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Sir John Herschel and the Breithorn
298 SIR JOHN HERSCHEL AND THE BREITHORN • SIR JOHN HERSCHEL AND THE BREITHORN BY CLAIRE ELIANE ENGEL HERE is a tradition according to which the Breithorn was first climbed in 1813 by a completely unknown Frenchman, Henri 1 • • Maynard and later by Sir John Herschel. F. F. Tuckett inci- dentally mentioned the fact that Sir John Herschel had told him he had ascended the Breithorn from the Theodul in 1821 ; Tuckett had never heard of Maynard.2 Lord Minto, who went up the mountain in 1830, called it Monte Rosa and said, it was the summit ascended in I822 by Sir' John Herschel. 3 His authority vvas either Sir John himself, or J oseph-Marie Couttet who had been the first guide of both parties. Coolidge accepted 1822 as the date of Herschel's climb.4 According to Tuckett, no Zermatt guide had ever reached the summit before him, in June 1859. · Now it is obvious that there is some missing link in this story, and I • • endeavoured to find it. Thanks to the great .kindness of the Rev. Sir John Herschel, the astronomer's grandson, I am able to give the com plete story of the second ascent of the Breithorn by Sir John Herschel in 1821. His travel-diaries are kept in Slough Observatory House, the family seat, and his grandson allowed me to read them and to have his drawings photographed. I found a few more details in Sir John's letters to the Genevese astronomer Alfred Gautier vvhich are kept in the Bibliotheque Publique et U niversitaire in Geneva. -
The Summits of Modern Man: Mountaineering After the Enlightenment (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2013)
Bibliography Peter H. Hansen, The Summits of Modern Man: Mountaineering after the Enlightenment (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2013) This bibliography consists of works cited in The Summits of Modern Man along with a few references to citations that were cut during editing. It does not include archival sources, which are cited in the notes. A bibliography of works consulted (printed or archival) would be even longer and more cumbersome. The print and ebook editions of The Summits of Modern Man do not include a bibliography in accordance with Harvard University Press conventions. Instead, this online bibliography provides links to online resources. For books, Worldcat opens the collections of thousands of libraries and Harvard HOLLIS records often provide richer bibliographical detail. For articles, entries include Digital Object Identifiers (doi) or stable links to online editions when available. Some older journals or newspapers have excellent, freely-available online archives (for examples, see Journal de Genève, Gazette de Lausanne, or La Stampa, and Gallica for French newspapers or ANNO for Austrian newspapers). Many publications still require personal or institutional subscriptions to databases such as LexisNexis or Factiva for access to back issues, and those were essential resources. Similarly, many newspapers or books otherwise in the public domain can be found in subscription databases. This bibliography avoids links to such databases except when unavoidable (such as JSTOR or the publishers of many scholarly journals). Where possible, entries include links to full-text in freely-accessible resources such as Europeana, Gallica, Google Books, Hathi Trust, Internet Archive, World Digital Library, or similar digital libraries and archives. -
Chalet Breithorn
SKIARMADILLO | LUXURY CATERED CHALETS IN VERBIER CHALET BREITHORN Verbier, Switzerland BREITHORN | CHALET OVERVIEW CHALET OVERVIEW A high-quality, free-standing chalet than can sleep up to 13 guests 6 bedrooms all en suite Open-plan living areas Hot-tub and Sauna 7 minute walk to Place Centrale 5 minute drive to the Medran Daily driver service available from 08:00 until 20:00 BREITHORN | CHALET DESCRIPTION DESCRIPTION Chalet Breithorn is a ground floor apartment nestled in an exclusive part of Verbier. Occupying the whole of the ground floor Breithorn is a luxury property for up to 13 guests. The contemporary design creates bright and meticulously thought through accommodation exquisitely complemented by bespoke alpine furnishings. There is a large sitting room area offering a dual aspect view, the galley kitchen opens onto the south facing dining area and 6 stunning bedrooms, all with private facilites, offer flexible sleeping arrangements for up to a maximum of 13 guests. Other facilities are ski and boot room with heated storage, a sauna and jacuzzi. BREITHORN | CHALET LAYOUT CHALET LAYOUT GUESTROOMS 1 x triple room with en-suite facilities 2 x double room with en-suite facilities 1 x twin room with en-suite facilities 2 x Austrian twin rooms with shared facilities LIVING AREA Open-plan kitchen, dining, lounge area Cinema room, Sauna and hot-tub Large South-facing Balcony BREITHORN | WHAT'S INCLUDED WHAT'S INCLUDED A personal chef and host in your chalet Pre-dinner drinks on your first and last evening Canapes on your first and last evening Gourmet three-course dinner on six nights Earlier supper time for children, if required Two pairs of selected wines with dinner Honesty bar for beers, mixers and soft drinks Breakfast seven days a week Afternoon tea served six days a week In-resort concierge service BREITHORN | ADDITIONAL SERVICES ADDITIONAL SERVICES Our concierge team are on-hand to assist with all other elements of your skiing holiday. -
Matterhorn Guided Ascent Ex Zermatt 2021
MATTERHORN 4,478M / 14,691FT EX ZERMATT 2021 TRIP NOTES MATTERHON EX ZERMATT TRIP NOTES 2021 TRIP DETAILS Dates: Available on demand July to September Duration: 6 days Departure: ex Zermatt, Switzerland Price: €5,870 per person A classic ‘must-do’ European climb. Photo: Mike Roberts The Matterhorn is undeniably the most magnificent and well-known peak in the Alps. Its bold pyramidal shape evokes emotions of wonderment and even fear in those who view it for the first time, as its four distinct faces stand omnipotent and menacing over the green meadows below. Separated by sharp ridges, the four faces are orientated to the four points of the compass, the northern aspects within Switzerland while the southern side lies in Italy. We ascend via the Hörnli Ridge that separates the rich heritage adds to the superb facilities, including North and East Faces via a long and technical route catered huts and lift systems offering services not requiring the utmost attention from climbers. The seen elsewhere. steep rock ridge is very involving and a successful attempt requires a rapid rate of ascent and full The Hörnli Ridge is the route by which the concentration by a fit party. The steep North and Matterhorn’s first ascent was made in 1865 by the East Faces drop away spectacularly on either side tenacious Englishman, Edward Whymper, after and the sense of exposure is dramatic. many attempts on the mountain. In what became the most famous alpine calamity of all time, the With its formidable history and the magnificent group suffered a terrible tragedy on the descent grandeur of its architecture, the Hörnli Ridge on when a rope broke resulting in the loss of four of the Matterhorn is a climb that is definitely worth the party. -
IFP 1707 Dent Blanche – Matterhorn – Monte Rosa
Inventaire fédéral des paysages, sites et monuments naturels d'importance nationale IFP IFP 1707 Dent Blanche – Matterhorn – Monte Rosa Canton Communes Surface Valais Evolène, Zermatt 26 951 ha Le Gornergletscher et le Grenzgletscher IFP 1707 Dent Blanche – Matterhorn – Monte Rosa Stellisee Hameau de Zmutt Dent Blanche avec glacier de Ferpècle 1 IFP 1707 Dent Blanche – Matterhorn – Monte Rosa 1 Justification de l’importance nationale 1.1 Région de haute montagne au caractère naturel et sauvage, avec nombreux sommets de plus de 4000 m d’altitude 1.2 Mont Rose, massif alpin avec le plus haut sommet de Suisse 1.3 Mont Cervin, montagne emblématique à forme pyramidale 1.4 Plusieurs glaciers de grande étendue avec marges proglaciaires intactes, en particulier le Gornergletscher, l’un des plus grands systèmes glaciaires de Suisse 1.5 Marmites glaciaires, roches polies et stries glaciaires, structures représentatives des diverses formes glaciaires 1.6 Situation tectonique unique dans les Alpes suisses, superposant des unités tectoniques et des roches de provenances paléogéographiques très variées 1.7 Vastes forêts naturelles de mélèzes et d’aroles 1.8 Phénomènes glaciaires et stades morainiques remarquables et diversifiés 1.9 Zones riches en cours d’eau et lacs d’altitude 1.10 Grande richesse floristique et faunistique, comprenant de nombreuses espèces rares et endémiques 1.11 Zmutt, hameau avec des bâtiments traditionnels bien conservés 2 Description 2.1 Caractère du paysage Le site Dent Blanche-Matterhorn-Monte Rosa est une zone de haute montagne encadrée de massifs montagneux imposants dans la partie méridionale du Valais et à la frontière avec l’Italie. -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
In Memoriam 115
IN MEMORIAM 115 • IN MEMORIAM CLAUDE WILSON 1860-1937 THE death of Claude Wilson within a few weeks of attaining his seventy-seventh birthday came as a terrible shock to his many friends. Few of us even knew that he was ill, but in the manner of his passing none can regret that there was no lingering illness. We can but quote his own words in Lord Conway's obituary: 'the best we can wish for those that we love is that they may be spared prolonged and hopeless ill health.' His brain remained clear up to the last twenty-four hours and he suffered no pain. The end occurred on October 31. With Claude Wilson's death an epoch of mountaineering comes to an end. He was of those who made guideless and Alpine history from Montenvers in the early 'nineties, of whom but Collie, Kesteven, Bradby, ~olly and Charles Pasteur still survive. That school, in which Mummery and Morse were perhaps the most prominent examples, was not composed of specialists. Its members had learnt their craft under the best Valais and Oberland guides; they were equally-proficient on rocks or on snow. It mattered little who was acting as leader in the ascent or last man in the descent. They were prepared to turn back if conditions or weather proved unfavourable. They took chances as all mountaineers are forced to do at times but no fatal accidents, no unfortunate incidents, marred that great page of Alpine history, a page not confined to Mont Blanc alone but distributed throughout the Western Alps. -
Aura Peng Project 4.1.2007 14:41 Uhr Seite 1
Aura Peng Project 4.1.2007 14:41 Uhr Seite 1 WORLD HIGHEST HOTEL FACING WORLD HIGHEST MOUNTAIN AURA PENG PROJECT Aura Peng Project 4.1.2007 14:41 Uhr Seite 2 Aura Peng Project 4.1.2007 14:41 Uhr Seite 3 CONTENT 4 INTRODUCTION 7 FIRST IMPRESSIONS AND IDEAS 10 MOUNTAIN SPIRIT 12 AURA PENG PROJECT 14 SECTION 16 ARRIVAL 18 LOBBY 20 ROOMS 23 ALTITUDE COMPENSATION 24 WELLNESS 26 RESTAURANT 28 SERVICE LEVELS 30 TECHNICAL COMMENTARY 34 DISH / STIRLING SYSTEMS 36 WATER CYCLE 38 STRUCTURAL CONCEPT 41 PREFABRICATION, INSTALLATION 42 «LES PIERRES SACRÉES», DR. MICHEL CLIVAZ TEAM 52 PEAK ARCHITEKTEN 54 SCHLAICH BERGERMANN UND PARTNER 56 HL-PP CONSULT 58 TERRALINK GMBH 3 Aura Peng Project 4.1.2007 14:41 Uhr Seite 4 INTRODUCTION A U R A PENG PROJECT My Peak partner Ueli Lehmann and I were sitting on the plane about to land in Lhasa. It was to be the first time that I would set foot on Tibetan soil. Through the small windows I tried to catch my first glimpse of the buildings. This country, its people, their beliefs and culture have fascinated me for a long time. Soon, I would be among them. However, I probably would not have travelled there without a special incentive. At the beginning of this trip stood the 2005 Klein Matterhorn project by Peak Architekten for the world’s highest hotel. It is a dream loca- tion for a hotel that will explode all dimensions. Like a space station, its pressurized cabins equipped with all amenities will make life comfortable at an altitude of 4000 m – just over 13,000 ft – above sea level. -
Hiking the Haute Route
Hiking the Haute Route 11 Days Hiking the Haute Route Experience the Haute Route or "High Road" of the Alps on this challenging itinerary designed for serious trekkers. The Haute Route connects Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn on one of the most spectacular hikes in all the Alps, showcasing majestic mountain passes, alpine pastures, glorious glaciers, storybook hamlets, and delightful alpine huts. Embrace the thrill of summiting ten passes in ten days, guided by top professional guides, and enjoy the comfort of warm hospitality at night in a string of charming alpine towns and villages. Details Testimonials Arrive: Geneva, Switzerland "Around every turn, over every pass they view continuously moves from Depart: Geneva or Zermatt, Switzerlandincredible to never to be forgotten. It really made me think of the amazing Duration: 11 Days power of nature." Jeffrey S. Group Size: 4-16 Guests Minimum Age: 18 Years Old "The sense of accomplishment that came with this trip was matched by the Activity Level: Level 4 vistas, the trails, and the scope of the . experience." Owen W. REASON #01 REASON #02 REASON #03 No one knows the Alps like Professional MT Sobek guides Custom-designed for MT MT Sobek, with four decades are the best in the Alps, all well Sobek, our Haute Route trek of experience leading trips reputed for their indispensable combines strenuous all-day here and a regular following knowledge and skillsets. treks, with carefully chosen, of Alps-loving clients. comfortable lodgings in gorgeous alpine settings. ACTIVITIES LODGING CLIMATE High-altitude hikes, challenging Charming, first-class The days can change from hot summits that involve steep trails, accommodations in alpine to cold and wet. -
Einige Wandervorschläge
Einige Wandervorschläge Nordend Doufourspitze Liskamm Castor Pollux Breithorn Klein Matterhorn Matterhorn 4609 m 4633 m 4527 m 4228 m 4029 m 4164 m 3883 m 4478 m Rechte Talseite Europaweg Grächen–Zermatt 12 Std. 1 Höhenweg Grächen–SaasFee 6 ⁄2 Std. Grächen–Bordierhütte 5 Std. Plateau Rosa Gasenried–Bordierhütte 5 Std. 1 Monte-Rosa-Hütte Seetalhorn–Plattja–Gasenried–Grächen 4 ⁄4 Std. Stockhorn Hörnli-Hütte Grächen–Gasenried–Schallbetten–Mattsand 3 Std. 3352 m 3260 m Rimpfischhorn Theodulgletscher 1 Strahlhorn 4198 m Grächen–Egga–Bergji–Hohtschugge 1 ⁄4 Std. 4190 m Gandegghütte Trockener Steg Waldrandspaziergang 1 Std. Gornergrat 3030 m 3100 m Dom Täschhorn Ober-Rothorn Furgg (Station) 4490 m Linke Talseite 4545 m 3415 m Schwarzsee Allalin Unt. Äschhorn 1 4027 m Unter-Rothorn St. Niklaus–Jungen–Augstbordpass–Gruben 7 ⁄2 Std. Riffelberg 3618 m Kinhorn 3103 m Sunnegga 2288 m Riffelalp Jungen–Jungtal Wasulicka–Topali–Randa 12 Std. 3752 m Mettelhorn Lenzspitze 1 St. Niklaus–Schwidernen–Hüttenweg Topali 4 ⁄2 Std. 4294 m Täschhütte 3406 m 2701 m 1 Nadelhorn Zermatt St. Niklaus–Mattsand–Randa–Täsch–Zermatt 5 ⁄2 Std. 4327 m Hohberghorn 1600 m Leiterspitzen Jungen–Schalb–Moosalpe 4 Std. 4219 m Weisshorn Metro Alpin Stecknadelhorn Dürrenhorn Europaweghütte St. Niklaus–Sparren–Jungtal 4 Std. Ulrichshorn 4505 m 4241 m 4034 m 1 3929 m Täschalpe St. Niklaus–Jungen 2 ⁄2 Std. Balfrin 1 Saas Fee 3795 m Rundweg in Jungen 2 ⁄2 Std. Feegletscher Mischabelhütte Weisshornhütte Embd–Schalb 1 Std. Kinhütte 2932 m 2584 m Kalpetran–Embd 1 Std. Täsch Bishorn 1 Domhütte Bisgletscher Törbel–Embd 1 ⁄2 Std. -
Book Reviews 1982
225 Book Reviews 1982 Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman DAL CAUCASO AL HIMALAYA. VITTORIO SELLA (Club Alpino Italiano/Touring Club Italiano, 1982, pp 239, profusely illustrated, 300 x 220mm, npq.) This magnificent volume has been graciously presented to the Club by Dr Ludovico Sella and inscribed'A souvenir of Vittorio Sella's long association with British mountaineering'. The definitive biography in English of Sella was written by our member, Ronald Clark, and published in 1948 under the title The Splendid Hills. It was reviewed at length in AJ L VII. In 1981, nearly 40 years after Sella's death, a much more detailed work has been produced under the aegis of the Italian Alpine Club and the Touring Club. This is stated to be the first comprehensive account'at least in Italy' of the great man and his work. This is certainly true of the text with its detailed history of the Sella family, and records of Sella's extensive Alpine travels in his earlier years, particularly his great winter ascents of the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa. The large illustrations, for the most part, as the title of the book suggests, are related to his travels beyond Europe, and thus his Alpine and Dolomite photographs are not as fully represented as in Clark's book. In 1879, after the premature death of his father, Vittorio was 'bought out' of the cavalry regiment in which he was serving, in order to train for his future responsibilities in the prosperous textile mills owned by the family. His father had been a keen photographer, and Vittorio acquired his large camera, and other equipment. -
DIE VIELEN GESICHTER DER DENT D’HÉRENS Hochgebirge Wagten
ALPINE GESCHICHTE, KULTUR, ERZÄHLUNGEN T E X T /F O T OS Françoise Funk-Salamì, Zürich (ü) Walliser Landschreiber Antoni Lambien das «Weisszeh- horn»1 auf seiner Karte. Dieser Name wandelte sich später rreicht man über die Serpentinen ob Sitten das Dorf in «Wyss Zehen Horn», «Zehen Horn» und «Weiszeh- Vex am Eingang des Val d’Hérens, erscheint weit in horn»2 und ab 1820 ins französische «Dent Blanche». Der E der Ferne die unverwechselbare Kulisse der Dent Name Dent d’Hérens hingegen ist in kartografi schen d’Hérens, 4171 m. Taleinwärts gehend, verschwindet sie Zeugnissen noch relativ jung. aber schon bald wieder. Und wer sich von der dominan- Doch welcher Berg war mit «Weisszehhorn» gemeint? ten Dent Blanche in Bann ziehen lässt, wird sie in Evolène Auf alten Karten3 ist das Weisszahnhorn im Alpenhaupt- kaum mehr beachten. Trotzdem tragen sie und das Tal kamm westlich vom Matterhorn, etwa an der Stelle der den gleichen Namen. Was nicht immer so war, wurde die heutigen Dent d’Hérens, eingezeichnet. Galt also der Dent d’Hérens doch auch als Dent Blanche bezeichnet. Name ursprünglich ihr? Für den Engländer Coolidge be- Dies entspräche eher den Gegebenheiten, denn die Dent stand kein Zweifel, dass das Weisszahnhorn auf diesen Blanche, die mächtige Felspyramide über Les Haudères, Karten falsch kartiert worden war und dass damit die vom ist alles andere als weiss. Im Gegensatz zur Dent d’Hérens, Tal aus dominant und näher gelegene, heutige Dent Blan- dem mächtigen vergletscherten Zahn im Talkessel von che gemeint war. Zmutt, dessen Anblick fast in die Gebirgswelt des Pamir Dies lässt sich nachvollziehen, wenn man weiss, dass versetzt.