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Chinese Malaysian Flavours an Anthropological Study of Food and Identity Formation in Penang

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Chinese Malaysian Flavours an Anthropological Study of Food and Identity Formation in Penang Chinese Malaysian Flavours An anthropological study of food and identity formation in Penang Master’s Thesis by: Solvor Horrig Helland Department of Social Anthropology, University of Oslo Spring 2008 II III ”The discovery of a new dish is more beneficial to humanity than the discovery of a new star” (Brillat-Saverin 1926:xxxiv) IV V Abstract This thesis is based on a six months fieldwork on the Chinese community in Penang, a small island-state on the west coast of Malaysia. My intention is to shed light on the connection between Chinese Malaysian food, ethnic identity and national attachment. The scope of this thesis is therefore to demonstrate how my Chinese informants used cooking, ingredients and eating habits in order to maintain and express their ethnic identity – within the Chinese community as well as in relation to their significant “other”, the Malays. I will suggest that food is part of what incorporates the Chinese in a moral community and helps unifying the different sub-divisions from within. Ethnic groups cannot exist in isolation though, but are always defined in opposition to other relevant groups (Barth 1969:14-15). I will therefore also show how food serves to differentiate the Chinese moral community from other moral communities on the island. In particular the single ingredient pork can be seen as an ethnic marker which highlights the different value systems of the Chinese and the Muslim Malays. I will argue that from a Chinese viewpoint these conflicting foodways also reflect the wider social, political and ethnic conditions in the country as well as their ambiguous minority situation. The Malaysian national ideology is based on principles of culture, race, language, religion and territory and the Chinese Malaysians are therefore defined as outsiders. They are Malaysian citizens but lack the defining incorporating features needed to legitimate their national belonging and identity within such a racial and indigenous state (Surydinata 1997:4- 6). At the same time they continue to maintain various economical, religious and cultural bonds to China, something which serve to enforce their in-between situation in Malaysia. Neither foodways nor identities are fixed or static entities though. On the contrary they are social constructions emerging from dynamic processes of borrowing, reinvention and negotiation. A particular Chinese dish with a mix of local and traditional components can in other words reflect both cultural continuity and local transformation (Tan 2001:140). I will argue that the widespread Chinese appropriation of local ingredients and cooking principles can symbolise the construction of a “new” localised Malaysian identity, clearly distinguished from both the Malays and the Chinese in Mainland China. Changing foodways can in other words be utilised by the Chinese in an attempts to incorporate themselves in the nation-state on their own terms VI VII Acknowledgements Two years of my life a master student in social anthropology is now a thing of the past. The final outcome of these months, weeks, days and hours, spent in the tropical heat of Penang as well as in front of my computer in the reading hall, is the thesis you are holding in your hands at this moment. I realise now that I went into this project a bit blue-eyed. But then again it is impossible to fully understand the amount of work behind such an assignment until you’ve actually experienced it first hand. More than anything else my time as a master student has taught me a lot about myself, about my strengths and shortcomings. Although it has been a mind-wrecking journey in many ways I will look back on this period as one of the most challenging and satisfying adventures in my life and I am proud of myself for going through with it. One thing is for sure though; it wouldn’t have been possible without the people who have backed me up throughout the whole process, both academically, practically and personally. First of all I must thank “Emilie”, her family and the “Choo’s” for their practical assistance, hospitality and friendship. To protect their anonymity I cannot mention their real names, but without their help this thesis could not have been written and I am deeply grateful. My heartfelt gratitude also goes out to my advisor Professor Unni Wikan for inspiring conversations, encouragement and constructive feedback. Her positive and forthcoming attitude has been invaluable for the completion of this thesis and I cannot thank her enough. In addition I’m grateful to Professor Ingrid Rudie for taking the time to read through parts of my material and share her extensive field experience with me both before and after my stay in Penang; Professor Signe Howell, who was my advisor the first two semesters and who provided me with valuable practical and theoretical assistance prior to, as well as during my fieldwork; Elin Renate Henne for her useful comments and suggestions after reading through my drafts and Associate Professor Susanne Brandtstäter for recommending relevant literature on the topic. Finally I’d like to thank to Universiti Sains Malaysia for helping me acquire a student visa and letting me use their facilities; Bente Nicolaisen and Associate Professor Anne B. Leseth at UiO for instructive seminars and for being helpful and accommodating; my fellow students for always cheering me up and making my days at Blindern entertaining and VIII memorable, and my friends and family, my parents in particular, for their continuous love and support. Most importantly, however, I am deeply grateful to all the people I got to know in Penang. Unfortunately I cannot mention you by name, but hopefully you all know who you are. Thanks for letting me into your lives, your homes and your families. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and opinions, and last but not least, your food, with me. Solvor Horrig Helland, Oslo, June 2008 IX Table of Contents Introduction and theoretical framework .............................................................................. I Important contributions to the study of food in anthropology..........................................................3 “50 Years of Nationhood” – The nation‐state, Islam and ethnic politics in Malaysia................4 Food and collective identity...............................................................................................................................5 Earlier research.......................................................................................................................................................7 National and transnational identities............................................................................................................8 Structure of chapters .........................................................................................................................................10 ONE: East of India and West of China in the kingdom of spices...................................13 History of immigration......................................................................................................................................14 Geography...............................................................................................................................................................16 Georgetown............................................................................................................................................................17 TWO: “Have you eaten yet?” ...................................................................................................19 Penang, the “Food Paradise”............................................................................................................. 19 My first taste of Penang ....................................................................................................................................21 Being a guest..........................................................................................................................................................25 Sidewalk eating.....................................................................................................................................................27 Food in mind..........................................................................................................................................................30 Experience of taste and location...................................................................................................................31 Conclusion ..............................................................................................................................................................33 THREE: Informants and reseach methods..........................................................................35 Informants ..............................................................................................................................................................35 ‘Studying up’ ..........................................................................................................................................................38 Language and complexity of the Chinese community .........................................................................40 Arenas.......................................................................................................................................................................42 Research methods...............................................................................................................................................43
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