This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected].

MARCH 2014 | OUR 35TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES

IN THE NEWS BACK ROADS FROM AVIGNON TO ANTIBES Spring Spa Debut Pleasures of and the Riviera NOWADAYS, spas have become mandatory at hotels with pretensions to luxury. But the European tradition of spa hotels began in the mid-19th century. The grandest of them all, Brenners Park- Hotel & Spa in Baden Baden, Germany, dates to 1872, when Stéphanie les Bains, an existing hotel, was purchased by Anton Brenner. Spring 2014 will see the debut of the Villa Stéphanie, a new 54,000-square-foot complex intended to set an entirely new standard for hotel spas. Brenners Park has formed a part- nership with the French cosmetics company Sisley. One highlight of the new facility will be its FEW PLACES IN THE WORLD ARE AS RELIABLY CHARMING AND CONSISTENTLY SURPRISING unique hammam. Spa guests will be able to as the south of . Even after dozens of trips, whenever I return to Provence and the relax in a private park and Riviera I never fail to find a new hotel, a previously unknown village, a little restaurant, an a tranquil sunken garden. BRENNERS.COM atmospheric church, several wines to add to my cellar, or maybe a new oil.

What I’ve learned, though, is that the best of the was appreciated by the popes when the papacy was THIS ISSUE south of France is often found off the beaten path. based in Avignon during the 14th century. Today, SOUTH OF FRANCE And this doesn’t mean simply taking quiet country wine writers refer to Tavel as “the year-round rosé” A journey through the roads instead of highways, but tracking down those because it is robust enough to dispel the traditional unspoiled heartland lesser-known places that the locals understandably idea that rosés are only for summer drinking. After of Provence keep to themselves. a tasting at which we ordered some wines to be Arriving in Avignon on my latest trip, for shipped home, we enjoyed an excellent meal at the A fresh look at example, we visited the Musée Angladon, an warm, friendly Auberge de Tavel. This had been France’s second city overlooked gem with several canvases by Degas, recommended by an amiable winemaker with THE ROCKIES Modigliani and Sisley, before heading to the Tavel whom we’d struck up a conversation while having A road trip in western wine region just outside of the city. Tavel is called a coffee in the bar car on the TGV train from Paris. Colorado and Utah the “King of Rosés” because, or so the story goes, it A delicious ragout of baby artichokes was followed

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Aside from its historic charm, the character of the property comes from an imaginative décor that successfully combines contemporary “ furniture with local antiques. BED/DINING ROOM PHOTOS BY CYRIL LETOURNEUR; BATH PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

La Maison d’Uzès

LOCAL CRAFTS by cannelloni stuffed with lamb, guinea hen with that it occurred to me that I could very happily live tapenade, and a superb cheese tray. in Uzès. Back at the hotel, chef Oscar Garcia served an outstanding meal of brandade de morue (salt e then headed to Uzès, 25 miles west of cod with whipped potatoes) with squid’s ink and W Avignon and among the most delightful red peppers, guinea hen stewed in red wine with towns in the Midi. Our destination was the 12-room crayfish, and veal roasted with local black . Maison d’Uzès, which opened last spring in an The hotel’s principal amenity is a small spa in the elegantly restored set of 17th-century stone houses. vaulted cellars. Aside from the friendly service, Since most of the surrounding streets are pedestrian- elegant décor and well-considered comfort, what I only, we left the car at a nearby garage and walked like most about this place is the ideal setting from over to the hotel. There, we were welcomed with which to ponder the beauty of Uzès itself. Ceramics cool hand towels and iced tea, which we sipped in The best way to enjoy the nearby Pont du Gard, JUST FOUR MILES north the small, stylishly appointed salon adjacent to the the famous stone aqueduct that was built in the of Uzès, Saint-Quentin- reception area. The heart of the house — despite first century to supply the city of Nîmes, is to be la-Poterie was one of the centers of ceramics offering hotel amenities and services of a high there when the site opens. So we rose early, and on production in southern standard, it really does feel more like a house — is a quiet morning, we were able to contemplate this France for many centuries. a magnificent Renaissance stone staircase. Aside spectacular structure almost alone. We then headed Today, more than 20 from the historic charm of the honey-colored stone southeast for 25 miles to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. workshops produce walls, huge overhead beams and tomette (terra-cotta It was market day (Wednesday) in this enchanting porcelain, grès (varnished tile) floors, the character of the property comes from little town, and we wandered through bustling and enameled sandstone), an imaginative décor that successfully combines raku (Japanese earthen- stalls selling olive oil and lavender. Then, after a ware) and faïence. The contemporary furniture with local antiques. delicious lunch of salt cod with boiled vegetables, work of local ceramicists Our room was located up a stone stairway on potatoes and aioli at an old favorite, Le Bistrot du is displayed and sold at the third floor. (Those with mobility issues should Paradou, we headed east on a web of back roads to the Terra Viva gallery. inform the management, so that they will be given Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume to visit its superb 14 RUE DE LA FONTAINE. TEL. (33) 4-66-22-48-78. rooms at the back of the hotel, where there is an 14th-century Gothic basilica, dedicated to Mary GALERIE-TERRAVIVA.COM elevator.) Late in the afternoon, sun streamed into Magdalene. The soaring nave is ornamented with

Next door, the small, the high-ceilinged space, which was decorated in the coats of arms of the counts of Provence, and the charming Musée de la soothing tones of ivory and pale yellow. In a sitting interior speaks of an ancient land, one indifferent Poterie Méditerranéenne area, several upholstered armchairs stood in front to the ebb and flow of tourism. documents the history of of a handsome old fireplace. The large bath came local production and also with an oversize claw-foot tub, a separate shower ontinuing our journey, we came to the little exhibits ceramics from all around the Mediterranean and the same powdery-soft old tomettes underfoot. C village of La Celle just outside of . basin. TEL. (33) 4-66-03-65- Before dinner, we went for an aperitif at Terroirs, Here, 15 years ago, Alain Ducasse took over an old- 86. MUSEE-POTERIE-MEDITER- a popular wine bar overlooking the Place aux Herbes. fashioned hotel, Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La RANEE.COM It was while sipping a nice, flinty local white wine Celle, a former 12th-century Benedictine abbey,

2 hideaway report | March 2014 Lyme Bay United Kingdom

e r Netherlands D o v i t o f S t r a

English Channel NORD-PAS-DE-CALAIS Belgium

Baie de la Seine

Golfe de St-malo

HAUTE-NORMANDIE

BASSE-NORMANDIE

PICARDIE Luxembourg Germany BRETAGNE

ILE DE FRANCE

CHAMPAGNE-ARDENNE LORRAINE

PAYS DE LA LOIRE

and transformed it into a relaxed but stylish 10- Chef room auberge. The hotel was once a favorite retreat Benoit Witz ALSACE of President Charles deCEN Gaulle,TRE so I couldn’t resist booking his preferred “LucrèceFr dean Barras,”ce a spacious suite with a beamed ceiling and ancient tile floors spread with Brussels carpets. A framed etching of the general, who liked to seclude himself here to write, made us feel as though he’d just stepped out BOURGOGNE FRANCHE- for a stroll in the large garden. With a comfortable COMTE bed made up with good linens, plus a desk, a pair POITOU-CHARENTES of armchairs in front of the fireplace and a large dressing area, we fell for the room immediately, though its small but serviceable bath needed some Bay of Biscay updating. The inn struck us as an alluring and unselfconscious distillation of everything there is to like about Provence. Switzerland Not surprisingly, since this property is part of the LIMDucasseOUSIN empire, the restaurant proved to be excellent. So, after a drink in the pleasant bar, we dined on the large terrace outside and thoroughly enjoyed the cooking of chef Benoit Witz. Risotto with squid’s ink was followed by John Dory with AUVERGNE fennel and a condiment of preserved lemons. The service was attentive, and the wine list offered a fine selection of local Côtes de Provence.

Though the vineyards of the — the Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La Celle department of Provence where La Celle is located POOL/CHEF PHOTOS BY DAVID BORDES ROOM PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER AQUITAINE — are best known for producing rosé wines, I’ve also enjoyed some excellent whites and reds from local winemakers. The following day, we set out early HOTELS REVIEWED RATING FRANCE 1 La Mirande 96 to do a tasting or two, and to visit the Cistercian 2 La Maison d’Uzès 94 abbey of . Surrounded by lavender RHONE-ALPES 3 Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La Celle 93 fields, the abbey, which was built during the 12th 4 Domaine de la Baume 93 5 Hôtel Belles Rives 94 and 13th centuries, has architecture of strong and 6 InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu 90

moving purity, which inspires an appropriately LANGUEDOC- contemplative mood. After stopping by the Château ROUSSILLON 2 TAVEL de Saint-MartinMIDI PYRENEES in to pick up a couple of PROVENCE-ALPES- ITALY bottles of its excellent 2011 Grande Réserve Cru UZES AVIGNON COTE D'AZUR 1 Classé red — a Cabernet Sauvignon-Grenache-Syrah- NIMES Mourvèdre blend that teams beautifully with a good SAINT-REMY- Gulf DE-PROVENCE of steak — we did a tasting at the elegant Château MONACO Genoa ARLES SAINT-MAXIMIN- de Berne in . We arrived in the charming LA-SAINTE-BAUME hilltop village of in time for lunch at La 4 TOURTOUR NICE Table, the best restaurant in the village, where I 3 6 strongly recommend the foie gras, followed by the TARADEAU 5 CAGNES- Gulf of Lions MARSEILLE LA CELLE SUR-MER Andorra roasted swordfish with cèpes risotto. LE THORONET ANTIBES Just outside of Tourtour, the Domaine de la L igurian Sea Baume is a charming new 15-room hotel surrounded

by the former 100-acre estate of painter Bernard 020 40 MI Buffet. The creation of hotelier Jocelyne Sibuet — 020 40 KM Mediterranean Sea known for Les Fermes de Marie in Megève in the Spain March 2014 | hideaway report 3

CORSE

Strait of B onifacio

Italy coffee. Though the kitchen is better than average, French Alps — the property was inspired by 18th- SHOPPING century aristocratic Provençal interiors. On arrival, this all-inclusive pricing makes it unlikely that anyone I was immediately taken with its atmosphere of Antibes would want to stay for more than a night or two. seclusion and the abundance of venues in which The following morning, after a well-served to relax with a book: the graveled terrace under Glassware breakfast on the terrace, we set off for Cagnes-sur- the plane trees at the front of the hotel; the library THE DISTINCTIVE glass- Mer, 90 minutes away, to visit the Musée Renoir. This ware made by hand at reopened last November after a renovation that deftly with its cushy sofas; and the pool deck, tucked away La Verrerie de Biot (The below a formal garden. Biot Glassworks) is found on enhanced the delicate Belle Epoque atmosphere Done up in chintz, our good-looking room the best tables everywhere of the painter’s stone residence, which is set on a came with a separate sitting area furnished with an in the south of France. It is hillside surrounded by citrus trees. The 14 original immediately recognizable upholstered love seat and armchairs; French doors canvases on display were even more interesting for from the hundreds of tiny opened onto a small balcony with fine views over bubbles trapped between being shown in this intimate personal setting, and the formal gardens; and the bath was fitted with two layers of solid glass. the play of light on the surrounding gardens offered both a claw-foot tub and a shower. After settling Located five miles northwest an intriguing window into Renoir’s inspiration. in, I accepted a standing invitation for a tour, and of Antibes, the glassworks was founded nearly 60 s I can never go to the south of France without was taken to see both the clay tennis court and a years ago. The opportunity waterfall in the forest near the spa cabin. After a to watch the glassblowers Aat least one dip in the Mediterranean, I had massage, I helped myself to the iced tea and pastries at work and also to buy a decided to conclude my journey in Juan-les-Pins, on served on the terrace every afternoon, and then full range of their products the coast south of Antibes. Like the Renoir museum, makes this a fascinating the 43-room Hôtel Belles Rives evokes a quieter, spent an hour reading and listening to the cicadas. stop and an ideal place to Ultimately, this is a very pleasant and peaceful find presents and souvenirs. palmier era on the Riviera. It is housed within an hotel. Its single disadvantage is that rooms are sold CHEMIN DES COMBES, BIOT. old stone villa where F. Scott Fitzgerald lived in as part of a package that includes breakfast, an TEL. (33) 4-93-65-03-00. 1926 while working on “Tender Is the Night,” and aperitif and dinner with wine, mineral water and VERRERIEBIOT.COM its private jetty is one of the more peaceful places to relax on this often-hectic coastline. The young woman at the front desk proved delightful, and we loved our corner room with two balconies that offered superb sea views. The lively décor, including art deco armchairs upholstered in a zebra print, was appropriate to this Jazz Age property, and the well-appointed bath came with a separate tub and shower. Spacious public rooms, including a piano bar, were also decorated with original art deco pieces in a ’20s-inspired theme. Happily settled on the swimming pontoon with a well-earned cocktail, we found ourselves in conversation with an Ohio college president and her husband, and a financier and his wife from New York. “What I love about this place is the history, the Domaine de la Baume, near Tourtour setting, the service and the fact that it’s a comfortable, PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER old-fashioned French hotel without any silly frills like pillow menus,” the college president remarked. I felt no need to disagree with a word. “And the new chef is terrific, too.” So that night, we dined on the seaside terrace of La Passagère restaurant, where chef Yoric Tieche (formerly of Le Meurice in Paris) provided foie gras with cèpes, black sea bass with cockles and fresh herbs, dark chocolate soufflé and an excellent white wine made by the monks at the Abbaye de Lérins on the island of Saint-Honorat near Cannes. Tender was the night, indeed. But then, it so often is in the south of France. H

4 hideaway report | March 2014 Hôtel Belles Rives, Juan-les-Pins

The Hôtel Belles Rives is housed within an old stone villa where F. Scott Fitzgerald lived while working on “ ‘Tender Is the Night,’ and its jetty is one of the more peaceful places to relax on this often-hectic coastline.

HOTELS AT A GLANCE Details of our room at Hôtel Belles Rives PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER La Maison d’Uzès A94 LIKE Warm, peaceful and relaxed atmosphere; excellent restaurant overseen by talented chef Oscar Garcia; pleasant spa. DISLIKE Access to the hotel by car is tricky because of pedestrian areas, and parking is in a local garage. GOOD TO KNOW For a good casual meal and a change from French cuisine, head for Via Curti, an Italian restaurant with a friendly Neapolitan owner and a shaded garden terrace, just a five-minute walk from the hotel. ROOM, $335-$640; SUITE, FROM $680. 18 RUE DU DOCTEUR BLANCHARD, UZES. TEL. (33) 4-66-20-07-00. LAMAISONDUZES.FR

Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La Celle A93 LIKE Gracious hospitality; excellent cooking; setting in a small, peaceful village. DISLIKE Baths are adequate but in need of updating, with showers over tubs. GOOD TO KNOW Just across the street from the hotel, the Café du Midi is a good place for a salad and a glass of wine when all you want is a simple meal. SUPERIOR ROOM, $505; JUNIOR SUITE, $670. 10 PLACE GENERAL DE GAULLE, LA CELLE. TEL. (33) 4-98-05-14-14. ABBAYE-CELLE.COM

Domaine de la Baume A93 LIKE Secluded setting; magnificently landscaped grounds; beautifully decorated accommodations. DISLIKE The menu in the hotel’s dining room is limited, as is the wine list, and room rates are high. GOOD TO KNOW Tourtour is a center of truffle production in season (November-January); nearby is a major pottery-producing town. DELUXE ROOM, FROM $695; SUITE, FROM $885. 2071 ROUTE D’, TOURTOUR. TEL. (33) 4-57-74-74-74. EN.DOMAINE-DELABAUME.COM

Hôtel Belles Rives A94 LIKE Spectacular location at the edge of the Mediterranean; friendly and efficient service; historical associations with F. Scott Fitzgerald. DISLIKE Expensive breakfast; the ridiculous charge for a sun lounger. GOOD TO KNOW You can use the pool, health club and hammam at the Belles Rives’ sister hotel, the nearby Hôtel Juana, free. CLASSIC SEAVIEW ROOM, $880; DELUXE SEAVIEW ROOM, $1,245. 33 BOULEVARD EDOUARD BAUDOIN, JUAN-LES-PINS. TEL. (33) 4-93-61-02-79. BELLESRIVES.COM

preceding a rating, denotes a recommended hotel. Visit Andrew Harper.com for more information about all of my favorite A hotels in France.

March 2014 | hideaway report 5 RETURN TO A VAUCLUSE CLASSIC A Civilized Oasis in the Heart of Avignon

HIDDEN ON A TRANQUIL SIDE STREET BEHIND the Palace of the Popes, La Mirande (A96) is one of the most reliably enchanting hotels in the world and a place to which I return again and again with a renewed expectation of pleasure. The 27-room property occupies a biscuit-colored stone building that was once owned by the Emperor Napoleon III’s doctor. Its historic pedigree is also derived from a stately 17th-century façade and a magnificent 14th-century dining room. Aside from its peaceful location, the attributes of the hotel that I particularly appreciate are the consistently gracious service, the fine restaurant and the La Mirande, Avignon profound sense of place. The rooms are decorated in a traditional Provençal style, with China trade prints or toile de New Restaurants in the South of France Jouy fabrics on the walls, antique furniture, and painted wooden bed frames and side tables. Sisal NOT SURPRISINGLY, THE SOUTH OF FRANCE attracts many of the best young chefs in the country when they decide to open their own restaurants. The excellent local rugs cover the polished parquet or terra-cotta floors. produce and wines, the pleasant climate and an affluent clientele of both locals and visi- One of the great delights of the place is listening tors all contribute to the allure. Here are some of the new places we enjoyed most. to church bells through open windows at night and then waking to the sound of birdsong from the lovely L’Armoise Chef Laurent Parrinello cooked at La Chèvre d’Or in Eze and the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc garden, planted with lavender and rosebushes. (The before setting up shop with this small and charming bistro in the Old Town of Antibes. best views of the garden are from the new Deluxe The Mediterranean cuisine that emerges from his open kitchen has made it a local Rooms in the recently completed addition to the favorite. Expect dishes such as arugula risotto, and half-salted cod steak with grilled baby hotel.) Baths come with high-quality replicas of onions and chorizo. And don’t miss the local goat cheese. 2 RUE DE LA TORRAQUE, ANTIBES. 19th-century fixtures, and most have soaking tubs TEL. (33) 4-92-94-96-13. as well as showers. La Table 2 Julien In addition to enjoying chef Jean-Claude Just a few miles outside of Uzès, chef Julien Lavandet and his partner Jennifer Henriksen Aubertin’s excellent cooking in the formal dining have created a delightful and deservedly popular restaurant with excellent market-driven Provençal cooking. The menu changes regularly, but dishes such as herb-garnished red room — don’t miss his roasted Provençal lamb with tuna and shrimp tartare, and yellow pollock with Swiss chard, artichokes and spinach vegetable terrine, since it’s not only delicious but a show off his style. Several large terraces provide venues for fine-weather dining. 12 ROUTE fine excuse (as though one were needed) to order D’UZES, MONTAREN-ET-SAINT-MEDIERS. TEL. (33) 4-66-03-75-38. a good bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape — I always relish a table d’hôte dinner served in the old kitchen. Jan South African-born chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen’s casually elegant new restau- I recommend this convivial meal, since the setting is rant has become a hit in Nice because of his precise and original cooking. The menu follows beautiful and the occasion offers a good opportunity the seasons, but dishes such as grilled scallops with cauliflower velouté, and a beignet to chat with other hotel guests, most of whom are of smoked haddock and guinea hen with raisin-garnished pumpkin purée and pancetta worldly and well-traveled. panna cotta are representative. The service is excellent. 12 RUE LASCARIS, NICE. TEL. (33) 4-97- The hotel also offers excellent hands-on cooking 19-32-23. RESTAURANTJAN.COM lessons. Chefs lead guests to the local market, help Le 46 them to select the best ingredients and then, back This friendly and casual bar à vin near the Palace of the Popes in Avignon is an excellent at the hotel, to cook a Provençal meal. La Mirande address for lunch or a light dinner. Owners Nicolas Martin and Véronique Bonnemer know may lack a pool and a spa, but I am invariably content their wines and serve a good selection by the glass. I especially recommend their take on shrimp tempura, and the lamb chops with pea purée. 46 RUE DE LA BALANCE, AVIGNON. TEL. with a glass of rosé in the fragrant garden at the end (33) 4-90-85-24-83. LE46AVIGNON.COM of a warm summer afternoon. H

6 hideaway report | March 2014 A GRITTY PORT REINVENTED The Growing Sophistication of Marseille

AFTER MANY YEARS, I’VE HAD A SERIOUS image and finding its place in the sun as a vibrant and change of heart about Marseille, France’s exciting city. Last year, it was a European Capital of Culture, and not only did downtown areas get major second city. It’s one of those places people overhauls, but several outstanding museums opened, either love or hate, with detractors out- along with a fine hotel and many new restaurants. numbering admirers, so I’ve long refrained True, you still won’t mistake Marseille for Saint- from offering a judgment. Germain-des-Prés — it remains a big, busy port with an ethnic stewpot of a population — but the locals Built in a natural amphitheater around one of are friendlier than they may seem at first, and the the world’s great ports, it has a fascinating history, city now warrants two or three days of exploration Marseille is some superb architecture and fine museums. On the by more adventurous travelers. And at long last, it finally shedding its rough-and-tumble other hand, it lacks the finesse that is often associated has a better-than-average hotel, the newly opened “ image and finding with urban life in France, and for many years, its InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu , its place in the sun reputation has been tarnished by associations with which occupies a restored 18th-century former as a vibrant and the Mafia and the drug trade, famously dramatized hospital building. exciting city. in the film “The French Connection.” Now, though, Although not everything about this 194-room Marseille is finally shedding its rough-and-tumble property is perfect — it doesn’t have an outdoor pool, and the somber color schemes of the contemporary The view from our private terrace décors can seem less than inspiring — I loved at InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER spending time on my private balcony staring out at the harbor and the neo-Byzantine church of Notre- Dame de la Garde on a distant hillside overlooking the city. The service is prompt; the rooms are comfortable; and the two restaurants by talented chef Lionel Levy are excellent. Les Fenêtres is a traditional brasserie serving Mediterranean dishes, and Alcyone offers “contemporary and creative” cuisine against a striking backdrop of the Vieux-Port, where the Greeks founded the city in 600 B.C. The lively Capian bar provides an agreeable venue for a digestif, and when the weather’s good, drinks are served outside on a spectacular stone-paved terrace. A Clarins spa features an indoor pool, a hammam, saunas and six treatment rooms. This hotel also offers a convenient location and on-site parking, which is a huge help to anyone touring Provence by car. Before now, I’ve struggled to find a satisfactory base in Marseille. I’ve tried the historic Grand Hotel Beauvau overlooking the Vieux-Port because it is pleasantly old-fashioned and offers great views, a HOTELS AT A GLANCE convenient location and a long and illustrious past InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu A90 (many writers and artists have stayed here). It is LIKE Spectacular views over Marseille (reserve a room with a view), private terraces and the excellent restaurant, Alcyone. DISLIKE No outdoor swimming pool; monochromatic modern room décors. GOOD not a luxury hotel, however, and neither is the city’s TO KNOW Just a short walk from the hotel, Compagnie de Provence (1 rue Caisserie) is a great place to shop for traditionally made savon (soap) de Marseille and bath products, which make ideal gifts and single Relais & Châteaux property, Le Petit Nice, souvenirs. The fig-leaf- and olive-and-lavender-scented products are a great way to bring Provence which is run by Gérald Passédat, Marseille’s only back home. DELUXE KING HARBOR VIEW, $470; JUNIOR SUITE HARBOR VIEW TERRACE, $980. 1 PLACE DAVIEL, MARSEILLE. TEL. (33) 4-13-42-42-42. IHG.COM three-star chef. I also find it overpriced, stuffy and A preceding a rating, denotes a recommended hotel. Visit Andrew Harper.com for more information about inconveniently located. During the summer, I’ve all of my favorite hotels in France. also given my patronage to the Sofitel Marseille

March 2014 | hideaway report 7 Vieux Port, which has a commanding location, a good restaurant and an outdoor swimming pool. But it’s not within easy walking distance of the sights you’ll most likely want to see, so, in the end, the InterContinental really is the best bet, with the important caveat that you book a room (Executive Room or Junior Suite) with a harbor view and private terrace. In addition to taking an excursion by boat to view the calanques, the dramatic white cliffs and fjord-like coves just west of the city, a visitor to Marseille should be sure to see the impressively renovated Musée d’Histoire de Marseille and the new MuCEM, a spectacular museum of Mediterranean Skybridge to the new museum complex civilizations that opened last summer at the entrance PHOTO BY AGNES MELLON to the Old Port (see box). Marseille has dozens of other great little museums, though, and a special CULTURE favorite of mine is the time-capsule-like Musée Mediterranean Civilizations Museum Grobet-Labadié, which occupies the 19th-century mansion of the wealthy merchant Louis Grobet and LOCATED AT THE ENTRANCE to Marseille’s Old Port, the ponderously named Musée displays the collection of medieval, Renaissance and des Civilisations de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée (MuCEM) is the boldest architectural 19th-century art that his widow donated to the city. innovation in Marseille since the sloping glass skyscraper by London-based Zaha Hadid — a new headquarters for shipping company CMA CGM — arose on the waterfront in 2010. What is really charming about this place, however, The museum was designed by French architect Rudy Ricciotti, and it joins the historic is that it serves as a sort of living bookmark to the Fort Saint-Jean to two elegant modern pavilions in a complex that was the focal point of tastes and lifestyle of the Marseille bourgeoisie Marseille’s year as European Capital of Culture in 2013. The mission of the museum is to during the 19th century, when the city was booming examine the art and cultural interactions of the countries around the Mediterranean, and somewhat surprisingly — the subject is complex, to say the least — it does so success- after the opening of the Suez Canal and trade was fully, with a fascinating set of permanent exhibits and regularly changing displays. The expanding with France’s burgeoning colonial empire. showstopper, however, is the main building itself: a glass structure sheathed in a lace- The magnificent 19th-century Palais Longchamp also like concrete envelope that creates a remarkable play of shadow and light in the interior houses first-rate exhibitions and is worth visiting for spaces. 1 ESPLANADE DU J4. TEL. (33) 4-84-35-13-13. MUCEM.ORG The museum is hugely popular, so avoid long lines by going early in the day. Plan on its flamboyant architecture alone. Its collection of lunch at chef Gérald Passédat’s crow’s nest restaurant, Le Môle Passédat (La Table). paintings includes works by David, Courbet, Corot There, you will enjoy very good modern Mediterranean cooking, with dishes such as and Millet. And the surrounding park is listed by the dressed crab with harissa (the North African hot sauce), and sea bass with sautéed French Ministry of Culture as one of the Remarkable fennel. RESERVATIONS BY INTERNET ONLY: RESERVATION.LEMOLE-PASSEDAT.COM Gardens of France. H

GASTRONOMY La Boîte à L’Epuisette Le Grain de Sel Sardine For excellent southern Many of the best new tables Best of the Bistros For a terrific catch-of- French cooking, don’t miss are simple little places, a the-day menu in this this Marseille institution, reflection of the Marseillais MARSEILLE IS IN THE MIDST of a restaurant boom. seafood-loving city, try this perched on rock at the dislike of formality and Formerly, the city had a reputation for good pizza (go casual and authentic place. entrance to the old port pretension, and one of to Chez Vincent, 25 RUE GLANDEVES, TEL. [33] 4-91-33-96- Aside from superb fish from of Vallon des Auffes. Chef my favorites is Le Grain 78) and bouillabaisse (the best is at Restaurant Chez boats operating out of the Guillaume Sourrieu makes a de Sel, located on a side Michel, 6 RUE DES CATALANS, TEL. [33] 4-91-52-30-63), but port, it offers a spectacular superb fish soup, along with street near the Vieux-Port there is now an excellent selection of small bistros. setting overlooking the more elaborate dishes such and perfect for lunch. The Mediterranean from a as sea bass in caviar butter, chalkboard menu changes craggy promontory. John Dory with Swiss regularly, but runs to dishes 7 BOULEVARD DE LA chard, gnocchi and black such as green gazpacho Pasta with shellfish LIBERATION. TEL. (33) olive sauce, and chocolate with baby clams, and roast at Le Grain de Sel 4-91-50-95-95. soufflé with black-pepper veal with polenta and LABOITEASARDINE.COM ice cream. VALLON DES anchovies.

PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER AUFFES. TEL. (33) 4-91-52-17-82. 39 RUE DE LA PAIX-MARCEL-  L-EPUISETTE.FR PAUL. TEL. (33) 4-91-54-47-30.

8 hideaway report | March 2014 TOURING WESTERN COLORADO AND EASTERN UTAH A Drive Through the Splendor of the Rockies

CLASSIC UPDATE

Mountain Refuge

LOCATED AT THE END of

View from Telluride’s Town Park a remote box canyon and PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER surrounded by 13,000- foot peaks, Colorado’s HAVING TAKEN SEVERAL RECENT TRIPS TO CENTRAL COLORADO, I DECIDED ON THIS Smith Fork Ranch (A97) is almost the definition of occasion to head farther west and to explore some famous national parks that I hadn’t visited a Rocky Mountain hide- in years. Our itinerary formed a rough ellipse, from the airport at Grand Junction to near the away. The nearest town, Crawford, seems to exist border of New Mexico and back north through eastern Utah. This route took us through in a time warp. The ranch an extraordinary variety of stirring landscapes, from red rock mesas to snowcapped peaks. was first homesteaded in the 1880s, though the e began our journey by driving through the same company that runs Little Palm Island and surviving buildings are Colorado National Monument before the WaterColor Inn. I hoped Gateway would be mostly of a later date. W This once-dilapidated connecting to state Highway 141, part of the the equal of these fine resorts, and in many ways, I enclave has been lovingly Unaweep-Tabeguache Scenic and Historic Byway. found the property very appealing. Memorable views restored, and decorated This well-maintained road becomes increasingly extend in every direction, though inexplicably few with a refined sensibility. dramatic as it winds southwest along a gorge bounded of the accommodations orient themselves toward Accommodations consist by ever-taller canyon walls, ridges and mesas. In the the Palisade. We happily explored some of the of three separate cabins and two guesthouses. middle of this splendor, towered over by the immense hiking trails behind the property with an Adventure The River House lodgings sandstone Palisade, stands the recently renovated Center staff member infectiously passionate about are particularly desirable. Dinners are occasions Gateway Canyons Resort. Since ado2011, R. this 60- his work, and later took a trail ride with a rodeo olor room property has been managedC by Noble House, barrel rider who led us through sweeping meadows of serious gastronomic intent and feature local and picturesque stands of cottonwood and aspen. lamb, beef, venison

COLORADO But our stay, alas, was not free of problems. Most and trout. Most days GRAND BLACK CANYON OF NATIONAL JUNCTION THE GUNNISON ARCHES MONUMENT annoying, the trail ride required four conversations are spent in the saddle. NATIONAL NATIONAL PARK PARK Alternatively, guides Gunnison R. to arrange: the concierge, the front desk, the CRAWFORD MOAB escort hikers through the UNCOMPAHGRE Adventure Center and finally the stables. At a resort NATIONAL majestic Black Canyon FOREST CANYONLANDS charging between $500 and $1,600 per night (not of the Gunnison National NATIONAL PARK COLORADO D including an outrageous 10 percent resort fee), it Park. Trout anglers have olor access to three miles esR. was irritating to be passed from one staff member to ado R. TELLURIDE olor of crystal-clear stream. C another. Our accommodations did little to assuage SAN JUAN Smith Fork Ranch is a NATIONAL the sense that our pockets had been picked. We UTAH FOREST civilized retreat that DOLORES opted for the year-old Kayenta Lodge as opposed inspires nostalgia for the 0 50 100 MI to a room in the original (and less expensive) Kiva Old West and the values 0 50 100 KM Lodge next door. Our Kayenta Premium Suite of a more innocent age. ARIZONA NEW MEXICO (201) had the best aspect of any room in either SMITHFORKRANCH.COM

March 2014 | hideaway report 9 building, and was located on the second floor with up to the ski hub of Mountain Village is right across VITICULTURE a balcony, warmed by a gas fire bowl, facing the the street. Palisade. A double-sided gas fireplace inside kept Before our arrival, the efficient concierge had the living room and bedroom cozy. As impressed confirmed dinner reservations, as well as a 4x4 as I was by the impeccable housekeeping, evidence excursion. The staff further endeared itself to me of cost-cutting could be seen everywhere, from the at check-in. Unprompted, the friendly woman at the plastic soaking tub to the faux-leather ottomans to front desk confided that she thought the $20 per-day the ugly carpet, obviously chosen for its ability to parking fee was too high, and changed it to $10. We hide stains. There was no turndown service. And ascended to our top-floor Premium Hot Tub Suite, though it was possible to arrange for room service, which at first glance seemed very appealing, done in practice this involved going to the restaurant to Tasting Notes in muted tones of gray, beige and brown. The spare, place an order for delivery, since the suite lacked COLORADO MAY SEEM dormered bedroom had a gas fireplace and a balcony any menus. The cuisine also proved to be uneven an unlikely place to grow overlooking the gondola; the travertine-clad bath in both the formal restaurant and the casual pub. wine grapes, but Sutcliffe provided a spacious shower stall. I didn’t care for Vineyards now produces In general, service was unfailingly warm serious wines. John Sutcliffe the slanted ceilings of the living room, but it offered and engaging, but the staff members seemed became a winemaker by a variety of comfortable seating choices, including to lack training in luxury hospitality, and the accident, initially planting a leather-upholstered sofa. Most remarkable was accommodations did not live up to their rates. I grapes for aesthetic the suite’s mountainview terrace, with a table and very much enjoyed the activities and the beautiful reasons. His winery outside chairs and a four-person Jacuzzi. of Cortez now has some 36 surroundings, but overall, the resort is a poor value acres of organic vineyards. It was bliss sitting in the hot tub with glasses of for the money. I enjoyed the characterful wine, watching the sunlight soften and dim on the Sauvignon Blanc and the mountains. Regrettably, this experience was marred riving southeast for just over 100 miles, we refreshing Riesling, but by the sloppy housekeeping. The area surrounding it was the creamy fruit of came to Telluride, a former silver mining the Jacuzzi was dirty, as was the wall of the shower. D the reds that really caught town, at an elevation of 8,750 feet. This is now one my attention. The Petit And later, as we were attempting to go to sleep, we of Colorado’s most dramatic ski resorts, overlooked Verdot in particular tasted became painfully aware of the room’s inadequate by 14,000-foot mountains. Ideally situated at the wonderfully rich. Dunton soundproofing. We checked out of the Hotel Columbia Hot Springs serves some edge of the historic center, the Hotel Columbia with few regrets. Sutcliffe wines at dinner, but is a contemporary 21-room property that houses you can also try them at the COSMOpolitan, one of Telluride’s best restaurants winery or in the Durango was confident that our next stay would go more (see below). Despite its in-town location, the hotel tasting room. smoothly. Our last visit to Dunton Hot Springs SUTCLIFFEWINES.COM I is convenient for skiers, as the free gondola leading had been delightful, and I looked forward to trying

COSMOpolitan Dining Attached to the Hotel Columbia, overlooking the gondola to Mountain Village, this contemporary American Discoveries restaurant incorporates local ingredients in as many dishes as possible. My appetizer of goat-cheese burrata came with heirloom tomatoes, pumpkin seeds, savory pumpkin-seed oil and arugula. The buffalo tenderloin in Majestic that followed was very flavorful, and was accompanied by risotto studded with foraged porcini mushrooms. Telluride A short but well-chosen wine list focuses on California, France and Italy. 300 WEST SAN JUAN AVENUE. TEL. (970) 728-1292. COSMOTELLURIDE.COM

221 South Oak This former house a short walk from the Hotel Columbia has no view of note, but it ranks as one of Telluride’s leading restaurants. In a cozy space decorated with bright landscapes, we started with a selection of house- made sausages, of which the sweet and savory chicken-cranberry and the Asian-inflected duck-mushroom versions were especially delicious. I also relished my main course of Colorado striped bass, served with meaty mushrooms and crunchy haricots verts. 221 SOUTH OAK STREET. TEL. (970) 728-9507. 221SOUTHOAK.COM Rustico Ristorante We enjoyed a fine Italian lunch at this classic restaurant on Colorado Avenue, Telluride’s main commercial street. I particularly enjoyed a plate of citrus-cured salmon served with crunchy white cabbage and tangy Citrus-cured salmon served with Borettane onions. The steep $29 price tag of the homemade tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms was less crunchy white cabbage and tangy Borettane onions at Rustico. palatable. But I would return just to take advantage of the impressively broad selection of Italian wines. I ordered a sprightly Picollo Gavi di Gavi, and a lush La Cappuccina “Arzimo” Passito for dessert. 114 EAST PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER COLORADO AVENUE. TEL. (970) 728-4046. RUSTICORISTORANTE.COM

10 hideaway report | March 2014 out its new luxury tented camp, Cresto Ranch, set four miles to the south. This eight-tent property occupies a tranquil expanse of meadow, forest and mountain, and overlooks a fine trout stream. On arrival, we were escorted to “Brook,” a River Tent, and before unpacking, we sat listening to the sound of the rushing water. Mountain Tents purport to have “spectacular views,” but trees can obscure the panoramas. “El Diente,” at the far end of the row, offers the best combination of privacy and views, while “Brook” is the most favorably sited River Tent. Inside, the tents exhibit rugged good taste, and staying in them requires little sacrifice of comfort. Ours came with a pine-framed king bed (twin-bedded tents are also available), cowhide rugs and pine nightstands topped with elegant glass lamps. In back, the tent opened to a full slate-floored bath, complete with hot water heater, shower/tub combination and vanities topped with quartz counters. The landline Inside, the tents exhibit rugged telephone and Wi-Fi dispelled any lingering sense good taste, and staying in them of roughing it. requires little sacrifice of comfort. We took our breakfasts and lunches in what “ PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER used to be a farmhouse, decorated now with a woodburning fireplace, communal dining tables and plaid sofas. The weather was warm enough to sit at the picnic tables outside. Dinners were at Dunton, where we enjoyed dishes such as Colorado venison with Gouda polenta, and Puget Sound scallops over forbidden rice and green beans in a well-balanced curry sauce. Staff members provided transportation between the two resorts, allowing us to indulge in the surprisingly good Colorado wines from Sutcliffe Vineyards, which paired with the various courses. HOTELS AT A GLANCE Throughout our stay, the staff were engaging Gateway Canyons Resort 86 LIKE Magnificent natural setting; elaborate Palisade swimming pool; flawless housekeeping. DISLIKE and clearly took pride in their work. A summer The 10 percent resort fee; the complex and inefficient system for arranging outdoor activities; the less- visit to Cresto Ranch is exceptionally pleasant, but than-luxurious room furnishings. GOOD TO KNOW Auto aficionados can rent exotic cars at the on-site Driven Experiences center. KAYENTA DELUXE, $670; KAYENTA SIGNATURE SUITE, $800. 43200 COLORADO I would not recommend braving the tents during HIGHWAY 141, GATEWAY, CO. TEL. (970) 931-2458. GATEWAYCANYONS.COM the spring or autumn, as their gas fireplaces might Hotel Columbia 84 prove insufficient to ward off the chill. LIKE Convenient central location adjacent to free gondola up to Mountain Village; notable restaurant; glorious mountain views from our Jacuzzi terrace. DISLIKE Poor housekeeping and maintenance; insufficient soundproofing. GOOD TO KNOW The front desk is not staffed at all late at night.PREMIUM urning back north, we drove through other- KING, $565; PREMIUM HOT TUB SUITE, $765. 301 WEST SAN JUAN AVENUE, TELLURIDE, CO. TEL. (970) 728-0660. T worldly red rock landscapes up to Sorrel River COLUMBIATELLURIDE.COM Ranch, close to both Arches and Canyonlands Cresto Ranch A90 LIKE Pristine surroundings; plush tents; delicious food; friendly and motivated staff members. DISLIKE national parks. The road leading to the property Tent heating may be inadequate for early spring and late fall. GOOD TO KNOW Cell phones receive no winds along the Colorado River, already forming a signal here, but long-distance calls from the tent’s landline are complimentary. MOUNTAIN OR RIVER TENT, $1,400, INCLUDING FULL BOARD. 52068 ROAD 38, DOLORES, CO. TEL. (970) 882-4800. DUNTONHOTSPRINGS.COM  canyon that presages the glories farther downstream. Accommodations occupy nine buildings along the Sorrel River Ranch 87 LIKE Glorious views of red rock landscape; unforgettable trail rides; fresh and spacious accommodations; river, and though the vistas from the Mountain efficient room service; excellent spa. DISLIKE The hit-and-miss cuisine; the many undertrained staff members. GOOD TO KNOW Corner accommodations such as H1, H4, J5 and J8 have more windows. View Rooms are pretty, trees and other buildings RIVER VIEW DELUXE KING, $530; RIVER SPA SUITE, $570. MILE 17, UTAH HIGHWAY 128, MOAB, UT. TEL. (435) 259-4642. can obscure the rock formations, making the River SORRELRIVER.COM View suites the best choice. For maximum privacy, A preceding a rating, denotes a recommended hotel. Visit Andrew Harper.com for more information opt for a second-floor suite with a balcony (Suites about all of my favorite hotels in Colorado and Utah.

March 2014 | hideaway report 11 LAST LOOK Church Rock, one of the many extraordinary LAST WORD sights we encountered driving from Cresto Ranch in Colorado to Moab, Utah PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER A Brave New World

AS YOU WILL SEE, this CONTINUED Scenic Rockies Drive is the third issue of the J1-J8), or to avoid stairs, select E1, E2 or H1-H4, comfortable wooden chairs on the patio, taking in new four-color newsletter, which all have riverview patios and minimal foot the mesmerizing views of the Colorado backdropped and I am delighted to say that the response to traffic. Suites C1, C2 and A1-A4 are closest to the by red rock formations. the new format has been swimming pool and the main lodge with its two As fit the pattern of the trip, the service did not overwhelmingly positive. restaurants and bar. quite live up to the ranch’s glorious setting. Many of We have also launched Our bright River View Deluxe King Suite had the staff were interns and their lack of experience our new website, where spectacular full-screen warm wood floors and wainscoting, and a beamed was painfully evident at times. Of greater concern slideshows encourage ceiling inspired by traditional latilla and viga was the inconsistency of the resort’s restaurants, you to dream of far-flung construction. Other touches left us in no doubt the only ones around for miles. Nevertheless, I lands. Of all the changes we that we were in the American West: horse heads have many pleasant memories of our stay. The have introduced, however, I am particularly pleased emblazoned the amber glass chandelier over the unforgettable “Ridge Top Ride” took us into the with those to The Andrew copper-topped dining table, as well as the light mesa- and pinnacle-punctuated landscape behind the Harper Collection. This is fixture over the sofa and rocking chair; steer horns resort. And an afternoon in the spa proved relaxing now published as a series hung above the log-framed four-poster king bed; and therapeutic. There is no better base from which of 12 booklets, designed and elsewhere, framed Remington prints decorated to explore the geologic wonders of Canyonlands to accompany you on your travels. In addition to hotel the walls. In the tiled bath, dual vanities faced and Arches national parks, but until Sorrel River recommendations, they now a claw-foot tub ringed with startlingly powerful Ranch increases its service and culinary standards, feature extended restaurant jets. Outside, we enjoyed morning coffee in the it cannot be recommended unreservedly. H listings, plus sightseeing and shopping suggestions. The TRAVEL OFFICE NEWS Collection is only included in Premier and Premier Online Planning Ahead for Summer in Europe subscriptions. To upgrade your subscription, please ALTHOUGH WINTER IS SCARCELY OVER, now is the time to make plans for high-season travel to Europe. As many call (866) 831-4314 or families vacation together during summer break, connecting rooms tend to be in short supply. Major cultural centers email clientrelations@ fill up quickly, as do favorite resort areas such as the Amalfi Coast, the Côte d’Azur and the Croatian archipelago. andrewharper.com. To escape the crowds, consider other possibilities. For example, the Swiss Alps and the Dolomites offer world-class hiking, as well as exceptional spa resorts and distinctive cuisine. The British Isles also have fine walking country in the Scottish Highlands and England’s Lake District, along with castles, distilleries and famed links golf courses such as St. Andrews, Muirfield and Royal Dornoch. Scandinavia enjoys long hours of summer sunshine and offers pristine beaches, dramatic fjords and some of Europe’s most exciting restaurants in Stockholm and Copenhagen. Regardless Personal Photos of your destination, be sure to book as far in advance as possible to avoid disappointment. Whenever possible, I will share Contact the Travel Office at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. photographs from my trips. These are denoted “Photo by Andrew Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication for sophisticated Harper.” On our website, you will travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for also find more personal pictures all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX and videos. In this newsletter, look 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, for the symbols below. Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2014 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096;  = slideshow at AndrewHarper.com WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.  = video at AndrewHarper.com Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Illustrator Melissa Colson