Alpine Notes. 17U
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Cíl Všech Horolezccíl Všech Horolezců Na Vrchol Mont Blanc Vede Více Cest
Grandes Jorasses Dent du Géant Aiguille du Midi Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Maudit Mont Blanc Dôme du Goûter Aiguilles de Bionnassay 4208 m 4013 m 3842 m 4248 m 4465 m 4810 m 4304 m 4052 m Refuge des Refuge des Grands Mulets Refuge du Goûter Refuge de Tête Rousse Cosmiques 3051 m 3835 m 3167 m 3613 m Arête du Dôme La Jonction Plan de l’aiguille ! Uvědomte si nebezpečí Chamonix Nepleťte si obtížnost s nebezpečím. Nejrušnější cesty na Mont Blanc nejsou odborně řečeno nijak Plan de zvlášť náročné. Avšak vyskytují se na nich všechna nebezpečí spojená s tímto prostředím. Dosažení vrcholu Mont Blanc l'Aiguille 7 cest na vrchol Alp Pro snížení rizika začněte nejprve s identifikací nebezpečí terénu a monitorováním aktuálního stavu a možností členů vaší skupiny. Cíl všech horolezcCíl všech horolezců Na vrchol Mont Blanc vede více cest. St-Gervais- 3 les-Bains léphérique Té Nadmořská výška Vyzkoušet některou z méně klasických cest může být zábavné, zvláště v ruš- Pro nás horolezce, kteří kolikrát cestujeme tisíce kilometrů, abychom vylezli na vrchol nějším období. Techničtější pasáže vyžadují velké zkušenosti. Kvůli obtížnosti a Čím výše stoupáte, tím méně je kyslíku. les Houches AHN (akutní horská nemoc) je neustálou hrozbou. Bolest hlavy, Mont Blancu, je to něco víc než jen další vrchol v deníčku. Je to sen, někdy i legenda. Historie naší hlavně kvůli riziku expozice. TMB nespavost, dýchavičnost, nechutenství, pocit ucpaného nosu...hlavní příznaky se mohou objevit již v 3 500 m. vášně je vepsána do jeho svahů. Horlivé snažení, nedotčené svahy a elegantní štíty, přátelství na Nedá se dělat nic jiného, než se vrátit zpět. -
Note on the History of the Innominata Face of Mont Blanc De Courmayeur
1 34 HISTORY OF THE INNOMINATA FACE them difficult but solved the problem by the most exposed, airy and exhilarating ice-climb I ever did. I reckon sixteen essentially different ways to Mont Blanc. I wish I had done them all ! NOTE ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. 1. This was taken from the inner end of Col Eccles in 1921 during the ascent of Mont Blanc by Eccles' route. Pie Eccles is seen high on the right, and the top of the Aiguille Noite de Peteret just shows over the left flank of the Pie. FIG. 2. This was taken from the lnnominata face in 1919 during a halt at 13.30 on the crest of the branch rib. The skyline shows the Aiguille Blanche de Peteret on the extreme left (a snow cap), with Punta Gugliermina at the right end of what appears to be a level summit ridge but really descends steeply. On the right of the deep gap is the Aiguille Noire de Peteret with the middle section of the Fresney glacier below it. The snow-sprinkled rock mass in the right lower corner is Pie Eccles a bird's eye view. FIG. 3. This was taken at the same time as Fig. 2, with which it joins. Pie Eccles is again seen, in the left lower corner. To the right of it, in the middle of the view, is a n ear part of the branch rib, and above that is seen a bird's view of the Punta lnnominata with the Aiguille Joseph Croux further off to the left. -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
The Supreme Discipline of Mountaineering
The Supreme Discipline of Mountaineering To what heaven would it lead me to climb a mountain that flew? Christoph Ransmayr, “The Flying Mountain” MMM Corones on Kronplatz – between the Gader Valley, Olang and the Puster Valley – is the final act in the Messner Mountain Museum project (which comprises a total of six facilities). On the edge of South Tyrol’s mountain plateau with the most spectacular views, in the unique museum architecture created by Zaha Hadid, I present the crowning of traditional mountaineering. Kronplatz offers views beyond the borders of South Tyrol to all points of the compass: from the Lienz Dolomites in the east to the Ortler in the west, from the Marmolada in the south to the Zillertal Alps in the north. The museum is a mirror of the world of my childhood - the Geislerspitzen, the central buttress of the Heiligkreuzkofel (the most difficult climb in my whole life) and the glaciated granite mountains of the Ahrn Valley. On Kronplatz I present the development of modern mountaineering and 250 years of progress with regard to the equipment. I speak of triumphs and tragedies on the world’s most famous peaks – the Matterhorn, Cerro Torre, K2 – and the depiction of our activity, however contradictory it may seem. As in my other museums, I shed light on alpinism with the help of relics, thoughts, works of art (pictures and sculptures) and by reflecting the outside mountain backcloth in the interior of MMM Corones. As the storyteller of traditional mountaineering, it is not my intention to judge or dramatise but simply to condense human experience of a world that is my world, of the 250-year-old contest between man and the mountain. -
Zermatt, Switzerland)
Institut für Geologie Media release / 6 June 2018 Water transport to the Earth’s interior: Clues from high-pressure Alpine rocks (Zermatt, Switzerland) Water in the Earth’s interior influences many geological processes. The evolution of our planet and the development of life is tightly linked to the deep water cycle. Rocks from Zermatt (Switzerland) document formation at the ocean floor, followed by subduction to 80 km depth prior their incorporation into the Alpine belt. The detailed investigation of these rocks by researchers from the University of Bern provides evidence how and how much water can be incorporated in minerals at these subduction zone conditions and how water might be transported to even greater depth. The results are published in the journal “Geology”. The shallow water cycle that links atmosphere and hydrosphere is crucial for life on Earth. However, there exists also a deep water cycle in which water is transported over millions of years through the Earth’s interior. Hydrothermal alteration of oceanic crust results in the formation of minerals that incorporate water into the crystal structure. Through plate tectonics and subduction of such oceanic crust, the hydrous minerals are transported to increasingly greater depths. As the rocks are heated up during burial, the hydrous minerals break down at 50-100 km depth and are replaced by anhydrous minerals resulting in the liberation of the stored water. Would it be possible that traces of water are still incorporated into these newly formed minerals? Would this provide a mechanism to transport water to even greater depth and how would this influence the very long term, hundred million years water cycle? To answer these questions, PhD student Elias Kempf and Prof. -
La Pierre À Bosson
Aiguille du Aiguille du Passon Chardonnet Aiguille Aiguille 3 383 m 3 824 m Aiguille d’ Aiguille du du Tour Bec Rouge Argentière Génepi Purtscheller 3 529 m Bec Rouge Supérieur 3 900 m 3 265 m 3 478 m Pointes Inférieur 3 050 m Aiguille 2 841 m Pointe des Grands du Pissoir Bec de de Bron 3 102 m 3 441 m l’Achat 2 954 m 2 447 m Glacier du Tour Tête du Grand Chantet Y 1 967 m E Glacier d’ UR Argentière LE Point ÉC de vue P DE m 6701 MONTAGNE LE TOUR Le Bisme Pierre à Bosson MONTROC Départ 1365 m LE PLANET Gare Gîte Paravalanche Le Moulin ancien hôtel LES FRASSERANDS ARGENTIÈRE Arrivée L’Arve 1 250 m Arrêts de bus sérac. chute de formidable la à terminale langue sa de d’Argentière, glacier du d’ablation zone de vuesurl’ensemblede la superbe point un gagne crochet un Sur leparcours, Argentière en passant par le Planet, alternant vieil habitat, forêt et pentes fleuries. à Montroc de conduira vous qui demi-journée d’une balade agréable C’est une traversée traversée ponctuée de blocs prend fin au sommet en amont par une série de lacets. Une ultime dominés parleslysMartagon. d’épilobes champ large : florales espèces aux belle part la épicéas laissent des couvert du libérées pentes Ces Argentière. vers descente de chemin du lecroisement avec coïncide dernier et leplusvaste des couloirs d’avalanche, redoutables Le en hiver. Bosson, la forêt est régulièrement coupée par ! àraconter deshistoires enaurait :il mélèze très vieux un adossé à banc le de s’asseoir sur delamontagnePéclerey. -
In Memoriam 115
IN MEMORIAM 115 • IN MEMORIAM CLAUDE WILSON 1860-1937 THE death of Claude Wilson within a few weeks of attaining his seventy-seventh birthday came as a terrible shock to his many friends. Few of us even knew that he was ill, but in the manner of his passing none can regret that there was no lingering illness. We can but quote his own words in Lord Conway's obituary: 'the best we can wish for those that we love is that they may be spared prolonged and hopeless ill health.' His brain remained clear up to the last twenty-four hours and he suffered no pain. The end occurred on October 31. With Claude Wilson's death an epoch of mountaineering comes to an end. He was of those who made guideless and Alpine history from Montenvers in the early 'nineties, of whom but Collie, Kesteven, Bradby, ~olly and Charles Pasteur still survive. That school, in which Mummery and Morse were perhaps the most prominent examples, was not composed of specialists. Its members had learnt their craft under the best Valais and Oberland guides; they were equally-proficient on rocks or on snow. It mattered little who was acting as leader in the ascent or last man in the descent. They were prepared to turn back if conditions or weather proved unfavourable. They took chances as all mountaineers are forced to do at times but no fatal accidents, no unfortunate incidents, marred that great page of Alpine history, a page not confined to Mont Blanc alone but distributed throughout the Western Alps. -
British Alpine Ski Traverse 1972 Peter Cliff 13
British Alpine Ski Traverse 1972 Peter Cliff In 1956 the Italian guide Waiter Bonatti traversed the Alps with three others on skis from the JuIian Alps to the French Riviera. This was followed in 1965 by Denis Bertholet and an international party of guides who started near Innsbruck and finished at Grenoble. In 1970 Robert Kittl with three other Austrians completed a very fast crossing in 40 days. The challenge for us was twofold: we were to be the first British party, and whereas the others had been predominantly professional guides we were all amateurs. The route we took was from Kaprun, s of Salzburg, to Gap, which is between Nice and Grenoble. The straight line distance was 400 miles (by comparison the straight line distance for the normal Haute Route between Argentiere and Zermatt is 40 miles), and we ascended at least 120,000 ft excluding uphill transport. It took 49 days including halts. The party was: Alan BIackshaw (leader), Michael de Pret Roose (deputy leader and route Klosters to Zermatt), Fl-Lt Dan Drew RAF (food), Peter Judson (equipment), Dr Hamish Nicol (medical), Lt-Col John Peacock REME (route Chamonix to Gap), Dick Sykes (finance) and myself (route Zermatt to Chamonix). On the first section to the Brenner pass we had with us Waiter Mann, who had been very much involved with the planning ofthe whole Austrian section. Support in the field was provided by Brig Gerry Finch and Major David Gore in a Range Rover. The other people who were closely involved were the members of the BBC TV team who filmed a good part of . -
Harvard Mountaineering 3
HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING 1931·1932 THE HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CAMBRIDGE, MASS. ~I I ' HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING 1931-1932 THE HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CAMBRIDGE, MASS . THE ASCENT OF MOUNT FAIRWEATHER by ALLEN CARPE We were returning from the expedition to Mount Logan in 1925. Homeward bound, our ship throbbed lazily across the Gulf of Alaska toward Cape Spencer. Between reefs of low fog we saw the frozen monolith of St. Elias, rising as it were sheer out of the water, its foothills and the plain of the Malaspina Glacier hidden behind the visible sphere of the sea. Clouds shrouded the heights of the Fairweather Range as we entered Icy Strait and touched at Port Althorp for a cargo of salmon; but I felt then the challenge of this peak which was now perhaps the outstanding un climbed mOUlitain in America, lower but steeper than St. Elias, and standing closer to tidewater than any other summit of comparable height in the world. Dr. William Sargent Ladd proved a kindred spirit, and in the early summer of 1926 We two, with Andrew Taylor, made an attempt on the mountain. Favored by exceptional weather, we reached a height of 9,000 feet but turned back Photo by Bradford Washburn when a great cleft intervened between the but tresses we had climbed and the northwest ridge Mount Fairweather from the Coast Range at 2000 feet of the peak. Our base was Lituya Bay, a beau (Arrows mark 5000 and 9000-foot camps) tiful harbor twenty miles below Cape Fair- s camp at the base of the south face of Mount Fair weather; we were able to land near the foot of the r weather, at 5,000 feet. -
Ivrea Mantle Wedge, Arc of the Western Alps, and Kinematic Evolution of the Alps–Apennines Orogenic System
Swiss J Geosci DOI 10.1007/s00015-016-0237-0 Ivrea mantle wedge, arc of the Western Alps, and kinematic evolution of the Alps–Apennines orogenic system 1 1 1 2 Stefan M. Schmid • Eduard Kissling • Tobias Diehl • Douwe J. J. van Hinsbergen • Giancarlo Molli3 Received: 6 June 2016 / Accepted: 9 December 2016 Ó Swiss Geological Society 2017 Abstract The construction of five crustal-scale profiles related to the lateral indentation of the Ivrea mantle slice across the Western Alps and the Ivrea mantle wedge towards WNW by some 100–150 km. (4) The final stage of integrates up-to-date geological and geophysical informa- arc formation (25–0 Ma) is associated with orogeny in the tion and reveals important along strike changes in the Apennines leading to oroclinal bending in the southern- overall structure of the crust of the Western Alpine arc. most Western Alps in connection with the 50° counter- Tectonic analysis of the profiles, together with a review of clockwise rotation of the Corsica-Sardinia block and the the existing literature allows for proposing the following Ligurian Alps. Analysis of existing literature data on the multistage evolution of the arc of the Western Alps: (1) Alps–Apennines transition zone reveals that substantial exhumation of the mantle beneath the Ivrea Zone to shal- parts of the Northern Apennines formerly suffered Alpine- low crustal depths during Mesozoic is a prerequisite for the type shortening associated with an E-dipping Alpine sub- formation of a strong Ivrea mantle wedge whose strength duction zone and were backthrusted to the NE during exceeds that of surrounding mostly quartz-bearing units, Apenninic orogeny that commences in the Oligocene. -
ALPINE NOTES. Date of the ALPINE CLUB OBITUARY: Election
Alpine Notes . 381 The Triglav 'N. Face' is between 700 and 800 rrL high in t hat portion traversed by the ' Jug' route, and for the first three parts of the route it is almost sheer. Great smooth slabs, occurring in successive series, constitute the special and characteristic difficulty. The climb occupied 16 hours in all. F . S. C. ALPINE NOTES. Date of THE ALPINE CLUB OBITUARY: Election Allport, D . W. • • • • • • • 1875 Colgrove, J. B . • • • • • • • 1876 Morse, Sir George H. • • • • • • 1887 Holmes, .Alfred • • • • • • • 1894 Shea, C. E .. • • • • • • • 1896 Nicholson, L. D . • • • • • • 1902 Candler, H. • • • • • • • 1905 Collin, T. • • • • • • • • 1907 Schofield, J . W. • • • • • • 1907 Drake, Canon F. W. • • • • • • 1908 Kidd, Canon J. H . • • • • • • 1921 Morshead, Lt.-Col. H. T. • • • • • 1922 Painter, A. R. • • • • • • • 1923 Wright, W. A. • • • • • • • 1925 Peto, R . H . K . • • • • • • • 1929 THE CLOSING OF THE ITALIAN ALPS. If a little easier in fre _quented districts during t he height of summer, there are no real signs of improvement in the general situation, which continues to be unsatisfactory. During the C.A.I. Congress at Botzen, the President announced that 18 passes, hitherto closed, would be open between t he Stelvio and Pontebba in 1932. The S.A.C. and letters of t he REv. W. A. B. CooLIDGE. The Librarian of the S.A.C. Central Library, Zurich, requests us to announce that, ' together with the Alpine portion of Mr. Coolidge's library, the S.A.C. has collected during the course of the year, in their library at Zurich, many letters belonging to that distinguished mountaineer. It is true that Mr. -
Alpine Adventures 2019 68
RYDER WALKER THE GLOBAL TREKKING SPECIALISTS ALPINE ADVENTURES 2019 68 50 RYDER WALKER ALPINE ADVENTURES CONTENTS 70 Be the first to know. Scan this code, or text HIKING to 22828 and receive our e-newsletter. We’ll send you special offers, new trip info, RW happenings and more. 2 RYDERWALKER.COM | 888.586.8365 CONTENTS 4 Celebrating 35 years of Outdoor Adventure 5 Meet Our Team 6 Change and the Elephant in the Room 8 Why Hiking is Important – Watching Nature 10 Choosing the Right Trip for You 11 RW Guide to Selecting Your Next Adventure 12 Inspired Cuisine 13 First Class Accommodations 14 Taking a Closer Look at Huts 15 Five Reasons Why You Should Book a Guided Trek 16 Self-Guided Travel 17 Guided Travel & Private Guided Travel EASY TO MODERATE HIKING 18 Highlights of Switzerland: Engadine, Lago Maggiore, Zermatt 20 England: The Cotswolds 22 Isola di Capri: The Jewel of Southern Italy NEW 24 French Alps, Tarentaise Mountains: Bourg Saint Maurice, Sainte Foy, Val d’Isère 26 Sedona, Arches & Canyonlands 28 Croatia: The Dalmatian Coast 28 30 Engadine Trek 32 Scotland: Rob Roy Way 34 Montenegro: From the Durmitor Mountain Range to the Bay of Kotor 36 New Mexico: Land of Enchantment, Santa Fe to Taos NEW 38 Slovakia: Discover the Remote High Tatras Mountains NEW MODERATE TO CHALLENGING HIKING 40 Heart of Austria 42 Italian Dolomites Trek 44 High Peaks of the Bavarian Tyrol NEW 46 Sicily: The Aeolian Islands 48 Rocky Mountain High Life: Aspen to Telluride 50 New Brunswick, Canada: Bay of Fundy 52 Via Ladinia: Italian Dolomites 54 Dolomiti di