At two steps from the sea THE VALLEYS BETWEEN ANDORA AND The other Riviera Where, how, when enjoy a holiday in the greenery of the Ligurian Riviera delle Palme ree copy f e natur gastronomy itineraries tastes hospitality the other riviera The valleys between Andora and Ceriale It is difficult to resist the call of the summer sea, which seems to have been created specially to refresh the body and spirit of us urbanized “western people”, to wash away the stress accumulated during the winter months. It is inevitable, then, that the clear sea of the Riviera delle Palme, with its beautiful coast of sandy beaches and rocks studded with maritime pines, each summer attracts fond friends and numerous tourists. The Riviera delle Palme, nevertheless, goes further: to the enchanting hinterland, close to the sea and very convenient to reach, rich in environmental and cultural quality and the ideal destination for those who wish to alternate their holiday between the blue of the sea and the green of the hills. It is sufficient to leave the motorway behind and, after some turns and a few kilometres, you find yourself in the Other Riviera. 2 The Mèrula Valley The Lerrone Valley The Arroscia Valley The Pennavaire Valley Valley Neva The ANDORA ALASSIO CERIALE LAIGUEGLIA ALBENGA 3 the other riviera The Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley To your left the sea and to your right... The motorway tollgate of Albenga acts as a border between the coastal plain and the network of the four valleys where water from the Maritime Alps flows down to the river Centa and the city. Towards the sea lies Albenga with its Roman and Medieval old centre, the agricultural plain, a beach with bathing establishment, hotels and campsites, which join the towns of Ceriale at one side and Alassio at the other. An upwards direction takes you towards the Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley, which rise towards the limestone crest of Mount Galero and the San Bernardo pass. Beyond them, the Tànaro Valley extends towards Piedmont. CISANO SUL NEVA Golden A bell tower among Past the motorway tollgate you treasures ancient alleys enter Provincial Road no. 582 (former State Road 582) that The Pigato DOC A castle among quickly leads to (Controlled designation olive groves Cisano sul Neva, a of Origin) and other stop on the “Road wines of Cisano can be The hamlet of of Wine and Oil”. tasted at the winery of Conscente is For wine, this is Felice Noberasco, at the dominated by the above all the land beginning of the town perfectly preserved of Pigato DOC, to centre and open 15th century castle of which a festival is Saturday afternoon and the Del Carretto dedicated in nearby Sàlea in by appointment, or at family, built high September. Further inland and Felice Michero in upon the hill. leaving the main road you enter the via Moraire and the old centre of Cisano, with the Poderi Bado Crosi farm Romanesque bell tower of the in via Benessea. 17th century church of Santa Maria To find the best olive Maddalena. Park in the square in oils of the area around front of the town hall, Piazza del Cisano you can visit Municipio, in order to stroll Frantoio dei Fratelli among the alleys. A short Pozzo in Conscente, distance away from the with the great wheel centre is the of its water- mill in Romanesque perfect working order. church of San Calogero, 4 originating from the 11th century. ALBENGA Cisano Zuccarello Castelvecchio Erli Castelbianco Nasino Two steps away from the sea Cisano sul Neva 50 metres asl 4 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga 9 km from the sea Zuccarello 130 metres asl 6 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga 11 km from the sea Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena 430 metres asl 16 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga 19 km from the sea Erli 280 metres asl 13 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga 18 km from the sea Everyone to the table! Castelbianco The first restaurant for those who arrive from Albenga is 300 metres asl 10 km from tollgate A10 Torre Pernice, set on a hill a little difficult to locate from the of Albenga road: it offers hand-made pasta and fresh fish dishes washed 15 km from the sea down by wine produced in the adjacent hills. Nasino Meeting is easy to find and convenient for trips to the shopping 360 metres asl centres that surround it. 14 km from tollgate A10 Meat and fresh fish, vegetable ravioli and take-away dishes are of Albenga 19 km from the sea offered by Ristorante Bar Sport situated in the centre and by Bar Neva. Along the ring road you can find Ristorante della Fenice, situated inside an old-time country courtyard and facing a beautiful ancient fountain; torte di verdure (vegetable pies) and tagliolini pasta and ravioli are the house specialities. In Conscente there is Brasserie U Rundò, close to the sole water olive-press still in activity in Liguria. U Rundò is found in via Gumbo, which takes its name from the gumbi (olive presses). In Martinetto there is Ristorante le Cascate, meaning the cascades restaurant and so-called because of the small but enchanting canyon that the small stream excavated in the rock nearby. Green pinewoods and meadows set the scene at Pizzeria Braceria Il Peperoncino Rosso in Cènesi. 5 the other riviera Cisano It was the The Poggio year 1280... Grande Naturalistic ...when Cisano was Area founded by the city-state of Albenga Cisano lies on the to contrast the western boundary of the Poggio Grande expansionism of the Naturalistic Area, which extends towards marquis of Clavesana, Toirano and the town of Borghetto Santo Spirito who dominated the in a typically Ligurian landscape of terraced slopes, cultivated or recaptured by woods, olive nearby Pennavaire th Valley. groves, Mediterranean maquis and 19 century military forts. All with a sea view. On foot around Cisano From the centre of Cisano you can arrive at the panoramic holy shrine of Santa Croce, passing by Pizzo Ceresa and the 19th century fort of Poggio Grande. The fort of Rocca Liverna, situated on the opposite side of the valley, is reachable by a path that leaves from Martinetto, the last hamlet of the municipality beyond Conscente: it is a “military” itinerary, which runs alongside former barracks and an ancient gunpowder magazine. Cisano sul Neva Where, how, when Town Hall tel 0182 595 026 www.inforiviera.it/blu/cisano.cfm • Bar Neva tavola calda, via Colombo 33, tel. 0182 595 024 • Felice Michero (wine) via Moraire 54, tel. 0182 595 000 • Felice Noberasco (eggs and wine) via Roma 50, tel. 0182 595 025, 348 81 33 174 open Saturday 17.30-20.30, other days by appointment • Frantoio Fratelli Pozzo (oil, pickles and olives in brine) via Amedeo 31, Conscente, tel. 0182 595 047, 0182 595 154 Open everyday 8.30-12.30 and 14.00-21.00 • Pizzeria Braceria Il Peperoncino Rosso via Pineta 1, Cènesi, tel. 0182 20 853 • Poderi Bado Crosi, via Benessea 25, Cènesi, tel. 0182 21 572 • Ristorante Bar Sport via Colombo 35, tel. 0182 595 323 • Ristorante Brasserie U Rundò via Gombo 39, Conscente, tel. 0182 595 207 • Ristorante Della Fenice via Nuova 87, tel. 0182 595 547 • Ristorante Le Cascate via Piemonte 35, Martinetto, tel. 0182 595 017 • Ristorante Meeting via Benessea 2, tel. 0182 21 551 • Ristorante Pizzeria Torre Pernice 6 Località Torre Pernice, tel. 0182 20 065 Zuccarello The Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley The ancient capital of the marquis ZUCCARELLO Zuccarello was founded Its walls and its porticoes by the marquis of Clavesana in 1248. In Past Martinetto the valley spreads 1326 the marquis Del and the main road continues beside Carretto made the town the river Neva. After about 2 km the capital of his family’s appear the stone ruins of a medieval domain and seat of their 24 castle high on the hill and, low and palace, today a private 0 to the side of the road, a small residence. The castle at frescoed chapel. This is the top of the hill is even the road for Zuccarello. more ancient and its ruins It is necessary to leave are reached by a twenty 54 your car in the car park minute walk from the opposite the door in the centre; it was connected city walls and walk into the village, crossed by two to towers that controlled lines of low porticoes in the Piedmontese-Ligurian access to the town and to 72 style, which have remained almost intact for over the walls that encircle it. six hundred years. When hunger calls... ...you can stop in one of the restaurants of Zuccarello, all attentive to quality and local traditions. Under the porticoes you can find Trattoria Archivolti; outside the wall but still in the old centre is the elegant Il Torchio; and to the side Usteria du Burgu; on the main road, on the other side of the stream, there is Ristorante da Raspi. 7 the other riviera Zuccarello A Roman medieval bridge Zuccarello is famous for its Roman bridge, reachable from the centre by a curving path. The bridge is perhaps not Roman but certainly medieval and among the most beautiful in Liguria; it was made famous some years ago by a cover of Time magazine. Good night She was so young, Ilaria Del Carretto was born everyone! she was so in Zuccarello. She became beautiful... the young wife of Paolo Close to the entrance Guinigi, Lord of Lucca in of Zuccarello on the Small natural 1403 and died in labour only left, before the delights two years later: the porticoes, is the B&B monument by Jacopo della of Lucia Risoli, Ponte Almost Quercia in the cathedral of Romano, named after midway the Tuscan city is dedicated the nearby stone under the to her.