THE ...t\RT

OF CII EESE -MA I{ lNG, AS PRACTISED IN ENGLAND,

AND ENGLISH v. SCOTCH PRICES:

WITH A LETTER

ADDRESSED TO THE PRESIDENT AND OFFICE-BEARERS

OF THE LESMAHAGOW FARMERS' SOCIETY,

AS A HELP TO PROGRESS;

BY THE VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE SOCIETY.

"Be Bure you are right, then go a-head."-American. "They are far ahin that may na follow."-Scotch.

LANARK: PRINTED BY MRS. BUDGE.

MDCCCLIX.

RESOLUTIONS.

At Lesmahagow, and within the Sun Inn, the 14th day of January, 1859, being a meeting of the office"bearers of the Lesmahagow Farmers' Society.

Present, Gavin Hamilton, Esq. of Auldton; Andrew Smith, Esq., Factor to William Edward Hope Vere, Esq. of Blackwood; William Sandi" lands, of Cumberhead; .James Weir, of Muirsland; John Gibson, "Bower" at Milltown; George Tudhope. of Birkwoodmain~; William Pettigrew, smith at Draff;tn ; and J. B. Greenshields, Esq., the Vice­ President.

The Vice"President was called to the chair.

The Vice-President presented to the Society a mass of information he had collected, on the subject of the superior modes of dairy economy practised in England, and read It letter which he had written to the President, Committee of Management, and Members of the Society, and which he was willing should be printed, so as to diffuse information as extensively as possible.

Resclved, 1st, That the best thanks of this Society are due to R. Porteous, Esq., and the other gentlemen who have so kindly supplied infor­ mation ; and also to the office-bearers and members of the Ayrshire Association, for the pamphlet which they printed in 1854, on the subject of English cheese-making, and management of pigs, &c.

2nd, That the thanks of this Society are due to John Blackwood Green­ shjelds, Esq., advocate, their Vice-President, for the letter he has written, and infonuation he has collected.

3rd, That they authorise Mrs Budge, of Lanark, to print, in the form of It pamphlet, the letter and accompanying information; that 300 copies be ordered for the Society, in tenus of agreement; and copies of the pamphlet sent to all the parties who have assisted this Society, with the Society's best compliments and thanks.

PREFACE.

IT is usual to write a preface, but the author of this pamphlet has really very little to express on that subject. He is prepared to meet with op­ position in some quarters, as many of the ideas are new in this district of the country; but having heard deep draining abused by those who were spending hundreds of pounds on shallow drains, and having lived to see many of these drains opened and replaced by deep ones, he is confident, that if he lives a very few years, he will see as great a revolution in cneese-rTUlking as in draining. He is encouraged in this opinion by the confidence reposed in him by the President and office-bearers of the LesD?-ahagow Farmers' Association, and hy the opinion of a valued friend, residing near the base of Tinto, who wrote to him that the fact. were 80 6trong they must work a change. He cannot be too grateful to kind friends who have aided him in his efforts to advance a good work and explode an antiquated system, and he begs to tender them his warmest acknowledgements and thanks for their services.

To JOHN GREGORY M'KIRDY, ESQ., OF BIRKWOOD, PRESIDEliT,

AND THE COMMITTEE OF MANAGEMENT AND MEMBERS OF

THE LESMAHAGOW FARMERS' SOCIETY,

GENTLEMEN, In the year 1854 the attention of the Ayrshire Agricultural Association was attracted to the superior price which English Cheese realized in the market, compared with Scotch, and they sent a deputation to the cheese-making counties of England, to procure information regarding the different modes of making it. Their Report was printed, and twenty copies were at the time purchased by the Lesmahagow Farmers' Society, and circulated among the members. The question of Cl.. making cheese in Scotland, on the English system, has ~ heen revived in conse- 'I quence of several communications, addresscd to myself as one of your office-bearers, !}{X.t;;'...tby several influentiaJ.parties, but chiefly by Robert Porteous, Esq., Factor to the Earl of Cork, who now lives in a district in the county of Somerset, where cheese is made on the Cheddar pdnciple. From these it is ascertained that the labour attending the process ot cheese-making in Somersetshire, is about one half of what it is in Scotland; and that a thermometer and stove, so as to regulate the temperature of making and,/~

ripening; an outlay of about £26 for 6;5" ~ ~f & ~QF 1 l J!88 if e I i~ t'1- ~ leod, 'n 1 j' ag hI p' 8 sf iBlf31eftl8sts, when of the very finest quality, and suitable ;-12~ I';is t' .:f for a dairy for 40 COW"and instruction which any dairyman can procure in about ten _ Y._ a ,!ays or a fortnight, are all that are needful to enable the Scotch farmers to start on ~L the English system.

trfJ During the year 1858, while prices in Scotland averaged from 483 to 50s per cwt., for sweet milk cheese, made on the Dunlop system, Mr Porteous writes that new cheese in Somersetshire has been selling at from 60s to 658; :.2 new thick at 70s; and prize as high as 78s per cwt.; and althongh the price" ,d,h ,0c, year by year, be as nicely balanced as the Druidical stones at Stonehenge, '.I~' ., year, be it remem­ bered, was a period of commercial panic and distress in E":;L,,,d as well as Scotland, and they are higher than Dnnlop cheese, in the best seasons, ever attains to in the northern markets.

It is difficult to ascertain accnrately the qnantity 'of cheese made in this Parish, but it is thought that it may safely be inferred that the value of such cheese, taking the prices of 1858, amounted at least to ,£.20,000. 'fhis is inferred partly from the valuation of the whole Parish for 1857·58, having amounted to £42,651, and partly from the fact that it is a dairy Parish. No doubt the gross sum of £42,600 includes minerals and house property, bnt as the farmers nearly all depend upon cheese for payment of their rents and subsistence, it is not thought extravagant to assume that 400 tons, or 8000 cwt., are made ann\lally in the parish.* It will be seen from tho following Table how much might be gained by receipt of English prices, but of

.lj Scypr.1\ parties assume 600 tons, or 12,000 ewts., which at .50s. per cwt. is £30 1 000, and at the price named by lhe London mcrcru.nt (page 26) would amount to no 1." than £54,000. 8 cOUl'se each farmer will apply these prices to his own individual case, so as to ascer­ tain how much he would profit by them.

400 Tons, or 8000 Cwt., Dunlop, at 5('08, ...... £20,000. Do. Do. Cheddar, at 60s, ...... 24,000. Do. Do. Do. at 659,...... 26,000. Do. Do. Do. at 70s,...... •. 28,000. Do. Do. Prize Do. at 78s, ...... 31,200.

It may be said that a little energy would be needed at first in seeking out markets for Scotch made" Cheddar Cheese," or any cheese made in Scotland on the English system, and some expense incurred for carriage, supposing such cheese was sent south; but the cheese dealers in this part of the country might soon, it is thought, make arrangements with London cheese factors to supply the English market supposing the quantity made was worth the attention of the latter class of men. A large proportion of the cheeses manufactured in the Englisb counties are bespoke for the London market; and to iIIustrate how demand regulates supply, an immense market is found in London for everything, even salmon caught in Scotland, and fat cattl~and sheep sent up from Aberdeen. But while London undoubtedly affords the largest market in the kingdom, aud with its two-and-a-half to three millions of in­ habitants, swallows up much of the surplns that the provinces produce, carriage might probably be saved, and a market secured nearer home,-for instance in Glasgow or Edinburgh, Dublin or Manchester, Birmingham or Sheffield. But ,this interests the Scotch cheese dealers as much as the farmers.

A great quantity of English-made cheese is now brought to Scotland to supply the Scotch markets, at considerable expense for carriage, and if the Scotch farmers could supply the demand by adopting the system of superior management, practised in England, the expense of carriage to market would be almost all sa7.;'d. Such cheese is frequently retailed at Is. per lb., being at the rate of 112s. per cwt.

It is the opinion of some, that by adopting the best breeds and management of pigs and on an enlarged scale, a great deal of profit might be made by the Scotch farmers. The report of the Ayrshire Association recommended the large and small breeds of Berkskire pigs.* Without offering any confident opinion of my own on this subject, I may st"te that some of the English breeds have such fine coats, that it would be well to enquire ,,'hether or not they would stand our climate, or whether they ought to he fattened off before winter, or if it were proper to heat the houses they occnpy. The opinion of the late David Low, Esq., so long the eminent Professor of Agriculture in the University of Edinburgh, is reprinted in substance, t and is well worthy of attention, in connection with the subject of improved economy of management of the farm:-

Before parting with the question of a market for Cheddar, or Cheshire, or Gloucester, or any other variety of English cheese that may be made in Scotland, it were easy, if within the scope of this communication, to collate statistics about

• See page 23. t Vide page 25. 9 quantities and value of foreign cheese imported to supply the home consumpt; suffice it to state. that the average value. of s'lch cheese is upwards of one million sterling per annum.

The following excerpts. from Parliamentary papers. will afford some idea of the magnitude of the home D1~et.

Quantities of the principal articles chargeable with duty. imported into the United Kingdom. and entered for home consumption in each of the three years. 1855. 1856. 1857. and the ten months. ending 31st October. 1858;-

10 mos. ending Articles. Year 1855. I Year 1856. Year 1857. Oct. 31, 1858. Butter•...... ••.••••..•••... Cwts. 448.268 498,378 443.016 326.790 Cheese •...... •...... ••...... 381.282 396,264 385,585 291.507 Corn.-Wheat...... Qrs. 2.U86,189 4.107,941 3,475,234 3,712,521 Barley••...... 351,875 735,892 1,7:10,532 1,353,554 Oats, ••••.....••••.. " 1,044,193 1.156,790 1,732,004 1.434,553 Iudian Corn•...••• " 1.224,281 1,788,212 1,158,752 1,434.553 FlourofWheat,Cwts. 1,92:1,101 4.016,853 2,212,168 3,415,875 Eg/fs•.•••.•.•••••.••.••• Number 100.006.200 117.395.600 127.011,200 119,790,400 Tal ow•••••••••••.•...... • Cwts. 829.124 1.016,309 1,085,572 895.849

Computed real value of the articles imported into the United Kingdom. in each oj the tllree years. 1855. 1856. and 1857 ;-

Articles. Year 1855. Year 1856. Year 1857.

Butter, .•.•...... •..•••...•••...•.. £2,049,522 £2,635,182 £2,061,280 Cheese •....••...... •...... 1,027,774 1,094.280 975.862 Corn,-Wheat, ...... ••.•..••• 9,679,578 12,716,349 9.559,111 Other kinds, •...••..••. 5,514,936 6,234,464 7,851,167 Flour of Wheat,•..•.. 2,304,106 4,077,728 1,963,622 Flour of other kinds, 10,080 10,881 2,678 Eggs, ...... 236,865 278,422 317.046 Lard •...... •.....••..•••.... 310,036 423.443 599,863

It is a prevailing opinion that a great deal of cheese is exported. No mistake can be greater. From a Parliamentary paper it appears that in the year 1858,28.004 cwts., and in the ten months, ending 31st October, 1858.18,885 cwts. only. were sent abroad, being not n.ore than double what Lesmahagow and Strathaven alone could supply on an average.

As an office-bearer of your Society. I have deemed it my duty to lay these facts before you, and for some valuable information, I beg to acknowledge my obligations to those who have so kindly co-operated with me. We think that the simplest solution of the difficulty how to improve our present system of dairy management, and draw as large a share as possible of the prices which are current in the southern part of this Island, is to print this letter and information, under the patronage of the Farmers' Society. and to circulate gratis a copy to each farmer within the parish. Mrs Budge of Lanark. in terms of agreement. is willing to supply 300 copies to the SOCi0:;rc:::~:: of a pamphlet, at a very small coat. I am willing to give up all claim • 10

e '~ finn eUher f,'l' trouble or fa' tk the value which the copyright of a pamphlet might / ~ k be worth, if the Farmers' Socie~ree ·to advance such sum from their fundi ..,.z:: a. will pay for 300 copieS1r"After they have been circulated it will be proper to ~ bring before the notice of th~ first general meeting of our Society, whether they will"iuc.i- ~ f ;":e. take any steps to prosecute the question. I~agreesto appoint a Committee to do9n ~ ~_ so, it may be an instruction to such committee~nd one or two dairymaids to , England to be instr!lcted, (perhaps one might sufficeJ.with power to SQIM party ip Epg 'j/Z{ ~rl to N!..l~il.; trained in England, if though~dvisable. When theseJ\~~ 1/ ~.. women exhibit here, it is indispensible that they should be furnished with English dairy utensils, and as Mr Gieson has agreed to allow the first public performance to be at Milltown, one way to reimburse those who have advanced money would be to 'P charge a trille from each spectator. After these dairymaids have gone about instruct­ iug all in the~rish who are willing to pay and wish to learn, taking along with them the implements of their trade, it may be a question with the Committee whether they would allow them to be hired by any parties within the connty of Lanark who wish their aid. It might probably have sufficed if one aged and experienced dairy­ woman were brought down from England with dairy utensils, as she would be assisted at every farm she went to by the dairywomen of the establishment, who would act by her directions; but unfortunately the dialect of Somersetshire is so peculiar that Buch directions, it is feared, would be imperfectly understood. Should the scheme be taken up in a spirited manner by Noblemen and Gentlemen in this part ofthe country, the day may not be far distant when Scotch intelligence may invent improvements. and English deputations may come here to be instructed. It was a Scotchman who thought of a separate condenser for the steam engine; a Scotchman who applied steam to the propelling of vessels, although an American claims the merit; a Scotch­ man who led the van in political economy j and a Scotchman who revolutionized novel writing j and in a more humble sphere it is not impossible that Scotchmen, or Scotchwomen, are on the eve of great discoveries in the useful art of making cheese. I am, GENTLElIEN, YOUI' most obedient Servant, J. B. GREENSBlII:LDS.

KERSE, LESlI.IAHAGOW,} February, 1859. ENGLISH CHEESE-MAKING, &0.

Ix the .best managed districts of England there are four rooms set apart for the dairy, -a. mdk room, a room for making and pressing' cheese, another for the process of saltmg, and a fourth fOl" stowing and preserving the cheeses until they are bronght to market. Old cheese sell so much dearer than lIew that some farmers of capital keep their cheeses for a year before sending them to market. Where cold and pure spring water can be commanded, it is a great acquisition to a dairy; and an ice house of simple and ingenious construction is recommended by some writers, so as to lower ~he temperature of milk, 01' thickening, when required, if water is not good. A stove m the cheese house is indispensible. The method of salting rennet seems the same in England as in Scotland, bnt :\11' Marshall, in his Rural Ecunomy oj Norjollt, after mentioning that the calf's bag or maw should be kept at least a year before being' used, adds, "to prepare the rennet for use, take a handful of the leaves of the sweet briar"the same quantity of the leaves of the dog rose, and the like quantity of bramble leaves; boil them in a gallon of water, with three or four handfnls of salt abont a quarter of an honr; strain off the liquor, and having let it stand until perfectly cool, put it into an earthen vesael, aud add to it the maw prepared as above. To this add a guod sound lemon, with about a quarter of an ounce of cloves, which will give the rennet an agreeable flavour. The longer the bag remains in the liquor, the stronger, of course, will be the rennet, but a sort of average for turning milk may be something less than three wine glasses of good rennet, to fifty gallons of milk."

i\Ir Marshall made many experiments in cheese-making, from which he con­ cludes that the quality of the curd depends as much on the heat of the milk when it comes as from its heat when set. From 85 to 90 degrees are about the I'roper heat; from one to two hours the proper time for coagulation; and the milk ought to be covered so as to lose about 5 degrees of its original heat. He confesses, however, that the subject Is a very difficult one, and adds," climate, season, weather, and pasture, may require that these bounds ShOldd sometimes be broken." The follow­ ing is n. specimen of one of his experiments, "Avon, Thlll'sth.y evening, air 60°, mfIk 88°, closely covered with thick woollen cloth to make the top and bottom come together; came in about one hour; curd very good." The following" is the opinion of the late Thomas Thomson, Esq., Professsor of Chemistry, in the University of Glasg'o~v:- '··If milk be much heated when it is put to coagulate, and if the curd be broken and the whey suddenly and strongly pressed out, as is often the case in Scotland, the cheese is worth almost nothing, but the whey is excellent, and will afford much butter, but when the whey is separated by a slow and gentle pressure the cheese is good, but the whey limpid and poor."-Thom80ll'. Chemistry. Sir David Brewster in his Encyclol'a:t.!ia, remarks, "cheese varies in quality ac­ cording as it has been made of milk of one meal, of two meals, or of sldmmed milk, and the season of the year, the method of milking, the preparation of the rennet, th .. mode of coagulation, the breaking and gathering of the curd, the management of the cheese in the press. the method of salting, and the management of the cheese-room, are all objects of the highest importance to the cheese manufacturer; and yet, notwithstanding this, the practice in most of these respects is still regulated by little else than mere chauce and custom, without the direction of enlightened observation, or the aid of well conducted experiments." The colour of a cheese imparts nothing to its goodness, but an ounce of Spanish annalto when genuine will colour a cwt., and in many parts of ElIgland the farmer who w~u1d dispose of 'ilia cheese to advantage is nece.si!ated to use .it. In North Wiltshire, Mr Marshall says, a new Sr"("l.' ha~ been discovered which glVes the milk and curd It beautiful golden hue. 12

CHESHIRE CHEESE.

The cheese made in Cheshire has long been famed,. and there chees~s of. t~e largest size viz.:-60 to 100 lbs. are made. After the mIlk has been stramed It IS conveyed to' a cooler, placed upon feet like a table. This ~s a leaden ciste~n about 9 inches deep, 5 or 6 feet long, and from 2 to. ;3 ~eet broad, wI~h a cock or SpIgot at the bottom. When sufficiently cooled, the milk IS drawn off mto pans, and the cooler again tilled. The rapid cooling thus produced in the hot season, retards fermenta­ tion, and makes the milk keep well until two meals have been pnt together. * When the weather is cold, a portion of the creamed milk of the former meal, perhaps three or four gallons, are reserved, and being placed in a brass pan over a furnace, or in a vessel of hot water, is made scalding hot. Half of it is theu poured into the cheese-tub among the cold milk, and the remain~er into the pan in. which t~e c:ream of t~is same milk has been placed. The hot mIlk and cream bemg now mtImately mIxed are poured into the cheese-tub, aud the warm milk added that has just come from the cow-this is called melting the cream, The rennet is next applied with annatto in a rag. The temperature of the milk when coagulating varies in Cheshire from oue half what it has been when drawn from the cow, to twice its natural heat. Mr Rudge is of opinion, says Sir David Brewster, that 900 is the proper heat, but Mr Marshall, form­ erly quoted, found that in milk produced from cows fed on poor clays, the temperature of coagulation must be higher than on rich pastures.

After the cheese-knife has been employed, or in some instances only the skimming dish and hand, for auout 40 minutes, in breaking and gathering the curd and the cheese-tub allowed to stand covered for about 40 minutes longer, the whey is ladled off, and the curd properly pressed. The curd is now pared and cut with a cheese· knife, until the whey is separated, and the dairymaid and her assistant break it with their hands as small as possible, sprinkling. salt over it. It is then put into a vat (chessart), and to assist in this process, a hoop of tin about three iuches in breadth is put round tbe top of the cheese, and its edge placed within' the brim of the chessart. Skewering, i.e. piercing the cheese with a skewer is continued till the morning after the cheese has been put in the press. In the interval, the eheeseling, as it is now called, is turned and shifted every two or three hours at farthest. It is next put into a vessel of hot whey or water to stand au hour or two. This is to harden the skin, and to preveut blistering. It is then wiped dry and covered with a clean dry cloth, and replaced ill the mould and pressed. After having been shifted twice a-day for two days, it is removed for salting, the last cloths used having been so fine as that no mark of them may appear on the cheese.

Saltin~ is done either in the chessart, by cloths which have been immersed in brine and changed every day, or by covering the upper surface of the cheese with salt every time it is turned, repeating the application for three days successively, and in the latter case taking care to change the cloth twice. In either of these methods, the cheese, after being so treated, is placed upon the salting bench, and the whole surface rubbed with salt daily, for eight or ten days. If it be large, a large hoop or a tillet of cloth is employed to prevent rentin&,. The cheese is then washed in warm water or whey, dried with a cloth, and 13J.d on wbat is called the drying bench. It remains there about a week, and is thence removed to the keepin"'­ house. While 3 lbs. of salt is allowed for a cheese of 60 Ibs in Cheshire, it has n~t been determined how much of this is retained in the cheese. After salting and d~ying', the cheeses are deposited in the cheese-room or store-house, smeared all over WIth fresh butter, and placed on shelves or on the floor. During the first ten or fifteen days smart rubbing is daily employed, and smearing with butter repeated. As long',. ho,wever, as they are k~pt, they sho.uld every day be turned, and the usual practIce IS to rub them three tImes a week m summer, and twice in winter. The cheese-rooms in Cheshire. are. usually placed oyer the cow house or byre for the sake of the heat, but a stove will npen cheese, and IS frequently very convenient.

. Mr Marshall causes his cheeses to. be well brushed with a hard brush, dipped m whey, and rubbed afterwards WIth a cloth on which fresh butter has been spre~d. A~tel' being wa,shed, scraped, rubbed, and turned for some weeks, they acqUIre .a ,"!ch golden po!,sh, a?d the b~ue coal begins to shew itself; bnt the blue coat wInch IS so much prtzed WIll sometImes begin to shew itself in one month and at other times not till the end of two or three. '

• The Cheddar system seems a groat improvement on thi., ,See Mr rorteou.·lclt.r,I'"~e 2'i).-Edilor. 13

No doubt a good deal of trouble attends the process of making cheese after the Cheshire system, but about 80s. per cwt. was paid two years ago as the common price, which tended to sweeten toil. This price is quoted on the authority of J. G.l\1'Kirdy, Esq. of Birkwood, who then visited some of the dairies in Cheshire. It has been calculated that 12 Ayrshire cows, well managed, will produce about 1~ tons of cheese in a season, or 2~ cwt. to each cow. The late Mr Andrew Smith, factor at Blackwood, in his statistical account of this parish, rates the yield per cow at 300 Ibs. Mr Rudge, in his agricultural report of Gloucestershire, states the annual produce of each cow at 3t to 4~ cwt.; but In other parts of England 2i cwt. to each cow is reckoned a good average annual return.

EXTRACT LETTERS

FROM R. PORTEOUS. ESQ., TO J. B. GREENSHIELDS, ESQ.

"MILLARD'S HILL, SOMERSETSHIRE, 15th Nov., 1858.

co Cheese have sold well-new from 60s. to 65s., and prime new thick have been eold as high as 70s., a price our Scotch cheese never attains to. They certainly make fine cheese here, and with half the labour they do in Scotland."

E ,·tract letter from the same to the same .

.. MILLARD'S HILL, 3rd Jan., 1859. \ "I am glad that the prices of cheese that I quoted have been the means of raising a little excitement amongst the farmers of Lesmahagow. I hope you will keep the stone rolling. Depend upon it the Scotch dairy farmers are very far behind the Somerset farmers at making cheese; not that they are all good cheese-makers here more than any where else, but the art of cheese-making is better known and practised here than in Scotland, and strange to say, the labour attending cheese-making in Somerset is about half what it is in Scotland, owing to their superior implements. The dairy­ houses are very superior, so are their cheese-lofts. No dairymaid ever warms milk without a thermometer and a watch, the one to let her know tbe proper temperature, and the other to know the time when to stir the milk about, which is generally about an hour or an hour-and-a-half from the time the thickening is applied. In Scotland they will sometimes stir it about in 20 minutes, and the, will not nnfrequently take some hours to draw the whey off. Here they will draw It off in 15 or 20 minutes, and with almost no labour at all. In my opinion it is one of the grand secrets in cheese­ making to know the proper beat to apply to thickening, and the proper temperature to keep up in the cheese-lofts in order to ripen the cheese. In Scotland, cheese-honses usually have neither stoves nor fire-places, and I do not think there is a dairy in Lesmahagow which has a cooler, either for curd or whey Here there are none with­ out them. I will write you in the course of eight days the prices of the different dairy utensils, and the way they make cheese. Should a person be sent here from Lesma­ hagow to learn the art, I would say send a woman, a clever, tidy, smart Scotch lassie; one if she can be found, who can hold her tongue, but can nse it smartly when needed. I ca~ get her into one of the best dairies in this county. The prize cheese at Frome Show was sold at 78s. per cwt.

EXTRACT OF A LETTER FROM AN AYRSHIRE FARMER TO J. B. GREENSHIELDS, ESQ., "8th Jan., 1859 • .. With regard to the Cheddar system of cheese-malting, I am happy in being able to speak very favourably, because previously to the time when we adopted it, the cheese made here were scarcely np to an average, in point of quality, as Dunlop cheese. Now for the last three years, since we adopted the Cheddar method, we have been able to sell our cheese about two shillings per stone, of 24 lbs., higher than Dunlop, on an average, and that i< ea.i1y counted on til,: c~t: ~ have Leen ~,aLle to realize upwards of £50 yearly more for the cheese made 1II lDlltatlOn of the Cheddar, than if they had been made on the Dunlop method, and I have always a. better demand for them. I ~ave .. cheese to Lord .James Stewart, M.P., who sent p,eces of it to several of his frie~ds in England, who told his Lordship that they considered it as good ... the Cheddar made in Somersetshire; but we cannot realize the high prices which you refer to iu your letter; the highest price I ever got was 65s. I got a f.ull set of implements which cost about £15? besides Arnot's sto",:e,. (£4,) a!,d I ha~ to gIVe Mr and ~Irs Harding, from Somersetslnre, a present for gI~Ing us InstructIOns for three days, pri"ately, besides three days which were devoted to the pu~lic instructi.on here. A Scotch cheese-press would do, but I would prefer an EnglIsh one, WhICh can press six cheeses at one time; mine cost £4 lOs. There was a good deal of pre­ judice against the Cheddar system for some time after Mr and Mrs Harding were in Ayrshire, and there were only four or five farmers who tried to imitate; now there are upwards of thirty who do so in this district. Sir James Monteith, of Mans­ field, New Cumnock, and Lord James Stewart, M.P., ga·ve prizes in 1857 and 1858 for the best cheese made after the Cheddar system, as well as for Dunlop, and our cheese goot the iirst prize Jast Novemher, at Cumnock, beating about thirty competi­ tors. Even the cheese dealers in this quarter now advise their customers to try the Cheddar method, as they are perfectly convinced that it is a great improvement."

E'i:TRACT FRm[ REPORT ON CHEESE-MAKING BY TilE DEPU'fATION OF TilE AYRSHIRE AGRICULTURAL ASSOCIATION, Printed in 18M.•

GLOUCESTER CHEESE.

Few, if any, of the Gloucester cheese are what we would callfoll-milk chee~e. It is a common practice in the Vale of Berkeley to take the cream from a consider­ able portion of the milk: In the dairy at Wate.. End very little cream is taken off; and this, together with the goeneral carefulness of the management, accounts for the superiority of Mr Leonard's cheese. He has thirty-six cows this summer; and previous to our visit ei~ht to nine pounds of milk hutter, in addition to the cheese, were weekly made. As cheese is made twice a-day, the hours for milking are early. In the morning, it is commeuced a little before five o'clock, and in the afternoon at three. ·As the milk is bronght in it is put into the cheese-tub, and great care is taken to free it from· impurities. A cloth is thrown over the tub, and above it is placed the ladder with the hair sieve through which the milk is poured. A table-spoonful of nitre is put over the cloth, and is left to mix with the milk I!.S it flows through into the tub. T\le colouring matter, composed of a solution of annatto and the rennet, are then added, and stirred carefully through the milk.

The thermometer is not used in Mr Leonard's dairy, and on that account we can­ not speak pr~cisely as to temperature. During the time of milking there is, of course, a conSIderable loss of heat, and as the small quantity of skimmed milk is added in summer without being heated, the temperature of the whole, we would suppose may be from 85 to 90 degrees when the rennet is added. '

About an hour is allowed fo~ coagulation. The time for breaking is judged bv the touch of the fiuger. By allowlllg the curd to become pretty firm the whey come, off purer than it would do if the curd were earlier broken.

~reaking the cn.rd is an operation that must be carefully performed. The dairy supermtendent, or, m her absence, a trustworthy person, must do this part of the work. The hands are pnt gradually down to the bottom of the tub and are broun-ht slowly to the surface Wit~l the palm upwards, and the fingers e~tended: Th[,; is done repeatedly; and care IS taken to avoid pressing or squeezing the curd, as " very

• -l! While ~ractical c:heese-ma"ers, allover the county, are very much indebted to the Ayrshire Associa .. bon for t~e mformatIon here extracted and reprinted; the reader will remember that it is 6,'e years old and that cl~umsta!'c~ have greaUy changed. The Ayrshire Association arc entitled as pionee~ t~ ~eat cr~lt, ~~d It 15 hoped that the g~n~rous mind will neYer refuse to render U honour to whom °r°teudr Isbodue. aI The Lesm:t.hagow ASSOCiation arc also indebted to them tor the information'DOw re­ pr " a ut s t, and an extract from the article on pig,.-EditOT. 15

Blight pressure wonld cause the whey to come off white. Ancr the hauu" have becn passed through the whole mass in this manner, a circular wooden breaker, formed like. a net, is used to complete the operation of breaking. It is moved slowly and steadily until the whole of the curd is made very fine.

The breaking usually occupies from twenty to thirty minutes. The curd is then left about twenty minutes to allow it to settle to the bottom of the tub. It is next drawn gently by the hands to one side of the tnb to admit of the whey being taken from the other side. The whey is lifted in a wooden bowl, and poured through It hair sieve into the leaden vessels, which are placed at the side of the dairy. The sieve retains any small portions of curd that have been lifted in the bowl. W hen the greater part of the whey has been taken off, the curd is heaped on one side of the tub; it is cut in different directions to allow the remaining whey to run out, and is gently pressed by the hands to accelerate the separation. The whey, as it flows from the curd, is lifted from time to time and put through the sieve into the whey leads. The curd is then put into vats with thin cheese-cloths, locally called whey-cloths, over them; and the vats are placed in the press, one above the other, for about twenty minutes. When taken from the press, the curd is cut into sqnares, and broken by the hand somewhat finely into the tub. A little heated whey is poured over it; the whey and the curd are well-stirred together; the curd is drawn slowly to one side of the tub; and the whey is taken out as before.

After the whey has been taken off, the curd is again broken down by the hands into the vats. It is easily broken, as it has not attained a firm state of cohesion. As the vats are filled, the curd is pressed into them with the hand, and they are piled one above the other in the cheese-tub. At this stage the curd is in a pasty state, and the fragments combine very easily; the pressure trom the weight of the vats brings the contents of each vat mto a solid mass. When the vats are all filled, they are reversed, and the hottom ones placed uppermost. The top cheese is taken and a triangular paring, about an inch broad at the base, is cut off round the edge. It is then turned into a whey-cloth, the va,t is rinsed with a little whey, and the cheese is put into it with the cloth under. The edge that is now nppermost is pared round as the other had been, and a portion of curd, in the form of an inverted cone, is cut out the centre of the cheese. This is c~lled "cutting out the witch," and we have been informed that the practice is seldom omitted by a Berkeley dairymaid. Along with an old horse-shoe over the door it forms a perfectly sufficient safeguard against witchcraft I The" witc~ ," is broken down .with the hand j the paring from the edge is placed round the opemng made by" cuttmg out the witch;" as much more curd is put in as suffices to make the vat full enough; the cheese is covered over with the cloth, and is put into the press. The other vats are treated in the same manner, and are then put into the press. After being pressed an hour or an hour and a-half, the cheeses are put into dry whey-cloths, and returned to the press till the evening. They are then rubbed over with refined salt, and pnt into thicker cloths, called" salting-cloths." In the morn­ ing the cheese is again rubbed with salt, and returned to the press in the same cloth. Next morning it is rubbed a third time with salt, and the salting-cloth is put over it another day. On the fourth morning the cheese is put into the vat without a cloth for the purpose of being made smooth. It is reversed in the vat on the fifth morning, and aooain on the sixth, and on the seventh morning it is laid on the shelf. The freque~t rubbing of so many cheeses with salt, has a very severe effect upon the hands of the dairymaid. It may be stated as a fair average of the amonnt of whey butter in Mr Leonard's dairy, that one pound is made weekly from the produce of each cow during summer_ The cheeses are turned daily in the cheese-room until they become firm, and afterwards they are turned about twice a-:week. Before being sold th.ey are p~inted with colouring matter composed of Venetian red and water. There IS no particular age of the cheese at which the painting should.take p.lace. They al:e p~in!edjust long enough before being sold to allow the peculiar blmsh colour, which mdlCates a true Gloucester cheese, to show itself. This may be at the age of three, or four, or six months. In painting, the dairymaid s.its ?n a low.stool, takes the chees!" in h:r lap and scrapes it carefully. She then staIDS It over With a .woollen cloth dipped ill the paint. 16

In some cheese-rooms after the cheese is paiuted a cabbage leaf is placed upon it to assist iu imparting the desired colour.. The !eaf is kept. ou a week, first on the one side and then on the other. A longer time of It would mJure the colour.

The Single Gloucester cheese, which is generally made in Berkeley, is fifte~n and a-half inches in diameter, and from two and a quarter to two and a-half m depth. This gives about eight chec8e~ to the cwt. The q.uality of th~ Double Gloucester is originally the same; but It IS ma~e of do!,ble thic~ue~s, .and IS usually kept to a greater age, which accouuts for the higher price at whICh It IS sold. The large leaden vessels and some of the other utensils in the Berkeley dairies are excellent. The cheese-tubs, like the majority of our own, are of wood; but the vats, or chessels, are much superior to ours. They are made of elm, and are turued out of a single piece of w~od. ~heir surface is remarkably sm.ooth; ~nd as they are hooped with wood there IS nothmg about them to corrode. With ordmary care, therefore, they last a long time. The wooden presses, though they have a clU!'1SY and old-fashioned appearance, seem to work well. 'Ve counted fifteen cheeses piled upon each other in one of them. They have no advautage over good lever presses, and in some respects are not so convenient. WILTSHIRE CHEESE. Like the Gloucester, the North Wilts cheese is not a full milk cheese. The cream is taken from the evening milk before it is mixed with the new milk of the morning. Of course, the whole of the cream is not thrown to the surface in such a short time. Iu" the month of June the average quantity of milk butter made from the sixty cows at Calcutt was about one hundred pounds per week.

Cheese is made once a-day. Iu summer the rennet is added to the milk at a temperature of from 80 to 86 degrees, according to the heat of the weather; after barvest, when the weather is coldel', the temperature is raised to 90 degrees. In ordinary weather, a small quantity of skimmed milk is heated to bring the whole to the requisite temperature; but in sultry weather a little new milk is heated instead, as the skimmed milk which has already been kept twelve hours is more susceptible of change by turning over. lIIany people in Wilts like to have the milk at higher temperatures than we have stated when they add the rennet; but ~Ir Sadler's - dairy manager objects to any greater on account of warm coagulation having a tendency to make the cheese heave, and because she thinks that the richer the land is the lower the temperature should be. Mr Sadler's pastures are very rich.

It is thought that an approximation to acidity in the milk is requisite for mak­ ing the finest quality of cheese. To produce this condition in cold spriu"" weather a little sour whey is put into the milk along with the rennet. '" The rennet is prepared in spring for the whole season. A uniform quality as regards strength of rennet, is thus obtained. On the average, about a dozen ~ells suffice for. ~oag~lating the milk of twenty cows. In this, as in all other good dairies that we vlSlted 1D England, the vells are never used until they are a year old.

As much annatto is used as suffices to give the chee~e a reddish-brown colour. The annatto is procured in bottles ill a liquid state, and is applied bv measure in order to ensure uniformity of colour. .

After the rennet and annatto are added, an hour is allowed for coagulation If the curd" come" in less time, it will be tough and hard. •

When. the . coag~lation . is s!,fficient the cnrd is carefully broken with a circular wooden sklmmmg dish, whICh IS put to the bottom all1.1 raised very "ently upwards The breaking is !lot quite so ~inute as in .the Vale of Berkeley. The c~rd is allowed t~ settle a few mmutes, and IS then agll;lD carefully broken: If it he thought rather c~ld at tha~ stage of the process, a little heated whey IS poured over it and well stlIT~d to raise the tempe~ature to about 80 degrees. The part of the process which requires the closest supermtendence and the greatest care is now over •

• ~h Sadler, of Bentham~ Dfar Crlckdale, and Calcutl. 17

The curd is agam allowed to settle for a short time, after which it is cut acron and heaped to one side of the tub that the whey may be drawn off. The whey i. lifted in wooden bowls and poured through a hair sieve into the leads. The curd is repeatedly scored with 0. knife and again heaped to one side to allow the whey to drain off; and to facilitate this further the tub is raised a little at one side. The curd is afterwards cut into thin slices, well heaped up, and a cheese vat, bottom downwards, and with a 281b. weight inside, is placed upon it to press out the whey. This part of the process is analogous to the use of the" dreeper" in Ayrshire. In this state the curd is sliced and turned three times, and the vat, with the weight is each time placed upon it. With that nice attentIOn to cleanlIness, which is observ­ able in every good dairy, a cloth is spread over the curd before the vat is placed upon it.

After these turnings, the curd is cut into thin slices and thrown on one side of the tub, where it lies about ten Illiuutes. It is thought desirable that the cnrd at this stage should have acquired a slight degree of acidity. An individual with an acute sense of smell will detect this acidity upon the blade of a knife that has been drawn through the curd, although the curd itself may not give the slightest iudica­ tiou of the change which has commenced.

When the curd is ripe, a little salt-about one and a-half pounds to the cwt.-is thrown over it, and it is broken by the machine. The cheese vats are placed under the machine, and are filled one above the other as the curd falls down. A cloth is put over each vat when the breal,ing is over, the curd is I'eversed in the cloth, put back into the vat, covered up, and placed in the press for about three quarters of an hOllr. After this, the cheese is taken ont, and a cloth wrung out of warm water is put on it. It is again changed at two and at six o'clock, after which dry cloths are put on it. Care is taken that the cheese fill the vat properly. To accomplish this, the vats, at making up, are filled rather full, and the edges of the cheese, are pared in the,afternoon. Next morning the cheese is rubbed on bot.h sides with salt, and the same cloth is put on again. On the third morning it is treated in a similar manner. The cheese is put into the vat without a cloth on the fourth morning, and a little salt is rubbed over it to keep it from adhering to the wood. After the fourth morning it is reversed in the vat, without a cloth, each morning, until the process is complete about the sixth or seventh morning. There are about forty cheeses to change every morning.

The quantity of whey butter made in the Calcutt dairy during the five weeks preceding our visit averaged twenty-six pounds per week.

In the Wilts, as in the Gloucester dairies, there are no artificial means resorted to in order to raise the temperature of the rooms for maturing the cheese. The rooms are kept in a cool and airy state. The necessity for ripening by an artificially raised temperature, must depend in some measure upon the mode in which the cheese has been manufactured.

We were much pleased with Mr Sadler's dairy utensils. There is no ex­ travagance displayed in his establishment; but at the same time no expense is spared to have the most suitable utensils that can be procured. The presses are powerful levers, requiring little weight upon them. The leads are capacious, and are connected with the whey tanks in the piggeries by means of pipes. The vats, as in Gloucester,' are turned out of solid elm; and the large brass tnbs are beautifully burnished.

When carefully kept, a substantial brass tub may last a life time; and even when worn out, the material is of considerable value. Mr Sadler's tubs at Bentham and Calcutt were made at Marlborough, and cost thirteen and fifteen pounds respectively. They have a clean as well as an elegant appearance.

Mr Sadler's dairy manager objects strongly to cheese-tubs of wood, because however carefully they may be scrnbbed, they cannot h~ completel.y fre~d from por­ tions ofthe milk or whey that have been absorbed by them, and whICh will afterwards emit prodncts injurious to milk. We aU know that milk is peculillrly susceptible of injury from a tainted atmosphere, 18

CHEDDAR CHEESE.

There Is an 'appearan~e of ea;;e a~d simplicity 3lbout the method .o~ making Cheddar cheese as we saw It practised m Somersetshlre. In the the daIrIes of Mr Harding aud hi~ aunt * a re"'ular system is followed; and :those undeviating guides, the thermometer and 'the c1~ck, are frequently referred to iu the different stages of the process. The more that ~ re~lar system is intr.oduced iuto the m~nufacture. of cheese-subject to such modIfications as th~ supermtendent may ,?~caslOnally ~h!uk necessary for varying circumstances-there IS the greater probabilIty of obtammg nniform results. The points of excellence aimed at in these dairies are the manufacture of the best quality of cheese in the most cleanl;r ma.n~er, and with the sma!lest amount of labour. In their attempt to accomphsh thIS l\lr and J.\'lrs Hardmg have been highly successful. In addition to the girls, who do the' work of the dairy, several men and boys are employed to milk the seventy-three cows belonging to Mrs Harding, at Marksbnry. The men carry the milk, but they do not enter the dairy in doing so. It is poured throuO'h a sieve into a receiver outside, from which a pipe conveys it through the wall t"o the cheese tub, or to the coolers. A canvass bag is also placed over the inside end of the pipe, so that a double precaution is used against impurities entering with 'the milk. The rennet is prepared much in the way that it is done in many Ayrshire dairies. l\lrs Harding steeps five ..ells at once, and this usually suffices for two weeks, in which time about twenty-one cwt. of cheese may be made. The vells appear to have been carefully cleaned aud preserved. Pure, well-flavoured rennet is certainly indispensable in the manufacture of first· class cheese. Immediately after the morning milking, the evening and morning milk are pnt together into the tub. The temperature of the whole is brought to 80 degrees by heating a small quantity ofthe evening milk. Mrs Harding, who has had long ex­ perience in cheese-makmg, cannot tell the precise temperature within two or three de~rees by merely passing her hand·throug:h the milk. Her grand-niece, who now reheves her of most of the duty of Bupermtendence, can usually tell very nearly; but even with individuals whose senses are acute there is a liability to deception, from the varying- heat of the hand when it is pnt into the milk, in different states of the weather. The thermometer, therefore, is found to be the surest guide, and it is regularly used. In spring and towards winter a small quantity of annatto is used to improve the colour of the cheese. It is put into the milk along with the rennet at seven o'clock. After the rennet is added an hour is requisite for coagulation. At eight o'clock the curd is partially broken and allowed to subside a few minutes, iu order that a ' small quantity of whey may be drawu off to be heated. This whey is put into a tin vessel and placed in a boiler in an adjoining apartment, to be heated in hot water. The curd is then most carefully and minutely broken-Mrs Hardin"', and her niece per­ forming this part of the work with utensils called shovel break~rs. The servants are never entrusted with this duty. When the curd is completely broken as much of the heated whey is mixed with it as suffices to raise it to 80 degrees, the'temperature at which the rennet was added. Nothing more is done to it for another hour.

A little after nine o'clock the work is resumed. A few pailfuls of wbey are drawn off and heated to a higher temperature than at eiO'ht o'clock. The curd is then broke.n as minutely as before, an~ after this is carefulfy done an assistant pours several pallful.s of ~he heated whey. mto. the mass. During the pouring in of the whey the stlrrmg WIth the breakers !S actively continued, in order to mix the whole regularly, and. no~ to ,,;llow. any portIOn of the curd to become overheated. The tem­ perature ,,;t t.1"S ~Ime lS. raised to 10.0 degrees! as ascertained by the thermometer, and the stlTrI!,g IS contl!'ued a conSIderable time, until the minutely broken pieces of curd. acqUIre a certain degree of consisteney. The curd is thea left half an hour to Bubslde.

» At Markabury and Compton, Dando. 1.9

At the expiry of the half hour the curd has tettled to the bottom of the tub. Drawing off the whey is t.he next operation, and the ease with which it is performed would astonish an Ayrshire dairy manager. The greater proportion of the whey is lifted in a large tin bowl, and poured through a hair sieve into the adjoining cooler•. As it rnns into the leads, it appears to be very pure. When the whey above tlte !naSI of curd is thus removed, a spigot is turned at the bottom of the tub, and the remain­ der is allowed to drain off, which it does very rapidly without any pressure being required. To facilitate this part of the work the tuh is made with a convex bottom, and the curd is cut from the sides of the tub and placed on the elevated centre. It is carefully heaped up, and then left for an hour with no other pressure than its own weight. After this interval, it is cut across in large slices, turned over once on the centre of the tub, and left in a hear as hAfnrA for half-an-hour. The whey drips away towards the sides of the tub and runs off at the spigot; and no pressure being ap­ plied it continues to come away comparatively pure. After undergoing these simple and ea .. y manipulations, and lying untouched dnring the intervals that have been mentioned, the curd is ripe for the application of pressure. But great care is taken not to put it into the vat to be pressed at too high a temperature. If the heat be ahove 60 degrees, and it usually is higher at this time, the curd is broken a little by the hand and thrown upon a lead cooler, uutil it is: brought down to the desired temperature. It is then put into vats and sub­ jected to a moderate pressure for about an hour. The next process is to take the curds from the vats, hreak them finely by put­ ting them through a simple curd mill, mix them with salt, and make them up into chesses. A pound of refined salt is sufficient for half a cwt. of curd. The cheese is put into the press at from two to three o'clock, and remains till the morning. Between the time of salting and six o'clock of the same afternoon, some­ thing near to one quart of whey is pressed from each cwt. of cheese, after which as much does not come 3$ would wet a cloth. Next morning the cheese is reversed in the vat, and a calico cloth put upon it to give it a smooth surface, and the follow­ ing morning another fine cotton cloth is put upon it. The third morning it is laid upon the shelf. The cheese of Monday is thus laid out on Thursday morning, which gives three days to the process from the time when the rennet is added to the milk, until the cheese is finally turned out of the vat. During at least two of these three days the pressure is continued for consolidating rather than for drying the cheese. And if the cheese were made of a moderate size instead of an unweildy mass of from seventy to one hundred pounds, a shorter time of pres8ure would suffice to give it It sufficient degree of consistency.

We are not aware of any good reason why the cheeses should not be made of It more convenient weight, as we were told that the size has no effect upon the quality. The principal reason seems to be that thick cheeses are the fashion, aud are recog­ nised as the usual form of Cheddar cheese. The usual diameter of a cheese is Iii! inches, and the depth is often 14 to 16 inches. Such a cheese is v~ry inconyenient to turn either in the press or upon the shelf, and we do not conceIve that It has any compensating advantages. When the cheeses are taken from the press, they are each laced into a piece of canvass called a fillet. This is done for the purpose of preserving the shapc, and it is a v~ry simple and inexpensive method of accomplishing the object in view. One Bet of fillets will last a number of years. A. in other parts of the country, the cheeses are at first turned daily, and nfter­ wards the time between the turnings is extended as they become firmer. The cheese­ room is well aired, and a high temperature is ma~ntai.ned in it. A temperature of from 55 to 60 degrees is regarded as the best for rlpenmg Cheddar cheese. In good weather during the months of :June, July, and A ug.ust, th.e natural temperatme. of the atmosphere is sufficiently hIgh; but at other tImes ot the y~ar, and Ill.so durmg these months, if the weather be cold, the stove must be kept '!' operatIOn. The cheeses without being rubbed, have a clean appearance. The sprmg and early sum­ mer ch~e8es are ready for the market in September. 20

The quantity of whey butter produced at Mrs Harding's dair:y is c?mparatively trifling. The week before our visit, seven pounds were made, winch. glves abo lit a pound of butter weekly for ten cows. The ~s~al weekly amo~nt I~ seven to ten pounds. This is a cunvincing proof that very httlc waste or deterlOratlO~ ta~es place from the extraction of 'he whey by the Cheddar method, although the milk I. coagu­ lated in ita full state of richness.

It will be observed that the amount of labour in Mrs Harding's dairy is s,!,all when compared with what is requisite for carrying on other ~ethods of cheese-makin/? During the period of from seven to eight hours from the tn:ue when the rennet lS applied till the cheese is made up, there are intervals extendmg to upwards of five hours in which nothing whatever is done to the milk or curd.

The breaking of the curd at eight o'clock, and again a little after nille, !lnd more particularly the stilTing when the heated whey is added, are the most labo~lOus parts of the work which fall to be performed by the super10tendent at Marksoury. To lessen this labour, IIII' Joseph Harding uses a breaker that revohes upon a vertl­ cal axle inside the tub. The breaker is mm'ed by a handle which is turned like the handle of a churn, and with this simple mechanical appliance the work is more easily performed. There is likewise the important additional advantage, that the dairy-manager can look on while another person turns the handle steadily, iustead of being obliged to work with the hand hreaker herself. In England, as in Scotland, the farmer's wife is generally the dairy manager; and mechanical improvements which lessen her labour are obviously very desirable.

The dairies which we have noticed are well known for producing the very first quality of Gloucester. North Wilts, and Cheddm' cheese. And after visitillg them it is difficnlt to give a preference to one over another so far as nice careful management is concerned. They all seemed to be models of cleanliness aud good order. The condition of the floors, the walls, and particularly the utensils, is carefully attended to; the servants are dressed tidily, and iu a manner suitable for their work; and the whole management has that attractive appearance which femilline neatness aud good taste, comhined with intelligence, are sure to impart.

The most celebrated makers in England consider slowness of coagulation, and a moderate temperature, as essential to the production of the best cheese. In their practice, the milk, when the renllet is added to it, is considerably below the tem­ perature at which it comes from the cow, and the quantity of rennet applied is less than ill Ayrshire dairies. In English dairies the temperature varies from 80 to 90 degrees; in Ayrshire dairies from 90 to 100 degrees. In England a full hour is allowed for coagulation; in Scotland, in general, from a quarter to half-an-hour is held to be sufficient.

In all the different methods of cheese-making, heat is requisite for the extrac­ tion of the whey.

By t.he ~Ioucester method there is little loss of heat during coagulation, as the cloth whlCh lS spread. ?ver the tub serves the two-fold purpose of preserving the milk and curd from ImplmtIes, and of preventing them from cooling. In the manufacture of ChedJar cheese the temperature is as low as 80 deo-rees when the renuet is used and by a simple process it is raised to 100 degrees whe~ the whey is to be taken off. 'The adva:,tages of low temperature in the eady stages for giving richness of taste, and of hl~h temperature afterw~rds for making the separation of the whey from the curd e~y, are thus both obtamed. In Cheshire the milk is thickened at a tempera­ ~ure shghtly ~nder 80 degrees, and the curd is afterwards heated in the vat to aid 10 the extraction of tbe whey. This seems to us less efficient and more laborious than the Cheddar method. .

In th.e English dairies the cheese is made in the apartment in which the milk is kept. ThIS apartment 8houl.n be the most suitable, in respect of its bein'" kept in the m?st perfect state of cleanhness; but, as small quantities of whey are"liable to be spilled near the tub, the floOl: would require to be as nearly non-absorbent as possi­ ble to rend",: such a practice safe. In a well managed dairy which we inspected there were thlrty "?ur cheeses last year. The floor was re-Iaid at the end of the 8ellson, as. the soirrmg of the cheese was ascribed to ita had condition during aum­ Iller. ThiS year, at the date of our visit, the cheeses were all good. An asphalte 21

floor should be very suitable for a milk-house, as it has no seams to absorb liquid.* It is not costly to provide, and there is no heat required ill the milk-house that would be injurious to it. Another point of difference in the practice of the English and Scotch dairy managers consists in the former using refined rock-salt, while the latter use unre­ ~ned sea salt. The English dairy salt is refined for the purpose of freeing it from hme and magnesia. The combination of the magnesia of the Scotch dairy salt with the acid of the curd, must give in some dergee, an nnpleasant flavour. We have already indicated an opinon that the Cheddar system is the best adapted to this county inasmuch as it is simple to learn, and the labour is compara­ tively light. We likewise prefer it because it produces the most valuable cheese. Setting aside the Stilton cheese which is made at a great sacrifice, as double cream is put into it, we have been favoured with the opinions of many gentlemen whose means enable them to make a choice, and they agree in stating that they think the Cheddar the best of the English cheeses. But, as such opinions are arbitrary, the right way of settling the point to the satisfaction of the producer is, by ascertaining the market value of the different kinds. This we were enabled to do. The infor­ mation which is given below, relative to the prices of the make of the last four years, Was obtained from the books of cheese-factors of hig'h reputation. It shows the prices which have actually been paid to the farmers, and is therefore preferable to iitatements of retail dealers, for in their case the cheese factor's protit is included. COMPARATIVE PRICES OF CHEESE. 1850. 18':;1. 1852. 1853. PER CWT. PER CWT. PER CWT. PER CWT. Single Gloucester 44s. 42s. 42s. 56s. Double Wilts, 45s. to 50s. 44s. to 50s. 44s. to 50s. 60s. to 66s. Wilts Loaf Cheese, 50s. to 56s. 48s. to 52s. 50s. to 56s. 63s. to 70s. Cheddar, 66s. 64s. 70s. 75s. The Loaf cheese is of similar quality to the double Wilts, but from its smallness of size it gives a good deal of additional trouble in the manufacture. In one of Mr Sadler's dairies, in which small cheeses were made last year, there were no fewer than one hundred and eighty cheeses, to turn in the vats every morning. Though Mr Sadler got seventy-three shillings for them, he does not think that the addi­ tional price did mnch more than compensate for the extra labour, an\! this year he is making cheeses of four to the cwt. We have seen that the Cheddar method of cheese-making combines the two great advantages of lightness of labour, and highness of priee; and we are naturally led to inquire-Can the same method be successfully followed in Ayrshire? 'Ve have seell nothing that leads ns to suppose that it cannot. A few slight variations may be reqnisite to adapt it to particnlar circumstances, but in the main we believe that it is a system which might be successfnlly carried out in any part of the ~ountry. 1\11' Harding and his aunt have no peculiar advantag-es for the manufacture of Cheddar cheese. They are not even located in the district-extending from the villa"e of Cheddar, in Somersetshire, to Wells and Glastonbnry on one side, and to Axb~idge and Bridgewater on the other-in which the bulk of the Cheddar cheese is made. When they came to their present farms, people told them that they would find it impossible to make Cheddar cheeses there. But they were wise enough to carry out their intention, and have been completely successtul. Their soil pro­ duces many of the same grasses as ours; and, as on Ayrshire farms, their cows are partly fed on. one and two-year-old grass, as a portion of their la~ld is ~n.der a rota­ tion which mcludei two years 01 pasturage. A large proportIOn of 1t IS old grass, but when the cows are upon the young pasture, there is no recognisable difference in the quality of the cheese. It may be said tbat the climate of Somersetshire is warmer than the climate of Ayrshire, and the difference in this respect is perhal's in favour of the maker in the south; but, practically, it is not found that eyen a considerable ~ifferenc~ of climate produces an appreciable effect npon the qnahty of cheese. Experience has not told us that a better quality of cheese can be made in the low-lying fertile vales of Ayrshire, than on poorer lands at elevations of five or six hundred feet. That the degree of

• Portland Cement would probably be preferabl•. It ha. been laid in Clasgow at about 3. Id POl' yard.-Edllor. 22

bJeat and the nature of the food have some inflnence upon the quality is demonstrated by the fact, that in all the different dairy counties bette~ chees~ is made in smomer and autumn, than in winter and spring. We see the effect pla1l1ly w~en ,!e look at the wide difference of winter and summer; but when the comparIson IS between latitudes of a few degrees, or 3J.titudes of .. few hundred feet of difference, the effect is inappreciable.

It has long been regarded as an established fact, by tho~e who have turned th~ir attention to the subject, that difference. of management .IS the l,rreat.cause. ~f dIf­ ference in the quality of cheese. But ID a large proportIOn of AyrshIre dames as much care and attention, and a great deal Illore labour, are bestowed than would suffice, on a different system, for making cheese that would bring more money in the market. Dnring the last twelve years, sixty-four sbillings per cwt., or about thirteen shillings and ninepence per tron stone, has been the lowest rate at wbicb Mrs Hard- 1111' has sold her summer made cheese. Within that period Ayrshire cheese has been dull of sale at seven shillings and threepence per tron stone. The difference of price has been greatest at dull times. And, as we have seen, the hope of eDhanced prices, is not the sole indncement for attempting a change; there is also prospects of the work being lighter. Weare sure that many Ayrshire farmers have often regretted the amount of drudgery it. the dairv which seemed to fall imperatively to the lot of their wives; and theJ will welcome any change of practice that is likely, along with other advantages, to lessen their share of toil. Whatever method of manufacture is followed it is certain that without attention and skill, success cannot be obtained; but though painstaking superintendence cannot be di.pensed with, the actual labour may be greatly reduced. We need not do more, in connection with this subject, than slightly allude to one particular requirement on the majority of Ayrshire farms, whatever method of cheese-mal.ing may be practised. There should always be well-aired cheese-rooms, with stoves to raise the temperature whenever it is desirable to do so. Very many farms are ueficient in this respect; but in a cOllnty where both landlords and tenants of late years, have evinced a general desire for improvement, we cannot anticipate any serious difficulty in regard to a small matter of this ltind when once atteution is directed to it.

The cheese-rooms were good on all the English farms which we visited. l\1r Leonard and Mr Sadler farm their own lands, and of course see that everything connected with their dairies is in an efficient otate. But the general feeling is that the cheese-room must be dry and well ventilated, though other things be deficient. Mr Harding, for instance, is not very fortunately situated for obtaining improve_ ments. Farming on a property which has got into the Court of Chancery, he has few advantages save what he derives from skilful management. But his cheese-rooms are well ventilated and tolerably convenient, and their temperature is carefully regulated under the sure guidance ofthe thermometer. He justly regards a regulated temperature and good storage as indispeusable to the best management.

!t is certainly to be regretted that people should anywhere be at the pains of ma~lllg cheeses that are afterWards to be stored in places where they are either ~polled by damp, or defaced by the ravages of vermin Where a high-pnced article IS .to be kept, good stores are usually obtained. And if the Association be enabled ~o demonstrate that Ayrshire milk can be converted into a commodity so valuable ID the market, as the cheeses we have described, any small obstacles in the way of a change of system will be speedily overcome.

26th July, 1854.

SALT FOR DAIRY PURPOSES. It is we~ known to dairy farmers that the kind of salt used in making cheese is of great Impo~tance, as some salts contain foreign substances which are very hurt­ ful.to the qualIty of the cheese. Thus. magnesia is very apt ~ impart a bitter taste ~ .It, and the more free salt is from that Ingredient, or any other foreign matter, It 18 the better SUIted for the manufactw-e of cheese and butter. The relati1"8 23 p~ty of different salts in general use is shewn by the following analysis. ob­ tamed. from Professor An.derson. from which it appears that No.1 and 2. Refined CheshIre Salt. and CheshIre Staved Salt, are mnch superior to any other being almost entirely free from any foreign substance :_. •

"15. SHUTTLE STREET. GLASGOW, 12t~ August. 1854 . .. D~AR SIR.-I have examined four samples of salt which you sent me. and have to report as follows. The four samples were- No. 1. Cheshire Salt Refined at Bath for dairy purposes. No.2. Cheshire Stoved Salt. No.3. Cheshire Marine or Butter Salt. No.4. Prestonpans Dairy tlalt. And the results of analysis were- No.1. No.2. No.3. No.4. Chloride of Sodium •..•...... ••• 98.71 99.12 96.12 94.85 Lime, ...... 0.39 0.39 0.81 0.35 Sulphuric Acid ...... 0.56 0.48 1.01 u.73 0.35 ~~f~:.~~~::::::::::::::::::::::::::: 0.34 0.02 2.06 3.72 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 " Of these salts the first two may be considered as almost identical. They are extremely pure, containing only a very small quantity of sulphurie acid and lime. 80 trifling indeed that it scarcely requires notice. They are also extremely dry. and although No.1 is not described as having been stoved. I imagine it must have been so. No. 3 contains about twice as much lime and sulphuric acid as the first two, and 2 per ceut. of moisture. No.4 is decidedly inferior in purity to the other three. for it contains magnesia. which gives the salt a peculiar bitter taste. Tbe moisture and other impurities in it amount to above [) per cent. "In regard to the comparative applicability of different sorts of salt to dairy purposes much difference of opinion has been entertained. It seems to me. how­ ever. that it can scarcely be doubted that the purest salt is the best suited for the purpose. Formerly, Bay Salt was considered the best, and was greatly preferred to common sea salt obtained by evaporation, in this country, and the reason I believe to have been its freedom from salts of ulagnesin, which were always found in that produced by the process formerly employed here. Since the reduction of the salt duties however. the manufacture of salt in Cheshire has undergone great improvements, and.it is now produced there of the highest degree uf purity. The consequence has been that the use of Bay Salt bas been gradually dying out for some years back. and the use of Cheshire Salt extending. "I am. Dear Sir. yours truly. "THOMAS ANDERSON. .. JAMES DRENNAN, Esq.• Holehouse. Ayr."

PIGGERIES ON DAIRY FARMS. The Piggoery in England is regarded. all bnt universally. as a useful appen_ dage to th~ cheese .dairy. I~ no ot.her way can the. whey. be so p:ofitably used as In the feedmg of pIgs. ThIS fact IS generally admItted m AyrshIre. but the im­ portance of the porcine department of stock is not 80 fully recognised thronghout the County as it deserves. As in other departments of farming. the piggery will be profitable or otherwise in a great measure according to the way in which it is managed. The English dairy farmers s~em to appreciate it .more hi!\"hly than the Scotch. and it certamly receives a consIderable share of thell" attentIOn.

The points whic.h principally requi;e attention in orde~ to attain to snccess in the breeding of pIgs are-good housmg. good breeds of pIgs. economy of labour in their management. proper kind, of food. and the mostjudicionil way of uling it. 24

On the dairy farms which we visited in England the housing for pigs was in general pretty good. The courts are placed. in such a manner that the anim~i when moving about are not exposed to the wmds; but many of the. houses appeal~d to be too cold for winter feeding. If warmth and comfort are eqUIvalent to certam amounts of food, they ought invariably to be strictly attended to..

It is no new thing to the Ayrshire farmer to be told that in regard to. breeds of pigs he is far behind his frie.nds in the sout~. .lndeed, we .are ~omewhat dISposed to believe that A)'I"shire is behmd many countIes m Scotland m thiS respect. ThiS should not be the case in a dairy countv. It is as plainly ~rroneous to expend food upon an inferior breed of animals, as to bestow care and pams upon the manufacture of cheese according to a mode that does uot produce a high-priced article.

In the districts which came under our observation, the black Berkshire breed of pigs appeared to predomina.te. .N ext in point of uumbers might be classed the small Berkshire, aud there were hkewISe some of the Hereford breed. Of course, there were many crosses aud impure bTeeds, but the greater number of them seemed to be much superior to the common run of pigs which are exposed for sale on the" auld brig" of Ayr.

At )11' Sadler's establishments we had the opportunity of seeing the black Berk­ shire breed brought as near to perfection as any breeder has yet managed to bring it. Out of his stock of nearly three hundred, there was not one which had not the four white feet, the white spot between the eyes, and the few white hairs behind the shuulder, which are amongst the indications of purity in that breed. At the Hoya! Agricultural Society'S Show at Gloucester last year, he carried off the first prizes for boars and sows of any large breed; and he has this year carried off the first prize for three breeding sows of one litter between four and eight months old, at the great show at Lincoln. At Smithfield, last Christmas, he was successful in winning the prize offered for the best fat pig. This animal weighed, when slaughtered, forty-two scores, or thirty-five tron stones, sinking offal. The breed which carded off these prizes against all England is certainly worthy of attention.

The large Berkshire pig, if moderately well fed, is always fat or at all events can easily be made so in a short time. 'l'here is therefore this advantage attend­ ing: them, that the feeder can select his time for selling, according to the state of the market. He can feed off at the weight of ten scores for converting into hams, or, in the expectation of a better market, can keep until the animals be fifteen Icoresor upwards, when they will be fit for bacon.

The small Berkshire, however, is the best for the hamcurer's purpose. The curer likes to get pigs of from nine to twelve scores of pounds each. For nice well­ fed pigs of that size, higher prices are given than we are accustomed to reccive in A)1"shire. On the first of July the price in Bath was eleven shillings per score, "ith bead and feet on the carease. The CUlTent prices in this county at the same date were nine shillings to nine shillings and sixpence per twenty-four pounds. This is an immense difference. But great as the difference of price is, it is ques­ tIOnable whether we do not lose nearly as much more, by feeding animals, which are coarse and comparatively much inferior in point of aptitude to fatten.

We may insta~ce what we saw at Mrs !larding's establishment as"an example of good, I?lam profitable mana~emen~ of a plggery on an English dairy farm. We select It m preference to JI.lr 8adler s, because the management of that gentleman is beyond ~he reach of common imitation. It requires great skill, a large capital, and mdomltable perseverence to enable anyone to establish such a reputation both as a breeder and feeder.

• 1\11'" Harding pur~hases all her pigs. They are frcquently got at reasonable prIces at the age of SIX or seven montbs. And when balf-grown animals can be procurQd at moderate rates, they are preferred to young pigs.

Three .Iots of ahout thirty each are fed off in the course of the season. With th: e:

The whey is gIven to the lot of pigs in course of being fattened. It is cOnTeyed by a pipe from the leads iu the dairy to a tank in the centre of the piggery. Into this tank some kind of !{rain, usually bruised barley, is put, and the whey is run over it. Before the mess is used the whey is allowed to become sour, as it is supposed to be less laxative in that state. We believe that another and equally important advan­ tage attends the long.continued soaking of the grain. The nearer the food ap­ proaches to a state of decay the more completely will the nutritive matter which it contains be assimilated by the digestive organs of the animal. It is equal to giving a greater quantity of grain in a condition less prepared for digestion.

Advantage is taken of water-power to drive a pair of stones for bruising grain. As we have already said, barley is the kind of grain that is chiefly used. It is exten­ sively grown in the south of England, and inferior qualities are used for feeding pur­ poses. When the pigs are fed" ith it the meat is of the best quality. This, of course, partly accounts for the high priQes.

The growing pigs are turned into a field to feed upon the pastnre, and a small quantity of brewer's grain is given to them. Although the pigs thrive well, and are cheaply brought up in this way, we see nothillg to prevent them from doing equally well in good courts witb the food brought to them.

On each of the farms that we visited two or three lots are fed off in the course of the season. And in no instance were pigs fed upon whey alone. It is thought more profitable to have a greater number than the whey will keep, and to use other kinds of food along with it.

On a small farm adjoining the Royal Agricnltural College Farm at Cirencester,the pig manure is turned to good account. At an old quarry on the farm, weeds, road­ side parings, &c., are slightly burned. The pigs are kept on sparred floors, and their manure, which is free from litter, is carted away and mixed with the cal­ cined matter at the quarry. The mixture is carefully put in the form of a lon~ potato or turnip heap, and is thatched over for preservation. A portion of super­ phosphate of lime is added, and forty bushels of the compound are found to be an excellent manuring for an acre of turnips or mangold ..

ABRIDGED EXTRACT FRO)I PROFESSOR LOW'S ARTICLE ON THE MOST APPROVED MANAGEMENT OF PlGS:-* The female can easily be made to produce and rear two litters in the year; and she may even rear five in two years. She is ready to receive the male soon after the birth of her young; but the time should be chosen which allows her to produce her litter at the most convenient season; thus, if she is to be made to litter twice in the year, the first should, if possible, be produced about the beginning of :February, and the second about the beginning of August, so that the last litter may gain full strength before the arrival of cold weather. t When the sow is with young she should not be wholly confined to a pen, but be Buffered to walk at large in a yard or other convenient place. Before producing, she should be separated from her fellows, and carefully littered with short straw. When nursing, she should be well fed, and with her youug, lodged dry and warm. When the young are weaned, they should be fed at least three times a-day, with wheat bran, barley dust, or any farinaceous food, warmed with water, to the temperature of the mother's milk, or with whey, or refuse of a wholesome kind; they will soon eat potatoes or turnips, and all other food. W hen fattened by the breeder, if suffered to go at large after being weaned, they may be turned abroad, to pick up what they can in the straw yard; a little green food, as tares or clover during summer, and turnips or potatoes du;ing winter, being supplied. When put up finally to be fattened, they are fed on farInaceous and other food. The pigs intended for this variety of management should be the best of the

• Practical Agriculture, by the Tatc David I.ow. Esq., Professor of AgricultuT(" Edinburgh t The young- arc u!!lu~lly best rattened where there is abundance ofy.rhey, 50 that February is rathc-r too early on purely dairy tanns.-Ed. 26

.maller breeds, and may be killed whim 7 or 8 stones weight. Pigs ought, when con­ fined, to be fed at least three times a-day, and the troughs emptied before a fresh Bupply of food is given, and kept perfectly clean It is well to vary their food, and not to overload them with too much at a time. It is a great error to keep them in a. state of filth or neglect. The hog is not a filthy animal by choice. He delights in a clean bed; he will wallow in the mire, indeed, like the elephant, but this is not because he prefers filth, but becanse he loves coolness and moisture. When pigs are fed for pork they may be reared to the age of six or eight months; when intended for bacon they must be reared to a greater age and size, as ten or twelve months. When the object is pork, Professor Low prefers the smaller class of early feediug pigs; when bacon is desired he advises people to cultivate the larger. In the case of feeding for pork alone it has been computed that upon a regular farm, with a supply of tares and clovers to the animals in summer, and potatoes and turnips In winter, alld with no other feeding than the refuse of the barn, milk-house, and kitchen, one pig may be fattened in the year for every 6 acres under corn crop. Thus, snpposing 24{) acres in corn crop, the number fed would be 40. To fatten this stock, in addition to what they cau pick up in the straw-yard, about It acres of clover, and an equal quantity of potatoes, during winter, will be sufficient. To keep up the number, three breeding sows will be required, of which two should be sold ill each year, their place being supplied with an equal number of younger ones reared on the farm. The stuplus heyond 40, which it is proposed to feed, may be disposed of wheu weaned. This is a method of management practicable without any interference whatever with the food and attention to larger stock, but of course there will be some difference according as the farm is a dairy or a grain one. Mr Henderson, in his treatise on swine, recommends a very profitable system of breeding, provided there is sufficient demand for weaned pigs. He begins with 20 sow pigs, produced in the month of June, and 1 boar. In the following June all the females will have had pigs. These they are to suckle for abont two months. The pigs are to be all sold just when weaned, except 21, viz.-2U BOWS, and a boar pig for st,ock, aud the mothers after a month are put up to fatten. This will be about the be~inning of September, and the male being admitted to them, they are rendered qwet and apt to feed, and in two months are fat and oflarge size. *

The following opinion of Professor Lo,,, is well worthy of attention :-

It is a great error for a farmer, however extended his concerns may be, to disre­ gard this branch of farm stock; it is to him a source of household economy and co".'~ort. He. can raise the. most deli~ate pork at all times, and with the greatest facilIty, ~nd wIl! always ?enve a .suffiClent profit to repa;r him for his feeding, and induce hun to give attentIOn to thiS branch of economy.

FROM MARK LANE EXPRESS (NEWSPAPER). London Market, 7th January, 1859, cheese per cwt.:- Cheshire, 60s. to 74s. Cheddar, • • 60s. to 80s. Double Gloucester, • 52s. to 66s.

EXTRACT OF A LETTER PROM A LONDON MERCHANT, TO I. B. GREENSBIELDS, ESQ. " London, 19th January, 1859. "I think the efforts to impro:ve the make of cheese in Scotland are very praise­ wort~~, and I shall be gla~ to aid you as far as I can in this object, but from the enqwrles that 1 have made ill more quarters than one, I cannot find that the cheese

• If one ~armer in each parish would tum hI. attention to this method, he could.. sell about­ VOUD.! plgS to hIS nelghboun, SUPpOSing they were so superior as to attract attention D"es'd k .... "P hlS stock It Is a rule·olothree question how much h. would get for the "::,PhlDg Oluch for the SO fat moth..... _Edl/or. *_ young ' PJ85.,'" an ow 27 factors issue any circulars. The people that we deal with, Messrs --,. of Ludgate Hill, are iu a very large way, highly respectable and very intelligent, and they tell m& that they get their informatiou frolll the Mark Lane Express, and another Newspaper; a copy of the former I send you. !\Iessrs --, however, inform me that the best cheese never finds its way to a fair, but is bespoke and paid for before hand, and does not appear in the prices quoted. For instance, they say they have been paying as high as 90s. for Cheddar; that there are certain dairies which supply them regularly from year to year, and that they make advances to the farmer whilst the cheese is makiug."

EXTRACT FROM A SPEECH A.T AN ENGLISH AGRICULTURAl, DINNER • .. Why fear or halt in progress? The population of the kingdom is increasing at the rate of 360,000 a year. We have no reason to think that the ingenuity of man is exhausted, or that the chemical combinations which science has brought to bear upon resistance are at an end."

(COpy) TO J. B. GREENSHlELDS, ESQ. " MILLARD'S HILL, 26th Jan., 1859. "DEAR SIR, "I am in receipt of yours of the 20th, and am glad the good-folks of Lesmahagow have taken up cheese-making in earnest. With regard to dairy utensils, there are not many milk-dishes or "boyns" made use of here. The cows are milked at [j o'clock afternoon, and the milk carried home. You must know that the cows are never put into a "byre" to be milked. The milk is put into a large tub, which is made of strong white iron or tin,. with a false bottom. There is a tube or cylinder runs down the outside of this, wl;lich fills the false bottom with either cold or hot water, and is drawn off, when. required, by a cock or spigot at the bottom. When the cows are milked in the morning, (at 5 o'clock in the summertime,) the milk is put into this tub and mixed with the evening's milk, and raised to the proper heat for thickening, by pouring hot water down the tube into the false bottom, which heats the milk almost instantaneously, and with little labour compared with the way it is done in Scotland. When the weather is very warm and sultry, in the summer evenings, they ponr cold water into the false bottom, and draw it off two or three times before going to bed, and replenish it in order to keep the milk sweet; and observe how useful it is again whea drawing the whey off the curd. The curd is apt to get cold, but by pouring hot water into the false bottom, you can raise the temperature of the whey as high as you please, which enables the dairymaid to keep the curd soft and sweet, and curly in appearance, instead of that hard, smootQ, thin blue,.white appearance you so. often see in the north. A ~ood da~rymaid will. draw the whey off in half-an-hour WIthout pressure, better than IS done In Scotland In several hours by the most stupid pressure. As soon as the curd is sufficiently dry for cutting up, it is put through the curd mill, which. is do~e muc~ th; same way as coff!,e. is ground, and IS more quickly done than by cuttmg WIth a kmfe In a tub. After It IS cut up, some allow it to stand for a short time in a lead cooler, while others put immediately into a vat or moul1 ~), let it remain till next morning, cut it up again, then put into a mould and let it remain until ready to take out, when a stay is put round it, and which remains on till sold. The stays cost lid. each.

"Most of the dairies have lead coolers for the whey, and are useful when whey butter is to be made. They are dear and may be dispensed with. I am not sure that I can, asyet,.auswer your question satisfactorily, 'What can be made from a cow?'.I would say on the best pastures from 3 to 4 cwt. per cow, but were the cows fed III the house, as in Scotland, it would be mUCh. more. Cows. are never in II: "by.re" here frOl .. April to December. Th~y know little abou~ feedIng co~s. It IS.OWlllg to their superior utensil~ and handling. the ~ur~ so qUlck~y, and domg nothmg by guess, that their cileese IS 80.g00d ••ThIS white IrOn tub, WIth a false bottom, enables

.. The originals of all communications referred to are in the possession of the editor, but he thinks that it would IJe a betrayal of confidence were he in oycry inslance to pubU.. h the name. oC paltia iupplymg information. 28

the dairymaid, while drawing the whey off, to keep the whey warm, and the curd 80~t, sweet, and curly in appearance. There is n? pres."~e used, and a S~otch daIrym~ld would be perfectly astonished to see how qUICkly It IS done. There IS ano~her pomt too-they never break the curd up till it has stood with the thickening in It at lea:'t an hour, and more frequentl.~ an hour-a,?d-.a-half. I know. that the good-~olks 10 Scotland will say" the curd wIil get cold. An easy remedy IS found by pour1Og hot water into the false bottom, and up goes the temperature. They are very caref'" of their cheese after they al'e made. They have .toves in all their cheese 10£1s, and are very careful to keep the temperature equal. They send all their best cheese to the London market. Their taste is mild and mellow. The London market, you must bear in mind, is the best in the wol'ld. If they were made to suit the G~asgow ~arket, they must be so stronO' that the smell could be felt at several yards dIstance; 10 fact we could not make ou~ so as to suit the Glasgow taste or prices. I shall endeavour to send you the prices for the three past years. They will be high, viz. :-from ten to lfifteen .hillin"s above the Glasgow prices, during that time. I have sent a vat or mould ~ to Lesmahagow, to IIII' J. Torrance, Burnbrae, price lOs. 6d. A - .. ~ 1 am &c., (Sig'IJed) ROBERT PORTEOUS. P.S.-A smart dairymaid will learn the art in ten days 01' a fortnight, and im­ plements for a dairy of 40 cows will cost, at most, .£26 to £30•

. (EXTRACT.)

"MILLARD'S HILL, 5th Feb., 1859. "With regard to the proper temperature to thicken milk, that is rather a 0 difficult point. It will range from 85° to ]00 , a good deal depending on the weather out of doors, and also the situation of your dairy-house. The colder the weather the higher the temperature. I was told the other day by a farmer who com­ mands the highest figure in the market for his cheese, that he generally thickens at 90 0 to lOoo, varying according to the weather.

" Bear in mind that they are exceedingly careful in this county about keeping up a mild temperature in their chee,e-houses, and to exclude the damp air. Depend upon it ~he two principal points in cheese-making are drawing the whey quickly off the curd w.thout pressure, and the proper temperature of the cheese-house in order to ripen the cheese. If I w~re to ~iv~ an opinion to the Lesmahagow people, it would be to send one or two actIve maids mto Somerset, to learn how to use the different utensils and also to see how they manage their cheese after they are made. J

"I have not been able to procure the average of the last three years prices but I send you the prices of one of the best cheese-makers for three years. '

1856 75s. per cwt., sold in September. 18b7 77s. " sold in April, 1858. 1858 76s. sold in October.

"The best cheese are rarely taken to country markets; they are generally sent direct to London. With regard to the term Cheddar cheese, all the good cheese made in Somerset are;alIed "Cheddar," which, I suppose, pleases the" cockneys." For every cheese made 10 the vale of Cheddar, there are at least fifty better which are sold. s such, and bear the 8ame name; in fact, Cheddar cheese meallS in Somersetsh:e what Dunlop cheese means with yon.

PRICES OF UTENSILS. White iron whey-tub, - - - _ £7 0 0 Curd-mill, - 1 15 0 Double cheese-press, 6 10 0 Tin-cooler, - - - - _ _ 3 0 0 ~urd-cutter for breaking up curd in whey-tub, 0 12 0 '~ts or ~oulds, - - - _ 7s. 6d. to 1 1 0 each Ilhlk-stl'alller, - 0 7 6 "NOTE.-Some of these articles may be bought rather dlcaper than uot d If lead coolers are ~vanted t1~e sum total will be higher. I fear zinc would 1. t e • f any oC the utensils, but tIllS may be worth trying." 0 d 0 or 29

LIlT OF QUERIES PUT TO PARTIES IN AYRSHIRE WHO TAKE AN INTEREST IN INTRODUCINll 1'HB ENGLISH SYSTEM O~' l'BBESE-MAKINll.

1st, Is there anything in the climate or pastul'e in Scotland which prevents a per- fect imitation of .English cheese?

2nd. If so, is it possible to rectify our disadvantages? 3rd, Is the English system of making cheese gaining ground in Ayrshire generally? 4th. Is there any difficulty in procuring markets for cheese made in imitation of Cheddar? 6th. If the English system is not gaining ground, is this to be ascribed only to ignor­ ance or folly on the part of the Scotch farmers, or their wives, or to want of en­ couragement from landlords or factol's in making alterations in steadings?

To these queries answers have been given in by various parties to a gentleman in Ayr, who had furnished them with copies, and the substance of the replies was, by him, reduced to writin)!;, and transmitted to the Author, as Vice-President of the Lesmahagow Farmers' Society. As some matters, verging on private affairs, were touched upon, the letter was submitted to J. G. l\1'Kirdy, Esq., President of the Lesmahagow Farmers' Society, for his official opinion to be published. The Author has very great pleasure in attesting to this gentleman's cOUI'tesy and kindness, and he gives his opinion verbatim et literatim.

"BIRKWOOD, LESMAHAGOW, N. B., 19th Feb" 1859. " My DEAR SIR, .. I have to thank you for your letter and the information you have given me relative to cheese-making. "For success to attend your efforts in improving this important item in farming, I think the attention of landlords must be drawn to it, as well as that of tenants. They must aid one another; the first by advancing capital for additional accommoda­ tion iu the farm buildings; the other by being ready to pay the necessary interest on the outlay for sucb improvements.. Without some arrangement of this sort I fea .. tbe farmers ,generally will not, or cannot, adopt the English system of making cheese. "I remain yours faithfully, (Signed) J. G. l\1'KIRDY." To J. B. Greenshields, Esq.,} Yr. of Kerse. To this the Author would add, that it is only by the utmost care and attention, not only in making, but in ripening and housing cheese, and sedulous attention to all tbe newest improvements, that such sums as 90s. per cwt. can ever be hoped for, but that from lOs. to 15s. additional per cwt., on Dunlop prices, are within the reach of those with ordinary conveniences who will adopt the Cheddar system and give it fair play, aided in a moderate way, if requisite, by landlords and factors, in the manner here proposed.

COCKEY'S CHEESE-MAKING APPARATUS. This pamphlet cannot be drawn to a close without some allusion to a patent t3ken out about five years ago by Messrs Cockey & Sons, of Frome, in Somersetshire," for warming milk, and scalding the curd in the cheese-tub." The same apparatus can also b6 applied to conducting hot water through the cheese-house for heating it. The principle on which Messrs Cockey work their apparatus is the same which is carried out in the heating of green­ houses and churches, and in many instances supplying dwelling-houses with hot water. It consists of a cheese-tub, having a double bottom forming a chamber into which the hot water flows; a heating boiler set in brickwork; -1w!U:iatems#ooeinto ~ch_~wa..ter flows,lI.Ild which contains a. suppll 30

tor the dairy, the o~her for passin~ cold water wh.e~ required, a~d pipes (with taps, &c.,) conn~cting them. It IS feared that It IS too comphcated for the generality of dairymaids, who, when called upon to work so many taps off and on would rebel. But as this may fall into the hands of some who may wish to prosecute the investigation of improved methods of ma~in~ cheese, this notice has been taken of it. In parts of the country where fuel IS scarce and dear, the register boiler may he of importance, if testimonials cnn be credited; still to Scotch minds it is unnecessary to do more than apply the old saying, "the proof of the puddin' is the preein' ~'t." Messrs. Cockey ~ Sons do not, in their advertisement, make any alluslOn to the pl"lce of theIr apparatus, which, of course, must vary with circumstances! ~ut several pr.ac­ tical people who have been consulted in Scotland are of opmlOn that nothmg can surpass a stove or fire-place in a cheese-house. It may be well to men­ tion that some English farmers approve highly of Cockey's apparatus, others, I am informed, have discontinued it. A:lIERICAN CHEESE. This pamphlet professes to give an account of English cheese-making, 7 /1' but the following very brief notice of American dairies, chiefly gleaned from VlI'C,~ a vebmin 'IS official Report presented to Congress some time ago upon the ., / ~sources of the U. S. of America, cannot fail to prove interp.sting. The / reporter proceeds to state that some of their dairies have about 90 cows, nnd that complaints had been made of pork, cheese, butter, and other pro­ visions when exported that they were defective. He justly remarks that the " seller must study even the prejudices of his customers, and with a view to improvement..Jl,uotes Dr. Playfair, of Europe, that science has detected by analysis that the milk of the evening was less rich than that of the morning, arising, as he believes, from waste by respiratory oxidation. The milk ot' the evening produced 3.7 per cent. of butter, while that of the following morning produced 5.6 per cent. Soiling to a certain extent is therefore ad­ visable, because the auimals get their food with less waste of body by fatigue, and milking three times in twenty-four hours is insisted on, so that the ani­ mals may never be oppressed with a weighty load to carry. Although the Report does not state so, it is inferred that the animals would yield more milk by this system than by milking twice only in tile day, but they must be fed on something better than grass merely.- Accordingly the best mana~ed . -f,:J American cows get each 2~ to 3 quarts of oatmeal a-day, mixed ill SOlLe cases . among whey, but unfortunately the Report does not state what a solid -;yl: " American quart measure containsnb' Ii,! "'1 fi ar" i& 's piGS Fed, jg the j CL-.G~ same measure of '1 aRtit; QI tl:i 8 .ER#I"oh quat t bottle, ; iz., 0 e s' tk f & . / ~ 'Vhen butter only was the object, as many as 18 Ibs. ofblltter a-week J._.:~ ,fer cow have been attained to. One CO" in the state of New York is men­ fL.. '-9 .tioned which in twenty-one days gave 6lik lbs. of butter, or at the rate of 1 'lb. for 5 quarts of milk, but 1 lb. for 10 quarts is admitted to be a high MeMk~ver~ge. Most probably the New York cow to which the reporter alludes t-.~ was lI~porte~ f~om England, and was of the Guernsey breed, fed with every . sort of nourlshmg food. Great importance is attached to all dishes when of 2 ~OOd, ~eing of American white oak, as there is a pyroligneous ac.'id about ~ J I most kinds of wood which decomposes salt and imparts a bad taste to milk or cheese: T~e ~ellow weed called butte,.cup is carefully to be eradicated by top-dressmg, hmmg, &c., and bone dust as a manure to be avoided as it has ca~sed chee~e i~ ~ngland to deteriol:ate. So states the reporter. F;ve~·y 100 lbs. weight of milk, If the cows a~e well fed, ought to yield 311bs. of butter, 6 Ibs. of cheese, 14 lbs. of buttermilk, and 76t lbs. of whey. A farmer in Oneida C~. f!·om 20 co~s, (c~mmenoing 15th April and ending 1st December,) by mllklD.g three times m twenty-four hours, and giving each cow whey from 1ihe dairy and two quarts of oatmeal per day, obtained 10,000 Ibs. of cheese and 1000 lbs. of butter in the season, or an average of 500 Ibs. of cheese and • A practical r~.nd. who ha. been in Amen.... says by hlgh·feedlng and three milkin the yield about om.th.zrd more milk, but that without high-feedmg you may as "ell crop th ega~ d 00"1 after year, gl"mg It only II culter and sock," as ~ continue the system of exhausting COWI. no J yeai'

t- P. 1 P;; }/./Jy V:;VI< aJ [t :r <..- , ~/'f'~ - I~ = 3'~. 4 (w6-re ~L~ Z-~= 12«~,:;: b,.2 ~ ~ 'k~= / ~trlY4. =/j4.4 Lf~ ~ ?~7 _ / ~"=:

50 lbs. of butter per cow. From this our Scotch farmers will form their own conclusions. Each row yielded nearly l~ Ibs. of butter a-week, and and about 4~ cwt. ot American cheese during the season. Pigs in America, or hogs as they are called, do not require the whey, as they are turned into the woods until autumn, when they are hunted up and fattened oft' on Indian corn and potatoes. The Report notices the magnitude of the London market, which had been estimated to consume annually at least t.hirty-eight millions of Ibs. of cheese, and nineteen millions of lbs. of butter; but as it has been calculated that when the census is next taken. London in 1861 will contain no fewer than 2,900,000 inhabitants, this immense population will probably devour from forty to fifty millions of Ibs. of the former, and from twenty to thirty millions of Ibs. of the latter, i.e., between 350,000 and 400,()00 cwti. of ooeese, and between 178.01;0 and 268,000 cwts. of butter, or at least the produce of fifty dairy Parishes, all as large as Lesmahagow or Strathaven.

NOTE.-While these pages were passing through the press, the Author has received numerous communications, many of them of an interesting nature, but he regrets they cannot now be printed. To all bis kind f'rieru:ls be begs to return his wry best thanks. One party suggests tbat Cockey'S appar­ atus could be very mucb simplified without interfering with his registered boiler; another that by placing one cast-iron boiler inside a much larger one, the innel' onc having a broad flange at the top overlapping, by connecting the lower one with the boilers already in use at every farm steading, the lower one might be made to contain hot water,and the upper one would serve for making the chepse. Another party suggests that a large tin tnb, with the milk to be thickened, might be hoisted by a crane over or into the boiler, which exists in every boiler-home, and thns the temperatnre of the thickening be regulated The Italian cheese called the Parmesan, which is so highly prized, is made much in this way, and strange to narrate, is made entirely of skim milk. Mr Arthur Young, so well known as "old Arthur Young," observed in Italy the operation of making Par­ mesan, and described it as mixing the evening milk. after it has stood about sixteen hours with the morning. milk, after it had stood about six, (so that the cream niight all be skimmed oft',) and then suspending the whole in a large copper vessel by a crane, over a slow wooden fire. It is unnecess­ ary to describe the whole operation, further than to notice that the milk was kept about 82 degrees for an hour and then thickened, and after an other bour the rennet had operated. After the curd was broken, and part of the whey taken oft', the remaining whey and curd were half bolled, being kept from singeing by beinl! constantly stirred. 1'he curious reader is referred to Mr Young's work, and others on cheese·making. A successful "Cheddar" maker, near Ayr, writes that he and other" Cheddar" makers have no diffi­ culty in selling their cheese at a much higher "figure" than Dunlop will bring, and if landlords, factors, and tenants understood one another about "crack" accommodation, the Somerset "tip top' system would gain ground in Ayrshire. He thinks there is nothing else wanted, to prevent a perfect imitation, and two influential practical men are named who will corroborate the above. He has gained the first prize for "Cheddar," at Ayr, for two years in snccession. 1'he Author has also the opinion of a cheese dealer in Ayr, that the "Cheddar" made in Ayrshire bas not the flavour of th~ English, but the dealer does not give the reason. It may perhaps become a question in future, should the Scetch farmers not get full English prices for their Cbeddar, on tbe score of flavour, whether tbe grasses should not be cultivated which grow in permanent pasture in England; but when it is remembered that in Somersetshire drilling green crop is almost unknown, and that the rotation of crops is very imperfectly undersfood, it would be a backward revolution to follow the system of general farming which there obtains. It is only in cheese-making t~t the Sco_tch are behind. J?~ofes.!<>!: Lo,!~eJ!.tions that Jf the. 32 land is to remain only one year in grass, rye grass alone ~il1. be sufficient to form with clovers good forage, and herbage; yet tlIat It .wln add to tlIe produce even £01' a slngle year, to sow with it a small proportlOn of the see<,ls of any of the indigenous grass('s, and of'these ~he best is the meadow cat:s tall, because it is most easily propagated, and arrives the soonest at maturity.

Say Rye grass, 17 Ibs·1 "d ~ :Meadow cat's tail, 3 " l.g ~ Red clover, 8 " f 0 ,." White clover, 2' g. ~ 3oi'j;, ~~ But if the land is to remain more -than one year in grass, he recommends Meadow fox tail, 31 Ihs. Meadow eat's tail, ~ " Rough cock's foot, ,'; Meadow fescue, 2 Rough stalked meadow grass, '1 " Rye grlLss, 12 Red clover, 2 White clover, •• 6 Bush vetch, tufted vetch, or other peren- niallcguminou8 herbage plants,. 2

34 lhs. A hyhrid clover called alsik,ie has of late come much into notice. If any difficulty is experienced in procuring those grass seeds, it is be­ lieved that they may he obtained from Messrs Lawson & Son, seedsmen to the Highland Society in Edinburgh. In Somersetshire the grass is eaten on th" land ",here it grows, soiling heing unknown. As much hay is secured as will carry the cattle through the winter. As the climate is milder than in the North, the quantity required is comparatively trifling. Theil' hay is natural hay, and contains, like their pastures, many grasses, which in Scotland are considered as weeds. STILTO~ CHEESE. The EnglislI method of making Stilton cheese is so generally known in Scotland that the Author had intended to make no allusion to it, but he has been reminded that his pamphlet would be more complete were the receipt given. It is this:- Put the night's cream into the morning's new milk, along with the rennet. When the curd is" come" do not break it, but take the whole carefully out and put into a sieve, to drip gradually. While this is going on, press the mass gradually and gently, and when it has become firm and dry, put it into a mould orr!~" but take care that some trifling moisture remains. _ -;-These cheeses are made in the counties of Leceister, Huntingdon, Rntland, ~orthampto? Stilton hei~g at first only a favourit.e m~rket. They are some­ tImes made III a net, and III the shape of an acorn or pille apple. They will not" take" in the market until two years old, and hlue with mould. There are tricks to make them blue prematurely, which consist ot combining heat with moisture, and in some eases, it is said, mixing wine with the curd, in others pouring wine into holes in the cheese. When the cheese is thick it is known as Cottenham cheese. What is known as cream cheese is made in the same manner, but eaten when a few days old, when it very much resembles butter in appearance and consisteney, but in flavour is not so delicate. It may be made of any shape, but is usually in the shape of a pine apple.