Stanford Alpine Club Journal, 1958
STANFORD ALPINE CLUB JOURNAL 1958 STANFORD, CALIFORNIA i-., r ' j , / mV « Club Officers 1956-57 John Harlin, President John Mathias, Vice President Karl Hufbauer, Secretary William Pope, Treasurer 1957-58 Michael Roberts, President Karl Hufbauer, Vice-President Sidney Whaley, Secretary- Ivan Weightman, Treasurer ADVISORY COUNCIL John Maling, Chairman Winslow Briggs Henry Kendall Hobey DeStaebler Journal Staff Michael Roberts, Editor Henry Kendall, Photography Sidney Whaley Lenore Lamb Contents First Ascent of the East Peak of Mount Logan 1 Out of My Journal (Peru, 1955) 10 Battle Range, 1957 28 The SAC Trans-Sierra Tour 40 Climbing Notes 51 frontispiece: Dave Sowles enroute El Cafitan Tree, Yosemite Valley. Photo by Henry Kendall Grateful acknowledgement is made to the following: Mr. Richard Keeble, printing consultant Badger Printing Co., Appleton, Wise., photographic plates, press work and binding. Miss Mary Vogel, Appleton, Wise., composition and printing of text. Fox River Paper Corporation, Appleton, Wise., paper for text and photographs. FIRST ASCENT OF THE EAST PEAK OF MOUNT LOGAN by GILBERT ROBERTS Mount Logon. North America's second highest peak at 19,850 feet, is also one of the world's largest mountain masses. Located in the wildest part of the St. Elias Range, it has seen little mountaineering activity. In 1925, the first ascent was accomplished by a route from the Ogilvie Glacier which gained the long ridge leading to the summit from King Col. This ascent had gone down as one of the great efforts in mountaineering history. McCarthy, Foster, Lambert, Carpe, Read, and Taylor ulti- mately reached the central summit after months of effort including the relaying of loads by dog sled in the long Yukon winter--a far cry from the age of the air drop.
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