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EL REBOZO DE JASPE DE TENANCINGO

MARIANA LORENZO CONTRERAS 2 SEMESTER TEXTILE DESIGN WHAT IS A REBOZO? !

• The rebozo is a multi-function worn by women in , 6 to 12 feet long and 24 to 34 inches wide. Approximately three-quarters of the length is woven; the remainder is fringed, most often elaborately worked: usually by half hitch or overhand knotting or by finger weaving. Place and identity are communicated by the yam, the color and design of the weav- ing, the style and technique of fringe finishing, and by the manner in which the rebozo is worn.

• Beyond technique, the rebozo in Mexican culture has a strong semiotic significance in terms of national identity and religion.

• Although it isn’t worn that much anymore, the rebozo is a classic garment. 1 DIFFERENT REBOZOS

2 WHAT IS JASPE?

• The rebozo of Tenancingo is known as a rebozo of “”, “jaspe”, de “doble labor” or “de bolita”

• It is called like this because the technique and final design of the canvas.

• Ikat or jaspe is a technique where the warp is tied and dyed before weaving.

3 WHY IS IMPORTANT TO

! KEEP WEARING IT?

• There’s less and less reboceros in Tenancingo, the technique is family heritage.

• The rebozo weaving and fringing is an activity that has been passed on from generation to generation, reached by fathers and mothers to their children.

• The rebozo is one of the few traditional garments that hasn’t been lost, but the purchase and wearing of it has decreased dramatically.

• In some places, the rebozos aren’t made anymore.

• It is a hand made item of great value… it is a lifelong garment, having one is an investment. 4

THE STATE OF THE PRODUCT MARKET IN MEXICO CITY

• The rebozo, was pretty popular a few years ago… nowadays, it has become under-known, most women on the city don’t own one and the ones who do, don’t wear it.

• Although the product has been under- known, I believe that the market share is increasing. Right now there’s a boom regarding the hand-made, the organic, the fair trade. 6 PROCESS

• 1.- The weft is prepared, using cotton thread from .

• 2.-The design is drawn on the weft, then the threads are sunk in starch to be tied.

• 3.-The threads are dyed with acid dyes bought on Mexico city.

• 4.-The weft is untied.

• 5.- The weft is mounted on the loom.

• 6.-Weaving.

• 7.- Cutting.

• 8.-Fringing. 7 OBJECTIVE

• Get young people (men and women) to know the rebozo, it’s importance and history, see it as an investment, buy it and wear it proudly.Most of the rebozo things that are sold in the city aren’t rebozos (bags, clutches…)

• Open a space where reboceros can sell their products on the city, in a trendy place like Roma or Condesa.

• Talk with the reboceros and fringes about color palettes, color theory and trendy motifs. 8 MARKETING

• International brands of fast fashion (H&M, Zara, Pull and bear) sell products that have the same structure and function, for a very accesible prize, each rebozo is weaved by an craftsmen, and its cost is way higher, craftsmen alone would have a hard time competing with these fashion giants, but with a foundation or collaboration with designers, the users will prefer to invest in one rather than buying the cheapest one.

• Using social media, and user marketing (when early adopters market the product by wearing it and talking about it) get people to know the garment, buy it and wear it.

9 MARKETING PLAN

• Use social media to share the product, its history, importance and technique (in a way that is interesting), and how it could become a statement garment in the city.

• Get early adopters to market the product by wearing it and talking about it, so people know about it, buy it and wear it. 10 PERSONA

• 20 years old.

• Woman.

• Single.

• Middle socio economic status.

• Fashion conscious, likes spending time figuring what to use/buy/wear.

• Trend seeker, early majority consumer. 11 PERSONA LIFESTYLE • B-, C socioeconomic level.

• Fashion Conscious.

• Early adopter.

• Interested in culture, and fashion, pays attention to what she wears, and how she accessorizes.

• Likes matching and combining styles. 12 COOL HUNTING

• Carla Fernández:

!

• Silvia Suárez

!

• Vayu

13 FUTURE TRENDS

• WGSN says:

• Eco-conscious: products that are organic, fair trade, crafted.

• Bohemian/Folk: “Bleeding ikat patterns remain a popular design reference for fashion and interiors applications. “ !

• Sentiment: “Ikat prints settling on the season…” Ikat haze full of smudged and smoggy brushstrokes rippling through fabrics.

• Geo Folk: Autumn/winter 2014/15: take inspiration from traditional patterns and rustic blanket weaves to create folk-inspired geometric designs. 14 PREDICTIONS

Use of Rebozo 100

75

50

25

0 1580 1600 1620 1650 1700 1800 1900 1950 2000 2010 2015 2020

15 ZETGEIST

• Optimism, enthusiasm for the handmade.

• Eco-socio design.

• The feeling of knowing it’s YOURS when you first see it.

15 MARKET STUDY

• Most girls chose the infinity scarf type rebozo, because of the colors, the jaspe, and the “design” (without the fringes, more like a scarf)

• All of them didn’t knew where or how they’re made or where to buy one.

• All of them don’t own one but would buy it and wear it happily.

• It being handmade gives it more value, they definitely consider ir a “statement” piece.

• Most of them would pay $400-$700 pesos for one.

16 PRICE POINTS.

• The price of the rebozo varies on the size, materials, fringes and weaver.

• A small rebozo (1.65 m) costs around $150- 200.

• A medium (2.70m) is $300-400.

• A 3/4 (3.00m) is $400-600.

• The large (3.70m) is $600-800.

17 5 CONCLUSIONS • The fate of the rebozo is not yet lost, young people from México City are open to learn about it and buy it, helping to recover it.

• Opening a small store in a trendy place in the city like Condesa, Roma, Juárez, will help to get the product out there, known and bought.

• Getting early adopters to wear the rebozo and show it and talk about it with will make the garment popular among young adults in the city.

• Use social media to market the garment as a statement, unique piece of clothing. 18 SOURCES

•GÁMEZ MARTÍNEZ, A. (n.d.). EL REBOZO. ESTUDIO HISTORIOGRÁFICO, ORIGEN Y USO. Retrieved November 10, 2014, from https://es.scribd.com/doc/ 63549624/EL-REBOZO-ESTUDIO-HISTORIOGRAFICO-ORIGEN-Y-USO ! •Artes e Historia México. (n.d.). Retrieved November 15, 2014, from http:// www.arts-history.mx/sitios/index.php?id_sitio=7041&id_seccion=2722 ! •Artes e Historia México. (n.d.). Retrieved October 25, 2014, from http://www.arts- history.mx/sitios/index.php? id_sitio=7041&id_seccion=2722&id_subseccion=574356 ! •Styles, R. (2014, May 28). Fashion for revolutionaries! The incredible story of how the colourful rebozo scarf changed the course of Mexican history . Retrieved November 25, 2014, from http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2640556/The- incredible-story-colourful-rebozo-scarf-changed-course-Mexican-history.html ! 18 !