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Men Dress Code in the Light of Turkish Modernization

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Men Dress Code in the Light of Turkish Modernization MASTER OF ARTS THESIS EUROCULTURE JAGIELLONIAN UNIVERSITY IN KRAKÓW (HOME) PALACKÝ UNIVERSITY OF OLOMOUC (HOST) AUGUST 2014 Between Traditional and Modern: Men Dress Code in the Light of Turkish Modernization SUBMITTED BY: Murat Tutar Student number home university: 1098043 Student number host university: 80043417 E-mail: [email protected] Tel.: +48 515638244 SUPERVISED BY: Dr Krzysztof Kowalski Institute of European Studies, Jagiellonian University E-mail: [email protected] Dr Martin Fafejta Department of Sociology, Andragogy and Cultural Anthropology, Palacký University E-mail: [email protected] Kraków, 04 August 2014 SIGNATURE ABSTRACT This objective of this study is to investigate the implications of Turkish modernization project on men dress code in Turkey. Understanding men dress code in contemporary Istanbul is the indicative of model for the rest of Turkey. Turkish modernization project is a top-to-down process. As a result, the implications of it are examined in terms of responsiveness and adaptation in the society. The framework of this study is formed in terms of political, economic and socio- cultural dimensions of Turkish modernization as well as mainstream predilection for clothing in contemporary Istanbul. Making sense of the current perception of men dress code in Turkey entails descrying relevant grounds through a historical process as well. For this reason, while analyzing men dress mode in contemporary Istanbul, specific regulations and changes in the mainstream society throughout Turkish modernization process are particularly taken into consideration. Key words: Clothing, Turkish modernization, tradition, modern, Islamic tenets, Europeanization 2 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to express my deepest appreciation to all those who provided me the possibility to complete this master thesis. I would like to express my special appreciation and thanks to my supervisors Dr Krzysztof Kowalski and Dr Martin Fafejta, and Euroculture Kraków acting program coordinator Dr Luc Ampleman, and director of the MA in Euroculture Program Professor Zdzisław Mach, you have been tremendous mentors for me. I would like to thank you all for encouraging my research and for allowing me to grow as a research scientist. Your advice on both research as well as on my career have been priceless. A special gratitude I give to the Euroculture teams both in Kraków and Olomouc, whose contribution in stimulating suggestions and encouragement helped me to coordinate my research on time without any obstacles. Furthermore, I would also like to acknowledge with much appreciation the crucial role of my classmates both at Jagiellonian University and Palacký University for the useful comments, remarks and engagement through the writing process of this master thesis. In addition, I would like to thank all of my friends who supported me in writing, and incented me to strive towards my goal. Also, I like to thank the participants in my survey, who have willingly shared their precious time during the process of interviewing. I would like to thank my loved ones, who have supported me throughout entire process, both by keeping me harmonious and helping me putting pieces together. I will be grateful forever for your love. Last but not least, a special thanks to my family. Words cannot express how grateful I am to my mother, brothers and sisters for all of the sacrifices that you have made on my behalf. Your prayer for me was what sustained me thus far. 3 TABLE OF CONTENTS ABSTRACT ..........................................................................................................................................2 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ....................................................................................................................3 1. INTRODUCTION ..............................................................................................................................5 1.1. Background and Rationale ......................................................................................................6 1.2. State of Art .............................................................................................................................8 1.3. Methodology ..........................................................................................................................9 2. STRUCTURING DISCOURSE AND CONTENT .............................................................................. 12 2.1. Modernization: Establishing a Correlation Between Variables .............................................. 12 2.2. Religious Aspect: Islamic Tenets .......................................................................................... 17 2.3. General Framework of Turkish Modernization ..................................................................... 22 3. TRANSFORMATION OF MEN DRESS CODE THROUGH TURKISH MODERNIZATION............. 27 3.1. The Late Ottoman Times: First Changes ............................................................................... 27 3.2. First Decades of the Republic of Turkey: A Complete Paradigm Shift .................................. 34 3.3. Men Clothing After 1950s: Political Symbols ....................................................................... 38 3.3. Men Clothing After 1980s: Globalization ............................................................................. 41 4. ISTANBUL: A MODEL CITY FOR TURKISH MEN OUTFIT.......................................................... 43 4.1. Regional and Environmental Factors .................................................................................... 44 4.2. Demographics ...................................................................................................................... 45 4.3. Gentrification and Economic Perspective .............................................................................. 46 4.4. Major Dichotomies ............................................................................................................... 48 4.4.1. Religious Groups ............................................................................................................... 48 4.5. Main Stream Society ............................................................................................................ 50 4.6. Localization of the Global .................................................................................................... 53 4.6.1. Are Tight-Fitting Clothes Pushing the Boundaries? ............................................................ 54 4.6.2. Modesty Matters ................................................................................................................ 55 4.6.3. Trend in the Street ............................................................................................................. 56 4.7. Production of Meaning ......................................................................................................... 57 CONCLUSION.................................................................................................................................... 60 LIST OF FIGURES ............................................................................................................................. 64 BIBLIOGRAPHY ................................................................................................................................ 67 ANNEX: INFORMED CONSENT INFORMATION AND INTERVIEW QUESTIONS’ FORM ............. 73 4 1. INTRODUCTION Being modern and traditional or the discussions regarding to the east-west dichotomy and their relation with clothing has always been contentious ever since the early years of Turkish modernization process. Modernization, as being of western origin, represents a problematic phenomenon for the non-western or/and traditional societies, simply because they had a different socio-cultural, intellectual and economic background. In the case of Turkey as being between east and west, the subject matter gains even a more complex dimension. It also requires a different approach in interpreting the meaning of modernization. This research intends to clarify this complexity from a different side. In this research it is aimed to make a sense of Turkish modernization process through its implications on Turkish men dress code and to sort out the state of adaptation and responsiveness of Istanbulites in contemporary Turkey. The framework of this study is formed in terms of political, economic and socio- cultural dimensions of Turkish modernization as well as mainstream predilection for clothing in contemporary Istanbul. Making sense of the current perception of men dress code in Turkey entails descrying relevant grounds through a historical process as well. For this reason, while analyzing men dress mode in contemporary Istanbul, specific regulations and changes in the mainstream society throughout Turkish modernization process will be particularly taken into consideration. Hence, in the scope of this study two main research questions are raised to be examined: How has Turkish men’s dress code responded and adapted to the process of Turkish modernization in Istanbul? To what extent does Turkish modernization have implications for the Turkish men dress? There are two main statements for the problematization: “Turkish modernization project has implications for the Turkish men dress” and “there is an adaptation and response of Turkish men’s dress to the process of modernization”. Usually, discussions related to the topics of identity, dress
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