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FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ®

NOVEMBER 2019 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE Unexpected

FlorenceHidden itineraries, not-to-be missed food destinations, top events

In the heart of Florence, just a few steps away from the historic treasures of the city, you will find Rinascente: the ideal place to find the best in fashion, accessories and beauty and to taste the best gourmet foods. An exclusive shopping experience that brings together women’s & men’s fashion, a craft gallery with artisan brands, a café, a restaurant, a wine bar and a terrace with a breathtaking view over the Duomo.

FLORENCE | PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

E NJOY YOUR SHOPPING SHOW THIS COUPON TO GET 10%* OFF YOUR PURCHASES

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*Exclusively for foreign individual customers upon presentation of a valid foreign passport. Valid except for regional restriction regulations and only on brands which support the initiative. The discount cannot be combined with other promotions and does not apply on cafeterias, restaurants, and on food market purchases. Valid until December 31, 2019. **Tax free: If you are resident in an Extra-EU country and you have spent at least 154.94 euros in the same day, you are entitled to a refund of 12% on the total amount of your purchase.

FLAGSHIP STORES MILAN | PIAZZA DUOMO • ROME | VIA DEL TRITONE

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F AT T O R I PIAZZA GERVASIO E PROTASIO N FASHION OUTLETS LU VIA GUIDO SPADOLINI LARGO DELLA LIBERTA’ T E DI SAN EOL NA E V I COVER IMAGE BY This month’s round-up of art R LEOPOLDO O & FACTORY STORES A R N O A MARTIRI N P IACOPINO V. S . PIAZZA E S I A DELLE NOBILI VIA P. CARNESECCHI Parrocchia dei V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS VIA V AI M GIOVANNI RDO DESIGN G 44 ESSENTIALS SS. Gervasio e Protasio VIALE CALATAFIMI VIA FRANCESCO NULLO VIA CARRARA VIA G. PAISIELLO FOIBE VIA LORENZO MAGNIFICO PIAZZA SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS A V IA C A S S IA I LE ANTONELLI PEOPLE AT V VIA GUGLIELMO MARCONI I VINCENZO V. C. DI BELGIOIOSO VIA D. 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MARCONI IR URNO O U NT Milan Milan Milan Milan Milan Milan Milan Milan V I A D E L T Milan C ELLIN Milan S E R ® ® ® ® ® ® ® ® ® ® A ELLATE VIA A.SQUARCIALUPI O VIA SAN GERVASIO InformationT and tips D’AO VIA GOFFREDO MAMELI VIA AURELIO SAFFI VIA C A P P PRAT IA NINO BIXIO VIA DELLE CENTO STELLE COVER ROZZI V VIA CAS PIAZZA SSANDRIA LUPI BO STA E N ChiesaGALLO di Sant'Agata V. VOL Chiesa San Jacopino VIA DEI CA V I The best fashion designers L A AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO A L 'A S R O E VIALE SPARTACO DLAVAGNINI A PIAZZA VASARI VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO N A U N I VI M V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O F I SAVONAROLA Palazzo Vecchio, the symbol of and music. AC A YOUR YOUR YOUR YOUR YOUR YOUR YOUR YOUR O VIA G. PAISIELLO VIA IO IL N www.wheremilan.com CITY www.wheremilan.com CITY CITY CITY CITY CITY www.wheremilan.com CITY www.wheremilan.com CITY VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI RI VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE to experience the Fortezza da Basso V GUIDE GUIDE GUIDE GUIDE GUIDE DESIGN WEEK GUIDE GUIDE GUIDE POG Giardino F CATERIN V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O O P VIA PIETRO MARONC The Saloni, Fuorisalone . A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O TO V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V VIA G. DOLFI GI A MARMORA N Campo Di R and lots more besides I S A A Marte 4-9 April Florence, with the Arnolfo Tower. I V I A C A V O E V V IA G U S T A V O Chiesa VIAPIO FEDI PIAZZA G ALL YOU 150 stores offering for your high-end PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E shopping. VIA DE D U Nostra Signora SO L Santi Fiorentini ALL YOU FOCUS ON discounts from 30% to 70% GOOD MORNING, MILANO ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E A TASTE Radio City comes to town I del Sacro Cuore O CAN DO WINTER SALES 30 minutes from Milan D Stadio 19-23 April Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI L VIA FONTEBUONI CAN DO NOTHING BUT O LE Comunale OF MILAN VIA ROSOLI E P P E S I R IN THE CITY best that Florence Franchi SHOWS & EVENTS MONTIGNANONOT JUST DESIGN, Photo © Shutterstock RUO M O F CHOCOLATE M Chiesa dei Sette Santi IN THE Top restaurants & BUT A STUNNING V. C. V IA V E N E Z IA D E N A A IUS ART & EVENTS trendy venues ACTION-PACKED MONTH! O VIA BARTOLOMMEI TE Giardino GIFT GUIDE 9-12 FEBRUARY VIA ALFON V. G. BENIVIENI CITY Arts, shopping VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N Salon du Chocolat and new openings L L A NEW OPENINGS Gift Guide V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE A VIA DELLA FORTEZZA VIA DEI SETTE SANTI BAMBINE E BAMBINI EGLI ARTISTI T V I A G WINE TIPS 14 FEBRUARY New openings C PIAZZA R Cimitero I Valentine’s Day O DI BESLAN V AI M has to offer.INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIE O della Misericordia GIFTPasserella dell'IsolottoGUIDE B B AI VIA D 13 S. Giovanni VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO 22-28 FEBRUARY V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N R dei Cavalieri ANTONIO MICHELI FASHION WEEK SHOWS & EVENTS Milano VIA MASSA A 21-27 SEPTEMBER Fashion Week ATELLO Giardino S A C C OI VL. T. MAMIANI FOCUS ON ALL YOU CAN DO R V AI M V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO NEW OPENINGS VIA SAN GALLO MITO MUSIC FESTIVAL SHOWS & EVENTS VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E I VIA CITTADELLA IN THE CITY DEL P THE ART OF THE BRICK VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI N V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I 3-22 SEPTEMBER I V O DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE Until 29 January 2017 GIFT GUIDE Giardino IA A FASHION OUTLETS V at the Fabbrica del Vapore VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI 30 LG. PORTA A RINASCENTE Take advantage of your stay di Valfonda N N E L L I NEW OPENINGS SERRAVALLE P SERRAVALLE STORIES OF INNOVATION LEOPOLDA ONTANELLI Teatro dell’Opera A D N O F L A V EI R C A P DESIGNER IV V M Giardino DESIGNER OUTLET BRERA, THE NEW SALON DU CHOCOLAT The brand's history is on show I A G U E L F A OUTLET V. MONZA Autumn collections Show this magazine dei Semplici PERFUME DISTRICT at Palazzo Reale A Z N E A F A at 30-70% less. Designer brands to get a 50% discount off VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO VIA GIAMBOLOGNA F1 GRAND PRIX ticket prices A Convento at 30%-70% less. MILANO, THE CITY T IA G.LA PIRA 2-4 SEPTEMBER In stores now. VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco ANTI VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA FASHION OUTLETS 50 new brands DINING AT THE TOP RA V Firenze Fiera San Giuliano F and new services. Blooming gardens, patios and Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPP P O O THAT NEVER SLEEPS V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Several of the best shopping REPA terraces for a gourmet experience Stazione Leopolda N I DISCOVER A WEALTH OF PORTA AL LO D O VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO L'ARCOLAIO in Florence to enjoy a pick L ENTERTAINMENT, DINING, V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I A LARGO L G E COVER IMAGE BY OUR PICK OF THE V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO SHOPPING, AND ART HOTTEST NEW OPENINGS Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE D LIVE DESIGN AT San Barnaba V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI PIAZZA IA SANTA SAN MARCO Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE V SAN VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI IA VIA SAN BARTOLOMEO SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS PIAZZA Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale V V AI M SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS COVER IMAGE BY ADUA SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I V AL GIGNORO EM U I F A I V IA D E L L E M IM O S E destinations not far Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno V IA G U E L F A PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa A WHERE MILAN JULY 2017 WHERE MILAN AUGUST 2017 WHERE MILAN SEPTEMBER 2017 WHERE MILAN OCTOBER 2017 NOVEMBER 2017 DECEMBER 2017 JANUARY 2018 MARCH 2018 APRIL 2018 of the best high-quality items.A R N O S A C C OI PROJECT PROJECT PROJECT PROJECT La SS. Annunziata VI WHERE MILAN WHERE MILAN WHERE MILAN WHERE MILAN WHERE MILAN WHERE MILAN San Jacopo di Ripoli DONATELLO VIALE MANFRE IS ENDORSED BY IS ENDORSED BY IS ENDORSED BY IS ENDORSED BY THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO PROJECT THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO PROJECT THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO PROJECT THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO PROJECT PROJECT THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO PROJECT THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO A IS ENDORSED BY IS ENDORSED BY IS ENDORSED BY IS ENDORSED BY IS ENDORSED BY IS ENDORSED BY di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI DEI FALC Milan Milan Milan Milan Milan Milan Milan Milan Milan Milan I Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V ® ® ® ® ® ® ® ® ® ® Chiesa NOR degli Inglesi V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Casa di Riposo PIAZZA episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia BORGO PINTI UCCI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO DE’GI V IA V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale Museo Archeologico V CENTRALE SANTISSIMA NTI V.Z VIA R AI L E M V.G.D.MONTORSOLI from Florence, offering D E ANNUNZIA ZINI VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZI STAY IN TOUCH VITTORIO VENETO Stazione Ferroviaria U V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze G L AZ Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA VIA DELL I Nelson Mandela Forum V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella I V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A A L F A N I P E M LI YOUR YOUR YOUR » OR A L T A VIA MORTULI Giardino VIA BENEDETTO VARCHI www.wheremilan.com www.wheremilan.com www.wheremilan.com www.wheremilan.com www.wheremilan.com www.wheremilan.com www.wheremilan.com www.wheremilan.com www.wheremilan.com IN CITY CITY CITY V AI S O L F E R NI O MAP PAGES’ 46-47SO ERVI Spedale degli Innocenti TI VIA DEL FRANCIABIGIO ARI GUIDE GUIDE GUIDE degli Orti Oricellari PIAZZA G A ’ S V I ENT V I A C A V O C VIA MILAZZO DELLA STAZIONE I I GAME VIA G. DA MONTORSOLI L A N O C E DE E R V AI O D EA www.whereitalia.com/florence . D WELCOME A COVERCIANO discounts year-round. VIA DEL CANTOB DEI NELLI VIA AUGUSTO NOVELLI OF THRONES VIALE GIUSEP V. DELLA RONDINELLA A BE COOL, Discover the regal side of Milan, V. DEGLI OLEANDRI VIA BERNARDO RUCELLAI VI A ALL YOU V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI MORTULI VIA Centro Lingustico M A S V. D. AZALEEV. D. L U N G A R N O D E L P I G N O N E TO MILANO terina da Palazzo VI INI from its spectacular castle SANT’AMBROGIO, a VI SOUND AND 14 .C iena Rotonda del Brunelleschi V I A D E L L A to its fascinating museums S a S Medici Riccardi O CAN DO NOT COLD! 150 stores offering d P. DI MADONNA Museo I DESIGN CITY V. D. ORTI ORICELLARI . C B O R G O P I N L V I A B . B A N D I N E L L I V C PIAZZA THE CITY IL QUINTO STATO discounts of from 30% to 70% VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O DEGLI Leonardo da Vinci A C VIALE MANFREDO FA L’ISOLOTTO V. ALL YOU R Basilica A V AI D E G L IA VIALE BERNARDO SEGNI IN THE CITY 20 REASONS MILANO, CITY OF MUSEUMS V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O P. DELL'UNITÀ ALDOBRANDINI PIAZZA L FILIPPO 30 minutes from Milan Download all issues DEGL L VIA BERTOLDO DI GIOVANNI C A

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VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA E Tempio Maggiore I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E DEL GIGNOR Stroll through the luxury capital The MITO SettembreMusica D Santommaso T LU CI A PI SERRAVALLE SERRAVALLE WOMEN WANT VIA BRONZINO DE V. A and discover the Tiffany House festival returns to Milan VI I Israelitico PIAZZA N N E L L I Loggia di San Paolo Palazzo D'aquino UC SERRAVALLE Milanese women share a bucket list A V VIA CAPO DI MONDO V. DESIGNER OUTLET in Piazza Duomo DESIGNER OUTLET Sinagoga D LLE BELLELLE DONNE VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI PE DEI Antinori HI Even more savings Discover a new style DESIGNER OUTLET of ‘girly’ things to do in town VIA DI MELEGNANO PIN R GUGLIELMO WOMEN’S FASHION WEEK VIALE ETRURIA V. B. FRANCESCHINI Ognissanti CELLANA V. CAMPANELLA VIA DEL MEZZETTA FIESOLA I VIALE ETRURIA Chiesa SC L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A R V. FRA' SARPI on outlet prices GIFT GUIDE at Serravalle Designer Outlet Even more savings Chiesa dei A 20-25 September V. DELL'ORIUOLO E P I IETTI VIA SANT'EGIDIO A restaurants has preserved its di San LE IL OBERDAN on outlet prices issuu.com/where-italia VIA I VIA PIETRO COLLETTA A pick of the best 20-26 February RESTAURANTS Santi Michele A global celebration of Italian style D VIA G. LEOPARDI PIAZZA OMA V P O CH AS VIA TITO SPERI Paolino EL A seasonal trends Milano Moda Donna fashion shows C V.CANONICA e Gaetano V ONA VIA GIOVANNI ANTONIO DOSIO DE E R T

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WELCOME TO THE ’ VIA All you can do TIS VIA DELL’ORTO Santa Trinita L VI V BORGO ALLEG artisan shops and nighlife. in several top hotels. FI BORGO DELLA STELLA BORGO SANTO SPIRITO VIN V IA D IS A N G IU S E P P E VIA DEI GEPP IOLI L LAND OF FASHION. F PIAZZA Palazzo E EGIA in the city and D U . V I A P I S A N A I I OVER 160 STORES WITH facebook.com/WhereFlorence Santo Stefano DEI MAC I love Gucciardini V d. MAGA All you can do in this city VIA DI SOFFIANO V I A D I M O N T E O L I V E T O . ALL YOU DISCOUNTS UP TO 70% OFF DEL CARMINE V RUSTICI its surroundings al Ponte A that’s (finally) open Torre degli Amidei PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA DEI N EI Palazzo della Missione Uzi VI PIAZZA DEL PESCE VIA GIRO DEL GRANO CHE VIA DELLE CASINE V I A A R E T I N A CAN DO Basilica di during the holidays LU O VIA D IA DEI BENCI V IA P IE T shopping VIA DOMENICO BURCHIELLO NG O V I N E I T I G DE' FRESCOBALDI Discover the LAMI NT E San Remigio BRA V Santa Croce di Firenze VIA SANTA MONACA Chiesa A RI VIA DELL'ORCAGNA V. GHERARDO STARNINA RNO NI A V I A F R A ' G I O V A N N I A N G E L I C O IN THE CITY Chiesa I A LLE V I A G I O V A N N I L A N Z A Lombardy San Jacopo AR GI N N A V O All you can do PIAZZALE DEGL E Golden Ponte Vecchio CH ELL Evangelica San Giuseppe D R T CH lakes and rivers 150 stores offering Palazzo IB VIA DE IA O VIA DEL GHIR in the city and USIERI S Metodista E T H O U A R A BORGO SAN IACOPOP.TTA DEGLI A RIA d. GU V Cappella Pazzi discounts from 30% to 70% VIA DELL'OLIVUZZO V C CA its surroundings VIA DEI SERRAGLI Macchiavelli IA DEL TE I N VIA DI CAMALDOLI Chiesa di A BORGO SANTA CROCE 30 minutes from Milan ANGIOLIERI I OS ERI LL Age V OS . M Santa Maria del Carmine A MAFFIA V All you can do VIA SANT’AGOSTINO I LO SP VIA DEI SAPONAI E VIA LATI VIA DI ROCCA TEDAL DA Keep up-to-date V VIA DEI VAGELLAI DE I N V I A D E I M A L C O N T E N T I I in the city during Follow us on Instagram VIA DEL LEONE PIAZZA Parrocchiale S. Antonino A Bellariva INGHETTI

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A1 AUTOSTRADA DEL SOLE YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® [ SIGHTSEEING] WELCOME TO ITALY ® MORE AT PAGE 40 whereMAGAZINE Florence www.whereitalia.com/florence MAP PAGES ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO Top in town 46-47 PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. 1 3 T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing [email protected] with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary www.whereitalia.com/florence PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who Andrea Jarach more than any other represents Italy throughout [email protected]) the world. Andrea Jarach EDITORIAL Publisher Several cities including Milan, Florence and Rome MANAGING DIRECTOR Where® will host a series of special events. The full program Daniele Misrachi of Italian exhibitions and events honouring ([email protected]) Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. MANAGING EDITOR Alessandra Finzi We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person ([email protected])

considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. CONTRIBUTORS While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given Carey Bernitz, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Language Consulting birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, Congressi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli 6 2 and political facets of European life from the fifteenth century. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY medicine and art. City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Fast Trains Network Map: Dmitry Goloub - © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. MARKETING & ADVERTISING If you happen to find them, please share your comments, with your Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni photo, on our social media. By the end of the year, we’d like to collect ([email protected])

a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting! ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto ([email protected])

PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION,

SALES SUPPORT MANAGER SHUTTERSTOCK LEONARDO MUSEUMS IN TUSCANY Paola Grilli ([email protected])

In the area of Vinci, the town of Leonardo’s birth (1 hour from Florence), two new HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER PHOTOS © museums promote the figure of the Tuscan genius: the “Museo Ideale Leonardo da Maria Granata ([email protected]) Vinci”and the “Museo Leonardo e il Rinascimento del Vino”. The first documents DUOMO AND CUPOLA seat of civil power and social heart of the PONTE VECCHIO the figure of the artist, scientist, inventor and designer with archive documents and CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the The official date of foundation of the current a selection of artworks from the 16th century to the new international avant-gardes. ([email protected]) in Florence was the largest Christian church seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire The second, on the other hand, at Villa da Vinci, in the historic sixteenth-century in the world. Today the religious building, the the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, REG. TRIB. MILANO No.156 DEL 10/05/2018 estate surrounded by vineyards belonging to Leonardo’s family, looks into a novel EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH aspect of the Genius: his authentic relationship with the world of agriculture, the PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) territory, foods and wine. An initiative that is part of wide-ranging cultural project dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. prominent in the square are the Fountain of At the end of the 16th century, however, Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in entitled “Leonardo Genio del Vino”. www.leonardodavinci.it the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Neptune and a series of statues of when it became the “noble” zone of the city, apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, Renaissance origin, representing one of the the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, The Gioconda Nuda Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the 1 information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences is a symbol known all over the world. most important sculptural cycles in the and they have been there uninterruptedly (Nude Mona Lisa), a arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. world. The most famous is certainly to this day. 5 work the attribution CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS of which to Leonardo 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the whereas the original is conserved in the PALAZZO PITTI WHERE® FLORENCE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI FIRENZE is highly doubtful, and WHERE® FLORENCE IS AVAILABLE IN FLORENCE’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main Galleria dell’Accademia). 3 AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION Bacco Fanciullo (The components of the complex of Santa Maria The symbol of wealth and power, the Boy Bacchus) by Guido del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI building was inhabited by the Medici, then Reni are among the works marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, One of the most famous museums by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the on display at the Museo designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by in the world on account of its extraordinary Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. Ideale Leonardo da Vinci, Where® magazine climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, collections of ancient sculptures and The original architecture dates back to the and the where® together with archive logo are registered from where you can enjoy extraordinary views paintings (from the Middle Ages to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its documents, finds and MVP trademarks of Morris 2 Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications. of Brunelleschi’s Dome. modern age). first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, works by the protagonists MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS The Gallery occupies the first and second at the foot of Boboli Hill. of the new international MVP EXECUTIVE PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA floors of the large building erected between The Boboli Gardens are one of the most avant-gardes. CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III AND PALAZZO VECCHIO 1560 and 1580 based on a project by important examples of Italian-style gardens PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV This is the central square of Florence, the Giorgio Vasari 4 in the world. 6 MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

4 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 5 WHERE NOW | LANDMARK PIAZZA SANTA CROCE

Eternal fascination

The large Piazza Santa Croce is one of the main squares of the historic centre of Florence and over time it has become one of the nerve centres of Florentine cultural and commercial life. It has long been the theatre for the city’s festivals, meetings and celebrations, and in the 15th century it hosted jousts and tournaments on horseback.

Facing onto it are the splendid Basilica of Santa Croce and a number of prestigious residences, including Palazzo Cocchi Serristori and Palazzo dell’Antella.

Completed in 1320, the Franciscan church quickly became the sacred place that noble and illustrious Florentines yearned to have as their final resting place: Dante Alighieri, Galileo Galilei, Michelangelo Buonarroti, Niccolò Macchiavelli, Ugo Foscolo and Vittorio Alfieri, to mention just a few.

Don’t miss a visit to the Bell Tower, the Sacristy with the famous Crucifix of Cimabue and the Medici Chapel, the Cloisters, the Pazzi Chapel, the Museum and the Basement (www.santacroceopera.it).

Since the end of the 15th century, the matches of Calcio Storico Fiorentino have been held in the square and a marble circle has been placed on both Palazzo dell’Antella and the building opposite to indicate the half-way line of the pitch.

On 14 May 1865, on the occasion of the fifth centenary of poet Dante Alighieri’s birth, a monument dedicated to him was positioned in the centre of the square, but the monument has been removed and moved to its current position on the parvis of the church to enable the Calcio in Costume matches to take place. TRUBA7113 / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

6 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 7 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-FLORENCE

EXHIBITION

ICON OF THE AVANT-GARDES ▼ A major retrospective 28 12 at Palazzo Strozzi tells SEPTEMBER JANUARY all about the talented, 2019 2020 multi-faceted Natalia Goncharova, an extraordinary female figure of the artistic avant-garde of the early 20th century, who lived for her art in a total, non-conformist way. Here her production is placed in comparison with works by famous artists who were points of reference for her, such as Paul Gauguin, Henri Matisse, Pablo Picasso and Umberto Boccioni.

Natalia Goncharova. A woman of the Avant-garde with Gauguin, Matisse and Picasso Palazzo Strozzi. Piazza Strozzi – www.palazzostrozzi.org

NOVEMBER Left: Paul Cézanne, The Gardener Vallier (c.1906). © Tate, London (2019). From the top: Umberto Boccioni, Study for the City Rises (1910). © Estorick Collection, London, UK / Bridgeman Imag. Natalia Goncharova, Void (1913). Moscow, State Tretyakov Gallery, ZH-1543. Bequeathed by A.K. Larionova Tomilina, Paris 1989. © Natalia Goncharova, by SIAE 2019. Mikhail Larionov, Portrait of Natalia Goncharova (1915). Moscow, State Tretyakov Gallery, GR-2451. Presented Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting by V. Moritz, 1961. Moscow. © Mikhail Larionov, an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA by SIAE 2019. Lucio Fontana, Concetto Spaziale (1964-65), Private Collection. 8 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 Dickinson Private Advisors & Fine Art Dealers WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-FLORENCE

INSTALLATION CONTEMPORARY ART LEONARDO

THE MYTH OF 5 30 27 16 PERPETUAL MOTION OCTOBER DECEMBER SEPTEMBER JANUARY The idea of reproducing the perpetual 2019 2020 10 12 motion of the celestial spheres OCTOBER JANUARY 2019 2020 with mechanical devices has always IMMERSION IN MYTH CONCEPTUAL DUEL stimulated the imagination of ◄ A dream-like trip into the biblical ▼ Chinese artist Wang Yuyang (Harbin, 1979), with his technicians, engineers and natural philosophers alike. Leonardo too myths: Nephilìm, an immersive first solo exhibition in Europe, is the protagonist of the (obviously) devoted various spectacular drawings to this, and these are on exhibition-installation by artist sixth appointment of the Duel cycle, which sees artists display here together with models of some of the most intriguing of those and composer Yuval Avital, brings active on the international scene creating site-specific devices and accompanied by impressive films to illustrate how they are together 24 of the greatest Tuscan interventions inspired by the collection of the Museo presumed to have worked, also thanks to augmented reality experiences. master craftsmen in the creation of a Novecento. In this case three cycles of paintings and LEONARDO DA VINCI E IL MOTO PERPETUO multitude of sonic masks. Angelic two light installations by Wang are placed alongside a Museo Galileo. Piazza dei Giudici 1 and demonic masks, artisan skills Still Life (1923-24) by Giorgio Morandi. www.museogalileo.it and new technologies create Wang Yuyang. Lucciole per lanterne

a multisensory itinerary that is Museo Novecento. Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 10 experienced by walking, sitting and www.museonovecento.it lying down in the evocative ancient crypt of the Marino Marini Museum. Nephilìm. Una moltitudine di maschere sonore Museo Marino Marini di Firenze. Lorenzo Viani, Inglesi a Bagni di Lucca Piazza San Pancrazio www.museomarinomarini.it

Above. The Moon, 2019. Below: artworks by Wang Yuyang in dialogue with a Still Life by Giorgio Morandi.

MUSIC

A BRILLIANT QUARTET ► The Amici della Musica di Firenze are one of the most ancient and prestigious 10 players on the concert scene in f. 1062v (1493-1495). Italy, who organise concert Leonardo da Vinci, Ruota perpetua idromeccanica , from the Codex Atlanticus, NOVEMBER performances (from chamber music to contemporary musical expressions, from orchestral performances to solo pieces, from jazz to traditional music) in the PASSION RUN ancient Teatro della Pergola. On Sunday 10 November it is the turn of the Takács Quartet, who are famous for the vitality of A RACE THROUGH BEAUTY This is the second most important marathon race in Italy (after the Rome their interpretations. In the programme are ► Marathon) and it is among the top 20 in the world in terms of popularity and pieces by Joseph Haydn, Béla Bartók and 24 number of participants: in its much vaunted 42 km, the Florence Marathon crosses Felix Mendelssohn. NOVEMBER the entire historic centre, passing by some of the most beautiful and charming sites Takács Quartet. Il mondo del quartetto in Florence. Along the route, to give the right energy boost as the runners pass by, are Teatro della Pergola. Via della Pergola, 30 the participants in the Huawei Firenze Marathon Clap Contest: musicians of all kinds and street artists. Asics Firenze Marathon 2019 www.amicimusicafirenze.it The race is preceded by two days of events in the Marathon Expo, at Stazione Leopolda, a genuine Start and finish in Piazza Duomo fair of fitness and wellbeing involving the whole city (22-23 November, 9.30am-8pm). www.firenzemarathon.it

10 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 11 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

TRADITIONAL EVENTS IN FLORENCE

6 JANUARY 1 MAY 26 JULY ◄ BRUNELLO CUCINELLI The iconic model of the Brunello CAVALCATA DEI MAGI TROFEO MARZOCCO-SBANDIERATORI FESTA DI SANT’ANNA GIFT Cucinelli sports line uses precious A historical re-enactment of the Epiphany A contest between historical groups of A secular and religious festival held near materials to create sophisticated when Three Wise Men brought gifts the church of Orsanmichele, in which the flag-wavers organized by the “Bandierai combinations. The soft washed of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the degli Uffizi di Firenze”, which takes place figure of Saint Anne, co-patron saint of the chamois upper is combined with Baby Jesus. A celebration that takes in Piazza della Signoria. city, is venerated. GUIDE semi-gloss calfskin details. place wearing splendid fifteenth-century costumes. www.brunellocucinelli.com THIRD SUNDAY IN MAY 10 AUGUST We’ve compiled a short PALIO DEL BALUARDO FESTA DI SAN LORENZO guide offering ideas for A crossbow shooting competition to It takes place in the morning with a him and for her. A great commemorate the birth of the Florentine “Historical Procession of the Florentine opportunity to spend some Republic on 16th May 1527, the date when Republic” from the Piazzetta di Parte Guelfa the Medici were expelled from Florence. through the streets of the historic centre to pleasant moments browsing The competition is held at the Bastione the Basilica di San Lorenzo. In the evening, the boutiques in the centre known as the Fonte della Ginevra. in Piazza San Lorenzo. of Florence, while enjoying ► ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ its beauties. The highly elegant ‘Alabastro’ line 23 MAY END OF SEPTEMBER came about as a personal dedication

ELENA.KATKOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ELENA.KATKOVA by Florentine designer Angela Caputi LA FIORITA BACCO ARTIGIANO to Russian artist Natalia Goncharova, A Florentine tradition celebrating the A traditional Festival of Wine and the the extraordinary female figure PHOTO © burning at the stake of Dominican preacher outstanding products of the territory. of 20th-century art who is being CAVALCATA DEI MAGI Concomitant entertainment events are Fra Girolamo Savonarola, a controversial celebrated in the exhibition over also held to mark the occasion. figure in the city’s history. A wreath of the coming months at Palazzo Strozzi. flowers is laid on the plaque dedicated to www.angelacaputi.com 18 FEBRUARY him in Piazza della Signoria, after which ANNIVERSARY OF THE DEATH OF THE rose petals are thrown into the Arno from ◄ OFFICINE PANERAI ELECTRESS OF THE PALATINATE Ponte Vecchio. ‘Radiomir’ watches mirror the Panerai Celebration of the last heir of the Medici technical excellence. Many of the dynasty, Anna Maria Luisa: the presence in characteristics of the original model Florence of extraordinary artistic treasures 24 JUNE are conserved: the large steel case including the Uffizi Gallery, the Palatine with cushion shape, luminescent Gallery and the Gallery of the Academy FESTA DI SAN GIOVANNI and FINALE DEL CALCIO STORICO numbers and hour-markers and is all due to her. To mark the occasion, hand-wound mechanical movement.

some municipal museums allow access SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ▼VILLA DA VINCI A contest that has taken place in Piazza www.panerai.com free of charge. Santa Croce for 600 years on the day of From the meticulous selection of St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of the best grape bunches, cultivated the city. Highly competitive, it combines PHOTO © and picked in the vineyards of 25 MARCH football, rugby and wrestling and is held as FESTA DI SAN LORENZO the Vinci area, wines are created the culmination of a tournament between CAPODANNO FIORENTINO following the exclusive and secret teams from the city’s neighbourhoods: The Florentine “Old New Year”, celebrated Metodo Leonardo® and produced White from Santo Spirito, Red from Santa 8 OCTOBER since before the advent of the Gregorian by Leonardo da Vinci S.p.A. Maria Novella, Green from San Giovanni Calendar (1582), with a parade through FESTA DI SANTA REPARATA www.leonardodavinci.it and Blue from Santa Croce. the central streets of the city in historical At Santa Maria del Fiore each year the costumes. ceremony is held of the offering of candles in the crypt. According to the legend it ► IL BISONTE was thanks to the miraculous intercession The ‘New Icon’ cowhide leather EASTER of Saint Reparata that the Florentines shopping bag is a unique succeeded in repelling the siege of the high-quality hand-crafted SCOPPIO DEL CARRO Ostrogoths in 406 AD, an event that marked accessory to complete A popular secular and religious the triumph of Christianity in Florence. tradition that dates back to the time the feminine style. Available of the Crusades. A procession with in nine different colour tones. percussionists and flag-wavers in END OF DECEMBER www.ilbisonte.com historical costumes, city officials and representatives of the clergy, FESTA DEGLI OMAGGI accompanies a cart with a pyrotechnic An ancient folkloristic event in which the tower from the church of SS. Apostoli “Procession of the Florentine Republic” to Santa Maria del Fiore, where it is addresses the civil and religious authorities set alight. CALCIO STORICO to wish them good luck during the festivities.

12 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 13 WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS Sant’Ambrogio, the food district The district where Michelangelo lived, right in the heart of Florence, which is famous for the food market of the same name and its many typical restaurants, has succeeded in preserving its popular side, making traditions and craftsmanship its forte.

BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

Cibrèo Ristorante

L’Ortone Caffè Letterario Le Murate 14 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

n the shadow of the nearby and greengrocers, pasta makers and bakers. There are perhaps more famous district of also places to stop and eat: the tripe vendor, who Santa Croce, Sant’Ambrogio has serves Florentine specialities from the local farms, always been a lively popular such as sandwiches with lampredotto, stew and neighbourhood. Here, even today, cheek, as well as tripe alla Fiorentina, and the despite the rampant gentrification, “Da Rocco” trattoria, where you can take a the true life of Florence takes centre stage, seat and try ribollita, trippa, panzanella and first with the tastes, sounds and colours of the courses from the Italian tradition Ifood, wine and hand crafting traditions. (www.mercatosantambrogio.it). Even though under pressure from tourism, it is If, on the other hand, you prefer to sit still regularly visited by Florentines, who meet comfortably “with your legs under the table”, as up in Piazza Ghiberti, the genuine centre of the evocative Italian saying goes, then you are the neighbourhood, which extends as far as spoiled for choice. The area around Via de’ Macci Largo Annigoni and Piazza dei Ciompi with its and Via Andrea del Verrocchio, near the market, Loggia del Pesce. Let us tell you how people could easily be defined as the Cibrèo District. live in this part of Florence, with its landmarks Cibrèo is a dish from the Tuscan tradition, but for fine food, charming churches, noble in Florence and around these streets, it is now palaces, artisan shops and night life, a melting a trademark for eating well. When, in 1979, the Casa Buonarroti Church of Sant’Ambrogio Loggia del Pesce pot of the traditional and the contemporary, eclectic Fabio Picchi opened his first restaurant / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MURATART / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ZVONIMIR ATLETIC MAU47 / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM where it is undoubtedly well worth stopping here, he probably did not imagine that in was not born here, but in the province of miss taking a glance at the workshop of Cecilia and taking in the sights, sounds and smells. around 40 years he would have practically square of the same name, has been enlivening worth a visit. Its most precious decorations are colonised the entire district, even becoming a the neighbourhood for over 25 years now. You Arezzo, and this was not his only residence conserved today in the Uffizi, but it remains one Falciai, who specialises in working scagliola and genuine “partisan of Tuscanness” (even though, can stop there for a coffee and a croissant in the in the city, but it was chosen as a museum, of the churches with the richest history and in the technique of Florentine mosaic-making Food for all tastes in reality – as we will see – he certainly does morning or for a tasty lunch at midday, but it monument and place of celebration of his atmosphere in the city. Among the oldest places (commesso) using semi-precious stones and presents itself best for aperitifs, when it becomes genius. Casa Buonarroti offers the excitement of worship in Florence, it would appear that it marble. She makes table tops, panels and In recent years, with the restoration and not disdain culinary contaminations). Today the neighbourhood’s “place to be”. Its plus points of admiring two marble reliefs, masterpieces was erected in the 6th century as a chapel of a pictures and her laboratory is a space open to rediscovery of the Market of Sant’Ambrogio, the Picchi family possesses four eateries along are the over 64 labels of wine and cocktails of Michelangelo’s youth: the Madonna della nearby convent of Benedictine nuns, near the whoever wants to see what this trade consists of the district of the same name has become an these streets: the Ristorante (the first, historical served, including Martini cocktail, a genuine Scala, the testimony of his enthusiastic study of site where Saint Ambrose stayed in around 403. from close up (www.ceciliafalciaiscagliola.com). interesting social and gastronomic melting premises), the Trattoria, the Caffè and the new speciality, accompanied by an abundant buffet Donatello, and the Battle of the Centaurs, a sign At that time this zone was outside the city walls, In Via Sant’Egidio, on the other hand, the historic pot, with heterogeneous, affordable food Ciblèo (which offers fusion cuisine). In addition selection (www.santambrogiobistro.it). of the artist’s love for classical art. The museum in open countryside. A multi-coloured terracotta shop Sbigoli Terrecotte offers a vast range of for all tastes. Sant’Ambrogio is a historic local to these, there is an organic shop and the Teatro This district will also be enjoyable for vegans: holds the most extensive collection in the world tabernacle by Giovanni Della Robbia on one side artistic ceramics, entirely made and decorated market, which is distinguished from other similar del Sale, a cultural association where you need in Piazza dei Ciompi, in fact, the Universo of drawings by Michelangelo and his school of the square portrays the saint blessing passers- by hand, following the Tuscan handicraft situations with a more international vocation a membership card to enter, and where you can Vegano offers specialties such as desserts, (www.casabuonarroti.it). by. Reconstructed in the 13th century and tradition of majolica, in other words, terracotta (such as the Central Market, for example) on listen to music or watch a theatre production pizzas and vegan burgers (www.facebook. From here, continuing straight on along Via restructured in the 15th, the church underwent enamelled with medieval and Renaissance account of its neighbourhood atmosphere and while you dine (www.cibreo.com). com/universoveganofirenze). To conclude the Buonarroti, we reach Piazza dei Ciompi, new interventions by Giovan Battista Foggini in decorations, but with more modern influences. because it is here that Florentines themselves A few steps from the Market of Sant’Ambrogio evening pleasantly, you could do worse than where the so-called Loggia del Pesce, a the 18th century. Today, thanks to the numerous Here you can find everything do their shopping. Located in Piazza Lorenzo there is another restaurant that is well worth going to the Caffè Letterario Le Murate, a sixteenth-century structure originally erected bars and restaurants that look onto it, the square from tableware complete Ghiberti, it is held every morning, partly outdoors visiting: L’Ortone. The cuisine is typically Tuscan, Sbigoli Terrecotte former cloistered convent and then a prison, by Giorgio Vasari in the Mercato Vecchio, which is a nighttime meeting place, as are the nearby with all the accessories to and partly indoors, inside a building from 1873 following the changing seasons and interpreting which has been restored and transformed is in the current Piazza della Repubblica, was Via Pietrapiana, Via de’ Macci and Piazza Ghiberti. pottery for cooking and made of masonry, pure iron and cast iron. While the recipes of the tradition in a contemporary following a project by Renzo Piano. Today it is the reconstructed in the 1950s. In 1899, with the furnishing objects such as outside you can also find clothing stalls, the way. Nevertheless, the protagonists remain site of one of the best loved places in Florence, renovation of the city with a view to making it decorative wall plates, inside is totally devoted to food, with butchers, grilled meat and good wine (www.lortone.it). where, along with temporary art exhibitions, the Capital of Italy, the demolition of the zone And… a little shopping lamps, flowerpots, fishmongers, salami vendors, cheese vendors, The Enoteca Caffè Sant’Ambrogio, in the installations, workshops and open-air concerts, of the old market was completed and the best A few steps from the market of Sant’Ambrogio, nameplates, panels you can also taste a vast selection of drinks, conserved parts of the Loggia del Pesce were you can lose yourself among the stalls of and tiles. (www. Market of Sant’Ambrogio wines and food. A genuine workshop of deposited in the Museum of San Marco. It another small yet iconic Florentine market, sbigoliterrecotte.it). creativity, with particular attention devoted to was only reconstructed in 1955, in the current the flea market. Traditionally located in Piazza Finally, if you the languages of the contemporary world Piazza dei Ciompi. The loggia consists of a dei Ciompi, a couple of years ago it moved to want to bring and experimentation (www.lemurate.it). double row of nine arcades Largo Annigoni. Here you can find antique home some And if you are passionate about rum, on pillars and Tuscan order items, prints, jewellery, second-hand books, souvenirs… all to you can find this too at Sant’Ambrogio: at columns, and the façades articles for the home, paintings and coins. It eat, then stop off the scenic Cafè 19.26 they will help you find are decorated with tondi is well worth a walk around, even if only to at the Leonardo your way around over 380 labels from the depicting various kinds of immerse yourself for a few minutes in an Italy bakery and hand- Caribbean Sea (cafe1926firenze.com). fishes. Eight medallions on that has now disappeared. If you love leather made biscuit each side recall the sea, accessories then you must not miss Cuore di factory. Here, in the fishing and the related pelle, a small artisan shop located between the laboratory and in full Culture activities, in tune with Synagogue and Piazza Sant’Ambrogio. Here you view, the methods and We begin our tour in Via Ghibellina, on the the monument’s original can buy bracelets, belts, bags, passport holders, products of yesteryear are boundary between the districts of function. Not too far from brush holders, bottle holders, wallets and plenty used to bake bread, Tuscan Sant’Ambrogio and Santa Croce. here, in the square of the more besides, all obviously made of hand- schiacciata and cantuccini in Here we find Casa Buonarroti. same name, the Church sewn leather (www.cuordipelle.com). In Via various flavours every day In fact Michelangelo Buonarroti of Sant’Ambrogio is well De’ Macci, towards Santa Croce, you must not (www.leonardofirenze.it). KIEV.VICTOR / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM KIEV.VICTOR Leonardo 16 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 17 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century Palazzo Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical

Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied SONGQUAN DENG / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM fruit and pepper. And a few kilometres from Siena, another Lucca, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro PHOTO © town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces characteristic medieval architecture. It is the Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque unmissable San Gimignano, situated in the love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the medieval towns and culinary festivals. heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking small town of Settignano. round this small town, the 13th/14th-century The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for TUSCANY BIKING appearance of which is still practically its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, Would you like to discover the area around unchanged, is almost like going back in time. olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, Florence from a different perspective, more

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM San Gimignano is famous above all for its is around half an hour by car from the centre of on a human scale and in contact with medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. one time and today are just fifteen, including between September and November you can Pedalling along the romantic olive groves,

Siena city panoramic skyline, countryside and rolling hills in a misty day. PHOTO © some in ruins and without their tops but still witness two key events for the economy vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, visible as part of the urban fabric. and culture of the territory: the harvesting taking in the perfumes and colours of the of grapes and olives. Tuscan countryside in ways that would the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move otherwise be impossible. After the effort of Renaissance squares and buildings and Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest Roman amphitheatres. and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, the Crete Senesi. Located in the area south- and refreshment with visits to wine cellars Nature and art The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also both on foot and on the numerous buses east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local be easily reached from Florence in about departing from the city centre. Over the years of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments. specialities. If you are not particularly sporty an hour by train. Loved by tourists from the hill of Fiesole has been the source of These bare, softly undulating hills, with their but would still like to visit the outskirts of If Florence offers tourists f you choose Florence as your base, all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar Florence from this unique perspective, then the good news is that around an hour Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this appearance, are dotted with cypresses and you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that an unrivalled cultural and away by train, bus or car you will find the Cathedral, which stands in a unique privileged observatory, dotted with villas, farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly historical heritage, its UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy monumental context, declared a UNESCO museums, archaeological excavations, churches of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far less tiring. Ask your concierge. surrounding area no less so. countryside, natural thermal springs, World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. medieval towns and abbeys and Once you’ve completed your visit to this Here are some suggestions kilometresI of coastline for bathers. unbelievable square, if you have a little time for trips outside the city that left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno are able to satisfy any need. CITIES OF ART to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing For more details ask right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, your concierge. from the Tuscan regional capital there are with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today architectural wonders that will catapult you houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. the most prestigious universities in the world. About an hour by train from Florence is With a brief trip by coach from Florence you Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval historic centres, surrounded by ancient centres in Italy, which is also included on 16th-century walls, today still practically fully the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s intact and walkable in their entirely. You can nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a renowned for its unique shell shape, for its

tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the architectural integrity, and because twice a SHUTTERSTOCK.COM SHUTTERSTOCK.COM benches. The picturesque historic centre has year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio

remained almost intact, including countless di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental Fiesole, Roman Theatre PHOTO © PHOTO © medieval churches, which have earned Lucca importance for the Sienese, which sees the

18 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 19 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE CLOTHING & W The Guidelines M H E O This directory, grouped by category, is a list of R . C ACCESSORIES E R Signed T R A V E L E establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. Angela Caputi Giuggiù The boutique offers an extraordinary selection by Giuggiù MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold of clothing items for every type of woman. In at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the addition, hats, bags and other accessories from coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist and designer Angela Caputi chooses these SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from articles personally to combine with and complete 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open on Sundays (except those located in central Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Florence) and on Monday mornings. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4 Ask your concierge. Anichini Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children generally included in the price of goods. where skilled artisan hands create elegant items for newborns, children and youngsters using the TAX-FREE SHOPPING best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, and exported from the EU: before finalizing located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat whether they are eligible for a tax refund. 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3 UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 Aspesi e-mail: [email protected] The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran UnionPay is an international bankcard association Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, based in China and serves the world’s largest elegant details and natural materials. His current cardholder base. With more than 7 billion collections are still based on the original “no frills” cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their the mayor payment method of the outbound outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. The highly elegant “Alabastro” line payment, among which 9,000 merchants are T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm- located in Florence. This allows hundred of 7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, came about as a personal dedication by

GUGLIELMO DE’ MICHELI FOR SALVATORE FERRAGAMO GUGLIELMO DE’ MICHELI FOR SALVATORE thousands of affluent Chinese customers to 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 Florentine designer Angela Caputi to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also Brunello Cucinelli Russian artist Natalia Goncharova, the actively work with famous retail groups, such The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed extraordinary female figure of 20th- PHOTO © as the Rinascente department stores, The up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian century art who is being celebrated in Mall, SINA hotels, Aspesi fashion boutiques, to craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in provide special discount or services for UnionPay Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder the exhibition at Palazzo Strozzi “Natalia cardholders. Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the Goncharova una donna e le avanguardie production of high-quality cashmere knitwear DINING tra Gauguin, Matisse e Picasso” (Natalia and today boasts top-level production with total Reservations for most restaurants are strongly Goncharova a woman and the avant- The Ferragamo creative universe look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is advised. In Italy, service is included in the gardes including Gauguin, Matisse and seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its price meaning that although tipping is not At Palazzo Spini Feroni lies the heart of the creativity of Salvatore Ferragamo. The space hosts a historic support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, Picasso) until 12 January 2020. compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as defining itself as “a humanistic company”. It was precisely by the extraordinariness museum and the Flagship Store, where you can purchase the brand’s new collections. By Giulia Minero a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. the word “coperto”, a small surcharge of this woman, a leader of the Russian Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3 corresponding to the cost of the service and avant-garde, by her strength and her n Via de’ Tornabuoni the past and present continually in dialogue with each other. A bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, Elena Mirò capacity to break down the barriers semiformal clothing is usually considered de of the Salvatore Ferragamo fashion special corner of the store, in fact, is reserved An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy between art and design, that the stylist rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been I house come together. In fact, the ground for the Ferragamo’s Creations corner where are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that was inspired in her new “Alabastro” floor of an elegant medieval building is the site it is possible to purchase a selection of faithful area is specifically offered. enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, jewellery collection. The distinctive of the Flagship Store, where, surrounded by reissues of models of shoes designed by Set meals: prices are per person and usually refined and ever new style. From dresses to features of Goncharova’s works are to ancient exposed vaults and original decorative Salvatore Ferragamo between 1927 and refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). outerwear, from trousers to accessories, to be found in this collection: the almost € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / beachwear, the brand expresses the pleasure elements, lovers of shopping can discover 1960, the prototypes of which are part of the abstract geometrical forms of blood red, €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. of dressing a woman’s shape with style. www. all the brand’s new collections, including Museum’s historical archive of 14,000 pairs elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; alabaster and purple amethyst create a bags, footwear, ready-to-wear for him and of shoes. The symbol of stylistic research, the SIGHTSEEING Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 unique combination of fashion, design The information provided on museums and 2657725. Map F3 for her, small leather goods, perfumes and study of alternative materials of natural origin and art. In the collection we also find monuments is verified as meticulously as sunglasses. The basement of the building, on and from recycling, Salvatore Ferragamo’s Giovanni Raspini a clear reference, in its forms and colours, possible. However, data such as telephone In the beating heart of the fashion district, the the other hand, is occupied by the Salvatore creations are the expression of artisan mastery numbers, opening hours, prices and the to Italian Futurism, which marked a boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in Ferragamo Museum, a tribute to the history of and Florentine creativity. accessibility of sites are all subject to change, period of considerable transformation in Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration the company, its founder and its creations, and www.ferragamo.com a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized the artistic, political and social world of FABIO GAMBINA FABIO work, museum loans or changes it is also the venue for temporary exhibitions. >> Flagship Store Salvatore Ferragamo layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands the time. www.angelacaputi.com of management. Ask your concierge. The Salvatore Ferragamo Museum and the Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4r/14r T: 055 292123. out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality, often animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited Flagship Store are two environments that are Map E4. www.ferragamo.com PHOTO ©

20 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 21 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Top Brands

ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. www.albertaferretti.com. c/o Spazio A. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. New CHANEL palette of 4 eye shadows, Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. with a formula combining softness and ease of application. Rossa, 107/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4 Map E3 T: 055 212995. Map E4 CHANEL—www.chanel.com. MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am- Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. T: 055 214133. The wool and silk jacquard wrap-around shawl, Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. 2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun embellished by an iconic Paisley pattern, T: 055 292123. Map E4 Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. T: 055 287761. supplements the ETRO textile collection. 85. T: 055 287987. Men Open 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map F3 Map F3 STEFANO RICCI— Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat www.stefanoricci.com. 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Open GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Porta Rossa, 51/r. Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am- Palazzo Tornabuoni - T: 055 287931. Map E4 de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 2670157. Map E4 • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. T: 055 290284. Map F3 T: 055 210856. Map F3 BALENCIAGA—www. T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open balenciaga.com. DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 MISSONI—www.misson.com. SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ 75927010. Map F4 Open daily 10am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E3 Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. Sun 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 9040090. Map E4 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. T: 055 215774. Map F4 Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. T: 055 216227. DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Open daily Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Map F3 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi. 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. com. T: 055 2669101. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues- HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am- DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; T: 055 2608931. Map F3 Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. 1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via della Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3 Vigna Nuova, 27/r. 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open T: 055 2741013. Map E3 MONCLER—www.moncler.com. daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 18/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. T: 055 219179. Map E3 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. BORSALINO—www.borsalino. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Map E3 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. com. EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72/r. Map E4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Porta Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via T: 055 294909. Map F4 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. Rossa, 40/r. T: 055 218275. Map F4 de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. Map Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. E4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Map E3 com. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; T: 055 2398688. Map E4 POMELLATO—www. pomellato.com. Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 1pm-7pm. Map E3 T: 055 264254. Map E3 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91/r. T: 055 288539. Map E3 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via della PRADA—www. prada.com. 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. Vigna Nuova, 50/r. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3 T: 055 2670086. Map D3 T: 055 286035. • Open daily 10am-7pm. BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. T: 055 267471 Map E3 T: 055 2396786. Map E4 T: 055 212305 Map E3 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- Open daily 10am-7pm. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. 7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-45/r. Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. T: 055 293811. (corner of piazza della Signoria). T: 055 9040100. Map E3 Map E4 T: 055 2382883. Map F4

GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- 2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. T: 055 219041. Map E3

Details inspired by equestrianism are found in BURBERRY’S ready-to-wear clothing with For him, the HUGO BOSS clutch bag made of Italian hi-tech Perfect for this season, the elegant ERMENEGILDO clean lines, and in the accessories, such as the leather boots with studs decorated fabric is fitted with contrasting stays for a perfect fit. ZEGNA brown shearling blouson is fitted with a zip. with monograms. For a woman with a classic elegance.

22 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 23 SHOPPING SHOPPING

Richard Ginori 1735 Giumella over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, Tradition and excellence in the high-quality artistic VEGAN With recipes based on the products of the unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for rings, manufacture of porcelain. The Richard Ginori “artistic Florentine countryside, this delicatessen offers organic necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often drawing factory”, of 18th-century origin, still produces zero miles food, made the same day. Recipes with inspiration from nature and the floral world. www. accessories for the table and living room and works cereals and legumes, seeds and seasonal products. annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues- of art in its Doccia Factory (20 km from Florence) Among the specialties: reseitan – stone-ground Tuscan Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12/r. using ancient working techniques. Italian style and durum wheat semolina with water, salt and lentils – plus T: 055 2608617. Map F4 international trends. www.richardginori1735.com. vegan cheeses based on walnuts, almonds, sunflower Aprosio Open Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thurs-Sat 10am-7.30pm; seeds, oats or rice flour. www.giumellavegan.it. Open Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and Sun 12 noon-6.30pm. Via ei Rondinelli, 17/r. T: 055 Mon-Fri 10.30am-8pm. Via Lorenzo di Credi, 12/r. T: creates jewellery accessories and products for 210041. Map E2 393 8221084. Off Map decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano Torchio (Il) Pegna and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting With over 150 years behind it, this shop has become Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. T: tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products part of Florentine history. Just steps from the Duomo, 055 210127. Map E2 with refined materials such as Florentine leather, hand- a historic drugstore with all kinds of Tuscan, Italian and Cassetti 1926 marbled paper and coloured cloths, also devising international specialities: rare cheeses, salumi and In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the new artisan articles with contemporary materials and prosciutti. Plus a vast choice of wines and imported Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio.com.Open Mon-Fri products like spices, coffee, tea and chocolate. Open watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat 10am-1pm. Via de’ Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. pegna.it. Via that develops innovative projects with its own artisan RICHARD GINORI 1735 ANTICO SETIFICIO ANNAMARIA Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. Map G6 dello Studio, 8. T: 055 282701. Map G3 See page 25. FIORENTINO See this page. CAMMILLI See page 25. collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. FOOD & WINE SHOPS Signorvino Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5 In the heart of the city just steps from Ponte Vecchio, Damiani Caffè 1926 the shop has a choice of 1500 labels of selected wines Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a from the best Italian cantinas, applying the same edition - silverware, objects for the home, hand- the purest male elegance as the watchword. These, one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of This bistrot in the Sant’Ambrogio district does a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always formula used in its 15 outlets across the country. It also crafted white bronze creations, always having a style in short, are the values of the company founded in Florence, Borgo San Frediano. An artistic workshop, selection of Tuscan wines, Italian spumanti and interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a does simple quality food from the various regions. The that is midway between minimalism and classicism 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia, which, now a meeting place for buyers and artists, where champagne, served in a Bohemian atmosphere refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary terrace has a wonderful view of the Arno and Ponte as the common denominator. From the design to the in its second generation, has become a successful sculptors and their students carry out their work daily amidst little tables and large windows. Huge spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Open daily 9.30am- wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamond-setting, international group. From clothing (jackets, suits and surrounded by the ancient tools of the trade. Work selection of over 380 makes of rum, unique in the Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths midnight. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. Map F5 each piece is entirely hand worked. Open daily high-fashion sports items, but also shirts and ties) is done by commission on original sculptures, chalk whole of Florence. Open from lunch to after-supper, in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. Via Porta Rossa, to jewellery, from leatherwear to perfumes and the replicas, bronze and Carrara marble and restorations. also hosts events. cafe1926firenze.com. Via G.B. admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com. 82/r. T: 055 2741501. Map E4 SR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci www.raffaelloromanelli.com. Open Mon-Fri Niccolini, 30/r (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 JEWELLERY & WATCHES Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ represents Italian excellence all over the world, making 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Borgo San Frediano, 70. T: 055 2346296. Map L2 Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4 Luisaviaroma Angela Caputi Giuggiù production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian 2396 0 47. Map C4 MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early 1930s Enoteca Bonatti COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned Dodo craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values of by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisaviaroma is a landmark for Leone Cei & Sons Opened in Florence in 1934, this family-run wine throughout the world. Sophisticated, original The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by the manufacturing tradition and the roots of the lovers of fashion and luxury the world over. A global Since 1902, an exceptional firm specializing in dressing shop offers a wide selection of wines and spirits from creations made from unusual materials such as plastic Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico Setificio powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 million visitors tables, appliqués, consuls, chairs and armchairs all over Italy and abroad, with a particular focus on and resin, combined to create unique objects both in collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San Frediano a month, its Florence store also offers a digitalized faithfully reproduced from antique models from a rare France. www.enotecabonatti.it. Open Mon 3.30pm- terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www. district that has produced precious fabrics since 1786 purchasing experience: instead of displaying the and abundant archive. The production, entirely made 7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via V. used as accessories by famous television and film dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. and today still uses the original ancient hand looms. garments, they have been replaced with interactive in Florence, is destined for private homes, hotels Gioberti, 66-68/r. T: 055 660050. Off Map producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. Map E4 www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. installations. Don’t miss the elegant terrace designed and private clubs all over the world. The carving, creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Galanti by Patricia Urquiola. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; gilding, burnishing and lacquering work is performed A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. Map E3 Delicatessen and wine shop. Classic dishes as well Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, rigorously by hand following traditional procedures www.angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open Fani Gioielli as soups, pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, chicken 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116. Map F3 and using natural products and pigmentations. Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, galantines, to eat in, under the porticoes outside or to DEPARTMENT STORES A huge department is dedicated to fabrics for 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Open Mon- Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery and Marina Rinaldi take away. Wide selection of wines and home-made furnishings, with a collection of fabrics still produced Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of sale, in Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for Rinascente jams. Everything made with extra-virgin olive oil and on ancient looms or limited editions, or produced on 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map F4 Florence and Siena. An extensive range of prestigious fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place to prime quality ingredients. www.gastronomiagalanti. request and based on customers’ designs. Qualified jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Dodo and range of collections, featuring both contemporary discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, home com. Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-8pm. Piazza della Annamaria Cammilli consultancy service provided on antiques and on the Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal and design items. For women, proposals of the best Libertà, 31/r. T: 055 490359. Off Map A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, reproduction of period items. www.leonecei.com. www.fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags Italian and international brands range from the classic it has been present with its creations in shop Headquarters & Showroom: Via dei Federighi, 15. 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. and accessories for a total look that exudes class to the contemporary and for men from formal to smart windows and display cases all over the world for T: 055 2381870. Map D3 • Antiques: Via dei Fossi, 47/r. T: 055 212075. Map E3 and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for luxury T: 055 2396039. Map D3 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o Rinascente-Piazza shopping and for new brands, exclusive products and della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3 the unveiling of innovations. www.rinascente.it. Open Papiro (Il) Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Established in 1976 in Florence, Il Papiro produces Société Anonyme Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3 objects drawing their inspiration from the Florentine An independent shop of North-European conception tradition of marbled paper (diaries, address books, ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ inspired by the underground atmospheres of the photo albums, articles for the desk) in addition to a line hot-lazy neighbourhoods of London, Berlin and New FINE ART In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building of classic leather accessories. www.ilpapirofirenze.eu. York (the name is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the Antico Setificio Fiorentino Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Peggy Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great Via C. Cavour, 49/r. T: 055 6499151. Map G1 art gallery in New York called Société Anonyme tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, thanks of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. in the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district also to its famous warping machine based on a design Pitti Mosaici Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the workshop has Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite Palazzo international customers, are genuinely unique pieces renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s been producing some of the most sumptuous silk Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine tradition of of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique and women’s collection that is only sold in-store brocades, damask, taffeta, and lampas in the world, marquetry with marble, hard and semi-precious it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items and online. www.societeanonyme.it. Open Mon 100% made in Italy. www.anticosetificiofiorentino.com. stones. Unique hand-made items to provide coverings and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via for walls, framed items and furnishings recalling the Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. L. Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3 atmospheres and style of the Renaissance. Today the www.angelacaputi.com (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3 art studio creates entire made-to-measure residential Galleria Romanelli Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4 projects all over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Stefano Ricci The Galleria Romanelli has been handing down Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, with precious sculpture artwork for six generations in Pitti, 23/24. T: 055 282127. Map E6

24 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 25 SHOPPING [ RINASCENTE]

Massai Orafi Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith The best shopping Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of Tax Free Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines Refund Guide and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the workshop is a unique experience: on the top 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods floor of a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 and services, and is part of the European Union’s years master goldsmiths have practised the ancient value added tax system. fretworking, carving and engraving traditions typical 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a of the Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi. it. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Map F4 supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: Officine Panerai • you are a non-EU resident; Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique • the goods purchased are intended for personal or Available in the colours blue, gold, ruby, green boasts a unique design and a strong identity that family use and transparent, this synthetic crystal glass pitcher only and are carried in your luggage; Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced is one of the design objects for the table created • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. A 154,94 Euro (VAT included); space on the first floor is devoted to special sales by MARIOLUCA GIUSTI. • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions of should include a description of the goods purchased, watches from the historical Museum; on the ground and top-quality natural materials. A vast range of your personal information as well as the details of floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ disposal to leather handbags, travel bags and accessories (belts, carry out repairs and share his passion with Panerai your passport or any other equivalent document; wallets, briefcases…), for him and for her, offering enthusiasts. www.panerai.com. Open Mon-Sat excellent value for money. Another strong point is the • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. personalization of the products, organised to satisfy third month after the month that you bought them; T: 055 9040013. Map F2 the tastes and requirements of customers, who can • several specific customs formalities are count Michelle Obama among their number. www. Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 complied with; cuoieriafiorentina.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm- In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte returned to the Italian retailer 7.30pm. Via de’ Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map • the invoice is Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys:

within four months after the purchase was made. the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must display tables; the first floor has two rooms for Gianni Chiarini be shown at the customs exit point when leaving reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression of EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items customer care centre, where qualified Rolex ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of contemporary technicians are available to look after the precious into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs bags and accessories, with an idea of pure design. timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan brand, but at the BEFORE checking in). In the heart of Florence, you’ll find Rinascente: the ideal place Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. same time sophisticated, which has its roots in the 5. return After leaving EU territory, the traveller must Map F5 heart of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. to shop for the best in fashion, accessories, beauty and design, the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Tiffany & Co. where the renovation is in progress. The store has recently customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Located in the luxury shopping street par Map D3 opened at the second floor a new remarkable area must be returned within four months from the date excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in when the document was issued. one of the most beautiful Palazzi in the city. There Il Bisonte dedicated to men’s collections and shoes. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian is plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve collections, such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest diamonds, the iconic for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in Palazzo engagement rings, design creations by Elsa Peretti The Rinascente department store in Florence, products devoted entirely to women’s Free” sign in its window). Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully hand- and Paloma Picasso and rigorously Swiss-made located in Piazza della Repubblica, which fashion. A new guise for the department 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, men’s and women’s watches. www.tiffany.com. belts and other accessories epitomising the best of has been the commercial heart of the city store, which proposes, side-by-side, clothes immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on since the Roman Age, is spread over a total for her from accessible luxury and advanced leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. Map C4 materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly the passenger from having to return the invoice to sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the area of 3,300 square metres with seven contemporary brands, ready to wear options, Vacheron Constantin Boutique the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at advantage of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. floors devoted to fashion, beauty, food and lingerie, bags, fragrances, jewellery, sunglasses, In the unique and exclusive setting that is Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via major international airports or main border crossings. Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine lifestyle. As with the other points-of-sale shoes from luxury brands as well as urban del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4 Most major department stores have Tax Free watchmaking design house in the world, founded around the peninsula, the space is giving style sneakers. Refund offices. in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique is its look a makeover to make shopping even Don’t miss the brand-new second floor, with 8. also known for the tabernacle with a painting of the PASSION SHOPPING The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply more captivating and engrossing. The thread all the best of men’s clothing and shoes. the payment of a small administrative sum which Madonna with Child and Saint John that marked AquaFlor the presence of an ancient oratory of the Holy running through that is driving the renovation Foodies can enjoy the “Tosca&Nino, the is directly deducted from the amount of VAT A perfume shop with the charm of past times, Sepulchre, which came under the control of the of the Florentine store is artisanship, a taste of tradition” restaurant and bar, refunded to the traveller. dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. www. perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, concept that is very dear to the city. The open from breakfast till after dinner, which 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, personalisable through the choice of fragrances. A restyling involves all the store’s spaces and will focuses on rigorously selected Tuscan within a reasonable period of time, he or she 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5 studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - www.aquaflorfirenze.com be completed towards the end of 2020. After products to enable you to rediscover the aforementioned companies. LEATHER Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, the restoration of the fourth floor, offering a pleasure of local food, from pappa 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5 transversal shopping experience combining al pomodoro to ribollita. Cuoieria Fiorentina directly by customs offices. fashion, quality craftsmanship, design, beauty From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition Dr. Vranjes STORE: Mon-Sat 9am-10pm; Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund of the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], Home fragrances and elegant furnishing accessories products and food, the third floor featuring Sun 10.30am-8.30pm >> www.rinascente.it typical of this area of Tuscany, here unique, made by hand in Florence for more than 30 years. the Women’s Clothing and the Women’s ROOFTOP | RESTAURANT | CAFÉ: Piazza della Repubblica. inimitable products are created with extreme care Florence is home to the laboratories and the

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE Shoes areas truly is a hotbed for artisanal Mon-Sat 9am-midnight; Sun 10.30am-midnight T: 055 219113.

26 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 27 SHOPPING

headquarters of the Florentine home fragrance first Florentine household item shop, it combines Flagship Store: Via della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily company founded and managed by the “nose”, the industrial and recycled materials and design objects 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 2399527. Map D3 perfumer, namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. for a contemporary result with a romantic touch. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition www.lamenagere.it. Open daily 7am-2am. Via de’ Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica to the traditional production of ambient diffusers Ginori 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1 di Santa Maria Novella UNIQUE and “lamparfum” items, the brand has diversified its The oldest historical pharmacy in production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes and gift Marioluca Giusti Europe (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo- boxes, also giving a strong Florentine identity to the A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican packaging, inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes. design objects for the table and more besides, in a convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has been it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm- style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal open to the public for over four centuries (since 1612). 7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • glass and melamine collections are enhanced every Its products (perfumes, beauty products, medicinal Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via year with new models with colour shades ranging herbs, herbal teas, sweets and chocolates) are sold all della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3• Open Mon from white to black to transparent, to brighter over the world in 75 single brand stores and represent 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm- colours such as fluo. Its products are particularly a production par excellence on account of their quality 7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 appreciated by important international personalities raw materials and centuries-old handicraft techniques, 241748. Map l3 such as the Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed with the aid of modern technologies. The frescoed VI of Morocco, Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the monumental environments - Sales Room, Green Room, La Ménagère Missoni family. Its boutiques are characterized by Ancient Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned CONCEPT STORE A delightful concept store of total white walls with niches where the accessories to their former splendour thanks to restoration work. around 1500 square metres that includes a shop with are exhibited, as in a museum. It has several sites www.smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della design objects for the home, a florist, in addition to in Florence: Por Santa Maria, 16/r (open daily Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2 a restaurant and a bistro. Located right in the city 11am-7pm); Via della Spada, 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat centre, in the space that was once occupied by the 10am-1.30pm/2pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm). The Merchant of Venice NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, completed by products for personal care, for the environment and accessories. The essences are contained in packaging with designs inspired by the glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the single-brand store provides a personalized layering service. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon- Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. T: 055 216559. Map E3

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter and ceremonial attire both for men and women, but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. T: 055 282485. Map D3

SHOES Aquazzura Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a typically European refined aesthetic sensibility with modern Latin American elegance. Aquazzura shoes have been worn Valdichiana Outlet Village: by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, European royalty and fashion insiders around the globe. www.aquazzura. shopping and fun com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Arezzo and Siena, at the intersection of important communication routes such as the A1 Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Map D4 (Valdichiana exit) and the Siena-Perugia dual carriageway (Bettolle exit). Inside the village, Salvatore Ferragamo which is reminiscent of a typical Tuscan town, you can find the most famous clothing labels Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, inside from fashion and sport, in addition to footwear, accessories, jewellery, items for the home and the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the company’s much more besides. There are 140 stores present, with discounts of between 30% and 70% historic workshop since 1938 and the site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), the Ferragamo throughout the year, all amounting to a complete, high-quality commercial offer. For example, boutique hosts all its fashion men’s, women’s, it is possible to find Adidas, Asics, Baldinini, Borbonese, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, K-way, accessories and perfume collections. The brand Gant, Gap, Guess, Geox, Levi’s, Liu Jo Uomo, Lindt, Nike, Piquadro, Rebel Queen by Liu Jo, Replay, represents Italian quality, contemporary elegance, Samsonite, Skechers, Swatch, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger, Villeroy&Boch, Under Armour, Us innovation and tradition. The boutique occupies the entire ground floor of the building, inside large spaces Polo and many more besides. From 16 November a marvellous festive atmosphere will start decorated with 18th-century frescoes. The wing of to be breathed at the Valdichiana Outlet Village, thanks to the Christmas decorations, lights the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita hosts the and a fantastic ice-skating rink. Moreover, from Friday 29 November to Monday 2 December “Ferragamo’s Creations” corner with the exclusive Valdichiana Outlet Village becomes the ideal place for purchasing your Christmas gifts, thanks footwear line that revisits some of the brand’s iconic to the fantastic offers for Black Friday. For info on opening hours and on the dates of the Black models. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am- 7.30pm. Palazzo Spini Feroni-Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. Friday promotions, visit www.valdichianaoutlet.it T: 055 292123. Map E4

28 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019

6554_VOV_Where_Florence_207x277.indd 1 16/09/19 12:23 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

LUGANO best local food and wines are on offer. MENDRISIO Open daily 10am-8pm. BERGAMO BRESCIA • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the Not far from direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana NOVARA TRIESTE Florence, in MILANO Bettolle. Tuscany but also • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience in nearby Emilia- ALESSANDRIA offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round Romagna, don’t TORINO FERRARA and further discounts during sale periods: ? miss a trip to PIACENZA MAR Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Fidenza Village Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, these shopping GENOVA Castel GuelfoADRIATICO BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger Under Armour FORTE destinations The Mall Sanremo and many others. DEI MARMI THE APPENNINI RIMINI ? MAR LIGURE LUCCA MOUNTAINBarberino RIDGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of offering discounts ? Designer Outlet PISA the restaurants and refreshments, a modern year-round. FIRENZE VENTIMIGLIA playground, the possibility of recharging your SAN GIMIGNANO? The Mall Firenze electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge LIVORNO Valdichiana ANCONA and, in the event of rain, the possibility of SIENA ?Outlet Village walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze www.valdichianaoutlet.it PERUGIA BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.ROMA Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives TIRRENO direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. DirectNAPOLI bus Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door by Value Retail and one of The Bicester Village office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in Shopping Collection® Villages: a place where • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. hospitalitySARDEGNA makes the shopping experience Valdichiana Outlet Village Fidenza Village designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance memorable. The Village is located in the Emilia- With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footwear) featuring your favourite brands Romagna region, 2 hours from Florence. Open restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, daily 10am-8pm. surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening). at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, The point where quality, style and convenience unique hospitality at the core of the services and is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, with over 130 boutiques of the world’s leading savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up shopping. www.themall.it discounts of between 30% and 70% all year to 70% off ), including Versace, Armani, Missoni, round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located Calvin Klein, Diesel, Paul Smith and Michael Kors. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a 10am-8.30pm. gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

30 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 31 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE TUSCAN CUISINE store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable Benedicta prices, combining traditional dishes based EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for The “fiorentina” the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan 0750600. Map F1 cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes Latini (Il) every two months depending on the season. Open Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine T:055 2645429. Map D2 tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked Bordino Trattoria with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3 crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are Locale Firenze traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of where by just descending a few steps you can travel Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th- relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Buca Mario Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5 Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of Cammillo dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary the most iconic dishes in Florence A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. cuisine. But be careful: to recognize Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) T: 055 9067188. Map H3 the original and tell it apart from the menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, hundreds of impostors, there are plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with Lungarno23 pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this a few tips you need to know. Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, with unwritten rules that the visitor Map E5 because here the hamburger is accompanied by needs to know to avoid falling foul fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, of the restaurant owner, paying over Cibrèo Ristorante freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www. the odds and to make sure they get In Florence and in the area near the Market of lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. GIANNI UGOLINI 2017 the real thing. Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating Map G6 well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no L’Ortone from a specific cut of a young Chianina PHOTO © fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie cow, a part of the loin near the backbone Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image district, opposite the charming street market, the which has a T-bone in the middle. of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, It should be grilled at a very high fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try temperature, so that a fine crust forms com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this In praise of excellence 2341100. Map L3 the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. dish depends on the cooking: the meat www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 must be brown on the outside but red, Da Burde 0804. Map L4 soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not The bond between Annie Féolde and Giorgio Pinchiorri consolidates a creative link between Italy The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and cooked through. This is the first vital rule: and France. Their Enoteca represents the Italian supremacy of taste. By Chiara Zaccarelli the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken Marione Trattoria livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the a fiorentina must be eaten rare. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms value for money, the atmosphere has remained that the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by he Enoteca Pinchiorri has its home tradition of the territory and in an unrivalled >> Via Ghibellina, 87. T: 055 242757. Map H4 thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini kgs, although bigger steaks are easily in the heart of Florence, in the wine list, which includes prestigious labels enotecapinchiorri.it in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured available. And here is another sore point. eighteenth-century Palazzo Jacometti- as well as other less known but equally Piedmontese wines but also French, including some meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go T fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina Ciofi, a splendid example of late-Baroque interesting ones. A special mention for the at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map because there is usually a long queue of people by weight. An average price to be sure of private architecture, today returned to its desserts, created in the pastry laboratory, waiting outside. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria- getting the real thing is around 50 euros IO Osteria Personale former splendour thanks to the restoration genuine works of art of taste, flavour marione. Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3 a kilo. In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still and the project for the recovery of the original and colour. Among the most memorable conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, Opera WITH. The traditional accompaniment is materials. Honoured with three Michelin dishes, Spaghetti alla chitarra with seafood, surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few usually cannellini beans, washed down stars, the highest recognition in the world of breadcrumbs and roe, Lobster in salmis, modern tavern that has a preference for the products steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera with a glass of Chianti. fine dining, which only nine kitchens in the endive with milk, croquettes made with its of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and WHERE. Here are four restaurants where way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli whole of Italy and a hundred at worldwide claw meat and bergamot, Piglet of the Mora the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music level can boast, the restaurant is run by Romagnola breed with sweet-and-sour carrots illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and background of the most important operas, you can Annie Féolde and Giorgio Pinchiorri. The with cumin and shallots, Pigeon in a crust of seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) success of this husband-and-wife team finds fava beans, cocoa and salt, mango chutney, QUAGLI ROBERTO Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4 traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ its points of strength in the high-quality baby carrots in paprika and diavola sauce. deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; ristorante-perseus-firenze). La Ménagère ingredients and in the search for innovation, Needless to say, the bill is commensurate with closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso (C.Z.) PHOTO © A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2 yet without forgetting the immense culinary the prestige and excellence of the restaurant. combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design

32 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING DINING

Osteria Badalì cuisine (although you can still request a private room Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the Tuscan food Michelin-starred restaurants of the past, all about long cooking times and ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: found on the second-hand book stalls and based 055 214179. Map D3 above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, Frati. A breathtaking view over Florence and across Buca Poldo as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. Via vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on the A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6 cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this case Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, with Touch Bistrò Toscano dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for of the hotelier institute have made their dream a other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that bread using flour from ancient grains. of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo. name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578. Ora d’Aria the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, Map F4 Via dei Georgofili 11/r ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, Buca San Giovanni T: 055 20016 9 but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic www.oradariaristorante.com Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3 An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when Tuscani 3 (I) Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and venue and countless notables from Florence and impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient Pappa col pomodoro home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as recipes but tending towards a more creative Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of CANTUCCI. The finger-shaped almond Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon biscuits are made by slicing up a long cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or Bottega del Buon Caffè roll of baked dough while still hot. "tapas" formula allows you to try a selection of small http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. Piazza San portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts 285356. Map F4 Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F The dough is made with flour, sugar, Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French eggs, butter and raw almonds. Tuscans In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, Zeb Fiaschetteria Nuvoli labels and a highly select menu of beers. normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a with its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are six other Florentine Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory fortified local wine called Vin Santo. the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the destination for anyone who has ever wondered what restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. Winter Garden by Caino Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the CIBREO. Dish for strong stomachs, c/o Hotel Saint Regis dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it Cibreo is a typical main course of Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants Piazza Ognissanti, 1 balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661 worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, T: 055 27163770 Florentine “poor cuisine” containing liver, at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken www.borgosanjacopo.com it comes from the winning combination of prime www.wintergardenbycaino.com chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet Steeped in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the and onion. with a special focus on small local producers. €€. porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Winter Garden by www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. LAMPREDOTTO. This is Florentine San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an Caino has come about from the creative liaison street food par excellence. It’s a cow’s case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized 2342864. Map H6 T: 055 239 6616. Map F2 between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef fourth stomach, known as the ’abomaso’, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or labels, along with others that are little known but Gentian Shehi. Their menu brings the territory’s cooked in a herb broth and most Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that great cuisine back to the limelight in an innovative CANTINE PIZZA washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 the restaurant is located inside the 18th-century way, with elements from every part of the globe, commonly served in a panino soaked Antica Mescita San Niccolò Pizza Man labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato- Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a ranging from classic Tuscan dishes for strong in the broth or topped with the local Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan based one is unmissable) or à la carte. delight for the senses. stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more parsley-based green sauce. crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten- refined proposals, such lobster tail on topinambour Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional PAPPA COL POMODORO. Soup made Bottega del Buon Caffè Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze and mandarin cream. Also the desserts, particularly for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r. T: 055 5535677 Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 the ’Diversamente Tiramisù’, are a joy for the eyes is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe www.ilpalagioristorante.it and the taste buds. also reflects the season and the local territory, with €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. Zero food miles products gathered from the organic Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated salt and pepper. dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, T: 055 2480200. Map H4 vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the environment with tables both indoors and bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just RIBOLLITA. Soup made of stale bread, Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, Pizzaiuolo (Il) kale and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega proposal that looks to the Italian and regional 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6 Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is cannellini). ‘Ribollita’ - literally means del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the boiled several times - derives from the the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Erez Ohayon of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and Buca Lapi pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality fact that in the old days peasants used to proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. make a large pot and serve it, heated up, ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts over a number of days, each time tastier include gems such as amberjack served in three ways venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via than before. (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3 SCHIACCIATA. In Florence you’ll find this with pigeon, butter and thyme. of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan simple focaccia baked in a wood oven labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita Santarpia and dressed with olive oil and salt at any Enoteca Pinchiorri or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via In a room with blue and brown tiles, the wood oven Via Ghibellina, 87 La Leggenda dei Frati in Villa Bardini (Costa San del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3 turns out pizzas made with choice, slow-rising baker’s, but of course everyone has their SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

T: 055 242757 Giorgio). Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545 MARCO PASQUINI flours, tomatoes from Vesuvius and mozzarella from own preference: soft and well oiled, crisp enotecapinchiorri.it www.laleggendadeifrati.it Buca Mario Campania cheese makers. All accompanied by craft and salty, or made with ancient grains. How do you manage to be honoured with Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with beers or wines from small producers. €.

PHOTO © (C.Z.) Enoteca Pinchiorri famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei PHOTO © www.santarpia.biz. Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c. Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine T: 055245829. Map L3

34 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 35 DINING DINING Top hotel restaurants

Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, Il Conventino a Marignolle Il Palagio vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. of fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Il Palagio Truffle and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle Hostaria Bibendum c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze items are flanked by other sophisticated dishes: Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 tagliolino, egg, tartare. The menu also includes www.ilpalagioristorante.it classic Tuscan dishes. Tradition, innovation and creativity: Golden Restaurant A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside Where® highlights some culinary c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant Se•Sto on Arno Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence destinations to whet your appetite www.goldentowerhotel.it tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 in several top hotels in Florence. The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine www.westinflorence.com Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three Local flavours and seasonal products for a card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. an unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia floor of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno Borgo San Jacopo and fittings. and Trattoria al fresco. combines a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden c/o Hotel Lungarno enclosed by sweeping picture windows that Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 Il Giardino Restaurant Irene make the most of the unique position and www.borgosanjacopo.com c/o Sina Villa Medici c/o Hotel Savoy La Loggia breathtaking view over the city. On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant www.sinahotels.com www.roccofortehotels.com Villa La Vedetta is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The A temple of flavours in the sophisticated ambiance Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle Le Bistrot Ristorante La Chiostrina c/o Villa La Vedetta traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th- building with an extraordinary collection of art c/o Villa Cora c/o Bernini Palace Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef century palace, recently renovated and restored to works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 www.villalavedettahotel.com Claudio Mengoni, accompanied by collector its former splendour. The restaurant, with its winter Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef www.villacora.it hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com Just moments away from the Piazzale wines from a cantina of 900 labels. garden which can be opened during the summer Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park One of the most elegant and sophisticated Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking months, has been studied in every detail with an new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant Capriccio Restaurant exclusive design. Seasonality and territoriality are and seasonal products. residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of 16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused c/o Hotel Montebello Splendid the basis for Il Giardino’s cuisine, interpreted by Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products Via G. Garibaldi, 14. T: 055 27471 chef Luigi Incrocci. The menu presents interesting J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, www.montebellosplendid.com creations of the best Italian and international c/o JK Place Firenze Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian The restaurant is designed to ensure tranquility, tradition, revisited in a modern mood. The Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part offers international dishes. options too. out of the tourist circuit, and to satisfy you with philosophy behind the restaurant’s cuisine is to www.jkplace.com locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant class service and haute cuisine dishes. Quality amaze the guests dish after dish. The wine cellar Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with Ristorante La Loggia Winter Garden by Caino products and absolute freshness for a couple’s has 60 wine labels. local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it c/o Belmond Villa San Michele c/o The Saint Regis Florence candlelight dinner or a special event. farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining moves poolside to the winter garden. Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 Hostaria Bibendum room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the www.belmond.com www.wintergardenbycaino.com Flora & Fauno c/o Helvetia & Bristol terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. Relais Le Jardin This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 c/o Hotel Regency visit even just for its magnificent position looking Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 www.starhotelscollezione.com La Cucina del Salviatino Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 over Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities revisited restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born out www.hotelvillesullarno.com This restaurant located in a magnificent 19th-century c/o Il Salviatino www.regency-hotel.com in a contemporary accent by Executive Chef of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini Facing the river and immersed in the lovely palace offers a menu inspired by tradition with Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge Alessandro Cozzolino. and executive chef Gentian Shehi. Their menu garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno a penchant for local producers and ingredients. www.salviatino.com mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens shines an innovative spotlight on the wonderful offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country Alongside more contemporary Italian dishes, a Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant local cuisine, with suggestions from all parts of the feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas fully-rounded experience of Florence has to include a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa globe. It ranges from the classic Tuscan dishes for of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited Tuscan specialities such as panzanella, Chianti salumi links to the local territory and the seasons, with a dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on and cheeses, pappa al pomodoro and honey- prevalence of meat courses, though there is no such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze more refined proposals like lobster tail on cream of the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed lacquered duck, as well as desserts like cantucci shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants topinambour and mandarin. The desserts, too, are sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other with Vin Santo and Florentine sponge cake with orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business a joy for both eyes and palate, in particular their times sticking to tradition. Buontalenti gelato and vanilla topping. food miles. highest quality. famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection original take on tiramisù.

36 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 37 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from APERITIVI BRUNCH 8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional Chiaroscuro Ditta Artigianale wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi, 8/r. Florentines today are attracted by the original and a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving T: 055 215654. Map E4 genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and aperitifs competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened served in a popular bar-cafe furnished with a retro Procacci this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee, touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro.it. Via del This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become an serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm) ranging Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3 institution, and not only in Florence, especially for its from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon and French truffle-based specialities and impeccable selection Easy living toast. Designer atmosphere. www.dittaartigianale.it. of wines. Combines a gourmet food shop and Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce district). • wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere, with delicious (little beach), its location is quite singular: this strictly T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r. (Santo Spirito snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm (Sunday from 11am till summer-only bar is built right on the river-bed of district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5 8pm). Historic venue in the heart of Florence. www. the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò, from where procacci1885.it. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 64/r. patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif with a stunning Foody Farm T: 055 211656. Map E3 view of Ponte Vecchio, often with live music. There “The right food from the right places” is the motto of this little restaurant where the quality and is always a cooling breeze, a big plus in a sweltering Teatro del Sale traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An Florence summer. www.easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by original and genuine light lunch, with the option Poggi. T: 055 2341112. Map I6 Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food, patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and co- Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina founder, president and artistic director Maria Cassi. The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am till Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly original brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce district. brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a fixed surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r. price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and Sunday). aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com. T: 055 242327. Map H5 From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm), dinner Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. with after-dinner show, both at a fixed price of 30 Map F4 Odeon Bistrot Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful euros. www.teatrodelsale.com. Via dei Macci, 111/r. Il Rifrullo little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white (Sant’Ambrogio district). T: 055 2001492. Map I3 In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for both Florentines and visitors, renovated several times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. www.ilrifrullo. com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. T: 055 2342621. Map H6

Rivalta Cafè Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue that combines modern furnishings and frescoed ceilings. Hall of Maps / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM DARIA TREFILOVA The sight of the Arno at dusk always attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno Corsini 14/r. T: 055 289810. Map E4

Rooftop Bar La Terrazza Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio The secrets of Palazzo Vecchio furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of the Visiting Palazzo Vecchio is like immersing yourself in the history of the city. Today a “secret” tour gives you the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel.com. Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. possibility of exploring the palace of the Medici from an intriguing perspective. By Chiara Zaccarelli Map F4 Se·Sto on Arno The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs he history of Florence was written here: the labyrinths of the building, catapulting every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large terrazze the historic opposition between the you, through secret passages and hidden provide a 360° view over the marvels of Florence. T Guelphs and the Ghibellines, Cosimo I doors, into evocative and normally inaccessible www.westinflorence.com. Piazza Ognissanti, 3. The pleasure of every sip T: 055 27151. Map C3 de’ Medici lived here, and it was again here that environments. One of the most exciting among The Signorvino wine shop in Florence is right in the heart of the city, a stone’s throw Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo Buonarroti these is the sophisticated Studiolo of Francesco Three Sixty from the Ponte Vecchio. Here is a cuisine offering customers simple, quality dishes divided worked side-by-side. Built between the late I de’ Medici and the Writing desk of his father From May to September the Grand Hotel up according to regions. Signorvino proves an ideal destination, starting with the warm, Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its 13th and early 14th centuries, over time Palazzo Cosimo I, better known as the Tesoretto. informal atmosphere that welcomes you when you enter. The furnishings are in fact magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming Vecchio has been the object of numerous A tour with a unique charm, as Dan Brown also pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. www. enlivened by characteristic exposed bricks and bottles on display on the walls. For lovers enlargement and transformation projects. In knew well; in his novel “Inferno” he makes his grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa Maria of quality sparkling wines, here it is possible to find a genuine “trusted wine shop”, with 1800 it was the seat of the Parliament of the protagonists go along many of these secret Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2 the possibility of consulting expert advisors who work in close contact with both end Kingdom of Italy, while today it hosts the Mayor routes. In particular, Professor Robert Langdon Zoe consumers and selected wine cellars: an excellent opportunity to give or be given an of Florence and is also a museum where works and his partner Sienna Brooks go along the Cocktails and apericena accompanied by hookah, excellent bottle of wine as a refined souvenir or enjoy a pleasant glass of wine while admiring by Michelangelo Buonarroti, Donatello and passage concealed behind the map of Armenia, in a bar with essential modern furnishings and soft one of Italy’s most charming panoramas. Excellent company for the wine labels is provided Verrocchio are on display. in the Hall of Maps, to then emerge in the attic lighting. For years a favourite with the younger by the menu, with gastronomic proposals based on regional dishes, offering specialities that crowd, always a lively atmosphere in the trendy A visit to this museum is an exciting experience with the stupendous wooden truss ceiling San Niccolò district. www.facebook.com/ change every three months according to the seasons. in general. But there is an exclusive tour, for of the Sala dei Cinquecento. zoebarfirenze. Via dei Renai, 13. T: 055 243111. www.signorvino.com. Via Dei Bardi, 46/r. T: 055 286258. Map F5 small groups, that takes you even deeper into bigliettimusei.comune.fi.it Map H6

38 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 39 Studiolo of Francesco I de’ Medici MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Piazzale Michelangelo ATTRACTIONS Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4 Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its & MONUMENTS Ponte Vecchio views seen all over the world in million of postcards There has been a bridge at this point of the River Duomo and Cupola and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some between floods and reconstructions, the official date official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree- 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, important artists of the period participated in its monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe who used the river to dispose of their waste in a creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous del Poggi”. Map I7 multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it 19 th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths San Miniato al Monte construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious foot) up its 463 steps. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. history, on prominent display on the bridge is a building situated at one of the highest panoramic it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith points in Florence. The most spectacular access is of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge gained via the monumental flight of steps (which Battistero between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli is not advisable, however, for those with problems Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via walking). The outside of the church is decorated Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 with green and white marble, typical of Florentine building that completes the considerably striking Romanesque, while a 12th-century mosaic Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, decorates the central part of the façade. www. th The symbol of wealth and power, the building was but its first official dating is at least in the 12 century. sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg- It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a T: 055 234 2731. Off Map dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy The outside is decorated with white marble from family. The original architecture dates back to the Mercato Centrale Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque owner. The building is located on the left bank of the entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously river, at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and most important examples of Italian-style gardens inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in the world and are considered a genuine open-air floor of the historic covered market there has been in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, museum. Currently they are the site of four different a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the leisure activities and street food options, and this www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery has now become a point of reference for informal Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and but good quality cuisine for both Florentines Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Campanile di Giotto www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation 294883. Map E6 Map F1 of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del WWW.ALESSANDROMOGGI.COM Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square- based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. Scents of Florence it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3 Those wishing to try an unconventional visit should not miss the new Museo Villoresi: a “journey behind the Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of scenes” that tells you what a perfume is, how it is created and its fundamental ingredients. By Giulia Minero civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman n the heart of the Oltrarno, inside a historical collection that winds its way around the terraces Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over palazzo in Via de’ Bardi, there is a location and the garden of the Museum. Special olfactory the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the where perfume and the art of creation stations, an interactive map and films I Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and of fragrances of natural origin become the accompany visitors on their journey of discovery, Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent protagonists of a genuine museum. Conceived revealing the appearance, names, origins and in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a by Florentine ‘Nose’ Lorenzo Villoresi, Museo smells of the most important aromatic materials. series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing Palazzo Pitti and its dynasties one of the most important sculptural cycles in the Villoresi in fact offers visitors a multisensory tour The Academy of the Art of the Perfume, of world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s A palace for three dynasties, Palazzo Pitti is an extraordinary building located in the Oltrarno of the world of perfume to discover the main which the Museum is an integral part, holds David: the one on display in its original position is a district, at the foot of ther Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of aromas, the methods of creating a fragrance, the courses, guided visits and workshops to acquaint copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria the palace, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti contains four different museums: the figure of the perfumer, and even an outline of the public with the historical, cultural, technical dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4 Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground flloor and mezzanine) with vases made of semi-precious the history of perfume, as well as the myths and and artistic values of the universe of perfumery. Palazzo Vecchio stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories and an exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; legends associated with it. The beating heart of Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat the Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) with the world’s largest the museum is located in the Osmorama, one >> Museo Villoresi of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest concentration of works by Raphael, the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) hosting an synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one of the largest collections of ancient and modern Via de’ Bardi, 12. important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school; the Musem of Fashion and Costume of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its aromatic ingredients on which the creation of the T: 055 2340715. imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of (Palazzina della Meridiana) with 6,000 items from the 18th century to today. perfumes is based, while the plants from which Map G6 Osmorama its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Map E6 the aromas are obtained are kept in a dedicated www.lorenzovilloresi.it make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people.

40 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 41 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, Santa Croce Museo degli Innocenti cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every year it Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo FIRENZECARD The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, organises exhibitions that investigate the relationship and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel between fashion and art. The museum is situated in a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which was purchased by radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the headquarters for appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors museum itinerary combines the documentary and examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and his company and his workshop – and in its rooms it to Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts 15th centuries. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm. Full ticket displays masterpieces of Florentine art from the 17th his great masterpieces here and the French writer precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini. and 18th centuries. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Full Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di Cosimo, comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria ticket price €6. www.ferragamo.com/museo. Palazzo that has been known since then as the “Stendhal Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della Robbia. Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Map E3 Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562- syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views. Open 846/466. Map E4 sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. Museo Giardini di Boboli daily 10am-7pm. www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it. Piazza www.santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous Museo Stefano Bardini Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1 055 2466105. Map H4 Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in responsible for designing their layout, creating the antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his Santa Maria Novella Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure model of the Italian-style garden that was to become private collection to Florence, where it was displayed Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo An elegant collection of works made of semi-precious Firenzecard costs €72, allows access to 72 museums and is valid for 72 hours from an example for many European courts. Populated by in the Neo-Renaissance building that housed his Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of stones and multi-coloured marble and scagliola, ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with grottos antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one paintings on stone and oil paintings, instruments, plus - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto - and large including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied back to the end of the 13th century but work on it of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: an extensive collection of stone samples. The works fountains, such as those of Neptune and the Ocean, arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with a continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on are displayed in chronological order from the early they are a genuine open-air museum. The terraced area major presence of works from the Middle Ages and the façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious 17th century to the 1880s. Open Mon-Sat 8.15am- the Firenzecard circuit includes the Rococò pavilion known as the Kaffeehaus Renaissance. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. Full synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The 2pm. Closed on Sundays and holidays. • Priority access to museums without needing to book and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. At the centre of ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via church of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli Alfani, 78. the Rose Garden is the Palazzina del Cavaliere, which dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 2342427.Map G6 of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino • 72 hours available T: 055 218709. Map H1 houses the Porcelain Museum. Closed first and last Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www. www.firenzecard.it Museo di Palazzo Vecchio Monday of the month. Full ticket price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Orsanmichele smn.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. Map E6 A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil and 18. T: 055 219257. Map D2-E2 or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the religious functions are combined. Built as a granary, in 9.30am-1.30pm. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici performances, contemporary art installations and Museo Nazionale del Bargello the mid-14th century it was consecrated for Christian Santo Spirito city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and This imposing building, built between the 13th worship. On the ground floor the Church houses Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2 holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. Museum and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. The Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of time it has undergone numerous enlargement and full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. Piazza transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between originals of the numerous sculptures (works by famous reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given Cappella Brancacci Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3 are rooms and private environments sumptuously 1574 and 1858. The Museum conserves a highly Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th centuries) that its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del decorated by some of the most famous artists of the important collection of Renaissance sculptures, adorned the niches outside on the four sides of the “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located “Oltrarno”, that is on the Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, Forte di Belvedere Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, imposing stone cube are conserved in the museum left bank of the river. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, house the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici exceptional masterpieces. Open daily, 9am-11pm; Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, on the first floor. On the second floor you can enjoy a the church was the last great project by Filippo universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle of commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm. Museum and prestigious collections of “lesser arts”. Open fine panoramic view of Santa Maria del Fiore. Classical Brunelleschi. www.basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and fortress on the top of Boboli Hil. The fort currently full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini. daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Museum full ticket price: €9. music concerts are held here. Church (ground Spirito, 30. T: 055 210030. Map D5 Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello. floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. Free entry. www. were left unfinished and were eventually completed exclusively on the occasion of temporary exhibitions. San Lorenzo Map G4 Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4 bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/3/orsanmichele. by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and 1482. You Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 2388606. Map F4 are advised to book (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7 Museo Salvatore Ferragamo Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of Museo di Santa Maria Novella Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. This is a museum devoted to the history of the Santa Maria del Fiore Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the Full ticket price: Wed-Fri €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Galleria degli Uffizi The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. www. The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the fourth century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, floors of the large building erected between 1560 and world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique churches in the city. Its current appearance, however, 14. T: 055 2768224-558-2382195. Map C5 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of combination of art, faith and history located in the is the result of the last major reconstruction work the most famous museums in the world on account city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic that took place in the 15th century at the wishes Cappelle Medicee of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del of the Medici and under the direction of the great Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state and paintings. The collections of paintings from the Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Its bare stone façade museum, but their history is closely associated with 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower , together with was intended to receive a rich marble decoration that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to Botticelli, the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo designed by Michelangelo, which unfortunately are part. The museum consists of the New Sacristy, from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are also important dell’Opera del Duomo are all visitable with a single was never executed. The interior is a masterpiece, designed and conceived as regards its sculptural collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), with also embellished by sculptures by Donatello of rare furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. Open Tues- prior booking necessary for the Dome. expressive intensity. www.operamedicealaurenziana. a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and ticket price: €20. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3 214042. Map F2 their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, 055 23885.Map F5 which contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the Villa Bardini and Gardens Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze MUSEUMS & Elder. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, The most beautiful view of Florence earned it 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month,. Full The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a EXHIBITION SITES ticket price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/ of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the place rich in history, art and culture, has become Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana musei/2/medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana. an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary transported here from Piazza della Signoria (where Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San org. Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum it was replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of the 282984. Map F2 (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great realist Housed in the adjacent premises are works coming architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ANNA PAKUTINA painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum (www. Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi from the Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of Arts and the convents themselves, which were of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelin- private architecture of the Renaissance and a abolished in the Napoleonic Age. And also, the ascending the monumental staircase designed by NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE BARGELLO starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati dynamic cultural centre that hosts international Gipsoteca, or Hall of Models, the collection of Russian Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati One of the most important collections of Renaissance statues in the world is conserved (see "Dining"), and surrounding it are four hectares level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the icons and musical instruments of the courts of the in 1559. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present Medici and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am- here. Inside the magnificent medieval building, the spectacular courtyard with round Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, 6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: arches stretches over two floors. The open upper loggia, known as the ‘Verone’ (see photo), dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Full ticket the café and the museum shop, which looks out €12. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri presents a number of precious sculptural works. price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, Ricasoli , 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2 Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G 42 WHERE FLORENCE I NOVEMBER 2019 www.wheretraveler.com 43 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

Emergency UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771. Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650 Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it.

PHOTO © Airports of Florence (which is approximately the part AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA Getting around Florence located within the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic to the North-West of Florence, lies between Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer scooters are allowed to enter. The museum city Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique • Connections to the airport and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am- Tourist Information VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from 12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO - concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it. S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every (int. 5). T: 055 334802. www.firenzeturismo.it 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of only allowed into the centre to load and unload Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s Can be used on buses, trams or trains. purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information alleyways and sidestreets, derives from your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). and sales point for Firenzecard. its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period concierge, also so you can receive indications of Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. F (www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the where the car parks are located in the centre). To that is gradually disappearing, but some traces one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket: €10. brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces find your way around the city, it is a good idea of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, ticket from 10pm to 3am). A further step in the digital Firenzecard. remain. With less than four hundred thousand to keep well in mind that Florence is developed were divided between “black”, which denoted he NEW AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) transformation of Florence’s public transport: 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: inhabitants and covering an area of little more along the two banks of the River Arno. All the residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red - (80 km from the centre of Florence). today you can travel on buses (ATAF, Volainbus 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and than a hundred square kilometres, Florence roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. Call centre T: 050 849300. and The Mall) by paying fast and safe with your holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 is practically impossible to tour by car, and in are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. www.pisa-airport.com debit/credit/pre-paid contactless cards. 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” connects S.M. Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: the highest tourist density on the entire planet: Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: (www.gestramvia.com). The new line Tramway Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and wherever you wish to visit, book in advance €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, T2 “Vespucci” connecting the Airport with events, opening times of museums, how to you can also count on quite an efficient public the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on (or have them book for you at your hotel). travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. S.M. Novella Station has been activated on move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm transport network (which, however, is severely the other side of the river, to the south, is called You should also bear in mind that the serious 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu February 2019. Electric buses move around the in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: historic centre and also reach the pedestrian Via email ([email protected]) you can limited during the nighttime hours, so take care “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally overcrowding takes place around mid-morning, €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, areas (C1-C2-C3-D lines). WHERE TIP Route ask for information in any language, including after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the outside the historic centre, but today it contains so if you are an early bird then that could give you travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. C1 is convenient for visiting the most important Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic strategic points, whereas private cars are usually important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the a significant advantage. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it museums in Florence.The entire historic centre (answers within 24 hours).

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V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO VIA ANTONIO STOPPANI NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I PIAZZA LUDOVICO ANTONIO VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI V VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa MURATORI I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I Preziosissimo ANTI VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Sangue IA SAN DOMENICO MUGNONE U G I A V I VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI Stazione Firenze Statuto Giardino V I A F A E N T I PIAZZA V V. G. dell'Orticoltura VIALE FRANCESCO REDI VIA FRANCESCO BONAINI FEB OXR A I A V I Villa il TOMMASO PIAZZA Ventaglio VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C ALVA EDISON V. I. NIEVO VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA VIA BOLOGNESE DELLE CURE C O I L Chiesa della UIDO CAVALC Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT I N I VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA RFA NA C SEPC IVOR I PIAZZA VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI VIA V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I VNES AIRN EI N I V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI D EASLO TATV I U TO D I GIACOMO PIAZZA A L I VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N I A PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O XAMV XI A G GO I V E VITTORIA VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I DAV I ER LO M TO I G A V IA M A R A G L IA N O V. TOSCANELLI VIA DELLE FORBICI U VIA A. GARBASSO G VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI PIAZZA VIA DELLA CERNAIA A VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI I U VIA FILIPPO PACINI SE V. A. MEUCCI V GALILEO VIA ANTONIO COCCHI S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O T MUGNONE FERRARIS VIA DEI CAIROLI O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale Istituto Comprensivo Statale R I V V I A D E L G ONNA TOS VIA LEONARDO FIBONACCI H Sacro Cuore VIALE ALESSANDROV. VOLTAG. B. AMICI I I VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI L U C A G OI R D A N O A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI LARGO C .A V I V. MAD PONTE ROSSO

V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E V. A. NICOLODI PIETRO D Golf Club Parco Di Firenze V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E VIA XX SETTEMBRE V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I V I A C O S S E R I A CAPEI E

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STA PIAZZA Chiesa di Sant'Agata V. VOLTURNOV Chiesa San Jacopino AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CAIROLI I A L E VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO VIALE SPARTACO LAVAGNINI PIAZZA VASARI VIA SAN GALLO M I SAVONAROLA V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O ACIO A VIA G. PAISIELLO O N VIA POGGI VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI IL VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V F Giardino VIA PIETRO MARONCELLI VIA G. DOLFI V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O O P V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V I Campo Di R A A S. CATERINA D'ALESSANDRIA Marte V I A C A V O U R E VI V IA G U S T A V O M O D E N A Chiesa VIAPIO FEDI PIAZZA G VIA DELLE RUOTE PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E U Nostra Signora D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI I D del Sacro Cuore Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI O VIA ROSOLIN Franchi MONTIGNANO F M V IA V E N E Z IA Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. A O VIA BARTOLOMMEI Giardino VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFONSO LA MARMORA V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE A VIA DELLA FORTEZZA VIA DEI SETTE SANTI BAMBINE E BAMBINI EGLI ARTISTI T VIA GIUSEPPE SIRTORI C PIAZZA Cimitero I O DI BESLAN V AI M A S A C C OI INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIER ANTONIO MICHELI della Misericordia Passerella dell'Isolotto S. Giovanni VIA D VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N dei Cavalieri VIA MASSA Giardino VL. T. MAMIANI V AI M A N N E L L I V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E VIA SAN GALLO VIA CITTADELLA VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I A D N O F L A V A I V Giardino DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI LG. PORTA di Valfonda VIA DEL PRATELLO Teatro dell’Opera LEOPOLDA P EI R C A P P O N I A Z N E A F A I V V IA G U E L F A Giardino V. MONTANELLI dei Semplici VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO Convento VIA GIAMBOLOGNA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RATA VIA G.LA PIRA Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPPONI V I A A N T O N I O C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA PORTA AL LO VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I L LARGO V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI San Barnaba PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE PIAZZA SAN MARCO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE VIA SANTA SAN GA VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA VIA DELL'ARCOLAIO SAN BARTOLOMEO VIA V AI M A S A C C OI Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale ADUA G A B D EM U I F A I V F H B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I C E I L AL GIGNORO V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI A R N O Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa Opera di San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLO VIALE MANFREDO FANTI VIA DEI FALCUCCI Amerigo Vespucci di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI Firenze Fortezza 11 Mugello Fiesole Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Airport (4km) V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Chiesa Casa di Riposo da Basso Piazza 30km 8km degli Inglesi episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia PIAZZA BORGO PINTI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL San Marco DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO V IA D E G L IA L F A N I V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale SANTISSIMA Museo Archeologico V AI L E M A L T A V.Z CENTRALE V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO 1 Stazione Ferroviaria VIA DE’GINORI ANNUNZIA 1 VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella VIA DELL’ARIENTO Nelson Mandela Forum E P E M A Z Z I N I Florence Map LI ORI

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VIA DEL R. FIORENTINO R. DEL VIA di San Lorenzo SAN E VIA DEL PIGNONCINO DEL VIA ITALIANA BRUNELLESCHI VIA DEL MELARANCIO V I A D E ’ G O R I T VIAC MAGENTA O R S O TI A L AI Basilica di LORENZO S VIA GIORDANI L U N G A R N O A M E R I G O V E S P U C C I Santa Maria Novella VIA D A VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO C PIAZZA V I A D E ’ V A N N I V I A P I G N O N E Ponte della Vittoria E L VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI E’ Teatro D Università VIALE EDMONDO DE AMICIS V I A VIA DEL SANSOVINO Santa 13 C MASSIMO D'AZEGLIO VIA LIBERO ANDREOTTI VIA PANZANI ONTI degli Studi di Firenze PIAZZA V. S. LUCIALucia O Pucci VIA GIOVANNI BOVIO Z VIA PALESTRO sul Prato VIA DELL'ALBERO VIA MARSALA P. BATONI VI A DELL’ALLORO OLI Chiesa 2 Polimoda Santa Maria 2 V IA D E L L A S C A L A VIA DEL GIGLIO Parrocchiale VIA ZANETTI AN LOREN CAS Maddalena dei Pazzi VIA ANTONIO SCIALOJA V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI PIAZZA Teatro Sacro Cuore VIA FERDINANDO MARTINI V I A G I O V A N N I A N T O N I O S O G L I A N I VIA MONTEBELLO PIAZZA VIA DE’Niccolini MARTELLI V I A R I TADDEO GADDI B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I SANTA ORGO S VIA DEL MEZZETTA V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O B VIA DEI SERVI IA DE’ CONTI VIA CIRO MENOTTI MARIA V VIA DEI BANCHI VIA ANNIBAL CARO V I A D E L L A F O N D E R I A 1 Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova VIA M.FINIGUERRA VIA DEI CERRETANI VIA BRONZINO NOVELLA 2 LO FARINI VIALE GIUSEPPE MAZZINI V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA FRANCESCO TALENTI Teatro I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E L A I V V AI M A N N E L L I LI Santa Maria della V. G . B . N I C C O L I N I VIAL. MAITANI INEL Battistero D Maggiore Cattedrale di Museo dell'Opera V. DELLA CASA Pergola VIA GIAMBATTISTA VICO VIA DELLE VIABELLE DONNE di San Giovanni Santa Maria del Fiore di Santa Maria del Fiore Oratorio Di V. DEL TREBBIO 3 NA VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA Santommaso Tempio Maggiore VIA BRONZINO DEI RON LUIGI CAR Loggia di San Paolo Palazzo V. D'aquino VIA DEI PILASTRI A Israelitico PIAZZA VI Sinagoga VIA CAPO DI MONDO V. DEL GIGNORO Antinori VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI VIA DI MELEGNANO PINTI GUGLIELMO VIALE ETRURIA V. B. FRANCESCHINI Ognissanti V. CAMPANELLA VIA DEL MEZZETTA VIALE ETRURIA L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A Chiesa FIESOLA V. FRA' SARPI Chiesa dei V. DELL'ORIUOLO VIA SANT'EGIDIO A OBERDAN di San VIA DEL SOLE I VIA PIETRO COLLETTA Santi Michele LLESCHI VIA G. LEOPARDI PIAZZA V VIA TITO SPERI Paolino V.CANONICA VIA

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VIA BORGO SAN FREDIANO LUNGARNO CORSINI VIA PELLICCERIA D del Bargello CAVALCAVIA DELL'AFFRICO alla Carraia O R O N G I G L E D A I V V. V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O VIA FERDINANDO PAOLIERI V I A V I N C E N Z O G I O B E R T I Palazzo Bartolini VIA PORTA ROSSA VIA DELLA CONDOTTA VIA VIGNA VECCHIA VI A VINCENZO CHIARUGI V I A P I S A N A Basilica di Salimbeni Palazzo VIA DEL PARIONCINO Teatro Verdi AM V. D. VENEZIANO Santa Trinita Davanzati Loggia del VIA GIUSEPPE VERDI Chiesa PIAZZA L O V I PIAZZA O IT VIA DI MONTE OLIVETO Chiesa L VC.PANICO V. DEL LA BURELLA VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO VIA EL VIA PIERO DI COSIMO VIA Porcellino V. CALIMARUZZA DI SAN FIRENZE VIA DEI PEPI Cattolica Parrocchiale G R LI S. Frediano SO E D PIAZZA I D EL Santi V IA D E L F IC O V I A G H I B E L L I N A LEON PIAZZA AS PIAZZA VIA DELL'ANGUILLARA S. Maria Degli Angeli SO LE T Chiesa in Cestello Museo IC I PARTE BAR Simone e Giuda VIA BENOZZO GOZZOLI L VIA TORTA R ERME DELLA SIGNORIA Palazzo 4 DE’ NERLI M GUELFA O 4 BATTISTA Parrocchiale Santissimo Salvatore O Complesso O V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O V I A D E L L A C H I M E R A RDA VIA VACCHERECCIA SS Gondi Croci sso a Monticelli BORGO SAN FREDIANO Ferragamo di San Firenze I VIA DE VIA GIACOMO ZANELLA IA FIO Chiesa V.D.B A 4 PACCI 4 D ALBERTI VIA PISANA D. CH LL'ANGUILL VIA DEIV. SANTI APOSTOLI R della VIA S. GIOVANNI LUNGARNO GUCCIARDINI V I A A R E T I N A BORGO DEI GRECI O Archivio di Stato Sacra Famiglia C VIA CA PIAZZA Palazzo Vecchio V. GIOVANNI DA VERRAZZANO VIA BACCIO DA MONTELUPO NTA MARI C A Santi Apostoli A DEI SALTERELLI Loggia RA LUNGARNO DEGLI ACCIAIOLI A CH S BELLOSGUARDO IASSO D VIA DELLA NINNA T An teatro e Biagio dei Lanzi VIA CORNO PIAZZA DI V I A L E A L E A R D O A L E A R D I N V I A G H I B E L L I N A V I A G I O T T O VIA DEL LEONE

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5 STARS Adler Cavalieri – Via della Scala, 40 • Map C1 Pontevecchio Suites & SPA – Via De’ Belfredelli, 9 • Map E5 Belmond Villa San Michele – Via Doccia, 4 (Fiesole) • Albani Firenze – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • Map F3 Rapallo – Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, 7 • Off Map Off Map Continentale – Vicolo dell’Oro, 6/r • Map F4 Roma –Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 8 • Map E3 Bernini Palace – Piazza S. Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria) • Dei Cavalieri Relais Monna Lisa – Borgo Pinti, 27 San Firenze Suites e SPA – Piazza di S. Firenze, 3 • Map G4 Map G4 • Map H2 San Gallo Palace – Via Lorenzo Il Magnifico, 2 • Off Map Four Seasons Hotel Firenze – Borgo Pinti, 99 • L1 Executive Firenze – Via Curtatone, 5 • Map B2 Santa Maria Novella – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 1 • Map E2 Golden Tower Hotel & Spa – Piazza degli Strozzi, 11/r • Map E4 FH55 Calzaiuoli – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • F3 Torre Guelfa – Borgo SS. Apostoli, 8 • Map F4 Helvetia & Bristol Firenze – Via dei Pescioni, 2 • Map E3 FH55 Grand Hotel Mediterraneo – Lungarno del Tempio, 44 UNAHOTELS Vittoria Firenze – Via Pisana, 59 • Off Map Hotel Regency Firenze – Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3 • Map L1 • Off Map Hotel Savoy – Piazza della Repubblica, 7 • Map F3 Gallery Hotel Art – Vicolo dell’Oro, 5 • Map F4 LUXURY HISTORIC ACCOMMODATIONS Il Salviatino – Via del Salviatino, 21 (Fiesole) • Off Map Ginori al Duomo – Via de’ Ginori, 22/24/26 • Map F1 Antica Torre Tornabuoni – Via de’ Tornabuoni, 1 • Map E4 Lungarno – Borgo San Jacopo, 14 • Map F5 Glance Hotel In Florence – Via Nazionale, 23 • Map E1 Be One Art and Luxury Home – Via dei Brunelleschi, 1 Montebello Splendid – Via G. Garibaldi, 14 • Map B1 Grand Hotel Adriatico – Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 • Map C2 • Map F3 NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa – Via Porta Rossa, 19 • Horto Convento Firenze – Viale L. Ariosto, 13 • Map B4 Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo– Via De’ Servi, 2 • Map G2 Map E4 Hotel Cellai – Via 27 Aprile 14, 52/r • Off Map Palazzo Vecchietti – Via degli Strozzi, 4 • Map E3 Hotel Degli Orafi – Lungarno degli Archibusieri, 4 • F5 4-STAR BOUTIQUE HOTELS Portrait Firenze – Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4 • Map F4 Hotel Londra – Via Jacopo da Diacceto 16/20 • Map C1 AdAstra – Via del Campuccio, 53 • C6 Relais Santa Croce – Via Ghibellina , 87 • Map H4 J & J – Via di Mezzo, 20 • I3 Grand Amore Hotel & Spa – Via de’ Servi, 38/a • Map H1 Sina Villa Medici – Via Il Prato, 42 • Map B1 Kraft – Via Solferino, 2 • B2 Messori Suites – Via A. Giacomini, 25 • Off Map The St. Regis Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 1 • Map C31 L’Orologio – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 24 • Map E2 Palazzo Castri 1874 – Piazza Indipendenza, 7 • Off Map The Westin Excelsior, Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 3 Mercure Firenze Centro – Via Nazionale, 21-23/r • Map E1 Riva Lofts Florence– Via Baccio Bandinelli, 98 • Off Map • Map C3 NH Anglo American – Via G. Garibaldi, 9 • Map B2 Rivoli Boutique Hotel (S) – Via della Scala, 33 • Map D2 Villa Cora – Viale Machiavelli, 18 • Off Map NH Firenze – Piazza V. Veneto, 4 • Map A1 SoprArno Suites – Via Maggio, 35 • D5 Villa La Vedetta – Viale Michelangiolo, 78 • Off Map NilHotel – Via E. Barsanti, 27 • Off Map Ville sull’Arno – Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo, 1/3/5 Novotel Firenze Airport – Via Tevere, 23 (Sesto Fiorentino) • • Off Map Off Map

Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort – Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, Palazzo Gaddi (S) – Via del Giglio, 11 • Map E2 FLORENCE CITY GUIDE

10 • Off Map Palazzo Ognissanti Hotel – Via Maso Finiguerra, 12/r NOVEMBER 2019 ®

• Map C2 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE 4 STARS Palazzo dal Borgo – Via Della Scala, 6 • Map D2 Unexpected Florence AC Hotel Firenze by Marriott – Via L. Bausi, 5 • Off Map Pierre – Via de’ Lamberti, 5 • Map F4 Hidden itineraries, not-to-be missed food destinations, top events

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