376 Great Gourmet Weekends in Australia Queen sl and Dimbulah Dimbulah Tropical North NATIONAL DAINTREE Daintree Daintree Millaa Millaa Atherton Atherton Mareeba PARK Tolga Tolga Kuranda Kuranda Walkamin Walkamin Port Douglas Cow Bay Cow Bay Tribulation Cape Tribulation Cape Yungaburra Oak Beach Oak Beach Malanda Malanda Innisfail Innisfail Palm Cove Palm Cove Gordonvale Gordonvale Cairns box, Nucifora Tea onsaleat local shops. isalso from thenatural beautyandrichnessof theland. Ifyoumisstheroadside to visit, withoutbillboards signage orovert dragging yourattention away first andtourism alongsecondanditmakes thearea a very genuine place attitudetoretaillaid-back istypical of anarea where production comes Nucifora Tea grown by Sybbie Nucifora in theadjacentfields. This for thehonestybox ontheroadside where youcanbuyfine leafblack rope skywalks strung above theroad. At East Palmerston keepaneye out dive, teaplantationsnestleinthefoothills andthelocalwildlife travels via World Heritage highlands. sectionof thesouthern Here waterfalls rush and proclaimed ‘capital’ of thenorth. before endingin Cairns for alookatthegourmet sceneinthisself- stopping off attheholidaytownsof Port DouglasandPalm resort Cove tropical fruit farm near Cape Tribulation thenreturns alongthecoast, the toDaintree, takesafascinating lookata leads ontoMareeba thenKuranda. From here thetrail along headsnorth Millaa andMalandato Atherton ontheKennedy Highway, which Innisfail andtakesyouinalooparound thePalmerston Highway through of primary production. Highlands, betterknownlocally asthe Atherton Tablelands, are attheheart liqueurs. While thecoastalstrip hasmany excellent restaurants, the Cairns and many areengaged also ingrowing tea, aswellfruit for making to grow coffee then tobacco. Nowthey have returned tocoffee production, Cairns anditshinterland, where they establishedtheirownproperties, first of Italiancuisineandculture. Many canecutters ultimately to moved north 230 kilometresof south Cairns. These townsare generally stillstrongholds wars,world initially toInnisfail andIngham, respectively 70kilometres and a strong Italianheritage, duetothemigration of canecutters, afterboth with itsdeepgreen rainforests andcloud-shrouded mistymountains. Ithas havewould tobe ‘exotic’. Itisanothercountry, even for most Australians, onewordIf youhadtochoose todescribe Tropical North it The from Innisfail runs through the Wet Tropics The following lookatthegourmet hotspotsof theregion at starts Harrisons, Port Douglas Moreton Bay bugs at spectacular salad of Nautilus, Port Douglas; beneath palms at bottom): Opposite (top to dining Festivals www.cairnsshangrilahotel.com.au Pierpoint Rd, Cairns; 1300733274; www.reefhouse.com.au Palm Cove; (07)40553633; small luxuryhotel; 99 Williams Espl, www.thalabeach.com.au (07) 40985700; (nr Port Douglas);Beach deluxe bungalows; Private Rd, Oak www.daintree-ecolodge.com.au Daintree; (07)40986100; leading ecolodge; 20Daintree Rd, The Sebel Reef House&Spa: Thala BeachLodge: Shangri-La: Mountain Spa: Eden HouseRetreat and Daintree EcoLodge: Where tostay www.edenhouse.com.au (07) 40897000; villas; 20 Gillies Hwy, Yungaburra; australianitalianfestival.com.au May; (07)47765288; www. fun; Ingham Showgrounds; www.feastofthesenses.com.au 0413 010625; festival; Innisfail; Mar; Champagnes ofFrance: Festival: Australian Italian Feast oftheSenses: www.reefhouse.com.au (07) 40553633; Espl, Palm Cove; June; House Restaurant, 99 Williams food, music and luxuryhotelonmarina; luxurycottages and food secluded world’s Reef

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Tropical North Tropical s d n e k e e W t e m r u o G t a e r G a i l a r t s u A n i 378 Great Gourmet Weekends in Australia Queen sl and Douglas Restaurant, Port at 2 Fish Seafood nahm jim dressing salad and a Thai fried cucumber and lobok pickled watermelon, trout fillet with a dish of steamed coral beautifully presented factory at Malanda; at the Nerada Tea plant Camellia sinensis Cairns; tea-producing to Ochre Restaurant, in dessert, and entrance exotic chocolate Above (left to right): a nameprobably familiar from supermarket shelves just before thetownshiptoNerada Tea factory, of free tastings. yoghurts, andthere andice-cream are cheese plenty bad for you. The dairyproduces avast array of milks, Demeter Biodynamicsurely so can’t itscheeses be tomorrow.arteries Mungalli dairyiscertified A Grade with a aboutyour andworry Quark cheesecake withyourfetaspinach inaspanakopita. Follow up cheeses, orleaven thedairyproducts withsome intoapiemade of threecounts andtuck different afternoon teas. Setasideallthoughtof cholesterol ideal spotfor andmorning homemadelunches teahouse inthemiddleof thecowpaddocks, an wrong turn. Then, withoutfanfare, there’s the of many cowsyoubegin ifyou’ve towonder takena after several curves andunderthedisinterested gaze because youleave thehighway onatiny road and teahouse Outof the Whey. Itisoutof theway too, at Mungalli Creek and Dairycalltheircheesery From here taketheMalandaRoad andturnright At MillaMilla, alongthehighway, further thefolks Mountaineers and MeatPlatter of bündnerfleisch his homeland, makesexcellent Nick pastaandhis preparation is skilful. tothe cuisineof Harkingback hotelsinEuropesothe infive-star a chef food Nick’s Restaurant and Yodeller’s Bar. Hetrained as keeping alive hisownexuberant Swiss culture at Nick Crameri, deserves aheritage also listingfor Yungaburra peoplesay some theboy from Zuoz, picturesque from Gordonvale. At beaccessed fromalso Cairns viathe windingand factory thatprocesses. milkandcheese farmers provide well-informed guided tours of the for breakfast andthird-generation andlunch dairy vegetables, meatsandcheese. A restaurant isopen retail store,part sellinglocalcoffee, tea, fruit, museum-style tribute to dairy-industry pioneers, and tea. Intown, theMalandaDairy Centre a ispart the Chinese rose, thatproduces bothgreen andblack Camellia sinensis–that’s thebush, knownas also world’s biggestprocessorof Australian-grown although youmightnothave knownthisisthe Yungaburra, atiny townthatisheritage listed, can free, guises. The dairy’s version of gorgonzola, the served inthe Gallo cafe invarious, mainly lactose- limelight withtheproducts of theirudders being Now thecowshavecheesemaking. toshare the couverture for andEuropean handmade chocolates introducedEuropean themtoSwiss businesspartner for 70years withoutchanging muchuntila Centre. The Gallo family hadbeen running adairy Nick’s Sausage Van. flavoursome bratwurst withallthe trimmings at (on thefourthSaturday month)totrysome each and Swiss bellsattheweekend Yungaburra Market accordion,’ says. Nick Follow of yodelling thesounds or maybe behappy for metobring outthe whether diners prefer would toeatinaquietplace, diner intoanunexpectedyodeller. ‘I canusually tell European and Aussie beers hasturnedmany asilent withschnapps,bar wellstocked grappa, and accordion music, avoid Saturday nights, although a mother’s eyes. Ifyou’re allergic tocowbellsand bringcoppa salamiwould tears of joy toaSwiss Take the Atherton Road to the Gallo Dairyland lunches arelunches served inthelicensedpremises. At serves over 50typesof tea totryandbuy, andlight lime celloandlemoncello. ItsBridges Cafe Tearoom mulberry, coffee andmarshmallow liqueurs anda macadamia plantationthatmakes plum, banana, Mt UncleDistilleryisabanana, avocado and growing. Ten minutes before youarrive there, the Highlands andthecentre of Australian coffee breadthe-premises –inawood-fired oven of course. soups, allperfect accompaniments to thebaked-on- Mediterranean-style vegetable dishes andbrilliant prepared fresh Thai, Greek and Tuscan salads, cafe cakesandbeautifully serves home-baked Cafe. Itsellswell-crafted sculptures wood andits afternoon teaattheTolga Woodworks Gallery & Highway andstopfor ormorning and lunch milking (3–5pm). appreciation of thecowsby observingthedaily a creamy texture. You caneven showyour lactose-free Gallozola, isamarvel of pungency with Mareeba isintheDry Tropics of the Cairns Travel from north Atherton onthe Kennedy

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Tropical North Tropical s d n e k e e W t e m r u o G t a e r G a i l a r t s u A n i 380 Great Gourmet Weekends in Australia Queen sl and Restaurant in Cairns duck breast at Ochre at Port Douglas; Salsa Bar and Grill work of ‘food art’ at at Port Douglas; a interior of Harrisons colours mark the Douglas; tropical Fish Restaurant, Port oyster shooters at 2 Above (left to right):

mango and port liqueur. Just asEuropeans and tastethewinesthatnowinclude citrus cellos, Visit theplantation, setaside yourwineprejudices 1999 from Kensington plumpjuicy Red Mangoes. Wineries madetheworld’s also first mango winein commercial mango plantationsbut itsGoldenPride operates oneof Far North Queensland’s biggest from very two different processes. interesting tocompare theexcellent results achieved don’t run over thehensondriveway. Itis a smallhandwritten signonthegate andmindyou an antiqueroaster by theirdaughterMaria. Lookfor by Bruno’ssorted wife, Luisa, andcarefully tendedin operationan artisan where thebeansare hand- Bruno Maloberti’s North Queensland Gold Coffee is Kingdom andEurope. At theotherend of thescale, very demandingmarketsintheUnited to some exporter system thathasmadeitasuccessful niche coffee andhasahighlyprocessing sophisticated Plantation produces more thanhalfof Australia’s Mareeba, theAustralian Coffee Centre ’s Skybury Just pastMareeba, theNastasifamily notonly compliment given halfthe chance). Julaymba serves (they wouldn’tto eatsome hesitatetoreturn the crocodile itseems only countrynowso reasonable stay) anditsJulaymba Restaurant. You’re in world-renowned Daintree Eco Lodge (seeWhere to goodies.as wellhome-cooked tropical fruits, honey, organic produce andfresh fish mangos, bananas, pawpaws, citrus, herbs, unusual you arrive inKuranda, offers great value inavocados, weekend Speewah Food Market, 6kilometres before grown, mostly usinghydroponic methods. The Herb Farm where a huge range of culinaryherbsis Kuranda. Here cookswillwant toshopattheVillage through spectacularcountrysideto north-east commercial scale. Aussie tipple, only here they are madeona France andItaly), thesefruit winesare auniquely firewaters produced withaflourish tovisitors in for years (thinkaboutthose homemadefruity have beenmakingtheirowntraditional fruit brews From Kuranda youheadway tothe upnorth Stay on the andhead winding so drivewinding so withcare. At thefarm youcan try has B&Baccommodation. Roads are narrow and River totheCape Trib Exotic Fruit Farm, whichalso your vehicle onthecableferry across theDaintree final excursion from here isto Cape Tribulation. Take taste thefresh falling rain when youbrew apot. A fine-leafed,so deliciousyoucanalmost delicateand can buytheteaonlineandinlocalstores. Itis and taketours butonly by prior arrangement. You Tea isgrown andpackaged here andyoucanvisit family has beengrowing teasince1978. Daintree language of the Kuku Yalanji) Plantation the Nicholas with rainforest mushrooms. several savoury dishesincludingafettuccini tossed foods. Lemonmyrtle isusedwithgreat success on range of freshly harvested Indigenous rainforest the restaurant isabletofeature alarger thanusual close relationship withthelocalKuku Yalanji people, all withaginger andmirin dressing. Becauseof its chilli, Vietnamese mint, of redpalm, onionandheart smoked croc inasaladof cucumber, honeydew, At Cubbagudta (itmeans ‘rainy place’ inthe this iswhere you’ll finditwith Victorian Black Angus always lustedfor areally good chateaubriand then Michelin-starred restaurants inLondon. Ifyou’ve flair tomeatdishes, thanksto years of experience in the owner-chef Spencer Patrick brings aparticular crème brûlée. duck, fillet of beef, oralime, coconut and ginger toensurekitchen itsperfection, whether itisfish, Steve watches Ritchie intently over food leaving the children are allowed, serviceisfaultless andchef is special-occasion dining atitsmostromantic. No don’t even thinkaboutthe prices, becauseNautilus in arainforest tropical settingonasoft nightand Clinton dinedattherestaurant. Eat underthestars here, mostfamously in1996when BillandHillary a star-studded history. The wealthy and powerfuleat Douglas. The first and finest restaurant, Nautilus, has the coasttofamous foodie townof Port only read about(seefeature, p. 384). many of thoseexotic tropical fruits thatyouhave Although fish is also onthemenuAlthough fishisalso atHarrisons, From Daintree youcandrive and towards south

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Tropical North Tropical s d n e k e e W t e m r u o G t a e r G a i l a r t s u A n i 382 Great Gourmet Weekends in Australia Queen sl and Centre at Mareeba the Australian Coffee Restaurant in Cairns; catching crab at Ochre in Port Douglas; eye- asparagus at Harrisons bottom): Opposite (top to feuiletté of morning. Co-owners JasonRowbottom and chef handle thelikesof mud-crab omelettes inthe food. Even breakfast isaspectacularevent ifyoucan and forget therules of everyday life asappliedto the breeze from the Coral Seathisisaplacetorelax fresh ingredients. With itsdrapes billowinggently in Mediterranean- and Asian-inspired preparation of and prizes sincethankstoitscontemporary map around 2005andhasn’t stoppedwinningpraise hasa resort Champagnes of France event inJune. often overlookedsomething by sommeliers. The several varietals thatare ideally suitedtothetropics, sabayon andred winejus. The winelistincludes eye steakwithgratin potato, peapurée, horseradish blini, pumpkinskordalia label anddukkahblack asroastsuch ras elhanoutlambrib eye withprune here itdoesn’t havechoices thefieldtoitselfwith mains are equally diverse andalthough fish rules challenge tomove ontothenextcourse. Butthe sardine crostini andJapanese beeftatakiitcanbea Vietnamese spannercrab salad, Mediterranean asteppanyakientrée such choices seascallop, 300-year-old heritage-listed melaleucatrees. With Australian –therestaurant issurrounded by where thewaterfront ambienceisunmistakably of The SebelReef House&Spa, seeWhere tostay) still amongthebestisReef HouseRestaurant (part diningexperiences.five-star One of theearliestand Cove centre andoffers isamajorsparesort many good food andathoroughly tropicalvibe. laid-back simple, there’s nosilver serviceorwhite linen, just Decoris lemongrass breast. oven-baked chicken baharat-crusted kangaroo loinandpalmsugar and where youcandineonthelikesof jambalaya, the timber-slatted louvres of SalsaBarand Grill , the enthusiastic locals, you’re infor atreat behind you are there. Ifyoucanmakeabookingaheadof And don’t forget while totryoneof thecocktails excellence thefood in2010so must beexceptional. chef Tommy Young aprestigious won award for Seafood Restaurant of town. intheheart Talented with pommesSardiniere andsauceBordelaise. red-wineconcerned istheoxbraise nine-hour cheek béarnaise. The signature dishasfar asregulars are beans, truffle mash, red winejusandsauce served withcaramelised onions, bonemarrow, green Nu putPalm Cove onthenationalgourmet Further again south ontheway to Cairns, Palm There are more seafood delightsat2Fish seals airline-approved foam chillers. prawns, reef fishandbarramundi. and packs Italso huge range of localseafood for sale, includingwild Cairns Ocean Products isclosetothecityandhasa Rusty’s BazaarandFarmgate Markets for food. surprise that food marketsabound. In Cairns visit myrtle inapannacotta withmango coulis. pungent lemongrass andlimeflavour of lemon carte, leave roomyoucansavour forso the dessert that utilisemostof them. theàla Ifyouchoose the region, excellentOchre hastwo tastingmenus you’ve beenintrigued by theproducts you’ve seenin and howtousethemincontemporary dishes. If keen tolearnmore about Australian food flavourings Craig Squire isindemandaround by theworld chefs awards sinceitwas establishedin1994andchef for corporate types. many Ithaswon national of theBaypart Village Tropical Retreat. food thatreally suitstheclimate. The restaurant is Australian ingredients –crocodile for instance–in the cuisineisBalinesethey often usenative Bali Restaurant & Cooking inBali, School andwhile the real deal, trained withallthechefs attheBumbu him toopen Cairns’ only Balineserestaurant. This is yearstwo attheSheraton Nusa DuainBalithatled since beginning hiscareer in Austria. But itwas his inleadinghotelsthroughouthas worked theworld and enthusiastic andit’s spot. apopularbackpacker International Beer Awards. Patrons tendtobeyoung upsilver andbronzepicked awards atthe Australian like brewers producing atwork thegoods thathave here. There are daily tours towatch thecraftsman- in thehighlands, you’ll probably findtheirproducts Blue Stout beersorbets. Ifyoumissedany distilleries in beer, from mussels sautéedin Woody aleto True steak, burgers and salads and, naturally, foods cooked Sky Brewery mealsof seafood, withhearty pasta, livers,chicken labnaandgreen harissa broth. feeding withZa’atarspicedsesamecrusted thesoul Salad, featuring of palmaswell localhearts and run through treatsastheMillionaire’s such with afresh Tasmanian truffle, leekandtalleggiopie they willgo tosurprise anddelight. Itmightbegin the eight-course tastingmenu showsjusthowfar HollowayNick describe theirfood as ‘exuberant’ and Given theamountof produce intheregion it’s no Ochre Restaurant isthemust-go-to restaurant Bayleaf BalineseRestaurant ownerKlausUllrich In Cairns, beertofood youcanmatch attheBlue

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Tropical North Tropical s d n e k e e W t e m r u o G t a e r G a i l a r t s u A n i 384 Great Gourmet Weekends in Australia Queen sl and Tropical fruits tartness thatmaytartness wellmakeyoufeel likedancingfor joy. with arush of delicatesweetnessonthepalateandfinishes withalemony Itisorange-skinnedAnd theachacha? anditspearly white fleshstarts in theregion, incakes, particularly desserts, sauces, custards andcocktails. Exotic Fruit Farm. Otherwise, lookfor theuseof thesefruits atrestaurants grow. of Daintree Ifpossiblemakethatjourney north tothe Cape Trib Australian it’s citiesso avisittoseeandtrythemwhere wellworth they Many varieties are toodelicatetoshipcapitalcitymarketsinfar away hardly inthelistof aletteroffruit thealphabetuntouched growing here. caramel orbrown sugar taste)andright downtothevanilla bean, there’s suggestive of pineapple)tothesapadilla (ayellow-brown fleshwitha the abiutoavocado, thesalak(itscreamy yellowfleshhasaflavour casimiroa; zapoteblancoinitsnative Mexico)likevanilla custard. From persimmon)puddingandthewhiteblack tasteslikechocolate sapote(or tastes. orwhite? Doyoulikeyoursapoteblack varietyThe black (aka in thisfascinating field of produce that often looksasspectacularit about fruit. Tropical North Queensland istheplacetoeducateyourself is aLatin If youthinkthatachacha American dance, youhave alottolearn From blanco theabiutozapote EATERIES (07) 40591880; www.nunu.com.au www.2fishrestaurant.com.au Port Douglas; (07)40996350; Out oftheWhey: Ochre Restaurant: Nu Nu: Nick’s Restaurant andYodeller’s Bar: Nautilus: Centre: Malanda Dairy Julaymba Restaurant: Harrisons: Bridges Cafe Tearoom: Blue Sky Brewery: Bayleaf BalineseRestaurant: 2 Fish Seafood Restaurant: Contacts forTropical North www.bayvillage.com.au St, Cairns; (07)40514622; Mungalli Creek Dairy Distilleries/Mt UncleDistillery Distilleries/Mt www.nautilus-restaurant.com.au (07) 40995330; www.daintree-ecolodge.com.au (07) 40986100or1800808010; Lodge, 20Daintree Rd, Daintree; www.nicksrestaurant.com.au 33 Gillies Hwy, Yungaburra; (07)40953330; www.harrisonsrestaurant.com.au (07) 40994011; www.ochrerestaurant.com.au (07) 40510100; 123 Williams Espl, Palm Cove; 17Murphy St, Port Douglas; 22 Wharf St, Port Douglas; seeGourmetProduce/ seeBreweries 43ShieldsSt, Cairns; Daintree Eco seeWineries/ seeStores Wharf St, 227Lake

Kuranda); Sun; (07)40930361 www.reefhouse.com.au Palm Cove; (07)40553633; Pierpoint Rd, Cairns; Sat (07) 40932194; www.skybury.com.au Plantation, 94–136IvicevicRd, Mareeba; www.cairnsoceanproducts.com.au Portsmith; (07)40313277; Cairns OceanProducts: Australian Coffee Centre: GOURMET PRODUCE Yungaburra Market: Speewah Food Market: Rusty’s Market: Bazaar Farmgate Markets: MARKETS Centre: Malanda Dairy STORES Tolga Woodworks &Cafe: Gallery Salsa BarandGrill: Reef HouseRestaurant: www.salsaportdouglas.com.au Douglas; (07)40994922; www.tolgawoodworks.com.au Kennedy Hwy, Tolga; (07)40954488; Malanda; (07)40951234 www.yungaburramarkets.com month,Sat each morning; (07)40952111; www.rustysmarkets.com.au (07) 40515100; Cairns; Fri morning, Sat–Sun; PierShopping Centre, 26 Wharf St, Port 19EachamRd; 4th Speewah (nr 99 Williams Espl, Comport St, 64Sheridan St, 8James St, Skybury

(07) 40932269; www.nqgoldcoffee.com.au Wheelbarrow Way, Dimbulah; 0418 456309; www.nuciforatea.com.au Palmerston, Innisfail; (07)40618151or www.mtuncle.com Walkamin; (07)40868008; www.neradatea.com.au Allyn Rd, Malanda; (07)40968328; Blue Sky Brewery: BREWERIES Mt Uncle Distillery: Golden Pride Wineries: WINERIES/DISTILLERIES Village HerbFarm: Nucifora Tea: North QueenslandGoldCoffee: Nerada Tea: Mungalli Creek Dairy: Centre: Gallo Dairyland Daintree Tea: Cape Trib ExoticFruit Farm: www.gallodairyland.com.au Atherton; (07)40952388; www.mungallicreekdairy.com.au Millaa Millaa; (07)40972232; Bay; (07)40989139; www.daintreetea.com www.goldendrop.com.au Mareeba; (07)40932750; www.villageherb.com.au Kuranda; (07)40937482; (07) 40980057; www.capetrib.com.au Nicole Dr, Cape Tribulation; www.blueskybrewery.com.au (07) 40570500; . Visitor Centre, 933 Glen 2402Palmerston Hwy, East Cape Tribulation Rd, Cow 34–42LakeSt, Cairns; 8 Green HillsRd; 1819 Chewko Rd, 251Brooks Rd, 227 Bilwon Rd, 227Bilwon MalandaRd, Lot5

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