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Fan and Tsai: Food, Identity, and Connections in the Market Street Chinatown FAN AND TSAI: FOOD, IDENTITY, AND CONNECTIONS IN THE MARKET STREET CHINATOWN Authored by J. Ryan Kennedy MSCAP Technical Report 11 Submitted in December 2016 to the Historical Archaeology Laboratory, Stanford Archaeology Center, Stanford University, Stanford CA 94305 FAN AND TSAI: FOOD, IDENTITY, AND CONNECTIONS IN THE MARKET STREET CHINATOWN Jonathan Ryan Kennedy Submitted to the faculty of the University Graduate School in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Department of Anthropology Indiana University December 2016 Accepted by the Graduate Faculty, Indiana University, in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. Doctoral Committee _________________________________________ Laura L. Scheiber, Ph.D. _________________________________________ Stacie M. King, Ph.D. _________________________________________ Richard R. Wilk, Ph.D. _________________________________________ Ellen D. Wu, Ph.D. _________________________________________ Barbara L. Voss, Ph.D. October 18, 2016 ii Copyright © 2016 Jonathan Ryan Kennedy iii Acknowledgements Many countless thanks to my partner, Alyssa, for her unconditional love and support throughout this process. Despite tireless work on your own research projects and dissertation, you always found time and ways to encourage me to follow things through to the end. You also showed extreme fortitude as I filled the house with countless tubs of small mammals and fish to build my comparative skeletal collection. Most importantly you helped steer me towards a better path, and while I didn’t always make that easy I know I am a much better person for it today. This research project would not have been possible without the support of the members of the Chinese Historical and Cultural Project, History San Jose, Environmental Science Associates, and the collaborative Market Street Chinatown Archaeological Project at Stanford University. I’ve had so many fruitful and illuminating discussions with Project members, and I am truly lucky that so many people have not only taken an interest in my work but also helped to shape it for the better. The members of the Chinese Historical and Cultural Project, in particular, provided invaluable feedback and thoughts on the food data from the Market Street Chinatown, and they also generated insightful research questions which added greatly to this project. I also owe a major debt to Megan Kane for all of her critical help and assistance with this project. I was fortunate to receive funding and support for this dissertation from several sources. The Wenner-Gren Foundation for Anthropological Research generously funded this project, and an Indiana University Department of Anthropology Skomp Summer Research Fellowship supported pre-dissertation research and specimen collection. I am indebted to Gordon Chang and Shelley Fisher Fishkin for their invitation to participate in two conference and research trips to Guangdong, which were funded and sponsored by Stanford University’s Chinese Railroad Workers in North America Project. I cannot understate how important these trips were in shaping my thinking on Chinese migration and food practices, and they also provided numerous iv opportunities to collect skeletal specimens for my research. A Travel Award from the Indiana University Graduate and Professional Student Organization also supported travel to Guangdong. Numerous people generously supplied fish specimens for this project. Jon Parr, Aquatic BioSystems, and Gregory Giusti all provided important California taxa which had previously eluded me. The folks at Cook’s Seafood Market in Menlo Park, California gave me numerous fish carcasses from taxa native to the West Coast free of charge. Jeff Finch of Finch’s Brasserie in Bloomington, Indiana supplied multiple large fish carcasses and tasty meals. Henry at the Big Fisherman Seafood in New Orleans, Louisiana continues to go out of his way to supply me with a variety of fish skeletons. Kenneth Gobalet and Jenny Riley both sent me pictures of rare taxa which I ultimately could not lay my hands on. Many thanks to Laura Scheiber, my committee chair and advisor, for her continued support during my time at Indiana University. You have always encouraged my research and education, and you have played a central role in shaping my development as I have grown into something resembling a professional archaeologist. The opportunities you have provided in the William R. Adams Zooarchaeology Laboratory were truly invaluable, and they give me something to aspire for wherever I land next. I will also never forget our fieldwork in Wyoming (beautiful!) and your Problems in Zooarchaeology course (aromatic!). Finally, I am truly sorry that I said the pig was a better animal than the buffalo. Between that and filling your office with over a hundred realistic fake rubber cockroaches just days before my qualifying exams, I consider myself truly lucky to have successfully made it through this program. I would also like to thank Stacie King, Richard Wilk, and Ellen Wu, who all served as members of my dissertation committee. You have each brought something valuable and unique to my work, and your feedback has led to improvements in both this dissertation and my abilities v as a scholar. I especially appreciate the many ways that each of you have challenged me to push my ideas and interpretations outside of the archaeological norm, and though this dissertation does not always accomplish that it is something I will continue to strive for in the future. A special thanks to Barbara Voss, the Principal Investigator of the Market Street Chinatown Archaeological Project and a member of my dissertation committee. You have been continually supportive of this project, and you have gone far beyond any of my expectations in facilitating my work. Besides your project roles you have been a wonderful sounding board for my thoughts and ideas, and you have helped me greatly strengthen this project and much of my other work. I truly look forward to our continued collaboration on future projects. This project has afforded me the opportunity to develop valuable relationships with several archaeologists. Virginia Popper analyzed the macrobotanical remains for my dissertation, and we have continued to work together on several other projects; her insights are always enlightening, and they highlight the need for archaeologists to combine faunal and floral datasets. Chad Yost analyzed phytolith samples for this project, and these promise to be exciting data in future reports and publications. Leland Rogers and Frederika Kaestle undertook ancient DNA analysis on several bones from the Market Street Chinatown, and they demonstrate the value that this analytical technique can bring to the study of the recent past. Dudley Gardner and Martin Lammers braved the cold and generously provided a collection of faunal remains from Chinese railroad worker contexts at the Aspen Section Camp in Wyoming for study. I worked closely with a number of talented volunteers during my time in the William R. Adams Zooarchaeology Laboratory, and I likely learned more from them than did from me. Tamar Brendzel helped me cut my teeth analyzing the fish from the Fort Morris site, and she taught me a considerable amount about our aquatic friends. I also cannot thank Sam Couch vi enough for her countless hours of work identifying fish remains, which I shamelessly take credit for. You have been such a fantastic help throughout this project, and I mean it when I say this dissertation would have suffered dramatically without you involved. A number of friends and colleagues provided feedback and ideas, or even emotional grounding throughout this project. Matthew Rowe, Rebecca Nathan, Amanda Burtt, Kelsey Noack Myers, Alex Badillo, Eric Shattuck, Guido Pezzarossi, Heather Law Pezzarossi, and many, many more who I will ultimately be upset about leaving off of this list provided support and encouragement (or at least were willing to listen to me whine and complain). Chelsea Rose, Douglas Ross, Sarah Heffner, Christopher Merritt, Kelly Dixon, John Molenda, Mary Praetzellis, Adrian Praetzellis, Charlotte Sunseri, Mark Warner, Mary Maniery and many others provided thoughts or data which helped me develop this project. Holly Cusack-McVeigh, Eric Hamilton, Sue Hyatt, Liz Kryder-Reid, Jeremy Wilson, and the rest of the folks at IUPUI gave me a great temporary home, and they helped me develop as a professional. Connie Young Yu deserves special thanks, as she is not only a fount of knowledge but also a great travel companion. Rebecca Allen has always given me wonderful advice with a dash of acerbic humor, and Paul Mullins has unfailingly been willing to confirm that my deepest, darkest fears are justified. Anya Royce, Della Cook, and April Sievert have offered continued encouragement of my scholarship throughout my time at Indiana University. Debra Wilkerson has been a great friend and neighbor, and I also owe her an incredible debt for guiding me through graduate school. Finally, I would like to thank my parents, Brent and Robyn Kennedy and Linda and Gary Beatson. Your unfailing support and lifelong encouragement mean so much to me, and I will always be grateful. vii Jonathan Ryan Kennedy FAN AND TSAI: FOOD, IDENTITY, AND CONNECTIONS IN THE MARKET STREET CHINATOWN This study explores food consumption in the Market Street Chinatown, a 19th-century Chinese migrant community in San Jose, California. I use data collected from archaeologically-
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