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CREDO in Paderborn 2013 September 2013 9:1 Medieval Histories News about our Medieval Heritage & History

Black - Münster - Paderborn

Cultural Christians

CREDO - The Christianisation of Europe

Dying Gods - some highlights from the CREDO exhibition

Widukind - facts and fictions

Waterscape Paderborn

Medieval Histories KIMMING ApS © Photo (frontpage): News about our Paradisstien 5 Paderborn on a summerday Medieval Heritage &History DK2840 Holte © Paderborn Diocesan Museum Denmark Editor-in-chief: Karen Schousboe 2013 9:1 www.medievalhistories.com ISBN 978-87-92858-11-5 [email protected] +45 24 23 36 10

2 The Wall around Medieval Paderborn is nearly intact © Medieval Histories Black – Münster – Paderborn In Paderborn in North Western to be an invention of tradition. hounded him out. And yes, the Germany there is no need to set Bishop of Paderborn became a an alarm clock. Each morning a True, Paderborn was founded by Prince of the Empire in 1100 lord- cacophony of chiming bells greets Charlemagne in 795 and was soon ing it over a city with a Cathedral you while the view from your win- embellished by a royal palatio, a and a remarkable series of monas- dow is filled with a panorama of church and a bishopric. And yes, teries, convents and chapels. Later shining church towers towering up it was to Paderborn Pope Leo III the region – Paderborner Land high. Strolling through the streets fled to meet up with Charlemagne – was even termed “Hochstift Pad- you will be met by a series of dedi- after his enemies in Rome had erborn”, an epithet, which is still cated shops selling Catholic vest- ments and other religious para- The Bookshop belonging to the Archdiocese © Medieval Histories phernalia compete with religious bookshops, while chances are high that you meet religious persons walking around airing their cowls or veils as if a 1000 years have passed unnoticed. More Roman Catholic than Rome itself, Pader- born is definitely the Northern- most Catholic Outpost in an alien (Protestant) world. Complete with an Archbishop it is no wonder that locals in North Rhine-Westphalia grammatically compare the adjec- tive black as follows: black – Mün- ster – Paderborn! However, what shines seems more than anything 3 used locally. For instance the local born are Catholics - the Diocese local councillors greet you in the Radio is called “Radio Hochstift”. with its lay and clerical staff is street just because you are a vicar busy seeking to promote a vision – even though you belong to the However, In 1803 – 1815 Pad- of Paderborn as a latter-day Jeru- “wrong” denomination. You will erborner Land became annexed salem. For instance the Cathedral not find that easily elsewhere”! by Prussia and was redefined as regularly have Tridentine Masses Minden. At the same time the lo- said according to the Pre-Vatican- Paderborn and its exhibitions cal government was secularised, II rite, as was recently allowed by Emotions, memories and moral- the Jesuits were expelled and the former Pope Benedict. ity – all should according to the room was made for an evangeli- director of the Diocesan Museum, cal congregation, which found its Although the city also sports a Christoph Stiegemann, be evoked home in the “Abdinghofkirche”, MultiCulti Youth Centre in the in the visitor to a historical exhibi- the former Abbey-Church of the Northwest, the local administra- tion. Since 1999, when Paderborn Benedictines from the 11th cen- tors are obviously happy to go first entered the international tury. Following these changes local along, e.g. promoting and actively scene of museum blockbusters, Catholics began to evolve a new participating in organising the the aim has been exactly this: to consciousness and a new and very traditional “Libori-fest”, celebrat- inspire visitors to engage with not dogmatic Catholic counterculture. ing the patron saint of the city, as only the “past as a foreign coun- Through extensive lobbying this well as the large exhibitions in the try”, but also the moral choices, finally resulted in a reinstallation Museum of the Diocese and the which were involved in its un- of an archbishop, who found his reconstructed Ottonian Palace, folding, as well as the emotional home in a former palace, called which have come to brand the city. dilemmas posed by these choices. Dalheimer Hof in in 1930. According to the Evangelical Pas- By stressing these dimensions the tor in the Abdinghofkirche it is curators have wished to make the Today - even though no more than “peculiar to live in the 21century histories of past events emotion- 60% of the population in Pader- in a city, where the Mayor and the ally and morally pertinent to our

The Reliquary of St. Liborius is carried out of the Cathedral. More than 1 mill people take part in the festivities every summer © Michael Bogedain

4 present time. In this sense any well known amongst a wider audi- Thus, there is no doubt that the museum changes into a theatrical ence due to his emblematic status blockbuster exhibitions in Pad- scene. in the EU, the German emperor erborn as elsewhere are risky Henry IV and his controversies business. Other huge exhibition To some extent this ambition has with pope Gregory VII, which ventures like the three Otto-ex- been successful. Today Paderborn ended in the barefooted penance hibitions in Magdeburg have felt is branded as a place where huge in the snowy mountains at Canos- the same declining lack of interest. and vastly interesting medieval sa, definitely had less appeal. In 2001 the first exhibition could exhibitions are mounted in state- of-the-art surroundings – the Diocesan Museum and the reconstructed Ottonian palace just behind the Cathedral. Known to be well curated and researched, some of the most precious objects in international collections have consistently been made available as loans to these exhibitions, raising the expectations of any visitor; even those armed with only a slight foreknowledge will obviously be able to derive pleasure from this ver well curated exhibition.

However, starting with the exhibition “Charlemagne 799”, which was seen by 311.287 visitors, the number to the Canossa exhibition fell to a 190.000. According to the organisers of the present exhibition (CREDO 2013), 150.000 visitors are expected. Part of this reflects a widened supply. During 1991 – 2009 the number of museums in Germany grew by 48% while the number of visits to cultural museums grew only by 16%. But part of the development probably also reflects the choice of themes. While Charlemagne is

5 muster 300.000 visitors. The last exhibition might be. Compared exhibition in 2012 did not reach to the latest Otto-exhibition in SOURCES: even the 100.000 benchmark. Magdeburg, which had a budget of €3mill, the current exhibition So far, however, the organisers in Paderborn operates within a Christoph Stiegemann: in Paderborn have been satisfied budget of €7 mill. With a pro- “Ein Erlebnis von with the performance of CREDO jected number of visitors: 150.000 Gleichzeitig-keit“. Die 2013. Even though the exact num- and after subtracting the highest großen kunst- und kulturhis- ber of visitors has as yet not been possible income from the teller, torischen Mittelalterausstel- made available, the press office the expense is app. €5mill, most lungen in Paderborn seit tells us that the exhibition has of which have been paid by the 1999 zwischen Wissenschaft gone off to a flying start compared city of Paderborn and the The und Inszenierung. Paderborn to the Canossa exhibition in 2006. Westphalia-Lippe Regional As- 2010 More significant is the fact that sociation (LWL); all in all this may visitors are pouring in from not in a worst case scenario amount to Statisches Jahrbuch 2011. only the local region, but from all a “gift” to every visitor of app. €33. Kreis Paderborn 2012 of Germany as well as Benelux, France and Eastern Europe. Does this make sense? Yes, the organisers claim that any boost to Albrecht Steinecke: The theme of the CREDO exhibi- the business of tourism is worth Management und Marketing tion – what we believe and how we every Euro. In 2009 270.000 vis- im Kulturtourismus. Ba- all became Christians in view of ited the region of Paderborn. This siswissen – Praxisbeispiele – the combined missionary effort of generated a turnover of €78 Mill Checklisten, Wiesbaden 2012 Churches and Emperors - seems or the equivalent of €288 per trav- to have hit a raw nerve in the 21st eller. With just a minor growth “Was besichtigen wir mor- century characterised by the re- - 5-6 % or 15-20.000 - in the num- gen?” – Trends und Heraus- emergence of religious fervour ber of visitors to the city, the €5 forderungen im Kulturtour- amongst a growing segment of mill would surely be recouped in ismus. – In: Hausmann, A./ fundamentalists. the form of local business, jobs Murzik, L. (Hrsg.): Neue etc. In this crude estimate the fact Impulse im Kulturtourismus, The Economy that cultural travellers are known Wiesbaden 2011, S. 11-34 Added to these reflections it is to spend more freely, when travel- perhaps also worth mentioning ling, has not been taken into ac- the sound investment such an count.

Organising an exhibition with a budget of £7 mill is big business. © Medieval Histories

6 Churchgoing in the 21st century? Visitors are listening to an introduction to the CREDO-exhibition © Diocese Museum in Paderbor Cultural Christians Europe in the 21st century is However, according to him this dominant modes of social action known as a highly secularised does not imply that economic - from churchgoing to consumer- part of the world where people prosperity in itself causes a direct ism.” According to Hirschle “the in general have dropped out of lessening of the existential anxiety increasing provision of secular their churches or at least dimin- of affluent Europeans.A declining goods and the expanded purchas- ished their engagement in official self-assessment of modern people ing power of households, indi- religion. The question is how this as religious does not correlate viduals consume these alternative came about? Is it a reflection of precisely with rising affluence. products and engage in secular, the overall disenchantment, ratio- Instead the relationship is more rather than religious activity nalisation and bureaucratisation, complex. “Religious values… are schemes.” which has taken place in the 20th fairly persistent and decline only century? Or are there other expla- marginally as GDP rises,” he says Very fundamentally this has re- nations? Hence “with income development sulted in a situation, where people individuals increasingly engage instead of being limited by what This conundrum has been investi- in consumption related practices, is on offer in the local church, get gated by the social scientist Jochen while traditional religious ac- the possibility to shop for intellec- Hirschle, who in a series of bril- tivities, contexts and symbols lose tual nourishment in a wide variety liant essays has analysed the co- their significance as mediators for of contexts. variation between data from the social action”. Instead consump- European Social Survey concern- tion becomes geared towards what The exhibitions in Paderborn ing religious faith and behavioural various competing players like In the Archdiocese in Paderborn patterns, plus accounts of the cinemas, libraries, art institutions, in Western Germany they have gross domestic product in 82 re- museums etc., can offer: a steady obviously thought long and hard gions from 20 European countries. alternative intellectual nourish- about this. And have come up In this analysis he has shown how ment and mental stimuli. with the idea of competing with all there there is a marked correlation these new cultural market-leaders between on one hand the affluence Hirschle’s research simply indicate in the modern affluent society. and economic prosperity of people “that increases in gross domestic Using the Archdiocese Museum and on the other hand their de- product lead to religious decline as the primus motor in a series clining religious fervour. primarily by supplanting the of ingenious exhibitions of which 7 SOURCES:

Jochen Hirschle: The affluent society and its religious consequences: an empirical investigation of 20 European countries. In: Socio-Economic Review (2011) Volume 9, Issue 2, Pp. 261-285.

Secularization of Conscious- ness” or Alternative Op- portunities? The Impact of Economic Growth on Reli- Bundespräsident Gauck at the opening of the CREDO Exhibition, Pader- gious Belief and Practice in born 2013 © Diocese Museum in Paderborn 13 European Countries In: Journal for the Scien- CREDO is the culmination so far, missionary effort. We have wished tific Study of Religion (2013) the museum has simply tried to to seduce the cultured museum- Volume 52, Issue 2, pages enter this market. visitor not just to be awed by the 410–424 splendid pieces of art, but also to A New Mission? get a sense of the context, in which Is the exhibition in itself part of a they were created and used. And missionary effort, we asked? “Yes hence to get a sense of why Chris- reflecting a beautiful blue mo- definitely, answered the director tianity became this unstoppable saic from above, reminding us all of the Diocese Museum, Profes- flood, blazing a trail through the about the baptism of Jesus, where sor Christoph Stiegemann, at a world. For this reason the very it all began. And our baptism”, he press meeting. “Credo is part of a first thing, which the visitor en- concludes. counters is a font, filled with water,

Deliberately letting the museum shadow the Cathedral. Paderborn 2013 © Diocese Museum in Paderborn

8 CREDO – The Christianisation of Europe

CREDO is a marvellous exhibition chicken to the shed and cut off its is first met with a becalming in- currently underway in Paderborn head. Visitors may thus look long stallation, reminding us all of the in North Western Germany. Here but not find anything about the beginning – the baptism. High up a bonanza of medieval treasures Christianisation, which took place is a digital rendering of the blue is on show until the 11th of No- in the New World post 1500; also mosaic from the cupola of one of vember, reflecting the fervour of the myriad of encounters with the earliest existing baptisteries in the curators, who must have pe- Islam have been carefully weeded Italy from Albenga in Liguria. This titioned, cajoled or even begged out. (Though rumour has it this mosaic showing the Chi Ro float- to be able to show all these mas- will be the focus for the next great ing in the sky and venerated by a terpieces in one sweeping exhibi- endeavour of the museums of flight of doves is reflected below tion located in three venues: The Paderborn). However, these “mis- in the still waters of a baptismal Archdiocese Museum next to the sing” perspectives do not diminish font, inviting us all to dip our fin- Cathedral of Paderborn, the re- the experience. gers and “rearrange “ the mosaic constructed Ottonian Palace at the according to our dreams. This is back and the local Art Museum LUX MUNDI flanked to one side of a digitally to the East. All within walking The first part of the exhibition is rendered porticus of a Temple. On distance, visitors are invited to called Lux Mundi and is in the the other side hovering above is visit all three locations one after Diocese Museum. Here the visitor yet another digital rendering of a the other. But be warned, you will wish to spend more time on the The Golden disc from Limons. From the 7th century and of Frankish- two first parts and you might even Alemannish origin it mixes pagan and Christian symbols in a complex wish to visit the first part of the manner. © Paris, Bibliothek Nationale - Cabinet des Medailles exhibition several times.

The cultural-historical exhibition explores the Christianisation of Medieval Europe, covering as- pects such as the foundations of the missionary church, its spread through the Roman Empire, the Christianisation of Ireland, the conversion of the Anglo-Saxons, the missionary initiatives from the British Isles to the Continent, and the Christianisation of first Sax- ony, later Scandinavia and of East- ern and Central Europe. However, visitors are not invited to consider Christianisation as one sweeping and uni-dimensional development. Instead, we are invited to reflect upon (some of) the very diverse ways in which the Chris- tian Church evolved from ca. 200 – 2000 AD. It stands to reason the curators have at some point taken the 9 tional, doctrinal as well as liturgi- cal development.

However, the point is on the missionary effort of the church and the many symbolic as well as vio- lent encounters with the “others”, which this caused.

IN HOC SIGNO This becomes especially pertinent in the second part of the exhibition, which is located in the reconstructed Ottonian palace, which lies just behind the Cathedral. This was raised upon the foundations of the palace, which Charlemagne built in the late 8th century, when he constructed a regional centre in the newly conquered Saxony complete with a royal hall, a church and a bishopric. Paderborn was simply the centre from where the enforced Christianisation of the pagan Saxons was conducted, which later led to the conquering of the rest of Eastern and Central Europe.

Very aptly the title of this second installation - “In hoc signio” – reflects the story of how Constantine the Great defeated his stronger but The Letter to Romans from St. Paul AD 200 pagan rival, Maxentius, in the fa- © The Trustees of the Chester Beatty Library, Dublin mous battle of the Milvian Bridge. According to Eusebius the sign of mosaic from the 4th century from heady mixture of Christian and the Chi Ro came to Constantine in Santa Pudenziana in Rome, show- pagan treasures reaching from a vision in a sky. Later he painted ing Christ teaching his disciples. Byzantium all across Europe to the it on the Labarum, the Roman Vikings in Greenland. To answer standard, which was carried into Underneath is the first breath- the question: In the beginning as the battle – which he won! taking exhibit: A papyrus from the well as later on, someone was defi- beginning of the 3rd century with nitely against each other. The same way of thinking seems a text from the Letter to the Ro- to have characterised Char- mans by St. Paul. The leaf belongs This is not to say that the exhibi- lemagne in his efforts to subdue to a manuscript holding the oldest tion exclusively traces the many his unruly neighbours the Saxons, collection of his letters and ren- clashes between the new Christian which kept rebelling from 772 ders the legible text of the verses faith and its many competitors, to 804. All in all 18 battles were 27 – 35 from chapter 8. Amongst from the Mithraic mysteries to the fought here in North Western these is the famous quote: If God pagan sacrificial cult. A lot of the Germany starting with the first, is for us, who can be against us? A exhibits in fact tell the story of the whereby he conquered Paderborn very good question since the next continuous consolidation of the and nearby Irminsul, named as 800 artefacts actually represent a new church in terms of organisa- the primary heathen sanctum. 10 The rebuilt Ottonian Palace in Paderborn from the mid 10th century, the current Pfalz-Museum. © LWL-presse-photos

Most infamous was the campaign which was later kept in the church Art Gallery where an art exhibi- in around 782, when Charlemagne of Enger as a relic of Widukinds. tion raises the question: Quo va- issued a capitulary promising the Probably it became part of the dis? Here we are goaded to explore Saxons a choice between baptism treasures in Enger after queen the different perspectives and or death (exhibit no. 362). The Mathilde (a descendant of Widu- interpretations – histories – which same year he is said to have had kinds) founded a collegiate there rulers, artists and designer have 4500 Saxon rebels executed in one commemorating his (probable) proffered in order to give their day at the so-called Blood Court burial place there. own spin on the history told in of Verden. Without doubt later the two first instalments. To say Crusades took some inspiration QUO VADIS? the least, most of what is exhibited from these events. This story is Finally we are invited to exit and here has the character of kitsch. told in a parade of a fantastic se- walk to the entrance of the Local Not necessarily mass produced, ries of treasures from Eastern and Central Europe. Widukind’s Baptismal Bowl. Part of the treasure of St. Dionysius Although difficult to choose inEnger,where Widukind is said to have been buried, it was taken to Ber- amongst all these, one of the lin in the 19th century. most evocative pieces might just © Berlin, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin – Preußischer Kulturbesitz, be the so-called baptismal bowl Kunstgewerbe - Museum, Inv.Nr. K 3672. Foto: Sarturia Linke of Widukinds from the treasury of St. Dionysius in Enger. Widu- kind was the famous leader of the Saxon rebellions until he sur- rendered in 785 and according to Annales Mosellani was baptised with Charlemagne as his Godfa- ther. At that occasion a series of magnificent gifts were said to have honoured him. Amongst these may have been a late antique stone bowl made out of Serpentine,

11 but never the less designed to en- chant the popular masses.

Not least is this the case with the “reuse” of the story of Irminsul by the Nazis, who tried to create a fascist sanctum out of the Extern- steine, a medieval relief, believed to have been carved celebrating the triumph of Christianity where the Saxons had their rumoured heathen temple.

Quite interesting, but if you are pressed for time, we suggest you skip this and do yet another tour through the first exhibition in the Diocesan Museum. Walking back and forth between the two first parts allows you to see not only the details of the many wonders collected, but also to get a feeling for the grand story of the Chris- tianisation of Europe. Another option is to head out for the Ex- ternsteine themselves and enjoy the magnificent scenery there. The Externsteine are a distinctive rock formation located in the district of Lippe within the German state of North Rhine-Westphalia, not far from The dare of it all! It is indeed a the city of Paderborn. The Nazis believed it was the site of the heathen remarkable exhibition showcasing sanctum of the Saxons and used the bent palmtree on the right of the cross more than 800 exquisite pieces of as inspiration for their reconstruction of the “Irminsul” mentioned in the art and history, carefully chosen Royal Frankish Annals for 772. The stonecarvings are generally said to from our common European heri- date from 1150 - 70. © Nikater - Wiki 2008 tage. But it is also a challenge to us all to tell the history of that which really unites us: Christianity. our diversity. However, something tory and heritage. more unites us than just the ubiq- Why missionize? uitous MultiCulti Youth centres, But why do people come to believe It seems unfashionable in this which are creeping up everywhere a change in their religious adher- time and day, when the European - even in the backwater of Pader- ence might be advantageous? For elite is busy propagating the idea born. This “something” is without a long time scientific studies of that our common denominator is doubt our common Christian his- religion have tried to decide ex-

CREDO Read more: – Christianisierung Eu- www.credo-ausstellung.de ropas im Mittelalter CREDO - Christianisierung Paderborn in Germany im Mittelalter 1 - 2. 26.07.2013 – 03.11.2013. 1400 pages in German, Fully Audioguides are available in illustrated.Michael Imhof English Verlag 2013

12 actly what pushes people in one • People also seem to convert or the other direction. Very, very the more they are offered in- roughly there seem to be two tense religious beliefs concern- competing explanations. Either ing an after-life – and perhaps they are pushed towards changing guidance to a corresponding their affiliation by politics or even religious way of life by suppression – or they get pulled • Part of this seems to be that by missionaries doing their best in the better educated, people a pluralistic religious economy. are, the more prone to conver- But what works the best - mission- sion, they seem to be. izing or politicking? • However, if the powers in Looking at scientific studies of place try to restrict conversion, religion carried out during the last it will have an impact. It does 50 years (and for the most part ei- matter if for instance people ther published or reviewed in the are persecuted, if they convert “Journal for the Scientific Study of (or not). religion; and have made their Religion”) some conclusions might • However, it does not seem as choices. now be reached: if conversion is necessarily related to economics as such: Thus the conversion of Europe to • In a given locality (region or people do not convert because Christianity was the result of both country) religious pluralism they become wealthier. brilliant thinkers and dedicated seems to engender a higher rate missionaries as well as hell-bent of conversion; if possibilities What might this mean for our kings; which is exactly the story abound, people seem to take understanding of the history of we are told by CREDO: the cur- them. Christian conversion in Europe? rent exhibition in Paderborn and • Especially this is the case if one which just might be worth pon- of the contenders is peddling a In fact very little! Both procedures dering for church-leaders in the monotheistic religion; it sim- seem to have been followed and 21st century. ply makes more sense to stake both seem to have had remarkable everything on one almighty results. At any time people have Congratulations to Paderborn for God than on a panoply of lesser gauged both the costs of switching being ready to tell us this grand (and competing Gods). as opposed to keeping the “wrong” story! And with such success! Worth a world-travel… Scenes from a manuscript showing St. Bonifatius baptizing and being killed. Fulda, Anf. 11. Jh. (Msc.Lit.1, fol. 126v). ©Staatsbibliothek Bamberg READ MORE:

The Oxford Handbook of the Economics of Religion. Ed- ited by Rachel M. McCleary Oxford University Press 2011. ISBN: 9780195390049

Religious Conversion in 40 Countries. By Robert Barro, Jason Hwang and Rachel Mc- Cleary. In: The Journal of the Scien- tific Study of religion 2010, vol 49 (1): 15 – 36. 13 Dying Gods - some highlights from the CREDO -exhibition

To call them pagans or heathens is problematic. Nevertheless, such were the epithets used by Chris- tians while conquering and mis- sionising the “others” in Germania and further North from 300 AD and unwards.

But what did they “believe” in and how was their world-view con- strued? Such questions are in no way new, nor has there been any lack since Tacitus of competing ethnographic endeavors to try and encompass their “orther-world- liness”. It stands to reason that current research cannot consist of anything but accumulating layers of yet more detailed studies of tiny fragments. Nevertheless, when- ever such explorations deal with new archaeological finds and tries to contextualise them in older research traditions something new may occasionally crop up.

For this reason new archaeological finds have apparently been allowed to play such a marked role in the exhibition, CREDO, currently on show in Paderborn, while a select group of scientists, - the Sachsensymposion – has been invited to hold their 64th interna- Collection of Bracteates. The one in the bottom left corner shows the death tional meeting in Paderborn dur- of Baldr with Odin trying to save him from the machinations of Loke ing september 2013. © National Museum in Copenhagen

Bracteates of the conference it appears that their motives originally were made Uppmost on the agenda at the nowadays it is more the context as copies of Roman medallions Sachsensymposion is the ongoing of the bracteates, which seem to showing emperors. Little by little reflection upon the iconography interest the archaeologists, art- the iconography shifted finally of the bractates, which since the historians and philologists than ending up in what we understand massive work of the medieval his- the bracteates themselves. as a bracteate: a golden medallion torian, Karl Hauck has continued or amulet decorated in Nordic to occupy the effort of the inter- Even though it is definitely con- style I with iconic content typi- national team, he gathered around tested most will agree to some cally showing the death of Balder, him. However, from the program extent that the bracteates with Thor with his hand in the mouth 14 of the Fenris wulf or (very often) contested interpretations by Karl Odin trying to save the dying foal Hauck and his team. of Balder by blowing into its ear. It has been estimated that more It seems superflous to stress that than 100.000 bracteates were once these interpretations by Karl in existence. With a mere 1000+ Hauck have been highly contested. bracteates known, spanning 600 The pictures and narratives on different bracteate models (as the bracteates were condensed counted 2010), it seems reasonable into clever pictorial codes by the that new information will keep goldsmiths responsible for the cropping up. matrices (see overview by Wicker and Williams 2013 on the debates) It is also a fact that the known turning it into a highly specialised bracteates can be rather easily ca- effort to understand the deeper tegorised and stylistically grouped Bracteate from Uppåkra in meaning of the iconography . together, although they must have Sweeden from the late 5th century. been produced inside a timespan Gold 2.4 cm in diameter. Lund Recently, however, one of these covering a couple of hundred University Museum No U209465 interpretations have been thor- years. This has led a scholar like oughly confirmed by new finds Alexandra Pesch to characterise sphere reaching from Southern from Bornholm (Axboe 2007: the bractates as a kind of tightly Germany to Norway with outliers 153) raising the hope that further controlled brands identifying lo- found in Anglo-saxon graves from finds may vindicate other more cal elites inside a common cultural the migrationary period.

Uppåkra catalogue is once again more deci- Probably it was what is called a Faithful to the concept of the ex- sive than the Runic scholars might high-timbered house supporting hibition we are not treated to a accept offhand. (At least accord- an elevated roof. With slightly comprehensive show of the differ- ing to the original presentation of curving stave walls the building ent bracteates, although they play the find, see Axboe and Stoklund, had three entrances and the re- such a prominent role in our un- 2003) mains of a hearth. derstanding of the world-view or the Germanic and Scandinavian Instead we are treated to a unique Inside this building metaldetectors people in Early Medieval Europe. presentation of the bracteate (ex- uncovered not only a very rich hibit no 271 – 281) in the nearest deposit of gold-foil-figures (small Actually only one is shown, of thing we can come to a recreated stamped gold emblems) but also Type C . According to the cata- heathen sanctum: the temple from two totally unique vessels, a metal logue the bracteate shows Odin Uppåkra, a central place located beaker with embossed foil bands riding his horse Schleipner. Ac- somewhat inland in Scania near and a magnificent glass bowl with cording to Hauck it is rather Odin the later metropolis, Lund. The a clear underlayer and a cobalt trying to save the Balder’s horse. building in question was com- blue overlay. Both have been dated What we can see is a man with a pared to other ceremonial halls to around 4 - 500 AD but were very elaborate hairstyle – plaited (more properly called “sala or obviously in use for a long time, and decorated with jewels and a sals” as in Uppsala) rather small, before they were carefully depos- diadem - riding a horse, in whose measuring only 13.5 x 6 meter. In ited some time after 750 AD. From ear he whispers. What makes the the interior four large postholes stylistic grounds it is believed the bracteate intriguing is its runic showed how the roof must have beaker was produced locally, while inscriptions which just might be been supported by heavy post the glass bowl may have been im- understood as alu (beer) and wine (more properly called “suler” or ported from the region around the (sima?ina). However, here the “søjler”, hence “sal”, cf. “Irminsul”.) Black Sea. What role they played 16 chamber-burial of a man dated from the end of the 6th and the beginning of the 7th century. The tomb was originally a deep walled chamber, but the walls had later caved in. The chamber was luxuri- ously furnished with a hanging bowl, other feasting equipment, drinking horns, a folding (imperial) stool, buckets, a sword and a lyre plus more than a 100 other objects. One of these was a Byzan- tine spoon with an engraved cross in the bowl. Another feature was of course the famous golden foil- cross, which were placed on top of his eyes. Thus the grave contained The reconstruction of the Prittlewell grave clear signs of Christianity while © The Diocese Museum in Paderborn at the same time presenting the deceased in his familiar surround- in the rituals which must have Archaeologists agree that the ings – a hall equipped for festivi- taken place there? We shall prob- building must have been some ties: music, drinking and compan- ably never know. kind of sacred abode for the gods, ionship. In 2004 a monograph of thus laying to rest the old assump- the burial of the Prittwell Prince One very interesting thing about tion that the heathen Germans was published. However at the the small house is that it was and Scandinavians prayed and current Sachsensymposion new continually rebuilt from the early sacrificed to their gods in sacred research concerning the grave is Roman Age and up until the early groves in the open. This has wet- to be presented. In the CREDO- Viking Age, 9 times in all. And ted their appetite to try and iden- exhibtion a reconstruction of his further that is was circled by pe- tify similar sanctums. So far this burial chamber may be seen (ex- culiarly rich heaps of sacrificed has yielded a series of contenders, hibit no 153 – 162) weapons and a residue of “blóted” cf. cultic houses at both Tissø and (sacrificed) animals mixed with Lejre in Denmark located near the The trend is clear. We have decid- human bones. large mead-halls as well as a pre- edly moved from an understand- Christian cult place at Ranheim in Trøndelag in Norway from the The layout of the dead from the 4th to the 10th century. Probably Crosses made of gold-foil and Prittlewell grave more locations will be identified placed upon the eyes © The Diocese Museum in Pader- in the coming years complete with © Southend Museums Service , No. born large halls and small heathen cul- EX-PR003[168] 11-12 tic houses-

Prittlewell Another significant place where new and exciting finds from 2003 have contributed to a more fluid understanding of the process of Christianisation, is Prittlewell. Located in Essex a series of Anglo- Saxon graves were excavated here already in 1930/31. However in 2003 a couple of more graves were discovered, including an intact

ing of the heathen pagans as One of these buckles from Ein- The scene itself is quite enigmatic. primitive earth-bound pantheists ville-au-Jard is shown (exhibit no. In the centre a bearded man is sit- and nature-dwellers to neigbours 108), but it is lying there curiously ting on a throne, who is blessing parading a highly sophisticated re- decontextualised. These buckles a man in front of him holding a ligious life complete with shaman- made of bronze are quite large shepherds crook or a crosier. An- ism and a practice caracterised by and known for their “christian other man is apparently waiting a sacrificial thinking; and with a narratives”. The one from Einville- in line. Behind the sitting man is a discerning eye for the “opposition” au-Jard was found in 1863 in a third waiting, also holding a crook – the Christian Faith. grave of a warrior together with or crosier. All three are dressed in his lance, sax, two knives, a speer, quilts (?) and presumably girded The Burgundian Belt Buckles a sword, two arrowheads and a with swords. In the catalogue the Nowhere is this more evident in key. It measures 6.3 x 14.5 x 1.5 third man is described as a carry- a renewed evalutation of the so- and must have been quite heavy to ing the crosier of the man who is called plaque-bucles which have carry around the waist. In the hol- sitting on the throne, who is iden- been found in graves dating from low compartment was later found tified as an abbott. However the the migration period in a Burgun- a lock of hair wrapped in a piece question remains why the other dian and merovingian context. of cloth; by some believed to be a two men who are queuing up for a hibition. relic. blessing should carry crociers too?

18 Maybe they are just staffs and the overcomes the Beasts of the Dark such contextualised finds as the people lining up, pilgrims? And turned on him by Loke. Thus it Prittwell grave but also the ap- if clericals, why are they are not appears that the Myth of Balder’s parent discourses going on in the dressed in long clerical robes? And death and the following death of prominent buckle-fashion of the how come a serious warrior armed the Nordic Gods was central to Burgundians. to his teeth should carry a “cleri- the religious beliefs of the Early cal” buckle? And maybe the hair Medieval Germanic people in the Indeed a collaboration amongst in the “reliquary” is just the left- migration period, not only in the archaeologist publishing these overs of a vanquished enemy (to North as witnessed by the bracte- buckles and their rich narra- cut or rip somebody’s hair out was ates but also in the early Burgun- tive iconography on the internet one of the ultimate denigrations, dian Kingdom. should be high on the internation- which according to the secular al agenda for migration-period laws might befall a Burgundian in Concluding that these migration- archaeologists. the early Middle Ages? age buckles may turn out to be yet another rich mine for our know- Bracteates, beakers and buckles New research by Michael P. Spei- ledge of the Germanic Goods, - all seem to pay when diligently del has shown that some other Speidel sees them as complement- explored under the microscope, bucles which have formerly been ing the work done by Karl Hauck thus enriching our understanding understood as depicting Daniel and his team on the bracteates. of the heathens from their own amongst the Lions, are instead de- It might be very fruitful to exa- point of perspective. picting Balder’s Helway or how he mine not only the syncretism of Sources: Bracteates: York: De Gruyter. 2011. ISBN Prittlewell: Studies in Gold Bracteates. 978 3 11 022411 5 The Prittlewell Prince: The By Morten Axboe Discovery of a rich Anglo- In: Series: Nordiske Fortids- Uppåkra and other tem- Saxon Burial in Essex. By Sue minder 2007, Ser. B, Vol. 25, Hirst. Museum of London ples: pp 141 - 158 Archaeology, Oxbow 2004 Horg, hov and vé – a pre- Published by: Det Kongelige ISBN: 9781901992526 Christian cult place at Tran- Nordiske Oldskriftselskab, heim in Trøndelag, Norway, Copenhagen in the 4th -10th century. By Burgundian Belt Buckles Preben Rønne Burgundian Gods on Sixth- Bracteates and Runes. Review In: Adoranten 2011, p. 79 – Century Belt Buckles. By Article. By Wicker, Nancy L. 92. Michael P. Speidel. and Henrik Williams: In: Frühmittelalterliche Stu- In: Futhark. International Old Norse Religion in long- dien 2012. Volume 45, Issue Journal of Runic Studies vol term Perspectives. By Anders 1, Pages 1–36 3, 2013, p. 151 - 213. Andrén, Kristina Jennbert, (Recent review of the work of Catharina Raudvere (Eds) Sogenannte Klerikerschnal- Karl Hauck and his interna- Nordic Academic press 2006 len. Zur Interpretation me- tional team and their series of ISBN: 978-9189116818 rowingerzeitlicher Gürtels- publications) chnallen mit rechteckigem Continuity for Centuries. A Beschlag. By Dorothea Die Goldbrakteaten der Völk- Ceremonial Building and its In: Miscellanea Archaeologi- erwanderungszeit – Auswer- Context at Uppåkra, Souther ca. Aufsätze zur Archäologie tung und Neufunde. Edited Sweeden. By Lars Larsson von der Bronzezeit bis zum by Wilhelm Heizmann and (Ed). In: Acta Archaeo- Hochmittelalter. Ed. by Dirk Morten Axboe . Ergänzungs- logica Lundensia, Series in 80 Vorlauf und Thilo F. Warneke bände zum Reallexikon der Stockholm 2004. (69-87). Verlag Marie Leidorf Germanischen Altertum- GmbH 1997 skunde 40. Berlin and New 19 Widukind - Facts and Fiction Unux ex primoribus Westfalorum – one of the first from Westphalia. This is the epithet Widukind is given in 777, when we are told by the Frankish Annals that he did not take part in the great assembly in Paderborn, but instead had fled to the Danes finding refuge with King Siegfried there. Again in 782 we hear he was absent from another assembly at Lippequellen near Paderborn. Instead he achieved a major victory over the Carolin- gians at Süntel, where a Frankish army attacked his forces. Accord- ing to the revised edition of the Annals (and echoing Livy), the losses were hefty and two military leaders, four counts and up to twenty distinguished nobles were killed.

During the next years Widukind seems to have been the rallying point of the Saxon rebellion, which was perhaps fed by the dra- conian measures of Charlemagne’s as stipulated in the “Capitulatio de Partibus Saxoniae” and carried out a the Blodbath in Verden.

Not much is known about the actual role of Widukind in the next few years except it seems he con- Inventing a tradition: The portrait of Widukind from the tomb, which was tracted with the Frisians and con- erected in the 12th century at Enger © Urlaub-im-Web.de tinued to associate with the Danes. However, in 785 Charlemagne After which the rest is silence. Ac- responsible for installing a col- spent the winter in Eresburg and cording to the traditional myth lege of canons at Enger in 947, to led a series of attacks on encamp- Widukind may have gone to Enger which was donated some inheri- ments and other strongholds all (north of Paderborn) as a local ted land in the neighbourhood. through Saxony. Finally in Barden- magnate or - as has been sug- Enger is located 100 km south of gau up north he sent for Widukind gested by some later German His- Wildeshausen, where a nephew and his brother-in-law Abbio and torians - entered the Monastery of of Widukind built a church and a started on negotiations. Apparently Reichenau. We simply don’t know. monastery in 807. a truce was struck, Charlemagne sent hostages and Widukind and Whatever his fate, he was claimed The church of St. Dionysius. Abbio went to Attigny, where they as an ancestor by queen Matilda of Sometime during the High Middle were baptised “with their com- Ringelheim (895 - 968 ) who was ages, Enger became identified as panions” and where Charlemagne married to the duke of Saxony, the last burial ground of the rebel- acted as Godfather. later Henry I of Germany. She was lious duke. 20 In 1971 archaeological excavations were carried out in Enger in the former church of St. Dionysius.

Undeneath the present church the foundations of the first church were found. With a nave measuring 14.6 x 6.5 meter and a square chancel 4.7 x 4.7 it was a small church. However, built on an broad foundation of stones and with an elevated choir it was in no way a plain construction. The church had obviously been used for burials. Quite remarkable were three graves found in the former choir placed on either side of the altar and in front: two elderly men and a young one. Obviously these graves can be dated to the building The Museum in Enger is located in an old half-timbered house of the church from around 800. © Urlaub-im-Web.de Anthropological investigations showed that both men had severe The Nazis at Enger Germany focusing on how to de- lesions on their spines, caused by Founded in 1938 the museum in fine the “Reich”. Was it a popular continuous riding throughout life. Enger was originally part of the Volksgemeinschaft with pagan Nazi veneration of Widukind. This roots and symbolised in Widukind Naturally this excavation fuelled played a fascinating part in the the warrior? Or was it a State with the imaginations of the locals, who formation of the ideology in the roots in the Holy Roman Empire wanted to identify the two men nascent third Reich. as founded by Charlemagne? Who with Widukind and his friend or was to be the hero? kinsman Abbio. Today this has As per definition totalitarian states resulted in a renewed interest in should be without controversies. This fascinating story has very the local Widukind-museum. Nevertheless an intense and very recently been explored in a bril- public conflict broke out in Nazi- liant essay by Peter Lambert (Ab- erytswyth University) on “Duke Archaeological Excavations in st. Dionysius in Enger Widukind and Charlemagne in © Photo: Harald Wurm Twentieth-Century Germany”. In the article he tells the story of how a quarrel over the two op- posing “heroes” kept the German elite occupied in the 30ies. On one hand a dedicated group of neo- pagan Nazis kept rallying in Enger and at the nearby Externsteine erecting memorials and statues as well as flooding the market with historicizing fictions of a hilarious kind (had it not been so deplor- ably amoral). On the other hand historians tried to toe the dilemmas of squaring these fictions with the actual facts. The question was of course: how do you write the 21 a sacred Nazi pagan stone-circle. (The place may still be visited!) SOURCES: In the end, however, Hitler put a stop to it at the Nuremberg rally, where he in his didactic Regine Krull: fashion explained to the people, Das Widukind Museum that “they” were the result of the Enger: Geschichtsbilder intervention of the State and not zwischen seriosität, Kult the instigators of said state. Hence und Marketing. Paper pre- Charlemagne was the German sented at a meeting at the hero par excellence, since he had “Deutschen Museumsbund” de facto created the embryo of the 2011. “Reich”, which was now to culmi- www.museumsbund. nate through the Nazi’s. de/fileadmin/fg_gesch/ Votraege_u_Publika- Part of this story of the construc- tionen/2011_Krull_Vortrag_ tion of the so-called “völkischen in_Berlin_mit_Bildern_.pdf Weltanschauung” is told in the present exhibition (2013) in Pad- Regine Krull: erborn in the local Art Gallery Warrior, Christian and Leg- (CREDO: Quo vadis?). Part can endary Hero - Our Heritage The Widukind Memorial in Enger be studied through local photos in of Widukind, Duke of Saxo- the Widukind-Museum in Enger, from 1903 was also a war-memori- ny, Herford 2008 al. Photo Klaus Hansen which in itself was the result of the “Heimatsgefühl” or “Sense history of Germany if you banish of Homeland”, which fed the lo- Peter Lambert: the story of Charlemagne and his cal patriots of Saxony. (A trip to Duke Widukind and Charle- aftermath from the curriculum? Paderborn this autumn might be magne in Twentieth-Century In 1934 – 35 it all culminated in fruitfully accompanied by a drive Germany. Myths of origin Himmler and Rosenberg erecting up to Enger.) and Constructs of National a massive memorial at Verden, in Identity. the spot where Charlemagne was Some of these photos show the In: Rethinking the Space said to have executed 4500 Saxons. celebrations, which took place at for Religion: New Actors in For each of these victims a huge the inauguration of the Museum Central and Souteast Europe stone was raised making it into in 1938. It appears this first muse- on Religion, Authenticity and um was furnished as a sacred spot Belonging. Ed. by Catharina The new Widukind memorial in with an inner sanctum equipped Raudvere, Krzystof Stala and Enger - The Widukind Well by with an altar topped with a quota- Trine Stauning Willert. Eberhard Hellinge in Enger, 1994 tion from Hitler. Nevertheless, at Nordic Academic press 2013. Photo: Klaus Hansen) that point the more prominent Nazis had chosen another path. Now it was no longer a question of the embarrassment became so mounting a résistance against the tangible, the locals felt, something (depraved) French (Jews) led by more had to be done. In 1983 a Charlemagne; rather the focus was new museum opened showing a on the conquest of Europe from didactic and scientifically based one end to the other. Enger was presentation of the Saxon wars left in peace by Berlin. and the role of Widukind. Very soon this approach also felt dated. The New Museum Finally in 2006 a new museum After the war, the Museum natu- was fitted out – this time as a rally had to be de-nazified. How- place where not only the history ever, it took nearly 30 years until of Widukind per se was told, but 22 also the history of the mythos of Widukind.

From the very early hero-worship- ping in the 12th century and up until now, where Widukind has been turned into a modern, peace- loving pilgrim on his lonely way to Attigny by the sculptor Eberhard Hellinge 1994, the museum gives a good and up-to-date introduction to Widukind, the phenomena. Very properly Attigny has been gifted with a copy of this statue.

The Lost Treasure of Enger The description of Widukind’s baptism in the Royal Frankish An- nals is somewhat terse. We hear about the hostages presented by Charlemagne in order to secure the surrender of the two leaders of the Saxon rebellion and we hear they were baptised in Attigny – not at a public show in Saxony. We have to turn to one of the minor annals (the Annales Mosellani) in order to get a more fleshed out The Enger Reliquary description of what (perhaps) took © Genevra Kornbluth 2010. By kind permission by place. Here we are told how “the www.kornbluthphoto.com king lifted him up of the baptismal font and honoured him with mag- to the small museum in Enger, and just might have been one of nificent gifts” (Annales Mosellani where a special exhibition is be- “the magnificient gifts” presented 785, MGH SS 16, 497) ing mounted this winter showing to Widukind, is the so-called parts of the treasure of St. Diony- Enger Reliquary. Unfortunately Tradition has it, that some of these sius and the stories behind the dif- this precious piece of metalwork gifts were kept in Enger and later ferent pieces of art. is not up for loan. The Museum in came to be included in what is Berlin has declared its fragility is called “The Dionysian Treasure”. In 1888 an inventory showed 32 such that it has to undergo conser- From here they were transferred pieces were sent to Berlin. Today, vation. to Herford in 1441. Where they however only 18 still exist (the rest were kept in the sacristy of St. Jo- were lost during the war). Famous hannes. In the middle of the 19th amongst them are the baptismal The Lost Treasure of century the city tried to sell the bowl of Widukinds, which is cur- Engers – or the story of treasure several times. In the end rently on show in Paderborn and the Dionysius Treasure. Berlin expropriated the different then moves on to Enger. But also a pieces of art. Today they are kept small pyxis of ivory from the 10th in the “Berliner Kunstgewerbemu- century will be shown in Enger as Enger Museum seum”. well as several pieces of late medi- Kirchplatz 10 eval art. 32130 Enger Currently this is under recon- 17.11.2013 – 21.04.2014 struction. Accordingly some pie- One piece – which definitely dates www.widukind-museum- ces of the treasure have been lent from the end of the 8th century – enger.de 23 Waterscape Paderborn Paderborn was nearly totally de- the Saxons as the location for a stroyed in air raids in the winter “general assembly”. Such occa- and spring of 1945. Even though sions usually took place in May the city has been meticulously re- and gathered bishops, abbots and built, the charm of the city is not counts from his whole realm. With so much its architectural heritage their respective retinues they often as is its layout and surroundings. functioned as a preface to the up- coming military campaign of the As it stands today the inner city is season. Such assemblies must have encircled by the remnants of a me- gathered many thousand men in dieval wall, which it is possibly to the same location, calling for at walk along nearly all the way. But least two important prerequisites: choose as far as possible the path water and flat land. Both abound or small road on the inner-side. in and around Paderborn. Outside the noise and smell from the ring road is really annoying. In the cellar of the rebuilt Ot- tonian Palace the central spring, This wall was built around the which furnished the “Domburg” medieval city, which grew gradu- may still be seen. Nowadays it A pleasant walk around the city ally up after the year 1000 around simply flows out from below © Medieval Histories the central “Domburg”, a walled the reconstructed palace wall of complex dating back to the end of the museum. However in Char- the 8th century. This was conve- lemagne’s time, his new palace was traditional way into the fortress niently placed on top of a hill next built next to the spring, which ran was from the south. Here the visi- to a swampy area fed by scores of freely down the slope. Walking up tor – or rather the emissary to the springs. to the palace and cathedral com- assembly – would have entered an plex from northwest you may get open space leading directly to the Paderborn is first mentioned in a sense of the watery landscape, protruding balcony, from where 777 after the opening military which enclosed the original layout; we must imagine Charlemagne campaign of Charlemagne against although of course the proper and lording it, while being venerated

Charlemagne’s Palace in Paderborn 799. Digital Reconstruction by Archimedix GbR (dipl.ing. Architektur, Rein- hard Munzel), Ober-Ramstadt, Juni 2013 © Paderborn, Museum in der Kaiserpfalz – Ausstellungsgesellschaft Paderborn mbH

24 extent he was responsible for re- hill to feed the shortest river in all building the cathedral as well as Germany, the Pader. several other churches and monas- teries in the city: the Benedictine “Live by the water” was a slogan abbey of Abdinghof, where he was pitched by the Paderborners a few originally buried and the Busdorf- years ago. Today it has changed kirche to the east. into a postmodern, denglish mot- to: “Urbane Waterscape Pader- Visiting Paderborn today, these born”. Under this umbrella the city three elements are worth getting is pitching for UNESCO World a sense of: the Domburg with its Heritage recognition. churches, chapels and the rebuilt palace, the walk around the old This initiative is not innocent. The spring from underneath the wall, which leads you to a num- Some parties in Paderborn obvi- Pfalz-Museum ber of other churches, and finally ously wishes to brand the city as © LWL Presse the water: the Paderquellen, the more than what it so obviously springs of Pader. always have been and still is - a and admired by his brothers-in- With more than 200 of these Catholic headquarter anchoring arms. brooks and streems welling up the mission directed towards the inside the city it is no wonder, wa- heathens living in the Northeast. Around 777 AD there was ample ter seems to be pouring out from room at the walled fortress for beneath you wherever you walk. In this mission grand exhibitions both the palace and the first Together they emit app. 3 – 9000 like CREDO seems to play a very church.However, the following litres pr. second streaming down- central role. year the Saxons attacked and succeeded in burning down the The spring pouring out from beneath the Pfalz-Museum complex. In the next building © LWL Presse phase the church began bit by bit to encroach upon the palace until in 799 AD a whole new cathedral was built. This nearly overshad- owed the palace. At that time both buildings were sumptuously decorated with wall-paintings, glass windows and – according to a contemporary poem (Karolus Magnus et Leo Papa) the walls were covered in hangings while the drinking vessels were of gold. Infused by imperial phraseology the poem may be a literary fiction. However it does probably portray exactly the kind of atmos-phere, Charlemagne wished to create around him, while meeting with important emissaries in his pal- aces.

Later, around 1000 AD, Paderborn was hit by a devastating fire and both the palace and the earlier cathedral burnt down. At this time a descendant of Widukind, Meinwerck, was bishop. To a large 25 26