EN MARSEILLE Restaurant guide 2017 www.resamarseille.com EDITORIAL Dining in Marseille Why not get a taste of Marseille? A port with a rich history, the oldest city in France is also revealed in its restaurants. We have designed a circuit of a little over 110 restaurants, which all have in common the taste of Provence and elsewhere. In these pages, you can explore all the special flavour of the garlic, the olive oil, and dishes that are sometimes very simple, like roasted sea bream with a few slices of crystallised lemon, and sometimes very sophisticated. Because Marseille is a meeting place, a city where you will find gastronomy made from the heart. Here more than elsewhere, chefs bring nobility to the most ordinary dishes. They achieve great feats with lamb and a sprig of thyme. Marseille is proud of cuisine rooted in its identity, and if you can feel its sensitive vibrations, you are sure to be won over. So welcome, enjoy your stay here and, above all, get a taste of Marseille! Pierre PSALTIS 2 3 CONTENTS North Bank of the Old Port p6 The J4 / Euroméditerranée district p8 Le Panier p11 South Bank of the Old Port p12 On the road to Saint Barnabé p14 Mazargues Borely p15 Near Saint-Victor p17 Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde p18 From the Pharo to the Prado bathing park p20 From the Prado bathing park to Les Goudes p22 Also in the Calanques p23 Near Orange Vélodrome p25 Near Castellane p26 Rue Paradis Palais de Justice p28 From the Old Port to Palais Longchamp p30 Near Cours Julien / La Plaine p32 L’Estaque p34 4 5 > L’ALCYONE 1 star in the MICHELIN® guide - Bouillabaisse The spirit of the daughter of Aeolus blows through this top-quality restaurant where Lionel Lévy follows every inspiration. Here you can find NORTH BANK the Mediterranean's finest seafood (lobster, scallops, sea bass) and all the terroir of Provence (truffles, season's vegetables). InterContinental Marseille Hôtel Dieu, 1, place Daviel, 2nd arr. OF THE OLD PORT 04 13 42 43 43. Closed on Sunday and Monday. Evening service only. A la carte €99, 139 and 189. > LES FENÊTRES An appetising brasserie with 5-star comfort for lounge lovers: gravlax salmon tartare with citrus fruit and ginger, marinated sea bass with Bottarga shavings, pissaladière tart with fresh anchovies, bouillabaisse milk-shake. A heady experience. And not forgetting the chilled white and rosé wines... InterContinental Marseille Hôtel Dieu, 1, place Daviel, 2nd arr. 04 13 42 43 43. Open 7 days a week. Lunch menus: €36 and 43; dinner menu: €43 and 68. > LE POULPE Guide Fooding® 2017 > UNE TABLE, AU SUD 1 star in the MICHELIN® guide - Bouillabaisse A bistrot decorated by François Champsaur with Michel (Portos) and Michel Ludovic Turac in his kitchen - imagine freshly caught fish served in an aïgo (Ankri) at the helm. A view of Notre-Dame de la Garde and the Old Port. boulido sauce spiced up with anchovy and a thickened bull stew or a The dishes tell a very local story based on octopus stew and Corsican delicious young pigeon supreme roasted in smoke bacon and a chicken charcuterie. leg comfit in a pomegranate-flavoured tea. Karine is in the dining room, 84, quai du Port, 2nd arr. 04 95 09 15 91. serving wines that may not be rare, but are definitely out of the ordinary. Open 7 days a week. Lunch from €19 to 26. Evening: €40. Harmony and elegance. nd 2, quai du Port, 2 arr. 04 91 90 63 53. Shellfish Lunch €31 and 47. Menus: €48, 78, 98. A la carte €95 > CHEZ ROGER Closed on Sunday evenings and Mondays. A brand new seafood restaurant run by Jean-Luc, the worthy son of his father, with a fine selection of oysters (gillardeau, bouzigues, isigny, marennes) and shellfish. A tuna or salmon tartare or an octopus salad round off the > CHEZ MADIE, LES GALINETTES menu along with a selection of Cassis AOP wines. The smile and warm generosity of Delphine Roux can be found in her dishes: 28, quai du Port, 2nd arr. 04 91 90 60 16. clams in thyme, pieds paquets and local stew provide a noble idea of typical A la carte €30 Marseille cuisine. We have her dad to thank for the supply of top-quality meats. Character and great taste. > LE CIRQUE Bouillabaisse 138, quai du Port, 2nd arr. 04 91 90 40 87. Lunch menu: €18; set menu €30. A la carte, about €40. Christophe Verdu is a man of discretion who respects his ingredients. He Closed on Sunday evening. has dedicated almost all his life to the Mediterranean - unsurprisingly, given this idyllic location on the Old Port. Sea bass, sea bream and lobster feature side by side on the menu with everything fans of pasta and meat require. > LE CAFÉ DES ÉPICES Guide Fooding® 2017 118, quai du Port, 2nd arr. 04 91 91 08 91. Since 2002 Arnaud Carton's cuisine has always been intuitive and filled with Bouillabaisse menu €39; à la carte €55. emotion; his menus have not aged a bit: razor shell clams with a seaweed butter gratin, rack of lamb, pasta direct from Turin in Italy... It's full of life, > LE CARMINE concentrated, energetic and very Mediterranean! 4, rue du Lacydon, 2nd arr. 04 91 91 22 69. Over the years, Le Carmine has changed from a fashionable restaurant to Lunch menu: €30, dinner: €39. A la carte from €26 to 46. a culinary institution. If you like a festive atmosphere and good dishes, this is Closed on Saturday evening, Sunday and Monday. the place for you! Your evening begins with a mojito or a spritz while sharing a pizza. Next, the resident DJ's set will take you through the pasta specials (with Bottarga or clams) to the beef tagliata, the Rital burger or the grilled > LE RELAIS 50 sea bream. A not-to-be-missed "before" restaurant. nd Since arriving in the city in October 2015, Noël Baudran has won everyone 132-134, quai du Port, 2 arr. 04 91 31 93 89. over with his generous style: scallops, farmhouse eggs, beef… An assembly A la carte €4. Closed on Sundays and Monday evenings. of fine dishes washed down with regional wines. Mediterranean history is being made here every day with the help of high standards and a friendly > TRATTORIA MARCO atmosphere. nd If home-made cooking has a meaning, then it's to be found here, where each 18, quai, du Port, 2 arr. 04 91 52 52 50. day Marco plunges his hands into the flour to make his fresh pasta. With Lunch set menus €19 and €24; menus €39, 50 and 65. a dash of olive oil, tomato sauce and parmesan, his pasta soon becomes "Classic" dishes from €17 to 26. addictive. Baba, sfogiatella and tiramisu sweeten the end-of-meal coffee. 2, rue de la Guirlande, 2nd arr. 04 91 90 60 08. 6 Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. A la carte €40 7 > LE MIRAMAR Bouillabaisse > LE MÔLE PASSÉDAT Marseille folklore on a tablecloth with a wonderful view over the Old Port. LA CUISINE Christian Buffa is a generous and welcoming chef. His menus are filled In a guesthouse restaurant spirit, delicious meats, fish and vegetarian dishes. with the great classics from Alexandre Dumas to Auguste Escoffier. The Provence, Greece, Lebanon and Armenia are combined in a cultural and bouillabaisse and the bourride are not to be missed. culinary cauldron where fresh, local produce is the rule. nd 12, quai du Port, 2nd arr. 04 91 91 10 40 1, esplanade du J4, top floor of Mucem, 2 arr. No reservations. Bouillabaisse or bourride €63, à la carte from €71 to 85; shellfish plateau Closed on Tuesdays. €118 for two. Closed on Mondays. LA TABLE Between the port, the Mucem and the cathedral, here the chef Philippe > LA PISCINE Moreno's cuisine blends the Mediterranean and Provence: shredded Florent Manaudou, Jean-François, Momo and Yohann wanted diners to swim cod-artichokes-Bottarga, scallops-sweet chestnuts-coffee, and criss-cross in happiness. They asked the ex-star of French TV cooking, Georgina Viou, to nougat-blood orange tart all testify to his talent. take the plunge. The result is a fine dining room, a wonderful atmosphere, 1, esplanade du J4, top floor of Mucem, nd2 arr. 04 91 19 17 80. Lunch contemporary dishes and the soul of Provence. menu €55, dinner menu: €75. Closed on Sunday evening and on Tuesdays. 148, quai du port, 2nd arr. 04 91 89 53 54. A la carte: €30-35. > LA TABLE DE L’OLIVIER Bouillabaisse At the end of the meal, you'll want to give Gilles Carmignani a hug: quintessence of game and floating islands with truffle, and squid stuffed with puréed pieds-paquets with thyme pursue the great tradition of classic French cuisine. Highly skilled recipes rooted in the region - the fennel tart and liquorice ice cream will make you swoon. THE J4 La Table de l’Olivier, 56, rue Mazenod, 2nd arr. 04 91 91 17 04. Open at lunchtime from Monday to Friday and on Friday evening. Other evenings, reservation only. Lunch menu €21.50, set menus €39 and 51. EUROMÉDITERRANÉE A la carte €55. > LE COMPTOIR DES DOCKS At the heart of the 19th century docks, behind the long counter, a grill and a DISTRICT plancha are enough to satisfy every need. Choose your main course and side dish (prime cut of beef with shallots, Bobosse andouillette, fried cuttlefish with parsley, green lentil salad, falafels) and enjoy.