- Today, much of the population of ous picnic sites and resorts, the most Lake Doiran gets its metallic blue shine From Star Doiran, which offers sim- [email protected] imity of the Greek border makes this Macedonia’s Las Vegas, as it is known, famous of which is the 2,000-metre- from the reflection of the slopes of Mt Be- ple but cheap accommodation, one can [email protected] area also a place of transit. It all adds works in two big casinos owned by for- high Mt Kozuf, which has a natural lasica and the snow that remains on the easily reach Mt Olympus in Greece, the up to an interesting mixture of urban eign investors. mineral spring, Smrdliva Voda, some high peaks for the most of the year. beaches of Halkidiki peninsula, and - www.hotelputnik.rs and rural life and of agriculture and Visitors from Greece, as well as other 850 metres up, and a ski resort near Besides the mountain, from the Star when returning home - the internation- tourism. foreigners travelling through, stop by the summit. Doiran on the very border with Greece, al airport in Thessaloniki. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 11 ARTS HEALTH AND FAMILY

Pre-WWI Austro- Exhibitions Serbian relations and Events in focus Researchers’ World War I FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 19th This exhibition timed to Cirkobalkana circus open stage, Museum of coincide with the cente- Modern Art, Ušće Park, 8pm

Arts in brief Arts in brief Night summons nary of the start of World SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 20th War One will give insights takes centre Exhibition: Danica Jovanović, Serbian Army into relations between House, Braće Jugović 19, 1pm Austria and Serbia leading Exhibition: Memorial exhibition MBDJ, up a spirit of watercolour and illustration, Bogić Gallery, up to the conflict, from Pljevaljska 42, 7pm 1836 to 1914. It docu- SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 21st ments relations between stage at BITEF adventure 5th Belgrade Festival of Flowers, Manjež Park, the two countries start- 10pm ing with the arrival of MONDAY SEPTEMBER 22nd Austria’s first diplomat in the , Exhibition: Queer Salon, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 10pm A treasure hunt, decoding messages all the way up to the start th of the war. The exhibition THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 25 written in invisible ink, a chat with runs until October 5th at Exhibition: Opening of the International Comicbook Salon, Students Cultural Centre, Konak Knjeginje Ljubice, Kralja Milana 48, 6pm Nikola Tesla and a journey back a part of the Belgrade City Exhibition: Ametist Group, Cvijeta Zuzorić Pavillion, Kalemegdan Park, 7pm Museum. in time to the age of the dinosaurs SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 28th French writer B_Tour Festival – Dorćol Soundwalk, are just some of the adventures Emmanuel Adely Parobrod, Kapetan Mišina 6, 9am visits Belgrade MONDAY SEPTEMBER 29th awaiting visitors to the fifth annual Delicatessen Monday: Mexico, Grad Cultural Well-known contempo- Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 7pm Researchers’ Night. rary French writer Em- TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 30th European Researchers’ Night kicks off on September 26th. Photo by Jessica Lucia/Flickr manuel Adely is visiting Exhibition: Bernard Moninot, Haos Gallery, Belgrade until the end of Dositejeva 3, 8pm esearchers’ Night on Sep- hidden in a fossil, write their name in hi- “It’s important to show young peo- Students Park where they will trans- The French Institute will host an ex- September to take part tember 26th will present eroglyphics and create a tornado. ple how interesting science can be, port them back in time to the age of hibition that will reveal scientists’ lives in the KROKODIL writers’ Theatre more than 40 different “The contents of Researchers’ Night and how many possibilities it brings,” Leonardo Da Vinci, to ancient Egypt through a series of photographs. At organisation’s Writers in programmes at different are fresh, attractive, interactive, well Anđelka Vučetić Dragović, a forensic and even to the time of the dinosaurs. the same venue, visitors will have the Residence programme. locations around Belgrade suited for all ages and do not require scientist, said. At the Students Park, children will be chance to learn how to play some an- FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 19th The Parisian author is Rwith the aim of showing both children any specific educational background,” At the same venue, visitors will also have invited to decode messages written in cient board games and build their own known for his unusual Misery (S. King), Atelje 212, Svetogorska 21, 8pm and curious adults that science is an in- the organisers stated. the chance to hear about interesting facts invisible ink, make a rainbow, help little windmills to take away. prose style, in which he Scene from the Hans-Werner Kroesinger’s play, Battlefield of Memory. Photo by Bitef SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 21st teresting adventure. At Knez Mihailova 5, visitors will that only scientists know, such as what lies dinosaurs hatch from eggs, or get into The event in Belgrade is part of Eu- usually communicates From 5pm to 11pm, children will have a chance to go speed dating with behind the feeling of being in love. the role of Indiana Jones. ropean Researchers’ Night, an annual The co-curators of the festival, Anja the First World War, and which helped Bitef: (A)Polonia (dir. K. Varlikovski), Belgrade have the chance to go treasure hunting, dozens of scientists and find out more The late scientists Nikola Tesla and The programmes for younger visitors organised event that takes place simul- through monologues or Fair, Hall 3, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 14, 7pm The conflagration Suša and Jovan Ćirilov, said one reason form an image of Europe that led to the gathering clues and fulfilling four tasks about their work. Some of the scientists Đorđe Stanojević - via actors - will be are mainly located in Ušće Shopping taneously in about 300 cities on the last dialogues without paying nd for selecting the First World War as a Second World War, the Cold War and MONDAY SEPTEMBER 22 down Knez Mihailova Street. In order that Belgraders can meet are forensic chatting about their life and work with Mall, where they will also have the op- Friday of September. Entrance is free of much attention to formal that began with starting point was because the fate of the wars on the territory of the former Bitef: Past is Present (dir. K. Mayer), The to find treasure, kids will have to isolate scientists who solve crimes in the lab, people at Trg Republike, while more portunity to move seas and mountains charge. To see the full programme, visit grammatical rules or punc- the assassination the Balkan region was intrinsically tied Yugoslavia,” Suša recently told the Bel- National Theatre, Francuska 1, 8pm DNA from a mummy, solve the mystery and mathematicians. than 20 scientists will await visitors at with their bare hands or build a robot. nocistrazivaca.rs. tuation. to that of the war. grade daily Blic. THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 25th It was a Bosnian Serb nationalist, Gavri- While the First World War will be in Sarajevo will be Bitef: A Tomb for Boris Davidović (dir. I. Carmen opens lo Princip, who assassinated the Arch- a central theme of some of the plays, Buljan), Bitef Theatre, Mire Trailović Square National Theatre a major theme at duke Franz Ferdinand of Austria and his other themes will include other wars, 1, 8pm wife in Sarajevo in June 1914, leading to censorship, political injustices and anti- opera season th FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 26th the 48 Belgrade war breaking out all over Europe. Semitism. Many theatre groups have recently “Our Class,” by Polish playwright Ta- Dragonkillers (M. Marković), Yugoslav Drama The National Theatre will Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm theatre festival. expressed interest in the First World deusz Slobodzianek, has become one of kick off its 2014-15 opera War, Suša and Ćirilov say. European the most controversial plays in Poland SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 27th season on October 1st with David GALIĆ theatre companies are offering up their for focusing on the topic of anti-Semi- Bitef: This Grave Is Too Small For Me (B. a performance of Georges own reflections on the events and con- tism in Poland after the First World War. Srbljanović), Bitef Theatre, Mire Trailović Bizet’s ‘Carmen’ directed he main focus at the 48th sequences of the war, with their own ar- A total of 13 theatre troupes from Square 1, 8pm by National Theatre regular Belgrade International tistic observations and interpretations. around the world will be staging per- MONDAY SEPTEMBER 29th Nebojša Bradić. The role Theatre Festival, BITEF, The motto of this year’s festival will formances in the Serbian capital. BITEF th Glorious! (P. Quilter), Atelje 212, Svetogorska of Carmen will be sung by between September 20 fittingly be “Past is Present,” and, ac- organizers urge potential festival goers 21, 8pm and 30th, will be on the cording to Suša, many of the featured to pay special attention to “(A)pollonia,” the popular Belgrade-born TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 30th Thundredth anniversary of the start of performances are related to the major by the Polish director Krzysztof War- prima donna Jadranka the First World War. events and themes that shaped the 20th likowski, and to “Front,” by Germany’s Bitef: Front (L. Perceval), Yugoslav Drama Jovanović. The opera While the plays featuring in the fes- and early 21st century. Luk Perceval. Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm under Bradić’s direction tival are not all directly about the war, “Some offer a questioning of long- For more detailed information on the THURSDAY OCTOBER 2nd originally premiered in most are linked thematically to this lasting and unfinished political and festival programme, check out the fes- Premiere: The Damned Yard (M. Selimović), spring 2012. great historical event. societal processes, which started with tival’s official website at festival.bitef.rs. The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 8pm

55th October Salon

19/09 – 02/11/2014 www.oktobarskisalon.org

Disappearing things

www.oktobarskisalon.org Belgrade City Museum, Resavska Street 40b 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 13 WHAT’S ON ON THE SPOT

Clubbing and Live Music hhClub House, Mr. Stefan Braun, hhFloating Wednesday, Tijuana Savski kej bb, 10pm hhRNB Night, Hot mess, Ušće bb, 10pm ADVERTORIAL Nemanjina 4, 11pm Svemirska Kafana, Savski kej bb, hhOliver Stoiljković, Sindikat, hhJust Relax, Just Vanilla, Ada Henry 10pm Brodarska bb, 10pm Ciganlija, 11pm ST FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 19TH SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 21 hhSound fever, Sound, Brodarska bb, hhSome Like it Hot, Lasta - Gradski hhDie beste, Cantina De Frida, Moore’s 11pm splav, Hercegovačka bb, 10pm Karađorđeva 2-4, 11pm Cherishing hhHammerhead, Mnjenje, Grad hhAmy LaVere & Will Sexton, Grad hhTurnUP TurnUP, Povetarac, Staro hhFreestyler night, Freestyler, exhibition Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović TH Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović sajmište bb, 11pm Brodarska bb, 10pm TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 30 4, 9pm opens at 4, 9pm hhGrandpa aka Marko Nikodijević, hhMashup or Shutup, Povetarac, Your Look hhBelgrade Banging, Freestyler, Ušće hhMikica and Arsa, Sunset Club, Ada hhLucky Light LTD Showcase – Mark Tapas Bar, Dositejeva 17, 9pm Staro sajmište bb, 11pm bb, 11pm Ciganlija bb, 11pm National Broom, Svemirska Kafana, Ušće hhBuzzin, Freestyler, Ušće bb, hhMy boyfriend is out of town, hhRnB & House Night, River, Ušće bb, hhAfter work party, Shake ‘N Shake, bb, 11pm 11pm Terassa, Mali Kalemegdan bb, Over the Years 11pm Ušće bb, 7pm Museum hhDrugstore Season III opening – hhSunglasses at Night, Sijuks, Savski 11pm Truss, Drugstore, Bulevar Despota hhŠ I K....B A Š T E N S K I....B A (r) Z A hhJimmy’s party, Jimmy’s, Ušće bb, kej, 10pm hhGuest DJs, Hot mess, Ušće bb, van Tasovac, the Serbian culture minister, R....3, Kućica, Borislava Pekića 15, 10pm Since ancient times, women have Stefana 115, 11pm hhSound fever, Sound, Brodarska bb, 10pm opened the exhibition ‘Henry Moore – a 5pm hhMarko Žujović and Sanela, hhPure Cream RnB, Club 94, Ušće bb, 11pm hhMilena Ćeranic, Jimmy’s, Uše 1a, graphic’ at the National Museum on sought to preserve the beauty of hhGuest DJs, Hot mess, Ušće bb, Akapulko, Kej oslobođenja bb, th 11pm hhFlashdance, Lasta, Hercegovacka 11pm September 11 . Denis Keefe, the British 10pm 10pm I their skin and prolong a youthful hhCan’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar bb, 11pm hhSound Rock, Sound, Usće bb, Ambassador to Serbia, Tony O’Brien, the hhMatinee party, Lasta, hhDJ Playa, Angelis (Ex Republika), kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm 11pm British Council’s CEO for the Western Balkans, appearance. At LaDerma, we offer a Hercegovacka bb, 5pm TH Pariska 1, 10pm and Serbia’s writer Biljana Srbljanović are just hhStreetriffs fest, Klub Sioux, THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 25 hhBlah Blah bend, Cantina De Frida, hhHip Hop Night, Povetarac, Staro some of the people who attended the opening range of techniques and procedures to Skadarska 40a, 9pm ND Karađorđeva 2-4, 11pm MONDAY SEPTEMBER 22 hhArkona, Inferno, Armada, sajmište bb, 11pm ceremony. The exhibition will be open until hhDj Brka & Ichisan, 20/44, Savski kej hhLa Luna, Sunset, , October 31st. help you achieve this goal. bb, 10pm Panychida, Gun Club, Miloša hhGuest DJs, Hot mess, Ušće bb, hhFind a Boyfriend, Povetarac, Staro 11pm hhOliver Stoiljković, Sindikat, Pocerca 10, 10pm h 10pm sajmište bb, 11pm hSt. Louis, Bitef Art Café Summer Brodarska bb, 10pm hhZaokret – end of season, Grad hhDenis & Obule, Cantina De Frida, hhFriends Night, River, Ušće bb, Stage, Kalemegdan, 10pm Malaysian IN THE 30S, THE FACE STARTS TO hhSome Like it Hot, Lasta - Gradski Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović Karađorđeva 2-4, 10.30pm LOSE ITS VOLUME WHILE WRIN- 11pm TH splav, Hercegovačka bb, 10pm 4, 10pm SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 27 embassy celebrate KLES BECOME MORE VISIBLE. hhEclipse Unplugged, Tramvaj, WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 1ST hhFreestyler night, Freestyler, hhAlt Kafana, Šlep, Ušće bb, 11pm The days when anti-ageing treat- Ruzveltova 2, 9pm ments used to leave all clients with stiff Brodarska bb, 10pm hhHouse Night, Freestyler, Ušće bb, hhEyot, Palilula Cultural Centre, National Day hhMess Around Monday, Hot mess, hhSneža Nešić i Nemanja Staletović, and frozen faces that all resemble one hhMashup or Shutup, Povetarac, 11pm Mitropolita Petra 8, 8pm Ušće bb, 10pm Akapulko, Kej oslobođenja bb, another are long gone. The secret of bril- Staro sajmište bb, 11pm hhElectro Fest – Prodigy Night – hhLemolo, Grad Cultural Centre, he Embassy of Malaysia held a reception to mark hhJust Relax, Just Vanilla, Ada 10pm liant skin lies in a healthy, youthful ap- Basswave – Hellectro, KST, Bulevar Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm the 57th anniversary of the country’s independ- hhMy boyfriend is out of town, pearance achieved by taking a careful, Ciganlija, 11pm hhShake the Wednesday, Shake ‘N ence and 48th anniversary of the formation of Terassa, Mali Kalemegdan bb, Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm hhXerox, Vertical Mode, Electric individual approach to each patient. hhDie beste, Cantina De Frida, Shake, Ušće bb, 10pm the Malaysian state on September 16th. Yubazlan 11pm hhTo The Moon And Back, Universe, Barutana, Kalemegdan, T BABY BOTOX treatments can now be Karađorđeva 2-4, 11pm hhVukašin Brajić, Čorba splav, Yusof, Charge d’Affaires a.i. of the Malaysian embassy and hhGuest DJs, Hot mess, Ušće bb, Shake’n’Shake, Savski kej bb, 11pm fully applied to help beautify the skin. The Brodarska bb, 10pm his spouse welcomed more then 300 guests into an at- 11pm hhBilly Nasty, Boza Podunavac, treatments consist of applications of spe- 10pm TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 23RD mosphere that reflected Malaysia’s unique blend of colors, hhFloating Wednesday, Tijuana cific doses of Botox to carefully selected hhMilena Ćeranic, Jimmy’s, Uše 1a, hhRasuolo band, Akapulko, Kej Luca Concrete b2b Aleksadar tastes and cultures. Vuk Jeremić, former Serbian foreign Svemirska Kafana, Savski kej bb, areas, while maintaining the mobility of oslobođenja bb, 10pm Ivković, Sava Centre Summer minister and former president of the United Nations Gen- 11pm hhNineties Party, Freestyler, boat on the face (mimicry). Wrinkles are softened, h 10pm hhSound Rock, Sound, Usće bb, Sava River, 10pm hPanike Bez, Tijuana Svemirska Stage, Milentija Popovića 9, eral Assembly was one of the guests. hhSound fever, Sound, Brodarska bb, Dr Biljana ĐURĐEVIĆ eyes become more open and the whole 11pm hhDJ Playa, Angelis, Pariska 1, 10pm Kafana, Savski kej bb, 11pm 11pm face looks fresher and more rested. h h 11pm hhBlah Blah bend, Cantina De Frida, hhJimmy’s party, Jimmy’s, Ušće bb, hParty, Povetarac, Staro sajmište bb, hAngels Night, Angels, Pariska 1, UP TO THE 20S, THE MOST COM- During this period, hyaluronic acid is hhTurnUP TurnUP, Povetarac, Staro Karađorđeva 2-4, 11pm 10pm 11pm 11pm MON ISSUES ARE ACNE AND PROB- most commonly used for minor correc- h h sajmište bb, 11pm LEMATIC SKIN. tions, such as filling the naso-labial wrin- hhLa Luna, Sunset, Ada Ciganlija, hhMarko Žujović and Sanela, hLasta goes Hip Hop, Lasta - hDJ Mirko & DJ Meeks, Freestyler, hhKoktel Band, Sunset Club, Ada hanks to modern formulas of kles, contour, increasing lip volume and 11pm Akapulko, Kej oslobođenja bb, Gradski splav, Hercegovačka bb, Usće bb, 11pm Ciganlija, 11pm non-aggressive dermatologi- correcting eye bags. hhMakao, Bitef Art Café Summer 11.30pm hhEx Yu Eighties, KST, Bulevar kralja 10pm h cal chemical peels, long-last- AS TIME GOES BY, SKIN CHANGES h hGuest DJs, Hot mess, Ušće bb, Stage, Kalemegdan, 10pm hhHip Hop Night, Povetarac, Staro hGuest DJs, Hot mess, Ušće bb, Aleksandra 73, 10pm 10pm ing cosmetic treatments are a AND THESE CHANGES BECOME 10pm hhPalooza: House - Dj Felipe T sajmište bb, 11pm h thing of the past. Peelings leave no red- MORE OBVIOUS IN THE 40SS. TH h hDisco, KST, Bulevar kralja SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 20 hhMikica and Arsa, Sunset Club, Ada hAca Lukas, Jimmy’s, Ušće bb, 10pm Simo & Dj Nikola Pesut, ness, swelling, scaling or scabs. Chemi- To obtain a uniform and beautiful skin h Aleksandra 73, 10pm Ciganlija bb, 11pm hKraak and Smaak, Bitef Art Café Shake’n’Shake, Savski kej bb, cal peel treatments consist of applying complexion, it is advisable to undergo hhUnearth, Dom Omladine, hhI Love RnB, Freestyler, boat on hhAfter work party, Shake ‘N Shake, Summer Stage, Kalemegdan, 11pm different types of acids in various per- CHEMICAL PILING treatment, while at this Makedonska 22, 9pm h Sava River, 11pm centages on the face, neck, chest or back. age BOTOX and HYALURONIC ACID treat- Ušće bb, 7pm 10pm hNew Sound - Mark Funk & Oysha, hhChris Liebing, Depo Magacin, hhHouse Party, Angels, Pariska 1, Following treatment, the complexion is ments become inevitable procedures. hhChill Out, Hot mess, Ušće bb, Sound, Ušće bb, 12am TH 11pm smoother, airier and brighter while the This time of life is ideal for treatment Travnička 3, 11pm FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 26 hhHip Hop and House Night, Hot 10pm skin itself looks fresher and healthier. with MESOFIBERS that improve skin hhAtmos Live, Sava Centre Summer hhSunglasses at Night, Sijuks, Savski h mess, Ušće bb, 10pm hDenis & Obule, Cantina De Frida, h Acne may also leave different types of tone and prevent its further deteriora- Stage, Milentija Popovića 9, 11pm hCan’t Stop the Rock, KST, h kej, 10pm Karađorđeva 2-4, 10.30pm hVesko Vučković live band, Sindikat, scars or purple and dark red pigmenta- tion. MESOFIBERS are suitable for treat- Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, hhSound fever, Sound, Brodarska bb, hhVid Marjanović & Progress Inn, Ušće bb, 11pm tion (spots) on the skin. These issues can ing the most sensitive areas, such as the 10pm 11pm Svemirska Kafana, Ušće bb, 11pm WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER hhAleksa and Darija, Jimmy’s, Uše also be successfully treated with a com- face, neck and chest. The results are hhAngels Night, Angels, Pariska 1, hhFlashdance, Lasta, Hercegovacka hhKišobran Party, Grad Cultural 24TH 1a, 11pm bination of Carboxytherapy, Growth effective, lifting the upper, middle and 11pm bb, 11pm Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 11pm hhIl Divo: A Musical Affair, hhPerpetuum Mobile, Bitef Art Café Factor and laser treatments. lower third of the face. hhIke & Prema, Club 94, Usće bb, THE 20S BRING THE FIRST SIGNS OF In order to improve the general qual- hhAngels Night, Angels, Pariska 1, Kombank Arena, Bulevar Arsenija Summer Stage, Kalemegdan, ND 11pm THURSDAY OCTOBER 2 SKIN AGEING. ity of skin, we also recommend treat- 11pm Čarnojevića 58, 8pm 10pm h Serbia’s athlete After turning 20, the skin slowly be- ment with GROWTH FACTOR. hhDJ Mirko & DJ Meeks, Freestyler, hhDJ Ales, Hot Mess, Ušće bb, 11pm hRetro House, Shake’n’Shake, Savski h hAngels Night, Angels, Pariska 1, hhZaokret - Kišobran warmup gins to lose tone, moisture, and vigour. kej bb, 11pm AFTER TURNING 50, THE SKIN Ušće bb, 11pm hhClub 2000, KST, Bulevar kralja 11pm Ivana Španović hit In this period the most important thing NEEDS TO RESTORE ITS LOST h party, KC Grad, Braće Krsmanović hhIke & Prema, Club 94, Ušće bb, Aleksandra 73, 10pm hTijana T All night Long, 20/44, h hClub House, Mr. Stefan Braun, 4, 7pm is to encourage cell regeneration (early VIGOUR. 11pm hhHouse Party, Angels, Pariska 1, anti-aging programme) and prevent de- At this time of life, all the skin changes Nemanjina 4, 11pm hhRasuolo band, Akapulko, Kej the runaway hhStreetriffs fest, Klub Sioux, 11pm hydration. Some may still be experienc- become more expressed and visible. oslobođenja bb, 10pm SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 28TH ing acne, scars and blemishes from their To achieve a rejuvenated effect and get Skadarska 40a, 9pm hhKoktel Band, Sunset Club, Ada talian fashion house Pal Zileri presented its newest hhParty, KST Klub Studenata Tehnike, teenage years. fresher, lifted facial skin, we can combine hhHip Hop and House Night, Hot Ciganlija, 11pm Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, collection for autumn/winter 2014/2015 at the BelExpo h th One of the early anti-aging treatments chemical peels and Botox and hyaluronic mess, Ušće bb, 10pm hhSneža Nešić i Nemanja Staletović, FREE COPY hBelgrade Banging, Freestyler, Ušće centre on September 8 . Ivana Španović, Serbia’s best 10pm is VITAGLOW treatment. During this pro- acid treatments. However, we recom- hhVesko Vučković live band, Sindikat, Akapulko, Kej oslobođenja bb, bb, 11pm athlete, was a star of the show as she hit the runway in hhNikola & Yabba, Freestyler, I cedure, the skin obtains all the nutrients mend the so-called FALLEN FACE treat- h Ušće bb, 11pm 10pm Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. hRnB & House Night, River, Ušće bb, Zileri’s elegant man’s suit. Brodarska bb, 10pm it needs and becomes brighter, more ment that gives best results. To make the hhAleksa and Darija, Jimmy’s, Uše h Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade 11pm hShake the Wednesday, Shake ‘N h vibrant. Skin tone is improved, fine wrin- face look younger and, at the same time, h hPanike Bez, Tijuana Svemirska 1a, 11pm Shake, Ušće bb, 10pm Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 hDJ, Shake’n’Shake, Savski kej bb, kles become less visible, and the overall natural and proportionate, we look at the Kafana, Savski kej bb, 11pm hhPerpetuum Mobile, Bitef Art Café hhVukašin Brajić, Čorba splav, Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić 6pm appearance is fresher and healthier. This face in its entirety and determine key hhParty, Povetarac, Staro sajmište bb, h Celebrities gather treatment can be applied to the face, positions that need to be filled with hya- Summer Stage, Kalemegdan, 10pm Brodarska bb, 10pm BIRN editorial team: hGuest DJs, Hot mess, Ušće bb, 11pm Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, 10pm neck, décolleté and hands, at any time luronic acid. In this way you can be sure hhLasta goes Hip Hop, Lasta - as Telenor opens of the year. that your facial contours will not change. Gordana Andrić hhMatinee party, Lasta, Gradski splav, Hercegovačka bb, This is also the period when the first [email protected] Hercegovacka bb, 5pm 11.30pm first mobile and wrinkles appear. In order to prevent Dr Biljana Đurđević is a specialist Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović MONDAY SEPTEMBER 29TH hhTo The Moon And Back: Live - Full them from becoming deeper and more dermatovenerologist, with a sub-spe- Phone: +381 11 4030 302 visible, this is the perfect time for BABY cialisation in aesthetic dermatology, at House bend, Shake’n’Shake, Savski online bank TRATTORIA [email protected] Botox treatment. LaDerma clinic. hhOld Spice Band, Resava, Resavska kej bb, 11pm Subscription & Distribution: PIZZERIA 24, 10pm hhGuest DJs, Hot mess, Ušće bb, orwegian company Telenor has opened its online bank, first Goran Knezevic of its kind in the Balkans, on September 10th. This bank allows hhFind a Boyfriend, Povetarac, Staro 10pm +381 11 4030 303 its clients to open accounts and manage their finances online, Address: Požarevačka 39 sajmište bb, 11pm hhNataša Bekvalac, Jimmy’s, Ušće bb, [email protected] with an application on their mobile phone, tablet or com- Phone: +381 11 2456 259 hhFriends Night, River, Ušće bb, 10pm N Nebojsina 8 Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. puter. Among the diplomats, businessmen and artists that attended Mobile: +381 63 7704 456 11pm hhKraak and Smaak, Bitef Art Café 011/3863-999 ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight the event were Nils Ragnar Kamsvåg, Norwegian ambassador to Serbia, Email: [email protected] hhEclipse Unplugged, Tramvaj, Summer Stage, Kalemegdan, Veran Matić, the president of Foundation, and actors Milica Zarić Website: www.laderma.rs [email protected] COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Ruzveltova 2, 9pm 10pm and Miki Manojlović. www.restoranamici.rs Circulation: 4,000 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 15 GOING OUT SPORT Lounging Spanish success with the raises hopes celebrities for Serbian

If you want to patrons are celebrities, athletes, actors, politicians and other public figures, basketball spend an evening there are no firm restrictions on who can get in. at Terassa Lounge, While you do need to dress up and have a fatter wallet in your pocket than After the Serbian national team won usual, Terassa is worth visiting. If noth- mingling with the ing else, the lounge bar and nightclub silver at the World Championships, offer a breath-taking view of Belgrade. stars, pack your Located on the edge of the Kalemegdan local experts hope that this generation fortress, guests can take in an incred- wallet and choose ible view of the confluence of the Sava of players can produce more high- River and the Danube. You’ll also prob- your wardrobe ably have the best view of the fortress ranking performances. that you’ll find anywhere in the city – with care. especially at night. Terassa is a lounge, bar and club all leksandar Đorđević, the After finishing first at World Champi- in one, although it’s really only a true coach of Serbian nation- onships in 1998 and 2002 and winning David GALIĆ nightclub on Fridays and Saturdays. al team, has said that af- gold in almost every European Champi- Open every day, it’s a popular place for urdays, it’s almost always more upbeat keeping with the “natural“ theme, using However, as said earlier, if you want ter the country’s success onship from 1995 until 2001, Serbia’s na- f you fancy venturing out to the coffee in the morning, or even lunch. commercial and progressive house. stone and wood mostly. to hang out on the terrace with the ce- at the World Champion- tional team has had little success since. poshest nightclub in Belgrade, The food is spectacular. At night, apart The interior is modern in design Of course, it’s expensive. Drink prices lebrities, you are going to have to bring shipsA in Spain, his next goal is to take his At the World Championships, the the Terassa Lounge might be the from on Friday or Saturday, it is best de- and a tad classier than most Belgrade are high and so are food prices. Plus, more money than you would take players to the Olympic Games. team ended fourth in Turkey in 2010 place to try. In fact, Terassa has a scribed as a lounge, or bar. But over the clubs of this ilk. It looks sophisticated you need to dress up. Even with a res- when going out to a regular bar or club. “Our goal is the Olympic Games in and 11th in Japan in 2006, while its best reputation for being such an up- weekend, it is a fully-fledged nightclub – and expensive rather than gaudy and ervation in hand, the club staff can still Another thing that makes Terassa in- Rio. I would like us to play against the ranking in the European Champion- Iscale establishment that most regular and one of the best in town. On Fridays overblown – an effect that many other deny you entrance if they don’t feel that teresting is that it is one of the few clubs USA there again. Our players will be ships was a silver medal in 2009. clubbers don’t even consider checking and Saturdays especially, you certainly prestigious Belgrade clubs have trouble you have put enough effort into your of this calibre and prestige that does not two years older and much more experi- Serbia’s basketball players haven’t it out. need a reservation. in achieving wardrobe. Showing up in jeans and a t- play Serbian folk music. That might be enced,” Đorđević said after Serbia won participated the Olympic Games in a After winning silver in Spain, the next goal for the Serbian national basketball team is to qualify for the Olympics. Photo by Manu Fernandez/AP They see Terassa as a venue for the Terassa is not a place for live music. If you haven’t figured it out already, shirt is not an option. the biggest deal breaker of all. second place at the World Champion- decade because they failed to qualify for urban elite, for celebrities, business mo- Almost certainly you will be listening to the entire club is basically a terrace sit- While it might not be a club for the ship, losing in the final to the USA. both Beijing in 2008 and London in 2012. of 12 players, six of them joined the na- Basketball coach Vladislav Lučić fantastic to watch them,” Lučić told guls, and fear that the average Joe - or DJs spinning some sort of house music, ting atop the fortress. The fortress itself typical club-goer, it might be an interest- The championship in Spain was However, many believe that the tional team after playing only in local also said that the team that won silver Tanjug. Jane - won’t stand much chance of get- no matter when you visit. During the is integrated into the design of the club, ing place to check out at least once, if you Terassa a major comeback for Serbia, as me- golden days of Serbian basketball are clubs. Now we have a base for good and in Spain has great potential. On September 17th, FIBA raised the ting a table at the lounge. Some of this week, you can expect more relaxed and with stone steps leading up to it and are looking for the most luxurious night- Address: Mali Kalemegdan bb dia, fans and experts did not expect returning. glorious days for Serbian basketball,” “This is a new beginning for a ranking of Serbia’s national basketball is true. But while many of the regular laid-back sounds, but on Fridays and Sat- most of the most of the club decor in life experience that Belgrade has to offer. Phone: +381 62 337 766 Đorđević’s players to get all the way to “A silver medal is a great result and I said Nebojša Čović, the president of Bel- young team that will be playing team by four places, placing it at sev- the finals. think it’s important to point out that out grade’s Crvena Zvezda basketball club. for the next five years and it will be enth in the world.

Memphis October n December 16th, the Sac- Stojaković told media that the years he any player during their Sacramento era. ramento Kings will pay re- spent in Sacramento were the best of He left Sacramento and joined the Sacramento Kings spect to their former player his career and his life. Indiana Pacers in 2006, then moved Americana Salon kicks off Stojaković and retire the “I want to thank Vivek [the Kings’ on to the New Orleans Hornets and Number 16 jersey that he owner] and the entire Kings fam- the Toronto Raptors, then finished th honour Predrag comes to Belgrade he 55 annual October Salon, the most important exhibition of visual usedO to wear. ily for welcoming me back for this his career at the Dallas Maver- art in Serbia, which aims to serve as a reference guide for contempo- Stojaković is the fourth player who the celebration, and I look forward to icks in 2011. fter Jack Oblivian performed earlier this month, Belgrade now wel- rary trends, has made its 2014 theme ‘Disappearing Things’. It will fo- Stojaković Kings have honoured in this way, after following the exciting times ahead During his NBA career, comes Amy LaVere, another singer/songwriter based in Memphis, cus on “collective and individual forms of remembrance in the digital Vlade Divac (21), Chris Webber (4) and Mitch for the Sacramento Kings,” he said. Stojaković won the NBA All- Tennessee. Former punk band vocalist LaVere, who is also an occa- era” and as always will present the best and most promising artists cur- Richmond (2). Sacramento drafted Stojaković Star Weekend Three-Point sional film actress, mixes country, blues and jazz to create her own Trently working in the country. This year’s October Salon runs from September 20th California’s Sacramento Kings are to “During his eight seasons in Sacramento, in 1996, while he was playing for Shootout twice and was the version of Americana with her trademark upright bass playing. The to November 2nd and is curated by Nicolaus Schafhausen and Vanessa Joan Müller, the fan-favourite small forward played PAOK in Greece. He joined the first European-born player to concertA is on September 19th at KC Grad and tickets are about €9 at the door. the director and head of dramaturgy at Kunsthalle Wien. retire the jersey worn by Serbian player more games for the Kings than any other Kings in 1998 and during the eight win an All-Star Weekend com- player during the Sacramento era and had seasons he spent with the club, petition. He was also the first Predrag Stojaković in tribute to his an immeasurable impact on the communi- he became one of the top scorers player in NBA history to start a ty both on and off the court,“ the Kings said in the club’s history and played game by scoring his team’s first career with the team. in a statement. more games for the Kings than 20 points.

Keyboard Festival Coffee Fest explores the showcases vintage machines world of caffeine If you are a fan of vintage analogue The first annual Belgrade Coffee Fest keyboard sounds, then the Keyboard will be held at Ušće Shopping Mall on Days mini-festival at Parabrod is where September 26 and 27, under the slogan you need to be on September 19th and ‘Open Your Senses’. The festival is aimed 20th. There will be a presentation about at coffee lovers as well as the beverage the festival’s exhibition of analogue industry. All the most important produc- keyboards, including Moogs and Arps, ers and distributors in the region will be followed on Septeber 19th by a concert there, offering a chance to taste a variety by a LP DUO, a group made up of clas- of coffees and teas from around the sical pianists Sonja Lončar and Andrija world. There will also be a barista con- Pavlović, who created the festival, and test, a Japanese tea ceremony presenta- on September 20th by accordion trio tion and concerts in the evening. Assahra. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, September 19 - Thursday, October 02, 2014 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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