MARSEILLE Restaurant Guide 2017

MARSEILLE Restaurant guide 2017

www.resamarseille.com EDITORIAL

Why not get a taste of Marseille? A port with a rich history, the oldest city in France is also revealed in its restaurants. We have designed a circuit of a little over 110 restaurants, which all have in common the taste of Provence and elsewhere. In these pages, you can explore all the special flavour of the garlic, the olive oil, and dishes that are sometimes very simple, like roasted sea bream with a few slices of crystallised lemon, and sometimes very sophisticated. Because Marseille is a meeting place, a city where you will find gastronomy made from the heart. Here more than elsewhere, chefs bring nobility to the most ordinary dishes. They achieve great feats with lamb and a sprig of thyme. Marseille is proud of cuisine rooted in its identity, and if you can feel its sensitive vibrations, you are sure to be won over. So welcome, enjoy your stay here and, above all, get a taste of Marseille!

Pierre PSALTIS

2 3 CONTENTS

North Bank of the Old Port p6 The J4 / Euroméditerranée district p8 Le Panier p11 South Bank of the Old Port p12 On the road to Saint Barnabé p14 Mazargues Borely p15 Near Saint-Victor p17 Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde p18 From the Pharo to the Prado bathing park p20 From the Prado bathing park to Les Goudes p22 Also in the Calanques p23

Near Orange Vélodrome p25 Near Castellane p26 Rue Paradis Palais de Justice p28 From the Old Port to Palais Longchamp p30 Near Cours Julien / La Plaine p32 L’Estaque p34

4 5 > L’ALCYONE 1 star in the MICHELIN® guide - Bouillabaisse The spirit of the daughter of Aeolus blows through this top-quality restaurant where Lionel Lévy follows every inspiration. Here you can find NORTH BANK the Mediterranean's finest seafood (lobster, scallops, sea bass) and all the terroir of Provence (truffles, season's vegetables). InterContinental Marseille Hôtel Dieu, 1, place Daviel, 2nd arr. OF THE OLD PORT 04 13 42 43 43. Closed on Sunday and Monday. Evening service only. A la carte €99, 139 and 189.

> LES FENÊTRES An appetising brasserie with 5-star comfort for lounge lovers: gravlax salmon tartare with citrus fruit and ginger, marinated sea bass with Bottarga shavings, pissaladière tart with fresh anchovies, bouillabaisse milk-shake. A heady experience. And not forgetting the chilled white and rosé wines... InterContinental Marseille Hôtel Dieu, 1, place Daviel, 2nd arr. 04 13 42 43 43. Open 7 days a week. Lunch menus: €36 and 43; dinner menu: €43 and 68.

> LE POULPE Guide Fooding® 2017 > UNE TABLE, AU SUD 1 star in the MICHELIN® guide - Bouillabaisse A bistrot decorated by François Champsaur with Michel (Portos) and Michel Ludovic Turac in his kitchen - imagine freshly caught fish served in an aïgo (Ankri) at the helm. A view of Notre-Dame de la Garde and the Old Port. boulido sauce spiced up with anchovy and a thickened bull stew or a The dishes tell a very local story based on octopus stew and Corsican delicious young pigeon supreme roasted in smoke bacon and a chicken charcuterie. leg comfit in a pomegranate-flavoured tea. Karine is in the dining room, 84, quai du Port, 2nd arr. 04 95 09 15 91. serving wines that may not be rare, but are definitely out of the ordinary. Open 7 days a week. Lunch from €19 to 26. Evening: €40. Harmony and elegance. nd 2, quai du Port, 2 arr. 04 91 90 63 53. Shellfish Lunch €31 and 47. Menus: €48, 78, 98. A la carte €95 > CHEZ ROGER Closed on Sunday evenings and Mondays. A brand new seafood restaurant run by Jean-Luc, the worthy son of his father, with a fine selection of oysters (gillardeau, bouzigues, isigny, marennes) and shellfish. A tuna or salmon tartare or an octopus salad round off the > CHEZ MADIE, LES GALINETTES menu along with a selection of Cassis AOP wines. The smile and warm generosity of Delphine Roux can be found in her dishes: 28, quai du Port, 2nd arr. 04 91 90 60 16. clams in thyme, pieds paquets and local stew provide a noble idea of typical A la carte €30 Marseille cuisine. We have her dad to thank for the supply of top-quality meats. Character and great taste. > LE CIRQUE Bouillabaisse 138, quai du Port, 2nd arr. 04 91 90 40 87. Lunch menu: €18; set menu €30. A la carte, about €40. Christophe Verdu is a man of discretion who respects his ingredients. He Closed on Sunday evening. has dedicated almost all his life to the Mediterranean - unsurprisingly, given this idyllic location on the Old Port. Sea bass, sea bream and lobster feature side by side on the menu with everything fans of pasta and meat require. > LE CAFÉ DES ÉPICES Guide Fooding® 2017 118, quai du Port, 2nd arr. 04 91 91 08 91. Since 2002 Arnaud Carton's cuisine has always been intuitive and filled with Bouillabaisse menu €39; à la carte €55. emotion; his menus have not aged a bit: razor shell clams with a seaweed butter gratin, rack of lamb, pasta direct from Turin in Italy... It's full of life, > LE CARMINE concentrated, energetic and very Mediterranean! 4, rue du Lacydon, 2nd arr. 04 91 91 22 69. Over the years, Le Carmine has changed from a fashionable restaurant to Lunch menu: €30, dinner: €39. A la carte from €26 to 46. a culinary institution. If you like a festive atmosphere and good dishes, this is Closed on Saturday evening, Sunday and Monday. the place for you! Your evening begins with a mojito or a spritz while sharing a pizza. Next, the resident DJ's set will take you through the pasta specials (with Bottarga or clams) to the beef tagliata, the Rital burger or the grilled > LE RELAIS 50 sea bream. A not-to-be-missed "before" restaurant. nd Since arriving in the city in October 2015, Noël Baudran has won everyone 132-134, quai du Port, 2 arr. 04 91 31 93 89. over with his generous style: scallops, farmhouse eggs, beef… An assembly A la carte €4. Closed on Sundays and Monday evenings. of fine dishes washed down with regional wines. Mediterranean history is being made here every day with the help of high standards and a friendly > TRATTORIA MARCO atmosphere. nd If home-made cooking has a meaning, then it's to be found here, where each 18, quai, du Port, 2 arr. 04 91 52 52 50. day Marco plunges his hands into the flour to make his fresh pasta. With Lunch set menus €19 and €24; menus €39, 50 and 65. a dash of olive oil, tomato sauce and parmesan, his pasta soon becomes "Classic" dishes from €17 to 26. addictive. Baba, sfogiatella and tiramisu sweeten the end-of-meal coffee. 2, rue de la Guirlande, 2nd arr. 04 91 90 60 08. 6 Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. A la carte €40 7 > LE MIRAMAR Bouillabaisse > LE MÔLE PASSÉDAT Marseille folklore on a tablecloth with a wonderful view over the Old Port. LA CUISINE Christian Buffa is a generous and welcoming chef. His menus are filled In a guesthouse restaurant spirit, delicious meats, fish and vegetarian dishes. with the great classics from Alexandre Dumas to Auguste Escoffier. The Provence, Greece, Lebanon and Armenia are combined in a cultural and bouillabaisse and the bourride are not to be missed. culinary cauldron where fresh, local produce is the rule. nd 12, quai du Port, 2nd arr. 04 91 91 10 40 1, esplanade du J4, top floor of Mucem, 2 arr. No reservations. Bouillabaisse or bourride €63, à la carte from €71 to 85; shellfish plateau Closed on Tuesdays. €118 for two. Closed on Mondays. LA TABLE Between the port, the Mucem and the cathedral, here the chef Philippe > LA PISCINE Moreno's cuisine blends the Mediterranean and Provence: shredded Florent Manaudou, Jean-François, Momo and Yohann wanted diners to swim cod-artichokes-Bottarga, scallops-sweet chestnuts-coffee, and criss-cross in happiness. They asked the ex-star of French TV cooking, Georgina Viou, to nougat-blood orange tart all testify to his talent. take the plunge. The result is a fine dining room, a wonderful atmosphere, 1, esplanade du J4, top floor of Mucem, nd2 arr. 04 91 19 17 80. Lunch contemporary dishes and the soul of Provence. menu €55, dinner menu: €75. Closed on Sunday evening and on Tuesdays. 148, quai du port, 2nd arr. 04 91 89 53 54. A la carte: €30-35.

> LA TABLE DE L’OLIVIER Bouillabaisse At the end of the meal, you'll want to give Gilles Carmignani a hug: quintessence of game and floating islands with truffle, and squid stuffed with puréed pieds-paquets with thyme pursue the great tradition of classic French cuisine. Highly skilled recipes rooted in the region - the fennel tart and liquorice ice cream will make you swoon. THE J4 La Table de l’Olivier, 56, rue Mazenod, 2nd arr. 04 91 91 17 04. Open at lunchtime from Monday to Friday and on Friday evening. Other evenings, reservation only. Lunch menu €21.50, set menus €39 and 51. EUROMÉDITERRANÉE A la carte €55. > LE COMPTOIR DES DOCKS At the heart of the 19th century docks, behind the long counter, a grill and a DISTRICT plancha are enough to satisfy every need. Choose your main course and side dish (prime cut of beef with shallots, Bobosse andouillette, fried cuttlefish with parsley, green lentil salad, falafels) and enjoy. The seasoning is perfect, the atmosphere is relaxed. Les Docks village, 10, place de la Joliette, 2nd arr. 04 91 45 96 12. A la carte €23-25. Open 7 days a week, lunch & dinner.

> ALBERTINE Guide Fooding® 2017 The latest restaurant opened by the chef Gérald Passédat in the Docks Village is a cosy and intimate place, blending the blue of the sea with the green of nature. The earth-sea cuisine pays homage to the chef's mother. The family inspiration is an ode, where fish, meat and soup are at their best. Les Docks village, 10, place de la Joliette (entrance D), 2nd arr. 04 91 35 75 15. > REGARDS CAFÉ Lunch menus: €25, 35, 49 and 59. Dinner: €59 and 79. Closed on Wednesday evening and Sundays. In the Regards de Provence Museum, this restaurant with its panoramic view offers a wide-ranging menu blending Provençal specialities and French classics. Arne Jacobsen and Alvar Alto furnishings bring you the > L’EMBARCADÈRE "new Marseille"... nd Yoann Kerimel, a pure native of Marseille, is a fan of the best ingredients Allée Regards de Provence/rue Vaudoyer, 2 arr. 04 96 17 40 45. and oversees this appealing bistrot-style restaurant. A vast dining room, fast From 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., closed on Monday. Day's special from €14 to 20. service and a menu to go with it: foie gras sangria, roche rouille fish soup, beef stew with root vegetables, calves feet cromesquis. Happiness guaranteed! > LE YOJ BY YOJI Les Voûtes, place Albert-Londres, 2nd arr. 09 67 58 05 19. Since May 2014 the restaurant is fully booked at each service. The menu 7 days a week. Lunch: €25, dinner: €32. A la carte €40 combines the traditional favourites of Japanese cuisine: kani or shiki salads, sushi, maki, etc. plus sea bream, sea trout, and "Label Rouge" salmon, alongside ramen, yakisoba and the delicious donburi with a wonderful fusion food touch. Les Terrasses du Port, 9, quai du Lazaret, 2nd arr. 04 91 90 09 09. Lunchtime only. Set menus from €15.50. A la carte from €20 to 30.

8 9 LE PANIER

> SCHILLING Michelin ® bib gourmand 2017 A decor that is half Scandinavian and half 1960s brings out all the sea-flavours of the Scotsman Malcolm Gardner. The menus are based on the catch of the day: sea bass jardinière with lardo di Colonnata, cuttlefish tempura with mashed ratte potato-gnocchi with celery. The classic millefeuille and chocolate-orange tart will stir your emotions. Schilling, 37, rue Caisserie, 2nd arr. 04 91 01 81 39. Lunchtime €15, 21,50, 20, 21.50 and 31. Evening: €31. Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

> LE BOBOLIVO Julien Pauly has been doing a roaring trade for the past 6 years with some of the great classics: a wood fire in the dining room, selected meats, home- made chips. Simmered stew, bobobacon burger and Camembert braised in 51- Serrano ham chiffonade are always a hit. Excellent house desserts. Le Bobolivo, 29, rue Caisserie, 2nd arr. 04 91 31 38 21. From €20 to €30 Closed on Sunday and Monday.

> LA VIEILLE PELLE Pizza A terrace atmosphere in fine weather and wood fire in the dining room in winter. Here the pizza is king, to share and to savour. Friendly, family atmosphere on one side and white collar workers on the other at lunchtime. The braised fillets are well worth a try. La Vieille Pelle, 37, avenue Saint-Jean, 2nd arr. 04 91 90 62 00. A la carte €25-30. Closed on Sunday and Monday.

> CHEZ ETIENNE Guide Fooding® 2017 - Pizza First Etienne, and now his son Pascal are serving the cheese or anchovy pizzas. All the local celebrities have been here to enjoy a slab of braised beef, squid persillade and pieds paquets. A monument to popular cuisine, with a "Borsalino" movie atmosphere. Chez Etienne, 43, rue de Lorette, 2nd arr. 04 91 54 76 33. A la carte €25-30. Closed on Sundays.

10 11 > LE BISTROT DES DAMES Sylvie, Fabienne and their chef Sébastien are committed to a menu filled with character and interesting combinations (hot and cold medley of sea bass and SOUTH BANK herring caviare with milk whisked with herbs and cucumber), and often rich in contrasts (tender roasted beef cheek with ginger, lemongrass and sesame seeds). You'll devour the menu with your eyes. OF THE OLD PORT Le Bistrot des Dames, 34, place aux Huiles, 1st arr. 06 99 22 25 03. Lunch set menu: €18. A la carte, about €45. Open 7 days a week.

> LES ARCENAULX Bouillabaisse At Jeanne and Simone Laffitte's place, everything is tempting: rossini beef piccolo, stir-fried fresh duck foie gras with truffle sauce, pieds et paquets, tagliatelle in cuttlefish ink, squid with persillade, aniseed-flavoured tomatoes and crab bouillon. Eric Cornilleau makes a truly memorable bouillabaisse. 25, cours d’Estienne d’Orves, 1st arr. 04 91 59 80 30. Lunch set menu €26. Menus €32, 35 42, 65. Bouillabaisse made to order: €50.

> LA CANTINE As the years go by, the more this restaurant is part of the history of Cours > COMPTOIR DES PANISSES d’Estienne d’Orves. Resolutely Mediterranean, with a dash of olive oil, a sprinkling of garlic and basil, and awakening the gourmet instinct of their The shellfish counter at the entrance rounds off the brasserie spirit of this regular customers, the chef's suggestions follow the seasons. gourmet restaurant with razor shell clam persillade with orange, foie gras, st Gers poultry and Allaiton lamb from Aveyron. To the sound of the glasses 27, cours d’Estienne d’Orves, 1 arr. 04 91 33 37 08. clinking and the cutlery hard at work, the traditional desserts delight a loyal Open 7 days a week. A la carte from €30 to 40. clientele. st Les Panisses, 23, rue Sainte, 1 arr. 04 91 52 86 83. > LE 13B BISTROT Lunchtime: €18 and 25. A la carte: €40. Closed on Sunday, Monday evening From Gabon where he grew up, Edouard Balestier has kept a taste for and Tuesday evening. sun-soaked atmospheres and shaded terraces. His chef, Nicolas Carrilero, has conceived a gravlax salmon encircled with mango and raspberry, and > LA COTE DE BOEUF sets his red mullet fillets on a risotto in cuttlefish ink. Inspiration in harmony with the seasons... The Ceccarini/Guéganic duo are merciless in maintaining the quality of their st braised prime rib of beef. Pork, veal chops, duck fillet, veal kidneys also have 13, rue Breteuil, 1 arr. 04 91 33 08 67. their fans. The salads and vegetarian dishes are always a hit. Closed on Sunday and Monday, and on Tuesday and Wednesday evening. Worth noting: the sublime cellar with 1200 different wines... A la carte €37. 35, cours Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves 1st arr. 04 28 31 26 03. Lunch set menu: €24. Menus €34 and 40. A la carte: €40-60. > PASTIS ET OLIVES A meal at Olivier Luisetti's restaurant is practically the embodiment of the > LA TABLE DU FORT Marseille way of life: sardine fillets, panisses, omelette (cheese, pancetta), pasta with garlic or carbonara, grilled tuna and flank steak marinated in soya With surprising regularity Nicolas Muller's excellent culinary reputation sauce are guaranteed to win you over. Tiramisu with Nutella and Granola, progresses: the popular beef cheek stew crust with linguine and basil and a pear Bourdalou tart are the finishing touches. alongside the aristocratic scallops, Jerusalem artichoke royale and risotto st in green truffle sauce. Great value for money and finely adjusted seasoning 27, rue Sainte 1 arr. 04 91 54 08 27. Menu €17, à la carte €30. round off the restaurant's attractions. From Monday to Saturday lunchtime and from Thursday to Saturday 8, rue Fort Notre-Dame, 7th arr. 04 91 33 97 65. Closed on Monday evening. lunchtime, Saturday lunchtime and Sundays. Lunch menus: €19, 27. Evening: €29, 32, 36 and 50. A la carte €49. > LA POULE NOIRE 2007-2017 Franck and Sophie are celebrating 10 years of success - a goose > PAULE ET KOPA Pizza breast fillet with mild spices and orange, and crispy monkfish with black The creations of this chef, with the "maître restaurateur" label, are rich in sesame seeds-butternut ginger coriander along with a coconut risotto. The garlic and happiness. Classic pizzas with a fine crust (mozzarella, anchovies, finesse of the ingredients and respect for the seasons: you'll be hungry just royal), the delicious pasta (linguine with pistou or with Bottarga), fried squid reading the menu. with a persillade and lamb chops in thyme. White table cloths and smiles 61, rue Sainte 1st arr. 04 91 55 68 86. Closed on Monday and Tuesday a-plenty. evening, Saturday lunchtime and Sundays. Lunch set menus €12.50, 16, 18 Paule et Kopa, 42, place aux Huiles, 1st arr. 04 91 33 26 03. and 19. Evening: €38. Closed on Sundays and public holidays. A la carte from about €20 to 40.

12 13 > BRASSERIE DU PORT - OM CAFÉ Here the atmosphere is blue and white and the photos of the great players of Marseille gaze down on the supporters. Tartares (flank steak of salmon), salads (Italian or cured ham), pasta and fish (grilled gilt-head bream, squid) MAZARGUES help create the atmosphere. If possible go on a match day. 25, quai des Belges, 1st arr. 04 91 33 80 33. Open 7 days a week. A la carte €30-35. BORÉLY

> LE BISTROT A VINS Pizza In front of the painted wood restaurant front are hiding some of the genre's ÉL classics: grilled pepper and marinated anchovy tapenade on bread, fried tuna simmered in ratatouille, alouettes sans tête. Wines by independent winemakers sold by the glass or by the bottle. 17, rue Sainte 1st arr. 04 91 54 02 20. Closed on Sunday, Saturday lunchtime, Monday evening. Day's special €12. A la carte from €25-30.

> L’AROMAT Bouillabaisse Sylvain Robert's classics are the bouillabaisse hamburger and the beef steak freshly smoked with herbes de Provence, summing up all the energy and enthusiasm of a chef who takes great care of his customers, and who have become his friends. 49, rue Sainte 1st arr. 04 91 55 09 06. Closed on Saturday lunchtime, Sunday and Monday evening. > EMILIO Lunch set menus: €17 or 19 / €22. A la carte €40 and 60. A fine food selection, a terrace and a delightful accent announcing the Parma ham-bocconcini di mozzarella, beef cannelloni, Neapolitan sausage gnocchis or the pappardelle with artichoke cream-grilled artichoke hearts. A discreet restaurant, favoured by enlightened gourmets. 70, avenue de Mazargues, 8th arr. 04 91 32 67 76. ON THE ROAD Closed on Sundays. A la carte €38. > LE CAFÉ BORÉLY Guide Fooding® 2017 At Ariel Lorin's restaurant, the ingredients are at the core of the high TO SAINT BARNABÉ standards. The slate menu changes each week, everything is made onsite using fresh, organic Fair Trade produce. Vegetarians will have a field day, as will children, who are given a royal welcome. In the beautiful château outbuildings. 132, avenue Clot-Bey 8tharr. 04 91 22 46 87. From 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., closed on Monday. Main course €16, rib steak €24. Sundays, brunch €28.

> LA BASTIDE MASSIMO > LE VENTRE DE L’ARCHITECTE Take note - an ultra-rare restaurant with a magnificent garden in the heart A historic building and a unique restaurant. 30 places, with the chef, Jérôme of the city. Massimo's smiling face recites a menu filled with Tuscan pork Caprin, a fan of seasonal ingredients and respect for traditions: bourride, meats, parmesan aubergines, penne with scampi, gnocchi (gorgonzola and roasted king prawns-freshly cooked shellfish guacamole and rosemary speck, with boletus mushrooms) and risotto plus the delicious bocconcini... cream. A spirited and impetuous achievement at the age of 36. A glass of Prosecco before dinner? 3e rue, immeuble la Cité radieuse - Le Corbusier 30, rue poucel 4th arr. 09 86 26 56 72. 280, bd Michelet, 8th arr. 04 91 16 78 23. Closed on Saturday lunchtime, Sunday, Monday. A la carte €35-40. Closed on Sunday and Monday. Lunch menus: €29, dinner: €61.

> LA VILLA MARIE-JEANNE Guide Fooding® 2017 - Bouillabaisse In a vaulted 18th century cellar, Valeilles de Montmirail selects the bottles of natural wine that you can uncork with him. Set menus offering a "best-of" Provence-Marseille-style cuisine: mussel éclade, small snails… The great- grandson of the founder of the Marseille football team is a legend, and so is his cuisine. Bouillabaisse menu: €65. 4, rue Chicot, Marseille, 13th arr. 14 Reservations required on 04 91 85 51 31. 15 NEAR SAINT-VICTOR

> LA RELÈVE Guide Fooding® 2017 The old-style bistrot has stood the test of time with the priceless Greg Hessmann behind the bar. At lunchtime we love the traditional mustard andouillette, stir-fried cuttlefish, spare ribs or a ceviche de saint-pierre. Carefully selected ingredients, energetic and precise cuisine. Not to mention the chocolate cake... 41, rue d’Endoume, 7th arr. 04 95 09 87 81. Closed on Sundays. Lunchtime: About €35. In the evening, tapas menu.

> LA PASSARELLE A garden - the countryside just a step or two away from the Old Port, with a relaxed spirit, an ecological and bohemian boboland. The vegetables come from community-supported farms, the ewe's milk cheese from Puy Sainte-Réparade. Stuffed courgette blossom brandade and slice of lean chorizo asparagus to die for. 52, rue Plan Fourmiguier, 7th arr. 04 91 33 03 27. A la carte €40

> LA VELADA It's not unusual to see medallists from the neighbouring Cercle des Nageurs swimming club here. As well as the pizzas, you can enjoy a poached pollock in hollandaise sauce with winter vegetables, duck breast fillet in vanilla sauce, celery purée, fresh spinach, young broad beans and fried potatoes, skewered boconcini in marsala and, of course, the delicious farfalle alla puttanesca. 31, rue d’Endoume, 7th arr. 04 91 52 93 68. A la carte €35. Closed on Sundays, Monday evenings and Saturday lunchtime in summer.

> LE COUTEAU For lovers of meat(s) Jérémy and Pam came up with the idea of this simple but perfectly achieved restaurant: roast marrowbone-preserved onions with mustard and herbs, braised beef cheek with fresh gnocchi, farmhouse sausage. Choose your side dish and enjoy the ride all the way to the dark chocolate cream. 145, rue Sainte 7th arr. 04 91 52 93 68. Closed on Sundays and Mondays, and Saturday lunchtimes. Day's special: around €10-11. A la carte €25-30. 16 17 NOTRE DAME DE-LA-GARDE

> L’EAU VIVE Beneath the basilica, the missionary workers from the Immaculate Conception serve home cooking: roast chicken-duchesse potatoes, aïoli, raw vegetables, fresh rocket salads with mango and prawns, pancakes and baba au rum. Everything is fresh, and great value for money. A welcome smile on top of it all. Sanctuaire de Notre-Dame de-la-Garde, 6th arr. 04 91 37 86 62. Menus €13, 18.80 and 25.80; à la carte from €18 to 22. From 8 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. Closed on Mondays.

> LA BONNE MÈRE Guide Fooding® 2017 - Pizza Jérémy has equipped this local bar with a wood-fired oven, and offers 19 different pizzas that are among the best in France. Using organic flour and assembled like wine grape varieties, they are set aside for 24 hours before being hand-kneaded. In the dining room, Maheva gives out lollipops to the children and greets customers with a kiss. 16, rue Fort du Sanctuaire, 6th arr. 04 91 58 22 05. A la carte from €15 to 20. Closed on Sunday and Monday.

> PAPA POULE On 27 June 2016 Yann and Sigolène Moulin opened this restaurant with a rural spirit, entirely dedicated to poultry: farmhouse chickens from Aubagne, duck, guinea fowl, quail, wood pigeon, eggs and even rabbit. Every day, one French and one globetrotter dish are there to delight diners. And today? It's coq au vin... 68, rue Breteuil 6th arr. 04 91 58 22 05. Lunch set menus €10,13,50, 15 and 18.50.

> LA MAISON VAUBAN Victor Parodi has transformed an ordinary local bar into a living space where you can drink a coffee at the counter or play French boules in the back garden. Two main dishes, two desserts on the menu, but great care and rustic produce are guaranteed. Charlène in the kitchen goes out of her way to make dishes just as good as at home. In the evening, charcuterie, cheeses and a DJ set the tone. 109, bd Vauban 6th arr. 06 76 49 45 19. 18 Closed on Saturday lunchtimes and on Sunday. Lunch, €20. 19 > LE PETIT NICE 3 stars in the MICHELIN® guide - Bouillabaisse This institution is celebrating its 100th anniversary in 2017. Gérald Passédat has succumbed to the siren song and has plunged into the depths with his FROM THE PHARO customers. He composes his menus in stages, in search of the ultimate meal. Supreme mastery, precision and a highly personal cuisine. Fish taken to new heights. Sublime desserts TO THE PRADO . Anse de Maldormé, corniche J.-F. Kennedy, 7th arr. 04 91 592 592. Closed on Sunday and Monday. Lunch menu €100. Bouillabaisse, €200. Set menus €200, 250, 370.

BATHING PARK ® guide > L’EPUISETTE 1 star in the MICHELIN - Bouillabaisse Guillaume Sourrieu is a native of Savoie who fell in love with the Mediterranean. Whether for the "land" version (Challans duckling with potatoes and citron, crispy polenta and coffee-flavoured sauce) or the "sea" version (blue lobster tajine with spices and tender vegetables, pincers in remoulade) his refined, sunshine-filled dishes are a delight. 158, rue du Vallon des Auffes, 7th arr. 04 91 52 17 82. Closed on Sunday and Monday. Lunch menu: €70; Set menus €95, 125. A la carte: €110. Bouillabaisse 5 times a day: €95.

> CHEZ FONFON Bouillabaisse > LES TROIS FORTS Alphonse Mounier, yesterday, Roger Alexandre today and still the same magnificent and opulent bouillabaisse, grilled fish and delicious bourride. Dominique Frérard, qualified as a Maître Cuisinier de France, has a challenge: With a breathtaking view over the Vallon des Auffes, here the taste for to make dishes that are good enough to distract diners from the sublime heritage has pride of place. Delicious and memorable. view over the Old Port. A exploit achieved each time thanks to fresh and th resolutely local ingredients. The mastery of the chef and his team also count 140, Vallon des Auffes, 7 arr. 04 91 52 14 38. for a great deal. Open 7 days a week. Bouillabaisse: €53, bourride: €50. A la carte: €60. Sofitel Marseille-Vieux-Port, 36, bd Charles-Livon, 7th arr. 04 91 15 59 56. Closed on Sunday and Monday. > CHEZ JEANNOT Bouillabaisse Lunch menus: €50 and 95. Evening: €75 and 95. A la carte: €75. Alexandre and Peggy Pinna defend tradition, Sixties style. The pizza (with large anchovies from Cantabria), the Bellino (rolled beef with boletus mushrooms and foie gras) and Laurent's desserts explain the renewed > LE ROWING CLUB enthusiasm for Chez Jeannot in Marseille. Gilbert Bitton and Christian Ernst joyfully bring this young, relaxed restaurant 29, vallon des Auffes 7th arr. 04 91 52 11 28. Pizzas from €13 to €18. to life, one in the dining room and the other in the kitchen. Technical skill and Main course from €15 to 22. Desserts, €7. attractive dishes: fish soup, roast saddle of lamb with cured lamb-crunchy vegetables and bread with Brousse du Rove. > PÉRON Bouillabaisse 34, bd Charles-Livon, 7th arr. 04 91 900 778. Open 7 days a week. Set lunch menus €25-30. A la carte: €55. Like an Art Déco ocean liner anchored to the white rock, this restaurant Sunday brunch €29. provides braised scorpion fish in veal sauce-fennel gnocchi with marrow, spinach and mushroom, sophisticated style. Plus a not-to-be-missed creamy Peruvian dark chocolate tart with spices and chili and bay laurel sauce. > CHEZ MICHEL - BRASSERIE DES CATALANS 56, Corniche J.-F. Kennedy, 7th arr. 04 91 521 522. Bouillabaisse Lunch menu, €55. Open 7 days a week. Bouillabaisse: €55/80. Set menus Here, bouillabaisse, bourride and grilled fish have been raised to the level of €69 and 82. A la carte €80. a religion. The same gestures, unchanged for decades, each day bring to life a rust-coloured magic where the regional white wines (Cassis) come into > MARCO - PLAGE DU PROPHÈTE their own. The Castel and the Trianon round off the meal on a sweet note. th With your feet in the sand and a view of the sea, you can enjoy the antipasti, 6, rue des Catalans (opposite the beach), 7 arr. 04 91 52 30 63. a milanesa, spaghetti with clams and a burrata pugliese. As soon as he arrives Open 7 days a week. Cheques not accepted. Bouillabaisse or bourride: in the summer, Marco adds new pizzas to share with a Spritz as an aperitif. €75. An original site, with affogato for dessert. A unique restaurant beside the A la carte from €64 to 86. waves, and magical in the sunset. Anse des Prophètes, corniche Kennedy, 7th arr. 04 91 77 66 89. Closed on Mondays and open 7 days a week in summer. A la carte €30 > L’EAU À LA BOUCHE Pizza In 12 years, Rodolphe has transformed this tiny fisherman's house into a temple of pizza with ultra-fine crusts and unexpected recipes. Locals come > LE RHUL Bouillabaisse here after a trip to the beach or just before watching the match on TV with Enjoying a drink as the sun sets, you feel lucky to be looking out over the friends. Angelina, Morales, Olga and the sobrassada have a great future in sea in this family restaurant where the bouillabaisse has been raised to the front of them. status of a religion. Rack of lamb, lobster and Norwegian omelette also 120, corniche Kennedy, 7th arr. 04 91 52 16 16. feature on the menu. Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. A la carte €20-25 per person; 269, corniche Kennedy, 7th arr. 04 91 52 01 77/54 54. Credit cards and restaurant tickets not accepted. Open 7 days a week. A la carte €65. Bouillabaisse (for 2 minimum) €55 20 or 68 per person; bourride (for 2 minimum) €60. Cheques not accepted. 21 > LE GRAND BAR DES GOUDES Bouillabaisse Didier and Christophe, two friends who prone the fraternal spirit of this FROM THE PRADO little port baked by the sun. Octopus salad, spaghetti in fish soup, fish tart and duck breast fillet with honey and rosemary sauce bring the appetite to life. A seaside-cabin atmosphere, with a change of scenery guaranteed. 29, ave Désirée-Pelaprat, 8th arr. 04 91 73 43 69. Closed on BATHING PARK Wednesdays. Bourride menus €42 and 65; bouillabaisse (€60/pers.). A la carte €50

TO LES GOUDES > LA MARINE DES GOUDES Bouillabaisse Marianne presides heart and soul over this waterside restaurant-cabin. Cuttlefish, fish fry and fresh fish are at their finest in a simple but authentic menu. Bouillabaisse and fish soup can be savoured in the evening, at sunset in an unmatched dolce vita style. 16, rue Désirée-Pellaprat, Marseille 8th arr. 04 91 25 28 76. Menu €35; à la carte about €45. Bouillabaisse to order 48 hours beforehand, €40 per person.

> CHEZ ALDO Bouillabaisse 1964-2017, all the smart set of Marseille has eaten here at least once. > LE SPORT BEACH Bouillabaisse, wood-fired pizza, aioli or lobster - all the Marseille repertoire on offer! At lunchtime, take your sunglasses, and in the evening, admire the On the deck chairs, parents and friends enjoy a drink before dinner. A disciple bay lit up by the sunset, while enjoying a fish fry and a drink... of Escoffier, Michel Delbrel makes a local fish soup, king prawns in aniseed 28, rue Audemar-Tibido, 8th arr. 04 91 73 31 55. Closed on Sunday and crystallised lemon, and a grilled duck breast fillet with caramelised evening and Mondays. Pizzas from €12 to €16. A la carte €40-45. pineapple. Try the brunch here on Sundays. Bouillabaisse/borride made to order: €48. 138, avenue Pierre-Mendès-France, 8th arr. 04 28 31 24 56. Open 7 days a week. A la carte €45. Brunch €29. > L’AUBERGE DU CORSAIRE, CHEZ PAUL The dining tables stretch out from the terrace to the port. A dream spot > LES TAMARIS Bouillabaisse to enjoy freshly caught fish, lobster pasta, fried cuttlefish, octopus salad and Fans of outdoor cafés overlooking a little beach at the gates of the Calanques, giant profiteroles. Pizza fans will enjoy them with a nice and cool Côtes de here you'll find a warm welcome. Between dips in the sea, you can enjoy Provence rosé. 100 % holiday spirit. scampi or squid persillade, an octopus stew and spaghetti, skewered lamb 35, ave Désiré-Pelaprat, 8th arr. 04 91 73 19 26. ratatouille. And in the evening, it's pizza time! th Closed on Mondays and Tuesday evenings in winter. Open 7 days a week 40, bd Calanque de Samena, 8 arr. 06 41 60 57 94. Open 7 days in July and August. A la carte (depending on season) €40. Credit cards a week. Bouillabaisse (for 2 minimum) €45 per person; pizzas from €14 not accepted. to 18; A la carte: €45/50. > AU BORD DE L’EAU Between the arbour and the waves, there is - the beach. With your skin > LA GROTTE imbued with monoi oil and tiaré flower, you might hesitate between the In the distance, at the end of a road winding towards Callelongue, this pizzas, the milanesa and the cod gratin with garlic directly from the pizza fishingcabin decorated in Napoleon III style now stands beside a brasserie. oven. Crottin de Chavignol cheese in oil, faisselle and iced nougat round The fish soup, tasty pizzas, tuna tartare, fried scallops and profiteroles are off the feast. universally applauded. 15, rue des Arapèdes, 8th arr. 04 91 72 68 04. Reservation 1, avenue des Pebrons, 8th arr. 04 91 73 17 79. recommended on 04 91 72 68 04. Pizzas from €13 to €16. A la carte Open 7 days a week. Pizzas from €11 to €14. A la carte €50 €45-50.

> TIBOULEN DE MAÏRE Also in the Calanques... Here you'll find fresh fish, caught the very same morning. A fish SORMIOU: two restaurants with a sublime view over the turquoise soup or stuffed mussels as a starter and, a choice of grilled monkfish, sea bass, waters. Provençal and Mediterranean cuisine. sea bream and red mullet. A brousse du Rove cheese, a chocolate LE CHÂTEAU, 04 91 25 08 69 (around €40). mousse or a sorbet to round off the meal. Rustic cuisine. LE LUNCH, 04 91 25 05 37 (around €50). Credit cards not accepted. Calanque-blanche, route des Goudes, 8th arr. 04 91 25 26 30. Reservation required for access by car. Fee for car park. Closed on Sunday evening and on Wednesdays. Closed on Sunday evening in summer. From €50. Please note: Credit cards and cheques not accepted. MORGIOU: proud Marseille cuisine. LE NAUTIC BAR, reservation required, regulated access; 04 91 40 06 37. About €35. Credit cards not accepted.

MARSEILLEVEYRE: park your car in Callelongue and then walk for 45 minutes to get to Chez le Belge. No water, gas or electricity. "Guinguette" 22 dancing. No reservations or credit cards. 23 NEAR THE ORANGE VÉLODROME

> TABI NO YUME Like on a dream trip, the chef Ippei Uemura brings us sushi and leads us along authentic pathways where taste competes with aesthetics. Yubiki Maguro Tsukimidare (poached egg on a mi-cuit of tuna with tsukimidare sauce) and Kushikatsu (skewered breaded pork in caramel sauce) are a great choice. 1, bd Sainte-Anne, 8th arr. 04 91 22 09 33. Closed on Sunday and Monday. Set menus €24 – 26.50 - 27.50 – 30 - 31 and 33. A la carte €38-40.

> LA VILLA There are few parks in the city. This one attracts all "the 8th arrondissement's finest", who like to spot each other sitting at the other tables. Thierry Albert and Jean-Louis Vignoli have entrusted the menu to Patrick Cartier, a surprisingly consistent chef. Sushi, pizzas, meat, grilled or steamed fish, shellfish… This is classic, well-made food. 113, rue Jean-Mermoz, 8tharr. 04 91 71 21 11. Open 7 days a week. A la carte €50.

> LE MONTICELLI Pizza Although discreet, this restaurant still attracts fans of pizza who love the speciality tomato sauce. You can also enjoy Italian sausage with a green salad or beef. Don't forget the white wine from Cassis (Fontcreuse) to go with the cuttlefish. Nice tiramisu. Le Monticelli, 34, bd Emile-Sicard, 8th arr. 04 91 29 39 60. Closed on Sundays. A la carte €25 to 45.

> AM - ALEXANDRE MAZZIA 1 star in the MICHELIN® guide, Bouillabaisse Guide Fooding® 2017 This is more a culinary experience than a restaurant: Alexandre Mazzia gives us his vision of today's cuisine. The dishes are often cerebral, sometimes take you by surprise, and reflect the energetic, unpredictable but always creative nature of the chef. Spirited, aesthetic and stratospheric. 9, rue François-Rocca, 8th arr. 04 91 24 83 63. Closed on Sunday and Monday. Lunch €35 and 52 Dinner €89 and 110.

> OTTO Bib gourmand Michelin 2017 - Guide Fooding® 2017 Pierre-Antoine Denis dreamed of a small, cosy restaurant. Always in search of the best breeders, cheese refiners and winemakers, he serves seafood pasta di Gragnano, veal scalloppine with tagliatelle, aubergine caponata. And above all, the miraculous fior di latte ice cream and the delicious lemon sorbet... Otto 150, rue Jean-Mermoz, 8th arr. 04 91 71 16 52. A la carte €26 to 30. Closed on Sundays. A la carte €35-40. 24 25 NEAR CASTELLANE

> SAISONS Major talent! Guillaume Bonneaud and Julien Diaz provide a taste of the Mediterranean and all the aromas of the Corsican countryside. A practised gesture, a skilled hand, perfectly dosed and balanced. Diaz has his own style, his own way of doing things, of seeing and conceiving his cooking, he tells a story and we listen. A piece of music. 8, rue Sainte-Victoire, 6th arr. 09 51 89 18 38. Lunch set menu: €29. Menus: 55 and 85 euros. Closed on Saturday, Sunday and Monday evening.

> LE RELAIS CORSE Laurent Saturnini insists on his selected ingredients from the outset: hot dog with porcu neru, cuttlefish persillade, cannelloni with brousse and mint, cheese (u Rustinu) and charcuterie. Lili's fiadone cheesecake is a star for all the Corsicans who come here. Cuisine and wine (Fiumicicoli) filled with integrity. 49, avenue du Prado, 6th arr. 09 50 72 99 53. Closed on Sunday lunchtime. A la carte from €20 to 34; wood plate dish €16.

> L’OSTERIA DU PRADO Pizza Come here on an evening when Marseille are playing, and you'll understand. The wood-fired oven produces fine pizzas to go with the antipasti to share with your friends. Give the stuffed squid a try, as well as the boconcini and the clam linguine. Extra marks for the relaxed, efficient and friendly service. 84, avenue du Prado, 6th arr. 04 91 92 98 64. Closed on Sunday and Monday. Pizzas from €12 to €16. A la carte €35.

26 27 > LE CAFÉ POPULAIRE From the entrance, the visitor goes through the kitchen, passes the counter and enters a vast room where everyone knows each other. Nicolas Julien is in his element in this restaurant where Mediterranean produce is king. Main courses, tapas - everyone will find what they're looking for. RUE PARADIS 110, rue Paradis, 6th arr. 04 91 02 53 96. PALAIS DE JUSTICE Closed on Saturday lunchtimes and on Sundays, à la carte €30. > LE CAFÉ DE LA BANQUE A brasserie - and what a brasserie! Arnaud Lafargue and his team hold sway in one of the most popular restaurants, where magistrates, bankers, solicitors, legal advisers and lawyers are regulars. Tartares, burgers, Caesar salad, pasta… Classic dishes, while the strawberry, raspberry or chocolate charlotte is ideal with an espresso. 24, bd Paul-Peytral, 6th arr. 04 91 33 35 07. Closed on Sundays. Lunch from €20 to €35.

> LE GRAND GUSTE A dining room, a winter or summer garden and atypical decoration > LE LAURACÉE (Boboboom lampshades) make this one of the musts of the moment. Jean- Christophe Négrel has become the star of traditional Brittany cuisine: pork Chri Codaccioni and Yves Cluchier entertain diners as friends and serve a cheek casserole stew-season's vegetables, duck foie gras from Landes or reassuring cuisine with traditional casserole dishes, and man the grill that royal hare with noodles in cream and Brittany butter. Beautiful gravies, sauces wafts aromas all the way to the street. The clientele is from the gilded youth and reductions. Home-made desserts. of the 6, 7 and 8th arrondissements. 96, rue Grignan, 1st arr. 04 91 33 63 36. Le Grand Guste, 31, bd Notre-Damel, 6th arr. 04 91 53 17 82. Closed on Saturday lunchtimes, Sundays. Closed on Sunday, Monday evening, Tuesday evening and Wednesday Lunch set menus €19 and 23; menus €36, 54 and 69. A la carte: €60. evening. Lunch menus €18 and 22. A la carte €40-45. > LE POISSON ROUGE The slate menu is locavore and seasonal. It brings together 4 or 5 ideas > BLONDE ET BRUNE inspired by the day's produce: Thai mussels, mango-black sausage, 8-hour lamb, grapes-almonds, lemon curd and raspberry. In the evening, a tapas Emilie and Emilie have a hit with their cuttlefish persillade, the mi-cuit red atmosphere, wood plate dishes and well-made specialities. tuna with sauce vierge and Thai salad with marinated beef. In hot weather, th the quiet terrace attracts large numbers of white-collar professionals in 47, rue Edouard-Delanglade, 6 arr. 04 91 54 36 07. Lunch set menu search of cooler temperatures. A nice reputation for this urban restaurant. €16. In the evening, world tapas, around €20-25. Closed on Sundays. 81, rue Breteuil, 6th arr. 0 4 91 42 94 41. Closed Saturday lunchtime, from Monday to Wednesday evening and > LE MALTHAZAR Bib Gourmand in the MICHELIN® guide2017 on Sundays. Vincent Poette is a master of the classics of traditional French cuisine, along Lunch set menu €19, à la carte €25-30. Evening, à la carte €30. with a few nods towards fusion food: fried pork belly, Asian coco de Paimpol bean cassoulet (soya, ginger, lemongrass), mushroom bruschetta, Serrano shavings, parsley vinaigrette. The menu follows the inspiration of the day. > TREIZE EN VUE 19, rue Fortia, 1st arr. 04 91 33 42 46. Philippe Poette is a member of the Collège Culinaire de France, a label Open 7 days a week. Lunch set menu: €19, 22, 25 et 26. Evening: menu, to inspire confidence. The market and the seasons influence the dishes: €32. A la carte: €46. swordfish tataki with sesame oil, savora sauce and courgette julienne, Black Angus flank steak with gribiche sauce, apricot vanilla macaroon. The locals love it, and so do we. > L’ESCAPADE MARSEILLAISE 40, rue Breteuil, 6th arr. 04 91 48 21 28 or 06 34 64 47 06. With a background in the Michelin-starred institutions of France, Yannick Closed on Sundays, from Monday to Wednesday evening and Saturday Stein is now at the helm of a vessel that is newly anchored in Rue Paradis. Beef lunchtime. vol-au-vent, potato soup with cumin, stuffed quail with morel mushrooms- Set lunch menus €14.50 and 17.80. Menus €24.50 and 29.50. A la carte €40 royal forest foie gras fricassee… It's youthful, subtle and finally rock’n roll. 134, rue Paradis 6th arr. 04 91 31 61 69. Closed from Monday to Wednesday evening and on Sundays.

28 29 > NOUR D’EGYPTE Oriental - Guide Fooding® 2017 A site promoting the culture of Egypt, with conferences and exhibitions. Calligraphy on the walls, Carocim tiles on the floor, here you can eat sitting down or squatting, with falafels, aubergine caviare, hummus or broad beans while sipping a lemonade. The music of Oum Kalthoum fills the background. FROM THE OLD Total immersion, as if you were in Cairo. 10, rue Bernex, 1st arr. 09 80 63 06 56. Closed on Friday lunchtime PORT and Sunday evening. A la carte €15-20. > LA TABLE CINQ For 7 years the De Lanfranchi-Lamour duo has been in full swing. The savoury note for the first (cod and citrus fruit tart, black rice with white TO PALAIS butter foam) and the sweet for the second (chocolate log, Aurley’s mandarin heart- Dulcey lime ice cream). A local restaurant whose reputation has spread through the city. LONGCHAMP 8, avenue des Chartreux/13, bd de la Blancarde, 4th arr. 04 91 34 85 22. Closed on Sunday and Monday. Lunch menu: €17.50 and 19.50. Set menus: €29, 43, 59. A la carte €44.

> LA BOÎTE À SARDINE Guide Fooding® 2017 This is said to be the most fantabulous place in Marseille. Fabien "Rugi" > CHEZ NOËL Pizza (roars) with pleasure while selecting the finest fish and shellfish. Céline The decor has changed, it's true, it has a younger, more colourful and practical Bonnieu prepares her dishes according to tradition, with sea bass, oysters, look, but the wood-fired oven is still there and the pizzas are still just as richly mussels, razor shells or clams. For everyone with a craving for seafood. garnished. The freshly made pasta is also among the favourite dishes of the 2, bd de la Libération, 1st arr. 04 91 50 95 95. Closed on Sundays, writers, artists and politicians who dine here. Mondays and every evening except Thursday. A la carte €35. 174, La Canebière, 1st arr. (les Réformés) 04 91 42 17 22. Closed on Mondays. 04 91 42 17 22. A la carte €25/30. > LE DÉBOUCHÉ Guide Fooding® 2017 A 10-minute walk from the station, Jean-Claude and Hélène Marcellini tell > CHEZ PICONE Pizza their seasonal tale on the menu slate. On the shelves are some 120 different On La Canebière, a few yards from the Théâtre du Gymnase, this pizza wines, including a Domaine des Grécaux (Hérault) named Terrasses du restaurant can boast all the great classics: aubergines with parmesan, Larzac by Arnaud Sandras. A tartare specially seasoned by the chef and a bocconcini, salads, lasagne, etc. Service before and after the show, and hazelnut semifreddo are the keys to happiness. sincere smiles. A final attraction is the wood-fired oven with a guarantee 3, boulevard National, 1st arr. 04 91 50 96 25. of great cooking. Closed on Saturday evening, Sundays and Monday. A la carte €25-30. 120, La Canebière, 1st arr. 04 91 48 77 05. A la carte €25/30. Closed on Sundays. > L’IDÉAL Guide Fooding® 2017 Guide Fooding® 2017, Pizza This fine food store has all the best produce of the Mediterranean: anchovies, > CHEZ SAUVEUR olive oils, pasta, octopus. To Julia Sammut we owe a fine selection and an A restaurant founded by Sauveur di Paola in 1943, and managed today by outstanding menu of gourmet snacks: top-of-the-range hams, Bordier dairy Fabrice Giacalone. Wonderfully topped pizzas with Italian sausage, grilled products, anchovies. And to wash it all down? Rare wines, with a strong figatelli, Sicilian polpetone - and not forgetting the rocket pappardelle, character that you won't find everywhere. mozzarella di buffala, Parma ham and fresh parmesan. Tasty Sicilian desserts st (canoli, ravioli dolce). 11, rue d’Aubagne, 1 arr. 09 80 39 99 41. Closed on Sunday and Monday. 10, rue d’Aubagne, 1st arr. 04 91 54 33 96. Closed on Sunday and Monday. A la carte €25 to 30. > CHEZ MÉMÉ Old-style secondhand furniture and Boboboom lampshades for this > LE FEMINA-CHEZ KACHETEL Oriental restaurant with a deliberately limited menu combining the best dishes to Here there's been an atmosphere of sunshine and spices since 1921. "From savour as a daring triptych: gnocchi/nika/ nori, borlotti/burratta/mint, pigeon/ father to son and from mother to daughter", the secrets of barley semolina satay/ink and garlic, etc. The juices, sauces and reductions are a guiding thread couscous are passed on. And not forgetting the classic chorba, brik pastry through the meal, a boost to amaze even the most blasé. and skewered lamb. Mustapha takes care of the atmosphere, with friendly Mémé, 84, bd Longchamp, 1st arr. 09 80 39 99 41. service and decor in harmony… Closed on Sundays and Saturday lunchtime. Lunch menus €15 and 17. 1, rue du Musée, 1st arr. 04 91 54 03 56. Evening: €45. Closed on Sunday evening and Mondays. A la carte €25-30. > CHEZ GEORGES - BISTROT DU COIN Guide Fooding® 2017 > SALUMERIA GIUPPO A local bar transformed into a place for gourmets to meet up when in Marco from Venice has redesigned his restaurant with an open kitchen search of Mediterranean sensations with Ilan Loufrani behind the counter. and an attractive menu of prime rib of beef as the guest star. Italian hams, Attractive dishes between bistrot gourmet and tapas style, prepared by provolone aubergines, rigatoni al dente with girolle mushrooms and clams, Michel Marini: a menu featuring organic food, from the wine to the bread, tiramisu with rosemary… The mood and the seasons inspire the menu. from the vegetables to the certified meat. Great terrace. 7, bd de la Libération, 1st arr. 09 70 38 20 78 . Closed on Sundays 115, bd Chave 4th arr. 09 84 30 53 28. Closed on Sunday and Monday. and Mondays; open evenings only. A la carte €28, 35 and 44. Lunch: main course from €12 to 17, and dessert €5 (organic apple juice or hot drink free). Evening, from March to October, tapas from €5 to 8.

30 31 > LE CERCLE ROUGE A discreet restaurant for fans of Corsican fare to which André Maurel gives a contemporary touch: squid compote with figatelli peppers, Jacques Abatucci organic veal, baked egg with brousse pestu. In the winter, in front NEAR of the fireplace, you can savour the fine list of some 45 different spirits (whisky, rum). 41, rue Adolphe-Thiers, 5th arr. 04 91 63 00 53 et 06 76 75 10 84. COURS JULIEN Closed on Mondays; evenings only from 7.30. A la carte €30-35.

> LE MAMA SHELTER LA PLAINE In Paris, Guy Savoy conceived a menu brought to life in Marseille by Nicolas Brenier. Students, friends, families and businessmen love the savoury recipes: gravlax salmon, milanesa, "back from Asia" beef tartare, fried sea bream and Angus steak with house gravy. Relaxed service and great music. 64, rue de la Loubière, 6th arr. 04 84 35 20 00. A la carte from €30 to 40. > LE TIRE-BOUCHON A wine bar made for friends. A great friendly atmosphere to share with an octopus humus-radish and buckwheat, whiting with tartare sauce, panisses chips and Noir de Bigorre pork. Here you can enjoy wine made by winemakers with a heart and soul. 11, cours Julien, 6th arr. 04 13 25 36 78. > LA CANTINETTA Guide Fooding® 2017 Bib Gourmand in the MICHELIN® guide 2017 From 6 p.m. to 2 a.m., closed on Mondays. About €30. Pasta, ravioli, gnocchi and tutti quanti are made here by a chef with a pure Italian accent. Authentic dishes and know-how, carefully selected ingredients > L’ARÔME Bib Gourmand in the MICHELIN® guide2017 - only the presentation on the plates follows the fashions of the time. The guarantee of an authentic and good-humoured meal. A humble restaurant and a noble menu: veal cromesquis in mascarpone- th well-seasoned sauce, mackerel hake ravioli, fish soup, stir fry gnocchi and 24, cours Julien, 6 arr. 04 91 48 10 48. king prawns… And all beautifully executed, finely spiced and wonderfully Closed on Sundays. A la carte €35. presented. Great value for money, generous and friendly service. An absolute favourite. 9, rue des Trois Rois, 6th arr. 04 91 42 88 80. > LE GOÛT DES CHOSES Evening service only. Set menus €22.50 and 28. Olivier Rathery is an unusually consistent chef: he makes food with a few nods to world cooking, using here and there a spice or an ingredient evoking the years he spent in Florida with his wife. Meat sauce, crispy, tender food, striking flavours. His work is accessible and delicious. 4, place Notre-Dame-du-Mont, 6th arr. 04 91 48 70 62. Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Lunch menus: €17 and 22. Set menus €29 and 38. A la carte: €46. Cheques not accepted.

> LE BISTRO DU COURS Frédéric Charlet fills the plates with a master's hand: Mediterranean partridge-grilled cauliflower, kiwi-spinach condiment, Pekin mallard duck and chicken supreme, offal cannelloni and mushroom-spinach, sole meunière… Laurent Biaggi gives tips on the best wines. A brilliant, laughing duo. 13, cours Julien, 6th arr. 04 86 97 59 11. Closed on Sunday and Monday. Lunch set menu: €16.50 and 20. Evening: €32. Chef's suggestions €29-30.

> LACAILLE A restaurant that is making the news thanks to the huge talent of its chef. The hake with Savagnin-fried mushrooms-breadcrumbs with lemon, almonds and sorrel deserve the Légion d’Honneur. Sublime and powerful chocolate sorbet and ganache, a wonderful French wine list. We lack superlatives, an immense new talent. 42, rue des trois Mages, 6th arr. 09 86 33 20 33. Evenings only, closed on Mondays. A la carte €30

32 33 CHICHIS FREGIS (GOOD) NOTES AND RATINGS: ......

L’ESTAQUE ......

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> LE CAM ...... Davide Mijoba has talent, and his imagination already won him a Bib gourmand when he was working in Saint-Victor, at L’Alchimie. Grilled fish, canny combinations inspired by the seasons, with fresh ingredients. The excellence of the regional ingredients and the freshness of the produce. A ...... magical view over the port. Cercle d’Aviron de Marseille, 1, plage de l’Estaque, 16th arr...... 09 83 75 48 66. Closed from Monday to Thursday evening, and on Sundays. Lunchtime menu €25; dinner, €42. A la carte €45-47......

...... > CHICHIS BEIGNET STALLS ...... There are just 3 stalls, and yet they are maintaining a centuries-old tradition. At L’Estaque, you can eat chichis frégis, a beignet shaped like a snail's shell and plunged in oil. Crispy on the outside, tender inside, the chichi frégi can be enjoyed with sugar, filled with Nutella, chocolate or Chantilly cream...... At L’Estaque, the 3 stalls also serve the famous panisses (fried rolls of pastry made from chickpeas) and home-made crisps. A sweet or savoury treat when you come back from the beach...... Chichis from €2.50 to €3.80, panisses from 6 to 12 pieces (from €1.80 to 3.20), crisps (from €2.20 to 6)...... LOU GOUSTADO DE L’ESTACO L’Estaque plage, 16th arr. This booklet is a snapshot taken in January 2017 of the city's culinary KIOSQUE MAGALI landscape; we cannot be held responsible for changes in opening times, L’Estaque plage, 16th arr. 06 21 46 22 78. closing days, menus, prices or means of payment taking place after 17 January 2017. CHEZ FREDDY Photo Credits: Fotolia®, Pierre Psaltis, Karine Aprile, E. Lamy, S.Sergent L’Estaque plage, 16th arr. 07 50 90 54 79.

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