THE LUXURY MAGAZINE FOR WORLD TRAVELERS BESPOKE NEW WAYS TO SEE WINE COUNTRY: WHERE TO GO NEXT

best of Summer 20 top villas with a BEACH view PARADISE FOUND: REDISCOVERING RUBONDO ISLAND A-list what’s hot now

tanzania portugal turkey South africa the CAUCASUS Malaria kills more than one million people each year, with 90% of them occurring in sub-Saharan Africa. 75% of these deaths occur in children under 5 .

our goal

to provide 18,000 nets to communities to help reduce the risk of life-threatening diseases

donate For every net purchased Ker & downey will donate a net. Donate securely on our website at www.kerdowney.com and Type “Nets for Africa” under Add special instructions to the seller.

together we can stop the sting of mosquito bites A letter from the president contents SUMMER 2013

explorations

Wild World Portugal shopping Katy Heerssen previews the paradise on Rubondo Island uncorked istanbul The Food & Wine High and low, haute and 20 Lover’s Guide hip, the ancient city is a Find hidden culinary shopper’s paradise With this issue of Bespoke Magazine, we are introducing a few new sections: in the A-List, we hand treasure with this pick the must-have experiences of the season; our Arrivals section brings you all that’s new in the must-have guide 40 travel world; while our friends and readers share a magical, photographic moment from a recent trip 30 with The Shot. 8 A-LIST This season’s must- a perfect have experiences In our expanded features section, dig deep into Rubondo Island, the largest island national park in great beach Africa and home to many plants and animals including elephants, giraffes and chimpanzees. Its pairing 13 ARRIVALS Martine Bury tours retreats “new beginning” started when Asilia, our partner in East Africa, began developing a camp there in South Africa's modern In search of the perfect, Openings, revamps and art and wine scenes waterfront hideaway the latest travel news 2012. Rubondo Island has always allowed the hard-core safari traveler to breathe the fresh air of this for your next relaxing isolated gem, but now luxury travelers can also partake in this beauty. Our own Marketing Manager escape? We’ve found 46 the best 20 for you 74 THE and Contributing Writer Katy Heerssen traveled there recently and writes about her adventures in ITINERARY this issue. 58 14 Days in The Caucasus

“The Caucasus” . . . what comes to mind when you read those words? Did you have to pull up a map 78 THE or has this destination been simmering in your traveling mind for some time? Travel to this region SHOT One picture worth has been something luxury travelers would not have considered until recently. Its colorful history has a thousand words, been marked by conquest after conquest. The Caucasus “new beginning” started with the fall of the captured this issue by writer-photographer Soviet Union in 1991. Ker & Downey has been sending select clients to the region for some time. Our David Swanson own Vice President David Jones’ recent visit to the region reignited our hot button to continue to push this timeless destination. Check out a perfect itinerary in this issue and on our website.

This month we also continue our efforts to create “new beginnings,” setting a goal to send 18,000 mosquito nets to the children of Uganda. Once again, Ker & Downey will match your donation. Just $7 will provide protection from mosquito bites for four children. Help us create a fresh, safe start for the children of Uganda. Donate securely on our website.

What are you waiting for? It’s GO time!

David Marek President

4 KER & DOWNEY At Ker & Downey, we are driven to “give back” at home and to the BESPOKE wide array of countries we help our clients discover. Whether it is assisting AIDS communities in southern Africa, providing mosquito nets to some of Africa’s most impoverished communities, supporting orphans through high school or helping to replant forests in South Af- EVENTS rica . . . providing the BEST in luxury travel is what we do, but helping contributors the less fortunate is who we are. editor Martine Bury What’s inspiring you lately? What’s inspiring you lately? Painting and repurposing Browsing Architectural Contributing editors JJ Watt CHARITY CLASSIC junk I’ve collected over the Digest with a really great KATY HEERSSEN years—everything from cup of coffee. david jones Ker & Downey was proud to sponsor the Home Run Derby during the inaugural JJ trinkets to jewelry to cloth- On your nightstand now: Watt Charity Classic on April 27. Hometown fans were treated to a display of softball david marek ing, and most of it from my The Things That Matter by skills from the Houston Texans players, and Ker & Downey President David Marek grandparents’ garage. Nate Berkus, In the Garden LeAnne Matula grabbed a photo with JJ Watt himself (below) after the game. The event raised over “I geek out about…” finding of Beasts by Erik Larson and PUBLISHERS $300,000 for the Justin J. Watt Foundation which helps fund after-school athletics new music. When I discover Death on the Nile by Agatha david marek programs in Houston and Watt’s home state of Wisconsin. something I like, I will Christie. david jones make it my soundtrack for At the top of your travel katy weeks. bucket list: People watching ART DIRECTION & haley DESIGN heerssen At the top of your travel beham from a street café in Paris bucket list: The Festival and visiting the Petra Trea- AMY WILLIS Contributing writer Fringe in Edinburgh, the sury in Jordan. Editor PHOTO EDITOR Pushkar Camel Fair and Favorite plane ride activity: running away to Trancoso, When I’m returning home, LAUREN MAREK Brazil. writing about my journey CONTENT WRITERS Favorite plane ride activity: and looking through all of HALEY BEHAM Uninterrupted hours of my photos. MEREDITH MOHR reading. CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS On your nightstand now: What’s inspiring you lately? Bossypants by Tina Fey and Trips to the Blue Moon, one RYAN CROSBY The Power of One by Bryce of my favorite quirky plant DAVID SWANSON Courtenay. farms and classic black and Life mantra in four words: white movies—I love their “I’ll try anything once.” style! At the top of your travel On your nightstand now: let’s connect bucket list: I would love to A Tree Grows in Brooklyn go to Thailand. Riding an by Betty Smith, Summer at on the web elephant along the beach is Tiffany by Marjorie Hart www.kerdowney.com on my list. and The Fault in Our Stars “If I could instantly learn by John Green. facebook amy a new language, I would meredith Two weeks + an unlimited facebook.com/keranddowney willis learn…” French! I love mohr budget – where are you graphic the sophistication of the writer going? England. I want twitter language. designer to explore all things Jane twitter.com/kerdowney LARRY FITZGERALD DOUBLE PLAY CELEBRITY Austen and have a good cup of tea while I’m at it! email SOFTBALL GAME Beach or mountains? Moun- Life mantra in 4 words: tains, definitely. Cool air [email protected] For the second straight year, Ker & Downey teamed up with well-traveled client Larry “ Work hard. Be kind.” and sunshine, reminds me Fitzgerald of the Arizona Cardinals to present the Double Play Celebrity Softball Game “I geek out about…”: televi- of life on the East Coast. phone on April 27. The event benefitted Fitzgerald’s First Down Fund which provides funding sion shows. I am absolutely 800.423.4236 to a variety of worthy causes including breast cancer research and children’s health and obsessed. wellness organizations. Celebrities Snoop Lion, Jordin Sparks and Gary Payton were Two weeks + an unlimited budget – where are you go- among the special guests competing in the friendly game while Ker & Downey Vice ing? I would love to go on President David Jones watched from the field. an epic road trip all across America! Beach or mountains? I Photography credits include: Properties: Tsitouras Collection - The TC Private Villa, can’t think of anything Christos Drazos,Hôtel Cap Estel Eze Côte d’’Azur France, Amanruya Villas - Bodrum lauren better than living in a se- Peninsula, Azura Retreat, Buzios Villa, Dos Lagos Lodge, Grootbos Villa, Laucala Island cluded log cabin deep in the Resort, Mukul Resort, North Island, Pezula Castle, Qualia Beach House, Royal Mansour marek Villas, Six Senses Zighy, Soneva Fushi Maldives, Soneva Kiri, Song Saa Private Island mountains. Resort, Vamizi Island, Villa at Red Bridge, Villa Tre Ville, Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel & photo editor Villas, Kubatana Camp, Sal Salis,Sanctuary, Le Quartier Français’,Royal Malewane, Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, Emirates, L’Hôtel Mont-Blanc / T. Shu, F. Ducout, L. Di Orio & DR, Rubondo Island, Taylor’s Wine Cellars, Vila Vita Parc, Bacalhau de Molho, Pastéis de Belém, Casa de Linhares, Tasquinha do Oliveira, Dom Tonho, The Yeatman, Quinta do Panascal, Quinta da Ervamoira, Quinta de Sant’Ana, Lokanta Maya,Tapasuma, Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts, Juno, Ellerman House , Stevenson, Buchanan Building, The Steenberg Hotel, Grande Provence Heritage Wine Estate, is art Gallery, La Residence, Birkenhead House, Singita Lembombo Lodge, Singita Sweni, Saxon Boutique Hotel, Lizard Island STOCK: Thinkstock, Dreamstime, Shutterstock Contributing Photographers: UFC fighter, Benson on the cover: Vamizi Island, Mozambique Bob Poole, Silvia Garza, Bruce Yeung, Ralph Lauren, Yeung Photography, Antone Crone In this photo: LaBryant Friend, David Jones, Larry Fitzgerald. Henderson.

6 KER & DOWNEY KER & DOWNEY 7 1. dive Sharm El sheikh Egpyt A-List Dive among the intricate coral reef systems and over 1,000 species of marine life that inhabit them in the Red Sea while staying at the Four This Season’s Must-have Experiences Seasons Sharm el Sheikh in Egypt.

2. CLIMB Huayna Picchu peru Climb 8,920 feet above sea level to the peak of Huayna Picchu in Peru for breathtaking views of Machu Picchu, the lost city of the Incas, and the surrounding Urubamba River valley below.

3. hike Gorongosa National Park Mozambique Hike through dense rainforest to the revitalizing pools at the base of Murombodzi Waterfall, discovering the diverse flora and variety of wildlife in Gorongosa National Park along the way.

4. TASTE Tea Tasting China Taste one of China’s most prized green teas Longjing, renowned for its high quality, complex aromas and smooth, refreshing taste among the terraced hillsides of a Hangzhou tea plantation.

5. sip Kilchoman Distillery scotland Sip a dram of whisky crafted from house-grown barley at Scotland’s landmark Kilchoman Distillery, while taking in the view of Islay and the sea lochs of the Scottish coast.

6. Encounter Royal Malewane south africa Encounter an abundance of leopard and the rest of the Big Five with the expert guides at Royal Malewane in the heart of the Kruger.

KER & DOWNEY 9 By Haley Beham & Meredith Mohr 8. 7. 7. SNORKEL Sal Salis Australia Snorkel at Sal Salis off the western coast of 11. Australia with turtles and manta rays in the turquoise waters of Ningaloo Reef, the world’s largest fringing reef system.

8. relax Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, thailand Treat yourself to the new Spa 101 Sessions at Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai. With options like the romantic Couple’s Thai Massage Lesson, guests get versed in the techniques needed to recreate blissful relaxation at home. Dig deeper and learn the benefits of Thai herbs such as lemongrass, prai root and ginger by signing up for a DIY Thai Herbal Wrap and Rice and Spice Body Scrub.

9. dine The Tasting Room south africa Dine without rules at Le Quartier Français’ The 9. Tasting Room in Franschhoek, South Africa. Executive Chef Margot Janse’s Surprise Tasting 12. Menu is designed to delight in the spirit of African storytelling, with courses revealed one by one, transforming regional ingredients into foodie theatre.

10. SWIM Gulf of Gökova TURKEY Swim in the tranquil, turquoise waters of a secluded cove in the Gulf of Gökova, the 10. narrow gulf of the Aegean Sea between southwest Turkey’s beach-lined Bodrum and Datça peninsulas.

11. SEe The Golden Temple INDIA Gaze at The Golden Temple, Amritsar, India’s impressive two-story marble, gold-plated house of Sikh culture before crossing the bridge over Amrit Sarovar, the pool surrounding it, to enter into one of the ancient city’s most sacred religious centers.

12. DRIVE Dades Valley MOROCCO Drive through Morocco’s scenic Dades Valley, with semi-desert on one side and the snow- capped Atlas Mountains on the other, to the dramatic, carved-out canyons of the spectacular Todra Gorge.

10 KER & DOWNEY KER & DOWNEY 11 FIVE YEARS IN A ROW For the fifth straight year, Ker & Downey has been named to Travel + Leisure Magazine’s World’s Best Awards. We count on arrivals you, our traveled clients, to nominate and vote for us each year, Openings, revamps and the latest travel news and we cannot thank you enough for helping tell the world how much Ker & Downey has impacted you through experiential world travel. We are dedicated to bringing more of the big, beautiful world to you with custom journeys that marry the luxurious with the authentic, and we can’t wait to see where you want to go next.

THANK YOU TRAVEL + leISURE MAGAZINE’S WORLD ‘S BEST AWARDS 2013

KER & DOWNEY 13 Singita Lebombo Lodge, South Africa Mandarin Oriental Pudong Lobby. Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg With opulent High Classical architectural design and a rich, storied past, the Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace in St. Petersburg makes its grand entrance as a 177 room-and-suite hotel. Two restored marble lions by Italian sculptor Paolo Triscorni stand guard at the base of an imposing stone staircase leading to the main entrance of the palace, just as they have for two centuries. “The House with Lions”, as city residents know it, was given by Prince Alexey Lobanov-Rostovsky, 19th-century diplomat, writer, art collector and nobleman of Tsar Alexander I, to his wife for use as an elite apartment house. It evolved into the city’s cultural center, later into the Ministry of War and housed a hostel, school and state architectural bureau during the Soviet era. While guests are sure to enjoy the building’s splendor and original details such as moldings, bespoke ivory-colored wardrobes and gilt features of the guest rooms, the amenities are all modern from mirrors with built in televisions to terraces with heated marble floors. Located a stone’s throw from legendary St. Isaac’s Cathedral in the city Aman Canal Grande center, the hotel maintains its influence with two Venice signature restaurants, an all-day dining lounge and the impressive Xander Bar with its walnut- Aman raises the bar in the iconic Italian city with a new location in the historic paneled walls and double-sided fireplace. Here, district of San Polo flecked with palaces, churches and legendary markets. guests can experience the royal treatment while Launched in June with the opening of the Venetian Biennale, the 24-suite resort sipping on handcrafted cocktails served with a is housed in a palazzo and consists of two five-story buildings and private gardens. Baltic twist. Fittingly, guests arrive by canal and are instantly transported to another world when the soaring ceilings, historic frescoes and reliefs and sweeping staircase of Photo Courtesy of Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts. the Reception Hall greet them. Beautifully detailed suites decked with spacious living rooms, a king-sized bed, personal bar and haute furnishings ensure the inhabitants are awash in comfort. Many offer views of the fabled Grand Canal.

Mandarin Oriental Pudong Photos Courtesy of Amanresorts Shanghai

Located on the east bank of the Huangpu River, Big Reveal the sleek modern structure draws the eye. Just as the hotel’s carefully curated Contemporary Nipped, tucked and fully modernized Chinese art collection—the most extensive in for the travelers that pass through its Shanghai—is bound to attract visitors in search of gates annually, the new, sustainable a luxe stay and cultural immersion. Inspired by the Tom Bradley International city’s futuristic skyline, the movement of the river, Terminal at LAX unveils 18 roomier carved Chinese window frames and Shanghai’s gates with plush waiting areas, a plane trees, the interior engulfs guests in serenity Great Hall for upscale dining and and intimacy with a soft color palette and warm, luxury retail shopping. Of the 36 reflective bronze tones. Rooms with waterfront boutiques, 27 are new to the airport views, a butterfly-themed spa, signature Chinese and 9 are total exclusives. All amount restaurant Yong Yi Ting and the sparkling Qi Bar to the biggest public works project in Los Angeles’ history. further that certain sense of place.

14 KER & DOWNEY Photo Courtesy of Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group. Photo Courtesy of WestfieldatLAX. Regent Bali Fresh Flights The “Island of the Gods” is now home to Regent Hotels & Resorts only Indonesian property. Tucked into ten acres of lush, tropical gardens spanning the pristine golden Chinzombo Sustainable Bush C amp Fly even friendlier beach, the 120-room all-suite and residence-style resort offers classic, family-friendly, Zambia skies and spruce up Balinese-style indoor/outdoor living. From early morning to evening, traditional gamelan miles high in Emirates The wildly luxurious brainchild of Norman Carr Safaris situated musicians create a hypnotic and soothing environment. And treatments such as Balinese A380 First Class in the game-rich Luangwa, valley of the leopard, elevates the therapeutic massage entice guests to go native at the onsite spa. Shower Spa. The first- global standard of eco luxury tourism. South African architects scheduled-first served Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens—the visionary designers behind showers are tidy and North Island Resort in the Seychelles and Little Vumbura Camp luxuriously stocked with in Botswana’s Okavango Delta—have created a low impact yet premium bath and body cutting edge design that also employs the skills and creativity of products. local craftsmen and artisans using local building methods. Six spacious, WiFi-equipped villas are built into a thicket of ancient trees and seem to float over the landscape. Activities abound for Main Events every guest’s passion from yoga and fitness lovers to those who delight in the thrill of the bush. Yo Picasso. Self Portraits Where: Museu Picasso, Barcelona When: Now till Sept. 1 Why: Get face to face with the first major Photo Courtesy of Regent Hotels & Resorts. monographic Photo Courtesy exhibition of the of Museu Picasso, Barcelona. master’s self portraits.

Fête de la Gastronomie French Cuisine Festival Where: Roanne, Avignon and throughout France When: Sept. 20-22 Why: Head to the streets and indulge in food inspired by the country’s iconic Terroirs.

Photo Courtesy Norman Carr Safaris

Semana Musical Llao Llao XXI Where: Photos Courtesy of Banyan Tree Hotels & Resorts. Llao Llao Hotel Bariloche, Argentina Sweet Retreats When: Oct. 12-20 Banyan Tree Hotels and Resorts has two distinct new delicacies from Sichuan cuisine to tea in the lobby and Why: Fill your soul with classical music in outposts, Banyan Tree Chongqing Beibei and Banyan cigar bar. Away from the flora and fauna of Chongqing, the idyllic foothills of the Andes. Tree Tianjin Riverside. The first is an innovative the Tianjin locale is in the center of the action, with 48-suite and 59-villa resort in the healing north hot 159 tranquil rooms designed to complement forays into springs of Chongqing, all featuring private hot spring the vibrant city. Guests get a taste of the country at the property’s River Café and Grill, which serves farm- Pablo Picasso Self Portrait, 1907 pools. Its spa offers unique and restorative wellness Oil on canvas 56 x 46 cm treatments as well as seven indoor and outdoor hot to-table specialties utilizing seasonal, home-grown, National Gallery in Prague organic produce from Banyan Tree Tianjin Riverside’s © National Gallery in Prague 2013 spring pools. Five culinary venues offer Chinese © Sucesión Pablo Picasso, VEGAP, Madrid 2013] “Happy Farm” in the Xiqing district. Photos Courtesy Norman Carr Safaris. KER & DOWNEY 17 THE FINEST explorations WAY IN THE “In wisdom gathered over time I have found that every WORLD TO experience is a form of exploration.” – Ansel Adams DISCOVER INDIA? Undoubtably, A Leela Palace. Acclaimed among the finest hotels, the Palaces of The Leela have redefined grandeur and Indian luxury, with their emphasis on soulful hospitality. Today, they are the benchmark around the world for travelling connoisseurs. Come, savor a richness that transcends the tangible.

The Leela Reservations Worldwide: 855 670 3444 (U.S. Toll Free), +91 124 4425 444 (Private lines), Email: [email protected] The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts: New Delhi, Bangalore, Chennai, Mumbai, Gurgaon, Udaipur, Goa and Kovalam. Future developments: KER & DOWNEY 19 Jaipur; Agra; Lake Ashtamudi (Kerala); Bhartiya City, Bangalore and Supernova, Noida. wild world

Katy Heerssen previews the paradise on Rubondo Island, a secret gem on Lake Victoria that proves as unpredictable as it is peaceful.

the island home of Asilia Africa’s newest addition, Rubondo Island Camp, is a bit of an enigma to me. One-part relaxed waterfront retreat and one-part field day for active adventurers, I found it so different from the traditional safari, jungle or island experience. Still, all three are a part of its identity. Uninhabited and unexplored for decades, Tanzania’s Rubondo Island is the largest island national park in Africa, and Rubondo Island Camp is the only property on some 170 square miles in Lake Victoria’s southwestern corner. Nearly all of that area is forested with sub-tropical flora, which is what attracted the attention of Professor Bernhard Rubondo Island’s Grzimek of the Frankfurt Zoological Society wild main road. and set the scene for the island’s unique Photo Caption population today.

KER & DOWNEY 21 In 1966 Grzimek released the first of four serene and green on all sides, transporting cohorts of chimpanzees onto the island, me through a tunnel of plant life. When all having been liberated from captivity passing from the cover of trees into in European zoos and circuses. In the sunny clearings, I felt it on my skin just years that followed, Rubondo became a as much as if I was on the open savannah, sort of experimental wildlife refuge with but without the smothering humidity antelope, elephant, giraffe and black-and- of Tanzania’s Indian Ocean coast. As we white colobus monkeys joining the wild- drove we spotted countless groups of born chimps and being left to their own butterflies wicking moisture from animal devices in the protected jungle. Over time dung in the road, each exploding in a the relocated conglomeration has thrived, cloud of color as we passed. The occasional with elephant numbers now estimated in bushbuck was interrupted on its warm the 70s and the chimpanzee population patch beside the road and bolted back having grown to around 40 from the into that impossible knot of foliage after original 17. Any habituation these animals staring at our truck for a moment. But the may have had at one time has been real stars of the show on a drive through forgotten as decades without the company Rubondo are the masses of birds. Over of human neighbors or tourists has let 200 species have been recorded within their instincts take control. the national park including grey African parrots, whose ancestors were released The drive was serene and green on on the island in the 1970s after being all sides, transporting me through a confiscated from the illegal animal trade. tunnel of plant life. Wildlife has the right of way on this island Nature has literally let loose on Rubondo, and can interfere with commuting. For from the species released by Grzimek to me, elephants and an immovable downed the thick forest left unbothered under tree lead to an unexpected jungle trek in national park protection to the seemingly flip flops. The same gentle giants from impenetrable tangles of vines, logs and the Serengeti that delighted me with mossy trunks. All add to the wild mystery their play are the overzealous landscape of the place. architects of Rubondo. Native fruit trees descending from groves planted by the The unpaved road that snakes across the pre-1960s island settlers are irresistible island can be a challenge to navigate. to the elephants. Their appetite for sweet On my jaunt through this jungle, guide fruit, plus their massive size in such close Victoria fittingly called the bumpy ride quarters, leaves a path of felled timber that a “Rubondo Massage”. The drive was often crosses the island’s narrow roads.

Opposite Page: A cruise at Lake Victoria at sunrise.

Right: Butterflies are a colorful roadblock.

22 KER & DOWNEY Lake Victoria is deceiving in its serenity . . . crocodiles and hippos can regularly be seen patrolling offshore.

KER & DOWNEY 25 Clockwise from top left: Nile perch are an angler’s delight; the lakeside main lodge; inviting nooks are found throughout camp. Sometimes a machete will take care of the problem, but when it doesn’t, the choices are either to turn around or to walk ahead. Forward we went on foot New colors are on display each to one of the highest points on the island, and back down to the waiting boat, surrounded by the hum of dawn and dusk, never in the same the jungle. Yes, it was unplanned, but if not for this combination and never failing to hike I would have missed hearing the calls of a troop make one stop and look out at an of black-and-white colobus and catching a glimpse of one of them from a distance. As on a traditional safari, expanse of land rarely seen in such exploring by foot on Rubondo is often a completely splendor. different experience from a drive.

The only way to get close to the secretive chimps Lake Victoria is deceiving in its serenity. The beach that live on the northern end of the island is by foot. at camp is beautiful, but it is not for swimming— Currently it is very rare to see them out and about, but crocodiles and hippos have claimed the waters international researchers are in the early stages of the for their own and can regularly be seen patrolling habituation process with hopes of making them more offshore. There are a number of nooks and marshy visible to visitors in the future. Walking through their coves around the island and on surrounding islets habitat with one of the researchers to see the signs where crocodiles and monitor lizards like to relax. of their activity is a testament to the success story of One spot in particular is populated entirely by birds. Rubondo as a conservation island. Here I see trees brimming with cormorants, fish eagles, sacred ibis and a variety of stork species. Boat The attitude of conservation translates into Rubondo rides through the national park are full of these little Island Camp’s physical structures, all constructed vignettes of shore activity. There is also a fair amount with materials sourced on the mainland to protect of World War I history in the area, including German the integrity of the island forest. Just eight chalets, trenches and tunnels that we accessed by boat. Anglers all with lake views, are a part of this paradise. Here I are at home here too, of course. The lake is stuffed not only have running water fed by the lake, but I also with Nile perch, with some of the largest on record have the luxury of three solid walls and a roof. The topping 220 pounds. Hence, our catch of the day is fourth wall is canvas and mesh, the perfect floor-to- considerably easier to handle. ceiling window to the lake and a reminder of the wild surroundings. Rubondo Island Camp includes a family suite that sleeps up to five. A honeymoon suite is set on the Baths are fitted with rain showers, double sinks far end of the beach to take full advantage of the with handmade soaps and refillable pump bottles panorama, enhanced by an additional outdoor shower. of shampoo, conditioner and body wash. I yearn to Honeymooners on the island get first dibs on the dhow replicate the modular concrete built-ins of the bath in and the private dining deck at the main lodge. A pool my suburbia closet back home. The bed itself is built surrounded by a wooden deck overlooks the lake for into the wall too, and the switches for the over-bed those who simply must take a dip, and a massage set lights and wall sconces are right next to my head as I to the waves from the lake is an ideal way to fill the sleep. Through the windows at night I hear the waves afternoon hours between excursions. of the lake crashing, tricking me into thinking I am in an ocean-side cabana. As difficult as it is to put my finger on Rubondo Island, I fell in love with this place. Its residents are an Anyone who’s been to Africa knows the sun does some unlikely combination of animals that have somehow incredible things to the sky. New colors are on display coexisted on their own for decades, and its atmosphere each dawn and dusk, never in the same combination is the definition of wild. A stay at Rubondo Island and never failing to make one stop and look out at Camp is the perfect continuation of a Tanzanian an expanse of land rarely seen in such splendor. On safari experience. Rubondo is in a category all its own, Rubondo it’s no different. The camp’s main lounge speaking honestly, to the adventurer within. and dining area have the privilege of overlooking the lake on two sides, making it the perfect place to watch the sunrise and sunset paint the sky with vibrant purple, orange, pink and gold. I live for watching the reflecting lake light up each day. Main lodge’s private deck; Spot an African Grey parrot; Camp lighting incorporates recycled glass and bottles. KER & DOWNEY 29 Portugal uncorked

The Food & Wine Lover’s Guide By Katy Heerssen

ortugal’s history is enriched by generations of trade and seafaring. PThis epic past has evolved its food into an eclectic art and the act of eating into an experience. Tracing the country’s culinary prowess from coast to countryside features encounters with vintners and chefs who pride themselves in putting the traditions and trends of its native cuisine on display.

Porto’s coastal view. KER & DOWNEY 31 House of Taylor’s and the Yeatman showcase the best in food and wine. Below: Dine alongside historic walls at Dom Tonho.

Sip and savor Vinho do Porto in the oldest defined Porto wine region in the world.

Port wine is as famous as any other monument in the Vinothérapie® Spa, guests can also indulge in wine in city, and you will get a taste of some of the best at a unique way with vineyard-inspired treatments such Taylor’s Wine Cellars. Now in its fourth century, the as a bath of red wine in a bubbling barrel-inspired tub. House of Taylor’s is one of the oldest Port companies and the only place to taste a rare 150-year-old tawny To indulge in a slice of history, head to the city’s port, which was discovered in 2008 in a wine lodge in historic center and local favorite Dom Tonho. Its the Corgo Valley, still perfectly preserved in an oak UNESCO-protected structures range from 200 to barrel. 400 years in age. Its closest neighbor is the Douro River, the very channel by which wine barrels were The Yeatman, a wine hotel in the Historic Port once transported from the wine country to the city’s Wine Cellar District in Porto, makes a perfect thirsty citizens. From the exposed stone in the dining launching point as the city’s address of choice for room and bar to the spooky tunnel in the wine cellar, discerning travelers and wine lovers. Under the visitors find plenty beyond the stellar menu to satisfy guidance of Executive Chef Ricardo Costa, The their curiosity. Don’t miss barbecued octopus or the Yeatman Restaurant features imaginative cuisine that Iberian pork paired with Mediterranean clams, two interprets the traditional Portuguese ingredients of hearty dishes from a menu that showcases the best of fresh fish and produce, presenting them in a modern the region’s varied delights from land and sea. style. The selection of more than 1,000 Portuguese and international wines are perfectly paired by Chef Costa and Wine Director Beatriz Machado. A seasonal menu keeps diners intrigued, and this summer’s favorite—a slowly cooked, glazed veal cheek pairs nicely with the Douro Valley’s own Quinta do Crasto Tinta Roriz 2009 vintage. At The Yeatman’s award-winning Caudalie

KER & DOWNEY 33 Indulge riverside at Dom Tonho. A sweeping view of the Atlantic completes the already inspired dining experience.

The famous Fado echos through the Casa de Linhares (left) and Pastéis de Belém satisfies a sweet tooth.

Take a culinary journey along the esplanades and LISBON through the streets of Portugal’s most storied city.

On a privately-chauffeured tour, stop in the shadow North of Lisbon lies Mafra and a countryside peppered of Jerónimos Monastery to sample a sweet treat with farms and vineyards, like hundreds of years old from the Pastéis de Belém pastry boutique. Born Quinta de Sant’Ana. Just outside of the charming in 1837 in a former sugar cane refinery attached to village of Gradil, owners James and Ann Frost are aided the monastery, this shop became famous thanks to by their international team in the crafting of boutique a secret recipe that originated from the cloister’s reds and whites, six out of the ten being single grape residents. The ingredients remain unaltered and varietals. Varied soils and elevations found throughout guarded by the master confectioners who craft the 24 acres of vineyards allow for very different growth arguably the most decadent custard tarts in Portugal. and ripening conditions vine to vine, and ultimately, a catalog of vintages that run the gamut from crisp When the sun goes down the wistful sounds of Rieslings to rich Touriga Nacional blends. A private tour Fado fill the winding streets in Alfama, the city’s of this unique wine estate pairs perfectly with a lunch oldest district east of its center. The haunting folk in the shade of the property’s old growth olive and fruit music of Lisbon mingles beautifully with the scene orchards, just as their carefully crafted menu of regional and cuisine at the Bacalhau de Molho restaurant delights complements their cherished wines. within the 16th-century walls of Casa de Linhares. Performers of all ages flock to Alfama to play this gig. West of Lisbon, the coastal community of Cascais has Travelers can easily get lost in their mournful ballads been simpatico with the culinary treasures of the sea while indulging in à la carte and prix fixe menus since the Middle Ages. Local favorite Porto de Santa that celebrate the region’s seafaring heritage. Try Maria is the best place to taste the tradition. The menu a shrimp cocktail served in a fresh papaya, grouper features a section dedicated solely to shellfish, and the sprinkled with fried banana and pineapple and finish chefs serve local, market-fresh standards like cod, hake the evening with the traditional Barriga de Freira and flounder with authentic flair. A sweeping view of breadcrumb desert. Delicious adventures can be the Atlantic completes the already inspired dining found beyond the seven hills of Portugal’s capital. experience.

34 KER & DOWNEY Alentejo

Take a tip from the locals and indulge in an unhurried experience in this rural province.

Far from Portugal’s larger cities, agriculture-rich Alentejo values a life lived slowly. While the quaint atmosphere of tiny restaurant Tasquinha do Oliveira fits with this region, its charm masks its gastronomic adeptness. Located in the historic town of Évora, originally a Roman settlement, the restaurant with just over a dozen seats showcases the typical Alentejo flavors. The selections here include more meat and game dishes than found on the menus in the coastal locales. Still, the breaded prawns with garlic are counted among the most popular bites. Generously seasoned with coriander and chorizo, migas with pork, roasted goat or lamb stew all satisfy. In fact, every item on the Algarve extensive menu incorporates plenty of fresh spices. Be prepared for generous portions. Wise epicureans would do well to reserve an ample amount of time to fully experience the offerings of this intimate eatery. Awaken the gourmet within at Portugal’s favorite resort destination.

Vacationers flock to the southernmost region of Portugal for the sun and the sand. Ideally situated, the stunning VILA VITA Parc resort delivers plenty of both, and its exceptional cuisine is a memorable part of the experience. Helmed by Austrian-born Chef Hans Neuner, the two Michelin Star restaurant Ocean is the crown jewel of the six gourmet eateries on property. His inventive menu includes selections that explore the whole of Portuguese cuisine from the farm to the sea, including tempting dishes such as avocado-crab cannelloni with prawns and black pork with mustard leaves and wild asparagus. Venture into the Cave de Vinhos, which is 26 feet below the ground and stocked with over 11,000 bottles from cellars across Portugal, Europe and the world. Culinary experiences are widely diverse across the resort. Enjoy premium grilled specialties for dinner and a show from the open kitchen of the Aladin Grill. Or dine at the Bavarian-inspired Biergarten, complete with a butcher and gourmet shop offering homemade sausages and wines produced at the VILA VITA’s Alentejo estate, Herdade dos Grous.

36 KER & DOWNEY Évora icons: Stunning monuments and culinary delights at Tasquinha do Oliveira. Creative wine barrel furniture is part of the tasting experience at Quinta do Panascal.

Make a pilgrimage to the Douro Valley birthplace of Port.

The Douro River flows to Porto. It is the gateway to Located on the Távora River, a tributary of the Portugal’s wine country, where the industry stretches Douro, Quinta do Panascal was one of the first back to biblical times. Among the scores of wineries wine estates to open its doors to the public in 1922. in this UNESCO-recognized landscape, two stand Since then the winery has achieved Level A status by out for their unique history and excellent vintages. the Port Wine Institute thanks to its award-winning offerings, most notably the 1994 Vintage of Fonseca. The Ramos-Pinto family is a clan synonymous This selection and many others can be sampled at with outstanding wine production and their legacy the estate—ideally experienced at a private picnic on continues at Quinta da Ervamoira in the Douro the grounds overlooking the vineyards, accompanied Valley. Getting to the winery is an adventure in itself, by Portuguese deli favorites such as deep-fried cod requiring a foray by Jeep onto an unpaved road. cakes and Douro almonds. The beautiful home sits at the center of the estate, surrounded by a pioneering collection of vineyards Though among Europe’s smaller countries, Portugal which have set a new standard for planting and packs a delicious punch for travelers in search of growing sustainably within the industry. Among unforgettable gastronomy. Its borders contain a their liquid treasures is the Duas Quintas Reserve wealth of history, fantastic scenery and the ideal blend Red which ages for two and a half years before it is of old and new. For foodies and culture enthusiasts ready to be savored. alike the country is truly one of the world’s best-kept secrets, and it’s ripe for a visit.

38 KER & DOWNEY Shopping Istanbul High and low, haute and hip, the ancient city on the shores of the Bosphorus is a shopper’s paradise.

BY Martine Bury

shopping spree in Istanbul takes time. Storeowners often offer chocolates, tea and Turkish A delights, tell engaging stories and invite customers to participate in an age- old dance of buyer and seller. With a rich tradition as a center for trade and retail that dates back 2,000 years, Istanbul is the ideal destination for modern day hunters and gatherers up for adventure. First, visit the illustrious city’s greatest albeit essential hits— legendary Topkapi Palace, Basilica Cistern, Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque. Then experience Istanbul like a local, exploring the Old City’s labyrinthine Grand Bazaar and stylish neighborhoods, like the enchanting Nisantasi, with its luxury boutiques and sidewalk cafes.

KER & DOWNEY 41 CASHMERE HOUSE BY ÍLYAS AKSU The cheerful and well- reputed boutique is neatly packed from floor to ceiling with a dizzying selection of sumptuous, authentic pashmina wraps, delicate silk scarves and hand- loomed cashmere items. The friendly owners proudly display a photo of Uma Thurman shopping there. KESECILER CAD.NO: 49-51 www.cashmerehouse.com.tr

LALE STERLING Hard to miss, legendary Where to shop Lale Sterling sparkles with treasure made by Turkey’s master silversmiths. The MOURATH PASHA family trade dates back to Stocked with a wide array 1936, with the Grand Bazaar of beach-ready pestemals— store open since 1959. From thin, often striped and picture frames to opulent versatile Turkish towels— tea sets, Lale specializes in at every price point, this reproductions of 17th and 18th tiny store also offers hand century silver arts designs. towels and pretty, patterned KAPALI CARSI CEVAHIR scarves in pure cotton and BEDESTAN NO: 254-257 high quality organic linen. www.gumuslale.com RESSAM BASMACILAR Carve out a few hours to shop SOKAK. NO: 34-36 and explore the Grand Bazaar in the heart of the Old City. DHOKU For lovers of contemporary DERVIS rug design inspired by the A dimly lit, exotic little Anatolian heritage, dhoku outpost, Dervis boasts a appeals to modern tastes tightly curated selection with handcrafted floor MUHLIS GUNBATTI The Grand Bazaar of home accessories from coverings in minimalist Dreamy and intricate Suzani pillows, hand-woven vintage textiles and cotton patterns and high quality tapestries, ornate vintage clothes and traditional Ottoman towels to jewel-toned wools worthy of chic design make and Central Asian textiles fill this arch-ceilinged, Sixty city streets, 22 doors, four main gates and over 3,500 shops mohair blankets and rich, magazines. KAPALI CARSI generations-owned boutique, wall to wall. PERDAHCILAR up one of the world’s oldest and largest covered markets. Although the hordes of tourists, tacky souvenirs and ethnic handiworks from TAKKECILER SOKAK NO: endless invitations to bargain can be daunting, it would be a shame to disregard serious exploration of this artisans all over Turkey. CADDESI NO: 48 www.muhlisgunbatti.com.tr 58-60 www.dhoku.com massive monument to retail. Not only is it the headquarters for buying gold in Istanbul, it is also one of the few KESECILER CAD. NO: 33- 35 www.dervis.com places on earth one can embark on a true treasure hunt for all types of luxurious bounty—from rare Byzantine antiques to exquisite, colorful Turkish textiles. Think of it this way, the Grand Bazaar is the perfect excuse to travel with an extra, empty suitcase.

42 KER & DOWNEY KER & DOWNEY 43 Nisantası

Drop into Nisantası’s bustling streets for Where to shop high-end retail therapy, trendy restaurants and the city’s most fashionable people watching. As the affluent residential BEYMEN Istanbul’s answer to Barneys New York, district and haute retail hub of Istanbul’s European side, it’s the place this luxury department store offers fine beautiful locals flock to for power lunches on weekdays and chic chocolate, homewares, bespoke fragrances, dining on weekends. In Turkish, the word Nisantasi means ‘marking independent Turkish designers and stone’. Also, it is the place where celebrated Turkish journalist Abdi trendsetting global brands such as Lanvin, Marc Jacobs, Paul Smith and Jimmy Choo. Ipekci was assassinated in 1979. Despite the grim history, today the www.beymen.com Photos Courtesy of Lokanta Maya. area is home to Chanel, Jo Malone, Prada and scores of international luxury brands. ETC. ARMAGGAN What to do with the rest of the day Located on Abdi Ipekci Caddesi, Nisantasi’s most desirable address, the seven-story The city offers many modern diversions to punctuate a day of shopping. store stocks exclusive collections of to- Not to be missed, Istanbul Modern museum is a refreshing juxtaposition die-for caftans, hand dyed textiles, jewelry to ancient ruins, gilded mosques and mind-bending traffic. The tightly- and luxury leather goods. An onsite art and edited Past and Future permanent collection is a succinct journey through Photo Courtesy of Tapasuma. design gallery makes this a must-stop for Turkey’s art history. Wide, crystal-clear windows boast stunning views of discerning shoppers. www.armaggan.com/en the Bosphorus. www.istanbulmodern.org s taY GASIA eat The perfect home base for exploring A truly unique and decadent jewelry store For foodies, Istanbul serves up glamorous dining venues that often evolve Istanbul, Four Season’s Bosphorus from a designer worn by Sarah Jessica into a sophisticated nightlife scene. Here’s a short list. Parker in Sex and the City 2, the items here is luxury lodging at its finest. Awash are true statement pieces featuring precious in natural sunlight by day, the hotel is stones and 24-karat gold. a calm, heavenly scented oasis in the Lokanta Maya Gile www.gasiajewelry.com storm of a vibrant city. From the lavish A clean, candlelit aesthetic and tapas An exclusive collection of carefully style shared plates are perfection at curated Turasan wines from spread for breakfast each morning, this low-key venue off the beaten path. Cappadocia is just a sampling of this decidedly Turkish style, at Aqua ARZU KAPROL Kick things off with a dry Turkish rosé hip venue’s culinary offerings. Opened restaurant to what is reputed to be Fashion designer Arzu Kaprol has made and the light zucchini-feta fritters. in May, the hotspot is an ideal place to Istanbul’s best spa, the contemporary a name for herself on the runways of the www.lokantamaya.com tuck into an inventive, elegant dinner decor is visible throughout what was world, at renowned retail destinations such or casual lunch, topped off with a th as Harrods of London, and on the much- Tapasuma once a 19 Century Ottoman Palace. sweet Turkish coffee. photographed bodies of celebrities such as Another great expression of the city’s Gastronomic excellence, an elegant MAGIC CARPETS www.gilerestaurant.com model Gisele Bundchen and actress Meg tapas trend, this modern resto on bar scene and flawless service and Awe-inspiring craftsmanship sets Nakkas Fine Oriental Ryan. Her Nisantasi flagship speaks to her the Bosphorus with crisp white walls Juno amenities are de rigueur, true to brand. Rugs & Textiles apart. With a breathtaking location in the reputation for refinement and attention to and soaring ceilings is a feast for the Great any time of the day or night, Be sure to request a Bosphorus facing Sultanahmet area near the Blue Mosque, this multi-storied detail. www.arzukaprol.net eyes and the appetite. Seafood and Nisantasi’s upscale-casual café serves room in the Palace Building. rug emporium is run by three generations of Turkish rug traditional mezzes are served with a expertly crafted crowd pleasers such purveyors. A stop here is as educational as it is one of the modern twist. www.tapasuma.com as thin crust pizza with locally made very best places to purchase the country’s most famous VAKKO 75 cheese curd and generous charcuterie handicraft. From antique to contemporary, every piece Affluent locals with old school tastes for Mikla as well as inspired, seasonal cocktails One of Istanbul’s most exclusive by the house mixologist. tells a story. Visitors are even given a turn at the loom. For custom men’s suits, preppy women’s wear restaurants and happening nightspots, www.junojuno.com those who take the plunge, Nakkas offers world wide door- and more formal attire revere this fashion retailer. The interior’s sleek, customized Mikla is the brainchild of renowned to-door delivery at a nice price. All of this sits atop a 16th seating offers welcome respite for weary Turco-Finnish Chef Mehmet Gürs. For Century Byzantine Cistern Nakkas has transformed into a shoppers. www.vakko.com a taste of his beautiful interpretations gallery with seasonal exhibitions. www.nakkasrug.com of seasonal fare, try the Tasting Menu with drink pairings from the ideal perch of this rooftop eatery. www.miklarestaurant.com Photos Courtesy of Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts. 44 KER & DOWNEY A Perfect pairing Martine Bury Tours South Africa’s Modern Art & Wine Scenes.

Already home to one of the world’s most captivating and most affordable wine regions, South Africa is fast becoming an exciting place to collect fine art. The eyes of the world are fixing their gaze on the continent’s largest economy, in search of something new.

Woefully underfunded by government entities, the biggest benefactors of South Africa’s creative output, until recently, have been wealthy local collectors and South African expats living abroad. In the last decade, this has been changing with the participation of the country’s artists and influential galleries at big international art fairs, such as Art Basel in Miami. For the layperson and the connoisseur wanting to see what’s taking root in South Africa, the hotels, resorts and winding vineyard routes provide the best entrée to a unique way of exploring the country’s visual artworks. Armed with this knowledge, I embark on a journey that pairs wine and art. Which, unexpectedly, reveals the soul of the country.

KER & DOWNEY 47 Artist: Wayne Barker Great African postcard A swank villa at Ellerman House. To Andy, Those Pictures On The Walls, CAPE WINELANDS Guy Peppin The thread that connects Ellerman House to the Cape Winelands intertwines art and wine, most tangibly through the artists like sculptor Dylan Lewis, whose work is exhibited at the hotel. South African born Lewis is one of the world’s most renowned CAPE TOWN sculptors of the animal form. His imposing bronze figures are born out of his years of exploration of how Living with art is far different from humans coexist with the wilderness both existentially contemplating it. At Cape Town’s landmark and physically. The concierge can arrange a visit to Ellerman House in Bantry Bay, I begin my his studio, aptly located in Stellenbosch in the wine initiation on a routine trip from my suite through Odili Donald Odita Installations country of the Western Cape. a hallway lined with paintings that span the Stevenson, Buchanan Building. The Steenberg Hotel. th th 19 and early 20 centuries, including some of We break for lunch at The Steenberg Hotel’s Bistro Shortlist: Cape town Art Crawl the earliest depictions of the then undeveloped Sixteen82 in the Constantia Winelands. A 20-minute Bantry Bay by South African artist Jan Ernst Cape Town is a standout in the contemporary art world, drive from the city through bucolic country eases Abraham Volschenk. Elegant and sumptuous, this attracting international collectors. Innovative galleries me into the scene. With sweeping views of False Bay, nine-suite and two-villa boutique hotel houses are the pioneers of up-and-coming neighborhoods like an emerald golf course and a pristine farmhouse in one of the most important and extensive private Woodstock and the powerhouses of the thriving city center. sight, the entrance to Steenberg Estate is a grand one. collections of South African art in the country, as It’s the Cape’s oldest farm, a storied place founded well as a 9,000-bottle wine cellar. Yet there isn’t SEE by a farmer named Catharina in 1682. She had five a stitch of pretention or stiffness. Beneath the everard read brundyn + gonsalves husbands, one of whom was killed by a lion. Legend 3 Portswood Road 71 Loop Street neatly manicured lawn of the terrace, Ellerman Cape Town Cape Town has it she summarily shot the murderous feline, and Contemporary Gallery shows an impressive the ava gallery Stevenson, Buchanan this is depicted in artworks around the hotel. We rotating roster of the country’s blue chip masters, 35 Church Street Building have two tastings, Graham Beck bubbly followed by like Jean Welz, an emerging talent. One would Cape Town 160 Sir Lowry Road the estate wines. Steenberg’s Catharina Red 2009 and never assume such a formidable collection of Woodstock worldart Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2009 are revelations, taut modern art rumbles beneath the relaxed lounge 54 Church Street and modern in this historic place. Bistro Sixteen82’s chairs that face the stunning expanse of the Cape Town sleek, open-floor design and origami-inspired hanging Atlantic Ocean. There are no secret service-style art marries the nature outside through floor-to- security guards lurking and no groups of people SHOP clementina ceramics, ashanti design the old biscuit mill ceiling windows. Farm-to-table standouts such as the competing for a view. In fact, there is no formal 133-135 Sir Lowry Road 375 Albert Road Sweetcorn Velouté with Charred Corn and Truffle and tour, and it is suggested that guests explore on their Woodstock Woodstock sustainable fish are only topped by the best sticky leisure. I appreciate the one-on-one time with the toffee pudding I have ever had. A serious collector of art but, mostly, appreciate that it’s merely there for EAT fine art, Steenberg’s owner Graham Beck selected to our enjoyment. the test kitchen, feature the captivating, brutally modernist works of the old biscuit mill The Steenberg Hotel’s wine tasting lounge. 375 Albert Road South African sculptor Edoardo Villa throughout the Woodstock estate grounds. 48 KER & DOWNEY KER & DOWNEY 49 On the road to Franschhoek, we enjoy a custom wine tasting at prestigious Anthonij Rupert Wine Estate. In this genteel country flanked by rolling green vineyards and misty mountains, the first sights that make an impression on me are two of Lewis’ towering bronze cheetahs at the entrance—a representation that is sinewy, fierce and raw. I take note that South Africans live with the paradoxical goals of taming the land through viniculture and farming and keeping it wild for the animals. Both are an intrinsic part of everyday life. At 300-year-old Grande Provence Heritage Wine Estate, the cavernous, contemporary art gallery and shop strike a personal chord with exclusive collections of South African ceramics, glass and furnishings.

In 1688, French Huguenots fleeing persecution settled in the valley. Granted plots of land by the Dutch government, many of the farms they founded evolved into the Franschhoek’s influential wineries. Considered South Africa’s food and wine capital today, world-class restaurants line the main street. Among them The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français is considered to be one of the top fine dining experiences in the world. The handiwork of genius Chef Margot Janse, our meal there is one to cross off the bucket list. As an added treat we visit is art, Le Quartier’s small, well-edited onsite fine art gallery and shop, thoughtfully curated by the much-lauded Ilse Schermers.

While the whitewashed, gabled 17th century Cape Dutch Architecture dominates the quiet blocks and farmhouses of Franschhoek, La Residence hotel is a jewel on a private wine estate that evokes Provence with interiors that playfully nod to the gilded luxury of Versailles. As we step into the glamour, we are greeted like old friends back from a too long journey—with sparkling rosé and warm smiles. End to end, the main hall is an unfolding open floor plan with velvet-upholstered couches and antique chairs arranged into cozy vignettes in front of fireplaces or window views. It’s a moveable feast of lovingly restored furnishings and the singular vision of proprietress Liz Biden, doyenne of hospitality and luxury design. The skillful mix of natural light and mood lighting lends an air of epic romance as it bounces off ornate mirrors and silk cushions. A grand Indian chandelier, which adorns the palatial ceiling, Photos from left to right: Grande enhances every detail of color saturated textiles and exquisite At La Residence the skillful mix Provence Heritage Wine Estate’s The Gallery; is art Gallery; La artworks throughout. If a living space could be a celebrity, La of natural light and mood lighting Residence painting, La Residence Residence would be a rock star. Even with the over-the-top villa; is art Gallery. décor, guests can really sink into the comfort of these rooms, eat lends an air of epic romance as it off of fine vintage porcelain, live with rare artworks and carry bounces off ornate mirrors and a glass of their private label estate-made Syrah wherever they go. Only the guests are precious. Whether it’s a six-course wine silk cushions. pairings dinner, an in-room massage or cooking class for two, the attentive staff makes it all happen. As Mies van der Rohe put it,

KER & DOWNEY 51 unfolding. A young bull elephant any bottles enjoyed or purchased SINGITA in musth has checked into the during a stay and offer future SWENI, tall brush near the entrance for selections based on preferences the night, and becomes the talk and interests. KRUGER of the town. Post-game drive dinner conversation revolves Singita Sweni and its highly NATIONAL around him. All the while, the stylized, award-winning sister wine flows. Throughout this property Singita Lebombo PARK adventure, I have fallen in love Lodge share a ‘village’ that with the bright bouquet of houses a wine shop, gym, spa Tucked into the almost Chenin Blanc. The sommelier and cappuccino lounge. The 40,000 acre Singita Reserve, introduces us to A.A. Badenhorst most impressive tenant is the intimacy of six-suite Singita "Secateurs" Chenin Blanc the Boutique & Gallery, filled Sweni is a welcome experience Swartland, and then moves on with a range of goods for sale after a week in civilization. The to headier options from the including rare artifacts, wood riverbank of the slow flowing premium cellars. carvings, vintage jewelry, custom Sweni River beneath the lodge is Ndebele dolls, Nguni hide rugs, the spa retreat of Kruger’s wild. As one of South Africa’s leading captivating black and white A crocodile languidly swims by. buyers of wine, Singita takes photography by area lens men A herd of hippos belly flops into A winding, scenic path with epic views of Walker Bay. the endeavor very seriously. On and crafts that support local the water, their deep, snorting average, a wine list at a property artisans. I want everything bass tones reverberating as they features more than 180 wines, I see. Singita commissions a splash. And a nearby pride of including limited edition and group of Zulu weavers to create lions roar after dark. Combined highly sought after vintages. intricate, colorful telephone wire “God is in the details,” and here I am a believer. Atlantic Ocean makes this the coolest climate in with the rich saligna woods Through the Singita Premier tableware used in the daily table The journey from Franschhoek to Hermanus is a South Africa. For good reason, the fynbos-sheathed and elegant earth tones of the Wine Direct, a service that makes settings. Art in its own right, spectacular, 90-minute drive that includes scenic valley along R320 is called Hemel-en-Aarde, furnishings, this interplay of it easy for guests to bring South these handmade pieces are a R44 along Walker Bay. Surrounded by pristine “Heaven on Earth” in Afrikaans. If Franschhoek is silence, sound and camouflage is African wines home, the staff beautiful way to bring the whole shores and dramatic cliffs, visitors flock to the akin to our esteemed Napa Valley, the area wineries a seductive cocktail, flawlessly helps to develop a wine profile experience home. region for the wildlife. It’s the best viewing spot are a bit less formal and more akin to the boutique executed. Still, there is drama for each guest. They take note of for the southern right whale during the winter vineyards of Sonoma. Dedicated to biodiversity, and spring. Many take the early morning, half Bouchard Finlayson sustainably crafts gold medal hour jaunt to Gansbaai to dive with great white Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blanc. sharks. Dolphins, seals and penguins make up the Up the road, influential vintner Anthony Hamilton remainder of Hermanus’ “Marine Big 5”. Russell has created a sensation with Southern Right Wine Farm’s Pinotage and Sauvignon Blanc When we check into Birkenhead House, we are vintages, reputed to have captured the aromatics immediately summoned to the window facing the of the fynbos, the plant species native to the Cape bay to watch the welcoming committee, a large Floral Kingdom. pod of dolphins playing in the waves. Perched on a cliff above a private beach, the 11-suite hideaway is everything a beach pad should be—easy, white slipcovered couches, a warm fireplace, candlelit evenings and a self-serve cocktail bar with board games stocked beneath it. As part of the Biden collection, interior touches such as ostrich feather lampshades and a seashell-covered wardrobe add panache.

The next morning a torrential downpour thwarts a shark diving expedition, much to my husband’s disappointment. What the sharks can’t deliver, the Hermanus Wine Route can. Proximity to the Birkenhead House. The wine cellar at Singita Lembombo Lodge. 52 KER & DOWNEY KER & DOWNEY 55 SingitaSingita Sweni, Sweni’s the epitomedecor is ofthe safari epitome chic. of safari chic JOHANNESBURG RISING STARS As our last stop, the all-suite Saxon Boutique Hotel, Villas and Spa in Johannesburg fnb joburg art fair brings the wine and art experience full circle by adding historical context. In these luxe Since 2008, the Joburg Art Fair accommodations, South Africa’s new story is told through collections of primitive woodworks, has pioneered to bring together modern stoneware ceramic sculptures and the contemporary pieces that hang on the villa top collectors, curators, artists walls. A series of graphite sketches by Dean Simon documents the Douw Steyn family, who and art lovers to broaden the own the Saxon, and guests who have shaped the hotel’s identity. Nelson Mandela lived here audience for contemporary and completed his book Long Walk to Freedom, in what is now the Nelson Mandela Platinum African art. Last year 10,000 Suite, after he was released from prison in 1990. The many portraits of him over the years art lovers attended the event, depict his journey since. During my visit, Mandela lies in the hospital, a reminder of the in addition to the participation frailty of the hope that holds a nation together. In the days of Apartheid, travel to South of 27 galleries from six Africa was unfashionable. The Renaissance of wine, art and conservation invites the world to countries. The happening see what South Africa can be. I get the sense the flower is just beginning to blossom. provides a unique opportunity to feel the electricity of Pool at Saxon Boutique Hotel. Jo’burg’s burgeoning art scene. September 27-29 | sandton convention center

three to try One of South Africa’s top sommeliers, the Saxon’s award winning Xolani Mancotywa recommends three bottles that, he says, “are a real expression of South African wine and a treasure to have.” All are available for export to the US by: Errol Westoll Pebbles through Cape Classics. www.capeclassics.com

1. De Morgezon Chenin Blanc 2. Raats Cab Franc 3. Kanonkop Pinotage

Voting Day 1994 by: Dirk Meerkotter The Procession by: TitiaBallot

Grand lobby at Saxon Boutique Hotel.

56 KER & DOWNEY

Villa baskets. Great Beach retreats

The Top 20 Private Villas With a beach View

BY HALEY BEHAM

In search of the perfect, waterfront hideaway for your next relaxing escape? We’ve gathered 20 of our favorite luxury villas from all over the world with breathtaking views of the water and all the amenities to calm the senses and leave you speechless.

KER & DOWNEY 59 south africa Conrad Pezula Castle Located on a private stretch of Noetzie Beach in South Africa, the Pezula Castle is a well-appointed private residence for the ultimate luxury getaway. A dedicated staff, including a private butler, attends to your every need, while a private chef prepares fresh, gourmet meals with local ingredients from the vegetable garden in the castle’s kitchen. Three spacious suites, each with a private bathroom and terrace overlooking the beach, exude luxury. Enjoy the dramatic natural scape of Fynbos, a shrub land endemic to a small area of the South African Cape, and sweep- ing views of pristine Noetzie Beach below from the sundeck. Other ame- nities include two living rooms with fireplaces, a heated outdoor rim-flow NICARAGUA pool and a private gymnasium. Mukul Resort – Casona Don Carlos On a secluded four-mile stretch of white, sandy beach on the Emerald Coast of Nicaragua sits Mukul Resort, the country’s first five-star resort. Opened in February 2013, the retreat is a testament to sustain- able building practices, utilizing local materials and completely integrating AUSTRALIA the structures to the land, including an 18-hole golf course designed entirely around the existing landscape. Mukul Resort also has a partnership with the Qualia Beach House local farmers in an effort to protect the water sources of the residents by Surrounded by the Great Barrier Reef, Qualia’s implementing incentives for small farmers to have water catchment strate- private beach house is set on 30 acres of garden gies in place to retain water, to leave native trees standing and to plant new landscape at the northern-most tip of Australia’s trees in barren areas. Hamilton Island. Designed to draw the outside in, an open layout with a wall of glass doors For travelers seeking lavish accommodations, enjoy Casona Don Carlos—the that can be completely pushed open effectively Pellas family’s private beach house—when the family is not in residence. The blurs the line between indoor and outdoor estate is an impressive two-story, 20,000 square foot escape, including six spaces. From the secluded pool that stretches bedroom suites, 80-foot palapa ceilings, a wrap-around stone terrace and the length of the dining room and entertaining a private swimming pool. With both indoor and outdoor living spaces, the area, enjoy panoramic views of the Coral Sea home takes advantage of its stunning location and has direct access to the and Whitsunday Islands. The house and guest Manzanillo Beach. Other amenities include a library, pool table and compli- pavilion each have one bedroom with en-suite mentary WiFi. Out of the guest home, choose to relax in one of the six private facilities, private sundecks, flat screen televi- treatment rooms at the Mukul Spa, enjoy a helicopter ride over the coastline sions and Internet access. or take an excursion to nearby Granada.

60 KER & DOWNEY KER & DOWNEY 61 ABU DHABI

Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel & Villas Royal Villa

In a city with a growing population and skyline that is constantly changing, find- ing a slice of solitude can be difficult. However, the Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel and Villas accomplished just that with its completely private Royal Villa— away from the hustle and bustle. Located on five miles of naturally protected white sand beaches on Saadiyat Island, the villa is outfitted with all the modern amenities one would expect from a five-star luxury retreat, including a spa- cious terrace with plunge pool and sun beds. Through the floor to ceiling windows in the villa or from your private terrace, see the unobstructed views of the grand Arabian Gulf. OMAN Six Senses Zighy Bay Beit Musandam, The Private Reserve CAMBODIA Rocky mountains juxtaposed with serene beaches define the inpiring landscape of Six Senses Zighy Bay. Song Saa Private Take in the dramatic views from the private villa Beit Musandam, nestled on a stretch of beach that looks Island Resort out onto the Gulf of Oman. Traditional Omani architecture lends itself to the design of the villa, with four On a secluded deck delicately perched ensuite bedrooms, each with outdoor showers. A wine cellar, private gym, yoga studio, swimming pool and over the South China Sea, a sun lounger live-in butler round out the amenities of the villa. During your stay, enjoy a tasty in-villa barbecue, relax in beckons guests to escape the speed of the spa complete with Arabian hammams and explore the tranquil beaches of the Musandam Peninsula. everyday life and find the tranquility that only Song Saa Private Island Resort MOZAMBIQUE can provide. Located in the Koh Rong Archipelago, Song Saa is Cambodia’s Azura Retreat first and only private island resort. It Unobstructed sea views, unspoiled white is setting standards in sustainability sandy beaches and total privacy character- and environmental integrity for future ize the Infinity Beach Villas at Azura Reteat building projects without compromis- on Benguerra Island. Designed to reflect the ing on luxury. Locally sourced materials traditional Mozambican style, the villas have define the architecture of the thatched white walls and pitched thatched jekka roofs, roof villas, furnished with Ploh linens, and were built by hand in partnership with hand-crafted furniture made by the region’s artisans, over-sized baths and outdoor showers. the local community. Interior rooms open The crown jewel of Song Saa is the two-bedroom Royal Villa, located on the island’s most discreet location, acces- onto outdoor terraces, maximizing space and sible by boat to the villa’s private jetty. Sip cocktails from the private pool and lounge in the sun on the expansive bringing in the outdoors, creating a tropical sun deck in total privacy of the thatched villa paradise. Enjoy the sight of breathtaking turquoise waters as they sanctuary of peace. From the daybed, watch merge with Cambodia’s clear blue skies. fishing dhows sail by while sipping on a cold cocktail. Bathe under the outdoor shower be- In addition to Song Saa’s dedication to eco-tourism, its founders Rory and Melita have established Cambodia’s first fore dining on fresh, local produce in only the Marine Protected Area, ensuring that future visitors enjoy the clear waters and vibrant coral reef for years to come. company of stars in the night sky.

KER & DOWNEY 63 SOUTH AFRICA

Grootbos Villa Grootbos Villa is the haven for travelers seeking refuge off the beaten path only two hours from Cape Town. Surrounded by pristine Fynbos in the Grootbos Nature Reserve, the villa is lo- cated in a prime whale-watching position. Enjoy 180-degree views that look out over the rolling waves of expansive Walker Bay. Available for exclusive use only, modern architecture draws guests in to relax in one of the six suites, while the hope of spotting a southern right whale keeps them lingering at the bay June through Novem- ber. A private guide accompanies guests on excur- sions, while a personal butler and chef attend to guests every need.

KER & DOWNEY 65 THAILAND Six Senses Soneva Kiri Spread over 102 acres of ancient rainforest and pristine beaches, the 29 villas of Soneva Kiri sit on the peaceful island of Koh Kood, 250 miles from bustling Bangkok. Designed to blend into the landscape the chic villas range from one-bedroom suites in the rainforest and on the beach, to the palatial six bedroom pri- vate reserve, with a personal gym, spa treat- ment room and swimming pool complete with a water slide. Coconut palms provide shade on the expansive decks while private swim- ming pools wrap around each villa. For a truly unique dining experience, head 20 feet up in the tree canopy for traditional Thai cuisine from the bamboo-dining pod.

MOZAMBIQUE Vamizi Island Travelers with a penchant for responsible tourism, eco-friendly digs and unparalleled diving will enjoy the simple luxury of the private villas at Vamizi Island, located in the Quirimbas Archipelago which is known for rich coral reefs and spectacular diving and snorkeling sites. Locally-sourced materials such as timber, thatch and stone make up the sustainable design, while the architecture draws on the multicultural influences of Mozambique. Standard construction practices were adapted in an effort to protect the natural environment. Spend the day in the clear blue waters with the abundant marine life then watch the sunset from the deck overlooking the immaculate beach. italy Villa Tre Ville For famed opera and film director Franco Ziffirelli, It is fitting that the historic home of the famous the idyllic village of Positano on the Amalfi Coast opera director would look out onto the dramatic sets the perfect theatrical backdrop for his former scenery of the Amalfi Coast. From the villa’s spa- home the Villa Tre Ville, now a luxury boutique cious cliffside terrace, watch the sunset over the hotel. Located on the winding Via dei Limoni, one stepped gardens and limestone cliffs leading to the of National Geographic’s most beautiful roads in the sea below while sipping limoncello produced in the world, the recently-renovated estate turned hotel region. Enjoy the smell of wisteria, jasmine and includes four villas outfitted with the highest qual- bougainvillea while sitting under a pergola in the ity Italian finishes. Still, Ziffirelli’s décor remains garden. Each villa is a masterpiece in its own right— virtually unchanged. The whitewashed walls, hand- individually decorated and supplied abundantly in painted mosaic tiles and original antiques add to every detail, such as binoculars and a humidor in the hotel’s charm, which once entertained the Hol- every room. lywood elite, including legends Laurence Olivier, Elizabeth Taylor and Liza Minnellli.

66 KER & DOWNEY KER & DOWNEY 67 FRANCE Cap Estel SEYCHELLES Originally built in the 19th century as a summer house North Island for a Russian prince, the historic Cap Estel mansion Nestled between large granite outcrop- was converted into an elegant hotel in the 1950s and pings within an inner group of islands in has been a top vacation spot of celebrities ever since. the Seychelles Archipelago, the 11 villas Located on a peninsula in Côte d’ Azur, Cape Estel sits of North Island Seychelles enjoy quiet in the heart of the French Riviera, between Monaco isolation from the outside world. For and Nice. The estate is comprised of four independent ultimate privacy, the sprawling multi- and equally private villas with breathtaking views of the tiered Villa 11 is tucked away in the Mediterranean Sea from tucked away terraces. Swing Takamaka Forest with nature-packed through the fragrant five-acre garden to the private views of land and sea in all directions. dock leading to the sapphire sea. It provides the perfect vantage point to watch the sunset over the Indian Ocean. A sunken deck and private gazebo, outdoor shower built into a rock and spa deck create a personal paradise envel- oped by white beaches, blue ocean and lush green vegetation.

GREECE Tsitouras Collection MALDIVES The TC Private Villa On a cliff 1,000 feet above the Mediterranean Sea on Santorini, the legendary island of Atlantis, sits the Soneva Fushi Tsitouras Collection Private Villa. With whitewashed walls and domed ceilings characteristic of Santorini The 65 villas of Soneva Fushi architecture, the villa is a marriage of modern luxury and old world charm. Chippendale armchairs grace range from one-bedroom suites to the sitting rooms, Picasso ceramics occupy the bookshelves and 16th-century oil paintings hang on the an exclusive four-bedroom Jungle walls. Watch the sun set off the Mediterranean Sea in quiet solitude on the private Reserve, sitting among a dense terrace before retiring to one of the three villa bedrooms, complete with jungle of shady palm trees on a Greek white marble bathrooms. large island in the Maldives. The resort offers diverse activities in- cluding swimming with bottlenose dolphins in the Baa Atoll—named a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve for its rich marine life—and snorkel- ing with manta rays at Manta Point. The most notable vantage point, however, is the Soneva Fushi Observatory, equipped with the most powerful telescope in the Indian Ocean. With the help of experienced astronomers, identify constellations in the night sky and gaze at 200 billion stars dancing in the distance.

68 KER & DOWNEY KER & DOWNEY 69 CHILE

Dos Lagos Lodge Accessible only by helicopter, boat, on horse- back or on foot, Dos Lagos Lodge is one of South America’s most remote luxury lodges. Located within 442,000 acres of the Cerro Castillo National Reserve in southern Chile’s legendary Patagonia, the country house has four bedrooms—each with wood-burning fireplaces and views of the two lakes, na- tive forests and the Andes Mountains in the background. A destination for outdoor aficionados, guests can partake in an endless list of activities. From hiking and kayaking to BRAZIL helicopter excursions, lakes, waterfalls, peaks and valleys are waiting to be explored. Return Buzios Villa after a full day to a fresh meal prepared by renowned Chef Ciancarlo Massarellione, Views of the ocean below take center stage from the modern cliffside Buzios Villa, located and sip on Chilean wine, perfectly paired to on a hill surrounded by coconut trees and overlooking Ferradura Beach. The floor-to-ceiling complement the meal. windows in the spacious and sophisticated five-bedroom villa frame picture perfect views of the landscape. Enjoy all the modern conveniences of home, including a computer with In- ternet access, private home theater, swimming pool and gym. Want for nothing as a full staff and private concierge attend to your every need. In need of a little action? The villa is located close to Rua das Pedra, the main street in Buzios, providing easy access to restaurants, shop- ping and entertainment VIETNAM Villa at Red Bridge TURKEY On the banks of the Thu Bon River, just Amanruya, Bodrum Peninsula one and a half miles from the beaches of the South China Sea and Hoi An Ancient Owing its comfortable year-round climate to its loca- Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, tion on the northern coast of the Bodrum Peninsula, the the Villa at Red Bridge is supremely Amanruya Resort possesses an incomparable view of the situated to take in all Hoi An has to of- Aegean Sea and pebble-beach-lined coast. Although they fer. The three-bedroom house is built in are not villas in the traditional sense, 36 well-appointed traditional Vietnamese style, featuring pool terrace cottages are tucked among olive trees, offer antique furnishings, local art, a two-story quick beach access and are furnished with four-poster library and a fully equipped gourmet beds, traditional Turkish “mangal” charcoal fireplaces, kitchen. If you prefer, the chefs in train- under-floor heating and hand-woven rugs and throws for ing at the Red Bridge Restaurant and understated opulence. Take in the views of the crystal Cooking School can also prepare your sea from the daybed of your private garden and cool off meals. Outside, relax in the pool or the with a dip in your personal marble pool. 5,000 square foot garden as you watch the river flow by.

70 KER & DOWNEY KER & DOWNEY 71 FIJI Laucala Island Resort For nearly a century, Laucala Island functioned largely as a coconut plantation, and then as the Forbes family’s private island retreat. Today it is home to an exclusive tropical paradise, with 25 villas spread across the island among the tropical vegetation and beaches, with generously apportioned indoor and outdoor spaces that transition seamlessly from one to the other. The island is essentially self sustain- ing. As a nod to its former coconut plantation days, perhaps, the coconut features prominently in the day-to-day operations of the resort. Chefs cook with the meat and milk, the spa uses the milk during treatments and local villagers sell baskets woven from the palm fronds.

KER & DOWNEY 73 KAZAKSTAN

RUSSIA

The Itinerary:

Days 14 in the Caucasus By Meredith Mohr

CASPIAN In a region of the world that still holds mystery SEA kazbegi for many, Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan are best discovered through a walk back in time. BLACK SEA signagi

tbilisi

baku TURKEY yerevan

estled between the Middle East, the Black Sea and snowy Russia, the Caucasus region holds a wealth Nof historical treasure, breathtaking views and warm hospitality from its inhabitants. This tour of Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan reminds us that the world still holds much that is unexpected. You just have to know where to look.

Over the course of 14 days, explore a myriad of museums, historical and religious sites, ancient caves with Stone Age inscriptions, remnants of Roman culture and urban architecture next to green and abundant vineyards.

KER & DOWNEY 75 DAY 1: Enjoy a welcoming dinner with traditional DAY 8 : Explore the cave city of Uplistsikhe, with cuisine in an Azerbaijan restaurant, followed by a houses, temples, streets and Roman theatres all carved folklore show in which elegantly dressed perform- out of sandstone in the second century BC. ers regale guests with traditional dance and music. Though it is known for fiercely cold winters, the city Learn to bake Georgian bread and sweets of Baku is a warm starting place for an adventure DAY 9 : with a local family in the Kakheti region, known for its through the Caucasus region. sprawling vineyards and local wines. DAY 2: Trek into Old Town, otherwise known Visit the Bodbe Monastery in the Kakheti as “Icheri Sheher,” and get a taste of royal life while DAY 10: region, home of the tomb of St. Nino, a symbol of Geor- exploring the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, one of the gian Christianity. Hear the clanging bells and look into most striking examples of medieval palace structures the waters of the St. Nino Spring, which legend says has in Azerbaijan dating to the middle of the 15th century. healing powers for faithful Christians. See other historical landmarks and hunt for antique trinkets and carpets in town while in Baku for the day. DAY 11: Reflect on science and medicine on a tour of the monastery of Sanahin, an important center of DAY 3: A day trip along the Absheron Peninsula knowledge in the area. Crossing over into Armenia, brings Middle Eastern medieval times to life, as the explore both the scientific and the religious heritage of peninsula is home to Ateshgah, the Fire Temple, in the country. Surakhani Village. Built long ago on a natural gas field, Zoroastrian believers traveled from as far as India on pilgrimage to the site and came to describe DAY 12: Visit the Khor Virap monastery, which Azerbaijan as the “land of fires.” boasts the best view of Mount Ararat, where it is be- lieved Noah’s Ark rested after the famous flood. DAY 4: Embark on a day trip to the Gobustan Reserve, an open-air museum with around 4,000 DAY 13: Make a wish by candlelight in the Yerevan neolithic rock drawings and inscriptions. Retrace the subterranean cave, more than 68 feet deep. Considered steps of famous Norwegian anthropologist Thor Hey- the “second ark to save humanity,” this historic under- erdahl, as he often frequented this site to study the ground shrine took more than two decades to complete. ancient evidence of Azerbaijan history. DAY 14: On the journey home contemplate the DAY 5: Wander the city of Tbilisi, the capital and rich history of the Caucasus region, with the memory of largest city in Georgia. Pass through old quarters of Georgian wine and hearth-baked bread still fresh. the city and the culture center, taking the old note of the famous sulphur springs along the Mtkvari River. Look up and see the examples of Georgian architec- ture of the houses with balconies and grape vines that line the path to Narikala, the fourth century fort with an exquisite view of the city and surrounding region.

DAY 6 : Make a modern-day pilgrimage to Mtskheta, the ancient capital of eastern Georgia, where the country’s conversion to Christianity oc- curred in 337 AD.

DAY 7: Mingle with sheep under an impossibly blue sky on a hike up to Gergeti Trinity Church, or Tsminda Sameba to the locals, in Kazbegi—the only town in the Khevi province just a few miles from the Russian border. From the church windows, see the paradise view of Mount Kazbek, 5,033 meters high and dotted with glaciers and permafrost. 76 KER & DOWNEY the SHOT One picture, one single moment, one memory worth a thousand words captured this issue by writer- photographer David Swanson

rom Barcelona to Botswana, local markets are my catnip. The pulse and pull of a place are revealed Fthrough a market’s colors, aromas and noise—and the foundations of the local cuisine emerge. This market in the Vietnamese hill town of Dalat seduced me to wander through row after row of vivid produce, while an abandoned upper level provided an unusual perspective on the action. I caught this seller mid-yawn, and his embarrassed reaction was an unexpected and privileged moment we shared.

David Swanson is a San Diego-based freelance writer and photographer, specializing in travel subjects. His explorations have taken him to more than 90 countries around the globe, and his wish list of future destinations remains ever expanding. KER & DOWNEY 79 Safari THE HIDE Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park best bets The Hide is situated within Hwange National Park, known for abundant and diverse wildlife. The Hide has justly earned its reputation as a great wildlife experience wrapped in warm welcoming hospitality and Victoria Falls is an award-winning lodge that one can rely on to live up to its ELEPHANT CAMP high standards. Victoria Falls National Park Situated on a private concession within The Victoria Falls National Park, The Elephant Camp is a luxury and intimate lodge under canvas with breathtaking views of the Victoria Falls spray, and the spectacular gorges which separate Zimbabwe and Zambia.

LITTLE MAKALOLO BUMI HILLS Hwange National Park Lake Kariba Nestled in the fertile Hwange National Park, Little Bumi Hills is Lake Kariba’s and Zimbabwe’s most Makalolo Camp is a the ideal getaway for lovers of beloved and iconic luxury safari lodge and spa with an nature and those seeking an authentic safari experience, awe-inspiring vista overlooking the massive lake that all exceeding all expectations for up-close game who experience it agree is difficult to surpass anywhere encounters in an intimate atmosphere. on the planet.

VICTORIA FALLS HOTEL VICTORIA FALLS SAFARI CLUB Victoria Falls National Park Victoria Falls For more than a century, The Victoria Falls Hotel has The new and exclusive Victoria Falls Safari Club affords a been the address of choice for royal families, statesmen, superior five-star experience with peaceful exclusivity in celebrities and discerning travelers as it occupies a fine a supreme wilderness location, surrounded by beautiful location from which to explore the magical wonders of panoramic views. untamed Africa.

VICTORIA FALLS RIVER LODGE Zambezi National Park Set on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River, the CHANGA SAFARI CAMP RUCKOMECHI CAMP Matusadona National Park Mana Pools National Park luxury tented Victoria Falls River Lodge combines exceptional wildlife viewing, fine dining, and luxurious Located on the shores of Lake Kariba in Zimbabwe, Shaded by trees on the banks of the Zambezi River lies accommodations with one of the Seven Natural Wonders Changa Safari Camp provides the unique experience Ruckomechi Camp, the ideal place for a breathtaking of the World. of combined game and fishing safaris on a private safari experience with a prime location near the Mana concession in the famed Matusadona National Park. Pools National Park and views of the Great Rift Valley across the river. Dive in

At Ker & Downey we help you behold the beauty of the world the way you always imagined. These experiential moments – tasting mint tea in the middle of the Sahara Desert, tiger sightings in India, or finding a little peace and calm in the Pacific – whatever it may be for you, you’ll know it when you experience it. And it comes standard on every Ker & Downey journey.

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