Cayapas is ’s most bird-rich protected area. Because of their diversity and appeal, hummingbirds are the stars. In the image, a Rufous-tailed hummingbird. Contents

This brochure offers a panoramic view of the biological and cultural diversity of Cotacachi Cayapas Ecological Reserve (CCER), as well as practical information for the visitor: a geographic and a tourist map, sites you do not want to miss, outstanding tourist activities, some useful recommendations for your trip, and a directory of services.

2 Map of Ecuador’s Natural Heritage Sites (PANE)

4 Cotacachi Cayapas Ecological Reserve A mantle of life spread over Andean ranges

10 Geographic map of the Reserve

12 Faces and traces Diversity and syncretism: the Kichwas, Chachis, and Afros of the Cotacachi Cayapas

16 Tourist map

18 Not to be missed

22 Things to do

26 Getting there

28 Directory

32 List of outstanding wildlife species b GALÁPAGOS

1 GALÁPAGOS NATIONAL PARK GALÁPAGOS MARINE RESERVE 2 16 PACIFIC COAST 2 18 3 GALERA SAN FRANCISCO MARINE RESERVE 17 Colombia Esmeraldas 4 5 MANGLARES CHURUTE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 1 26 6 MACHE CHINDUL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Pto. Baquerizo 3 Moreno 20 Tulcán 7 25 SANTA CLARA ISLAND WILDLIFE REFUGE 8 8 MUISNE RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE 6 9 EL SALADO MANGROVES FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE Ibarra 44 10 SANTA ELENA PENINSULA MARINE FAUNA WILDLIFE REFUGE 11 EL MORRO MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE 27 Nueva Loja 0o 12 PACOCHE WILDLIFE REFUGE 13 PARQUE LAGO NATIONAL RECREATION AREA 39 40 14 ARENILLAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 15 ISLAS CORAZÓN Y FRAGATAS WILDLIFE REFUGE 28 16 CAYAPAS MATAJE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Sto. Domingo 41 N 45 17 ESMERALDAS RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE Francisco 15 24 30 de Orellana 18 LA CHIQUITA WILDLIFE REFUGE WE 31 29 19 ISLA SANTAY AND ISLA DEL GALLO NATIONAL RECREATION AREA S 20 PAMBILAR WILDLIFE RESERVE 21 LOS SAMANES NATIONAL RECREATION AREA Tena 12 22 PLAYAS DE VILLAMIL NATIONAL RECREATION AREA 37 42 23 EL PELADO MARINE RESERVE

COAST - Ambato 32 24 LOS ILINIZAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 4 Puyo 25 COTACACHI CAYAPAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Guaranda ANDES Riobamba 38 26 EL ÁNGEL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 23 21 27 PULULAHUA GEOBOTANICAL RESERVE 10 28 PASOCHOA WILDLIFE RESERVE 13 19 29 ANTISANA ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Santa Elena 9 30 EL BOLICHE NATIONAL RECREATION AREA 31 11 NATIONAL PARK 5 Macas Perú 32 CHIMBORAZO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE 22 33 CAJAS NATIONAL PARK 34 YACURI NATIONAL PARK 33 Azogues 35 QUIMSACOCHA NATIONAL RECREATION AREA Pacific Ocean 35 ANDES - AMAZON 7 Cuenca

36 37 LLANGANATES NATIONAL PARK 47 38 NATIONAL PARK 14 46 39 COCA NATIONAL PARK MAP of AMAZON 43

40 CUYABENO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE NATURAL HERITAGE SITES 41 LIMONCOCHA BIOLOGICAL RESERVE Loja Zamora 42 YASUNÍ NATIONAL PARK Patrimonio de Áreas Naturales del Estado, PANE 36 43 EL ZARZA WILDLIFE REFUGE 44 COFÁN BERMEJO ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 45 SUMACO NAPO-GALERAS NATIONAL PARK 46 EL CÓNDOR BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 34 48 100 km 47 EL QUIMI BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 48 CERRO PLATEADO BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 3 The páramos surrounding volcano Cotacachi are favoured by trekkers. Cotacachi Cayapas Ecological Reserve

A mantle of life spread over Andean ranges

One of Ecuador’s few reserves including western forests toward the Coast and the mountainous areas of the Andes, this is among the areas with the greatest ecosystem diversity in the country.

een on the map, the Cotacachi Capayas Ecological Reserve (CCER) Biodiversity and endemism in the CCER* is a large area in the coastal province S RECC % of Ecuador % of national of Esmeraldas with a narrow extension that The heart of the Reserve is a no. of species endemism no. of species total reaches the Andean range in the highland virtually impenetrable area, one of na- Flora 2,107 19.4 15,306 13.0 province of Imbabura. On the ground, CCER ture’s sanctuaries where life, in all its Mammals 139 9.4 380 36.6 offers a rare combination of exuberant rain- diversity, abounds. At the same time, Birds 777 12.4 1,616 48.0 forests and páramos, with an impressive the edges of the Reserve offer a num- Amphibians 124 38.0 464 26.7 range of rivers, mineral baths, lakes, and for- ber of accessible areas of great inter- est to the tourist, including foothills evergreen forest, lowlands evergreen forest, lowlands evergreen ests that extend from 38 meters above sea Ecosystems mountain forest, highlands evergreen mountain forest, mountain cloud level in the tropical region to 4,939 meters at Lagoon, Mount Cotacachi, the lagoons forest, gelidophyita y páramo the peak of Mount Cotacachi. of Piñán, and the San Miguel Waterfall. * These figures are, of necessity, estimates and subject to change. Source: MAE, 2010; Sierra, 1999.

4 5 The diverse ecosystem in the Reserve includes the White-tailed Deer in the páramo, the Toucan Barbet in the cloud forest (below left), and the giant trees of the tropical rain forest (below right). Access points for exploring the Reserve 1) The river port of Borbón, on the Cayapas River in the north of Esmeraldas (low area). 2) Naranjito, an hour from Pedro Vicente Maldonado in the province of (low area). 3) The subtropical parishes of Cotacachi and counties in Imbabura (low area). 4) In the north of Imbabura, between Ibarra and Lita (high area).

The CCER is one of the most diverse, if not the most diverse, protected area in the country. While there are others, especially in the Amazon, with a greater number of species, the quantity of different microclimates here is amazing. At least three major ecosystems –humid forest, humid mountain forest, and humid páramos– are found here, each corner contributing to the mosaic’s variety. The minuscule flowers that you can find in the CCER change from one páramo to the next, and the orchids and bromeliads that hang from the ancient trees are different on either side of the Toisán range. This diversity is also evident, for example, in the extraordinarily high proportion of amphibians that live here and that are not found anywhere else (38%!), and in the confirmed presence of 685 bird species, making this protected area the richest in bird life in Ecuador’s entire protected areas system.

Each immense tree in the rainforest is a complete ecosystem. The branches are covered with multiple species of mosses, lianas, ferns, orchids, and bromeliads. Within each bromeliad, pools are formed in which insects and tadpoles live.

6 7 Cotacachi volcano’s summit (4,939 masl) is the highest COTACACHI CAYAPAS IN BRIEF point in the Reserve and a fine Location: Eloy Alfaro and Rio Verde counties medium-difficulty challenge for mountaineers. (); Cotacachi and Urcuquí counties (). Area: 243,638 hectares Altitude range: 38 to 4,939 masl Climate: 4 to 24 ºC Nearby settlements: High area, Imbabura province: Cotacachi and Íntag. Low area, Esmeraldas province: Las Golondrinas (Quinindé county), Borbón (Eloy Alfaro county) Year the Reserve was created: 1968

The range of activities that such an exuberant geography offers is equally wide: mountain climbing, cycling, camping, trekking, rafting, bathing in mineral waters, bird watching, swimming in the fords of rivers, to mention only the most common. Most of the places where these activities are on offer are in the buffer zone, where resi- dents have found to be a sustainable way to take advantage of the area’s riches.

The Chocó: networks of life

The Cotacachi Cayapas Ecological Reserve is part of the Chocó biogeographic region, a forested strip of land along the Pacific Ocean stretching from Panama to the north of Peru. Its more than 187,000 square kilometers are believed to be among the wettest and most biodiverse in the world. Due to its endemism, that is, the number of species found only here, the Chocó is a priority region for conservation. Alto Chocó, Río Palenque, and dozens of other In Ecuador, the Cotacachi Cayapas is part forests included in the subsystem of private of a network of public, private, and commu- protected areas. nity reserves whose purpose is to save these In the Andes, the lagoons of Piñán and Adminitratively, the CCER is divided into a high forests. The reserves include those of the Awá Cuicocha, both within the CCER, as well as area (in Imbabura; including Yanahurco and (community); the Mache Chindul, Cayapas Yahuarcocha, San Pablo, and the Cajas Cotacachi peaks, and the Piñán and Cuicocha Mataje, Manglares-Río Muisne, Manglares- lagoons, make up an integrated system of wet- lagoons) and a low area (in Esmeraldas, including Río Emeraldas, La Chiquita, Los Cedros, and lands. A variety of aquatic birds weaves an the Andean flanks and the upper watersheds of the El Pambilar (state); El Chontal, , invisible network that joins these bodies of water. San Miguel, Cayapas, and Santiago rivers).

8 9 78°50'0"W 78°40'0"W 78°30'0"W 78°20'0"W 78°10'0"W

Playa de Oro San José de Cayapas approach N Lita to Reserve Banco de Arena Las Peñas PROVINCE OF CARCHI O E L it 0°50'0"N Negro a 0°50'0"N S PROVINCE OF ESMERALDAS o city g a i village Telembí t n

a interest site S Panam. Highway i San Miguel m secondary road e PROVINCE OF IMBABURA t c river s o a River access T p Carolina vía secundaria a y to Reserve a railway C L Reserve limit ita summit Corriente Larga Elevation chas ca Sa La lan n M a B igu 0°40'0"N Hoj el 0°40'0"N

P u n C i y a a y c a u p a s La Merced de

o Buenos Aires Agua d R COTACACHI CAYAPAS C u a la b r r n ECOLOGICAL RESERVE MAP a a g B e Sources: ETI 2011; Jarvis, 2008; Lima y Mena s/f; MAE 2011 / Credits: S. Crespo, P. Cabrera, X. Cordovez Ecuador Terra Incognita

Palac Piñán ara Lagoons Piñán L. Tobar Donoso Yanahurco 0°30'0"N 0°30'0"N e Tarmuayacu g n El Rosario a R Guananín

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s n a

i á p o ñ approach o i t T P s ToTulcán i to Reserve r C Urcuquí

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a g d u l Peñaherrera g ví Ibarra 0°20'0"N a Aza 0°20'0"N M bí

Vacas Galindo Cotacachi Brillasol L. Cuicocha access to Reserve

T i Imbabura g an 0 5 10 20 km a g b t Íntag alí 4 630 m n m Í A To Quito

78°50'0"W 78°40'0"W 78°30'0"W 78°20'0"W 78°10'0"W Both the Chachi and Afro marimba in the lowlands and the Kichwa airs in the Faces the trip upriver takes six hours. It is a pleasant Andes are renowned representatives of and traces journey in which one enjoys the foliage of Ecuadorean music. chíperos, figs, and hundreds of other tree species along the banks. You can see mon- keys and birds that appear on the river’s edge and converse with people at the Chachi, Afro, and mestizo docks at which the canoe stops to pick up passengers. San Miguel, at the edge of the Reserve, is a good base from which to explore the Cotacachi Cayapas. The black community of Esmeraldas Diversity and arrived in the 16th century. The first groups syncretism: the are believed to have been made up of African prisoners whose slave ships ran aground Kichwas, Chachis, on the coast of Esmeraldas. Gradually, other groups arrived during the 17th century to work and Afros of the as slaves, for example, in the mines of Playa Cotacachi Cayapas de Oro. The marimba of Esmeraldas, the most representative musical expression of the

The Kichwas understand the language of the mountain and the Chachis and Afros know the secrets of the river and the forest. These are the three major ethnic groups living in the CCER’s buffer zone.

Life on the banks of the river In recent years, the city of Cotacachi has he life of Afroecuadorean and Chachi been recognized as communities flows along the Cayapas an example of local TRiver. The canoe, the major means of administration with transport, is a vital element in the community’s citizen participation. It existence. On board, people meet, cacao trav- is famous for its leather els to the city of Esmeraldas, and crafts are sent to the region’s markets. For the visitor, crafts and for its the canoe is a great place to chat with locals, carnes coloradas (beef exchanging stories. prepared with a special From the river port of Borbón to San marinade), a delicious Miguel, two Afroecuadorean communities, typical dish.

12 13 The canoe is a vital element for Chachis and Afroecuadoreans who live on the Cayapas River. The Chachis believe that even the spirits move about in canoes.

black population, is a clear demonstration of this community’s African cultural roots. The Chachis are the ancient residents of the Cayapas River basin. The chroni- clers of the Spanish conquest called these people “Cayapas,” using the name of one of their chiefs. However, beginning in 1967, members of this community have been de- manding that the word “Chachi,” meaning “people,” be used to refer to them and the river along with they live. The peaceful coexistence between indigenous Chachi and Afro communities, which includes numerous intercultural mar- riages, has given way to a number of examples of syncretism: the combination of elements Black and Chachi communities of the traditions of different cultures. One ex- get along with their lives at the ample is the adoption of and preference for Capas River banks. the marimba, a quintessential African musical instrument, by the Chachis. Because this is a rainforest region, trade in lumber has been the major source of the central plaza of Cotacachi, a community Festival of the Sun. The celebrations also take sustenance for a long time. However, initia- Ritual and community, Cotacachi’s located twelve kilometers from the lagoon, place in Cuicocha in June and July. tives, such as cacao production, state pro- Otavalo-Kichwa people the outstanding tourist attraction in the In Cotacachi, a major crafts center, grams to provide economic compensation province of Imbabura. community tourism has flourished, be- for communities that conserve native forest, When the rain lets up and the sunny period It is on this date that the region’s Kichwa coming an alternative that brings tourists and tourism are providing new hope for the approaches, Otavalo-Kichwa residents tradition is most evident as great groups of to the captivating sites in the region, and population. In this respect, the communities of La Calera and other communities sur- dancers and musicians from surrounding is, above all, a way of life that privileges of San Miguel and Loma Linda take great rounding the Cuicocha Lagoon prepare for communities descend on Cotacachi, inter- the community over the individual, bal- pains to offer the tourist good service in an the summer solstice and the fiesta season, preting for days on end Sanjuanitos, the ance with nature over exploitation, and authentic community ambience. the high point of which is the “taking” of traditional musicial genre of Inti Raymi, or the ritual over pragmatism.

14 15 Lita Playa de Oro ro approach eg San José de Cayapas N to Reserve Las Peñas ora hot spring information lodging restaurant camping bird watching

L Mira i t a PROVINCE OF ESMERALDAS fauna lookout point forest excursion volcano touristic ciclyng

To San Lorenzo

River access o

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to Reserve Telembí a community i lagoon climbing horse riding train station

t tourism

n a

San Miguel S

s Carolina a p a city y Guallupe a PROVINCE village C OF CARCHI interest site Panam. highway L ach main road Corriente Larga as secondary road S an PROVINCE OF IMBABURA trail M ig railway u e province limit l river La Merced de Buenos Aires protected area summit A g u COTACACHI CAYAPAS a ECOLOGICAL RESERVE MAP C l a Sources: ETI 2011; Jarvis 2008; Lima y Mena s/f; r a MAE 2011 / Credits: E. Garcés y X. Cordovez

Ecuador Terra Incognita o

d

u

b

r Piñán

a B Yanahurco Piñán Tarmuayacu Lagoons El Rosario Guananín To Tulcán

approach Urcuquí to Reserve Cuellaje approach to Reserve Naranjal Cotacachi 4 939 m e Imantag ng Apuela Ra Plaza Gutiérrez Toisán L. Yaguarcocha San Lorenzo Peñaherrera Quito-Ibarra: 115 km Yanayacu Ibarra Quito-Esmeraldas: 318 km Atuntaqui Esmeraldas hot spring Cotacachi Vacas

g Galindo L. Cuicocha a t n Imbabura Í 4 630 m Pto. Íntag Ibarra access Quito Cotacachi To Quito N Otavalo Selva Alegre to Reserve García Moreno Otavalo O E L. San Pablo St. Domingo Quito S

PROVINCE OF PICHINCHA Not to be Cuicocha Lagoon; it takes six hours to get see rabbits, hawks, and even condors. gravel road from Pedro Vicente Maldonado. missed to the rocky base at 4,850 masl. Here the The Tobar Donoso Lagoon is an hour on In this area of forest landscapes along the climber begins the ascent to the two-peaked foot from the community of Piñán, itself Naranjito River, there are two community summit, the CCER’s highest point. Appropri- four hours from Ibarra in a four-wheel inns offering lodging, food, tours, and fish- ate equipment is needed for this last stretch. drive vehicle. See the Directory for tour ing excursions. The best time to visit is the Information on tour operators is included in operators who go to Piñán. dry season, during the last three months the Directory below. of the year (see Directory).

In the Reserve Piñán páramos and lagoons The Íntag Valley Mount Cotacachi (4,939 masl) Walking among mirrors Buffer zone The mountain becomes The sentry with two peaks he singular landscape of the páramos, forest Twith their golden fields of straw and Naranjito t is said that this volcano has three fac- their lagoons are also part of the CCER. In wo hours from Otavalo along the road Ies, visible from different angles: the the Piñán area, between 3,500 and 4,000 Rivers and primary forest in Tto García Moreno or from Cuicocha mother, serious and somewhat aged; the meters above sea level, there are large northwestern Ecuador Lagoon en route to Íntag, visitors come to taita (Kichwa for father), solemn and severe; remnants of Andean forest, with polylepis, the parishes of Apuela and Cuellaje, bends and the huarmi (woman), the girl with the or paper, trees, and other characteristic idden in the tropical region on the in the Andes in northwestern Ecuador. In turned-up nose. The climb up the volcano species, such as myrtle and alder. Going Hwestern edge of the CCER, one gets places where the mountainous landscape begins at the trail flanked with pines on to the lagoons, along a dirt road, you can to Naranjito, a one-hour bus ride along a receives the influence of the tropical

The Piñán lagoons offer a magnificent setting for horseback touring.

18 19 climate, unique landscapes are created, marked by forests and waterfalls. From Apuela, where lodging is available, we can visit nearby coffee farms, the Wariman ar- chaeological site, and the community of El Rosal, where aloe vera and craft items are produced. In Cuellaje, adventure sports are on offer (see Directory).

Lita Land of waterfalls, fruit, and orchids

n the western flanks of the mountain O range, where the provinces of Imbabura and Esmeraldas meet, the rivers create an endless series of sites where visitors can en- joy themselves. At different points, the Baboso, Cristal, and Verde rivers form waterfalls and pools ideal for swimming and other water sports. The fertility of the land is evident by vendors along the highway offering delicious local fruit: custard apples, naranjilla, ovitos, and, with some persistence, one can find the spectacular ceviche made of banana flowers.

The Spectacled or Andean Bear is the only bear in South America and is an 20 emblematic species of the 21Reserve. Cuicocha with the Cayambe (left) and Antisana (right) volcanos in the background. Things to do

Upper area Hot baths and subtropical forest in Nangulví

he community of Nangulví is located in Walk around Cuicocha Tthe Íntag region, about 65 kilometers Lagoon from Otavalo, at an altitude of 1,300 masl and an average temperature of 25ºC. t an altitude of 3,086 meters, this lagoon This site has become the preferred base Ais located in the far southeast of the for travelers who want to travel around CCER. Its two islets are filled with trees cov- the Íntag valley, especially because here ered in mosses, lichens, and bromeliads. you will find lodging and hot baths. You There is no consensus regarding the name can camp, soak in the five mineral water of the lagoon; some say that it comes from pools, rent bicycles, go horseback riding, the fact that one of the islets is shaped like fishing, rafting in the Íntag river, and ride a guinea pig (cuy is Kichwa for guinea pig), a canopy zipline in Gualimán. The commu- and others say that it is due to the fact that nity offers tours of up to three days with Low area the animal lives on the islets and in sur- visits to the Gualimán archaeological cen- rounding communities. The self-guiding trail ter and agroecological farms in the area, around the lake offers a number of possi- especially coffee farms. Trekking, fauna watching, and bilities: from the short two-hour walk to the the river landscapes in San seven hours needed to circle the entire la- From Otavalo, take a bus run by goon (about 14 kilometers). It is very impor- the 6 de Julio or Transportes Otavalo Miguel tant that visitors do not walk off the trail and cooperatives, en route to García Moreno. Buses leave the terminal at 7:00am, n hour by boat upriver along the Cayapas damage the delicate flora, and that they not 10:00am, 12:00pm, and 2:00pm. The fare is from the community of San Miguel, the leave garbage behind or light fires. A US$ 2.25 (to the hotbaths). Though Nangulví traveler will come to Charco Vicente, the edge is not that far, the road is unpaved, and the of the CCER. From there, a trail leads to the Take a bus to Otavalo and, from there, another ride takes around two-and-a-half hours. San Miguel Waterfall. The walk through the to Cotacachi (Quito-Otavalo fare: US$ 2, Otavalo- Lodging, US$ 20 per person (includes Cotacachi US$ 1). In Cotacachi’s central plaza you food and entrance to the pools). rainforest takes eight hours, and the visi- can hire a pickup truck to go up to the lagoon. (06) 264 8291 tor will see trees characteristic of the area, (US$ 7 for up to ten passengers.) www.termasnangulvi.com such as the lignum vitae (guayacán salero) CCER Office in Cotacachi, (06) 291 5986. [email protected] Stroling inside yahual forests and the chanul, both fine tropical wood offers a shelter from the harsh 22 páramo climate. 23 Capuchins are one of the Canyoning enthusiasts three species of monkeys find their dreamland you can see at the Reserve. in Cotacachi Cayapas’ many rivers. species. With luck, you will also see howler monkeys. An hour from San Miguel are the falls of the Bravo River, a natural barrier to human settlement that marks the border of the Reserve. Enormous rocks create the falls, providing a powerful spectacle. San Miguel’s Afroecuadorean community, on a hill with a beautiful river view, provides transport service, local guides, food, and lodging.

Take a canoe from the community of San Miguel. Canoe rental, US$ 50; local guide, US$ 25. It is a good idea to organize a group excursion in order to share expenses. Community of San Miguel (see Directory).

Bird watching at Playa de Oro

laya de Oro is a community located to Pthe north of San Miguel, on the banks of the Santiago River. The community has designed a four-day visit in the forest, in- cluding bird watching and a visit to the vestiges of old mining installations. This is the lowest point in the CCER buffer zone. The community is near the Reserve and this is one of the areas where the tropical forest remains unchanged.

Take a bus from Borbón to Selva Alegre (09:30 am, 3:30 pm, and 5:30 pm), and from Selva Alegre sail two hours upriver on the Santiago. Four-day tours, from US $150 to 200 per person. Playa de Oro community (see Directory).

24 25 and thus boiling or the use of purification • Huge numbers of people visit Cuicocha. Getting there tablets is recommended. It is very important to stay on trails in or- der not to have an impact on forests and • It is important that visitors swim in rivers páramos as these take decades to regene- and approach waterfalls only at sites with rate. Do not introduce motorized vehicles signs indicating that they are open to the- in these places outside of areas where se activities, or after consulting with local they are allowed. residents, to avoid risks associated with the current. Money matters

When to visit Only cash payments for community tourism services are accepted. In the In the low area, the winter rainy season is CCER’s high area, the last places offering from October to May. While there is more automatic tellers are the cities of Otavalo, rain during this period, travel by river is also Cotacachi, and Ibarra. In the low area, the Otavalo: Transportes Otavalo Transportation easier. In the high area, around Imbabura, last place with automatic tellers is the city To go to Cotacachi’s subtropical parishes the driest period is from June to September. of Esmeraldas. The traveler can get to the CCER in three (06) 292 2951 In the Naranjito area, near Pedro Vicente Cotacachi: Cooperativa 6 de Julio provinces: to the lower part from Esmeraldas, Maldonado, the rain pattern is less predic- Important contact information to the upper part from Imbabura, and to To go to Cotacachi’s subtropical parishes table but, in general, the driest months fall (06) 291 5016 Naranjito via San Vicente Maldonado, in at the end of the year. Borbón: La Costeñita Pichincha. In Esmeraldas, the major access - 1 800 TURISMO (1 800 887 476) To go to Selva Alegre (06) 278 6294 point is Borbón, a river port located in the San Lorenzo: La Costeñita Sustainable - Cotacachi Cayapas Ecological Reserve, north of the province. In Imbabura, there are To go to Borbón or Las Peñas tourism tips Cotacachi: (06) 291 5986 a number of access points, depending on (06) 278 1119 where the visitor wants to go, but in general, • Avoid the use of disposable products. Borbón: (06) 278 6029 the cities of Otavalo, Cotacachi, and Ibarra Safety and health Specifically, choose canteens and bottles - Ministry of Tourism, Ibarra (06) 295 8547 are the places to begin exploring the Reser- for all types of liquids over disposable plas- tic bottles as their use creates a serious - Municipality of Cotacachi: (06) 291 5115 ve. Below (and in the Directory), the reader • In both the high and low areas of the CCER, it is problem both inside and in places around will find transportation instructions for each recommended that excursions be accompanied - Bus terminal of Carcelén, Quito: protected areas. destination or activity. by guides. This is especially important when clim- (02) 381 4810 bing Mount Cotacachi or exploring the primary forest of the low area as it is easy for visitors to • Nowhere in protected areas should - Bus terminal, Ibarra: (06) 264 4676 Quito: Carcelén Bus Station get lost.. For this same reason, it is important to hunting, fishing, the collecting of flora and For trips north: Esmeraldas via Los Bancos, - Hospital, Cotacachi: (06) 291 5118 stay on self-guided trails and to follow the signs. fauna, or the introduction of exotic species San Lorenzo, Pedro Vicente Maldonado, take place. - Health center, Borbón: (06) 278 6545 Cotacachi, Ibarra. (02) 396 1600. • In the low area, around Esmeraldas and in - Police, Cotacachi: (06) 291 4400 Quito: Quitumbe Bus Station all subtropical areas, using biodegradable in- • In the CCER’s páramos, around Cuicocha For trips south: Esmeraldas via Santo sect and mosquito repellant is a good idea. Lagoon, Mount Cotacachi, and the lagoons of - Police, Borbón: (06) 278 6300 Domingo de los Tsáchilas, Borbón This will prevent both annoying bites and the Piñán, extreme care must be taken to avoid (02) 398 8200. possibility of getting a tropical disease. forest fires: do not drop burning matches, ci- Ibarra: Bus Terminal garette butts, or any other object that could Entrance to every continental protected area of the PANE is To go to San Lorenzo, Cotacachi, Esmeraldas • In communities surrounding the low area, cause a fire. Make campfires exclusively free for nationals and foreigners. (06) 264 4675 water is not treated for drinking purposes, where permitted and never in the dry season.

26 27 Tour operators Directory Activities 1. Camping 2. Horseback tours 3. Trekking 4. Cycling 5. Canyoning 6. Canopying 7. Mountaineering 8. Birdwatching 9. Sport fishing 10. Rafting and kayaking 11. Cultural tourism 12. Community tourism

Zones of operation Lodging Ibarra Otavalo Íntag address price reference contact category Ecosierra Tours All about EQ Íntag Ecotourism Network (06) 260 8865 / 099 205 3690 (06) 292 3633 / 099 993 3148 (06) 301 5595 / 098 257 0553 [email protected] [email protected] / 099 201 3952 Prices are per guest and include breakfast and taxes unless otherwise indicated. www.ecosierra.ec www.all-about-ecuador.com [email protected] Lita Cotacachi volcano, Piñán, Íntag www.intagturismo.com 1 3 9 11 12 2 3 4 7 9 10 11 Íntag 3 7 11 13 (06) 299 1253 Visit Imbabura Ecomontes Tour Cotacachi Hostal Mindales (06) 295 5468 (02) 252 7751 / (06) 292 6244 Simón Bolívar and 9 de Octubre [email protected] www.haciendasanisidro.com [email protected] [email protected] San Lorenzo, Esmeraldas Pensión Terra Nostra 21 second www.visitimbabura.com www.ecomontestour.com Ecoturismo Malvinas Simón Bolívar and 10 de Agosto (06) 291 6990 Nangulví, Chachimbiro, Cuicocha, Cuicocha, Íntag, River Mira, (06) 278 1641 / 098 873 3953 (06) 291 4029 [email protected] Hotel Rancho Santa Fe Cotacachi volcano, Lita Nangulví, Piñán second 1 3 7 10 11 [email protected] 10 de Agosto, outskirts of 2 3 7 10 3 4 5 9 third Hostería La Banda Cotacachi 74 Hostal Bachita Arte Piel 10 de Agosto and (06) 291 6338 Sucre 16-74 and Modesto Peñaherrera Esmeraldas [email protected]. 11 25 (breakfast not included) COMMUNITY-BASED TOURISM first (06) 291 5063 (06) 291 4206 third [email protected] Hostería La Mirage www.hosterialabanda.com Continuation of 10 de Hostal Posada Munaylla second Agosto avenue, outskirts of Cotacachi Esmeraldas Pacífico bus to Borbón (30 minutes, US$ 1). 10 de Agosto w/n and Sucre 350 - 800 per room, San Miguel community: (06) 270 4344 11 (breakfast not included) Hostal El Arbolito breakfast and dinner, plus 22% tax (06) 291 6169 Imbabura 9-11 and Rocafuerte San Miguel, community-based tourism in (06) 291 5237 [email protected] 40 (two-bed room, breakfast not Playa de Oro, community-based tourism [email protected] the Cayapas River third included) in the Santiago River (06) 291 6892 www.mirage.com.ec Guided tours inside the forest and through Hostal La Cuadra [email protected] first Modesto Peñaherrera 11-56 and the rivers neighbouring the Reserve, tra- Riverside lodging, traditional food, guided www.hostalelarbolito.com ditional food and cultural activities in this tours inside the forest and through rivers in González Suárez second San Lorenzo, Esmeraldas 15 (breakfast not included) Afroecuadorean community. the Reserve. Afroecuadorean Playa de Oro is Hostal Land of Sun (06) 291 6015 Las Siete Cascadas 1. Quito-Borbón. Take the TransEsmeraldas renowned as a birdwatching site. García Moreno 13-57 and Sucre www.lacuadra-hostal.com El Guadual, km 111 49 bus its La Mariscal terminal (9:15 pm, arrives to 1. Borbón-Selva Alegre. In Borbón take a La third (06) 264 0276 (06) 291 6009 Borbón 6:00 am the next morning, US$ 8). From Costeñita bus (everyday at 09:30 am, 3:30 pm www.lassietecascadas.com Cabañas Quinta La Posada [email protected] Borbon, motorboats to San Miguel depart every and 5:30 pm, US$ 1). Alejandro Proaño and Peñaherrera first first day between 9:00 and 10:00 am (6 hours, US$ 10). 2. Selva Alegre-Playa de Oro. The river 17 Gran Hotel San Carlos Hostería Hacienda San Isidro de Iltaquí 2. From Esmeraldas or San Lorenzo, take a journey must be arranged with the community. (06) 291 6534 / 098 984 8301 Imbabura and José Garcés On the way to Morochos community, [email protected] (06) 278 0284 bus to Las Peñas (two and a half hours, US$ 2). Comunidad de Playa de Oro (089 083 683, old road to Cuicocha www.quintalaposada.com second It is possible to spend the night in Las Peñas signal is weak, so several calling attempts might second 60 and the next morning take a La Costeñita or be necessary).

28 29 Naranjito Tourism Association Imbabura Ibarra: Piñán community hostel signs toward the hill behind the village. bed and breakfast US$ 18; horseback rid- Limpid rivers, waterfalls and its forests make Cotacachi and Otavalo: Íntag Ecotourism The local community provides the best ing US$ 12 per person daily; guide or muleteer Naranjito, at CCER’s buffer-zone towards Pedro Network (IEN) guides with whom to explore Piñán’s páramos US$ 12 daily. Vicente Maldonado, an outstanding destination in and lagoons. It also offers lodging and nour- (06) 264 8692 / [email protected] the subtropical landscape. Its community offers IEN groups 11 grassroots organisations ishment. Expeditions include sport fishing and / www.bospas.org lodging, traditional food and excursions to the and covers about 1,460 square kilometers swimming in the lagoons. neighbouring country. Strolls and swims in the riv- in Cotacachi and Otavalo counties. In this No public transport arrives there, but it ers’ many fish-teeming fords are not to be missed. is possible to hire a 4x4 vehicle in Otavalo, subtropical zone, IEN offers horseback tours, OTHER CONTACTS From Quito’s Carcelen terminal, take a cycling, trekking, canyoning, rafting, ther- Cotacachi or Ibarra. The journey takes between Transportes Occidentales bus to Pedro Vicente mal springs, waterfall trails,cabuya-fiber 4 and 5 hours. Maldonado. There, take the ranchera to Naranjito handycrafts, coffee-farm visits, aloe-based lodging US$ 12; lunch and dinner US$ 8 Cotacachi (everyday 1:30 pm, 1 hour). products and rental of camping equipment. each meal; breakfast US$ 4; horseback tours • Río Íntag Cottage Coffee-growers Association Naranjito Tourism Association: In Otavalo, take a Transportes Otavalo, US$ 20; guides US$ 20 per day. (Apuela parish). (06) 264 8489 / 098 088 0299 / 099 172 1614 (signal is weak, Cooperativa 6 de Julio or Imbaburapak (06) 292 3383 / www.pinantrek.com [email protected] so several call attempts might be necessary). bus to the desired destination (Apuela, Cuellaje, Nangulví or García Moreno). The • Community-based tourism in Chilcapamba journey takes between two and four hours, Ibarra: Aguasavia, hot-springs in (near Cuicocha lagoon). Verde Canandé Project depending on the destination. Chachimbiro 099 771 2695 / [email protected] (06) 301 5595 / 301 6135 / This project is aimed at benefiting the [email protected] / [email protected] Aguasavia is a lodge inside the volcanic • Perihuela Protected Forest dwellers of Cristobal Colón, a village in cantón / www.intagturismo.com crater of La Viuda, at Chachimbiro, in the CCER [email protected] Quinindé. Visitors can help with chores in the buffer-zone. It offers volcanic hot-springs, vegetable garden, the family orchard and even trekking and horseback riding. • Community-based tourism in Apuela (06) 264 8557 / 098 003 1754 / building eco-housing. The project’s house Cotacachi: Runa Tupari In Ibarra, take a bus to San Lorenzo and [email protected] lodges 20 visitors comfortably alongside river alight in Salinas. There you can hire a pickup Canandé, where they can swim or stroll to Very close to the Cuicocha lagoon in truck to Chachimbiro. • Community-based tourism in García Moreno nearby waterfalls and forests. the communities of Morochos, La Calera, US$ 50 per person per day, includes lodging, [email protected] / [email protected] 1. Quito-Pedro Vicente Maldonado-Cristobal Tunibamba and Santa Bárbara, visitors can three meals, horseback riding, tarabita crossing, Colón: In Quito’s Carelén terminal, take a share with kichwa families their daily chores guided walks and hot-springs. • Community-based tourism in Cuellaje Transportes Occidentales bus to Pedro Vicente and social activities, while taking excursions (06) 2648064 / 098 798 7563 / 099 993 3148 / [email protected] / Maldonado (1:30 pm) and there take a bus to nearby summits, forests and lagoons. [email protected] / www.termasaguasavia.com piñ[email protected] through La Célica to Golondrinas (4:00 pm). A These include walking, cycling or horseback Lita bus will take you from here to Cristóbal Colón. tours. Itineraries can include climbing volcano Cotacachi and visiting the Piñán lagoons, both Lita: Bosque de Paz Approximate arrival time: between 7:00 and • Lita Tourism Entrepreneurs Association of which are inside the Reserve’s limits. 9:00 pm (shorter trip). 2. Quito-Santo Domingo- 098 838 0412 Cristóbal Colón: from Quito’s Quitumbe terminal, Otavalo, facing Plaza de los Ponchos. In a family environment, Bosque de Paz take any bus to Santo Domingo de los Tsáchilas. Sucre and Quiroga streets. offers lodging, nourishment, walks in the nearby • Cachaco Agritourism. 091 950 286 In this town, take the 4:00 am Transportes Between US$ 27 and 120 per person, mountains, horseback riding and participation in Kennedy bus to Cristóbal Colón. Approximate depending on the package. agriculture chores such as tree-planting, compost • La Playita Agritourism Farm arrival: 8:00 am (longer trip). (06) 292 2320 / 099 959 0646 / preparation or fruit harvesting. Among the possible 099 789 3614 (Tuesday, Friday and Sunday) www.runatupari.com footpaths are those along the river Gallupe and • El Picaflor Agritourism Farm (Parambas) those through the cloud forest. US$ 35 per person per day. Includes lodging, (06) 301 2237 three meals, access to the river and excursions. km 42 in the Ibarra-San Lorenzo road. 099 565 6129 / 098 310 7127 / From Quito or Ibarra, take a bus to San • Rinconcito Ecológico Agritourism Farm 098 084 3143 / [email protected] Lorenzo and get off at El Limonal. Follow the (Palo Amarillo). 098 559 5802

30 31 Below is a short list of some outstanding wildlife found in Cotacachi Cayapas. Given the extraordinary diversity in this area, it is, of necessity, an incomplete list. Enjoy filling it in!

Series direction: Andrés Vallejo Amphibians, reptiles and fish Orces’s Nectar Bat* Waterbirds Editorial design and edition: Nadesha Montalvo R. Texts: Nadesha Montalvo R. Lonchophylla orcesi Design: Esteban Garcés Gliding Treefrog Ecuadorean Round-eared Bat* Anhinga Photographic research: Alegría Acosta and Martina Avilés Agalychnis spurrelli Lophostoma aequatorialis Anhinga anhinga Maps: Susana Crespo and Pablo Cabrera Gladiator Treefrog Andean Gull Map coordination: Ximena Cordovez English translation: Mary Ellen Fieweger Hypsiboas boans Birds Larus serranus Text revision: David Padgham Phantom Glassfrog Andean Lapwing Sachatamia ilex Cock-of-the Rock • Vanellus resplendens Photo credits: Joe Italiano / La Hespería (contents); Rupicola peruvianus Archivo Runa Tupari (5,23:Cuicocha lagoon); Martín Bustamante / Finding Species (6:deer); Mourning Gecko Silvery Grebe Andean Condor • Pete Oxford / Archivo Criollo (6:barbet); Valentí Zapater (6:tree, 23:hiker); Lepidodactylus lugubris Podiceps occipitalis Felipe Fried (9); Ivan Kashinsky / Archivo Criollo (12); Cristóbal Corral (15); José de la Paz (16); Vultur gryphus Miner Snake* Philippe Henry (19); Pete Oxford and Reneé Bish (24); Íntag Ecoutourism Network (25) Atractus dunni Toucan Barbet • Plants Semnornis ramphastinus Coordination, Ministry of Tourism: Mónica Burbano and Liliam Figueroa Andean Catfish Chocó Fern* Revision, Ministry of Tourism: Undersecretaryship of Tourism Management, Undersecretaryship of Tourism Promotion Blue-black Grassquit and Undersecretaryship of Information and Communication Astroblepus spp. Isoetes ecuadoriensis Volatinia jacarina Revision, Ministry of the Environment: National Biodiversity Directorate and Cotacachi Cayapas management office Mammals Blue-black Grassquit Cotacachi Cayapas Orchid* • Volatinia jacarina Andinia pensilis White-tailed Deer • Eared Dove Páramo straw • Odocoileus peruvianus Zenaida auriculata Stipa spp. Mantled Howler Monkey • Baudó Guan Yahual• Alouatta palliata Penelope ortoni Polylepis spp. White-fronted Capuchin • Great Green Macaw Arrayán or Stopper • Cebus albifrons Ara ambiguus Myrcianthes spp. References Rabbit • Andean Alder or Aliso • • Barriga, Franklin, 1987. Etnología Ecuatoriana: Cayapas y Chachis, vol. 4. Instituto Ecuatoriano de Crédito Educativo y Becas, Quito Black-breasted Puffleg • Botero, Carlos Alberto, 2009. El Choco biogeográfico, un tesoro de la naturaleza. Ciudad: Revista de Asuntos Urbanos 17:8-14 Sylvilagus brasiliensis Eriocnemis nigrivestis Alnus acuminata • Brinkhuizen, Dusan and Frank Bills, 2009. Playa de Oro: as remote as you can get in the Chocó lowlands of Ecuador. Trip report, manuscript. http://mindo birdtours.com/doc/Playa_de_Oro_trip_report_09PDF.pdf • Rufous-tailed hammingbird • Chípero or Bobinsana• • Coloma-Santos, Andrea, 2007. Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi Cayapas. In: ECOLAP and MAE. Guía del Patrimonio de Áreas Naturales Protegidas del Ecuador. Tremarctos ornatus Amazilia tzacatl Calliandra angustifolia ECOFUND / FAN / DarwinNet / IGM, Quito • Ecuador Terra Incognita, 2010. Ecuador: Turismo en Áreas Protegidas. Ministerio de Turismo, Quito Cuy or Guinea Pig • Plumbeous Hawk Fig trees • • MAE, 2007. Plan de manejo de la Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi Cayapas. Proyecto GEF Ecuador / Ministerio del Ambiente, Quito Cavia porcellus Leucopternis plumbeus Ficus spp. • Sierra, Rodrigo (ed.), 1999. Propuesta Preliminar de un Sistema de Clasificación de Vegetación para el Ecuador Continental. Proyecto INEFAN/GEF / Ecociencia, Quito Andean Fox or Wolf Osprey Cherimoya or Custard Apple • Lycalopex culpaeus Pandion haliaetus Annona cherimola Cougar or Puma Naranjilla • Great Curassow This document may be cited as: Puma concolor Crax rubra Solanum quitoense Ecuador Terra Incognita, 2012. Informative brochure for sustainable tourism in Cotacachi Cayapas Ecological Reserve. Ministry of Tourism / Ministry of the Environment, Quito Brown-headed Spider Monkey Common Moorhen Guayacán • Ateles fusciceps Gallinula chloropus Tabebuia chrysantha Collared Pecari Laughing Falcon or Valdivia Salero de mono (monkey’s salt © Ministry of Tourism of Ecuador, 2012 Pecari tajacu Herpetotheres cachinnans shaker) • Lecythis ampla Ecuadorean Harvestmouse* Chocó Toucan Produced by: Reithrodontomys soderstromi Ramphastos brevis Chanul • Humiriastrum diguense and H. procerum * species endemic to Ecuador • species mentioned in the text Distributed free of charge

CONSCIOUS TOURISM Is Love for Life

Conscious tourism is a life-transforming experience that leads to personal growth, making us better human beings.

This new concept is based on principles of sustainability and ethics, and promotes peace, friendship, respect, and love for life as the essence of tourism.

It is a pact to live together in a responsible, mutually respectful fashion, in communion with tour agents from sending and receiving communities, the tourist, and the natural and cultural heritage.

Conscious tourism is a living, dynamic concept in constant development. It is an experience in giving and receiving.

El Telégrafo E7-58 and Av. de los Shyris Av. 6 de Diciembre N59-161 and Manuel Zambrano Quito-Ecuador Telephone: (02) 399 9333