GUIDE TO WASHINGTON D.C.

THE LADY-DATEJUST

The classically feminine Rolex, sized and styled to perfectly match its wearer since 1957. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.

EXPLORE HISTORIC GEORGETOWN SHOP THRIFTY THREADS DRINK MIXOLOGIST FAVORITES

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST 28

PROMOTION Experience more at Smithsonian Theaters! SEPTEMBER 2018 Hollywood/documentaries, 5+ story IMAX screens, laser projection, exclusive 35 mm rolex oyster perpetual and datejust are ® trademarks. wheretraveler.com 02 EDITOR‘S NOTE September Where Washington, D.C. 40 THE FIX

06 TOP 5 What’s trending now, from sips at Virginia wineries to mind- expanding classes at museums

08 CALENDAR This month’s hot tickets, including a no-holds-barred one-man show, art in the streets all night long and a “Game of Thrones” geek fest

10 INSIDER �here to fi nd deals and steals to outfi t your fall wardro�e

11 IN THE ’HOOD YOUR DC Georgetown: What to eat, drink, CONNECTION �uy and do in this historic na�e

12 GETTIN’ REEL �ashington, D.C., goes Hollywood with fi lm sets and festivals. taxi service connects more D.C. destinations than ever.

14 Shop 34 Art

17 Food 44 Maps 32 Scene

FALL GUIDE

24 Sights 30 Explore

COVER PROMOTION Smithsonian Theaters features the Einstein Planetarium, Lockheed Martin IMAX, Warner Bros. Theater in Washington, D.C., and the Airbus FIND US AT: THE WHARF | GEORGETOWN | ALEXANDRIA | NATIONAL HARBOR | GAYLORD NATIONAL RESORT IMAX in Virginia. si.edu/theaters. ©Smithsonian Institution

©KAZ SASAHARA/THE WHARF ©KAZ SASAHARA/THE Pearl Street Warehouse PotomacRiverboatCo.com | 703.684.0580

September 2018

Hollywood has its glitz and glam, but did you know IN THE WORLD Where is an international network of Washington, D.C., gets its fair share of movie-mak- magazines fi rst published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 ing magic? Yes, the capital stars in many fi lms from leading hotels in more than 50 “Forrest Gump” to the upcoming ‘Wonder Woman places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the �9��,” which fi lmed in the streets of Georgetown following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online and downtown this summer. The District also at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, One of my favorite channels �insel �own with fi lm fests like AFI Docs Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, things to do in the and this month’s D.C. Shorts fi lm festival. Read all Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, India- fall? Take friends napolis, Jacksonville/St. Septem- about the city’s Hollywood connection on page 12. berine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, and family on a tour Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Min- of D.C.’s most iconic �his month also kicks off my favorite season, and neapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, sites. With fall colors New York, Oahu, Orange County with it, even more exciting things to see and do in (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, in the background, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, monuments and the city. Just turn the page to fi nd out all about the San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, memorials take Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. latest and the greatest. ASIA Singapore AUSTRALIA on added beauty. Brisbane, Gold Coast, Melbourne, wheretraveler.com/ Sydney CANADA Calgary, seizethestay. Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/ Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, connect with us Anne Kim-Dannibale Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istan- Group Editor bul, London, Madrid, Milan, Mos- @wheredc cow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

IMMERSE YOURSELF in world- class films at Smithsonian COVER Theaters. See new film SPOTLIGHT releases and Hollywood classics with IMAX 4K laser projection on the largest movie screens in the Washington, D.C., region. Experience dazzling documentaries, a 360-degree Planetarium and 35 mm films (in 2-D or 3-D). And don't miss the Smithsonian Institution's film artifacts, fresh-off-the-set movie props, talks, events and red carpet screenings. Learn more at si.edu/theaters. COURTESY PARAMOUNT PICTURES PARAMOUNT COURTESY

2 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 GUIDE TO WASHINGTON D.C.

THE LADY-DATEJUST

The classically feminine Rolex, sized and styled to perfectly match its wearer since 1957. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.

EXPLORE HISTORIC GEORGETOWN SHOP THRIFTY THREADS DRINK MIXOLOGIST FAVORITES

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST 28

PROMOTION Experience more at Smithsonian Theaters! SEPTEMBER 2018 Hollywood/documentaries, 5+ story IMAX screens, laser projection, exclusive 35 mm rolex oyster perpetual and datejust are ® trademarks. wheretraveler.com 02 EDITOR‘S NOTE September Where Washington, D.C. 40 THE FIX

06 TOP 5 What’s trending now, from sips at Virginia wineries to mind- expanding classes at museums

08 CALENDAR This month’s hot tickets, including a no-holds-barred one-man show, art in the streets all night long and a “Game of Thrones” geek fest

10 INSIDER �here to fi nd deals and steals to outfi t your fall wardro�e

11 IN THE ’HOOD YOUR DC Georgetown: What to eat, drink, CONNECTION �uy and do in this historic na�e

12 GETTIN’ REEL �ashington, D.C., goes Hollywood with fi lm sets and festivals. taxi service connects more D.C. destinations than ever.

14 Shop 34 Art

17 Food 44 Maps 32 Scene

FALL GUIDE

24 Sights 30 Explore

COVER PROMOTION Smithsonian Theaters features the Einstein Planetarium, Lockheed Martin IMAX, Warner Bros. Theater in Washington, D.C., and the Airbus FIND US AT: THE WHARF | GEORGETOWN | ALEXANDRIA | NATIONAL HARBOR | GAYLORD NATIONAL RESORT IMAX in Virginia. si.edu/theaters. ©Smithsonian Institution

©KAZ SASAHARA/THE WHARF ©KAZ SASAHARA/THE Pearl Street Warehouse PotomacRiverboatCo.com | 703.684.0580

September 2018

Hollywood has its glitz and glam, but did you know IN THE WORLD Where is an international network of Washington, D.C., gets its fair share of movie-mak- magazines fi rst published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 ing magic? Yes, the capital stars in many fi lms from leading hotels in more than 50 “Forrest Gump” to the upcoming ‘Wonder Woman places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the �9��,” which fi lmed in the streets of Georgetown following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online and downtown this summer. The District also at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, One of my favorite channels �insel �own with fi lm fests like AFI Docs Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, things to do in the and this month’s D.C. Shorts fi lm festival. Read all Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, India- fall? Take friends napolis, Jacksonville/St. Septem- about the city’s Hollywood connection on page 12. berine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, and family on a tour Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Min- of D.C.’s most iconic �his month also kicks off my favorite season, and neapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, sites. With fall colors New York, Oahu, Orange County with it, even more exciting things to see and do in (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, in the background, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, monuments and the city. Just turn the page to fi nd out all about the San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, memorials take Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. latest and the greatest. ASIA Singapore AUSTRALIA on added beauty. Brisbane, Gold Coast, Melbourne, wheretraveler.com/ Sydney CANADA Calgary, seizethestay. Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/ Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, connect with us Anne Kim-Dannibale Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istan- Group Editor bul, London, Madrid, Milan, Mos- @wheredc cow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

IMMERSE YOURSELF in world- class films at Smithsonian COVER Theaters. See new film SPOTLIGHT releases and Hollywood classics with IMAX 4K laser projection on the largest movie screens in the Washington, D.C., region. Experience dazzling documentaries, a 360-degree Planetarium and 35 mm films (in 2-D or 3-D). And don't miss the Smithsonian Institution's film artifacts, fresh-off-the-set movie props, talks, events and red carpet screenings. Learn more at si.edu/theaters. COURTESY PARAMOUNT PICTURES PARAMOUNT COURTESY

2 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

WASHINGTON, D.C.

EDITORIAL & DESIGN GROUP EDITOR Anne Kim-Dannibale ART DIRECTOR Dusty Martin CONTRIBUTING WRITER Jennifer Barger

CIRCULATION CIRCULATION MANAGER Irena Laster

ADVERTISING JAMES G. ELLIOTT CO., INC. EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Pat O’Donnell ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jeryl Parade 860.830.1792, [email protected] ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Christopher Dunham 203.994.1883, [email protected]

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

MVP | EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Dennis Kelly    VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS Angela E. Allen HEAD OF DIGITAL Richard H. Brashear II DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson MVP | CREATIVE  CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Margaret Martin DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Isaac Arjonilla CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt      MVP | MANUFACTURING & PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING Donald Horton PUBLICATION SERVICES DIRECTOR Karen Fralick PUBLICATION SERVICES MANAGER Cher Wheeler    DIGITAL IMAGING & RETOUCH Erik Lewis

E-mails for all MVP employees above except contributors: [email protected]

MVP | WASHINGTON, D.C. 1455 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Suite 457, Washington, D.C. 20004 202.349.9858 Tag your favorite travel tips & photos on MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS Instagram & Twitter with #SeizeTheStay CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV —we’ll reshare the best!

Where® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Septembera, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. Where magazine and the logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.

Crystal City, Tysons Galleria, and 7th Street NW www.legalseafoods.com 4 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 SEPTEMBER 2018

1 2 3 4 5 WASHINGTON D.C. Sip Local Dig In Take a Class Go Natural Get Fit Virginia’s wine country has plenty September brings a change The kids aren’t the only ones Head to green oases like the Run, walk or roll along mul- of top-notch vineyards, like Box- in season and the city’s res- going back to school. Drop-in U.S. Arboretum or Hillwood tiple paths that wind in, out wood (pictured) for sampling the taurants respond with menus courses at D.C. museums ex- Museum & Gardnes to take in and all around this picturesque area’s viticultural bounty. highlighting Autumn. pand the mind for all. local fall colors. capital city.

COURTESY BOXWOOD WINERY

IN SEPTEMBER

National Book Festival Sept. 1 Madeleine Albright joins authors Isabel Allende, Ron Chernow and more at this reader�s highlight. �ree. www.loc.gov��oo�fest

DC Shorts Film Festival Sept. 6-16 Films 40 minutes in length or less �ac� a �unch at this international showcase. �e�site for tic�ets. www. festival.dcshorts.com

Colonial Market & Fair Sept. 15-16 George Washington’s home becomes a hub for crafts and family�friendly events. �ree with admission. www. mountvernon.org

Redskins vs. Colts Sept. 16 The capital’s hometown heroes hit the gridiron at this fi rst home game of the season. �ic�ets vary. www. reds�ins.com

Museum Day Sept. 25 Sept. 29 Sept. 22 September at a Glance �ree online tic�ets allow “Game of Thrones” Art All Night cultural explorations Sept. 6-Oct. 14 Sept. 22 Live in Concert When night falls, the District turns into an all around town. www. Historic Homes artistic playground with six neighborhoods smithsonianmag.com “Turn Me Loose” Fans of HBO’s mega fantasy hit TV hosting 300 events, from live performances Before Richard Pryor, there was Dick Gregory, Founded in 1749, Old Town series have hosted viewing parties, to gallery shows, fi lm screenings and more. dressed up as favorite characters for DC State Fair an activist who took the fi ght for civil rights from Alexandria, Virginia, preserves � �m to � am. �ree. artallnightdc.com Sept. 23 the streets to the mic. In this Arena Stage debut, its history in cobblestone streets, Halloween and even joined Fantasy The District may not be a playwright Gretchen �aw takes a no�holds�barred brick sidewalks, and the historic Football-style online games. Now, state, but this fair shows off approach to telling Gregory’s story, from his homes that line them. Many of they (and any music lover) can watch the area�s �est goods. �ree. www.dcstatefair.org beginnings performing for black audiences to his those 18th-century residences dramatic scenes from past episodes rise as the fi rst black comedian to confront bigotry open their doors to the public, on the big-screen along with full or- head on before white audiences, often risking his raising much-needed funds for chestral accompaniment, conducted O O own safety in the process. �ickets�times vary. ���� Inova Alexandria Hospital. Check by none other than the man who Sept. 29 �th St. S�, ���.���.����, arenastage.org website for prices. thetwig.org composed the show’s theme, Ramin The Washington National Djawadi. From $30. Capital One Opera hits high notes with “The Barber of Seville” at Arena, 601 F St. NW, 800.745.3000, For a full calendar of events, go to wheretraveler.com/washington-dc/local-events �ationals �ar�. �ree. www. (FROM TOP) COURTESY HBO; ©JUDY LICHT ©JUDY HBO; COURTESY TOP) (FROM (FROM TOP) ©CHARLES CHAISSON; ©EJ GRUBBS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©EJ CHAISSON; ©CHARLES TOP) (FROM ticketmaster.com �ennedy�center.org

8 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 9

Accessories to the FIND THE BEST IN GEORGETOWN, ONE BLOCK AT A TIME sublime: What’s old is new again Eat Drink

Naturally, D.C.’s oldest Like its dining counterpart, nabe (founded in 1751) has Chez Billy Sud, Bar a Vin its fair share of history- channels Old World France imbued restaurants. for sipping wine. Ri Ra Among them, Clyde’s literally brings authentic appeals to families, while Irish ambiance thanks 1789 draws date-nighters to architectural pieces and dignitaries. Chez Billy shipped from County Sud plates classic French Wicklow. The Tombs hums Vintage Mirage cuisine in jewel box-like with a collegiate vibe and Yes, retro retail interiors, while “Top Chef” a nod to the movies (it was star Spike Mendelsohn’s the inspiration for the bar can be had online Good Stuff fl ips crave- in “St. Elmo’s Fire”). at any number worthy burgers served  Bar a Vin 1035 31st St. of sites. But with handspun milkshakes. NW, 202.965.2606 few offer that  1789 1226 36th St. NW,  Ri Ra 3125 M St. NW, personal touch 202.965.1789 202.751.2111  Chez Billy Sud 1035  The Tombs 1226 36th crucial to second- 31st St. NW, 202.965.2606 St. NW, 202.337.6668 hand shopping.  Clyde’s 3236 M St. NW, At Vintage 202.333.9180 Play Mirage in Old  Good Stuff Eatery 3291 Town Alexandria, M St. NW, 202.337.4663 This buzzing zone also Virginia, owner appeals to sightseers with Shop plenty of intriguing places. Elinor Coleman and the presides over a SHOP With stores lining the brick Francis Scott Key Memorial veritable treasure sidewalks, Georgetown is a off er lovely grounds for trove of pristine shopper’s paradise. Sneaker strolling or contemplating. THRIFTY THREADS frocks from heads looking for the latest At , kicks jog over to Major, sailors and kayakers ply the yesteryear and New-to-you fi nds for your wardrobe while fashionistas browse Potomac. When night falls, offers her wise the runway at Relish. Music Gypsy Sally’s draws crowds SHOPAHOLICS IN D.C. have fertile ground for uncovering retail gold. In a city of counsel along fans shouldn’t miss a stop for musical performances lawyers and lobbyists, plenty of luxury boutiques stock fresh-from-the-runway the way. Another at Hill & Dale, which carries in an intimate club setting.  Dumbarton Oaks looks. But bargain hunters mine plenty of gems, too. In-the-know stylists head real gem? a well-curated selection of Her sparkling new tunes on vinyl. 1703 32nd St. NW, to Krista Johnson’s well-edited Ella Rue in Georgetown for luxury goods at  Hill & Dale Records 202.339.6400 collection of deep discounts. Brands like Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Gucci regularly make 1054 31st St. NW,  Francis Scott Key baubles and appearances. At subterranean style den Junction, trendsetting guys and gals 202.333.5012 Memorial 34th & M St. NW accessories,  Major 1426 Wisconsin  Gypsy Sally’s dig up cool duds, jewelry and accessories (cat-eye sunglasses!) from the 1930s making old world Ave. NW, 202.625.6732 3401 K St. NW, to today. Second-generation consignment shop owner, Toni Henderson stocks dress-up feel  Relish 3312 Cady’s 202.333.7700 Alley NW, 202.333.5343  Washington Harbour her bright Old Town shop, Mint Condition, with day-to-evening Diane von oh-so new. Furstenberg dresses, Proenza Schouler “it” bags and other pristine must-haves. 3000 & 3050 K St. NW (Clockwise from top) Deal-seekers hit sunny Dupont Circle mainstay Secondi, where high-end For more great places to For more fun things to do shop in the city, visit Ri Ra; Major; Dumbarton in D.C.’s Georgetown, visit (FROM LEFT) ©MATTHEW KLEINROCK; ©FALCON EYES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©FALCON KLEINROCK; ©MATTHEW LEFT) (FROM items from Burberry, Theory and Chloe get cheaper by the day. wheretraveler.com SHYMANSKI ©JOE HIGHSMITH; ©CAROL MAJOR; COURTESY RA; RI COURTESY TOP) FROM (CLOCKWISE Oaks; Good Stuff Eatery wheretraveler.com

10 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 11 Gettin’

THIS SUMMER, Wonder Woman stalked around Georgetown. Well, that was Marvel Reel franchise star Gal Gadot, filming “Wonder Woman 1984” at spots around the city Washington meets Hollywood rewound to the Reagan era thanks to vintage with film sets and festivals. cars and costumed extras. From the early 20th-century to today, By Jennifer Barger D.C.’s dazzling white monuments, vintage neighborhoods and history have made it a popular setting for filmmakers. Highlights from the reels? The 1912 silent short “Filial Love” and “The Exorcist,” the 1971 horror movie, where a priest topples to his demon- induced demise on steep outdoor stairs in Georgetown. Countless thrillers and political intrigues have at least used background shots, if not whole scenes, of the capital city, too. “I feel like Washington becomes more of a character than a place,” says local Jen Betkey. “I’ve seen the White House get de- stroyed so many times on film, I almost can’t gramming. “Even if an audience member MOIE-MAKING MAGIC believe it when I see it standing.” doesn’t like everything in the showcase, that ve al adt filmin Many of the top locations center around range starts discussions.” nde man in the White House (“Independence Day,” Venues also skew diverse. Besides first-run .. ain ae he “Jackie”) or the monument-stuffed National theaters (E Street rules for arty fare; the AMC fams ist stes in Mall (“Captain America: The Winter Soldier, Loew’s Georgetown 14 boasts plush, reclining eetwn. “Forrest Gump”). But high costs (and high seats and a bar), historic movie palaces and security) mean many interiors and some quirkier spots are also popular. The 1936 Up- exteriors happen in less-busy stand-ins like town Theater boasts a curved, 70-foot-long, Baltimore, Philly and even Cleveland. 40-foot-high screen and Art Deco architec- For cinephiles, the District gets two thumbs ture. “There’s really nothing like the AFI Silver,” up as a place to see films, too. “D.C. is a sur- says Page-Kirby of Silver Spring’s historic- prisingly diverse movie town in terms of both yet-state-of-the-art spot. “It’s so technically festivals and what’s showing,” says Kristen perfect, and it’s one of the few places in the Page-Kirby, a local film critic at Washington U.S. that can still show actual film in 70 mm.” Post Express newspaper. “You’ve got the Go- Screenings take place at local museums, liath, American Film Institute’s AFI DOCS, and too, with classic fare at the Library of Congress’ smaller events focusing on environmental Mary Pickford Theater and high culture at the films, Hong Kong cinema and more.” National Gallery of Art, both free. At the Smith- September 6-16, the DC Shorts festival sonian, the Air and Space Museum in D.C. and screens 125 works (all with run times of 40 in Chantilly, Virginia, show current releases on minutes or less) at downtown’s E Street Cin- huge IMAX screens, while the American His- ema and Capitol Hill’s snug Miracle Theatre. tory museum offers a more intimate space. Offerings include “Laboratory Conditions,” And then there’s Suns Cinema, a theater- a 16-minute horror flick about an illegal bar mash-up in D.C.’s funky Mt. Pleasant. In experiment and a missing body starring a 20th-century rowhouse, the second-floor Marisa Tomei and Minnie Driver, and “Nega- theater holds mismatched bar stools and tive Space,” a five-minute animated short folding chairs for 1970s horror flicks and about packing for business trips. Films are contemporary Korean action hits. shown in 90- to 100-minute blocks. “It gets No wonder locals are constantly holed up people to see a wide variety of works,” says at the movies. “I go to 50 or more a year,” (FACING PAGE) ©BROOKE SABIN ©BROOKE PAGE) (FACING PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE GOES CREDIT PHOTO Joe Bilancio, the festival’s director of pro- says Betkey. “There’s just too much to see.”

12 WHERE I APRIL 2017 13 WHERE WASHINGTON SEPTEMBER 2018 SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Shop

Peter Millar, Canada Goose, global designers reflecting Events, live music, patio. Su-Th WHITE HOUSE HISTORICAL Filson, Shinola. Accessories, the African Diaspora and black 7:30 am-1 am, F-Sa till 3 am. ASSOCIATION decor, gifts. Bar. M-Sa 10 am- culture. Traditional patterns and 1517 Connecticut Ave. NW, Books, Christmas ornaments, 8 pm, Su noon-6 pm. 1063 ingredients used in modern 202.387.1400 Metro: Dupont jewelry and items inspired Wisconsin Ave. NW, ways. Tu-Sa noon-7 pm, Su Circle (North) by the history of the White 202.838.9365 11 am-3 pm. 1231 Good Hope House. Hours vary by lo- Road SE, 202.394.3386 Metro: SACRED CIRCLE cation. 1450 Pennsylvania WHISKEY GINGER Anacostia Shop dedicated to spirituality, Ave. NW, 202.208.7031 Metro: Industrial-style digs with metaphysics, holistic heal- Federal Triangle; 1610 H St. NW, Shop SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc casual clothing by Bellfield THE PHOENIX ing and the environment. 202.218.4337 Metro: Farragut and Astronomy. Accessories Upscale boutique with Books, music, crystals and North or Farragut West (iPhone cases), Brooklyn designer clothing by Eileen gifts. Readings (tarot, palm) Penny Post Paper Goods Grooming personal care Fisher, White + Warren, Yansi upstairs. Free parking. Tu-Sa JEWELRY products. Tu-Th 6-9 pm, Fugel and Lilla P. Jewelry 11 am-7 pm, Su 1-5 pm. KING’S JEWELRY Named for the first postal service in the United Kingdom, this F 4-7 pm, Sa 11 am-7 pm, plus fine art and decor from 919 King St., Alexandria, Va., Family-owned shop with fine bright and airy corner stationery shop exudes Old World charm Su noon-6 pm. 1603 U St. NW, Mexico. M-Sa 10 am-6 pm, Su 703.299.9309 Metro: King St. jewelry (diamonds, pearls, 202.791.0851 11 am-5 pm. 1514 Wisconsin gemstones), Swiss watches but with modern updates. Inside, paper fans find a Pinterest- Ave. NW, 202.338.4404 SECOND STORY BOOKS and gifts in a wide range of APPAREL-MEN & Independent bookstore prices. Also antique jewelry worthy collection of goods from witty greeting cards to gor- WOMEN RELISH specializing in out-of-print and consultations. M-F geous rolls of designer wrapping paper and chic office acces- BILLY REID Minimal, contemporary styles and rare books. Cookbooks, 10 am-8 pm, Sa 10 am-6 pm. Renowned designer’s col- handpicked by owner Nancy graphic novels, children’s 609 King St., Alexandria, Va., sories. Scribes go giddy over an island display chockablock with lection with a Southern Pearlstein. Dries van Noten, books. Some art prints. 703.549.0 011 pens and pencils from fountains to gel and graphite to mechan- touch. Rugged button-ups, Marni, Jil Sander, Marc Jacobs. Regular sidewalk sales. Daily derby-ready suits, loose-fit- M-Sa 10 am-6 pm. 3312 Cady’s 10 am-10 pm. 2000 P St. NW, LENKERSDORFER ical, all in a rainbow of colors. Party planners also find a corner ting linens, K Swiss shoes and Alley NW, 202.333.5343 202.659.8884 Metro: Dupont Sister store to Liljenquist of their own, with an area dedicated to wedding invitations and distressed leather handbags. Circle (South) & Beckstead since 1993. M-Th 11 am-7 pm, F-Sa 11 am- SECONDI Fine wristwatches by Patek party supplies. 1201 King St., Alexandria, Va., 703.888.1515, no website 8 pm, Su noon-6 pm. 3211 M Sunny upstairs shop reselling CRAFTS & Philippe, Breitling, Cartier, St. NW, 202.499.6765 contemporary labels (Diane COLLECTIBLES Panerai as well as fine jewelry von Furstenberg, Burberry, THE INDIAN CRAFT SHOP from Roberto Coin, Chopard, PROPER TOPPER Theory, Milly and Chloe) with At Department of the Bulgari. Skilled technicians for SHOPPING CENTERS FASHION CENTRE M-Sa 10 am-9:30 pm, Su 11 am- auction-bought furniture One of the U.S.’s top 10 spots items arriving daily (discounts Interior since 1938, outlet for repairs. M-Th 10 am-9 pm, F-Sa CHEVY CHASE PAVILION AT PENTAGON CITY 7 pm 1961 Chain Bridge Road, and decor (globes, mirrors, to buy a hat, according to vary by tag dates). M-Tu, Sa American Indian artists to 10 am-9:30 pm, Su 11 am- Upscale shopping center in Airy, light-filled mall anchored Tysons Corner, Va., 703.893.9400 vintage postcards). Delivery. USA Today. Berets to derbies, 11 am-6 pm, W-F 11 am-7 pm, market their crafts. Basketry, 7 pm. 1961 Chain Bridge Road, northern D.C. with H&M plus by Nordstrom and Macy’s Metro: Tysons Corner Daily 11 am-7 pm 1626 14th St. cloches and fascinators. Also Su 1-5 pm. 1702 Connecticut weavings, carvings, kachinas, Tysons Corner, Va., 703.506.6712 J. Crew, Richey & Co. Shoes with 170-plus shops (Forever NW, 202.232.8171 Metro: gifts, clothes, jewelry, acces- Ave. NW, 2nd floor, 202.667.1122 beadwork plus outdoor sculp- Metro: Tysons Corner and World Market. Civil Cigar 21, J. Crew, Sephora, Stuart TYSONS GALLERIA U St.-Cardozo sories. Hours vary by location. Metro: Dupont Circle (North) ture garden. Present ID to Lounge. M-Sa 7 am-11 pm, Weitzman, Superdry, Zara). Neiman Marcus, Macy’s, Saks 1350 Connecticut Ave. NW, enter building. M-F 8:30 am- LILJENQUIST & BECKSTEAD Su 7 am-9 pm. 5335 Wisconsin Large food court. M-Sa 10 am- Fifth Avenue plus 100 other APPAREL-MEN 202.842.3055 Metro: Dupont BEAUTY 4:30 pm and the third Sa of Since 1979 watches by Bulgari, Ave. NW, 202.686.5335 Metro: 9:30 pm, Su 11 am-6 pm. upscale shops (Chanel, Gucci, DURKL Circle (South); 3322 Wisconsin BELLACARA each month 10 am-4 pm. 1849 Cartier, Rolex, Chopard. Friendship Heights 1100 S. Hayes St., Arlington, Va., Louis Vuitton, Michael Kors) Hip streetwear (hoodies, Ave. NW, 202.321.7499 Angela Sitilides’ spot for C St. NW, 202.208.4056 Bell & Ross timepieces “de- 703.415.2401 Metro: Pentagon in addition to restaurants baseball caps, workshirts, luxury skincare, beauty and signed for professionals,” CITYCENTERDC City (Legal Sea Foods) and Isabella T-shirts. M-Th 7 am-10 pm, REDEEM haircare. Bumble and Bumble, LOOPED YARN WORKS Tacori diamond rings and Luxury complex for coveted Eatery upscale food court F till 11 pm, Su till 5 pm. Posh urbanites and rockers Butter London, Dermalogica, Well-organized home-like David Yurman bracelets. labels including Hermes, SHOPS AT WISCONSIN PLACE (third floor). M-Sa 10 am-9 pm, Maketto, 1351 H St. NE, flocking to this hip boutique Kai, Skinceuticals, all tested by shop encouraging in-store Hours vary by location. Louis Vuitton, Dior, Vince, Bloomingdale’s and LED sculp- Su noon-6 pm. Exit I-495 at 202.838.9972 for luxe brands like Religion, Sitilides herself. M-F 11 am- knitting. More than 30 brands Tysons Galleria (watch store), plus restaurants Daniel ture anchoring row of stores 46A. 2001 International Drive, Brown Label and Elohim. M-Sa 6 pm, Sa 10 am-6 pm, Su of yarns, patterns, and nee- 2001 International Drive, Boulud’s DBGB Kitchen and like Anthropologie, Cole Haan, McLean, Va., 703.827.7730 HUGH & CRYE noon-8 pm, Su noon-6 pm. noon-5 pm. 1000 King St., dles and notions. Weekly McLean, Va., 703.448.6731; Bar, Momofuku, Centrolina Sephora and Talbots plus Nina Shirts (dress, casual) and blaz- 1810 14th St. NW, 202.332.7447 Alexandria, Va., 703.299.9652 classes and events. Hours Westfield Montgomery, 2412 and Fig & Olive. Tesla dealer- McLemore’s flagship. Four res- ANTIQUES ers designed to fit 12 body Metro: U St.-Cardozo vary. Check website for latest. Montgomery Mall, Bethesda, ship. Hours vary. 10th St. NW taurants including P.F. Chang’s, GOODWOOD types from slim to athletic. TAKE CARE SHOP 1732 Connecticut Ave. NW, Md., 301.469.7575; Fairfax (Between H and I), 202.289.9000 The Capital Grille. M-Sa 10 am- American vintage, specialty Pocket squares, ties and vin- APPAREL-WOMEN Bright studio for all-natural 202.714.5667 Metro: Dupont Square, 8075 Leesburg Pike, Metro: Metro Center or Gallery 8 pm, Su noon-7 pm. 5310 goods and antiques. Wood tage pins. M-F 10 am-7 pm, ELLA RUE beauty brands (women and Circle (North) Vienna, Va., 703.749.1200; Pl-Chinatown Western Ave., Chevy Chase, Md., dressers, animal skulls, shaving Sa-Su noon-6 pm. 3212 O St. Georgetown boutique for men), made locally in small Westfield Annapolis, 1660 202.966.6114 301.841.4000 Metro: supplies, jewelry. M-Sa noon- NW, Suite 5, 202.250.3807 high-end consignment from batches. Daily 11 am-7 pm. 1338 HOME DECOR & GIFTS Annapolis Mall, Annapolis, Md., THE COLLECTION Friendship Heights 7 pm, Su noon-5 pm 1428 U St. Palm Beach to Paris. Chanel, Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202.717.2600 HOME RULE 410.224.4787 AT CHEVY CHASE NW, 202.986.3640 Metro: ONWARD RESERVE Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Tiny but expertly curated den High-end boutiques just north TYSONS CORNER CENTER U St.-Cardozo Georgia-based designer’s J. Brand. Accessories, shoes. BOOKS of kitchen and bath gear in MALLORY SHELTER JEWELRY of the D.C. line. Jimmy Choo, Largest mall in the metropol- store for the outdoorsy 3231 P St. NW, 202.333.1598 KRAMERBOOKS & bright hues. Essentials and Handmade jewelry in 14-karat Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth itan area has 300-plus shops, MISS PIXIE’S FURNISHINGS Southern gentlemen. Glam AFTERWORDS CAFE fun accessories. M-Sa 11 am- gold, vermeil, sterling silver, Avenue. Hours vary. 5471-5481 restaurants and a cineplex. AND WHATNOT hunting lodge-like digs for NUBIAN HUEMAN Newly expanded indie 7 pm, Su noon-5:30 pm. 1807 semi-precious gemstones. Wisconsin Ave. NW 301.654.2690 Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, L.L. Wacky window displays polos, tees, khakis, sweaters Socially responsible fashion, art bookstore with full-service 14th St. NW, 202.797.5544 Custom orders (engagement/

Metro: Friendship Heights Bean, Lego, West Elm and Zara. and a neon pink exterior, by namesake line, Barbour, GOODS PAPER POST PAPPU/PENNY ©RASHMI and beauty from independent restaurant and bar since 1976. wedding, platinum, dia-

14 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 15 Shop Food monds). By appointment only SPECIALTY Martin’s Tavern and online. 1921 Sunderland GEORGETOWN CUPCAKE Since 1933, politicos, Supreme Court justices, spies Place NW, 202.455.5314 Metro: Winner Washington Post Dupont Circle (South) Cupcake Wars. Owners (for- Experience and media stars have imbued this Georgetown merly of TLC’s “DC Cupcakes”) institution with a wealth of stories. Among them? THE SILVER PARROT personalize frosting on treats Silver and gold contemporary made in 18 flavors daily. M-Sa the Art of Jewelry Then-Senator John F. Kennedy’s 1953 proposal to jewelry and Native American 10 am-9 pm, Su 10 am-8 pm. pieces. Repairs. M-Th 10 am- 1209 Potomac St NW, Jacqueline Bouvier in Booth 3. The spot claims the 9 pm, F-Sa 10 am-10 pm, 202.333.8448; 4834 Bethesda distinction of having served every U.S. President Su 11 am-7 pm. 113 King St., Ave., 301.907.8900 Alexandria, Va., 703.549.8530 since Harry S. Truman, before they took the oath Metro: King Street HILL & DALE of office. On Sept. 12, the tavern marks its 85th Local musician’s record parlor KIDS in Canal Square (beside Sea anniversary as a go-to for movers and shakers, LABYRINTH Catch) with all-new vinyl plus Capitol Hill store stocking posters and photos by pho- and maybe even a president in the making. 1264 games from classics (Chutes tojournalist Peter Simon. See Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202.333.7370, martinstavern.com & Ladders, Monopoly) to website for upcoming acous- role-playing and expansion tic in-store sessions. Tu 1-7 pm, (Catan). Puzzles, Pokemon, W-Su noon-7 pm. 1054 31st St. STEM. Dedicated area for NW, 202.333.5012 14TH & U CORRIDOR GHIBELLINA underground digs featuring Brazilian paella and pastas, younger kids. In-store events BEN’S CHILI BOWL Italian Sleek-meets-rustic a blazing hearth. Seafood, spiced shrimp, filet with like tournaments (Magic the LEICA Southern Former pool hall “Italian gastro-pub” for Tuscan kabobs, meats, spreads and Madeira wine sauce, chicken Gathering), monthly kids’ The German camera manu- serving chili half-smokes, fare: seafood, veal, calamari, salads trotting the globe from Copacabana, feijoada and night out (games, pizza). Tu, facturer’s first U.S. outpost. burgers, cakes to Obama et. al., pizzas, salumi, pastas, porter- North Africa to Iran. Bar till caipirinhas served beneath Th-F 10 am-10 pm; W 10 am-9 Knowledgeable staff. On-site since 1958. B (M-F); L, D (daily). house steak for two. Beers, late. D (daily). 1346 Florida Ave. “palm trees.” D (daily), Br (Sa- pm; Sa 9 am-7 pm; Su 10 am-6 gallery features lectures, 1213 U St. NW, 202.667.0909 cocktails, wines. L (Th-F), D NW, 202.370.3696 Metro: Su). 1858 Columbia Road NW, pm. 645 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, workshops and rotating pho- Metro: U St.-Cardozo; 1001 H St. (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 1610 14th St. U Street-Cardozo 202.986.0757 202.544.1059 Metro: Eastern tography exhibitions. M-W NE, 202.733.1895; 1725 Wilson NW, 202.803.2389 Market 10 am-6 pm, Th-Sa till 7 pm, Blvd., Arlington, Va., 571.312.1091 ADAMS MORGAN, D.C. LAPIS AFGHAN BISTRO Su 11 am-5 pm. 977 F St. NW, IZAKAYA SEKI A RAKE’S PROGRESS Afghan The Popal family’s ode LITTLE BIRDIES BOUTIQUE 202.787.5900 202.787.5900 Metro: COMPASS ROSE Japanese Warm and welcom- American James Beard winner to Afghan home cooking High-end children’s clothing Metro Center Global Colorful rowhouse for ing two-level spot for raw, Spike Gjerde’s first D.C. foray with matriarch in the kitchen. store for newborns to size international street food fa- grilled and fried Japanese focused on local producers Comfort foods like mantoo 14, plus organic products, SEYLOU BAKERY & MILL vorites. Georgian khachapuri, small plates. Sashimi, grilled and seasonal ingredients. Raw (dumplings), bolani (stuffed gifts, fine art and bedroom San Francisco couple’s first Lebanese lamb kefta. Private whole squid, vegetables, bar, small plates (fried quail, flat breads), grilled kabobs, decor. Brands including Bella venture in Blagden Alley with dinners for up to eight in noodles. Sakes, shochu (glass bone broth), shared dishes plus vegetarian dishes (sabzi, Bliss, Candy Lab, Milkbarn name referencing the word glam Bedouin-style tent. or bottle). D (Tu-Su). 1117 V St. (stuffed whole porgy, rib sauteed spinach; samarok, Kids, Young Versace and local for “eagle” in the Mandika lan- D (daily), Br (Su). 1346 T St. NW, NW, 202.588.5841 eye), mains (spit-roasted par- sauteed mushrooms). Airy designers. Tu-Sa 10 am-6 pm, guage in West Africa. Whole- 202.506.4765 tridge, grilled sweet potato). space with blue (lapis) ac- Su noon-5 pm. 1526 Wisconsin grain breads, croissants, sour- LE DIPLOMATE Extensive wine list with local cents, family portraits and Ave. NW, 202.333.1059 dough. Coffee, but also tea in- DOI MOI French Stephen Starr’s red makers. D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). antique rugs. Patio. D (daily), spired by Ayurvedic practices. Asian Inspired by Thai and banquettes, zinc-topped bar The Line Hotel, 1770 Euclid St. Br (Sa-Su). 1847 Columbia Road SHOES W-Su 8 am-4 pm. 926 N St. NW, Designer Consignment for Women Viet street foods: curries, and a “garden room” for steak NW, 202.864.4190 NW, 202.299.9630 HU’S SHOES Suite A, 202.842.1122 Metro: Mt. Dupont Circle ~ 202.667.1122 ~ Secondi.com noodles, rice dishes, taro frites, foie gras “parfait,” lamb Marlene Hu Aldaba stocks Vernon Sq root and potato dumplings stew with fennel and oranges, BROTHERS AND SISTERS MADAM’S ORGAN her boutique with coveted and two-flavor ices. 2 Birds sorbets. D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). American/Asian James Beard- Soul Food Live music nightly footwear from New York, UNION MARKET 1 Stone sister bar with Asian 1601 14th St. NW, 202.332.3333 nominated Erik Bruner-Yang’s at this rowdy bar where red- Paris and Milan. Chloe, Jimmy Culinary marketplace with cocktails (upstairs) and clas- newest all-day restaurant. heads get a half-price drink Choo, Proenza Schouler, local “artisan” vendors in- sics (down). D (daily). 1800 14th LUPO VERDE Western-style food as seen special. Comfort foods like Roksanda. M-Sa 10 am-7 pm, cluding Follain natural cos- St. NW, 202.733.5131 Italian Dig into calamari through the lens of Japan and fried chicken, meatloaf, mac Su noon-5 pm. 3005 M St. NW, metics, Peregrine Espresso, stew, risottos, branzino with Taiwan (milk bread with eggs and cheese. Pool tables, kara- 202.342.0202 Metro: Foggy Righteous Cheese Co. and DUKEM black trumpet mushrooms, and potato rosti, octopus oke, rooftop bar. D (daily). 2461 Bottom-GWU Rappahannock Oyster Co., Ethiopian Expat haven for bombolini. Small plates, char- hot dog, knife-cut noodles). 18th St. NW, 202.667.5370 plus John Mooney’s Bidwell communal-style, spice-rich cuturie, pizzas, paninis. Made- Luxuries like an uni tray ser- THE SHOE HIVE restaurant. Wines, fresh bread, kitfo, tibs, vegetarian dishes in-house cheeses, prosciutto, vice with multiple toppings. MELLOW MUSHROOM Elegant and casual shoes empanadas. Tu-F 11 am-8 pm, to scoop with spongy injera. pastas. D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). B, L & D (daily). The Line Pizza Eco-minded spot plus bags and accessories. Sa-Su 8 am-8 pm. 6th St. and VIP Bar with Ethiopian art. NFL 1401 R St. NW, 202.827.4752 Hotel, 1770 Euclid St. NW, known for “southern” pizza, Designers: Tory Burch, Kate Neal Place NE 301.347.3998 on big-screen TVs. Live jazz. 202.864.4180 pretzels, calzones, salads and Spade, Sam Edelman. M-Sa L, D (daily). 1114-1118 U St. NW, MAYDAN hoagies. Craft beers on tap, 10 am-7 pm, Su noon-5 pm. 202.667.8735 Middle Eastern Rose Previte GRILL FROM IPANEMA vegetarian and gluten-free 127 S. Fairfax St., Alexandria, Va., of popular Compass Rose Brazilian Alcy De Souza’s options. Rooftop bar and

703.548.7105 Metro: King Street TAVERN MARTIN’S COURTESY hitting flavor high notes in authentic seafood stews,

16 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 17 Food SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Food patio. L, D (daily). 2436 18th St. HANK’S PASTA BAR VIRTUE FEED & GRAIN schedule online. D (daily). 423 grits, grass-fed veal, Muscovy New York strip, filet mignon, DUPONT CIRCLE Facebook page for the day’s NW, 202.290.2778 Italian Part of Jamie Leeds’ Irish In a two-level, 1800s 8th St. SE, 202.558.9934 Metro: duck, vegan options. A la lobster. L (M-F), D (daily). ASIA 54 offerings). Sarnie (aka, sand- ever-expanding Hank’s em- former feed house near the Eastern Market carte or multicourse tastings. 1050 Connecticut Ave. NW, Asian Across from Hotel wich) varieties like sausage, MINTWOOD PLACE pire, this one focusing on waterfront, upscale tavern Prix-fixe menus (regular and 202.955.5997 Metro: Farragut Palomar, sleek spot with tem- BLT, spiced lentil and a “proper American Cedric Maupillier’s handmade pastas—15 vari- fare (duck meatloaf, jerk GARRISON vegan) four or six courses, North; 1750 Crystal Drive, ple-style art for Vietnamese, burger” with Angus beef. classy comfort food (sustaina- eties, plus risotto, antipasti, chicken, crab dip, steak frites, American Culinary Institute wine extra. L (M-F), D (M-Sa), 703.418.1444 Metro: Crystal Japanese, Chinese and Thai Unconventional curries and ble and local): deviled pickled crostini, whole-roasted fish, lobster pot pie). Specialty of America-trained Robert Br (Su). 818 Connecticut Ave. City; 3251 Prospect St. NW, faves. Sushi bar and happy seasonal salads. Wine and beer. eggs, duck and pork cassou- lamb chops. Reservations rec- beers. L, D (daily), Br (Su). Bar Weland working with local NW, 202.331.8118 202.342.6258 hour specials. L, D (daily). 2122 L (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 1513 let, parmesan leek risotto, key ommended. L (M-Th), D (daily), till late. 106 S. Union St. (at King farms to produce seasonal P St. NW, 202.296.1950 Metro: 17th St. NW, 202.733.5623 Metro: lime pie. Kids menu. Cocktails, Br (F-Su). 600 Montgomery St., St.) 571.970.3669 dishes in a warm, wood-ac- MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S PLUME Dupont Circle Dupont Circle beers on tap. Green-friendly 571.312.4117 cented space. Whole-roasted Seafood Famed West Coast American Ralf Schlegel’s interior with wood from an VOLA’S DOCKSIDE GRILL AND vegetables, housemade restaurant with clubby quar- Michelin-starred restau- BOQUERIA THE RIGGSBY Amish barn. D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa- MOUNT VERNON INN HI-TIDE LOUNGE pastas, locally sourced fish ters for fresh catches, bass, rant with luxe dishes à la Spanish Inspired by tapas American Retro-style digs Su). 1813 Columbia Road NW, Southern Candlelit dining with Seafood Named for the and meat. Cocktail menu, oysters, draft beers, single Monticello’s gardens inside bars of Barcelona, lively spot inside the Carlyle Hotel as 202.234.6732 George and Martha favorites city’s feisty first woman city Euro-focused wines. D (Tu-Su), malts. Hours vary by site. elegant Jefferson Hotel. Prix for zesty bites like Colorado backdrop for James Beard like hoecakes, peanut and manager with a hand in the Br (Sa-Su). 524 Eighth St. SE, 1652 K St. NW, 202.861.2233 fixe, chef’s tasting. Foie gras lamb skewers with pickled Award-winner Michael TAIL UP GOAT chestnut soup, plus cheddar waterfront’s development, a 202.506.2445 Metro: Farragut North; 145 terrine, lobster gratin, risotto, shallots, quail eggs and chori- Schlow’s elevated classics. American Up-and-comers burger, duck with apricot casual and friendly spot for National Harbor Blvd., Oxon Angus prime filet, bison with zo, bacon-wrapped dates, Roast chicken, tuna tartare, with lauded resumes (Komi, sauce, crab cakes, fried seafood comfort foods. Fish GOOD STUFF EATERY Hill, Md., 301.567.6224; Reston blueberry barbecue sauce. Ibérico ham, artisanal chees- rack of lamb and slow-cooked Little Serow) in their own laid- chicken, steaks. Children’s and chips, crab cakes, fried American “Top Chef” con- Town Center, Reston, Va., Cozy nooks, 1,300-label wine es, churros. Sangria, cava salmon. B, L, D (daily), Br back Michelin-starred spot. menu. Fireplace. Live music chicken with water views. Hi- testant Spike Mendelsohn’s 703.481.6600; 8484 Westpark cellar, landscape murals cocktail, sherries, wines. L, D (Sa-Su). 1731 New Hampshire Inventive twists on classics: some nights. L (M-F), D (Tu- Tide Lounge for bar bites, fro- specialty burgers, hand-cut Drive, McLean, Va., 703.848.8000; on silk and fireplace. Free (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 1837 M St. NW Ave. NW, 202.787.1500 Metro: smoked potato ravioli, lamb Sa), Br (Sa-Su). 3200 Mount zen cocktails, beer, wine. L, D fries, old-fashioned shakes. 2010 Crystal Drive, Arlington, Va., parking. The Greenhouse for 202.558.9545 Metro: Dupont Dupont Circle ribs. D (daily). 1827 Adams Mill Vernon Memorial Parkway, (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 101 N. Union Modern-rustic counter ser- 703.413.6400 Metro: Crystal City light fare, Quill for cocktails. Circle (South) Road NW, 202.986.9600 703.799.6800 St., 703.935.8890 vice, communal table, cell D (Tu-Sa). 1200 16th St. NW, SUSHI TARO phone charging stations. L, MORTON’S 202.448.3227 DUKE’S GROCERY Japanese Michelin-starred ALEXANDRIA, VA. NASIME CAPITOL HILL D (M-Sa); Airport B, L, D (daily). Steaks Handsome spaces for British/American Eclectic East second-story spot with CHART HOUSE Japanese Cozy modern dining ACQUA AL 2 303 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, locals and power lunchers London-inspired bites with cherry wood walls and tatami Seafood On Old Town wa- room on bustling main drag Italian Restaurant of 202.543.8222 Metro: Capitol digging into porterhouse, an ever-changing menu (see rooms, kimonoed hostess terfront with fresh seafood in Old Town, pampering chef-owner Ari Gejdenson South; 2110 Crystal Drive, and exotic sushi (flute fish, live and capital views. Crab with high-end tasting menu with recipes like beef fillet Arlington, Va., 703.415.4663 scallops) by master chef Nobu soup, spiced ahi, snapper highlighting from-scratch with blueberry sauce, grilled Metro: Crystal City Yamazaki and team. L (M-F), Hemingway, prime rib, Japanese dishes at an afforda- eggplant, parmesan cheese D (M-Sa). 1503 17th St. NW, “hot chocolate” lava cake. ble price. D (daily). 1209 King appetizers plus soups and ROSE’S LUXURY Eat, Drink, SHAW 202.462.8999 Metro: Dupont Beer, wine, whiskeys. Happy St., 703.457.0146 salads. L (Tu-Sa), D (daily). 212 American In a Barracks Row Circle "XPSMEPGýBWPST TUFQTGSPN$IJOBUPXO UIFA world of fl avors, steps from Chinatown, the hour weekdays. L (M-Sa), D Seventh St. SE, 202.525.4375 “farmhouse,” Michelin-starred, (daily), Br (Su). 1 Cameron St. RT’S RESTAURANT no-reservations spot for $POWFOUJPO$FOUFSBOE64USFFUOJHIUMJGFConvention Center and U Street nightlife. FOGGY BOTTOM/ 703.684.5080 Cajun/Creole Neighborhood CAFE BERLIN small plates (pork and lychee Use our free mobile app, DineinShaw, WEST END spot with character and German & European In salad, clams and white wine) to see over 100 options. BEEFSTEAK COLUMBIA FIREHOUSE sounds from zydeco to blues. three former town houses, or family-style meals (fried XXXTIBXNBJOTUSFFUTPSHwww.shawmainstreets.org American/Vegetarian From American Inside the former Known for Jack Daniels shrimp, traditional and light fare: chicken). Upstairs bar (same José Andrés, fast-casual 19th-century Columbia Steam alligator stew, gumbos, po- schnitzels, pork medallions, food). D (M-Sa). 717 Eighth St. WE WINE. CAJUN & CREOLE serving veggie-heavy menu Engine Fire Company, a two- boys, seafood, she-crab goulasch. Housemade tradi- SE, 202.580.8889 WE DINE. of bowls (some meat, too). tiered brasserie/bar with glass soup and crawfish étouffée. tional cakes and tarts. German COOKING Fresh-pressed juices, wine atrium. Raw bar, small plates Cocktails, beers. L (M-Sa), wines and beers. Popular TED’S BULLETIN WE BURGER. and local craft beer, plus and “supper” (comfort food, D (daily). 3804 Mount Vernon sidewalk tables in good American Lively spot with 1934 9th Street, NW Spindrift sodas. B, L, D (daily). 1005 7th Street, NW | (202) 638-0414 burgers, steaks and chops). L Ave., 703.684.6010 weather. L (M-F), D (daily), Br vintage decor and leather UI4USFFU /8t 202-627-2687 800 22nd St. NW, 202.296.1439 (Tu-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 109 (Su). 322 Massachusetts Ave. booths. All-day breakfast, www.thecapitalburger.com www.poboyjim.com Metro: Foggy Bottom-GWU; S. Saint Asaph St., 703.683.1776 TRADEMARK NE, 202.543.7656 Metro: Union barbecue, chili, “supper” 1528 Connecticut Ave. NW, American In the Westin, Station dishes. Pastries like pies and 202.986.7597 Metro: Dupont FISH MARKET sophisticated gastropub “pop tarts.” Bar with milk- Italian/Tuscan Circle (North); 4531 Wisconsin American Housed in a named for nearby patent CHIKO shakes, malts and cocktails. µ0]ZRO\R^ZOgTcZbOYSa]\ Ave. NW, 202.244.2529 bVSb`WSRO\Rb`cS¶ Cuisine two-century-old ship ware- office (see famous inventor Asian DC’s Scott Drewno B, L, D (daily). 505 8th St. SE, ´;WQVSZW\5cWRS house serving seafood photos). British spins on Bass (The Source) and Danny Kim 202.544.8337 Metro: Eastern Baja California Cocktails & Cuisine “Wicked good” —Zagat CHALIN’S /JOUI4USFFU /8t favorites including Atlantic Ale fish and chips, beer can (Mandu) joining forces for Market; 1818 14th St. NW, UI4USFFU /8r 1316 9th Street,2108 8th NW Street, • 202-588-8954 NW Chinese Mandarin, Szechuan salmon, snow crab legs, oys- chicken and mac and cheese. Chinese and Korean flavors in 202.265.8337; 11948 Market St., XXXDPSUF[CBSEDDPN 202-768-9292www.SanLorenzoDC.com t| www.tastyburger.com and Cantonese dishes by ters and whole Maine lobster, Inventive cocktails. Happy cumin lamb stir-fry, pork and Reston, Va.; 2911 District Ave., chefs with a “century of plus pasta, jambalaya, burg- hour punch specials, bar kimchi potstickers, rib eye Fairfax, Va., 571.830.6680 ;WR/bZO\bWQ experience.” Contemporary ers, tacos. Festive Anchor Bar late. B, D (daily), Br (Su). 2080 with rice cakes. Vegetarian, @SUW]\OZ takes on traditional cuisine: with 16 high-definition TVs for Jamieson Ave., Alexandria., Va., gluten-free. “Kitchen Counter” DOWNTOWN soups, dumplings, seafood 1cWaW\S sports, happy hour specials. L, 703.253.8640 with views of the action for up EQUINOX RESTAURANT pork, duck, beef, noodles. D (M-F), Br (Sa-Su). 105 King St., to four (reserve online). “After American Conscientious, µBVST]]RWa\]bVW\UaV]`b]TabSZZO`¶;WQVSZW\5cWRS “Comfort Food with Flair” —Washington Post Vegetarian, low-sodium and 703.836.5676 Dark” series with guest chefs prize-winning Todd Gray pair- /JOUI4USFFU /8r   0ZOURS\/ZZSg

18 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 19 Food Food

St. NW, 202.293.6000 Metro: Oxon Hill Road, Oxon Hill, Md., CRIMSON DINER Crystal Drive, Arlington, Va., Farragut West 301.971.6050 Southern The Hilton brothers’ 703.413.8181 attractive eatery inside mod- EL CHALAN VOLTAGGIO BROTHERS DC’s FIRST AUTHENTIC ern Pod Hotel. Bright space for LEGAL SEA FOODS Peruvian D.C.’s oldest Peruvian STEAK HOUSE PERUVIAN RESTAURANT all-day breakfast and Southern Seafood Famed for its lobster, cafe with lomo saltado (filet Steakhouse Celebrity chef classics (biscuits with sausage raw bar, clam chowder and strips with fried potato), brothers Michael and Bryan 1924 I Street, NW gravy, fried green tomato an award-winning wine list. South American-style paella Voltaggio’s joint effort in ritzy Washington, DC BLT, gumbo, shrimp and Most locations L & D (daily). drawing World Bank crowd. MGM National Harbor resort. Near Farragut West grits). Coffee bar pouring 704 7th St. NW, 202.347.0007 and Foggy Bottom Touted by Hispanic Magazine Residence-like digs with Blanchard’s. Homemade Metro: Gallery Pl-Chinatown; as among top 50 U.S. Latin “rooms” for dining and imbib- Reservations: 202-293-2765 • www.elchalandc.com desserts. B, L, D (daily). 627 H St. 2301 Jefferson Davis Highway, restaurants. L, D (M-Sa). 1924 I ing. Dry-aged USDA prime, NW, 202.847.4459 Metro: Gallery Arlington, Va., 703.415.1200 (Eye) St. NW, 202.293.2765 Metro: American wagyu plus classics Pl-Chinatown Metro: Crystal City; Ronald Farragut West with a modern twist wedge Reagan Washington National salad dusted with gorgonzola DBGB KITCHEN AND BAR Airport, Terminal C, Arlington, KAZ SUSHI BISTRO “snow,” tuna “steak tartare.” We invite you to French Daniel Boulud’s bus- Va., 703.413.9810 Metro: Ronald Japanese Prized chef Kazuhiro Extensive wine list; Timeline our cozy restaurant tling bistro in CityCenter. Reagan Washington National Okochi’s intimate spot for of cocktails from 1670’s on Capitol Hill for House-cured meats, seafood, Airport; Tysons Galleria, 2001 seared albacore tuna, pork “Clarified Milk Punch” to 2005’s authentic German burgers, suckling pig. Glass International Drive, McLean, belly lettuce wrap, grilled “5-Spice Penicillin.” D (Tu-Su). cuisine & beer. Enjoy walls, casual seats in Bar Va., 703.827.8900 baby octopus. Tasting menu, 101 MGM National Ave., Oxon our outdoor patio, Room, china plates signed by bento boxes, sakes. Counter Hill, Md., 301.971.6060 celeb chef pals. Good spirits, MOMOFUKU weather permitting. seats near the knife work. French-focus wine list, unique Asian Prize-winning chef L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1915 I (Eye) St. NORTHEAST D.C. A short walk from beers. L (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa- David Chang’s popular NYC NW, 202.530.5500 LE GRENIER GERMAN CUISINE Union Station Su). 931 H St. NW, 202.695.7660 spot for pork buns, ramen in a brick row house. French Homey, yet romantic IN THE NATION’S CAPITAL Metro: Metro Center or Gallery noodles, “bo ssam” whole GEORGETOWN bi-level bistro with an antique Pl-Chinatown roasted pork shoulder lettuce 322 Massachusetts Ave, NE • Washington, DC CHEZ BILLY SUD attic setting. Classic fare ele- wraps ($$$$) with Korean twist. 202.543.7656 • cafeberlin-dc.com French Brothers Eric Hilton gantly presented: braised beef FIG & OLIVE Limited number of reserva- and Ian Hilton’s classic bistro. stew, snails in parley-garlic Mediterannean California cool tions accepted through web- Boeuf Bourguignon, steak butter, duck breast, salads, meets the South of France site. L (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). frites, roasted butternut cheeses, desserts. D (Tu- at chic CityCenterDC. Two- 1090 I St. NW, 202.602.1832 AUTHENTIC SZECHUAN, squash soup served in a cozy Su), Br (Sa-Su). 502 H St. NE, MANDARIN & story space (plus two bars) Metro: Metro Center or Gallery residence-like space. L (Tu-F), 202.544.4999 CANTONESE CUISINE serving dishes like crostini, Pl-Chinatown D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 1039 31st St. housemade pasta, grilled NW, 202.965.2606 MASSERIA scallop bouillabaisse, whole OCEANAIRE SEAFOOD ROOM Italian A glam patio with branzino, beef carpaccio. L Seafood Swank “oceanliner” FIOLA MARE granite fire pits leading into (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 934 where celebs, power lunchers Seafood James Beard Award- Nicholas Stefanelli’s Michelin- Palmer Alley NW, 202.559.5004 go for fresh catches. Alaskan winner Fabio Trabocchi’s ven- starred ode to Italy’s Puglia Metro: Metro Center or Gallery King crab, Coho salmon, Dover ture by the river. Brinn Sinnott region. Set-price menu of Pl-Chinatown sole. Also crab cakes, steaks, sending out oysters, smoked elegantly prepared season- oyster bar. Valet $12. cod, Maine lobster, yellowfin al dishes in four, five or six Dine-in ~ Carry-out ~ Delivery ~ Online Ordering FIOLA L (M-F), D (daily). 1201 F St. NW, tuna carpaccio, appletart, courses. Check website for Italian James Beard Award- 202.347.2277 Metro: Metro Center Sardinian ricotta doughnuts. latest prices. No sneakers/ 1912 I (Eye) St. NW 202.293.6000 winning Fabio Trabocchi Cocktails to mocktails. L (Tu- sportswear. D (Tu-Sa). 1340 www.chalins.com in his own Michelin-starred OYAMEL F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). Valet 4th St. NE, 202.608.1330 Metro: “villa” with executive chef Ed Mexican A José Andrés cocina (day only) $16. 3050 K St. NW, NoMa-Gallaudet U Scarpone sending out lob- with ceviche, tacos (mahi 202.628.0065 ster ravioli, rib-eye, seafood. mahi, baby pig, even cricket), PENN QUARTER/ Themed tastings. Across from stuffed poblano, hot and cold NATIONAL HARBOR CHINATOWN EVS`SWaacaVW National Gallery of Art. L (M-F), antijitos. Margarita with salt FISH BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS CHINA CHILCANO D (daily). 678 Indiana Ave. NW, “air,” 50 tequilas. Night owl Seafood Beard winner José Asian-Latin Celeb chef José 202.628.2888 Metro: Archives- bar menu. L (M-F), D (daily), Andrés in glitzy MGM Andrés’s colorful spot mixing Navy Memorial Br (Sa-Su). 401 Seventh St. NW, National Harbor, with water Peru’s Criollo, Chinese and 202.628.1005 and city views, ocean-themed Japanese. Pork dumplings, Martin’s Tavern has had the honor of JALEO artwork. Expansive patio with yellow potatoes in spicy, serving every President from Harry S. Spanish Tapas (60 hot and RASIKA outdoor bar and fountains. cream sauce. Shaved ice, Truman (Booth 6) to George W. Bush cold) and paella by José Indian James Beard Award- Live seafood in tanks high- sweet custard plus one of the (Table 12). On June 24, 1953, JFK proposed Andrés and team. Spanish winner Vikram Sunderam in lighting local fare (Maryland largest pisco collections in to Jackie in Booth 3. wines, sherries. L, D (daily). 480 a open kitchen with griddle, blue crabs, Rappahannock the U.S. L, D (daily). 418 Seventh 7th St. NW, 202.628.7949 Metro: barbecue, tandoori, curries. oysters) in global prepara- St. NW, 202.783.0941 Metro: 4W\RWb]\ 202.333.7370 www.martinstavern.com Archives-Navy Memorial ; 7271 (Pre-theater), 100 wines, bar tions. Tuna tartare, lobster Archives-Navy Memorial 1264 Wisconsin Ave NW, Woodmont Ave., Bethesda, with exotic cocktails. L (M- jambalaya. D (W-M). 7100 Washington, DC 20007 Md., 301.913.0003 ; 2250 F), D (M-Sa). 633 D St. NW,

20 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 21 Food SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc WASHINGTON D.C.

202.637.1222 Metro: Archives- CHERCHER PO BOY JIM BAR & GRILL 791 Wharf St. SW, 202.525.1402 Navy Memorial Ethiopian A friendly, casual Cajun Fun spot for low Metro: Waterfront restaurant serving popular country favorites, including RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE and authentic dishes like doro more than 20 po’boys, from KITH AND KIN Steaks USDA prime steaks, we’t (chicken stew) and yebeg traditional shrimp to teriyaki Caribbean “Top Chef” alum broiled and served on a we’t (lamb stew). Vegetarian salmon. Late night menu. L and CIA/Hyde Park grad FALL GUIDE 500-degree plate, plus bar- options, Ethiopian coffee. & D (daily), Br (Su). 1934 9th St. Kwame Onwuachi’s spot for becued shrimp, blue crab Spices for sale. L, D (daily). 1334 NW, 202.627.2687 ; 709 H St. NE, African-accented flavors. cakes, lobster bisque, seafood Ninth St. NW, 202.299.9703; 202.621.7071 “Torched” mackerel with tower. Wine awards. D (daily). 4921 Bethesda Ave., Bethesda, jollof rice, burger with house- SEE TOUR DISCOVER 724 9th St. NW, 202.393.4488 Md., 301.652.6500 SAN LORENZO ground patties and jerk-spiced 25+ MUSEUMS TOP WAYS TO A NEW PERCH Metro: Gallery Place- RISTORANITE + BAR bacon. B, L, D (daily). The Wharf, Chinatown; 1801 Connecticut CORTEZ Italian Massimo Fabbri’s 801 Wharf St. SW, 202.878.8566 & ATTRACTIONS GET AROUND FOR CITY VIEWS Ave. NW, 202.797.0033; 2231 Mexican Color-soaked, casual rustic, chic kitchen for explor- Metro: Waterfront Crystal Drive, Arlington, Va., taco restaurant and rooftop ing the riches of his native 703.979.7275 Metro: Crystal bar channeling California’s Tuscany. Pastas, roasted pork ODYSSEY City; 7315 Wisconsin Ave., Baja Peninsula with fish ribs, grilled fish of the day, Dining Cruises Glass-enclosed Bethesda, Md., 301.652.7877; tacos, elotes (street corn) truffled corn with parmesan, vessel with live band, monu- 4100 Monument Corner Drive, and tropical drinks (think roasted 3-pound T-bone. mental views. Three-course Fairfax, Va., 703.266.1004; 8521 slushy Margaritas). D (W-Su), Good selection of cocktails, meals. Two-hour lunch and Leesburg Pike, Vienna, Va., Br (Sa-Su). 1905 9th St. NW, beers, Italian wines. D (daily). three-hour dinner departures 703.848.4290 202.299.0381 Metro: Shaw- 1316 9th St. NW, 202.588.8954 daily. Boarding one hour Howard U before. Holiday and specialty ZAYTINYA UNCONVENTIONAL DINER cruises. L, D (daily). 600 Water Mediterranean José Andrés’s THE DABNEY American A two-in-one diner St. SW, 800.306.2469 Metro: Santorini-esque spot with American Jeremiah (cafe for breakfast; dining Waterfront a mezze offerings inspired Langhorne’s Michelin-starred room for dinner) serving up by Greek, Lebanese and rustic digs in hip Blagden classics with nontraditional OSTERIA MORINI and Turkish cuisines. Go for Alley for open-hearth cook- twists. Chicken parm topped Italian From Michael White, the small plates, innovative ing, using ingredients from a with Gruyere, chicken pot rustic cuisine of the Emilia- cocktails and the selection of rooftop garden. Menu chang- pie poppers. Mid-century Romagna with patio and Mediterranean wines. L (daily); es daily. D (Tu-Su). Downstairs, touches with graffiti-like art. water views. Grilled meats, D (M-Sa); Br (Sa-Su) 701 9th St. Dabney Cellar pouring wines Inside Walter E. Washington octopus, housemade pastas. NW, 202.638.0800 Metro: Gallery by the glass paired with char- Convention Center. B, L (M-F), Small-batch and sparkling Pl-Chinatown cuterie in a cozy, low-light D (M-Sa). 1207 Ninth St. NW, wines, excellent cocktails. setting. No reservations. 122 202.847.0122 L (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). SHAW Blagden Alley, 202.450.1015 301 Water St. SE, 202.484.0660 ARROZ Metro: Mt. Vernon Sq WATERFRONT Metro: Navy Yard Spanish Celebrity chef Mike CHLOE Isabella’s concept inside KINSHIP Global Lauded local Haidar REQUIN Marriott Marquis for Spanish American Chef Eric Ziebold’s Karoum’s first solo endeavor French “Top Chef” celeb Mike favorites plus flavors of Michelin-starred counterpart exploring global flavors with Isabella’s classic bistro fare Portugal and Morocco to sister Metier. Lobster French a modern sensibility. Cobia (steak frites, roasted chicken), with fine dining upgrades. toast, grilled Japanese Kuroge crudo, spiced beef hummus, plus small plates (foie gras, Namesake rice dishes topped beef ($$$$), plus whole-roasted roasted potato gnocchi, steak tartare). Crème brûlée. with duck breast or soft-shell meat, poultry, fish. Extensive whole fish. Chocolate sundae, Bottomless brunch. Mostly crab. Sangrias on tap, sherry wine list. D (daily). 1015 Seventh cheese plate. Beer, wine, French wine list. D (daily), Br cocktails. Extensive wine St. NW, 202.737.7700 Metro: Mt. mocktails. L (Tu-F), D (daily), (Sa-Su) at Fairfax location. The list. L (M-F), D (daily), Br (Sa- Vernon Sq Br (Sa-Su). 1331 4th St. SE, Wharf, 100 District Square SW, Su). 901 Massachusetts Ave. 202.313.7007 Metro: Navy Yard 202.827.8380 Metro: Waterfront NW, 202.869.3300 Metro: Mt. METIER Vernon Sq American In a historic 1907 DEL MAR SPIRIT OF WASHINGTON building, Eric Ziebold’s ex- Seafood James Beard Award- Dining Cruises Four-level THE CAPITAL BURGER clusive counterpoint to sister winner Fabio Trabocchi’s yacht-style vessel with roof- American The Capital Grille’s Kinship, accessible via private soaring digs paying homage top lounge with lunch/dinner new sister spot serving up elevator. Seven-course tast- to his wife’s Spanish coastal buffet. DJ, dancing, miles of gourmet burgers (blue ing menu preceded by hors heritage. Wide-ranging menu views. Two-hour lunch and cheese and truffle, French d’oeuvres in a salon with fire- from tapas with a seaside spin three-hour dinner departures onion-style) plus snacks place. Jackets for men/reser- to caviar, grilled seafood and daily. Boarding half-hour be- (kung pao brussels sprouts, vations required. D (W-Sa). 1015 family-style paella. Classic fore departure. Call for prices. house-made ancho barbecue Seventh St. NW, 202.737.7500 cocktails, mocktails, ciders. 600 Water St. SW, 866.306.2469 chips). Also salads, desserts, Metro: Mt. Vernon Sq Wine list focused on Spain, Metro: Waterfront

children’s menu. L, D (daily). but also France and California. SUCHMAN ©SCOTT PROMOTION 1005 7th St. NW, 202.638.0414 L (Tu-F), D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). The National Symphony Orchestra and FALL 2018 Music Director Gianandrea Noseda begin their second season together in 22 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 wheretraveler.com September at the Kennedy Center. WHERE WASHINGTON SEPTEMBER 2018 SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Sights

4 pm. $10, seniors/college FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT LIBRARY OF CONGRESS Centers listings for more info. students/military $8, students MEMORIAL World’s largest library with 202.226.8000 Metro: Capitol South FALL GUIDE (5-17) $3, under 5 free. Self- A 7.5-acre landscaped park more than 130 million Washington Monument— guided garden-only tour $3. of waterfalls and tableaux books, manuscripts, objects. World’s tallest freestanding ma- 1644 31st St. NW, 202.965.0400 paying homage to the 32nd Gutenberg Bible, Thomas sonry structure with elevator president. Bronze sculptures Jefferson’s founding collec- (closed until 2019). 15th St. NW, NATIONAL (some by George Segal) tion. “Baseball Americana” 202.426.6841 Metro: Smithsonian Sights SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc LANDMARKS and bas-reliefs depicting exploring the country’s favorite Lincoln Memorial—Greek- ARLINGTON NATIONAL Roosevelt, wife Eleanor and pastime, from its origins to the style temple with statue CEMETERY dog Fala plus scenes from the science of winning, ongoing. by Daniel Chester French. Folger Shakespeare Library Interred here, thousands of Depression through WWII. M-Sa 8:30 am-4:30 pm. Tours. Visitors center. Gift shop. veterans and government West Potomac Park along Basin Free. Jefferson Building, 10 South of Constitution Ave. NW Among the marbled edifices on Capitol Hill lies this treasure personnel. Changing of Drive SW, 202.426.6841 Metro: First St. SE, 202.707.8000; James at 23rd St., 202.426.6841 Metro: the guards every half hour. Smithsonian (half a mile) Madison Memorial Building, Foggy Bottom-GWU (1 mile) trove of Shakespeareana—the largest in the world with 82 Kennedy gravesites, Tomb 101 Independence Ave. SE, First Folios. Inside, a multimedia exhibition hall (pictured) im- of the Unknowns, Iwo Jima JEFFERSON MEMORIAL 202.707.9779 Metro: Capitol Korean War Veterans Memorial, Women in Military At the Tidal Basin, John South Memorial—The Pool of merses fans into the famous works, while an Elizabethan-style Service for America memorial, Russell Pope’s neoclassical Remembrance, steel soldiers, garden offers a lovely backdrop for strolling and occasional Arlington House. Daily 8 am- marble monument for the MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. granite relief. Independence 5 pm. Self-guided tours free; third U.S. president and main NATIONAL MEMORIAL Ave. & Daniel French Drive SW, events. And, a popular working Globe-inspired theater brings bus tour $13.50, seniors (65+) author of the Declaration Commemorating the life 202.426.6841 Metro: Foggy the scribe’s iconic plays to life. Through Sept. 23, “Form & $10, military/veterans with ID/ of Independence. Rangers and work of the civil rights Bottom-GWU (1 mile) children (4-12) $6.75, children every hour daily 9:30 am- leader. A nearly 30-foot-high World War II Memorial— Function: The Genius of the Book” uncovers the artistry and with military $3.75, military in 10 pm. Bookstore. Parking statue of King emerging from Neoclassical plaza dedicated uniform free. 214 McNair Road, (south side). South end of 15th a granite block, the Stone of to 400,000 American lives craftsmanship of rare books, highlighting one of the library’s Arlington, Va., 877.907.8585 St. SW, 202.426.6841 Hope, and inscription walls lost. 17th St. NW between First Folios, rebound in the late 1700s. Free. 201 E. Capitol St. SE, Metro: Arlington Cemetery bearing his eloquent words. Constitution & Independence Northwest corner of Tidal Basin aves., 202.426.6841 Metro: 202.544.4600, folger.edu at the intersection of West Smithsonian (five blocks) Basin Drive SW & Independence Vietnam Veterans Ave. SW, 888.484.3373 Memorial—Maya Lin’s me- morial with more than 58,000 HISTORIC HOMES By guided tour only. Reserve in explorer, aviator and humani- Emancipation Proclamation, NATIONAL ARCHIVES names of dead or missing DUMBARTON OAKS MUSEUM advance by calling or visiting tarian lived and worked here. site deemed a national mon- The “Charters of Freedom”— soldiers. Sculptures honoring AND GARDENS website. Daily 9 am-5 pm. 1411 Daily 10 am-6 pm. 1812 19th ument by Bill Clinton in 2000. Bill of Rights, U.S. Constitution, soldiers, nurses. Constitution Site of the United Nations 1944 W St. SE, 202.426.5961 Metro: St. NW, 202.234.7490 Metro: Tour guides with interactive Declaration of Independence. Ave. NW between 21st & 22nd beginnings, a 19th-century Anacostia Dupont Circle tablet technology leading Theater with free films. sts., 202.426.6841 Metro: Foggy manse plus Philip Johnson- hour-long tours. Education David M. Rubenstein Gallery, Bottom-GWU (1 mile) designed pavilion. Library for HILLWOOD ESTATE, MOUNT VERNON center with ongoing free ex- Visitor Orientation Plaza. Byzantine, pre-Columbian MUSEUMS AND GARDENS George Washington’s river- hibits. Guided tours only, res- ”Remembering Vietnam,” PENTAGON and garden studies. “Outside/ Cereal heiress Marjorie side estate, with 14 rooms ervations online. “American iconic and recently discov- U.S. Dept. of Defense HQ and In: Martha Jackson Jarvis at Merriweather Post’s mansion furnished per a 1799 inven- By Belief,” displaying the 16th ered records relating to nerve center for command Dumbarton Oaks,” the local and gardens, her czarist tory. The first couple’s tomb, U.S. president’s little-known 12 critical episodes in the and control. On-site memorial artist’s works in multiple treasures, jewelry, portraits. gardens, a blacksmith shop, immigration policies, ongo- Vietnam War; “Records of (accessible 24 hours) dedi- media, displayed throughout Cafe and gift shop. “Fabergé reconstructed slave cabin. ing. M-Sa first tour 10 am, last Rights,” documents and inter- cated to 184 lives lost there the museum and in the gar- Rediscovered,” new research High-tech Ford Orientation tour 3 pm. Visitor Center M-Sa active exhibit illustrating how in the 9/11 attack. Tours M-Th dens, through Sept. 2 (in the casting fresh light on objects Center and Donald W. 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su 10:30 am- Americans have debated cit- 10 am-4 pm, F noon-4 pm. museum); through Dec. 16 by the storied design house, Reynolds Museum and 4:30 pm. $15, military $12, izenship, free speech, voting (No tours on federal holidays). (in the gardens). Gift shop. ongoing. Tu-Su 10 am-5 pm. Education Center, featuring children (6-12) $5. 140 Rock rights and equal opportunity, Reserve online at least two Museum: Tu-Su 11:30 am- $18 suggested donation, “Be Washington” interactive Creek Church Road NW, both ongoing. Daily 10 am- weeks prior. Group tours. 5:30 pm. Ten-acre formal gar- seniors $15, college students experience, plus new film 202.829.0436 5:30 pm (Last admission at Free. Army Navy Drive & Fern dens: Tu-Su 2-6 pm. Museum $10, children (6-18) $5, under with 4-D effects. Check web- 5 pm). Gift shop. Free. 700 St., Arlington, Va., 703.697.1776 free. Gardens $10, seniors $8, 6 free. Park on site, or take site for seasonal hours. $20, Pennsylvania Ave. NW (enter Metro: Pentagon students/children (12 and a cab. Guided, audio and seniors $16, children (6-11) $9, Neoclassical (1816) rotunda on Constitution under) $5. Arrange in advance printed tours of mansion and under 6 free. Discount pack- Georgetown mansion, home Ave. NW), 877.874.7616 Metro: SUPREME COURT for guided tours. 1703 32nd St. gardens plus “special access” ages available. Free parking. of Martha Washington’s Archives-Navy Memorial The nation’s highest tribunal. NW, 202.339.6400 tours. 4155 Linnean Ave. NW 3200 Mount Vernon Memorial granddaughter, and 5.5-acre Justices convene October (between Upton & Tilden sts.), Highway, Alexandria, Va., gardens. National Historic NATIONAL MALL through June in public FREDERICK DOUGLASS 202.686.5807 703.780.2000 Landmark with largest collec- Planner Pierre L’Enfant’s grand sessions. M-F 9 am-4:30 pm. NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE tion of George Washington’s landscape. All memorials free, Free. When court isn’t sitting, Hilltop residence of the THE L. RON HUBBARD HOUSE PRESIDENT LINCOLN’S personal items other than at 24 hours. lectures on the half-hour from 19th-century orator and aboli- Free tours of the Founding COTTAGE Mount Vernon. Garden tours U.S. Capitol—Home of the 9:30 am-3:30 pm. Cafeteria, gift tionist, restored to its 1895 ap- Church of Scientology as Restored retreat where ($3). Guided tours on the hour. U.S. Congress since 1800 (M-Sa shop. Plaza-level entrance facil-

pearance with original objects. it looked when the author, Lincoln drafted the Tu-Sa 10 am-4 pm, Su noon- LIBRARY SHAKESPEARE FOLGER COURTESY 8:30 am-4:30 pm). See Visitor itates security checks for entry.

24 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 25 Sights Sights

First St. NE between Maryland gette Alice Paul, drafter of the City,” guests using a GPS- Ave. & E. Capitol St., 202.479.3030 Equal Rights Amendment. enabled tablet to uncover Metro: Capitol South Permanent galleries on suf- espionage-related secrets frage origins and the contem- outside the museum. Hours U.S. HOLOCAUST porary cause. W-Su 9 am- vary. Check website for cur- MEMORIAL MUSEUM 5 pm. Tours 9:30 am, 11 am, rent schedule. $21.95, seniors/ By architect James Ingo Freed, 2 pm and 3:30 pm. ADA military/intelligence (with ID) America’s only national me- accessible. Gift shop. Free. $15.95, children 7-11 $14.95, morial to genocide. More than Entrance on 2nd St. next to under 6 free. Spy store. 800 900 artifacts, 70 video moni- Hart Senate Office Building. F St. NW, 202.393.7798 Metro: tors, four theaters, contempo- 2nd St. NE & Constitution Ave. Gallery Pl-Chinatown rary art and room for reflec- NE, 202.546.1210 Metro: Union tion. Daily 10 am-5:20 pm. Gift Station MADAME TUSSAUDS shop, cafe and library (M-F Touchable wax figures and 10 am-5 pm) Free. 100 Raoul FORDS THEATRE photo opps with The Beatles, Wallenberg Place SW (14th St. Active stage and site of CZ(BSTPO,BOJO Madonna, Babe Ruth, Stephen main entry), 202.488.0400 Metro: Lincoln’s April 14, 1865 assassi- Colbert, the Duke and Duchess Smithsonian nation by John Wilkes Booth. EJSFDUFECZ"BSPO1PTOFS of Cambridge, Marilyn Monroe, Museum artifacts like Lincoln’s Justin Bieber, Taylor Swift. THE WHITE HOUSE clothing and Booth’s murder Presidents Gallery with all U.S. Presidential residence from weapon, a derringer pistol. presidents plus first ladies. the time of John Adams. Petersen House museum and  +/ ( -Ţ:8p/* -Ţ:8 Hours vary. Check website for Photo opps from north and high-tech Center for Education updated schedule. $22, children south gates. Self-guided pub- and Leadership. Theater and )JTUPSJD5IFBUSF (4-12) $17.50. 1025 F St. NW (corner #MPDLTGSPN/BUJPOBM.BMM lic tour requests must be sub- museum open daily 9 am- /FBS.BOZ3FTUBVSBOUT of 10th & F sts.), 866.823.9565 mitted through a member 4:30 pm. Free admission but Metro: Metro Center 4FBTPO4QPOTPST$IFWSPO of Congress at least 21 days ticket required (free, but $3 5IF)PNF%FQPU ahead. Tours Tu-Th 7:30 am- fee for advance tickets). Show NATIONAL ACADEMY OF 11:30 am, F-Sa 7:30 am- tickets same day at box office SCIENCES 1:30 pm. See Visitor Centers 8:30 am-5 pm. Advance tickets Organization promoting listing for more information. at www.ticketmaster.com or science has exhibitions and 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, call 800.397.7328 ($1.50 fee). 511 Disco er the Cradle of the Robert Berks’s larger-than- 202.456.7041 Metro: McPherson 10th St. NW, 202.347.4833 Metro: life Einstein memorial statue Sq or Farragut West Metro Center Emancipation Proclamation inside. M-F 8:30 am-5 pm. Free. Photo ID required. “Best Museum off the Mall” POINTS OF INTEREST FRANCISCAN MONASTERY 2101 Constitution Ave. NW, (Washington City Paper 2017, 2018) ++ ++ + BASILICA OF THE NATIONAL Founded in 1899 by 202.334.2000 SHRINE OF THE IMMACULATE Franciscan friars, 42 acres TripAdvisor Hall of Fame CONCEPTION of woods and landscaped Certificate of Excellence NATIONAL BUILDING Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, gardens surrounding turn- Guided tours daily, MUSEUM the largest Roman Catholic of-the century, Byzantine- 362 days a year. Former U.S. Pension Building basilica in North America and style church modeled after LincolnCottage.com (1887) showcasing architecture, one of 10 largest churches in Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia. 202.829.0436 engineering, construction the world. Largest collection of Guided tours showing repli- trades and design. “Fun House,” contemporary ecclesiastical art cas of the shrines of the Holy PRESIDENT LINCOLN’S COTTAGE an interactive structure occu- Entrance at 140 Rock Creek Church Rd NW in the world. Newly completed Land and Roman-style cata- Washington DC 20011 pying the Great Hall and con- Trinity Dome Mosaic, with parts combs: M-Sa 10 am-noon and taining some of architecture blessed by Pope Francis. Daily 1-3 pm, Su 1-3 pm. Seasonal firm Snarkitecture’s greatest 7 am-6 pm. Tours: free audio garden tours. Free. Virtual tour intallations, like “The Beach,” a or guided M-Sa 9-11 am and online. Gift shop. 1400 Quincy pool filled with plastic white 1-3 pm, Su 1:30, 2:30 and 3:30 St. NE, 202.526.6800 ® balls, through Sept. 3. “PLAY pm. Cafeteria, gift store, book where in the world. WORK BUILD,” a hands-on shop, undercroft of more than INTERNATIONAL SPY Select a city. Get the buzz. block play area with digital 70 chapels and oratories. 400 MUSEUM Learn more about what #FLOTUS1 interaction allowing visitors to Michigan Ave. NE, 202.526.8300 Artifacts like a WWII German brought to Mount Vernon. move an entire wall of virtual Metro: Brookland-CUA Enigma cipher and an East eVS`Sb`OdSZS`Q][ blocks, ongoing. M-Sa 10 am- German camera for seeing The new travel website from the 5 pm, Su 11 am-5 pm. $10, BELMONT-PAUL WOMENS through walls. Exhibits on local experts at Where Magazine. seniors/students/youth $7. EQUALITY NATIONAL spy rings of World War II, Cold Building tours daily at 11:30 am, MONUMENT War spy games, intel training. 12:30 pm, 1:30 pm. Cafe and gift 7\T]]\ZgbVSZ]QOZaY\]e Now a feminist museum and “Operation Spy,” guests as- shop. 401 F St. NW, 202.272.2448 library, Capitol Hill’s oldest suming the role of an agent Metro: Judiciary Square house (1798, with parts dating in a one-hour mission inside mountvernon.org/FLOTUS1 to 1680), the home of suffra- the museum. “Spy in the

26 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 27 Sights SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Sights NATIONAL ARCHIVES MUSEUM NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC ROCK CREEK PARK AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM of Cherokee Removal,” an carousel ($3). Check website MUSEUM One of the country’s earliest, World’s largest collection of unflinching look at the reality for seasonal hours. Free entry; At the Society’s HQ, galleries urban national parks, a 2,000- aircraft and space vehicles of this disturbing chapter parking $22. 3001 Connecticut plus Explorers Hall for exhibits, acre wooded oasis following (Lindbergh’s Spirit of St. Louis, in American history, from Ave. NW, 202.673.4888 Metro: lectures. “Titanic: The Untold its namesake waterway Bell X-1). Apollo Lunar Module the Cherokee perspective; Cleveland Park (downhill to zoo) Story,” the recently declassi- through the heart of the city. and Enterprise studio model “Americans,” exploring how or Woodley Park-Zoo (uphill fied tale about a secret Cold Shady paved trails drawing from “Star Trek” TV series. American Indians are woven to zoo) War mission and the 1985 bikers, jogger, skaters. Also Lockheed Martin IMAX Theater into the nation’s identity from discovery of the famous ship; tennis courts, golf course, sta- and Albert Einstein Planetarium popular culture to street NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM “Tomb of Christ,” immersive bles and planetarium/nature daily from 10:30 am. Pulseworks names and beyond, both Exhibits tracking the natural 3-D exhibit “transporting” center (W-Su, 9 am-5 pm) with VR Transporter ($), virtual real- ongoing. Daily 10 am- world since prehistoric time. visitors to Jerusalem for an ranger-led tours. Free (fees for ity ride. Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. 5:30 pm. Free. Groups reserve In the Rotunda, taxidermic in-depth look at this sacred some activities). Nature Center Tours 10:30 am and 1 pm. timed entry. Gift shops, two African elephant in a replica structure, both ongoing. Daily and Planetarium, 5200 Glover Free. IMAX and planetarium theaters, Mitsitam Cafe. 4th Angolan habitat. Hall of 10 am-6 pm. $15, seniors/mil- Road NW, 202.895.6070 shows: $9, seniors $8, children St. & Independence Ave. SW, Geology, Gems and Minerals itary/students $12, kids (5-12) $7.50. Gift shop. Food court. 202.633.1000 Metro: L’Enfant (Hope Diamond). Butterfly $10, under 5 free. 3-D movie U.S. NATIONAL ARBORETUM 6th St. & Independence Ave. SW, Plaza Pavilion ($6, $5.50 seniors, $7. Gift shop. 1145 17th St. NW, A 446-acre site with special- 202.633.2214 Metro: L’Enfant Plaza $5 children; free, tickets re- 202.857.7700 Metro: Farragut ty gardens, the former U.S. ANACOSTIA COMMUNITY quired). “Outbreak: Epidemics North or Farragut West Capitol columns, Arbor House AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM MUSEUM in a Connected World,” a Gift Shop and the National UDAR-HAY CENTER Devoted to activism, urban 4,250-sq.-ft. exhibit exploring NATIONAL INVENTORS HALL Bonsai & Penjing Museum (F-M National Air and Space communities and African- the causes and struggles to OF FAME AND MUSEUM 10 am-4 pm). Visitor Center Museum’s hangar-like facility American heritage. “Your contain the spread of deadly In the U.S. Patent and F-M 8 am-4:30 pm. Grounds displaying 160-plus aircraft. Community, Your Story: diseases around the world, Trademark Office, museum F-M 8 am-5 pm. Free. Visit by The Enola Gay (first to drop Celebrating Five Decades of CONSTITUTION AVENUE BETWEEN ongoing. Daily 10 am.- capturing America’s imagi- car recommended. 3501 New an atomic bomb) and space the Anacostia Community 7TH & 9TH STREETS NW 5:30 pm. Free. IMAX native spirit through exhibits York Ave. NE, 202.245.2726 shuttle Discovery. IMAX theat- Museum, 1967-2017,” sig- theater ($8, seniors/chil- on patent and trademark er, flight simulations (fee). nature projects from past archives.gov/museum dren $6.50). Cafe and gift systems. Interactive gallery WASHINGTON HARBOUR Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Free. displays; “A Right to the City,” shop. Constitution Ave. at displaying 500-plus inventors At the south end of IMAX tickets: $9, seniors $8, exploring the history of D.C.’s 10th St. NW, 202.633.1000 and their stories, plus a 1965 Georgetown, a bustling children (2-12) $7.50. Theater changing neighborhoods, Metro: Federal Triangle or Ford Mustang merged with waterfront zone with a info: 866.868.7774. Parking both ongoing. Daily 10 am- Smithsonian a 2015 model showing how boardwalk, restaurants, D.C.’s ($15) or Fairfax Connector No. 5 pm. 1901 Fort Place SE, inventions drive technology. largest outdoor ice skating 983 between Dulles Airport 202.633.4820 VISITOR CENTERS Group tours upon request. rink in winter and views of and museum. 14390 Air and U.S. CAPITOL Gift shop. M-F 10 am-5 pm, Key Bridge and the Kennedy Space Museum Parkway, THE CASTLE VISITOR CENTER Sa 11 am-3 pm. Free. 600 Center. 202.295.5007 Chantilly, Va., 202.633.1000 The first Smithsonian building Entry to the U.S. Capitol with Dulany St., Alexandria, Va., with info center, cafe, James exhibits, artifacts, interactive 571.272.0095 SMITHSONIAN AMERICAN HISTORY MUSEUM Smithson’s crypt and samples kiosks. M-Sa 8:30 am-4:30 pm. INSTITUTION National repository of cultural, from the collection and ex- Guided one-hour Capitol NEWSEUM AFRICAN AMERICAN scientific and technological hibits. Daily 8:30 am-5:30 pm, tours (M-Sa 8:50 am-3:20 pm) Venue lauding the First HISTORY AND CULTURE heritage. Thomas Jefferson’s Haupt Garden (south side) begin with a 13-minute film. Amendment. Sections of the MUSEUM desk, Julia Child’s kitchen. The daily 6:30 am-dusk. Free. 1000 Free. Admission to the House Berlin Wall and historic front LEED edifice wrapped in Star-Spangled Banner gallery Jefferson Drive SW, 202.633.1000 or Senate galleries issued by a pages from the Civil War, metal panels evoking a holding the restored flag. Metro: Smithsonian constituent’s representative plus 15 theaters and galleries Yoruban crown and iron- Ongoing: “The First Ladies,” or senator. Limited number of and 130 interactive stations. work crafted by “invisible” gowns and memorabilia NATIONAL POSTAL MUSEUM same-day passes at the CVC in- Pulitzer-Prize photo winners, slaves. Harriet Tubman’s from presidencies past. Daily Former main post office, now formation desks. Below the East 9/11 memorial gallery, daily hymnal, Emmett Till’s cas- 10 am-5:30 pm. Free. Gift museum of artifacts multi- Plaza of the Capitol between displays of front pages from ket, Chuck Berry’s Cadillac. shops, ice cream parlor, caf- media stations and exhibits. Constitution & Independence every U.S. state. New media Oprah Winfrey Theater, eteria. 14th St. & Constitution Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Free. aves., 202.226.8000 Metro: gallery tracing the digital news Contemplative Court with Ave. NW, 202.633.1000 Metro: Special workshops, welcome Capitol South revolution. “Pictures of the waterfall. Cafe. Timed-entry Smithsonian center, gift shop and post Year,” decades of award- passes required, released office. 2 Massachusetts Ave. NE, WHITE HOUSE winning photos, ongoing. online the first Wednesday AMERICAN INDIAN MUSEUM 202.633.1000 Metro: Union Station VISITOR CENTER M-Sa 9 am-5pm, Su 10 am- of the month, three months Curvilinear building of gold- Interactive exhibits, photos 5 pm. $24.95, seniors $19.95, in advance. Some same-day en-hued limestone facing NATIONAL OO and videos about the famed children (7-18) $14.95, ages 6 passes available daily at 1 pm the rising sun in keeping Founded in 1889, a 163-acre residence and its occupants. and under/museum members (Madison Drive entrance). with Native American tra- zoo with more than 2,000 an- Free. Gift shop. Daily 7:30 am- free. Discounts for military/stu- Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Free. ditions. Tribal exhibitions. imals including giant pandas 4 pm. 1450 Pennsylvania dents with ID. 555 Pennsylvania 1400 Constitution Ave. NW, Interactive imagiNATIONS Tian Tian and Mei Xiang and Ave. NW, 202.208.1631 Metro: Ave. NW, 888.639.7386 Metro: 844.750.3012 Activity Center with hands-on their cub Bei Bei. Asia Trail with Farragut West Archives-Navy Memorial projects like weaving a giant giant sloths. American Trail basket. “Trail of Tears: A Story with sea otters. Solar-powered

28 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 29 FALL GUIDE Explore SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Explore

The Observation Deck NE, 866.754.5039 Metro: Union children from $29 (discounts DC BY FOOT (call for pick up); $75 per hour- at CEB Tower Station online). 877.332.8689 Name-your-price walking long tour. 202.269.9090 tours of the National Mall, London has its Shard, and now D.C. has this DC WATER TAXI BIKE AND ROLL Tidal Basin, Capitol Hill, OLD TOWN TROLLEY TOURS Narrated sightseeing tours Guided tours by bike and Arlington National Cemetery Hop-on, hop-off narrated elegant glass skyscraper. Located just a short on covered boats along the Segway, plus bike rentals. and several neighborhoods. tours passing 100 sites Metrorail ride across the river, the building of- Potomac River with views of Four locations: National Also food tours. Ghosts of on two loops (National major iconic sites. Traveling Mall, Union Station, Old Georgetown exploring the Mall-downtown, Arlington fers a soaring perch for panoramic views of the between Georgetown’s Town Alexandria (Va.) and dark past of D.C.’s oldest National Cemetery) with 25 District’s iconic monuments, plus an outdoor Washington Harbour (de- Smithsonian. See website zone ($20). Check website for stops. $39.95, children $29.95. parting on the hour) and for details. National Mall, 955 times and meeting locations. Also two-day passes and terrace for closer looks at nearby Arlington the National Mall/West L’Enfant Plaza, North Building 202.370.1830 Monuments by Moonlight Cemetery and the Pentagon. Interactive exhib- Potomac Park (departing on SW, 202.842.2453 Metro: tour. 844.356.2603 the half hour), near Franklin L’Enfant Plaza; Union Station DC CIRCULATOR its tell the stories behind the sights, while a bar D. Roosevelt Memorial. $20, (west side), 50 Massachusetts Daily bus system running six PICKLE PEA WALKS children (4-16) $10 purchased Ave. NE, 202.842.2453 Metro: routes including east-west Three 70-minute walking and café offer reasons to linger. $22. 1201 Wilson online (plus $2 fee). Washington Union Station; Old Town between Union Station and tours focused on the White Blvd., Arlington, Va., 703.423.0600, theviewofdc.com Harbour, 3100 K St. NW; National Alexandria, One Wales Alley, Georgetown and north-south House, in which costumed Mall/West Potomac Park, Ohio Alexandria, Va., 202.842.2453 between Woodley Park and actors portray historical fig- Drive & West Basin Drive SW Metro: King Street (trolley to McPherson Square, plus a ures like Quentin Roosevelt, waterfront); Smithsonian, National Mall loop. Buses youngest son of Theodore NEIGHBORHOODS CHEVY CHASE H STREET NE U ST./LOGAN CIRCLE/14TH ST. POTOMAC RIVERBOAT 14th St. & Madison Drive NW, arrive every 10 minutes. $1, (no entry to White House). ADAMS MORGAN A swanky retail district strad- Between 3rd and 14th streets Bars, shops and cafes along COMPANY 202.842.2453 children under 5 free Sa-Su 10 am, 11 am, 5 pm. $23, Restaurants, funky shops dling the D.C.-Maryland bor- NE, an emerging zone of U Street NW between 9th and Water taxi service between children $15, under 6 free. and bars in this international der at Wisconsin and Western restaurants, music clubs and 17th. Theaters, hip eateries Alexandria, National Harbor BOATING IN DC EXECUCAR 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, area known for adventurous avenues. Restaurants, a bars, plus the Art Deco-style and galleries on 14th Street and Georgetown, plus sea- Sailing, kayak, canoe and Since 1988, rides in luxury 301.251.7064 Metro: Farragut nightlife and global cuisine. cinema and shops like Atlas Performing Arts Center, NW between N and Florida. sonal sightseeing and canine paddleboard rentals and sedans and SUVs to and from West or McPherson Sq Main drags: 18th Street and Bloomingdale’s, Cartier. accessible via a new streetcar. cruises. Private charters. See lessons on the Potomac and airports, business meetings, Columbia Road NW. WASHINGTON HARBOUR schedule and dock locations Anacostia rivers. Also kayak group events. Flat rates, SENATE TRANSPORTATION DUPONT CIRCLE NATIONAL HARBOR, MD. At the south end of online. 877.511.2628 tours of Georgetown and frequent flier points and SERVICES ALEXANDRIA, VA. Galleries, restaurants, shops On the Potomac River, a 300- Georgetown, a bustling monuments/memorials, SUP miles with select airlines. With a fleet of vehicles rang- Historic Old Town flanking and nightlife around a central acre “new town” with luxe waterfront zone with a board- URBAN PIRATES yoga, sculling classes and Tidal Ronald Reagan National ing from sedans and limos to the Potomac River, with re- fountain by Daniel Chester lodging, an MGM casino, eat- walk, restaurants, D.C.’s largest Aboard the Relentless, a “pi- Basin paddle boat rentals. See Airport, Alexandria, Va.; Dulles vans and buses, shuttling pas- stored 18th- and 19th-century French, plus The Phillips eries, shops and festivals, plus outdoor ice skating rink and rate” crew leading 90-minute website for all locations. Key International Airport, Dulles, sengers to and from airports, row houses holding muse- Collection art gallery and The Capital Wheel with views views of Key Bridge and the kid-friendly adventures on Bridge Boathouse, 3500 Water Va., 800.410.4444 business meetings, weddings, ums, galleries, boutiques, bars Gilded Age mansions. from 180 feet up. Kennedy Center. the Potomac River. Pirate talk, St. NW, 202.337.9642; Ballpark sports games and other and restaurants. treasure hunts and water can- Boathouse, Potomac Ave. and FORD’S THEATRE “HISTORY events. Also private sightsee- FOGGY BOTTOM PENN QUARTER/CHINATOWN WATERFRONT nons. Also adult BYOG (grog) First St. SE, 202.337.9642 Metro: ON FOOT” WALKING TOURS ing tours. 888.556.5331 ARLINGTON, VA. East of Georgetown, home North of Pennsylvania On Southeast Waterfront, the cruises. $22-$25. Capital Wheel Navy Yard; National Harbor, A two-hour, 1.6 mile walk with West of the Potomac, the to the State Department, Avenue, with restaurants, Navy museum, Yards Park and Pier, National Harbor, Md., Oxon Hill, Md., 202.337.9642 “Detective McDevitt,” as he SUPERSHUTTLE county encompassing George Washington retail, Shakespeare Theatre the MLB Nationals Park; on 301.300.0895 revisits sites and reexamines Since 1983, affordable, Arlington National Cemetery University and the John Company, Smithsonian art Southwest Waterfront, The CAPITAL BIKESHARE clues from the investigation 24/7 transport to and from plus bustling neighborhoods F. Kennedy Center for the museums, Verizon Center and Wharf with top restaurants TOURS & TRANSPORT Wheels for rent at 400-plus into Lincoln’s April 14, 1865, more than 40 airports. Rosslyn, Clarendon, Ballston, Performing Arts. Chinatown’s ornate arch at (construction o ngoing), din- ALEXANDRIA COLONIAL stations in D.C., Maryland and assassination. Departs from Door-to-door service, Shirlington, Crystal City and 7th and H streets NW. ner cruises and Arena Stage. TOURS Virginia. Pick up at one station theater. Reserve online. $17. group rates, charters and Pentagon City. GEORGETOWN Costumed guides leading by and return to any other. Single 511 10th St. NW, 202.347.4833 frequent flier points and Centered at M Street and SHAW WOODLEY PARK lantern light for ghost stories, trip $2. Memberships for 24 Metro: Metro Center miles with select airlines. BETHESDA, MD. NW, D.C.’s Along 7th and 9th streets Cafes, restaurants, shops, the legends and lore (ages 9 and hours ($8) to three days ($17). Ronald Reagan National A Metro-accessible zone oldest neighborhood, where NW between Mount Vernon Smithsonian’s National Zoo older). W, Th, Su 7:30 pm; F-Sa First 30 minutes free, then ride KING STREET TROLLEY Airport, Alexandria, Va.; Dulles with offices, shops, cafes, elegant brick row houses Square and Florida Avenue, a and the Art Deco-era Uptown 7:30 and 9 pm. $13, children time fees apply. 24/7, 365 days In Old Town Alexandria, free International Airport, Dulles, stages and movie theaters. In coexist with high-end shops, hot spot with top restaurants Theater along Connecticut $7. Departs from Visitors a year. 877.430.2453 hybrid trolleys running every Va., 800.258.3826 north Bethesda, the National restaurants and bars. and cocktail bars, trendy Avenue from Calvert Street to Center. 221 King St., Alexandria, 15 minutes between the Institutes of Health and the boutiques and the historic Cleveland Park. Va., 703.519.1749 CARPE DC FOOD TOURS Metro and Union Street, stop- WASHINGTON PHOTO SAFARI Music Center at Strathmore. GOLDEN TRIANGLE Howard Theatre. Walking tours featuring the ping every two blocks. Su-W Photographer E. David Luria Zone stretching north- CRUISES BIG BUS TOURS restaurants in the historic 10:30 am-10:30 pm, Th-Sa till and his team leading instruc- CAPITOL HILL south from Dupont Circle to TYSONS CORNER, VA. DC DUCKS See the capital from the and trendy U Street/Shaw midnight. Metro: King Street tional tours of photogenic Marble Congressional offices Pennsylvania Avenue NW and A business and retail hub with Ninety-minute narrated ex- enclosed first level or open neighborhoods, plus cultural sights, from the monuments and 19th-century residences. east-west from 16th to 21st two malls—Tysons Corner cursions on WWII amphibious upper deck of a bus on three and historic points of interest. NATIONAL PEDICABS and memorials to neighbor- At Eastern Market, crafts and streets hosts office workers by Center (the largest in the area) vehicles. Check schedule routes of this hop-on, hop-off Also, happy hour and private City sights on three wheels for hoods and nature. Half-day food. North of the Capitol, day and restaurant/club-go- and Tysons Galleria—plus, online or by phone. $42, narrated tour. Buses run every tours. $36-$89. Check sched- 2-3 passengers. Monuments and full-day options. From historic Union Station with ers by night. across Route 7, Fairfax Square. children 12 and under $32 15-30 minutes. Most tickets ule online. 540.923.2774 and memorials, cherry blos- $59. 202.537.0937 a busy Amtrak depot, shops Now accessible by Metrorail. (discounts online). From Union (24- or 48-hour) include ad- som, Lincoln assassination and and restaurants. Station, 50 Massachusetts Ave. mission to Madame Tussauds other themes. $15-$20 per ride

COURTESY LEGENDS COURTESY Wax Museum. From $39,

30 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 31 Scene SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Scene

MGM National Harbor THE ANTHEM Trinidad James, Sept. 11; Pete required. 2300 Wisconsin Ave. long-running whodunit At this Maryland resort and casino, high-tech Concert venue on The Wharf Yorn, Sept. 26; Ginuwine, NW, 800.616.4880; 814 King comedy with audience waterfront redevelopment for Sept. 29. 620 T St. NW, St., 2nd floor, Alexandria, Va., playing detective, ongoing. gaming tables, an intimate concert hall, an big-name rock/pop and indie 202.803.2899 Metro: Shaw- 800.616.4880; 3345 M St. NW, Free shows daily (6 pm) on stars. State-of-the-art sound Howard U 800.616.4880 Millennium Stage. Also cafe, elegant spa and celebrity chef-helmed restau- system, multilevel tiers, bars. restaurant, gift shops, free rants channel a bit of Las Vegas glitz. A recent Miguel, Sept. 4; First Aid Kit, MADAM’S ORGAN SPORTS tours and roof terrace. 2700 Sept. 10; Alison Krauss, Sept. 18; Find live music nightly at this WASHINGTON NATIONALS F St. NW, 202.467.4600 Metro: expansion takes the center to new heights, Lenny Kravitz, Sept. 24; Future rowdy Adams Morgan bar D.C.’s MLB team at bat. Foggy Bottom-GWU (free shut- with 38,000 additional square feet including Islands, Sept. 28; St. Paul & The where redheads get a half- Milwaukee Brewers Sept. 1-2; tle to/from venue) Broken Bones, Sept. 30. 901 price drink special. Pool tables, St. Louis Cardinals Sept. 3-5; an expanded poker room and a 24-screen Wharf St. SW, 202.888.0020 Metro: karaoke and rooftop bar. One Chicago Cubs Sept. 6-9; New MOSAIC THEATER COMPANY off-track betting lounge created with The Waterfront Nite Stand (reggae, funk, R&B) York Mets Sept. 20-23; Miami Presenting thought-provok- every Monday, Clusterfunk Marlins Sept. 24-26. Nationals ing works that grapple with Maryland Jockey Club, plus a new cafe and a BLACK CAT Tuesday, The Human Country Park, 1500 S. Capitol St. SE, social and political issues. Booking indie rockers for the Jukebox country music 202.675.6287 Metro: Navy Yard Based at the Atlas Performing terrace with harbor views. 101 MGM National Ave., upstairs Mainstage and the Wednesday, The Johnny Artis Arts Center. “Marie and Oxon Hill, Md., 310.971.5000, mgmnationalharbor.com smaller downstairs Backstage Band Thursday. M-Th, Su 5 pm- WASHINGTON REDSKINS Rosetta,” George Brandt’s (often local bands). Also DJ 2 am, F-Sa till 3 am. 2461 18th St. Winner of Super Bowls XVII, footstomping story of pio- and theme nights, pinball ma- NW, 202.667.5370 XXII and XXVI, D.C.’s NFL team neering musical legend Sister chines, a bar and a cafe with playing at its 79,000-seat Rosetta Tharpe and as aspir- BARS & LOUNGES raw bar. Su-Th 5 pm-2 am, COMEDY Barber of Seville” at Nationals vegan options. Shonen Knife, PEARL STREET WAREHOUSE stadium in the Maryland sub- ing protegée, through BARMINI F-Sa till 3 am. 627 H St. NW, THE CAPITOL STEPS Park, Sept. 29. Free shows daily Sept. 3; Saintseneca, Sept. 9; Lively, intimate space for urbs. Indianapolis Colts Sept. 30. 1333 H St. NE, Adjoining his experimental 202.847.4444 Congressional staffers sati- (6 pm) on Millennium Stage. Goodnight, Texas, Sept. 19; established and emerging Sept. 6; Green Bay Packers 202.399.7993 Minibar, celeb chef José rizing politics and life inside Also cafe, restaurant, gift Bad Moves, Sept. 21. 1811 14th rock, country, folk, soul, Sept. 23. FedEx Field, 1600 Andrés’ sleek cocktail spot MAXWELL PARK the Beltway. Shows at Ronald shops, free tours and roof ter- St. NW, 202.667.4490 Metro: U bluegrass and R&B acts from FedEx Way, Landover, Md., SIGNATURE THEATRE with 100-plus original cre- Wine guru Brent Kroll’s Reagan Building Amphitheater race. 2700 F St. NW, 202.467.4600 St-Cardozo Austin to Nashville and be- 301.276.6000 Contemporary plays and ations and fresh takes on project dedicated to the and International Trade Metro: Foggy Bottom-GWU (free yond. American diner fare musicals; winner of the 2009 classics. Reservations recom- “adventurous imbiber.” More Center F-Sa at 7:30 pm. $36. shuttle to/from venue) BLUES ALLEY (biscuits and gravy, sand- THEATER & DANCE Regional Theater Tony Award. mended. Tu-Sa from 5:30 pm. than 50 wines by the glass, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Tucked in a Georgetown alley, wiches, salads, tater tots). ARENA STAGE “Heisenberg,” Tony Award- 501 9th St. NW, 202.393.4451 stored in four high-tech 202.312.1555 Metro: Federal WOLF TRAP legendary jazz supper club The Nighthawks, Sept. 1; The Classic and contemporary winning playwright Simon Metro: Archives or Gallery Pl- temperature-controlled en- Triangle America’s only national park showcasing artists like Dizzy Yawpers, Sept. 8; Sarah Shook productions in an architectur- Stephens’ hit Broadway play Chinatown vironments. Charcuterie plus for the performing arts. Music Gillespie and Charlie Byrd since and The Disarmers, Sept. 12; ally striking complex by the about a chance encounter smoked trout pate, burrata. CONCERTS & OPERA and dance at Filene Center 1965. Yellowjackets, Sept. 6-8; Hackensaw Boys, Sept. 15; water. Catwalk Cafe features at a London train stop that COLUMBIA ROOM Daily 5 pm-close. 1336 Ninth Select shows listed; see venue with open-air pavilion, lawn Christian McBride’s New Jawn, Jolie Holland and Samantha dishes inspired by current changes the lives of two Spirits guru Derek Brown’s St. NW, 202.792.9522 websites for full schedules. for picnicking with food Sept. 13-15; Mike Stern-Dennis Parton, Sept. 19; Supersuckers, shows. “Turn Me Loose” people, Sept. 18-Nov. 11. 4200 acclaimed mixology den. brought or purchased there. Chambers, Sept. 20-23; Lindsey Sept. 24; Dennis Stroughmatt Gretchen Law’s portrait of Campbell Ave., Arlington, Va., Tasting room (by reservation) PX LOUNGE CAPITAL ONE ARENA Ziggy Marley Steel Pulse, Webster, Sept. 26; Andaiye and Creole Stomp, Sept. 30. comedian and activist Dick 703.820.9771 with seasonal drinks and An elegant 1920s-style speak- Penn Quarter/downtown Sept. 1; 5 Seconds of Summer, featuring Oshun, Sept. 27. 1073 The Wharf, 33 Pearl St. SW, Gregory, Sept. 6-Oct. 14. 1101 amuse-bouches, spirits library easy in a historic town house arena for sports (NBA Wizards, Sept. 5; Alanis Morissette, Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202.337.4141 202.380.9620 6th St. SW, 202.488.3300 Metro: STUDIO THEATRE (a la carte menu) and terrace. (no sign outside, just a blue NHL Capitals) and shows. Sept. 6; Jethro Tull, Sept. 7; Waterfront Acclaimed venue for bold plays. Tu-Th 5 pm-12:30 am, F-Sa till lantern marks the upstairs spot). Drake with Migos, Sept. 12-13; Wolf Trap Orchestra: 4U-A THE HAMILTON LIVE THE THEATER AT MGM “If I Forget,” Bethesda, Maryland, 1:30 am. 124 Blagden Alley NW, Spirits master Todd Thrasher Paul Simon, Sept. 14; Childish Symphonic Celebration of Named for the first treasury NATIONAL HARBOR FORD’S THEATRE native Steven Levenson’s un- 202.316.9396. Metro: Mt. Vernon and team mixing cocktails Gambino, Sept. 19; Elton Prince, Sept. 8. 1551 Trap Road, secretary, spacious restau- At the luxury gaming resort Historic venue where Lincoln flinching snapshot of a modern Sq-Convention Center with housemade tonics John, Sept. 21-22; Nicki Minaj Vienna, Va., 703.255.1900 Metro: rant with a live-music venue just south of D.C., a 3,000-seat was assassinated. On-site Jewish family at the turn of the and hand-squeezed juices. and Future, Sept. 23; “Game West Falls Church (then Metro downtairs, within earshot of theater drawing some of museum opens one hour be- new millennium, Sept. 12- CRIMSON VIEW Reservations recommended. of Thrones” Live Concert bus to venue) the White House. The Iguanas, the biggest names in music fore curtain (and for daytime Oct. 14. 1501 14th St. NW, Rooftop bar inside hip Pod W-Th 6 pm-midnight, F-S till 1:30 Experience with Ramin Sept. 8; Brass-A-Holics, and comedy, plus UFC and visits). “Born Yesterday,” 1940s 202.332.3300 Metro: Dupont Circle Hotel with sweeping views. am. 728 King St., Alexandria, Va., Djawadi, Sept. 25. 601 F St. NW, MUSIC CLUBS Sept. 14; Birds of Chicago, boxing events. Food, drinks, screwball comedy and satire (five blocks) Hanging gardens serving 703.299.8384 Metro: King Street 202.628.3200 Metro: Gallery Pl- Select shows listed; see venue Sept. 19; The Young VIP suites. Smokey Robinson, about a tycoon and his girl- as backdrop for prosecco, Chinatown websites for full schedules. Dubliners, Sept. 22; Theo Sept. 15; Sting & Shaggy, friend arriving in Washington, THEATER J rosé, cider, beer and cock- SHELLY’S BACK ROOM Croker, Sept. 27; The Clarks, Sept. 19; Timbiriche, Sept. 21; D.C., Sept. 21-Oct. 21. 511 10th Plays responding to the tails. Su-Th 5 pm-midnight, For cigar aficionados, a casual KENNEDY CENTER 9:30 CLUB Sept. 29. 600 14th St. NW, Christina Aguilera, Sept. 30. St. NW, 202.347.4833 Metro: Jewish cultural legacy. “The F-Sa till 1 am. 627 H St. NW, but elegant tavern with air- A living memorial to John F. Frequent winner of nightclub 202.787.1000 Metro: Metro 7100 Oxon Hill Road, Oxon Hill, Metro Center Pianist of Willesden Lane,” 202.847.4444 ventilation system. Lunch, Kennedy. NSO Pops: “Star Wars: of the year. Visit the Back Bar Center Md., 844.346.4664 the true story of Lisa Jura, a dinner and late-night menus A New Hope” film with live early for first entry into shows. KENNEDY CENTER young, aspiring Jewish pianist CRIMSON WHISKEY BAR plus premium cigars and rare orchestra, Sept. 12-15; NSO Suicidal Tendencies, Sept. 8; THE HOWARD THEATRE RECREATION A living memorial to John affected by World War II (at Handsome spot inside Pod whiskeys. M-Th 11:30 am-2 am, Pops: “Get Out” film with live Los Amigos Invisibles, Sept. 14; A 1910 landmark that helped ESCAPE ROOM LIVE F. Kennedy. “Hamilton,” the the Kennedy Center with hotel for drinks and bites F 11:30 am-3 am, Sa noon-3 am, orchestra, Sept. 20; MC Lyte, Car Seat Headrest, Sept. 19-20; launch the careers of Ella Teams of players testing blockbuster musical about music performed by Jura’s toasting the American South. Su noon-1 am. 1331 F St. NW, Sept. 21; National Symphony Gary Numan, Sept. 21; The Fitzgerald, Marvin Gaye and their wits to escape locked the founding father set to real-life daughter, Mona Moonshine cocktails along 202.737.3003 Metro: Metro Center Orchestra: Season Opening Growlers, Sept. 23; Belly, The Supremes. Su gospel rooms filled with clues, riddles hip-hop, through Sept. Golabek), Sept. 12-30. 1529 with wine, beer, cider. Plus Gala Concert, Sept. 22; Sept. 29. 815 V St. NW, brunch. Seated (supper and red herrings (in 45 min- 16; The Washington Ballet 16th St. NW, 800.494.8497 chicken liver parfait, jalap- Washington National Opera: 202.265.0930 Metro: U St- club-style) or standing-room utes). Themes from spies to Presents TWB Welcomes, Metro: Dupont Circle (six

eno hushpuppies, burgers, Opera in the Outfield “The Cardozo HARBOR NATIONAL KELLEY/MGM ©SEAN shows. Wyclef Jean, Sept. 7; mummies. $28. Reservations Sept. 26-30; “Shear Madness,” blocks)

32 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 33 Art SEARCH THE CITY / For more listings, see wheretraveler.com/washington-dc Art

Hemphill Gallery NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART/ Sept. 16. “Bound to Amaze: establishing the photogra- transforming the museum’s Located among the bustling restaurants and EAST BUILDING Inside a Book-Collecting pher’s posthumous career,” second-level inner circle I.M. Pei-designed museum Career,” museum curator ongoing. Daily 11:30 am-7 pm. galleries, opening Sept. 13. bars on the hip 14th Street corridor, this oasis holds modern and contempo- emerita Krystyn Wasserman’s Gift shop. Kogod Courtyard Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Sculpture rary American and European unique tomes made using in- with Norman Foster-designed of creativity has represented some of the art Garden (7:30 am-dusk). Tours paintings, sculptures, prints ventive techniques like carving canopy, free Wi-Fi and a cafe weekdays at 12:30 and 3:30 world’s most innovative artists, from Willem de by Matisse, Stella, Warhol and pleating, through Nov. 25. until 6:30 pm. 8th & F sts. NW, pm. Seventh St. & Independence and Picasso. Renovated with M-Sa 10 am-5 pm, Su noon- 202.633.1000 Metro: Gallery Pl- Ave. SW, 202.633.1000 Metro: Looper to Max Hirshfeld and even D.C.’s own more space, skylight tower 5 pm. $10, students/seniors $8, Chinatown L’Enfant Plaza-Smithsonian Mingering Mike. Beginning Sept. 29, catch a galleries highlighting works by 18 and under free. Free admis- Alexander Calder, Mark Rothko. sion on “Community Days,” the ARTHUR M. SACKLER NATIONAL MUSEUM revealing look at Renée Stout, whose works Roof terrace with sculptures first Sunday of each month. GALLERY OF AFRICAN ART often reference voodoo and fictional charac- and views of the Capitol. Mezzanine Cafe. New York Ave. Recently reopened space Sub-Saharan African art: masks, Villareal LED passage to West & 13th St. NW, 202.783.5000 Metro: featuring a number of newly textiles, regalia. “World on the ters, like her alter ego, a fortune-teller named Building. Jackson Pollock’s Metro Center installed collections. In a dra- Horizon: Swahili Arts Across “Mural,” the modern artist’s matic underground building, the Indian Ocean,” more than Fatima Mayfield. 1515 14th St. NW, 202.234.5601, 20-foot-long work from 1943, THE PHILLIPS COLLECTION Asian and Near Eastern art- 160 artworks breaking down hemphillfinearts.com ongoing. M-Sa 10 am-5 pm, Su The country’s first museum works spanning 6,000 years. barriers between Africa and 11 am-6 pm. Free. Gift shop and of modern art (1921) provid- “Japan Modern: Photography Asia; “Visionary: Viewpoints cafes. Constitution Ave. NW be- ing an intimate setting for a from the Gloria Katz and on Africa’s Arts,” wide-rang- tween 3rd & 4th sts., 202.737.4215 renowned collection: Renoir, Willard Huyck Collection,” ing display illustrating five ALTERNATIVE SPACES 9 am-5 pm. 1150 18th St. NW, Acquisition talks and meet- al. W-Sa noon-6 pm. 1662 33rd Metro: Archives-Navy Memorial Matisse, El Greco, Miró, Monet, newly acquired pictures perspectives on more than ANACOSTIA ARTS CENTER Suite 100, 202.238.6900 the-artists. Tu-Sa 10 am-6 pm, St. NW, 202.338.0353 O’Keeffe and Picasso. “Marking dating from the 1880s to 2015 300 pieces,” both ongoing. Nonprofit with a cafe, theater, Su noon-5 pm. 1533 Wisconsin NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART/ the Infinite: Contemporary tracing the development Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Gift shop. boutiques, several galleries. KOREAN CULTURAL CENTER Ave. NW, 202.803.2782 WASHINGTON PRINTMAKERS WEST BUILDING Women Artists from of this medium in the Land 950 Independence Ave. SW, Tu-Sa 10 am-7 pm, Su 10 am- Organization for the study GALLERY One of the world’s finest Aboriginal Australia,” nine of the Rising Sun, opening 202.633.4600 Metro: Smithsonian 3 pm. Some events free. of Korean culture with film DTR MODERN GALLERIES Celebrating many years of collections of American and leading creatives with works Sept. 29. Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. 1231 Good Hope Road SE, screenings, art exhibitions, In Georgetown, contem- showing original, contempo- European paintings and lauding the natural world, Gift shop. 1050 Independence NATIONAL PORTRAIT 202.631.6291 music performances. M-F porary and 20th-century rary hand-pulled works on sculpture dating from the 13th through Sept. 9. “Women of Ave. SW, 202.633.1000 Metro: GALLERY 9 am-5:30 pm. Most events masters from a privately held paper by fine artists. Th-Sa century, including “Ginevra de’ Influence (Part II),” key figures Smithsonian Famed visages throughout U.S. ARLINGTON ARTS CENTER free. 2370 Massachusetts Ave. collection of works by artists 11 am-6 pm, Su noon-5 pm. Benci,” this hemisphere’s only in the daily workings of the history. Only complete collec- For more than 40 years, a NW, 202.939.5688 like Picasso, Dali, Botero, Mars, 1641 Wisconsin Ave. NW, da Vinci painting. “Water, Wind, museum over six decades, FREER GALLERY tion of presidential portraits venue addressing issues pro- Warhol, Basquiat, Hirst. M-Sa Washington, 202.669.1497 and Waves: Marine Paintings through Dec. 30. “New York Recently reopened fea- (including new Obamas) out- moting social change. Open TORPEDO FACTORY 11 am-7 pm, Su noon-7 pm. From the Dutch Golden Age,” Avenue Sculpture Project: turing reimagined spaces side the White House. “Unseen: studios and solo shows. W-Su ART CENTER 2820 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, ZENITH more than 50 works examining Betsabeé Romero,” carved for displaying Eastern and Our Past in a New Light, Ken noon-5 pm. Free. 3550 Wilson World War II munitions plant, 202.338.0625 Gallery celebrating 40 years the importance of water to and painted tires expressing South Asian and Islamic Gonzales-Day and Titus Blvd., Arlington, Va., 703.248.6800 now three floors of 82 artist of exhibitions, showing the Dutch in the 17th century, ideas of human migration and art in an Italian-style villa. Kaphar,” highlighting under- Metro: Va. Square-GMU studios, archaeology muse- LONG VIEW GALLERY whimsical, figurative work through Nov. 25. “Dawoud the natural world, opening James McNeill Whistler’s and mis-represented minorities um, galleries. Free. Most open Expansive, track-lit quarters in all media, some sited in a Bey: The Birmingham Project,” Sept. 28. Tu-Sa 10 am-5 pm, Th “The Peacock Room Comes in portraiture; “One Year: 1968, D.C.A.C. daily 10 am-6 pm, Th 10 am- just west of the Convention sculpture garden in former a moving photographic tribute until 8:30 pm, Su noon-7 pm. to America” restored to its An American Odyssey,” looking Adams Morgan space for 9 pm. Artist-led tours 1 pm. Center for shows by emerg- swimming pool, where varied to the victims of the 1963 16th Special exhibition, weekend original 1908 appearance. back at an important year in guest-curated shows of con- 105 N. Union St., Alexandria, ing artists. W-Sa 11 am-6 pm, works create a “wonderland.” Street Baptist Church bombing admission: $12. Permanent Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Films, history, when the museum temporary art. Live acoustic Va., 703.838.4565 Su noon-5 pm. 1234 Ninth St. W-Sa noon-6 pm or by ap- in that city, opening Sept. 12. collection free weekdays gift shop. Jefferson Drive and opened, the Civil Rights Act music some days ($5), experi- NW, 202.232.4788 pointment. 1429 Iris St. NW, “Rachel Whiteread” surveying with suggested donation. 12th St. SW, 202.633.1000 Metro: was signed and the Vietnam mental theater (call for perfor- GALLERIES 202.783.2963 the British sculptor’s 30-year ca- Gift shop. 21st & Q sts. NW, Smithsonian War reached a turning point, mances and prices). W-Su 2- ADDISON/RIPLEY FINE ART MARSHA MATEYKA reer, opening Sept. 16. “Sense 202.387.2151 Metro: Dupont both ongoing. Daily 11:30 am- 7 pm. 2438 18th St. NW, 2nd On a north Georgetown cor- In a Dupont Circle town MUSEUMS of Humor,” from Renaissance Circle (North) HIRSHHORN MUSEUM AND 7 pm. Gift shop, cafe. Eighth floor, 202.462.7833 ner, works by, among others, house, contemporary art AMERICAN UNIVERSITY caricatures to today’s comics, SCULPTURE GARDEN & F sts. NW, 202.633.1000 Metro: Carroll, Cleary, Day, Dunlap, since 1983. Representing Jim MUSEUM AT THE KATZEN the funny side of art, ongoing. SMITHSONIAN Designed by Gordon Gallery Pl-Chinatown GLEN ECHO PHOTOWORKS Evans, Goldberg, Hecht, Kahn, Sanborn, Sam Gilliam, Jae Ko, Dramatic building with mu- M-Sa 10 am-5 pm, Su 11 am- INSTITUTION Bunshaft, doughnut-shaped In Art Deco structure in a Kepple, Kuhnle, Lin, Manalo, Kitty Klaidman, Athena Tacha, seum and performance spac- 6 pm. Free. Gift shop, cafés, AMERICAN ART MUSEUM building holds Joseph H. RENWICK GALLERY former amusement park, Osher, Parker, Treado, Von William T. Wiley and estates es of American University. sculpture garden. Constitution National collections from Hirshhorn’s gift collection Revamped Second Empire- workshops and photography Eichel. Tu-Sa 11 am-5:30 pm. of Nathan Oliveira and Gene Three floors of changing Ave. NW between 4th & 7th sts., folk art to LED installations plus later acquisitions. Works style museum across from exhibitions. Su-M 1-8 pm, Sa 1- 1670 Wisconsin Ave. NW at Davis. Th 11 am-5 pm, other exhibitions by Washington 202.737.4215 Metro: Archives- and one gallery dedicated to by Dubuffet, Picasso, Rothko, White House designed by 4 pm and during classes (often Reservoir Road, 202.338.5180 days by appt. 2012 R St. NW, and international artists. Navy Memorial video and time-based artwork. Calder, Warhol and current James Renwick Jr. in 1859. evenings). 7300 MacArthur Blvd., 202.328.0088 Metro: Dupont “D’Arista Legacy” exploring “Trevor Paglen: Sites Unseen,” stars. “Baselitz: Six Decades,” American fine crafts, plus Bethesda, Md., 301.634.2274 ARTIST’S PROOF Circle (North) the impact this influential NATIONAL MUSEUM OF mid-career survey including marking the artist’s 80th birth- modern works. “No Spectators: International (Brussels to painter and AU professor had WOMEN IN THE ARTS the artist’s early photographs, day with a comprehensive The Art of Burning Man,” large- JAPAN INFORMATION & Beijing) inventory of contem- NEPTUNE FINE ART on others, Sept. 4-Oct. 21. Pioneering museum dedi- sculptural pieces and new AI retrospective of his paintings, scale works from the annual CULTURE CENTER porary art in Georgetown. With Robert Brown Gallery Tu-Su 11 am-4 pm. Free. Gift cated to female artists with work examining things we works on paper and sculp- boho gathering in the desert, Exhibitions, plus film screen- Photos by Fred Maroon and in a Georgetown row house, shop and cafe. Ward Circle, 4,500-plus works. “Heavy Metal: aren’t meant to see, ongoing. tures from the 1950s to today, ongoing. Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. ings, lectures, etc. sponsored acrylic and Chinese ink works works by Avery, Bochner, 4400 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Women to Watch 2018,” show- “Diane Arbus: A Box of Ten through Sept. 16. “Sean Scully: Gift shop. 17th St. & Pennsylvania by the Embassy of Japan. M-F by Belgian artist Jean-Francois Frankenthaler, Kelly, Riley, et. 202.885.1300 casing contemporary artists Photographs,” tracing the Landline,” the artist’s water- Ave. NW, 202.633.1000 Metro:

Debongnie, among others. GALLERY HEMPHILL COURTESY working in metal, through history of this crucial collection colors, oils and sculptures Farragut West

34 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 35 Map 1 WASHINGTON, D.C. & METRORAIL Maps

VE NW

National To: Lincoln To: Shrine of the To: Washington Zoological ADAMS National Cathedral Cottage Immaculate Conception, Park, MORGAN Pope John Paul II Center, Hillwood Franciscan Monastery, Museum Meridian Catholic U. International Center Meridian Hill Rhode Park 1 Island Ave/ Brentwood 14TH & U Whitehaven CORRIDOR Park Islamic Lincoln Theatre Center RHODE ISLAND AVE NE Dumbarton U St./Cardozo Oaks Park L. Ron Hubbard EMBASSY House Source ROW Theatre Scottish Shaw/Howardard UU Rite Temple Sheridan Circle National Dupont Theatre J Arboretum GEORGETOWN Circle Logan SHAW DUPONT Circle 50 CIRCLE Gallaudet Univ. Scott Circle NY Ave/ 1 Florida Ave Thomas Mt. Vernon Circle Sq. Washington Convention Center

Farragut North 395 Mon-Thu W Washington Mt. Vernon 5am-11:30pm ASHINGTON Circle McPherson Sq. Square Fri HARBOUR 5am-1am Sat 7am-1am Farragut West BLADENSBURG RD Foggy Bottom Sun CHINATOWN 8am-11pm -GWU Lafayette Capital One Metro Center Nat’l Portrait Arena GalleryGallery Pl.-Pl.- ChinatoChinatown Union Theodore Square Gallery 66 Roosevelt Island FOGGY American Art Station ROSSLYN BOTTOM Madame Tussauds National Ford’s Harman Theatre Hall Rosslyn Theatre Int’l Spy VE Warner NEW YORK A Theatre Museum JudiciaryJudiciary Sq.Sq. E ST EXPRY KENT ST Constitution Hall State Federal Triangle Archives-es- NavyNavy Mem.Mem. Dept. Interior Stanton 13TH Dept. FIRST ST. NewseumNewseum Square 8TH 9TH 10TH 11TH OAS 12TH 50 1/2 mi 50 Museum of African American Museum of 1000 m History & Culture American Natural History Capitol History Museum Visitor Supreme MADISON DR Capitol Center Court CAPITOL Reflecting U. S. Lincoln RFK Smithsonian THE MALL Pool Capitol HILL Park Stadium J EFFER SO N DR DC Freer Gallery Air & Space Armory World War l Museum Korean War Memorial Veterans Memorial Stadium West Martin Luther U.S. Holocaust -Armory King, Jr. Memorial Memorial Potomac Museum L’Enfant VIRGINIA A Park Bureau of Plaza G Engraving V. E FederFederal Center Capitol O & Printing Dupont Circle – Georgetown – Rosslyn R South G SW Eastern E Market Arlington W

A Georgetown – Union Station ’ENFANT PLAZA ’ENFANT Women In Cemetery SH L INGT Military Memorial ON M Visitor Center EM Woodley Park – Adams Morgan – Kennedy OR IA McPherson Square Metro Gravesites L Arlington PA 395 295 RK VIRGINIA AV House W Union Station – Navy Yard Metro A Potomac Ave (Custis-Lee) Y . Lady Potomac Ave Metro – Arlington National Bird Skyland via Barracks Row Johnson Anacostia Cemetery Park Park NEW! National Mall Route

Memorial Tomb of the Unknowns Lyndon B. Amphitheatre Johnson Memorial Grove East 4TH ST.

FIRST ST. TINGEY ST. 27 Potomac N ST. Park WATER ST. Points of Interest Pentagon Nationals

WATER-ATER- FIRST ST Park Yards Park To: Smithsonian – Metro Stops Pentagon (9/11) FRONTFRONT Anacostia Air Force Memorial Memorial Pentagon Community Museum

36 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 37 Maps WASHINGTON, D.C. REGION Maps

Map 2 ARLINGTON, VA Map 3 METROPOLITAN AREA Map 4 BETHESDA, MD.

495 Farragut To Foggy Bottom West GWU National Medical Center 73 Institutes of Health 270 Walter Reed National 66 ROSSLYN Military Medical Center 72 JONES BRIDGE R D Rosslyn CENTER DR M COLONIAL ARY

WISC VILLAGE LAND A 75

66 95 ONSIN AV V

Court House Bethesda Park KENTUCK Clarion CHESTNUT 66 World War II ROSEDALE AV Memorial BATTERY LN

Doubletree MAPLE AV Y A Clarendon 495 Bethesda Y AV HIGHLAND AV V Virginia CLARENDON Arlington RUGBBethesda V Cemetery MLK Memorial WEST VIRGINIA A BALLSTON Square Dulles Information

GMU CHEL Internatl. W CHASE AV Franklin D Roosevelt V O Ballston Airport O

T Memorial Park D

ON RD OLD GEORGEORDELL AV M TTENHAM DR C CHE FDR Memorial O ST. ELMO A N SLEAFORD RD

Kennedy Gravesites T

Arlington House

A PEARL (The Robert E. ARLINGTON RD V Wolf Trap TYSONS TOWN RD Lee Memorial) National Park CORNER MOORLAND LN for the Performing Arts 495 Bethesda 66 T HWY COMMERCE LN EAST-WES EDGEMOOR LN BEVERL 95 Hyatt Regency V BUCKINGHAM GOMERY A MONT MPDEN LN Y RD Residence Inn 66 44 TH 11 295 45 TH W HAMPDEN LN 46 TH Pentagon (9/11) 495 O ELM ARLINGTON ELM O Memorial WISCONSIN A D OW LN FOREST Air Force M WILL ARLINGTON Memorial Pentagon 10 ON BETHESDA AV T HEIGHTS AV LELAND 395 395 Long 95 495 WEST A 8 V 9 Bridge LELAND Park East VD Potomac ADLEY BL DEA Park BR V Museum 12TH ST Norwood Pentagon City 95 Mount Recreational Virginia Vernon Center NORWOOD DR Highlands Park

Crystal CHEVY CHASE BLVD City Crystal City National CRYSTAL Airport 21ST ST CITY Shops Little Falls To Chevy 395 22ND ST Art Underground Park Chase & DC To: Shirlington

Map 5 TYSONS CORNER, VA. Map 6 CHEVY CHASE, D.C./MD. M OLD TOWN ALEXANDRIA, VA MapC PM2A E S H P A S T T To Ronald K Alexandria S T E OA ST PE NDLE TON S T Black History OAK UT Reagan Courtyard W ALN F R ANC IS Museum E W Metro National CT by Marriott THE HILLS PLAZA WISC S T Linear Airport

T T T T

T TT T T T S Park T

S S SS

S S S S S UT E S

ST ST ST LN MAPL T FRIENDSHIP BLVD WA E OR ON OC O S S T MONTGOMERY ST T ONSIN A CENTER ST T N

S T

O S

T N T ST DE T Lee-Fendall Westpark E Y IN S S 1000 feet

EL E RL House

MAP L ASAPH

P

A CHEVY CHASE W C Scale V

O E

N Tysons V V M A S T T A PR INC E S S

W T NS M S E MONT T V C Galleria E N C Founders The Collection at D O RO E O E C R OML E Y N Y I S L N Hoof’s Run WR N T E Park R W AL R QUAY ST

N Park & R S B E Chevy Chase

A E V TT S W U E O Y LE S T YE ATON BR OC KE 495 L AV V N E GROVE ST

A Greenway PAYN T E N A AL D S L T Buchanan O D WESTERN A M N AL S T

A S SE H Park QUE E N S T O N 355 R H

E U O

C E I

B

MOUN Hunter/ X L

L T THO MP S ONS T

W U AL A A 46

M S B T AL L Miller T Lloyd F ST C AME R ON UN

L IS

U

E PITT

A E

N

L YAL KING ST AR L IR MEWS House E Park Y

D L Tour Boat Pier

NES W E TT

O LFRED

A

E

C A MEWS

O Chevy Chase WASHINGTON

L

SAI J

F

PI

RO A C

A HO

F

R HENRY V PATRICK Carlyle D S T Gadsby’s To Ft. Ward C A ME R O N N Center MD. Tavern House T Market Square City Marina Tysons R

E RD S R OS S Museum City Hall Torpedo Factory Art Center

A W D N I C

King T AL LL WIS ONS

N

N N N N N N N N

7 N Alexandria Archaeology Corner A

N N U N Christ I Hilton Old Town S R N

RV D S Museum A C D.C. Street Wyndham Church V I George HA King St Park GREENSBORO R Washington KING 7 ST Courthouse The Masonic Lorien Hotel T Morrison T

Amtrak S Hampton Inn S 400 Alexandrian Memorial & Spa ST House Waterfront Tysons D D C H NT A Stabler- A E A T T

T T L Friendship T T T Park IN Leadbeater FRIENDSHIP BLVD

S

S S S S S S

T Friendship A S T Firehouse Corner G N ST L E S Apothecary D R Athenaeum TO ST Museum R S F PR INC E Tour Boat Pier Center Heights MILITARY RD L I Y St. Paul’s

R E

A D L E E Freedom C HE R R Y E C Episcopal Church

D R N ON P R House Lyceum, Alexandria’s Embassy Suites G K

E AL A

IA S M T E History Museum

D Embassy Suites D M Museum R Shops at S

N O NG CALLAHAN DR MAK E LE Y T

C E

S EI AL Chevy Chase

RVI Point Lumley Potomac W

CT Wisconsin I R 236 ST DUKE ST DUKE S Place Pavilion 236 RD

'S

E H BU

E L N ST

P

P

RFO NY M

G G T A

L A

R

LA Old Presbyterian TE

E S S

L

S Roberdeau

L LU A H O A A Meeting House

A O 495 ALFRED

E W Park

R

DULA C

D G WO LF E T S T

T C 43RD ST 42ND ST

AV Y T IN

N C E African MA

A

C D Mazza O Alexandria O

E

N S

I Chevy Chase American T N U

T E

O WASHINGTON

A RFAX T S O Heritage National YAL C L

U.S. Patent & H Little Theatre P Gallerie S UN Westin C

IT V Plaza

IE Trademark Office LLAN Park Cemetery of Alexandria

FAI RO EW A P Pomander M AV O 1 L R A G ER S H WILKE S S T Fairfax

S T S Shipyard Park

S S S J BALLE N WILK E S S S Park JOH D

S JENIFER ST S Square AN

E

Y

E 44TH ST N

T

R

N

T

C

A

N Y Westin N E Potamac View/ A S O

E E ME R A Y WESTERN A R

P H Windmill Hill AV A Tysons L 47

F Y ON S T G IB B PATRICK

TONL L To Corner

E L I To Mount Vernon S 69

M 95

A

M K KE I TH 'S LA

S

H

L GW Parkway R 495 T FOR D'S INGOMAR ST

A

E ER AV S OW D 66 E IS EN H W LA NDING N 64

A FR AN KL IN WY 45TH ST

S R HAR F

M W

E

N DR

38 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018 39 WHERE IN WASHINGTON, D.C.

We’re addicted to craft cocktails.

Barmini

 This month, we’re Barmini Maxwell Park Room 11 drinking in D.C.’s The space is white and I just want to go here I’ve been frequenting top-shelf craft bright. This alone sets a and drink any number of Room 11 for as long as cocktails. Here, a completely different mood. the delicious wines that I can remember, and I few of our favorite The staff is welcoming Brent Kroll and his team am always impressed mixologists weigh in and knowledgeable. pick. He is so clever in by their cocktail menu. on where they like to They make sure your the way he puts together The late-night crowd is go and what they like experience is nothing such a compelling and always full of familiar to sip. close to ordinary and comprehensive menu faces as it happens to be everything close to every month. Order: Colle an industry haunt. The For more inventive craft extraordinary. Order: dei Bardellini "U Monte" atmosphere is cozy, and cocktails in the city, visit Veruka Salt Vermentino and Vino Lauria wheretraveler.com . It most there are always good represents this bar. It’s Fontane Bianchi. I was over tunes on the radio. perfectly balanced but the moon about his selection Order: A play on a gimlet with avors that you�ve of salty, marine�inuenced made with gin, Suze, lime never had together. wines this summer. and prosecco. —Carlie Steiner, co-owner/ —JP Fetherston, beverage —Megan Barnes, beverage

beverage director, Himitsu director, Columbia Room director, Espita Mezcaleria THINKFOODGROUP COURTESY

40 WHERE I SEPTEMBER 2018