SOLIDARITY ROUTE Gdańska Organizacja Turystyczna Ul. Uczniowska 22, 80-530 Gdańsk The peaceful Solidarity revolution - our biggest national success - began in Gdansk. tel.: (+48) 58 305 70 80 tel./fax: (+48) 58 301 66 37 It was the beginning of the fall of communism, e-mail: [email protected] not only in Poland but in all of Europe. www.visitgdansk.com We are delighted to invite you for a walk along the route through SOLIDARITY, places and ideas. TOURIST CARD YOUR WAY THROUGH GDANSK TABLE OF CONTENTS

START 1 2 GDANSK GLOWNY GDANSK MONUMENT TO RAILWAY STATION SHIPYARD THE FALLEN SHIPYARD WORKERS OF 1970 PAGE 5 PAGE 7 PAGE 8

5 4 3 ST. NICOLAS ST. BRIDGET’S EUROPEAN CHURCH CHURCH SOLIDARITY CENTRE PAGE 11 PAGE 10 PAGE 9

6 7 8 ST. MARY’S DARIUSZ KOBZDEJ KING CHURCH ROCK MONUMENT JOHN III SOBIESKI MONUMENT PAGE 12 PAGE 13 PAGE 14

11 10 9 ANNA OPERA BAŁTYCKA MONUMENT TO ANTONI BROWARCZYK WALNTYNOWICZ TRAM STOP AND THE VICTIMS MONUMENT OF MARTIAL LAW PAGE 16 PAGE 17 PAGE 15

12 13 14 THE FIRST HEADQUARTERS HEADQUARTERS NATIONAL OF THE INTER-COMPANY FOUNDING COMMITTEE OF NSZZ “SOLIDARITY” NSZZ “SOLIDARITY” DELEGATES CONGRESS PAGE 18 PAGE 19 PAGE 20

16 15 TOURIST CARD JOHN PAUL II WALESA FAMILY YOUR WAY THROUGH GDANSK PARK APARTMENT IN ZASPA PAGE 22 PAGE 21

Solidarity Route 3 START photo: Gdansk Tourism Organisation

4 Solidarity Route GDANSK GLOWNY RAILWAY STATION Podwale Grodzkie 1 street

The railway station’s building was erect- ed in 1900, in a style called the Gdansk version of the Dutch renaissance. It was the scene of the December rebellion events - workers’ strikes that spread across the Polish seaside between 14 and 22 December 1970. The workers were pro- testing against food price rises. On 15 De- cember 1970, a column of strikers walked in front of the Gdansk Glowny Railway Station. On that day Kazimierz Stojecki - a shipyard worker - died under the cater- pillar tracks of an armoured personnel carrier. The militia troops and army used firearms to shoot at the workers. 41 peo- ple died during the December rebellion: 18 of them in Gdynia, 16 in Szczecin, 6 in Gdansk and 1 in Elblag. The experience that the workers gained, and the memory of those killed in December 1970, paid off in August 1980. “December was grey and gloomy, while August was cheerful and joyous”, recalls Jerzy Czarnecki, one of the shipyard workers.

1 | 2 | 3 Walk through the tunnel to cross the street, turn left and continue towards pl. Solidarnosci. After about 10 minutes, you will reach the old gate to the shipyard, the European Solidarity Centre and the Mon- ument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers of 1970.

Solidarity Route 5 1 photo: Zenon Mirota / ESC Archive Collection of European Solidarity Centre

6 Solidarity Route GDANSK SHIPYARD Solidarnosci Square

In Communist Poland, Lenin’s Gdansk lowed these tragic events, people secretly Shipyard was the largest manufacturer brought flowers and candles at the gate, of ships in the country. It dates back to which the officers of the Security Service the 19th century. Before it opened, Jan (SB) immediately removed to blot out the Klawiter’s shipyard was located there, memory of the victims that was uncom- but the Cesarska Shipyard and Schichau fortable for the authorities. In 1980, during Shipyard gave rise to the current one. the August strike that broke out to protect After WWI, an international company Anna Walentynowicz, a democratic op- was formed here that included capital position activist who was laid off, Gate 2 from Poland (20%) and Gdansk (20%) but became a symbol. People spontaneously also from Great Britain and France (30% decorated the gate with flowers and hung each), and the shipyard was named The a painting with the Black Madonna of Cze- International Shipbuilding and Engineer- stochowa and a photo of Pope John Paul ing Company Limited. During WWII, the II. It was a meeting place for strikers and shipyard was fulfilling orders for Krieg- their families. Crowds of Gdansk residents smarine, the navy of the Third Reich. Af- came here to support the protesters. On 31 ter the war, the two plants, the old Gdansk August 1980, Lech Walesa climbed Gate 2 Shipyard (formerly Cesarska Shipyard) and announced the end of the strike and and Schichau Shipyard, were combined signing of the Gdansk Agreement. During to create one state-owned enterprise - martial law in Poland, Gate 2 was rammed Gdansk Shipyard. In the 70s and 80s, in by a tank. After 1989, it became an impor- its glory days, it had around 17 thousand tant memorial. employees and covered an area of ap- On 18 January 2019, the funeral proces- proximately 70 hectares. Today, the area sion of Gdansk Mayor Pawel Adamowicz of Gdansk Shipyard takes up an important walked through Gate 2. space in the memory of Poles and Europe- ans, who saw the workers’ strikes in the 70s The building, today called the OHS ROOM, and 80s and the birth of the Independent was put up at the end of the 19th centu- Self-governing Labour Union “Solidarity”. ry and served as torpedo storage. In the The workers’ strikes and the formation of 1960s, it was rearranged to form a training Solidarity are one of the most important building and later a shipyard’s conference events in the modern history of Poland and room and museum were created here. the whole world because they contributed During the December rebellion, the OHS to the fall of the communist empire and Room was the scene of the negotiations the recuperation of full freedom in many between the shipyard’s Council of Dele- countries. gates and the management. At the end of the 70s, the building was modernised. The main entrance to Gdansk Ship- In 1980, the OHS Room witnessed the ses- yard leads to the HISTORICAL SHIPYARD sions of the International Strike Commit- GATE 2. Today, you can go through with- tee (MKS) that represented the protesting out a problem but just several years ago, workplaces. Key negotiations with the rep- guards checked documents, and unwel- resentatives of national authorities were come visitors were not let in the facility. conducted here. The representatives of On 16 December 1970, this place was the the government agreed to the strikers’ de- scene of drama. The army opened fire mands, and on 31 August 1980, they signed on the protesting workers in front of the a historic agreement. The first independ- gate. Two shipyard workers lost their lives: ent labour union in the Eastern Bloc was Jerzy Matelski and Stefan Mosiewicz. 11 formed then - the Independent Self-gov- people were injured. In the years that fol- erning Labour Union “Solidarity”.

Solidarity Route 7 2photo: Stefan Kraszewski / ESC Archive / Collection of European Solidarity Centre MONUMENT TO THE FALLEN SHIPYARD WORKERS OF 1970 Solidarnosci Square

It was the first monument in Communist months of intense works, on 16 December Poland commemorating the victims of 1980, in the presence of the representa- the communist regime. The demand for tives of Solidarity, the Catholic Church, the honouring the people killed in December communist authorities and thousands of 1970 was first made in 1971 by Henryk Le- people from across the country, the Mon- narciak - a shipyard worker and partic- ument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers of ipant of the strikes. The authorities ini- 1970 was unveiled. The monument is com- tially agreed to the workers’ demand but prised of three 42-metre crosses with an- eventually they backed away. The only chors nailed to them - the sign of hopes thing that the strikers could do was to keep crucified during the workers’ strikes in 1959, bringing flowers and candles to Gate 2. In 1970 and 1976. The monument features August 1980, the International Strike Com- bas-reliefs with scenes from the shipyard mittee made the construction of the mon- workers’ lives and a quote from “You Who ument one of its demands. After a mass Wronged”, a poem by Czeslaw Milosz. celebrated on 17 August in the same place that the shipyard workers died, a wooden The monument became a memorial to, cross was embedded in the ground and a and symbol of, Poland’s route to freedom. mock-up of the monument was put in the The figures that paid a tribute to the vic- OHS Room. A shipyard engineer, Bogdan tims and everyone who contributed to vic- Pietruszka, is the author of the monument tory over communism here include Pope concept. John Paul II, U.S. presidents - Ronald Rea- gan and George Bush senior - and Prime The project was accepted by the Inter- Minister of the United Kingdom Margaret national Strike Committee and on 1 Sep- Thatcher. In 2005, the leaders of European tember 1980, the Social Committee on the countries signed the foundation act for the Monument was established. After three European Solidarity Centre.

8 Solidarity Route photo: Renata Dąbrowska / ESC Archive / Collection of European Solidarity Centre EUROPEAN3 SOLIDARITY CENTRE Solidarnosci Square 1 The European Solidarity Centre (ECS) is a the boards which the strikers wrote their 21 cultural institution that commemorates the demands on in August 1980 and hung them peaceful Solidarity revolution, cultivates its on Gate 2. Today, they are considered to be memory, supports freedom movements, in- one of the most important documents of the itiates a debate on the modern world’s prob- 20th century - they are listed in the Registered lems and educates on how to think and act Heritage of the UNESCO’s Memory of the World together. The ECS was created in 2005 thanks Programme. There is the battery-driven truck to the initiative by Gdansk mayor Pawel Ada- that served as a mode of transportation, po- mowicz. The headquarters on pl. Solidarnosci dium and confessional during the strike, the 1 was opened on 30 and 31 August 2014. From jacket with a bullet hole that belonged to the outside, a building with a unique design 20-year-old Ludwik Piernicki who was one of that blends in well with the shipyard’s archi- the victims of December 1970, and there are tecture can be seen. Inside a winter garden, also films, stories and installations. Visitors can an auditorium, a library, workshop rooms, an explore the permanent exhibition by them- archive, a multimedia library, headquarters selves, with an audio tour or a guide. of Gdansk non-government organisations, The historical Gdansk Shipyard building com- Lech Walesa’s office, and Fun Department for plex - the OHS Room, Gate 2, Solidarnosci children can be found. The observation deck Square with the Monument to the Fallen Ship- offers a panoramic view of the old Gdansk yard Workers of 1970, as well as the European Shipyard and the Old and Main Town. Over Solidarity Centre - were awarded with the 500 events take place in the ECS every year, European Heritage Label. The ECS was the including conferences, debates, festivals, chil- first institution in Poland to be honoured with dren and youth projects, theatre performanc- the 2016 Council of Europe Museum Prize. It es and film screenings. was recognised as a “fascinating example of The permanent exhibition is the heart of the a cultural institution that promotes freedom building, and we recommend it. In a sug- and solidarity”. gestive and modern way, it tells the story of / ecs.gda.pl Solidarity - a social movement that, at its peak, had 10 mln members and carried out a peaceful revolution - but also the story of opposition movements and changes that 4 took place in Central and Eastern Europe. Turn left onto Lagiewniki street and walk Visitors can see different exhibits, including to Stolarska street. You will see a church on your right. Solidarity Route 9 4 photo: Gdansk Tourism Organisation ST. BRIDGET’S CHURCH Profesorska 17 street

The beginnings of the church date back to the 14th century. Its long-term par- ish priest, the Rev. Henryk Jankowski 5 (1936–2010), had a huge influence on Go back to Stolarska street and then walk its post-war history. He was named the across Igielnicka street towards Podwale chaplain of Solidarity after he celebrated Przedmiejskie, turn right and cross the a mass for the strikers in August 1980 in street to Lawendowa street, which leads Lenin’s Gdansk Shipyard, and the parish to the church walls. later became the spiritual centre for Soli- darity. In the years that followed, it served as an informal office of Lech Walesa and Solidarity, a charity centre and a centre for anti-censorship culture. After church services that celebrated the motherland, Lech Walesa used to speak during mass meetings. The church features the world’s biggest amber altar whose central part is the fig- ure of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the Protec- tor of the Workers.

10 Solidarity Route 5 photo: gdansk.pl ST. NICOLAS CHURCH Swietojanska 72 street

One of the oldest churches in Gdansk, The monk also taught self-education build at the end of the 12th century, and classes to young people, mainly students the only one to survive WWII intact. The from high schools in Gdansk - High School interior maintained its rich Gothic, Re- no. 1 and “Topolowka” (High School no. naissance, Baroque and Rococo fur- 3). The church was also home to a cre- nishings. In the 13th century, the church ative chaplaincy and hosted exhibitions, was taken over by the Dominican Order. theatre performances and meetings with During the Communist Era, the church authors, including Zbigniew Herbet, Wisla- played an important role as an opposi- wa Szymborska, the Rev. Jozef Tischner or tion cultural and education centre. Here, Ryszard Kapuscinski. Leading opposition father Ludwik Wisniewski (born 1936) led a activists, including Tadeusz Mazowiecki university chaplaincy that included oppo- and Bronislaw Geremek, also met the resi- sitionists like the founders of the Young Po- dents of Gdansk here. land Movement, such as Aleksander Hall, IMPORTANT! The church is currently closed Arkadiusz Rybicki, Grzegorz Grzelak, Maciej due to construction. Grzywaczewski, Dariusz Kobzdej and Mari- an Terlecki. 6 Go back to Lawendowa street and con- tinue walking down Szklary and Zlotnikow streets, which lead to St. Mary’s Church.

Solidarity Route 11 6 photo: Gdansk Tourism Organisation ST. MARY’S CHURCH Podkramarska 5 street

The Basilica of the Assumption of the People were praying in front of Our Lady of Blessed Virgin Mary in Gdansk (St. Mary’s the Gate of Dawn for three months, for the Church) is the biggest medieval brick release of the activists arrested after par- church in Europe. One of the important ticipating in the patriotic demonstration of figures that contributed to the creation 3 May 1980. In the 80s, the parish house of the Gdansk patriotic and opposition was a secret meeting place for activists movement was the parish - the Rev. of Solidarity, which was declared illegal Jozef Zator-Przytocki (1912–1978). After after the introduction of martial law. WWII, he was arrested for being a mem- ber of the Home Army, put under a brutal Honoured residents of Gdansk were buried investigation and sentenced for 15 years in here for centuries, including Maciej Plazyn- prison. After leaving prison, he returned to ski - Gdansk governor, Marshal of the Sejm Gdansk. Despite persecutions by the na- and Deputy Marshal of the Senate, who tional authorities in relation to the criticism died in the plane crush near Smolensk, as against the Polish People’s Republic, he did well as Pawel Adamowicz - Gdansk mayor not stop his pastoral and patriotic activity. who was murdered. He was the one to initiate the masses to celebrate the country on national holidays that were not recognised by the authori- ties - 3 May and 11 November. 7 Walk down Swietego Ducha street to Targ Drzewny and then turn right.

12 Solidarity Route 7 photo: gdansk.pl DARIUSZ KOBZDEJ ROCK MONUMENT Kobzdeja Square

The rock featuring Zbigniew Herbert’s It was one of the biggest opposition ac- poem “The Envoy of Mr. Cogito” com- tions at the Seaside that helped the whole memorates Dariusz Kobzdej (1954–1995), Tricity learn about the imprisoned oppo- an opposition activist in the Polish Peo- sitionists. They were released after three ple’s Republic. Even during his years at the months. At the party that was held on 9 Medical University of Gdansk, he became August in their honour, in the apartment a member of the Movement for Defense of opposition activists Ewa and Piotr Dyk, of Human and Civic Rights. In 1978 and the date and manner in which the August 1979, at Gate 2 in Gdansk Shipyard, despite strike was supposed to start in Gdansk the authorities’ objection, he and his col- Shipyard was secretly agreed. leagues publicly paid tribute to the people murdered in December 1970. He was one Dariusz Kobzdej participated in the August of the leaders of Young Poland. On 3 May strike in Gdansk Shipyard. He then led the 1980, after a patriotic demonstration, he regional and later also the national Com- was beaten and arrested by the Security mittee for the Defence of Prisoners of Con- Service and then - together with Tadeusz science. He was in hiding during the mar- Szczudlowski - sentenced for three months tial law period. After 1989, he got involved in prison. In defence of the prisoners, print- in social and humanitarian activity. He ers produced around 100,000 leaflets. died from pneumonia.

8 The monument is located at the heart of Targ Drzewny, in front of the square.

Solidarity Route 13 photo: 8Janusz Bałanda Rydzewski / ESC Archive / Collection of European Solidarity Centre KING JOHN III SOBIESKI MONUMENT Targ Drzewny

The monument by Tadeusz Baracz that In the 70s and 80s, it witnessed patriotic commemorates the victory of King John demonstrations that began in St. Mary’s III Sobieski over the Turks in the Battle of Church. Today, it is a must-see place on Vienna (1683), was funded by Lviv res- the map of the Independence Parade that idents in 1989. Five years after WWII, it takes place on 11 November. The events was returned to Poland from Lviv, which that commemorate the adoption of the belonged to the USSR back then. It was Constitution of 3 May. brought to Gdansk, with which John III Sobieski developed a strong relationship - he owned many starosta estates in Po- merania. His son was born in Gdansk and 9 supported the construction of the King’s Cross Waly Jagiellonskie street and walk Chapel. Similarly to Lviv residents, the down Hucisko street to reach Targ Rakowy. monument became a symbol of freedom for the people of Gdansk.

14 Solidarity Route 9 photo: gdansk.pl MONUMENT TO ANTONI BROWARCZYK AND THE VICTIMS OF MARTIAL LAW Targ Rakowy

The monument, which takes the form of toni Browarczyk was fatally shot and was a bas-relief, was designed by Giennadij one of the first and youngest victims of Jerszow and unveiled in 2016. It com- the martial law. A poem written by his sis- memorates Antoni Browarczyk (1961– ter Grazyna was inscribed on his grave at 1981) and other victims of martial law in Lostowice Cemetery: “Here lies our Polish Gdansk. Antoni Browarczyk was a fan of man, a son, and the painful truth is that he Lechia Gdansk, attended the meetings fell on the street of Gdansk, shot by a fellow held by the Dominican Order and worked Polish man.” in electromechanical plant. After August 1980, he joined Solidarity. He distributed leaflets, put up posters and took part in demonstrations. 10 | 11 Let’s go to Wrzeszcz district. Take tram no. On 17 December 1981, violent street fights 2, 6 or 9 from Brama Wyzynna. The 10th broke out in the centre of Gdansk. After 4 stop on the route does not require you to p.m., the officers who guarded the Com- interrupt your journey. Get off at Miszewsk- mittee of the Polish United Workers’ Par- iego street and go up Grunwaldzka ave- ty in Gdansk (a big white building; now nue until your reach a square. headquarters of the prosecutor’s office on ul. Waly Jagiellonskie 36) used firearms to shoot at the protesters. 20-year-old An-

Solidarity Route 15 10 photo: gdansk.pl OPERA BAŁTYCKA TRAM STOP Zwyciestwa 15 avenue

Here, on 15 August 1980, Henryka Krzy- The strike was saved - Lech Walesa an- wonos (born in 1953), a tram driver, said nounced that the protest in coopera- to the passengers: “This tram is not go- tion with other plants would continue. ing any further!”. The strike of the Public The International Strike Committee was Transport corporation, called the “nerve appointed and Henia - the tram driver - of the Tricity” that sympathised with the joined it. protesters in Gdansk Shipyard had start- ed in the morning. On 16 August, after Lech It enacted the 21 demands referring to so- Walesa announced that the protest end- ciety in general, including the demand for ed, Henryka Krzywonos, together with Ali- free labour unions and the right to strike. na Pienkowska, Ewa Ossowska and Anna Henryka Krzywonos was one of the signa- Walentynowicz, was stopping the workers tories of the Gdansk Agreement. that were walking out of the facility.

16 Solidarity Route 11 photo: gdansk.pl ANNA WALNTYNOWICZ MONUMENT Anna Walentynowicz’s Square

The monument to the democratic oppo- od. In 1991, she started working in Gdansk sition activist in the Polish People’s Re- Shipyard because she had one year left public, designed by Stanislaw Milewski, to retire. It turned out that ZUS (social in- was unveiled in 2015. Anna Walentynow- surance institution) had lost some of her icz (1929–2010) was a welder and later a documents. After one year, she said: “I am crane operator in Lenin’s Gdansk Shipyard. leaving. This time for good and for the first She was an activist in the Free Seaside time of my own free will.” She died on 10 Labour Unions. On 7 August 1980, she was April 2010 in the government plane crash notified that she had been laid off, which near Smolensk. On the day of the unveil- was an obvious harassment because she ing of Anna Walentynowicz’s monument, was supposed to retire in just five months. Gdansk mayor Pawel Adamowicz re- The August strike in Lenin’s Gdansk Ship- ferred to her as the “crane operator who yard broke out in her defence. Anna changed the world”. Walentynowicz joined the management of the International Strike Committee.

When the fate of the strike was at stake on 12 16 August, she saved it, together with other Continue walking up Grunwaldzka ave- women, by stopping the shipyard workers nue, turn into Romana Dmowskiego street. that were leaving the facility. After August Nearby, on Sienkiewicza 10 street, there is 1980, she criticised Lech Walesa and was a board that commemorates the resident removed from the union’s management. of this tenement house - Arkadiusz Rybicki She was kept under the surveillance of (1953–2010) - a co-founder of the Young the Security Service, arrested many times, Poland movement. and detained during the martial law peri-

Solidarity Route 17 12 photo: gdansk.pl THE FIRST HEADQUARTERS OF THE INTER-COMPANY FOUNDING COMMITTEE Romana Dmowskiego 13 street (formerly Juliana Marchlewskiego street)

This tenement house was home to the first meeting took place on 3 September. first headquarters of the Inter-company It was agreed that the union organisations, Founding Committee NSZZ “Solidarity”. that were forming across the country, On 1 September 1980, after the signing of would be focused as part of the region- the Gdansk Agreement, the presidium of al structure. Soon, it turned out that the the Inter-company Founding Committee place was too small to handle the crowds was transformed into the presidium of of people and cases. The union members the Inter-company Founding Commit- had to move... tee (MKZ). The premises were granted to the activists by Gdansk governor Jerzy Kolodziejski, before the strike in Gdansk Shipyard ended. 13 Go back to Grunwaldzka avenue and turn On 1 September 1980, the apartment on right. You will soon reach number 103. Marchewskiego street was filled with the strike organisers, co-workers, newcomers from different parts of Poland and a line of people formed outside the building. The

18 Solidarity Route 13photo: Leszek Biernacki / ESC Archive / Collection of European Solidarity Centre HEADQUARTERS OF NSZZ “SOLIDARITY” Grunwaldzka 103 avenue

The headquarters of NSZZ “Solidarity” over by the troops of the Motorised Re- were moved to the former Morski Hotel, serves of the Citizens’ Militia (ZOMO). The which no longer exists. The ground floor doors were broken down with axes and of the building was home to the shipyard’s crowbars, equipment was destroyed, and club “Ster” where, on 17 September 1980, documents were thrown away. Such sad a meeting of all activists from across the pictures marked the end of Solidarity’s country took place. Over 200 people from second headquarters. The union was de- 30 cities debated on the way the unions clared illegal. should be organised. They decided to form one labour union.

The institution that was coordinating the 14 activity of the union’s regional and com- Let’s move on to the Oliwa district. The pany structures was the National Liaison easiest way to get there is an SKM train Commission (KKP). from Gdansk-Wrzeszcz that we can reach by turning onto Klonowa street from The name was coined by Karol Grunwaldzka avenue. Get off at Gdansk Modzelewski. As he was passing through Przymorze-Uniwersytet. Hala Olivia is lo- Pruszcz Gdanski during the August strike, cated at Grunwaldzka avenue, opposite he saw a banner “MKZ - solidarity” in one the station (you can see it from the SKM of the production halls. On 13 December platform). 1981, the union’s headquarters was taken

Solidarity Route 19 photo: Leonard Szmaglik / ESC Archive / Collection of European Solidarity Centre NATIONAL14 NSZZ “SOLIDARITY” DELEGATES CONGRESS Hala Olivia, Grunwaldzka 470 avenue

The sports and entertainment arena was ed, together with a national reform pro- opened in 1972. In September and Octo- gramme titled “Self-governing Republic”. ber 1981, it was rented by the authorities The demands included: a universal right of NSZZ “Solidarity” that were hosting to work, clear division of the national au- the sessions of the first National NSZZ thorities’ competencies, democratisa- “Solidarity” Delegates Congress there. tion of public life, creation of employees’ It was a huge project in terms of organi- self-governments in workplaces, and local sation. 898 delegates arrived from across governments. Since the delegates under- the country. The guests were accommo- stood the power of the ideas of solidarity, dated in hotels and student dormitories they adopted the content of the appeal to in Gdansk. The arena, where the sessions activists from other Eastern bloc countries. took place, also hosted a big press centre In the “Message to the People of Work from with phone booths, teleprinters, industrial Eastern Europe” they called for a collabo- television, interpreter booths and poly- rative, joint fight for their rights. graph equipment.

A newspaper, Glos Wolny [Free Voice], came out during the sessions. It was also 15 published in English (Congress Post). 18 It is a 25-minute walk during which we union delegations arrived from the West- go back to Kolobrzeska street, turn left to ern countries; 720 guests were invited by Slupska street; we reach Hynka street and Lech Walesa. 275 foreign journalists re- then turn left onto Pilotow street (apart- ceived accreditation, including ones from ment block no. 17 is located near Startowa the Soviet Union and China. The congress street). We can also take the SKM train that was the scene of a genuine debate, a sub- will take us to Gdansk-Zaspa and we will stitute for a free and democratic Poland. arrive at the destination after a 10-minute During the congress, in democratic elec- walk down Franciszka Hynka street. tions, the union chose its leader - Lech Walesa. Over 70 documents were adopt-

20 Solidarity Route photo: Stefan Kraszewski / ESC Archive / Collection of European Solidarity Centre WALESA FAMILY15 APARTMENT IN ZASPA ul. Pilotów 17 D In 1968, Lech Wales rented a room in a monitored 24/7, it was also the meeting tenement house at Kartuska 28 street place of activists but also famous figures and later in a tenement house on Mal- from Poland and abroad. Elton John was czewskiego street and a detached house one of the guests who visited the apart- at Beethovena 30d street, and in a ho- ment on Pilotow street. When, in 1983, resi- tel for employees on Klonowicza street. dents of Gdansk learned that Lech Walesa In 1972, Lech Wales, as an employee of received the Nobel Peace Prize, crowds Lenin’s Gdansk Shipyard, was assigned a turned up again under the balcony of his 36-square-metre, two-bedroom apart- apartment in Zaspa. In the 80s, the Wale- ment in a housing complex in Stogi district, sa family apartment in Zaspa was con- at Wrzosy 26 c/5 street. He lived there until sidered the most important place for the 1980 with his wife Danuta and five children. Solidarity opposition. Many years after the After the August strike ended, by the deci- family moved out, we can still find mem- sion of the governor on 4 September, the orabilia of the most famous resident of Walesa family received a new apartment this neighbourhood. On one of the tower at Pilotow 17d street that combined two blocks on at Dywizjonu 303 no. 33a street, apartments. The move was made possible an artist, Rafal Roskowinski, commemorat- thanks to... journalists from the West who ed Walesa together with John Paul II, and profiled the leader of the strike who was at Pilotiow 17f street, we can find Solidari- living with a big family in two rooms. The ty’s leader’s face outlined in pixels by artist apartment in Zaspa became the centre Piotr Szwabe. These works are part of the of the leader’s meetings with the activists, Monumental Painting Collection that fea- reporters, politicians and ordinary people. tures nearly 80 projects, large-format mu- During the martial law period, crowds of rals on the walls of the highest apartment marchers gathered in front of the apart- blocks and entrances to the blocks (http:// ment block to support the interned un- muralegdanskzaspa.pl/). ion’s leader. On 1 May 1982, a huge crowd of Lech Walesa’s supporters marched the streets and ended with a demonstration in front of the apartment block in Zaspa. After 16 Solidarity was declared illegal in the mar- Go back to Hynka street, continue walking tial law period, an informal office of the up the street until you reach the crossing organisation was also located here. Under with Rzeczyspospolitej avenue. The park is complete control of the Security Services, located on the other side of the avenue. Solidarity Route 21 16photo: Janusz Uklejewski / ESC Archive / Collection of European Solidarity Centre JOHN PAUL II PARK An area between Jana Pawla II avenue and Rzeczypospolitej avenue

The park that covers an area of over 25 ha So never one against the other. Some commemorates the mass for the people against the others. And the ‘burden’ should of work that Pope John Paul II celebrated never be carried by one man. Without the for millions of people on 12 June 1987. The help of others.” pope’s visit was an important event for Solidarity that, impaired by the martial Today, the visit from John Paul II that law period, could manifest its presence was so important for Gdansk, Poland and again and, in fact, was the foundation of Europe, resonates in the park that was the political transformation. The pope’s named after him and the statue of the altar that was built in Zaspa, which went pope nearby. down in the history of such projects, was designed by Marian Kolodziej, a theatre stage designer. The structure, which was end several dozen metres high, was an alle- Our journey has come to an end. Thank gory of the Church’s ship. It also evoked you and remember to practise interper- associations with the shipyard and the sonal solidarity! protesting workers. The pope referred to the work ethic which was so important to Solidarity. “Carry each other’s burden - this concise sentence formulated by the Apostle is an inspiration for interperson- al and social solidarity. Solidarity means both, and so the burden is carried togeth- er, within a community.

22 Solidarity Route Trail of Freedom and Lech Walesa

While following the Solidarity Trail around meetings took place, including the deter- Gdansk, be on the lookout for the oval mination of the date for the August Strike, plaques installed on some local buildin- as well as Walesa’s house at 17 Pilotow gs – they mark places linked to various Street, where family life was interwoven Solidarity-related activities of President with union activities and the meddling of Lech Walesa. The first plaque was unve- the communist secret service. iled in September 2018 as part of the 30th anniversary celebration of Lech Walesa The Trail of Freedom and Lech Walesa receiving the Nobel Peace Prize. was inspired by the book Gdansk wedlug Lecha Walesy (Lech Walesa on Gdansk) The plaques enable everyone to discover by Piotr Adamowicz, Andrzej Drzycim- the sites of various important events, such ski and Adam Kinaszewski, published by as the First National Congress of Delega- the Gdansk Municipal Office in 2008. The tes of Solidarity, which took place in Hala enamelled oval plaques were designed by Olivia. Other important locations inclu- Dr Anita Wasik from the Gdansk Academy de the house of Ewa and Piotr Dyk at 10 of Fine Arts. Sienkiewicza Street, which is where secret

photo: Grzegorz Mehring /gdansk.pl

Solidarity Route 23 Gdansk Tourism Organization Uczniowska 22 St., 80-530 Gdansk

phone: (+48) 58 305 70 80 e-mail: [email protected] www.visitgdansk.com

Texts and substantive study: dr Jakub Kufel, dr Przemysław Ruchlewski, Katarzyna Żelazek European Solidarity Centre