FOUNDED BY JAN AND HERB CONN

?NEWS OF THE P.A.T.C. SECTION awn*" Vol/nay September 1991 HOLIDAY PARTY serious face was out of Yosemite - with lots of hard, the question. I figured that short vertical climbs. Our goal Karen and Stuart Pregnall will Yosemite's famous cracks would was Wheat Thin (5.10b), a fierce host the club's annual holiday be finger-friendly; particularly if I 80-foot layback on the upper party at their home on December could slot my hands thumbs- part of the cliff - known as the 14, 1991, beginning at 7 p.m. down, thereby protecting my Nabisco Wall. To get up there, The Pregnall residence is at 9110 ring finger. we did Beverly's Tower (5.10a), Meadow Rue Lane in Annandale. I had two major projects in mind whose crux is a tricky chimney Call (703-503-5852) for direc- for this trip. One was to conquer in an overhanging corner/slot. tions. Beer will be provided. An my old nemesis, Lunatic Fringe, From there, a death—defying leap attempt will be made to coordi- which is a nasty one- crack across a short chasm landed us at nate food. Call Karen Pregnall or which had so painfully exposed the base of Wheat Thin. After Jeanette Helfrich (301-585-9119) my deficient logging some flight time onto a to find out what dish you should skills when Madeleine Carter TCU, I managed finally to clip bring. Stuart requests that you and I visited Yosemite three the first . From there, Wheat bring your favorite climbing years ago. I assumed that, Thin is a fairly spectacular lay- video. because I am climbing better back and undercling problem now than I was then, I had a rea- with precious little time available sonable shot at Lunatic Fringe. I for any nonsense, contemplation later discovered that doing hard or fancy footwork. Crank or fly. YOSEMITE 1991 face climbs at the New does There is a surprise at the end of by Tom Isaacson very little to improve your crack Wheat Thin which I will leave The late September marriage of climbing skills. The second pro- you to discover on your own. Ken Andrasko and Julie Shannon ject was the East Buttress of El John then led Son of Sam, a hori- in Marin County provided an Capitan, reportedly the best one- zontal crack on the low angle excellent excuse for Jeanette day free climb in Yosemite. Apron which has no footholds Helfrich, John Rayner and me to Reconciling divergent climbing worth mentioning. visit Yosemite after the lovely aspirations is often a major The next day, after warming up affair. Although late September/ aspect of any lengthy climbing on Maxine's Wall (5.10a), we early October is still a bit early trip. Because Jeanette considers blasted up the three pitches of for Yosemite -- it's awfully hot -- herself a mountaineer she was Serenity Crack (5.10a, 5.10a, this seemed like a reasonable hoping to do the longer routes 5.10d). Our mid-day ascent of project. The recession seems to such as Royal Arches. By and this unshaded, south-facing por- have reduced tourism a bit, large John and I resisted those tion of Royal Arches gave us dis- making Valley accommodations temptations, in favor of late starts turbing doses of dehydration and more open than usual. on challenging short routes. sunburn. The three pitches total Having trashed a finger the previ- We first stopped at the Cookie almost 400 feet of continuous ous weekend at the New, any Cliff - the best "sport crag" in crack climbing. The moves UP ROPE 2 aren't all that hard (except at the a few of you know) into Mr. route has approximately two top), but there's a lot of them. Natural. I earned a hanging pitches of 5.10, three pitches of This climb has great protection belay while the rest of our four- 5.9 and seven pitches of assorted except at the start, where it's some climbed and photographed easier grades. The pitches needed the most. Jeanette fin- the route. During lunch we include a wide array of knobs, ished our day by leading watched in horror as a French scoops, cracks, corners, chim- Peruvian Flake (5.10a). duo climbed Green Dragon neys, flares, troughs, stems, lay- After a rest and rehydration day, (5.11b). Their belayer seemed to backs, etc. Although the route we got an early start on Higher think it all right to take both only has one hard move, you Cathedral Spire. This pinnacle, hands off the belay while he may need your full bag of tricks. which looms more than 2,000 unsnarled the rope. Being After a five a.m. start, and a one feet above the Valley floor, is French, of course, the leader did hour hike in the dark, we roped one of the classic Valley free not fall on mere 5.11 and the up, Carter having agreed to lead climbs. After a pitch of 5.5 and lapse became moot. the initial chimney pitch. The four pitches of 5.9 you can enjoy After lunch Carter lead the quite early start was part of our major a flat, spacious summit with out- challenging Synapse Collapse focus on avoiding dehydration. standing views of the Valley. (5.10a) and John cruised Shuttle The East Buttress gets blazing Getting to the base of the Regular Madness (5.9). direct sunlight all day long. Route is a serious slog, which In light of the more demanding Although it is well above the sorely tested John's early morn- adventures to come, I took the Valley floor, you cannot count ing good nature. The route is next day as a partial rest day. on a good breeze up there. By somewhat in the shade and, While Carter and Jeanette osten- completing the aerobic part of although it has several tricky sec- sibly left to climb the - the climb in the dark we hoped tions, is never too hard. After cracker, John and I lounged at to preserve water. I drank a half- getting hero shots -- and attend- the Ahwahnee Hotel. An gallon of Gatorade and a quart of ing to some other needs -- on the unknown and rarely felt force water during the two hours summit, we rapped back down later moved John and Ito between waking up and roping and dashed back to the Valley attempt a few afternoon climbs. up. I'm not sure that did much for showers and dinner at I led, with one transgression, good, but some of the belay Degnan's. Sherries Crack, which is the ledges will never be quite the The next day was spent with hardest 5.10b I've ever same. We also climbed the Carter Mackley at the Apron, attempted. This may replace route with a gallon of water in scene of classic low angle cracks Reed's Direct as my ultimate the pack. and desperate thin . Yosemite sandbag. John then We had a few simple rules: (1) By far the most popular climb led Trough of Justice - or some- we swing leads, (2) the second on the Apron, and deservedly so, thing like that - a pleasant 5.10b, carries the pack, and (3) no stall- is Mr. Natural (5.10c), a full-rope if you don't mind an occasional ing. Aid, cheat, whatever, but length finger crack up immacu- run out and route finding prob- keep going. El Cap is too big late rock. While waiting for a lem. We caught up with and too hot to indulge a lot of pair of Brits to finish Mr. Natural, Carter and Jeanette who told hesitation and shaking out. This we top roped Dr. Feel Good some strange tale about doing is not a good place to lose your (5.10d). The fact that, among the the first pitch of Nutracker three shit (or "shoot", as Carter would four of us, I struggled the most on times, or something like that. say). that climb concerned me both You'll have to ask them As we started up the first pitch, because I had done the climb on Although I suspect it was a ruse another party arrived a previous visit and because I to avoid the dreaded mantle on at the base complaining about was scheduled to lead Mr. pitch five, they insist the route being "scooped" on the route. Natural. Since I was largely was crowded. They threatened to be "barking responsible for route selection I John and Jeanette then left for up our ass" (yuck!), so as to could hardly have begged off on San Francisco. Having recently encourage us to climb faster. this lead. In any event, I hung completed his first wall climb in Since one of them is a guide at out long enough to empty a con- the Valley, Carter was eager to EMS, we took the threat seri- siderable portion of my rack (and tackle the East Buttress of El Cap. ously. For the record, they only that really is saying something as Although accounts differ, the caught up to us twice on this 12 UP ROPE 3 pitch route. Our Judeo-Mormon ings are pretty stiff. The pitches May of last Year, Smith Wood alliance proved swift. are long, you must place your and I spent a week climbing out- On pitch eight we caught up to a own protection and there is a lot side of Moab, Utah, with ascents climber named Hans, who was of rapelling involved. Of course, of Owl Rock (5.8), Dark Tower on the second day of a roped- compared to the New, Yosemite (5.10), and the northwest route solo ascent. Hans was very sick weather is fairly stable (I've on Castleton (5.9). Owl Rock from dehydration and was in no never been rained on there in and Dark Tower are both in condition to get up or down the five trips), Yosemite has no Arches National Park, a land route on his own. We gave Hans snakes or bees and only a of stone monoliths, of every a half-gallon of our much cher- modest rockfall problem. You shape and dimension, standing ished water, some food and a may not do a lot of climbs with for miles across the desert. The top-rope for the last four pitches. big ratings, but you'll probably trail to Dark Tower (some two Hans never quite regained his feel like you did something hard hours) crosses an enchanted equilibrium but he managed to nonetheless. Amidst all the landscape--the hike of a lifetime. climb out with a minimum of exictement, I never got around to Unlike many towers, the Dark complaining. Hans had the Lunatic Fringe -- perhaps next Tower stands alone, and visible poor form to barf into Carter's trip. for many miles. Castleton, some water bottle. He thanked us for forty miles north of Moab, is a saving his life. wonder, sitting on a high cone of Hans aside, the East Buttress of El scree, presenting a fantastic Cap deserves its reputation as a Distant Lands Dept. visage. Its northwest route is classic route. Although it is a Club member Jim Martin writes thought by many to be the best substantial undertaking, it is "Now home ported in Japan. A 5.9 in the desert. Its first pitch, a easily manageable in a long day. few rocks/cliffs nearby. Climbed long, overhanging crack, is par- We were at the top of El Capitan in Japan before? Please have ticularly memorable. Set aside a before two p.m., even with the members send info." Jim's full day for this beauty. Owl delay for Hans. The situation address is: Rock, a one pitch 5.8, is a great along this arete is spectacular on 1-22-6 Mabori-Kaigan warmup, on desert sandstone. several pitches -- especially four Yokosuka, Kanagawa 239 It's right off the road in Arches, and eight. The descent is surpris- JAPAN only minutes from Moab. ingly easy. 011-81 (0468) 41-7574 July found Bill Cox and I in the I still believe that the quality of Dolomites, alpine rock spires, Yosemite climbs is well worth rising from lush green Italian the hassle of dealing with life in Alps. The place is stunningly the Valley. Yosemite is Reed Falwell Incident beautiful (many small, pictu- extremely smokey, both from Editor's Note: LJPROPE solicited resque alpine towns), and sur- natural fires as well as campsites. the following article from Reed prisingly inexpensive. The The Curry Co. should not sell Falwell, long-time area climber climbs, on high rock, in an firewood, but it's probably a big and resident of Potomac, alpine setting, are quite accessi- profit item. The Valley roads are Maryland. In November of ble. Bill and I accomplished the primarily one way and a great 1990, Reed took a seemingly "Yellow Aretet," on the Tri Cime deal of any trip is spent driving minor fall at Seneca and subse- Di Lavaredo. This 5.9 follows a around the Valley floor. The res- quently had his foot amputated. wonderfully exposed knife edge taurants close far too early and Although his account omits the ridge for twelve pitches to a are crowded on weekends. But, reams of medical details and small summit (approximately I appreciate the amenities of the complications, here is his story. 2,900 M). Bill and I finished the Valley, such as stores, restau- last half of the route in a white rants, showers, a climbing shop, A number of folks have inquired out fog, with a challenging etc. It is still one of my favorite about my circumstance since my descent in the soup. We next destinations, a sentiment others climbing accident, so I'd like to climbed the south face (5.9) of do not share. take this opportunity to fill in Piz Di Caivazes (Schubert Be forewarned -- Yosemite is bad some informational gaps. Route), eight pitches of delightful for the ego. Despite what you Last year's climbing season was climbing. "Perhaps, the best free may have heard, Yosemite grad- great, until the last climb, In climb on the Piz Di Caivazes-- UP ROPE 4 fabulous rock and somewhat ath- "Suck it up, Dad—you've seen ing Indian ruins, petroglyphs and letic in sections." How can you worse than this." Thought I was other desert scenery for an resist this guidebook description? climbing with John Wayne. I sat upcoming slide show. Many hiking trails are found on the ledge for an hour, while Photographing and hopping in the Dolomites. Mountaineers young Reed fetched John around on crutches in "slickrock need not have technical climbing Markwell, who in turn got six country" was an interesting ability to enjoy these spectacular stout men with a stokes litter. I experience. trails, and can clip into anchored was lowered off the rock on my I've heard from friends that there cables, which take you over high son's back. have been an unusual number of exposed ground. Strategically John Markwell was professional accidents at Seneca this year. placed inns provide the moun- and wonderful—I shall forever Climbing is dangerous—that I've taineer with food and drink. The be indebted to him. We're lucky always known. But now, I've Dolomites are a special alpine to have him at Seneca. It was come to fully appreciate how wonderland. four and a half hours to the hos- dangerous climbing can be on In September, Smith Wood and I pital and a pain killer (three easy ground, close to home. climbed the Leaning Tower (A-3) hours off the rock and one and a This was reemphasized with this in Yosemite Valley. Overhanging half to the hospital), with muscle year's tragic accident on the the entire way, Smith and I spasms grinding up broken bone east first pitch of Pleasant gained the summit in four days of the entire way. Elkins Hospital Overhangs, involving another hard work (typical eastern style). couldn't help, so I ended up at experienced climber. Today, I've never had more enjoyment West Virginia University new climbers have the opportu- on a "big wall." Copious quanti- Hospital in Morgantown. nity to develop more quickly, top ties of both water and Christian It's a long story, but suffice it to roping on artifical walls and Brothers Brandy proved a dyna- say that my leg was amputated local crags. Their skills in plac- mite combination. below the knee on July 12th, and ing protection do not always Later that fall, Tony Rickert and I I have not walked since match their climbing abilities. were back in Canyonlands November 17th. This walking Top roping a 5.10 does not mean climbing Pale Fire (5.12)(A-2, problem will soon be remedied, that you can climb a 5.10 lead, 5.9), a two day adventure on and I fully intend to resume my nor does it mean you should try Moses, the tallest rock tower in climbing career in the spring of a 5.6 on lead. I suspect that the Park. Moses is a five pitch 1992. Many climbing friends training this new influx of climb- monster, rising from the floor of have been a great help, which I ers to be safe is an important pri- Garnet Canyon to its rim, a deeply appreciate. Hugh Herr, ority. Look forward to seeing remote and beautiful spot, in the who is an inspiration, has given folks out on the mountain soon. shadow of ancient Indians. me much of his time and good I "attempted" to finish the season advice. by leading my young son up an Unable to walk for nine months, "easy" climb at Seneca. I've had a dilemma—what to do HEADQUARTERS MOVED TO November 17, 1990, found with my spare time. The spare VIENNA, VA. young Reed and I looking up at a time I used to devote to climb- PATC moved into its new head- rain-soaked Seneca Rock. With ing. Interestingly, these "tragic quarters in Vienna, Virginia on nothing better to do, we set out. events" have a funny way of September 20. The headquarters At the base of Conn's East Direct, enlarging your interests and is a two–story, free–standing we put on our harnesses in com- activities. My enforced "rest" has building located at 118 Park plete solitude. My son is a given me the opportunity to Street, S.E., Vienna. PATC novice so my attention was write a play, and also develop purchased the building for focused on him, explaining the two rather elaborate slide shows, approximately $740,000 and techniques of a good belay. Five one on last season's climbing sold the old headquarters build- feet off the ground (no kidding), adventures, and the other, on ing for about the same price. my foot came off wet rock, and I ancient Indians. Unable to walk, The 20–yearTmold building con- followed it. The foot wedged, I went back to the desert last tains 7000 square feet, has 28 with my body going over it. The May, rented a four–wheel drive, parking spaces, meeting rooms, ankle was "blown apart." and took long drives deep into storage space for tools, publica- Commentary by my young son, the western desert– photograph- tion storage, a shipping room, a UP ROPE, 5 public information area for sales LEE COLLYER RESIGNS NEWS NOTES ON MEMBERS and cabin rentals, and room for a Lee Collyer resigned as staff Carter Mackley has left the law library. MS has a separate office director of PATC effective in firm of Sullivan & Cromwell to which is shares with the other September and has been enter the Ph.D. program in eco- Sections and will continue to replaced by Michael Petty. Lee nomics at Berkeley. John Yanson have a mail box, file cabinet and her husband, Ron Collyer, has become a proud homeowner space, and rooms for its monthly moved to Montana to manage a of a large semi-detached house meetings. Since the current cross country ski resort located at 21 R Street, N.W. off N. rooms only hold about 20 near west Yellowstone and Capital Street; John earlier people, renovations will take Ennis, Montana. They will drove a '65 Cadillac convertible place to create a larger meeting manage the lodge and five ("Doris") back to the east coast area as well as soon as funds are cabins, groom trails, and guide from San Diego with a stop at the available. clients at the Wade Lake Resort, Grand Canyon and Graceland(!). The monthly meeting is on Wednesday, a small, rustic resort with 55 Liz Lee recently traveled to December 11 and will take place at kilometers of cross-country trails. Thailand, Nepal and Indonesia to PATC Headquarters. Lee hopes to see some MS mem- interview winners of a U.N. envi- Directions: take 1-66 west from bers skiing there this winter and ronmental prize for a book she is 1-495, exit at Nutley street north, will send us brochures. Their writing for her employer. Jack go one mile north, turn right new address is: Smith, ABC news for the (east) on Maple Avenue (Rt. 123), Wade Lake Resort Brinkley show and ABC weekend go about one mile, turn right on Boxl 07, Cameron, Montana news has been nominated for an Park St SE (Southern States 59720, 406-682-7560. Emmy for a television segment Supply is on the corner of Maple MS wishes to thank Lee for her he produced on racism. Michael and Park), and the building is assistance to the Mountaineering Mergi has left the Architect of the immediately on your left. Or, Section over the years in the Capitol's office to move to his take the orange line to the many day-to-day housekeeping hometown of Buffalo, New York Vienna Metro station and buses tasks involved in keeping our where he is employed as an 2X or 2C or walk 1.5 miles organization up and running. Emergency Medical Technician. through a pleasant residential In particular, we appreciate her John Rayner and his former area. The headquarters is near special assistance to the climbing partner, Bob Ryan, cur- the Maple Avenue Shopping Mountain Film Festival rently living in London, bicycled Center and 1/8 mile from the and publication and sales of our on the island of Sardinia in Italy WD&O bike trail. The participa- guidebooks. in October inspired by the climb- tion of MS members is welcomed ing photographs in a recent issue to make the building a useful and of Mountain. Ken And rasko lively headquarters for PATC, and Julie Shannon are honey- MS, and the other sections and TELEPHONE RECORDING FOR mooning in Thailand after their their activities. In particular, MS TRIPS Marin County wedding on members living in the Vienna MS is getting its own telephone September 28. Elizabeth Erskine area are invited to assist with vol- line at the new PATC headquar- and Tom Halicki climbed Le unteer staffing of the new facility ters from which members can Petit Gripon and Hallett Peak in since several people who worked access a recorded message for Rocky Mountain National Park at the downtown location can no weekend trip information and this summer. Doug Dupuis and longer help out. For several special events. The cost to MS is Ali Abrishami also climbed in the years, PATC has worked hard on a $26.80 installation fee and an Boulder area in August. Eric finding a new headquarters and $18 a month service charge. Wright found some rock climb- is pleased with the new building Trip leaders and officers will be ing in Hawaii and was been seen which is much larger, has good able to record new messages in Boulder and environs. The parking, will have less expensive from remote locations. The ski recent 1990 AAC Journal pub- upkeep, and should be a conven- section has had a similar line for lished an account of Jeanette ient meeting place for Virginia about a year, and we applaud Helfrich's group's attempt on trips. For a building tour, call this upgrade in service to our Langtang Lirung and Chris Michael Petty, new PATC staff members. The number is 703- Warner's new route on Ama director at 703-242-0693. 242-3501. Dablan in Nepal in 1990. Jeffrey UP ROPE 6 Levy was honored at a farewell family house being renovated some of these are not really party in June hosted by Jeanette near Grenoble (new address: climbing expressions but reflect Helfrich and John Rayner. Jeffrey Nantizon, 38350 Susville, the peculiarities of Jeanette's Levy then went on to climb Mt. France). Ken Klapatch is spend- climbing partners. I would add St. Helens and Mt. Whitney ing an extended temporary "follow, free solo and fixed pro- including an attempt on Mt. assignment with Magnavox in Ft. tection" to the list. Hood before settling down for Wayne, Indiana but is keeping graduate school at the University his house here in Chantilly. Tom of Washington in Seattle. Dave Isaacson, John Rayner, Jeanette Coffey and Bob Fenichel were Helfrich, and Carter Mackley (for ADIRONDACKS climbing in New Hampshire in part of the time) spent a week in Anne Baron is leading an ice August. Bob earlier traveled to September climbing in Yosemite climbing trip to the Adirondacks Alaska for an attempt on Mt. Valley and attending the wed- over the Martin Luther King 3- McKinley. Don and Zoila ding of Ken Andrasko and Julie day weekend on January 18-20, Holtzer vacationed in the Shannon. Brian Borders (former 1992. The group will stay in a Dominican Republic this sum- aide to Senator D'Amato) and lodge and old farm house in mer. Jeff Kramer and Cristina Grace Morgan recently returned Keene, New York run by Ed and Barros were married on August to Washington after spending a Ann Palen of Adirondack Rock 25 in Alexandria and traveled to year traveling in Czechoslovakia and River Guide Service, P.O. Greece for their honeymoon. and Africa. Ellianne Lieberman Box 219, Keene, NY 12942 Doug and Lori Craun and Jeff is on a six-week climbing tour (518-576-2041). Kramer climbed on Cathedral out west this fall. Seen at the Accommodations consist of bed- and White Horse Ledges and Access Fund's Climbers' and-breakfast style lodging hiked up Mt. Adams this Rendezvous at the Gunks: Stuart with private rooms (private or summer. Dusty Wissmath has and Karen Pregnall, Beth Logan, shared bath), loft, bunk area, been seen climbing and Dusty Wissmath, Mary Koshuto, stream-side lean-to, and - schmoozing in several Jeanette Helfrich, Sallie sites. The number of people in times this summer. Kate Hughes Greenwood, and Howard Doyle. these facilities is strictly con- vacationed in the Lake District in The September issue of trolled but overflow housing can England in August. Rick Wilcox, Washingtonian magazine recom- be arranged if necessary. Home- owner of IME in North Conway mended PATC (no mention of cooked breakfast and possibly and Secretary of the AAC, and PATC/MS) as a place to meet dinner will be specially prepared Mark Richey of Boston, climbed outdoorsy singles!! On the for our group. The lodge also Mt. Everest by the south col route remaindered shelf for $1 - has a stone in its in May (Rick may give a slide Angels of Light, a novel about spacious living room. Basic and show here next spring). Sallie climbers in Camp 4 and their advanced ice climbing instruc- Greenwood has resigned as an adventures retrieving bales of tion will be available from Ed editor from the National marijuana from a crashed and Ann's guide service will Geographic Society and is plane in the mountains. includes all equipment. The area moving to Boulder, Colorado offers ice climbing at all levels as where she will be a free lance well as cross-country skiing out writer and editor; Sallies book the front door. A number of MS on the history of women climb- "F" WORDS IN CLIMBING members climbed there in 1989 ers will be out in Spring 1992. Fall, flash, flail, flounder, and 1990 and highly recommend Rick Forbes may be moving back Friends, flared, finger, flapper, the area. One can reach Keene to D.C. after several years in friction, flame out, flabby, fat, by car (8-9 hour drive), by train Phoenix, Arizona. Don fist, foot, forefinger, flank, first- to Lake Placid (20 miles away) or McIntyre, still with DOE, has aid, flamingoes, fraternize, by flying into Albany and renting moved back to D.C. from Sandia, finesse, falter, fulminate, fissure, a car. Since the trip is nearly New Mexico. Regis and Cathy fracture, force, formidable, full, please indicate your interest Martin had quadruplets on July fouled up, freaked out, free up, immediately to Anne Baron at 12: Emily, Alice, Clemence, and Frenchies, frightened, frontpoint, 703-680-5561 home or 202-223- Pierre (who has since died); they frustrated, flatulence, funk, fusti- 4001 office. moved from Marseilles to a ness, fun, f... etc. [Editor's note: If a trip leader can be found, MS UP ROPE ADDENDUM

NEW YEAR'S RESOLUTIONS NOMINATIONS For 1992, I resolve: 1. To stop giving John Rayner 6. To increase my donation to the The Nominating Com- such a hard time. Access Fund. mittee, Jeanette Helfrich, Jeff Kramer 2. To persuade Stuart Pregnall 7. To stop arguing about bolting. and John Yanson uresentF to the lead me up the Yellow Wall. following slate of 8. To learn the secret of officers for 1992: Jeanette's finger power. Pres. Dusty Wissmath 3. To complete the first ascent of V.P. Paula Grant Old Forts in Tights. Sec. Peter Hsi 9. To climb better while taking it Treas. Jeff Colianni. 4. To lead New Age Equippers. less seriously. Elections are on the 5. To thank Charlie Dorian for all night of the January the good work he's done at the 10. To learAa new knot. monthly meeting. Rockville Wall. -Tom IsaaEson

CALENDAR

DATE DESTINATION CONTACT PHONE MEET Dec 14 Great Falls, VA Stu Hammett 301-627-3874 OF Dec 15 Bulges, Great Falls, MD John Yanson 202-667-4334 GF-MD Dec 14 Holiday Party Karen & Stewart P. 703 543-3988

Jan 2 Executive Meeting (Thursday) Dusty Wissmath 301-585-7610 TBA Jan 4 White Oak Canyon-ICE* Dusty Wissmath 301-985-7610 (optimisic idea) & John Yanson 202-667-4334 TBA Jan 8 Monthly Meeting-annual Dusty Wissmath 301-585-7610 HQ election of officers Slide show by Chuck Fleischman & Sid Balman: Climbing K2 Jan 11 Crescent Rocks John Yanson 202-667-4334 TC Jan 18-20* Adirondacks-Ice Anne Baron 703-680-5561 TBA

Feb 8-9* Delaware Water Gap-Ice* Jeff Colianni 703-273-9880 TBA Feb 5 Executive Committee Meeting Dusty Wissmath 301-585-7610 TBA Feb 12 Monthly Meeting-Slide show Dusty Wissmath 301-585-7610 HQ Don McIntyre

There will be an Executive Committee meeting on the first Wednesday of each month. Everyone is welcome. For Information please call Dusty Wissmath (301-585-7610).

For additional information about listed trips, please call the trip leader a few days in advance of the scheduled date. For any other information call Jeff Kramer (703-931-4895). .

* These trips are to areas. Please arrange for your own partners UP ROPE 7 may also schedule a trip over the please call Tom. Tom, Stuart PROSPECT LIST NAMES Presidents' Day three-day week- Pregnall and James Eakin have NEEDED end in February to North been working on a harder Over the last 3 years, MS has put Conway, New Hampshire. variation further right. Also on together a fairly decent mailing Volunteers? the trip were Stu Hammet list of 760 prospective members (enthusiastic new member who and active climbers in the area. is a lawyer in Upper Marlboro But we need YOUR help. The volunteering for our access com- only way to have a good quality HERMITAGE TRIP REPORT mittee); Stu's friend, John Ray; list is by the old-fashioned grass On August 11, 1991, MS mem- Donn Williams from Frederick; roots method of asking climbers bers enjoyed the cool north-face and Jeanette Helfrich, trip leader. for their address and phone num- rocks of the Hermitage area on Later, the climbers celebrated bers. It's like going door-to-door the AT near Gettysburg, Pa. "the Passing Storm" in historic in a political campaign. When Most of the following did most of downtown Gaithersburg at the you talk to other climbers at the usual climbs: John Yanson Great China Restaurant. Note: a Great Falls, Seneca, etc., ask (trip leader), Doug Dupuie, Beth #1 Cama lot is very useful for rig- them if they would like some Logan, James Eakin, Michael ging this route. information about the club and if Mergi, Paul Torrelli, Ellianne they would like to be on our Lieberman, Jeanette Helfrich, mailing list for information of John Boyd, Bill Weatherell, Felix interest to climbers. Most will Hoffstatter (visiting from Frank- NEW PATC MAP "D" say yes. Be sure to carry a pad furt, Germany), Rita Zeidner, AVAILABLE and pencil in your pack to get John Rayner (belaying only due PATC has just republished MAP their name, address, and phone to sprained ankle), and others. D which shows the hiking numbers. Then all you have to We also flailed on a 5.10 and climbing areas in Maryland do is call up Jeanette Helfrich on overhang at the far west end of and Virginia in the Mather Gorge the Membership Committee at the cliffs which we called "Elbow from just inside beltway to above 301 -585-91 19 home or 202-586- Overhang" for the elbow and Great Falls. The map is now 5267 office or Pete Hsi, forearm bruises everyone experi- available from PATC headquar- Secretary, at 703-620-4741 at enced who did the climb. We ters book sales. Jim Fenuchen, a home or 202-377-6808 at work ended the day with pizza at II PATC volunteer, directed the and just leave the information on Forno in Gaithersburg. publication efforts with the their answering machines. They Cartegraphics company. He or the Executive Committee will invites the MS to review the send a packet of information out accuracy of the map and to con- to the person, and will add her or THE PASSING STORM" AT tact him at 202-254-5544 with him to MS's computerized ANNAPOLIS ROCKS suggestions. "Prospect" mailing list. We use The club trip to Annapolis Rocks This map may be a useful that list several times a year on August 18 saw a new top- adjunct to the two guidebooks for the film festival and special rope problem conquered by Tom published by MS to the area: the slide shows. Most importantly, Isaacson. Named "The Passing Great Falls guidebook written by this essential club work leads to Storm" for the atmospheric con- James Eakin and the Carderock new members which revitalize ditions prevailing during the guidebook written by Selma the club. Don't be shy. ascent, this 5.11+ climb goes up Hanel. By the way, the guide- about 20 feet of extremely over- books continue to sell well. In hanging rock just to the right of the first six months of 1991, 450 Faint's Roof. This roof shares no copies of the Carderock guide- CLOTHES DONATIONS FOR footholds or handholds with book have been sold and 550 NEPAL Faint's Roof and is about 10 feet copies of the Great Falls guide- Anne Baron is soliciting dona- longer (horizontally). To the best book. The MS receives substan- tions of clothes to take to Nepal of our knowledge, this route has tial royalties from these sales. this fall, especially sneakers, not been climbed before. If, warm clothes, sweaters, jeans, however, you have any informa- and T-shirts. Anne plans to trek tion about previous ascents, in through the Rowaling Valley UP ROPE 8 and climb the south ridge of John on the large waterpipe (2 creek, about 100 yards. They set Kwangde Lo, 20,298 feet. She feet in diameter) used for the up a caving belay system using is currently sponsoring a family walk in. They cushioned him old gold line ropes. Eric noticed with two children in eastern from the coldness of the water in that at least three rescue people Nepal. Please take your dona- the pipe with our empty packs. as well as John would be tions at Anne by November 1. Unbeknownst to me, a nearby attached with a single old piece Call Anne at 703-680-5561 climber ran to call an ambulance of 7-9mm gold line sling doubled home or 202-223-4001 office. on his car phone but had to or tripled to a single (albeit drive to the canyon entrance to heavy-duty) eye-bolt in the cliff make contact. Eric and friends used to hold up the waterpipe. taped John's ankle using his Teva After the delicate operation of RESCUE IN BOULDER sandals as splints. I was still up lifting John up and sliding him CANYON: A FIRST-HAND at the belay at the end of the first into the litter between the guy ACCOUNT pitch, preparing to clean the wires on the waterpipe, they low- by Jeanette Helfrich climb, then rappel down. With ered him down and across the On July 21, 1991, John Rayner Eric's belaying and moral sup- creek without incident. and I went climbing with port I climbed the easy ramp, Throughout, John seemed Rich Cunningham and Judy adding more pro to account for remarkably calm and collected. Harper on Elephant Buttress, sev- my stress, cleaned the Camelots, I had divided my time between eral miles west of Boulder just and retreated to set up a rappel. comforting John and keeping inside the entrance to Boulder I heard the sirens and realized track of myself and our spread- Canyon. I led the first pitch of with surprise that they were for out gear. John reminded me to "Monster Woman," 5.9; John us. I left a bunch of pro for count shoes carefully when pack- started up the second pitch. We rappelling which Eric and friends ing (6 pair total: 2 pair of climb- were climbing on two 8.5mm agreed to retrieve upon doing ing shoes each and a pair of Mammut double ropes. He the climb. At some point I was sneakers each). Judy and Eric climbed a easy rampy section, finally able to let our friends, helped me pack up quickly in then started up a corner. He put Rich and Judy, who were on a order to get across the creek by in two Camelots on one rope and climb out of sight around the the bridge in time to ride in the a wired stopper higher on the corner, know that John was hurt. ambulance. Judy and I ran across other rope. After getting off- When I got down, the Four Mile the bridge and through the grow- route in the corner, he started to Volunteer Rescue Squad had ing crowd of Sunday afternoon down climb expecting to fall on already arrived followed shortly spectators. I madly got John's the stopper. He didn't know that by the medical technician in the wallet with insurance informa- the stopper had just fallen out. ambulance. They put a neck tion out of our car which Judy The two Camelots on the other brace on John and were check- drove to the hospital. The ambu- rope caught his fall of about 15- ing him over. They asked him to lance took us to Boulder 30 feet. He hit the rampy area wiggle his toes, whether his back Community Hospital, about 5 and immediately complained hurt, whether he was allergic to miles away. On the way, the about his ankle. At this point, he any drugs, and what his birth medical technician gave John was only about 15 feet from me date was, etc. They put a flexi- an IV of glucose. At the hospital, and seemed alright in terms of ble wire splint around his ankle we were seen promptly (by DC head injuries or other more seri- after taking off his . standards) though they apolo- ous injuries. He asked me to They did not put ice on the ankle gized for the delay. The X-rays immediately lower him all the although I later saw some blue showed a hairline fracture in the way to the ground. After assuring cool bags just lying on the distal fibula just above the ankle myself that there was enough ground. I'm not sure what treat- and an acute sprained ankle. For rope to reach the ground, I did ment the volunteers did and the first time, I had a chance to so. In the meantime, Eric Wright what the medical technician did. wash up and examine the rope and two friends, John and Buck, All were impressed that John was burns on my right palm and had arrived at the base planning wearing a helmet. fingers which the doctor said to do the same climb and saw The rescue squad planned to should heal without problem. the whole incident. When John lower John on a Stokes litter John was greatly relieved not to reached the ground, they laid down the ,hillside and across the have a worse injury although UP ROPE . 9 disappointed that he would miss and Patty Wespiser. Their con- Four pack horses carried the bulk the Wind River trip (see other siderable climbing experience of our food and equipment. story). With a cast and a pre- and winning ways contributed to Each horse carries 150 pounds or scription for crutches and enjoyable camp life and later to about two climbers' gear. This codeine, it was all over. John fell rescue operations. During our 15-mile hike to the Cirque fol- at 11:30 a.m. and by 2:00 p.m., six-day stay, members of the lows the North Fork Trail of the he was sitting in a recliner group climbed Wolf's Head, Popo Agie River and takes about watching a baseball game in , Pylon Peak, and 6-8 hours one way. The horses Judy Harper's parents' house. Pingora twice. On the second return to the ranch the same day. What a contrast to a sprained ascent of Pingora (day 5), Ricky The guidebook advertised four ankle in the Winds, where medi- Todd sprained his ankle in a river crossings on this trail. The cal attention couldn't be leader fall, and was evacuated first crossing was easy; the obtained for 2 days. After pain- on horseback. second more imposing. Some ful deliberation, I drove up to the Since the approaches into the slithered across the second on Wind Rivers trip as planned Cirque are strenuous hikes, we high logs. I waded across using while John recuperated in decided at the outset to hire my two ski poles. To avoid the Carbondale with Rich and Judy horses to hump our stuff to two other crossings, we skirted a and received therapy at the camp. When carrying their own lake by a game trail. Eventually Aspen Club. It could have gear, climbers generally hike the rain, swamps, and bogs been worse. to the Cirque on the 5-8 mile defeated our attempts to stay dry trail from Big Sandy Opening on and we reached camp with the west side of the Winds cross- soaking leather and canvas ing back-breaking Jackass Pass boots. which is not suitable for horses We set up camp in a pine thicket CLIMBING IN WIND RIVERS (nor people to our minds). Our next to a meadow of wild flowers by Jeanette Helfrich decision dictated that we northeast of Lonesome Lake at In the in approach the Cirque from the 10,266 feet altitude. Camping is northwestern Wyoming, the east side of the Winds near not allowed within 1/4 mile of the Cirque of the Towers surrounds Lander where horses can wander lake. The crystal clear lake sup- Lonesome Lake in a ring of gran- up a flatter although longer trail. plied our drinking and cooking ite rock towers. Part of the conti- We reserved horses from Jim and water which we treated with nental divide, this wonderland of Mary Allen of Lander who hold iodine. We were the talk of the alpine rock contains many easy the only permit to take horses Cirque with our luxurious camp- and moderate climbs from 4th into the Popo Agie Wilderness site, camp chairs, canned foods, class through 5.9 on superb gran- where the Cirque is located. some fresh fruit and vegetables, a ite. Nonetheless, the area (Allowing horses into this pris- case of beer and two 5-liter card- rewards speed and good route- tine wilderness contradicts the board containers of wine (one finding. whole idea of wilderness since red, one white). The torment of In late July, a number of MS horses cause a lot of environ- the mosquitos was bearable only members and friends climbed, mental damage but this country's because the cool temperatures hiked, and camped in the wilderness policies reflects just allowed us to wear pile or two Cirque: Ed Cummings, Tom such ironies. layers of clothes. We had Russell, Ian Cruickshank, Ricky The eight of us rendezvoused in delightful weather, 60-70 Todd, Charlie Dorian, Gretchen Lander which is about 180 miles degrees in the daytime, 50 at Schwartz, Sue Drazek, and southeast of Jackson and 400 night, and no rain or thunder- myself. Because of a sprained miles northwest of Denver. showers except for the hike in. ankle in Boulder Canyon two From Lander, we drove up Although a ranger told us that 35 days earlier, John Rayner was not mountain roads for 35 miles to people were camped in the able to join us. (See other story). Dickinson Park and stayed over- Cirque, we enjoyed near solitude While congregating in Jackson, night in cabins at Jim and Mary at camp and on the climbs. we met two climbers from North Allen's Diamond Four Ranch. On our first day, we explored the Conway, New Hampshire on a The next morning after a hearty Cirque to locate peaks, six-month climbing odessy who ranch breakfast, we started approaches and descents. later joined our camp: Chris Gill hiking with light day packs. Charlie and Ricky scampered up .UP ROPE 10 Pylon Peak via the Wisconsin steep dirty gully to snow fields descended to tree line, we found Couloir to a spectacular view of and our packs. This long climb Ricky a walking stick. We the Wind River Range to the took 14 hours round trip from avoided the tedious boulder field north (Southeast Gully, I, Class 4- camp. by going around the south side easy 5). Gretchen and Sue On day four, Ed Cummings and of the lake. After starting at 6:30 walked out that day after joining Ricky Todd climbed Mitchell a.m., we arrived back in camp us on the hike in. Peak via the North Ledge route around 8:30 p.m. just before The second day we climbed (I, Class 3). This pleasant climb sunset. The threatening after- Pingora by scrambling up the involved several class 5 moves noon thundershowers never south shoulder then roping up for but was mostly 4th class. It took materialized. the southwest face (South 2 1/2 hours from camp to the Early the next morning, Tom and Buttress, II, 5.6 with crack varia- summit. Ed hiked out a day ahead of tion at 5.8). Four delightful By day five, we were ready for schedule. They arranged to have pitches on solid low-angle gran- our major objective - the north- an extra horse sent with the pack ite and some scrambling brought east face of Pingora, one of the horses for Ricky to ride out. us to the summit. On the "50 Classics" (IV, 5.8). In two They also arranged for Ricky to summit, we were rewarded with roped parties composed of have medical care as soon as he an imposing straight-on view of Charlie and Ricky, and Ian and got to Lander. That last day in our intended route up the east myself, we started out early camp Ricky rested with his ace- ridge of Wolf's Head. On our swinging leads up the 10-12 bandaged foot elevated and cov- descent, we found rappel stations pitches of beautiful, laid-back ered with ice packs, fortified with suitable for single rope rappels granite cracks and corners. Each any food available, Motrin and and passable rappel slings. pitch had an interesting move or the rest of Ed's Remy-Martin Using double ropes, we needed two which made for continuous Cognac. For the rest of us, that only three rappels. and enjoyable climbing. day turned into one of those all- On day three, we started out for On the fourth pitch from the top, too-rare B.S. sessions where we Shark's Nose. Because of incred- however, Ricky Todd took a solved all of the problems of the ibly good weather, however, we leader fall of about 6-8 feet on world. (It just wouldn't do for us decided to veer over and climb good pro and sprained his to have leftover wine). Wolf's Head instead which ankle. After assessing Ricky's The hike out went as planned but required a long day of stable injury and state of mind, we the ride for Ricky, his sprained weather. We climbed Wolf's chose to continue up over the foot in a stirrup, was a painful Head by the classic east ridge top to the rappels and descent ordeal. He arrived back at the route (II, 5.5) in "50 Classic route we already done. The ranch at 10:30 p.m. after 5 1/2 Climbs". This exposed, airy, alternative would have been to hours. Ed then drove him to the knife-edge ridge with improbable rappel onto unknown rock faces hospital in Lander where they ledges, chimneys and towers is below away from our diagonall- arrived at 1:00 a.m. The X-rays probably the most exciting 5.5 ing route. Ricky figured that with showed no broken bones but a alpine rock route I've ever done. tension, he could climb up the badly sprained ankle and some It was vaguely reminiscent of primarily right-facing corners by internal tissue damage. Eleven Bugaboo spire by the northeast hopping his right foot up the hours later on crutches and with ridge route but more exposed. face. Amazingly, he did. an air splint, Ricky was able to After classic summit photos, we Watching through binoculars fly back to Seattle from Jackson scrambled and rappelled down from camp, Ed, Tom, Chris, as scheduled. the west face (I, 5.0) using rappel and Patty discerned that Ricky In assessing the lessons learned stations already in place. was hurt. Ed and Chris quickly from this incident, we realized Deposited on confused terrain of hiked to the bottom of the rap- that we benefitted from traveling rocky gullies on the Shadow pels with extra water, food, into this remote area in a fairly Lake side of the Cirque, we tra- clothing, equipment, and our large group. For example, we versed around to the south where mountain boots. Ricky remained had two ropes of two climbing we did a final rappel into the col in good spirits and his ankle did together on the route (no one between Wolf's Head and not appear to be broken. We else was on the route that day). Overhanging Tower. Still in rock filled a pack with snow to use This meant that after Ricky fell, shoes, we scrambled down a later for ice bags. As soon as we three uninjured people were UP ROPE 11 available to make decisions, cials had their Wind River vaca- Eakin, Elizabeth Erskine and Carl organize rappels, help Ricky up tions cut short by the USSR crisis Phillips. I encountered the usual and down, and/or go for help if and that the Pentagon's press range of nature: extreme summer necessary while others stayed secretary, on a backpacking trip, humidity, serious frost and chilly with the injured person. At the was plucked out of the Winds by winds in the fall, the omnipresent same time, four experienced helicopter during the crisis. morning fog, deer, bees galore, people remained in camp who serpents, and serious smoke. could and did follow our GUIDEBOOKS & MAPS: Incredibly, I did not miss a single progress through binoculars. We Joe Kelsey, Climbing and Hiking day due to rain. actually saw them watching us in the Wind River Mountains, Although the New gained its ini- and assumed that they would Sierra Club Tote Book; Orrin H. tial fame for having the best figure out what had happened. Bonney & Lorraine Bonney, cracks in the East, it has now They were able to anticipate Field Book: The Wind River achieved international reknown problems and help with the Range, 3d Edition 1977; USGS as a venue. Many rescue. Having a large group 7 1/2 minute - of America and Europe's best also meant that there were Quadrangle; USGS 7 1/2 minute climbers visit the New. That bound to be some people in -Dickinson Park Quadrangle. development has been fueled in camp were rested and ready to part by the relaxed attitudes go for help so the climbers could OUTFITTER: Jim and Mary toward bolting that prevail at the themselves then rest and help Allen's Diamond Four Ranch, New. The New now sports hun- care for the injured person. It P.O. Box 243, Lander WY dreds of high end bolted face was also wise that we had 82520, 307-332-2995. Cabins and overhang climbs. While scouted out the approaches and at Dickinson Park are $10 per these are not "safe" in any normal descents in advance and were person. Breakfast is $10 per sense of the word, they are rela- generally experienced in the person. Horses are $70 per day tively safe by the standards of mountains. We had started early including wrangler, not includ- lead climbing. If you want to in the day - 5:30 a.m. We had ing tips. Camping and guided raise the level at which you lead, various medications, medical trips are also available. the New is one of the best places books, and recent experience you could possibly go to. The with sprained ankles. On the ALTITUDE SUMMARY grading at the New may be a bit other hand, we didn't have a Dickinson Park Trail head, more generous than elsewhere in litter or splints, and none of us 9,400' the East but the nature of the had EMT training. All in all, we Highest point on trail 9,580' rock and the protection certainly were lucky that the injury was Drop on trail to river 8,580' encourage you to push your stan- not life-threatening and that the Lonesome Lake 10,166' dards. Be forewarned, unless weather was good. Ricky felt Pingora Peak 11,884' either you or your partner can that a sprained ankle is within Wolf's Head 12,163' lead 5.9, you won't find very the normal risks of climbing and Pylon Peak 12,378' much to do at the New. that the pro and rope did what Mitchell Peak 12,482' In 1990, the great hazard at the they were supposed to do. We Big Sandy Trailhead 9,200' New was broken legs from will enjoyed the trip and would Jackass Pass 10,800' leader falls. In 1991, it was like to return some day. snakes [a few readers may Post-script: On our way out, we wish to skip to the next para- learned that Secretary of State graph]. Stuart Pregnall says this James Baker and Secretary of New River Gorge 1991 has something to do with the dry Defense Cheney, planned a by Tom Isaacson weather. During two visits to fishing trip in the same area of During 1991 I took eight trips to the hospital [for minor injuries] I the Winds up the North Fork the New, far more than in past heard many stories of snake Trail two weeks after we were years. Many of those were with bites at the New. Climbers are there using Allen's Diamond Doug Dupuie or Jeanette most likely to get bit on the Four Ranch as the outfitter. We Helfrich and John Rayner. Other hand while grabbing onto a left our business cards, of course. trip participants include: Jana ledge. Snakes also may reside Moreover, later we read that a Gill, Stuart Pregnall, Tom inside a crack. One pour soul number of administration offi- Halicki, Beth Logan, James was bitten twice by a copper- UP ROPE 12 head in his tent. Zip that fly! urtder development. Tom Halicki (5.11b) on a top-rope. Beth If you are bitten by a rattlesnake and I visited Summersville one Logan led a few 5.10s during her or a , walk -- don't cold, smokey day. The area has first year of climbing. Despite run -- to the car and go to the some good rock and is located climbing much less often than in hospital in Oak Hill. Keep your on the beach along the Gauley. the past, Stuart Pregnall put in a hands at the same height as your I wouldn't advise you to rush off powerful display at the Kaymoor heart. Don't fool around with to Summersville unless you're one day. John Rayner exhibited tourniquets or other gadgets. To either tired of the New or you his legendary slab climbing get to the hospital, take Route 19 can lead 5.1 1 . prowess on many routes and the South past Fayette, past the Another warning: don't camp unpumpable James Eakin hung Kroger Shopping Center, past near the bridge at the New. out longer than any other Holiday Inn and take the Main There are reports of climbers get- climber in recorded history in Street exit (right) into Oak Hill. ting beaten up by locals who leading Bat Crack, Doce Doe Follow this for a mile or so and have some weird attitudes about and a few others. As for myself, you'll see the Plateau Medical anyone spending the night there. while I managed to dramatically Center on your right. They have One of the campgrounds proba- improve my leading skills, taking antivenom on hand. You'll be bly will serve you better. many falls along the way, I hurt a okay unless you're allergic to the I could not possibly do justice to finger top-roping and hurt my stuff. all the achievements or glorious back sleeping. Like they say, "It's This Spring the Kaymoor area on failures of club members at the always something." See you the south side of the River was New this year. I remember at the New in 1992. developed. It now sports some Doug Dupuie flashing Sugar 60 routes, most of which are Bubbas (5.11a), Jana Gill follow- bolted and are at least 5.1 1 . ing it with ease, and Elizabeth Other areas, including the Erskine making In The Bag Meadow River and Summersville (5.11d) look easy. Jeanette (along the Gauley River) also are Helfrich flashed Smore Energy

C - 7 "*.:1!•"-1,'"--

1718 N Street, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20036

Joe H. Wagner 413',P o..indom Plare, Nw Washington DC 2.0cli

Limmunannum 1.,11.3H.WAW.A,111.1