Pleasures of Provence and the Riviera NOWADAYS, Spas Have Become Mandatory at Hotels with Pretensions to Luxury
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This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected]. MARCH 2014 | OUR 35TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES IN THE NEWS BACK ROADS FROM AVIGNON TO ANTIBES Spring Spa Debut Pleasures of Provence and the Riviera NOWADAYS, spas have become mandatory at hotels with pretensions to luxury. But the European tradition of spa hotels began in the mid-19th century. The grandest of them all, Brenners Park- Hotel & Spa in Baden Baden, Germany, dates to 1872, when Stéphanie les Bains, an existing hotel, was purchased by Anton Brenner. Spring 2014 will see the debut of the Villa Stéphanie, a new 54,000-square-foot complex intended to set an entirely new standard for hotel spas. Brenners Park has formed a part- nership with the French cosmetics company Sisley. One highlight of the new facility will be its FEW PLACES IN THE WORLD ARE AS RELIABLY CHARMING AND CONSISTENTLY SURPRISING unique hammam. Spa guests will be able to as the south of France. Even after dozens of trips, whenever I return to Provence and the relax in a private park and Riviera I never fail to find a new hotel, a previously unknown village, a little restaurant, an a tranquil sunken garden. BRENNERS.COM atmospheric church, several wines to add to my cellar, or maybe a new olive oil. What I’ve learned, though, is that the best of the was appreciated by the popes when the papacy was THIS ISSUE south of France is often found off the beaten path. based in Avignon during the 14th century. Today, SOUTH OF FRANCE And this doesn’t mean simply taking quiet country wine writers refer to Tavel as “the year-round rosé” A journey through the roads instead of highways, but tracking down those because it is robust enough to dispel the traditional unspoiled heartland lesser-known places that the locals understandably idea that rosés are only for summer drinking. After of Provence keep to themselves. a tasting at which we ordered some wines to be MARSEILLE Arriving in Avignon on my latest trip, for shipped home, we enjoyed an excellent meal at the A fresh look at example, we visited the Musée Angladon, an warm, friendly Auberge de Tavel. This had been France’s second city overlooked gem with several canvases by Degas, recommended by an amiable winemaker with THE ROCKIES Modigliani and Sisley, before heading to the Tavel whom we’d struck up a conversation while having A road trip in western wine region just outside of the city. Tavel is called a coffee in the bar car on the TGV train from Paris. Colorado and Utah the “King of Rosés” because, or so the story goes, it A delicious ragout of baby artichokes was followed For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Aside from its historic charm, the character of the property comes from an imaginative décor that successfully combines contemporary “furniture with local antiques. BED/DINING ROOM PHOTOS BY CYRIL LETOURNEUR; BATH PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER La Maison d’Uzès LOCAL CRAFTS by cannelloni stuffed with lamb, guinea hen with that it occurred to me that I could very happily live tapenade, and a superb cheese tray. in Uzès. Back at the hotel, chef Oscar Garcia served an outstanding meal of brandade de morue (salt e then headed to Uzès, 25 miles west of cod with whipped potatoes) with squid’s ink and W Avignon and among the most delightful red peppers, guinea hen stewed in red wine with towns in the Midi. Our destination was the 12-room crayfish, and veal roasted with local black olives. Maison d’Uzès, which opened last spring in an The hotel’s principal amenity is a small spa in the elegantly restored set of 17th-century stone houses. vaulted cellars. Aside from the friendly service, Since most of the surrounding streets are pedestrian- elegant décor and well-considered comfort, what I only, we left the car at a nearby garage and walked like most about this place is the ideal setting from over to the hotel. There, we were welcomed with which to ponder the beauty of Uzès itself. Ceramics cool hand towels and iced tea, which we sipped in The best way to enjoy the nearby Pont du Gard, JUST FOUR MILES north the small, stylishly appointed salon adjacent to the the famous stone aqueduct that was built in the of Uzès, Saint-Quentin- reception area. The heart of the house — despite first century to supply the city of Nîmes, is to be la-Poterie was one of the centers of ceramics offering hotel amenities and services of a high there when the site opens. So we rose early, and on production in southern standard, it really does feel more like a house — is a quiet morning, we were able to contemplate this France for many centuries. a magnificent Renaissance stone staircase. Aside spectacular structure almost alone. We then headed Today, more than 20 from the historic charm of the honey-colored stone southeast for 25 miles to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. workshops produce walls, huge overhead beams and tomette (terra-cotta It was market day (Wednesday) in this enchanting porcelain, grès (varnished tile) floors, the character of the property comes from little town, and we wandered through bustling and enameled sandstone), an imaginative décor that successfully combines raku (Japanese earthen- stalls selling olive oil and lavender. Then, after a ware) and faïence. The contemporary furniture with local antiques. delicious lunch of salt cod with boiled vegetables, work of local ceramicists Our room was located up a stone stairway on potatoes and aioli at an old favorite, Le Bistrot du is displayed and sold at the third floor. (Those with mobility issues should Paradou, we headed east on a web of back roads to the Terra Viva gallery. inform the management, so that they will be given Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume to visit its superb 14 RUE DE LA FONTAINE. TEL. (33) 4-66-22-48-78. rooms at the back of the hotel, where there is an 14th-century Gothic basilica, dedicated to Mary GALERIE-TERRAVIVA.COM elevator.) Late in the afternoon, sun streamed into Magdalene. The soaring nave is ornamented with Next door, the small, the high-ceilinged space, which was decorated in the coats of arms of the counts of Provence, and the charming Musée de la soothing tones of ivory and pale yellow. In a sitting interior speaks of an ancient land, one indifferent Poterie Méditerranéenne area, several upholstered armchairs stood in front to the ebb and flow of tourism. documents the history of of a handsome old fireplace. The large bath came local production and also with an oversize claw-foot tub, a separate shower ontinuing our journey, we came to the little exhibits ceramics from all around the Mediterranean and the same powdery-soft old tomettes underfoot. C village of La Celle just outside of Draguignan. basin. TEL. (33) 4-66-03-65- Before dinner, we went for an aperitif at Terroirs, Here, 15 years ago, Alain Ducasse took over an old- 86. MUSEE-POTERIE-MEDITER- a popular wine bar overlooking the Place aux Herbes. fashioned hotel, Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La RANEE.COM It was while sipping a nice, flinty local white wine Celle, a former 12th-century Benedictine abbey, 2 hideaway report | March 2014 Lyme Bay United Kingdom e r Netherlands D o v i t o f S t r a English Channel NORD-PAS-DE-CALAIS Belgium Baie de la Seine Golfe de St-malo HAUTE-NORMANDIE BASSE-NORMANDIE PICARDIE Luxembourg Germany BRETAGNE ILE DE FRANCE CHAMPAGNE-ARDENNE LORRAINE PAYS DE LA LOIRE and transformed it into a relaxed but stylish 10- Chef room auberge. The hotel was once a favorite retreat Benoit Witz ALSACE of President Charles deCEN Gaulle,TRE so I couldn’t resist booking his preferred “LucrèceFr dean Barras,”ce a spacious suite with a beamed ceiling and ancient tile floors spread with Brussels carpets. A framed etching of the general, who liked to seclude himself here to write, made us feel as though he’d just stepped out BOURGOGNE FRANCHE- for a stroll in the large garden. With a comfortable COMTE bed made up with good linens, plus a desk, a pair POITOU-CHARENTES of armchairs in front of the fireplace and a large dressing area, we fell for the room immediately, though its small but serviceable bath needed some Bay of Biscay updating. The inn struck us as an alluring and unselfconscious distillation of everything there is to like about Provence. Switzerland Not surprisingly, since this property is part of the LIMDucasseOUSIN empire, the restaurant proved to be excellent. So, after a drink in the pleasant bar, we dined on the large terrace outside and thoroughly enjoyed the cooking of chef Benoit Witz. Risotto with squid’s ink was followed by John Dory with AUVERGNE fennel and a condiment of preserved lemons. The service was attentive, and the wine list offered a fine selection of local Côtes de Provence. Though the vineyards of the Var — the Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La Celle department of Provence where La Celle is located POOL/CHEF PHOTOS BY DAVID BORDES ROOM PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER AQUITAINE — are best known for producing rosé wines, I’ve also enjoyed some excellent whites and reds from local winemakers.