HELSINKI STREET EATS

By Bryan Boyer & Dan Hill With Ville Tikka, Nuppu Gävert, Tea Tonnov & Kaarle Hurtig Menu

Background Why Street Food? Why Helsinki? Why Now?—2

Four stories Esplanadi, 1938—9 about how we Ullanlinna, 1960—10 eat Kallio, 2011—11 Tähtitornimäki, 2011—12

How we got to A bit of history—14 where we are First Golden Age—16 today Regulations emerge—21 From Prohibition to the Olympics—22 Social mores & bee!urgers—28 A second Golden Age dawns?—34

What’s next? Opportunity Space—37

Supporting A night on the town in 2011—55 documents A day in the city—69 How to read a hodari—85 So now what?—94

Etc. References & further reading—96

List of plates—97

Credits & contacts—98

1 The story of street food in Helsinki connected and increasingly urban nation, is inextricably tied to food in Finland in and of Helsinki defining itself as a contem- general, and so caught up in deep currents porary European city. of regulation, politics, commerce, national Imagining potential futures of street food identity and culture. As food is cultural in Helsinki, we first step back to consider artefact as well as sustenance and resource, the broader developments related to food its story is a manifestation of the nation de- and drink in the context of the last 150 fining itself, of becoming an industrialised, years. While this short publication cannot

2 WHY STREET FOOD? WHY HELSINKI? WHY NOW?

go into the depth this history genuinely capable of changing very quickly and with warrants the concept of ’path dependency’ great effect. But in uncovering the past, we tells us that our futures are likely to emerge may find traditional approaches or long- from ingredients already present in our forgotten precursors which are ripe for culture today. reinvention. We also know that change can be sudden Street food is interesting because it is and rapid, and that street food can be a highly visible, accessible, and a carrier for volatile, even mercurial, part of culture, cultural change. While the ‘new Nordic

3 ‘City Hall Square’, 1820. The tori, or marketsquare, has remained the focus of Helsinki’s street food for centuries, but should it be the only place? Ravintolapäivä suggests a range of alternatives ...

cuisine’ with its focus on local and seasonal own culture, and allows visitors an easy ingredients is radically re-shaping how way into foreign cultures. people think about fine food around the Helsinki has been chosen as a way of world, and while the City’s culinary culture filtering the subject matter and focusing strategy will enable organic food to flourish the conversation. In terms of quantities and within the city’s päiväkoti (daycare) system, attention it represents the epicentre of Fin- the effects of these trends and strategies land’s food systems. While there are many are initially within a limited ecosystem, other food traditions within the different only addressing particular strands of regions and cultures that comprise Finland, society and so with a slow trickle-down to as a ‘pocket metropolis’ the reasonable wider culture. scale Helsinki can work as a prism through However, street food—late night grub, which to observe these systems. coffee stands, mobile kitchens, kiosks, Sitra is interested in understanding the hole-in-the-wall sandwich joints, market systems of everyday life, in order to assess stalls—affects a wider culture through its how best to support, influence, and invest sheer everydayness. It is everywhere and into them to enable a greater capacity for forms an integral part of our public life, our sustainable well-being. civic spaces, our streets, our neighbour- As Sitra’s Strategic Design Unit, we are hoods. Street food also tends to require interested in exploring the possibility of smaller investments, with individual busi- tangible prototypes to catalyze strategic ness operating at a smaller scale and allow- impact. We pursue this through several ing innovation to happen at an accelerated tools and approaches, including the ‘studio’, pace. Seen from this view, it is a breeding a week long engagement designed to distill ground for innovation that can percolate diverse inputs into a clear vision. A core upwards. The speed of street food is excit- component of the studio is the ‘challenge ing, but can it be more than fast food? briefing’, a document produced to unpack a While street food can affect culture, it is particular problem area. This deliberately also a representation of our culture through stops short of framing detailed questions, its diversity, quality, footprint, and person- as those will emerge through subsequent ality. It helps individuals articulate their prototyping.

4 Why? We cannot understand the potential futures of street food in Helsinki without considering developments over the last 150 years

This particular document is a form of ‘challenge briefing’ presently without a studio, a summary of thinking, case studies and research in order to better understand the architecture of the problem. We hope that it provides a few clues as to core is- sues and next steps, as well as uncovering precursors, but is not intended to directly engage with policy, governance or the market at this point. That will follow as our work on this topic evolves. But we start with some stories.

Why? 5 6 FOUR SHORT STORIES

7 8 Esplanadi, 1938

Snow falls softly on Esplanadi, dulling in Helsinki, designed as a jewel to top the noise from a passing truck. German the ‘Industrial Palace’ building. A liveried soldiers are heading north, fresh o! the black porter welcomes in well-heeled SS Ariadne passenger steamer pu!ing members of the Helsinki set, shuttling smoke into the cold night air at as it sits in to and fro in a series of small elevators the South Harbour. from ground floor to the birch-veneered The bar at the Kämp Hotel is warm, interiors above. The menu is also French- noisy and packed by comparison, full inspired, but peppered with the first of journalists, academics, politicians, dashes of a Finnish fine cuisine: boiled wealthy industrialists and their wives, halibut with hollandaise sauce; smoked and what is still a relatively new breed in salmon with spinach. Finland: international tourists here to see Down below Savoy, a man sways on a the ‘Daughter of the Baltic’. There is much street corner, his hat and heavy overcoat chatter about the rumour that Greta casting a bulky shadow across the snow Garbo has been seen vacationing in the as he glugs pontikka from a bottle. The Åland Islands. It’s early evening. Cigarette prohibition act had been rescinded in smoke curls around the bar. Helsinki’s Finland a few years earlier, but years of bourgeoisie are picking at canapés to illegal distilling of pontikka has left a accompany their cocktails, vol-au-vents healthy—or unhealthy—surplus of lethal prepared by the hotel’s French cooks. home-brew on the market. He draws a few Across the grass and gravel promenade admonishing glances from the elegant outside Kämp, the glass terrace of the ladies chattering in the doorway of Kämp, Savoy restaurant glows golden in the of which he is entirely oblivious. dark sky. Savoy is a year old and still the The snow falls… talk of the town. The restaurant had been architect Alvar Aalto’s first commission

Four short stories 9 Ullanlinna, 1960

The woman shifts nervously from foot That the new owner of the restaurant is to foot outside the restaurant’s doorway. a woman, Mrs. Paukka, is an irony also not Above her, a green neon sign sputters lost on her, but it makes no di!erence. For into life, casting the restaurant’s name in all her progressive attitudes, the woman flowing script across the elegant square, had never been to a restaurant before, although the sun seems to have no inten- just as no-one in her family had. But she’d tion of disappearing anytime soon. Still, it heard about Mrs. Paukka’s new menu—in was late, and he was late. particular the crispy fried Baltic her- She dares not go into the restaurant rings—and had pestered the man about without him. This is not simply a mat- going for weeks. ter of etiquette, or timidity on her part; The sharp new kiosk across the square, it’s the law. In Finland, women are not owned by the restaurant and the only one allowed in restaurants unless accompa- in the country with an alcohol license, is nied by a man, so she waits. She finds this full of men sitting, smoking, drinking, eat- faintly o!ensive, as she’s heard that the ing gelato, workers from banks and docks reasoning is that women in a restaurant alike gathered around the small tables or bar on their own could only be there for under the trees. She feels their eyes occa- one thing, and it wasn’t the food. sionally upon her. The woman pulls a copy Dancing isn’t allowed either, for similar of Kaunis Koti from her bag. She’d just reasons; this she finds more ridiculous bought the magazine from the R-Kioski than o!ensive. There had been some on Korkeavuorenkatu, and had intended progress, however: after the Helsinki to save it for the tram ride home, but it Olympics, Alko, who set such rules, had would prove more useful as a screen to deigned to allow the introduction of hide behind for the moment. something equally licentious: the bar A skid of leather shoes on the cobbles stool. behind her, accompanied by “Anteeksi!”...

10 Four short stories Kallio, 2011

The death threat is both unlikely and damage will follow. Someone will get entirely expected. It’s also to be taken quite badly hurt. seriously. But not too seriously. It comes In the middle stands the grilli, impas- with the territory, after all. The photog- sive, impenetrable, a robust metal box as rapher engages in light-hearted if careful if designed to be hosed down, purveying conversation with the very drunk man gobbets of impossibly unhealthy, ge- who claims to have previously killed neric processed meat product in various at least two people. Sitting down, the forms and quantities, designed to line the conversation meanders slowly away from stomach after a long night of drinking. homicide, to life on the street in general. Hot dog sausages, burgers, patties, meat The photographer relaxes a little, and pie—all are essentially the same: meat, his camera continues to surreptitiously salt and fat, supported, if not obscured, take in the scene. All around, a familiar by seas of ketchup, mustard and garlic chaos is unfolding. The odd stumbling sauce. Delicious, if you’ve been helped scu!les flaring out of nowhere, punctuat- into the right state of mind. It’s e!ectively ing the raucous backdrop of shouts, leers the only place to get food of any kind on and intoxicated bravado. People stagger a late Saturday night in Kallio, as it is with around, faces buried in the folds of white all the grillis in town. paper clutched to their mouths such that The drunk’s eyes roll up into his head, you can’t tell if, or what, they’re vomit- and he slumps backwards against the ing or ingesting. The floor is awash with tree. The photographer moves his camera steadily increasing amounts of greased in as close as he dares, loosing o! a couple litter. Some corners of the square attract of shots before he moves on. vomit, others urine. Some mild property

Four short stories 11 Tähtitornimäki, 2011

The queue along the footpath stretches few hundred sated stomachs and happy back some 10 metres. Groups of Helsinki memories, and a cluster of ‘Likes’ on a hipsters chat and eat while sitting on the Facebook page. It’s August 22nd 2011. grass. A fold-up table supports steam- The unnamed thai kitchen in the park ing tureens of tom ka, which is why this under the Observatory is participating in queue exists halfway along a random Helsinki’s second Ravintolapäivä, or ‘Pop- pathway down Observatory Hill. up Restaurant Day’. Small paper lanterns are strung be- Elsewhere in the city, over one hun- tween trees. Some older residents are dred similar pop-ups are popping up at also present amidst the colourful throng that very moment. Cup cakes and tapas, of customers. Smiles are in abundance; falafels and burritos, flat whites and everyone is enjoying the warm spicy thai frogs’ legs, all served from parks, apart- soup as well as each others’ company, ment windows and street corners—Ravin- basking in the warm glow familiar to so- tolapäivä encourages a range of food not cial eating experiences. And to chilli. usually available in Helsinki’s streets to The other ingredients—coconut milk, be served from places not usually allowed lemongrass, chicken, ginger, coriander to do so, often by people not in the day- leaves—are spread out next to the table. to-day business of running restaurants. A simple board leans against one of the Like all the other pop-ups, the tom ka trees. “Tom ka, 2 euros.” stall is only semi-legal, or semi-illegal These impromptu markers—the lines of perhaps, though its hard to reconcile any lanterns, the queue, the pools of seated sense of criminality with the obviously punters sprawling on blankets on the hill- good-natured atmosphere in the late side, and the serving table-cum-kitchen summer sun on Tähtitornimäki. Despite at its centre—describe the footprint of the wait for the next batch to bubble up Helsinki’s newest restaurant, a restau- from the portable gas cooker, the queue is rant which has no name and which will all expectant chatter as it starts to stretch only exist for this one Sunday. There will up the hill to the playground… be no trace by Monday morning, save a

12 Four short stories 13 A late bloomer, Helsinki grew up drawn on the timeline of the city. The last quickly. Through industrialisation and mi- couple years of fast-paced invention and de- gration, its landscape and culture changed velopment may well be the latest such age. distinctly from decade to decade from the Equally, there are troughs as counterpoints mid-nineteenth century onwards. The to the peaks, where the city’s food habits city’s food cultures can be seen as one of represent a diminished cultural system, its more visible and meaningful manifesta- threatened through war, recession or other tions. Esplanadi in 1938, say, represented a restrictive practices of various kinds. These quite different Helsinki to that of the belle peaks and troughs are not simple linear epoque thirty years prior, just as it feels ‘a progressions, but sometimes simultane- foreign country’ to the Helsinki of 2011. ous and overlaid, fractured across different Several ‘golden ages’ of food culture can be groups of the population, and across differ-

14 A BIT OF HISTORY

ent spaces and times of day. well as feeling the implicit effects of also be- This historical trajectory in Helsinki is ing seat of the national government. further entwined with that of the nation, The story of food culture in Helsinki and in particular the interplay between the is, then, also a story of urbanisation and beliefs and practices of its authorities and migration, national independence and the changing attitudes and lifestyles of its identity, world wars and multi-culturalism, citizens. Under the ‘Nordic Model’, the influ travel and globalisation, technology and ence of the state and municipal govern- popular culture, human rights and the ments is perhaps stronger than many other deconstruction of class society, the Nordic Western nations. Within Helsinki this au- Model and the European union. thority is concentrated and multi-layered, comprised of strong local government as

15 First Golden Age

Although it would be possible to reach it had been caught by the frost, and this back to pre-urbanised ‘peasant’ food sweet, golden fruit had turned red and culture for a fuller history, our timeline bitter. But among the other wines they essentially starts as Helsinki itself develops served an old wine in old glasses, and what beyond Sveaborg, the pawn in a high-stakes is more, it was a Rhine wine to which large game of chess between Sweden and Russia, cubes of sugar had been added. It was in and into an international city in its own this wine that we drank the toasts—The right. dancing in Helsinki was a hundred times A smallish town founded in the mid-16th better than the food.” century, Helsinki was nonetheless a key By the mid- to late-19th century, how- node in Baltic navigation routes, and by the ever, the Europe-wide ‘Belle Epoque’ en- early 19th century the city benefited from sured that Helsinki’s food culture, at least cultural impact of several seafaring nations, amongst the upper class for whom the ep- through trade and military influence. oque was particularly belle, was influenced In 1809, this meant an increasing by foreign cuisine from France, Scandinavia Russian influence in particular, though ac- and Russia. This rich cuisine was intro- cording to the notes of the visiting Prince duced by the wealthy foreign visitors and Gagarin, this had yet to extend to the nice- Finns who were able to travel abroad on the ties of food preparation and presentation grand tours of the age. expected by visiting royalty: By the time a French traveller, X. “The councillors and elders of this distin- Marmier, wrote about Helsinki in 1843, the guished city did not scrimp on the number city was a stew of cultural influences, again of courses served nor on the honours be- at least for the upper class and wealthier stowed, but the fish became mixed up with bourgeoisie: the meat, and the meat with the seasoning. “The saloons of the aristocrats are just The olives and cucumbers did not wait for as elegant as their most beautiful counter- the roast, but the currants came before the parts in Paris, and the society circles that truffles and the truffles before the purée. frequent them, Finnish in their hearts, Rus- The dessert was crowned with an orange, sian by force of circumstance and French in but shamefully aware of its deformity as spirit and customs, display to the foreigner

16 First golden age Helsinki’s harbour during the Grand Duchy of Finland, under the Russian Empire, ca. 1890. Helsinki begins to emerge as a city at this point, building on several hundred years of cultural interchange thanks to its strategic position. Now, after the relative homogeneity of the 20th century, can we look to food as a bellwether that a similarly diverse multi-cultural city is emerging once again?

an unusual composition of ideas, with the built in 1839 and the kiosks built in the old sympathies and traditions, their new 1860s by Hartwall, a local beverage firm. aspirations and their many languages. In Although promenading on Esplandi the course of one evening you can hear folk would have been the pursuit of upper class tales from the Tornio Valley, anecdotes flaneurs, as a public space it was effectively from the Imperial court and the latest news open to all. Urban researcher Anne Mäki- from France. First they praise the singing of nen has discussed the rise of leisure time, M. de Lamartine, then a naïve Finnish bal- and in particular leisure time spent outside lad, Swedish verses by Tegnér or the Rus- of the home, increasing in the late-19th sian elegies of Mdme. the Countess Rostop- century, with the culture of ‘sitting out- chin. An officer from a distant garrison tells side’, and being seen to do so, increasingly of the wild tribes of Siberia in the Caucusus, fashionable. one of the ladies tells of her recent journey These historic kiosks, tied closely to to Italy, another passionately describes the Helsinki’s identity, are still present at the banks of the Neva, and al the mélange of corner of South-Esplanadi and Fabian- facts, analyses and cosmopolitan stories is inkatu, where an original kiosk from 1883 quite enchanting.” stands proudly, still serving snacks and refreshments. In parallel and as a result, a significant Lower down the social scale, the work- restaurant and café scene began to emerge, ing classes had their own establishments almost from nothing, such that profes- — cheap, folksy kitchens and diners — but sional chefs and waiting staff from Europe when wages allowed, the new kiosks be- and Russia cooked and served in Helsinki’s came popular with all, not simply as a space finest restaurants, such as Hotel Kamp and for socialising but also for taking the ‘tonic’ Kappeli. of mineral water at a time when pure, safe Esplanadi had became the primary prom- drinking water was not widely available in enade in town some decades before, after the city. These mineral waters, introduced the park was opened in 1812, but was now from central Europe, were the top sellers of punctuated by outdoor cafés and kiosks, their day. such as pastry chef Johan Jerogren’s kiosk Despite that stew of cultures being drawn

First golden age 17 Port of Helsinki, 1856. As the city developed, Helesinki developed a highly-controlled concrete edge to its harbourside, preventing everyday people from contact with the sea, and sea-borne trade. Do we now use these edges of Helsinki as well as we might?

variously from the maritime tradition, market to market, and attempting to lure spoils of empire and the grand tours, Hel- customers with cries of “Harosjii, maros- sinki remained a relatively small city, if not jii!”. more of a large town, until the industry-led Leaving aside the ‘democracy’ of the growth, and accompanying migration, of market, two cities co-existed in terms of the 1870s. By 1905, Helsinki had 100,000 built form too. This was a period of rapid residents, enough critical mass to generate urban expansion, and the turn of the cen- its own cultures as well as absorb others tury witnessed further flourishing of stylish from elsewhere. kiosks and outdoor cafés in the centre to Yet public space in the city, as elsewhere, accompany the high quality of architecture continued to be divided by class and status. springing up in the city. This is the Helsinki Merja Sillanpää, a researcher on Finnish of Esplanadi and Bulevardi, and the Jugend- food culture, sees a clear ‘tale of two cities’ inspired buildings of Ullanlinna and Eira. within Helsinki at this point. Architecturally, Helsinki is a city of de- The centre was the playground of the tails, components and urban environments, emerging bourgeoisie and residual upper as opposed to formal experimentation at class, with a further subdivision on Espla- the building scale, and as Mäkinen ex- nadi, the prime real estate for promenad- plains, the beautification of the city would ing, with the Finnish-speaking ladies and be achieved though these kiosks as much gentlemen strolling along the southern side as through the grand buildings around and the Swedish-speaking along the north. them. Thanks to spaces like Esplanadi, and The lower working classes were to be its activation through the kiosks and cafés found towards the outer margins of the city, dotted along its length, Helsinki gained then delineated between Korkeasaari and a reputation as one of the most beautiful Seurasaari. European cities at this point. The marketplace, however, pulled all A Belgian journalist, Jules Leclercq, who classes and social groups together. There, visited Helsinki in 1913 and later wrote Russian and Greek immigrants would sell a book “Finland of Thousand Lakes”, previously exotic treats such as ice cream described the city as the “most beautiful and tobacco from their carts, touring from northern capital that even Stockholm and

18 First golden age Sauna on Mariankatu, 1913. Helsinki is a city of details, of hidden jewels, underground lairs, tacit understandings and stolen courtyards. Street food lends itself to inhabiting and enlivening informal spaces—but how to make the opaque or tacit visible and explicable, without losing its intensely local identity?

St. Petersburg didn’t compare to”, and that “one might think he’s strolling on Tullier’s or Champs Elysee” when he admired the scene of happy children playing with their hoops around the summer cafés, and exotic palm and banana trees of early 20th cen- tury Esplanadi. At the unregulated edges of the city, however, a kind of rough and ready street food offer from stalls and carts developed, a mobile condition which was in line with the variable, vernacular architecture and tough living conditions of that environment. The desire to continue to beautify the inner city whilst sanitizing the outer city would lead to a period of regulation within Helsinki that would directly affect the food culture over the following decades, inad- vertently (perhaps) reversing the cultural diversity and entrepreneurial exploration of this first ‘golden age’.

First golden age 19 Regulations emerge

Helsinki’s entrepreneurial food culture in need of guidance from the authorities, had first emerged from regulatory frame- usually in the form of restrictive regulation works such as the Business Freedom edict rather than more preventative educational of 1879, introduced under Russian rule. approaches. From within these formalised structures, Such data that exists about alcohol though, a new culture emerged, linking the consumption indicates that there had been blossoming of a nascent Finnish national no increase towards the end of the 19th identity with changing mentalities and century, yet these ideas—temperance, and tighter regulations to match. restaurants being a social problem—even Sillanpää’s intriguing research directly became a widespread notion amongst the links the Fennomen movement, who cre- general public, in some sense fuelled by the ated this new and idealised image of Finn- ongoing Russian oppression. Restauran- ish national identity, with the temperance teurs themselves suffered in the eyes of the movement, which was of course blossoming general public. Almost in inverse relation- elsewhere around the world at that time. ship, as restaurants became to be seen as In this vision, the ideal Finn was a sober, dens of iniquity, temperance associations moral and patriotic figure, an appealing became popular gathering places, particu- construct in a period of flux. The educated larly given the pressing political climate classes latched onto this model of a new reduced places and occasions to discuss Finnish citizen quickly, associating with and build sense of identity elsewhere (Sil- this virtuous ideal, at least notionally. lianpää 2002). The ideas quickly took root. Temperance was a core component of The Friends of Temperance was established this new virtuous ideal, which of course in Helsinki in 1884, but by 1888 over thirty began to directly affect restaurant culture. other societies had come into being (with Restaurants were increasingly couched as over 600 local societies by 1904.) dangerous establishments, and essentially As a result of this external pressure, ‘out of control’ licentious places. This was the nascent restaurant and café scene in overlaid with the idea that the working Finland suffered. A groundswell of opinion classes couldn’t, or wouldn’t, control their around temperance led directly to tight- drinking and hold their liquor, and were ened regulations and monopolistic, restric-

20 Regulations emerge Russian street vendors in late 19th century Helsinki. Why is Russian cuisine largely absent in today’s Helsinki?

Regulations emerge

tive alcohol licensing practice coming into factor with a long-lasting inhibiting impact, force in 1876. Unlike elsewhere in Europe, arguably to this day. In 1899, the regula- the development of countryside inns and tions for food vending were tightened by pubs suffered from early prohibition prac- the City, particularly around the vending of tices, such that they never had a chance to meat and other perishable food produce. prosper. This change in cultural identity This was ostensibly to address the potential combined with urbanisation to produce a spread of diseases throughout the city, and general resistance to restaurants amongst so would also fall in line with traditional the Finnish working class in particular. concerns about the ‘externalities’ of urban- For country dwellers and urban labourers, isation elsewhere. restaurants were seen as a) Swedish, and In Helsinki though, the regulations b) urban, both of which were somewhat extended into the aesthetic—in terms of foreign, if not a little terrifying. For many, style, quality and placement—of furniture this would remain the case until perhaps and vending equipment, which came under the mid-20th century. scrutiny from the City Magistrate, who Food hygiene would also become a had the authority to grant street vending significant issue around this time, another permits.

Regulations emerge 21 From Prohibition to the Olympics

The steady emergence of a national iden- regulations would diminish with every tity in Finland was thrown into sharp relief kilometre from the city centre and the seat by World War I and Finnish independence. of power. While the centre was tightly con- Although the Fennomens and others would trolled through the new laws, the edges of breath life into this new national identity the city were growing more spontaneously, by drawing from the past, contemporary such that roadside coffee shacks and food ideas around rationality and functionality kiosks continued to sprout up, serving the would also manifest themselves in this new more working class Helsinki residents. culture, not least in food culture. Although public intoxication had been While the war itself would have an impact a crime since 1733, prohibition came into on cuisine throughout its duration, its true effect in 1919. The combination of the Fen- effects would become articulated in the new nomens and the broader temperance move- regulation of the national government, as ment had actually produced the lowest Finland emerged from 1917 as an indepen- drinking rate in Europe, but it had not been dent nation. concretized into law. Indeed, Tsar Nicholas This included a new Health Care Order had rejected four previous proposals for in 1917, governing the street vending of re- prohibition. freshments, sandwiches and coffee, which Combined with the formal end of Russian was extended in 1919 in order to actively influence, and particularly through the rich limit the spread of coffee shacks, as well as food culture of St. Petersburg, the twin ef- decrease the use of underage employees. fects of tightened legislation and narrowed Additionally, food carts had to operate cultural identity had a drastically diminish- within designated vending locations, as ing effect on Helsinki’s restaurants. Add to well as meeting tidiness regulations. this mix shortages of food, as logistics net- Similar approaches were emerging else- works were dismantled by the war effort, where within Europe, often allied to ratio- as well as strong regulations on valuable nalist philosophies around both hygiene products such as meat and sugar. and morality, and from within modernist Foreign chefs, as well as other restaurant architecture and planning sensibilities. employees, fled the country throughout In practice, though, the influence of these the war years and post-prohibition, leaving

22 From Prohibition to the Olympics May Day., 1961. While the festival of Vappu has always been good clean fun, even back in the early ‘60s, do Helsinki’s rituals rely on being “well-oiled” a little too much?

Finland with a significant skills gap. Kitch- be felt in Helsinki, where many bars are ens and dining rooms found themselves still without bar counters. Dancing was also bereft of an entire layer of experience and prohibited, as it would surely encourage craft, all almost systematically removed in alcoholism, though the effect of this ban less than a decade. has not been so lasting. Prohibition was in effect for only 13 For Alko, the primary function of restau- years, but its impact on alcohol licensing rants was to serve food, not conviviality. and restaurant permits was long lasting. Restaurants were a tacit mechanism for During these years smuggling became teaching people civilised manners. This significant, along with production of the bleak, rather stunted view of food culture illegal ‘home-brew moonshine’ of pontikka, ended with the 1952 Helsinki Olympic and violence and crime rates soared. (Sa- Games. riola 1954) Although public opinion swayed Events can change cities, and not simply against prohibition, leading to its repeal through the provision of new hard infra- by popular referendum in 1932, it was not structure, but through through the soft until 1952 that Helsinki recovered. infrastructures of cultural practice too. Ur- Alko, the Finnish Alcohol Company, had banist and architect Timothy Hill points to been given monopoly over licensing in the Expo 88 in Brisbane as a key turning point 1930s. Arguably, however, it was drawing for the city. Despite Queensland’s subtropi- from the 1880s in terms of its approach to cal climate, it was only then that people public alcohol consumption. Alko would discovered the joys eating at outdoor cafés, only grant alcohol permits to the finest and the city began to emerge from a simi- restaurants in town, implicitly curtailing larly conservative, if not repressive, street the establishment of many then-emerging culture. ideas around food culture. In 1952, much of Europe was still under Yet Alko’s remit also extended to the fur- the pall of destruction and displacement niture inside establishments. The humble cast by World War II. In Britain, for exam- bar stool, and the entire bar counter itself, ple, food was still heavily affected by ration- were banned, as they were seen to encour- ing, doing little for the national mood—JG age prostitution. The effect of this can still Ballard has said it was as if Britain had actu-

From Prohibition to the Olympics 23 The Helsinki Olympics in 1952 saw a lightening of both mood and ally lost the war—and it took the Festival of regulation Britain in 1951, with its newly constructed showpiece leisure palaces along the south bank of the Thames, to begin to restore national confidence and ambition. For a Finland heavily affected by the war, the 1952 Helsinki Olympics saw a lightening of both mood and regulations. Although the Stadium. The legacy extended to more than global impact of a 1950s Olympic Games buildings, though. barely compares to the live broadcast Lonkero, aka Gin Long Drink, was cre- spectacles of the present day, Helsinki was ated specifically for the Olympics, and is placed on a world stage for perhaps the first something of a national speciality. A blend time since Independence and the battles of of gin and grapefruit soda, it was served the eastern front in World War 2. pre-mixed in factory-produced bottles in We are left with the physical markers order to sell large quantities as quickly as from that time, in terms of civic infrastruc- possible to thirsty crowds; thus, it arguably ture and buildings such as the Olympic has the dubious honour of being the first Stadium, Linnanmäki and Tennispalatsi, ‘alcopop’.. The Hartwall variety ‘Original but the global influence on local cultural Gin Long Drink’ is still a bestseller in Alko change was perhaps as significant, if less stores today. easily perceptible at first glance. When it came to food, curious visitors to Many new restaurants were created for the Olympics expected to be able to taste the foreign visitors, with existing restau- ‘authentic Finnish cuisine’. There was one rants and cafés undergoing a rapid face-lift. problem; there was essentially no such Café Ursula in Kaivopuisto is a cherished thing as authentic Finnish cuisine. The example of the legacy of the Olympics, a young country was still essentially resident form of early ‘pop-up’ designed for tour- in small towns and villages distributed ists but left behind for the city’s residents. across its large land-mass. Finland was a Elsewhere, what is now Olympix bar was dispersed series of particular local cultures, originally a toilet servicing the Olympic each with particular local specialities.

24 From Prohibition to the Olympics World Festival of Youth and Students for Peace and Frienship in Helsinki on 1962. Events can temporarily change the atmosphere of a city, altering pre-conceived ideas about the function of public space. How might a city use events strategically, in order to imprint a lasting impression on its culture?

Necessity being the mother of invention, acquiring several and demolishing any in a national cuisine was manufactured for the bad condition (Mäkinen 2003a). A new Games, at least in part, drawing influence architectural language—modernism—was from these various local dishes, and cen- afoot, consistent with the ideas behind tred on the traditional ingredients of bird modernity, and in this context stressing game, fish and berries. rational, ordered approaches to health, An Olympics now remembered elsewhere fitness and cleanliness. The city appointed as a signifier of the Cold War—with the So- an architect Gunnar Taucher (1886-1941) viet Union taking part for the first time— to design a modern kiosk for these modern can be seen as the catalyst for the idea of places in modern times. Finnish food itself, for the introduction of Taucher’s original sketches, from 1928, Alko’s most popular drink, and for directly were actually more transitional than revo- changing the relationship between street lutionary, continuing a line in ornamenta- and food through a new breed of cafés tion familiar to the National Romantic or designed with some notion of ‘European- Jugenstil decorations that had flowered in style’ outdoor dining and promenading in Helsinki over the preceding decades. Yet in mind. the transition from drawing board to con- Although cultural change often occurs at struction, Taucher’s kiosks were stripped a generational pace, and after the Olympics of excessive decoration in keeping with many restaurants still reserved their right the rational, spare clarity behind much to practice patronising policies on their European modernism. The kiosks emerged clientele, 1952 effectively marked the end of as round, pillar box-like figures in concrete, Helsinki’s most repressive, restricted era of with ornamentation replaced by advertis- food culture. ing elements. Modern architecture had thrived in By 1937, the kiosk design had evolved Helsinki well before the 1952 Olympics, again, with Taucher introducing a wooden and not least in the structure of the humble kiosk with pronounced canopy. This base- kiosks. ball cap-like form would define the kiosk At the end of the 1920s, the city started building for decades. Internally, the new to engage with the kiosk more directly, kiosk was designed with modern services in

From Prohibition to the Olympics 25 mind, with facilities for electricity, running Helsinki’s relationship with modernity, and water, drainage, a boiler to heat the water, so too its relationship with food culture. alongside space for other essential equip- As is often the case with iconic struc- ment. This was kiosk as system—a machine tures, however, many of these kiosks were for cooking in, perhaps—rather than sim- meant as temporary structures (cf. Eiffel ply kiosk as container. Tower, London Eye etc.) The city expected By the Olympics, the design had been to have to provide a platform for a local ter- modified again to include a straight front race culture merely for the foreign visitors wall, and such kiosks appeared in the city visiting in and around the Olympics; once centre as well as at key suburban intersec- they had departed, so could many of the tions. kiosks and street cafés. And by the 1960s, the archetype of the Indeed, after the Olympics, irrespective contemporary grilli emerges, in a minimal- of any new local demand that had emerged, ist cube that served equally well for selling many of these establishments were shut newspapers or hot dogs. Makinen (2003b) down. Café Ursula was one such survivor, suggests that this ‘universalised’ style, alongside the Gin Long Drink, but for the stripped of decoration, reduced or even next two decades Helsinki only had a few removed the unique characteristics of the permanent outdoor summer cafés. Helsinki kiosk. In terms of a broader interest in food, Now the city is left with traces of all these the green shoots that had sprung up in the archetypes, each defining a stage of devel- local consumer culture during the early opment in its culture as much as architec- 1950s had not yet taken root in officialdom. ture of the kiosks themselves. It is pos- There was little active encouragement to sible to take a short walk through central build upon an international influence that Helsinki and frequent either the wooden, had briefly altered the city, and in many highly ornate National Romantic kiosks or cases there was active discouragement. In the metal grilli, to move between Taucher’s retrospect, the global glow faded as quickly pillar box and baseball cap designs. Like the as it had appeared. rings in a tree stump, each marks a point in history; each has a story to tell in respect of

26 From Prohibition to the Olympics The 1952 Olympics changed Helsinki’s attitude to open- air eating and drinking, as the city braced itself for a wave of “European” attitudes. While the facilities were often rudimentary, the cultural change was significant; yet few physical traces remain. What other crumbs are left over from the ‘52 Olympics, that we might usefully drawn from?

From Prohibition to the Olympics 27 Social mores & beefburgers

Yet the door had been opened, just a from small hamburger grills, was an instant little. success when it hit the streets in the early As Finland started to undergo further 1960s. rapid urbanisation during the 1960s and Structured, franchise-based competition ‘70s, the nation was, relatively speaking came in the form of the British hamburger anyway, turned upside down. A migration chain Wimpy, setting up three restaurants from the regions to the growth centres of in Finland in 1973. Other popular chains Southern Finland also meant a migration of from this time include Speedy and Carrols, local food cultures and traditions, and the entering the market in 1975. McDonald’s menus of the 1960s reflected this. only arrived in Finland in 1985. For example, students arriving in Hel- This late urbanisation also meant a shift sinki from the city of Pori in South-Western from an agricultural society organised Finland brought with them the now famous along the patterns of the land to a service burger porilainen, with the ingredient sector organised into five-day working Metsätäjä-sausage (nowadays known as weeks. Weekends, leisure time, dispos- Lauantaimakkara, or ‘Saturday sausage’). able income and office-based work in city It’s now a staple of Helsinki street food. centres blossomed as a class-based society Finland’s urbanisation occurred at a time began to fade in favour of a more socially- coincident with deeper changes in social mobile structure, ultimately heading for the mores and patterns of living sweeping so-called ‘spirit-level’ society and economy. across western cultures. From within late- These factors all combine in a new kind 1950s America and western Europe, the of urban life, predicated on leisure for all, teenager had emerged as a distinct cultural as well as work, and a conspicuous form of phenomenon, as a new idea. leisure at that. Pizzerias emerge in Helsinki For the first generation of Finnish teens, alongside the hamburger franchises, in the America was fascinating, hugely appealing, mid-70s, and become popular quite rapidly. even exotic, particularly given Finland’s These new food-types, the hamburger and complex relationship with the Soviet Union the pizza, both represent a more casual at the height of the Cold War. form of eating, in stark contrast to the As a result, American street food, served formal ‘sit-down’ means of home or restau-

28 Social mores & beefburgers Fine-dining Helsinki-style, late- 1950s. (Restaurant Lido opening, 21 February 1958.) Photograph features legendary Finnish designers Maija-Liisa Komulainen and Nanny Still, with gentlemen friends. These highly successful women could not have entered the restaurant on their own. How is today’s social fabric set through everyday rituals around food and social spaces?

rants. This was food that could be eaten in to be the role of the restaurant staff to mod- the street, on the move, without dressing erate the intake of their customers. Control up to go out for a meal. It was designed to extended beyond limiting consumption be shared amongst friends and enjoyed at to include deciding who could enter in the any time of the day. first place, with whom and in what attire. Despite these interventions, in both This particularly affected women. Even social structure and eating habits, socio- though the bar stool had been reclaimed economic status still mattered, and food from its purgatory, the authorities were still culture in Helsinki effectively resided in creating an atmosphere in which women two parallel universes: a high-end fine-din- in public were associated with licentious ing scene that was mutually exclusive with behaviour. Indeed, up to the mid-1960s, the everyman’s chain restaurants, pizzeria women couldn’t even enter a restaurant and grill. without an accompanying man, nor in a In either strata, however, the perception larger group of women. When they did get of what food was actually for had changed. in, their choice of attire was also regulated Tellingly, even Alko’s annual report of 1963 such that some restaurants insisted on ‘admits’ that restaurants were places of skirts and dresses, rather than trousers. leisure in which customers were allowed to As the decade ran its course, however, enjoy themselves. and inflected by the social developments And by the mid-1960s, restaurants began of the sixties, such attitudes began to fade to open the door to all-comers, perhaps away. By the end of the decade Finnish stimulated in part by greater competition. women could make their own decisions The sector had started to expand after about what and where to eat, and with regulations had been loosened in 1962, as whom, if anyone at all. part of a strategy to increase the number of By the 1970s, then, women were allowed common pubs and restaurants. into restaurants on their own, entirely new But despite Alko’s new dawn, and while types of food had emerged in line with new elsewhere in Europe waiters served their social patterns, and Alko had decided that clientele with as much food and drink as food could be fun. they desired, in Finland it was still thought The restaurant scene in general had

Social mores & beefburgers 29 Young woman in Helsinki city centre, 1959. Note the canopies outside Stockmann in the background. Does street food, which tends to be in open public places, sidestep the exclusionary social mores of the time and suggest more open versions of contemporary culture?

expanded significantly, principally through that operating hours were out of sync with the burgeoning café chains, and alcohol contemporary living and working patterns. consumption was also on the rise. Although In retrospect, these are the first tentative burger and pizza joints had brought food steps towards the ‘night-time economy’ out onto the street, albeit not necessarily or ‘24 hour city’, as it was referred to in with any kind of sophisticated experience 1990s policy circles. Yet they were also in mind, the amount of terraces in the city simple, rather mundane complaints about stayed very low. They were more common non-existant opening hours at weekends as independent summer cafés than restau- (Ruoppila 2000.) rants temporarily annexing outdoor space. In 1977, only 35 operating outdoor terrac- At the scale of the 20th century, Helsin- es had alcohol permits, and even these were ki’s relationship with street food could be not actually located on the streets. Regula- drawn as a gentle arc, where the last decade tion had remained tight in comparison to begins to achieve similar conditions to the a greater public acceptance and interest first. A liberalisation of regulations for res- in outdoor terrace and café culture. While taurants and alcohol consumption through- many North European nations had little in out the 1980s and 1990s ripples through the way of terrace culture—in mainstream to the street, alongside a new restaurant public opinion, it was essentially seen as boom across the city. more of a Mediterranean phenomenon— If the start of the century had been char- few had such tight regulation inhibiting its acterised by a freer, more open attitude to potential development. food, drawn from the cosmopolitan belle Yet opinion was beginning to turn, with epoque-era Helsinki, then this was begin- the scarce supply of outdoor cafés becom- ning to be echoed at the century’s end. ing a topic of mounting concern in the In between 1900 and 2000, tight regula- media. As elsewhere in Northern Europe, tions, not least in actual prohibition, and an outdoor café culture came to be seen a conservative cultures in both populace and sign of urban development, and the news- policy—sometimes forged in the crucible papers steadily filled with stories complain- of Independence, sometimes affected ing about the paucity of cafés in the city, or by war—created moments of a stunted,

30 Social mores & beefburgers Shifts in popular

culture are uted to the transformation. Similarly, radical upheavals in the Finn- now changing ish media landscape opened eyes too. The Finnish ‘monoculture’ of the early- to mid- expectations in 20th century was suddenly coloured by new voices, such as local radio stations Radio food as well City and Radio One, as well as new urban free-sheet newspapers, like City Magazine, founded in 1986. As with similar Northern European cities at that time, this new media directly altered the stories that the city told inhibited food culture in the city. But from about itself. They changed the idea of what the mid-century onwards, a steady curve the city was, what it could be, and that in- upwards in attitude, quality, volume and cluded what food and drink was about (See variety of eating establishments means Hel- the well-documented impact of City Life sinki now rides transformations in popular magazine on Manchester, founded in 1983, food culture concurrently with many other for a similar story.) Northern European cities. (Sillanpää 2002.) Moving into the 1990s, influence from No doubt this is partly due to other shifts Western Europe in particular pervaded in popular culture, such as the cheap flights Helsinki to an extent unseen since the belle and package holidays to European destina- epoque. tions—especially to the Mediterranean, New thinking in urban planning such as and their outdoor food cultures—that pedestrianisation, plazas and malls—actu- many Finns enjoy. The amount of Finnish ally old thinking, simply rediscovered— travellers to foreign destinations tripled was generally welcomed into the city, albeit between 1980 and 1990, and although it calibrated by the local cultural and climatic would take a decade for even some of those conditions. In concert with this, both popu- experiences to begin to be replicated back lace and policy seemed game to try out new home, the mass experience of alternative restaurant ideas, with authorities in more approaches to food and drink have contrib- tolerant mood, at least comparatively.

Social mores & beefburgers 31 A newsstand kiosk at Helsinki bus station, 1983. Helsinki’s kiosks tend to o!er food/drink OR news, yet a 1995 design competition for Helsinki kiosks suggested a more diverse set of hybrid functions. How might multiple functions be combined to position the kiosk as a more productive and versatile fixture in our neighbourhoods?

Sociologist Sampo Ruoppila has rather titudes, again lagging behind somewhat. poignantly characterised the Finnish adop- The distribution of liquor licenses in par- tion of other European social transforma- ticular had curtailed the establishment of tions as occurring in a particularly Finnish new terraces. In 1983, the city had only 30 way: with great delay, but instantaneously. terraces; by the 1990s, relaxed regulation The sum effect of these changes—in media enabled public demand to be met, at least and cultural production, ‘lifestyle’ and to some extent, such that Helsinki soon working patterns, local public space and boasted over 500 terraces. globalisation—would become entirely As is often the case with regulation, it evident in food culture. was not the actual letter of the law that had As ever, albeit with that delay, food is a changed, but the interpretation of the regu- weathervane for broader cultural condi- lation. Thus, these are questions of attitude tions. The division between fine dining and culture rather than regulatory change and everyman’s cafés finally erodes at this as such, and the attitudes and culture of point, at least in most cases. New restau- particular city officials were beginning to rants explored ethnically-inspired food and be directly affected by the broader conver- international cuisine, whilst relaxing their sations about urban life and urban culture attitudes to clientele with ‘service culture’ sweeping across Northern European cities, in mind. Not only could customers enter not to mention the economic opportunities a restaurant wearing jeans or shorts, but that this new form of activity promised. waiter themselves were allowed to dress One consistent feature of the debates more casually. in all these other cities centred on the co- Much of the ‘old guard’ in the Helsinki location of outdoor café culture and resi- food scene were actually easy pickings dential environments. While the benefits of for these new entrants. The new set had co-location in terms of ‘vibrant, mixed-use not only been born in an atmosphere of centres’ could not be denied, the noise increasingly fierce competition but citizens associated with outdoor dining was often began to realise what the dining establish- characterised as incompatible with homes. ment had represented for so long. This debate spilled over into the legisla- Regulatory attitude followed public at- tion in 1999, when residents living next to

32 Social mores & beefburgers some particularly loud bars complained to the extent that a hard stop of 22:00 was put on all terrace operating hours, all week, all year-long, everywhere in the city in resi- dential areas. As immigrants began to move to Helsinki in meaningful numbers for the first time that century, if not ever, the ethnic food scene started to flourish. A foothold of sorts had occurred in the 1980s, although all ethnic restaurants were actually run by Finns, as foreigners and immigrants were not permitted to run businesses until 1991. This change enabled 80 ethnic restaurants in 1992 to become 110 by 1999, with pizza becoming the nation’s favourite dish by 1994. The growth in fast food chains was even more pronounced during the ‘90s, with hamburger joints increasing from 40 to 250 in eight years. A Carrols, McDonald’s or Hesburger could be found in every mall and every reasonable-sized town in Finland. Equally, the traditional grill kiosks contin- ued to consolidate their grip on the late- night scene, their sausage-based snacks just about fending off the new competition from the kebab-pizzeria combo.

Social mores & beefburgers 33 A second Golden Age dawns?

When strolling around Helsinki, “a visi- Sweden, have continued to flesh out the tor doesn’t necessarily get an impression idea. Helsinki, along with the other core that this capital city is a vivid centre for Baltic cities, draws some positive afterglow urban food culture and street eats,” says from the idea of Nordic cuisine, and is be- Johanna Mäkelä, sociologist and researcher ginning to make significant contributions on Finnish food culture for the Finnish of its own. Consumer Research Centre. Finnish food itself is now an acceptable Helsinki is something of an ‘opaque’ city, topic around the policy table, within the where an inadvertent wrong turn can lead academy, amongst entrepreneurs, and yes, down an apparently empty street in the at the dinner table too. After years of being middle of town. Activity buzzes away in- downplayed or considered irrelevant in the side, but often behind curtains or otherwise Finnish political and societal discourse, out of view. Yet this is a misleading appear- food is now seen central to numerous de- ance; Helsinki today boasts a multitude of bates—in terms of urban culture, business fascinating urban activity around food, not and entrepreneurship, sustainability and to mention diverse menus. carbon, health, education, urban planning, From the mid-1990s onwards, the city logistics, agriculture, tourism, regional has transformed itself from a strongly economies, even soft power and nation legislated and somewhat grey city into a branding. tolerant, vibrant and innovative hub that In terms of the city, it is agreed that food is home to an increasingly interesting food is an inherent part of urban culture to a scene. degree that “when people now talk about In this, it draws from a wider transforma- design they tend to shoehorn food some- tion in the idea of a Nordic cuisine. When where into the same sentence,” as Mäkelä the Copenhagen ‘locavore’ restaurant Noma puts it. was voted the world’s best in 2010, Nordic Indeed, in 2012 Helsinki is World Design cuisine suddenly didn’t seem so much an Capital, and the programme has a firm oxymoron, or idle aspiration, but some- emphasis on Finnish food culture within thing whose time had come. Restaurants Finnish design culture. And within the City such as Faviken in Jämtland, northwestern of Helsinki, there is a new culinary culture

34 A second golden age dawns? strategy for 2009–2012. the belle epoque and modernist city; the Ville Relander, project manager for the outdoor cafés of the Olympics presaged the culinary culture strategy, explains that eventual restaurant terrace culture almost “the key topics of the strategy, unveiled in 50 years later; the creation of porilainen autumn 2010, aim to innovatively develop reflected the mixing of distinct regional Helsinki’s food supply and services to cre- cultures into Finnish culture; and the ar- ate new spaces and market places where rival of the hamburger heralded the arrival food and people can connect, to offer better of fast food chains. In each case, street food and more organic food for its citizens, and has suggested a new pattern of living in to increase urban farming and improve the Helsinki, via a new kind of food culture. current food ecosystem.” In fact, the humble, accessible origins of That the City sees the need for a food street food, as compared to the relatively culture strategy, the first such in its history, inaccessible, high-end, fine-dining culture indicates the centrality of food to contem- of the formal restaurant scene, also sug- porary urban issues. No longer a simple gests the outcome, at time of writing, of an question of sustenance, food as a system increasingly wide and deep interest in food draws in core concerns of sustainability across the population generally. and carbon, health and well-being, ethical consumerism, logistics and transport, At this point, the arc of Helsinki’s street retail, cultural consumption and produc- food is back on the upswing. tion, regional and national identity, as well The humble kiosk has reflected the as increasingly focusing on the social and changes in Helsinki’s built form, and so cultural aspects of food and eating. culture to some extent, for over a century. Whilst the media focus is often on the de- From the first 19th century variations on velopments in Helsinki’s restaurant scene, National Romantic style, via Taucher’s street food is perhaps the arena that most modernist canopied cylinders, to the metal clearly reflects the broader changes, and grill boxes of the 90s, the kiosks stand acts as a signpost as to future food cultures. around us in the street as a silent reminder Kiosks helped create a distinctive identity of how Helsinki’s culture has changed, and for Helsinki and articulated in public both is changing.

A second golden age dawns? 35 Food o!ers a Despite their everyday nature, it appears that the kiosks have not been taken for platform for civic granted by Helsinkians, if at least we judge by the number of affectionate names for engagement them: ‘kipsa’, ‘kitsa’, ‘kipari’, ‘snägäri’… and grass-roots Yet only a decade ago the number of ac- tive, well-patronised kiosks have dropped activism to a handful, alongside the grilli kiosks. Over the last couple of years, however, kiosks have been re-opening, and serving as a platform for both a wider variety of proprietors and street food concepts. These tions in urban culture, and a form of grass- newer operations are almost a counterpoint roots activism in much the same way that to the persistent, gritty grill kiosks. The music, politics or media can, or used to. small businesses within range from tiny With that in mind, financial value is not street cafés to ice-cream kiosks, from hot the only form of value returned by such dog stands to food trucks and experimen- enterprises—building cultural capital, tal multifunctional concepts that provide political capital, social capital or environ- spaces for small events and happenings, mental capital is just as important. In the playgrounds for kids, or retail for local context of a heavily industrialised food design, handicrafts, flowers. production sector, and a grocery sector still Many of these new street food concepts dominated by a handful of players, that is are being run by entrepreneurs who see an important distinction. It’s a new kind their activity as part of a field of creative or of business, at least through the lens of the cultural industries, rather than the tradi- existing commercial food sector, and the tional food sector. They are part of wide, di- regulatory environment that controls it. It verse and richly patterned networks across asks questions, at least implicitly, of both the city and beyond. For them, food offers aspects—policy and commerce—as to the a platform for civic engagement, explora- right way to think about and react to this

36 A second golden age dawns? Helsinki’s tori, or marketsquares, provide a grid of spaces to explore, each with their own character, alongside the other distributed grids of kiosks and cafés. How to play up the individual characters of each square and kiosk, as implicit introductions to the neighbourhoods and communities they sit within?

activity positively. sausages, and Snacky, the local grill chain, Examples of this current kiosk revival are looking to take over more of Helsinki’s would include the old kiosk at Kasarmintori grill kiosks when the current leases expire that, after being unoccupied for decades, in 2012. re-opened as Café Kasarmintori in 2009 The fact that the license renewal cycle and has helped reinvigorate the formerly for grill kiosks is 10 years surely stimu- desolate old square at the heart of the city. lates further questions. If food culture is Similarly, the Kukkapuiston Kioski in now explicitly recognised as being closely the Eira district became Rakkauden Kioski associated with innovation cycles in urban (Kiosk of Love) in 2010, offering organic culture, and a relatively fast-moving cul- produce as well as games for people to bor- tural field, is a decade the right frequency row and play in the adjacent park. with which to issue licences? See also the Karhupuiston Kioski (Bear Balancing the interests of large and small Park Café) in the Kallio district, a gay- players across the finite number of kiosks friendly summertime kiosk that has played will be a key challenge for the city, but a key role over the past decade in trans- it also indicates the field of opportunity forming the park from forbidding space to that this has become. As Helsinki and its neighbourhood favourite, working in close population look towards the future, the collaboration with the City and the local challenge will be to foster a distinctly local community. idea about the flavors and delights of food Leaving this emergent scene of small itself, but also see the culture, policy, and entrepreneurs aside for the moment, some business aspects as possibilities for distinc- existing players in the food market are tion, enhanced quality, and international hungrily eyeing Helsinki’s kiosks. Both attention. HK, the big meat producer famous for its

A second golden age dawns? 37 In the wake of ongoing developments in irrespective of local context recede into cuisine among competitive cultural capitals, the background, cities and regions are now Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi judged based on how unique their contribu- spoke from another era when he claimed in tions are, as well as how good they are. Due 2005 that, “there is absolutely no compari- to its intricate relation to the accumulated son between [Parma ham] and smoked rein- history of a culture, its dependence on local deer.” Indeed, there is no comparison—and climate, food easily serves as a cornerstone that’s the point. of a place’s identity. As industrial notions of standardization As the City of Helsinki’s Ville Relander

38 OPPORTUNITY SPACE

puts it, “Food can have a significant role in The focus now should be on intelligently bettering the well-being of all citizens in Hel- using these and other experiments to co- sinki, as well as help to create a more positive create a supportive policy context that will image both locally and internationally.” The create a virtuous cycle of development mov- city has recently enjoyed a flourishing of ing forward. Both examples included mo- food-related activity including two examples ments of slight deviance from official policy which we will look at in more detail below, and procedures, but in taking these risks Ravintolapäivä and the Camionette Crepes have helped to shine a light on new areas of food truck. possibility for other entrepreneurs, commu-

39 As streets and paths cut across the In the cold months all of the ice in the winter, the city is alive kiosks are closed. Snowy February with a completely new map. How might be fair enough, but breezy could these transient activities be September? A missed opportunity. emphasised more? Why? nity organizers, and city officials alike. The opportunity is to explore these ad- hoc innovations in street food that simulta- A faster rate neously produce value on three fronts: — By increasing street activity and making of innovation them more habitable (safe, vibrant, engaging) at all times of day, particularly will be required throughout the evening — As a growth area for small and medium for Helsinki sized enterprises that are uniquely Finnish and specifically targeted towards the to capitalise advancement of the local service economy — And by lowering the carbon footprint of on its current our daily sustenance by taking advantage of Finland’s growing network of local and opportunities organic agriculture. Together these factors contribute to a net positive enhancement of well-being in Finland in a way that is sustainable from so- cial, financial, and ecological perspectives. Due to market trends, ventures are in fact more likely to grow in the future if explic- itly developed and marketed as sustainable. What used to be ‘good business’ is increas- ingly seen as just business.

40 Opportunity space Lentävä Lehmä (“Flying Cow”) The Baltic Herring Market dates cheese stall in Hakaniemi market is back to 1594 in Helsinki. It now a hidden gem in Helsinki. Why don’t o!ers many forms of local food more people know about it? beyond herring, but only for a week each year. Could it run more frequently?

For Helsinki to capitalize on these op- in the city, but operating 24/7. The latter portunities a faster rate of innovation will covers large parts of Helsinki, as well as be required within the areas outlined in other cities in Finland and abroad, but only this document. Permitting and permissions does so for the duration of its events which currently present a high barrier to entry for happen just a few times a year. One is lim- new food business operators: how can we ited in space, the other in time. What they make it easier for them to bootstrap new share is an emphasis on bringing diversity operations? How might the city govern- to the offering available, both in terms of ment encourage faster cycles of innova- cuisine and service concepts. By exploring tion by exploring the ‘levers’ it has as the the cases of Ravintolapäivä and Camionette landlord for 61% of Helsinki? What would we are positing that expansion on these incentivize entrepreneurs to be adventur- axes—location in time and space, as well ous in exploring more diverse and unique as diversity of offering—are important for business ideas? How might the city begin Helsinki’s continued development as a city to see citizen-led innovation as a way to with a thriving food culture. prototype new operating principles from a When considering the relationship policy perspective? between food and the spaces of the city, These are just a few of the questions that the opportunities are twofold: on a block the development of Helsinki’s culinary by block level within early-adopter zones culture in the past few years have already the task is to retain enough density and brought up. diversity of positive food experiences so Camionette and Ravintolapäivä have that new attitudes towards food are vis- been chosen because they are in some sense ible as a cultural shift rather than isolated opposites of each other. The former is a incidents. Enabling density and diversity single food business located at one point enhances the feeling of momentum and

Opportunity space 41 The birth of Camionette Cafe & Crepes was not easy for everyone involved. The city felt misrepresented when Tikka, the founder, went to the press feeling rejected. Meanwhile, to Tikka the city was opaque and inscrutable. A joined up permitting process would address much of these concerns.

progress, makes it easier to perceive. Fol- throughout the night, with a calmer, slower lowing closely behind, policy approaches atmosphere emanating from the truck to its that enable early pockets of density and immediate surroundings compared to near diversity to spread to different parts of the by grillis. With these positive affects com- city is an important aspect of maintaining ing as ancillary benefits to both nighttime equity for all. and daytime economies, the question we In establishing Camionette in 2011, the might ask now is how to make it easier for young entrepreneur Tio Tikka originally similar business to sprout up? intended to create a roving truck that sold Is it possible that a small food operation crepes from different points throughout the standing in one corner of a public square city. While this proved difficult to achieve, changes the experience of that space? The he was successful in securing a fixed loca- experiences at Karhupuisto in Kallio affirms tion for his truck on the edge of Lasipal- Tikka’s observations. The kiosk there has atsi, a central fixture in the street life of been pointed to by neighborhood residents Helsinki. as having played a key role in revitalising Rather than opening a truck for a few the area over the last two years. Researcher hours here and there, Tikka decided to keep Johanna Mäkelä happens to live next to the truck open 24/7 from day one, a deci- the square at Kasarmintori and thinks sion that was made easier by an outpouring that “kiosks might show the way for other of support on Facebook in advance of the businesses and initiatives to further engage opening. dwellers and reinvigorate the area.” Tikka was interested in creating “a choice Mäkelä sees that “the squares seem to for people to eat well also late in the night”, be very influential and meaningful places and he also acknowledges that the truck in Helsinki,” and so the cultural capital helps keep the vicinity of Lasipalatsi safe generated by altering the perception of a

42 Opportunity space Could Helsinki be known as the Nordic capital with the highest per capita density of ethnic restaurants?

square has a form of multiplier effect. As more local market like Hakaniemi just over the traditional home for market places in a kilometer north. many western cultures, public squares big Each is linked to a particular kind of or small are spaces of socialisation and con- spatial experience of food—in this case, gregation. A place where people came to- strolling through a market and filling a bag gether to buy and sell, but also to converse, of fresh produce from independent retail- to mix, to hang out. In a basic way, these ers specialising in particular foodstuffs, active are where the city happens. stopping to have a coffee and a snack in Kauppatori (Market Square) is the most the street as you go, probably arriving and obvious example of this, and a space experi- departing by public transport, or on bike or enced by most if not all of the three million by foot. This is obviously quite different to or so tourists to Helsinki each year who visiting a generic supermarket by car, with are looking for a bit of authentic Helsinki. very little interaction with the street, and Although this statement does not come so with people, whilst reinforcing a car- without a certain degree of irony, Kauppa- based mode of urban organisation. In the tori does possess the traditional coffee and market square, the push button efficiency munkki (doughnut) stalls, as well as stalls of the super market is replaced by a more for berries, fish and other Finnish produce. social interaction that builds over time in Truly authentic or not, the image of the the form of shared experience. city is being constructed by these simple So the format of food retail and con- stalls, and the millions of visitors each sumption can have direct effects on urban year who visit them. Although Kauppatori experience and space, at both the micro is a relatively controlled construction of level—the kiosk in the square—and the ‘Helsinki’ oriented primarily towards tour- macro level—the patterns of housing ists, its format has much in common with a location and transit. In that sense, per-

Opportunity space 43 Rightly proud of its achievements in social mobility, Helsinki’s ‘solar kitchen’ at and with the fastest ageing population in Europe, how Kalasatama, led by Antto can Finland’s street food serve elders as well as it does Melasniemi, drew worldwide hipsters? attention. How is food linked to tourism and city branding? haps a richer set of street food concepts in 2012. Helsinki would be able to expand the way Food helps us change the stories that the the city’s space is used, opening up a wider city tells about itself. range of possibilities for urban culture, for entrepreneurs, for policymakers, and for Food builds relationships citizens. Food is a primary social object, so inher- This is what the City of Helsinki’s culi- ent to everyday habits and daily patterns nary culture strategy is aiming to facilitate, that it provides a form of connective tissue says Ville Relander. As an example of this for most of our relationships. We share kind of outcome Relander suggests Antto sushi with work colleagues, have intimate Melasniemi’s HEL Yes! pop-up restaurant in dinners with loved ones, cook for our kids, the Kalasatama area in early 2011. Populat- grab a coffee from the same café every ing an old vegetable warehouse, HEL Yes! day, explore new gastronomy as a form of served imaginative Finnish cuisine for a few adventure, shop at supermarkets or special- weeks, luring the ‘hipster’ community to ist retailers, grow food in backyards or one of Helsinki’s primary redevelopment community gardens, and often experience projects. The HEL Yes! concept had first distant cultures first through their food. appeared at the London Design Festival During Ravintolapäivä, many partici- in 2010, and in bringing the team back pants made the same observation, accord- to Helsinki, the City was in effect deploy- ing to one of the organisers, Olli Siren. ing new food experiences to create social “The event genuinely changes peoples’ interactions that imagine a new use for the social relationships—if only for a short Kalasatama district. Continuing to change period of time—as people don’t just do the perception of Helsinki, HEL Yes! took business and transactions with each other, the concept to Stockholm in February of but often engage in richer social encounter

44 Opportunity space For its brief existence, the Museum of the Near Future, a pop up in Kaivopuisto, could easily claim that it has Finland’s tastiest museum cafe (pictured here). Could Finland be known as the country that has the best snacks at its institutions? What about petrol stations?

because of the authenticity and personality work, through their emphasis on social of the situation where food is sold and con- interaction. Whilst the food is the easy sumed. And this is one of the main reasons thing to point to, the relationship-building why Ravintolapäivä is at the very core of and broader socio-cultural experience rethinking how food can create new urban is the stronger driver behind the event. culture.” Raviontolapäivä’s focus on a narrow span Ravintolapäivä and its contemporane- of just 24 hours contributes to its success ous developments—food trucks, organic by providing a density and diversity to the delis, locavore restaurants—are helping experience. As we explore below, the next rewire how Helsinki’s neighbourhoods question is to consider how events like this might become absorbed by the city more deeply. Then, the positive relationship- building effects may be replicated or grown to a new scale, leaving a lasting effect on the city’s cultures beyond a single day. Food helps us “The idea of enhanced social relation- ships is at the heart of the Helsinki food change the stories culinary strategy,” says Ville Relander. “The Helsinki market squares and food that the city tells markets should be places to meet people and socialise, not only to buy groceries and about itself consume food”, however organic, local, or tasty they may be. Social interaction is intrinsic to food and drink, a fact which many western cultures

Opportunity space 45 This is no Iso Roobertinkatu. Rather, lively pedestrian streets and terraces require joined-up consideration of everything from the mix of commercial o!erings to street furniture, waste collection, and rights of way. Can this view of conviviality become the new normal?

lost touch with in the post-war period of The kiosk no longer need be quite so rigid efficiency and rapid urbanization. Although in its operation. Currently Esplanadi’s it would be cheaper to buy beer by the can kiosks open during the day for coffee, or wine by the box and drink it at home, we while the grillis are closed metal boxes. choose to go to the local bar to drink with Late at night, the Esplanadi kiosks are others. Although it would be quicker to buy closed with the grilli the only option. This ready-meals and heat them up at home, rigid pattern is seasonal too, with many of restaurants of all shapes and sizes are being the older kiosks only open in the summer inserted into any spare gap in the fabric of months and only some grillis toughing it the city as eating out takes hold during the out through the winter. While Helsinki’s working week in Helsinki, not just at the winter presents a challenge to most out- weekend. door activities, it may be that there is more Food is both a token to enable social appetite than there used to be, or kiosk interaction as well as an outcome of the operators think, given the greater inter- changing patterns of the city. As working est in street food in the city today and the lives become more flexible, so too food persistence of late night culture, including habits shape themselves around the new clubs and bars, even in the winter months. patterns of the everyday. Johanna Mäkela If Helsinki’s markets can be re-calibrated says “Food is typically very situational and as destinations for a broader range of social we can see how the structure, rhythm and interaction—over and above grocery shop- contents of eating are changing simultane- ping—what possibilities for more flexible ously.” operation will also be opened up? As the most public example of eating, As Mäkela notes, “It might be a very street food has the potential to lead these interesting opportunity for street food changes in a way that is relatively low risk. providers to rethink how they could better

46 Opportunity space How can we begin to value nutrition, quality, experience, and uniqueness of o!ering right alongside food safety and maximisation of economic returns?

understand and benefit from the different ism and highly skilled migrants alike. rhythms—the constantly changing breath- In the broad strokes the story of food ing of the city.” culture in Helsinki since at least the 1952 Olympics has been one of a gradual opening up of possibility. It has not been a smooth Experiment, refine, repeat trajectory, and for those interested in Traditionally, Finnish authorities have developing food culture caught in the midst been exceptionally prescriptive in terms of any one of these decades, the pace of of the regulations that affect food culture, change would have felt glacial. The odd and particularly street food. The city’s policy alteration, or re-interpretation, may overarching urban planning guidelines are have sometimes felt like ‘one step forward, highly detailed, thorough and relatively two steps back’. prescriptive. Its various licensing policies Still, in the second decade of the 21st have been strict and inhibiting, historically century, the city is markedly different to speaking. While Finland prides itself on the Helsinki of the grey, post-war years. high levels of safety in food handling and The amount of outdoor terraces available preparation, new questions are emerging for eating and drinking, with some pushing about the industrial-scale assumptions back on the 22:00 hard-stop regulation, is that these restrictions are based on and the an order of magnitude greater. The Ravin- energy-intensive infrastructure that they tolapäivä ‘pop-up restaurant day’ is slowly require. Looking forward, cities that are spreading spreading across Finnish cities able to maintain high levels of personal and and even other nations, carrying its Hel- food safety without strangling innovation sinki provenance with it. The quality of the will reap the rewards in an environment of restaurant scene is, at its best moments, tough international competition for tour- comparable with other similar-sized cities

Opportunity space 47 At its best, Finnish food is highly How many kioskis serve organic defined by the seasons, particularly co!ee or local beer? Not many. its berries. How can seasonality Why not? become a feature of everyday food?

in Europe. Tikka’s applications. Perhaps more fundamentally, a grow- Overnight success takes a long time, it ing number of people are questioning the seems, recalling Ruoppila’s phrase: “with social norms that the authorities have built great delay, but instantaneously.” regulations around. This includes exploring A basic barrier to this kind of innovation further what food can mean, what street is the lack of available space for budding food can mean, where it can be explored, street food entrepreneurs in the first place. and at what time of the day or night. The City owns the majority of the real Tio Tikka, the entrepreneur behind Ca- estate in Helsinki and, in the opinion of mionette Café & Crepes food truck, sensed those interviewed here, has been slow to this general mood change when he opened make it available for use by mobile food his business in May 2011 after a long and entrepreneurs. The perception amongst frustrating process attempting to obtain the small entrepreneurs is that the City permission and licenses from the City of finds it easy to lease space for a ‘corporate’ Helsinki. commercial event—for example, a Formula Despite his apparently immediate popu- 1 car show—in the centre of the city but larity, the process itself is still instructive the same spaces are not made available for in terms of ‘barriers and opportunities’. small business use. Tikka only broke through the final layers Ravintolapäivä, Camionette and others of regulatory resistance when his story have already begun to change expectations, gathered momentum on Facebook, and was and Tikka hints that “the City is already in then picked up by the local media. Seeing the process of rethinking the role of street the thousands of people interested in, and food in the city and adjusting the legislation mobilising behind, the idea of the Camio- accordingly, possibly already later in 2011.” nette, the authorities eased off and allowed Indeed, ten additional spots will be opened

48 Opportunity space In late 2012 Tukkutori, Helsinki’s Left are free, traditional plastic bags and right are wholesale market, will open to biodegradable bags that cost 12 cents each. The state everyday citizens. Can it also serve of these two spools of bags in a local K-Market are as a launching platform for new just one subtle indicator of the hunger for a more food businesses? sustainable retail o!ering in Helsinki. for similar trucks or carts in 2012. ous ‘in-between’ places, defined by ad-hoc Seen from a distance, the experiences of or inefficient use and undefined activity. As the instigators of Camionette and Ravinto- the footprint of street food ventures is rela- lapäiva and the city’s response offer a com- tively small, street corners, parking lots, pelling justification for more explicit co- and vacant spaces might all be added to the design processes to guide the development usual array of public spaces, such as parks, of local policy. By more actively involving squares and malls. In Helsinki’s winter, sea food business operators and other groups ice expands the surface area available to the in this process the city stands to create city—the ice has been used for street food a better bridge to the outcomes of their for centuries, as it happens. policy work, with the benefit of increasing Yet there is no clear legislation for these good will and decreasing compliance costs. activities. Legislation in this area arguably In combination this yields a more enthu- faces challenges familiar to other legisla- siastic community around food and food tive arena over the last two decades, in that culture, and offers Helsinki a unique claim it is caught within the disruptive crossfire in a European marketplace that is crowded of mobile, distributed communication and with cities delivering good food. networked, emergent organisation models that are simultaneously local and global. Ravintolapäivä provides an interesting Filling in the gaps case study of how a transient city-wide yet From the point of view of both emergent distributed event, enabled via lightest pos- entrepreneurship and optimising and ac- sible layer of organisation can occupy these tivating urban space, opening up available legal grey areas. This open initiative, which space for rent by small street food busi- encourages people to establish their own nesses is a win:win. Cities generate numer- ‘restaurants’ for a single day and provides

Opportunity space 49 Many of the city’s restaurants are open only in the evening, leaving the daytime streetscape a bit devoid of activity.

a basic means by which people can find out erybody has a great day - was well-judged in where they are, has become a huge success. the eyes of all involved, and could not have It has not simply spread across Helsinki, been in starker contrast to its approaches but to other Finnish cities, and now other throughout the preceding century. parts of Europe. At the time of writing, the As Olli Siren remarks, it may also be event has given birth to over 200 ‘restau- because “in reality there is quite little the rants’. officials can do to curb a well-meaning, Instinctively using contemporary tools decentralised and social media savvy like Facebook, with its participants weaving movement, without ending up looking like together the experience using other social dull bureaucrats totally alienated from the media (Twitter, Google Maps, Flickr etc), culture.” the formal organisation is barely there. Finnish bureaucracy has traditionally This presents something of a challenge for focused tightly on food hygiene regulations, City officials used to regulating in far more which are purported to be world-class as a structured organisational contexts. result. However, the perception that there To their credit, however, in the eyes of is highly prescriptive regulation is not quite those responsible for Ravintolapäivä the true; as with most areas of legislation, it’s City has responded very well, by remaining the interpretation and enforcement that sanguine about the event whilst taking a counts. Tio Tikka relates an example of ‘hands off’ approach to management, and where the regulatory environment is rela- essentially wishing it well. tively relaxed, as long as people follow the It might help that the current Mayor is a rules in principle: “One should have a water fan, but the general ‘light touch’ approach heater in the food preparing facility but of the City - simply leaving a message on there are no requirements to actually ever the Ravintolapäivä website hoping that ev- use it,” he notes.

50 Opportunity space Could Kiosks and other small retail Finns are also rightly proud of their cultural proximity outlets create opportunities for to nature, and natural experiences. How could this be innovation in the built environment tied to everyday food? as well?

These include:

— A notification for setting up a new business from the National Board of Permits and Registration, The primary — Permits for using the space as a restaurant from the Building and legislative Construction Control Agency, — Hygiene license and a hygiene plan for barrier is simply the Food Safety Authority, — Inspection and a possible emergency the opacity of plan for the City Rescue Department, — Possible terrace permit from the Public legislation itself. Works Department, — Notification for the Police, — Alcohol and liquor license from the National Supervisory Authority for Welfare and Health, In the eyes of many attempting to — And permits for playing music outdoors navigate it, the primary legislative barrier from the Environmental Administration. is simply the sheer mass, complexity and opacity of legislation itself. These relatively rigid official practices A new entrepreneur still needs up to ten are naturally intended to serve the public different permits and licenses, liaising with interest, but they can make it challenging to at least four different departments. develop equally well-meaning projects. This

Opportunity space 51 TARJOUSLOMAKE A Nro 2042

Liite 3 TARJOUSPYYNTÖ Nro 2042 8 P Hallinto-osasto / Kansliapalvelut Päivämäärä Diaarinumero HEL 2012-002209 Khadraoui 10.2.2012 1 (2) 3 P 1(4) Hallinto-osasto / Kansliapalvelut Päivämäärä Liite 1 Khadraoui 10.2.2012 1 (7) KONE- JA KULJETUSPALVELUIDEN HANKINNAN YLEISET EHDOT 2008, KE 08 Palveluosasto SOPIMUSLUONNOS 1. SOVELLUTUSALUE Näitä kone- ja kuljetuspalveluiden hankinnan yleisiä ehtoja sovelletaan itsenäisen yrittäjän tai yrityksen luovuttaessa työkoneen tai ajoneuvon kuljettajineen korvausta vastaan tilaajan käyttöön. Koneen ALUEEN VUOKRASOPIMUS KIOSKIN PITÄMISTÄ VARTEN tai ajoneuvon työskentely tapahtuu tilaajan työnjohdossa. Tarjouspyyntö ”Vuokralle tarjotaan elintarvikkeiden myyntipaikkoja” Näissä vuokrausehdoissa käytetään jäljempänä vuokralle ottajasta nimitystä tilaaja, ja vuokralle antajasta nimitystä yrittäjä. 1. Vuokranantaja on Helsingin kaupunki, rakennusvirasto. Näitä yleisiä ehtoja ei sovelleta työsuhteissa, urakoinnissa, kalustonvuokraustoiminnassa eli 2 P+Y Tarjoaja:______koneita ja ajoneuvoja vuokrattaessa ilman kuljettajaa eikä myöskään ajoneuvonostureiden Yhteyshenkilö Hannele Virta, puhelin 310 39544, [email protected]. 7 Y vuokrauksessa. 2. TILAAJAN VELVOLLISUUDET 4 Y Työnjohto 2. Vuokralainen on x, (Y-tunnus xx), osoite. Tilaaja vastaa työnjohdosta ja työmaan työturvallisuudesta ja antaa ohjeet koneen työskentelystä työmaalla ja kuljetustehtävän toteuttamisesta. Yhteyshenkilö x, puhelin xx, [email protected]. 1 P Tarjoajan soveltuvuutta koskevat vaatimukset Rakenteiden merkitseminen Vuokralle tarjotaan elintarvikkeiden myyntipaikkoja Tilaaja on velvollinen tarvittaessa työn edistymisen mukaan merkitsemään ja suojaamaan johdot, putket ja Rahoitukselliseen ja taloudelliseen tilanteeseen liittyvät vaatimukset vastaavat sekä säilytettävät puut sekä antamaan tarvittaessa erityisohjeet varovaisuuden noudattamisesta. 3. Vuokrakohde on liitteessä yksilöity kioskin pohjapinta-ala (noin 10 m2) osoitteessa Työaika Helsingin kaupungin rakennusvirasto vuokraa määräajaksi Helsingin tien ja kadun kulma. Kioskin tarkan sijainnin määrittää vuokranantaja. Tilaajan on ilmoitettava yrittäjälle työaika, jota työkohteessa koneen tai ajoneuvon kuljettajan on Tarjouksen liitteeksi seuraavat selvitykset: noudatettava keskustassa myyntipaikkoja tarjoajan kioskista tapahtuvaan elintarvik- 6 P sekä maksuperusteena oleva työaika. keiden myyntiin. Vuokralainen on oikeutettu ja velvoitettu pitämään liitteessä yksilöityä kioskia ja 5 P+Y Ilmoitukset työvuoroista ja työnkeskeytyksistä kioskissa kiinni olevaa roskakoria vuokra-alueella päivittäin kello XX-XX. Kioskin ja Veroviranomaisen todistus maksetuista veroista ja sosiaali- Tilaajan on ilmoitettava kulloinkin hyvissä ajoin yrittäjälle tai hänen edustajalleen tulevista työnkeskeytyksistä roskakorin pitäminen vuokra-alueella vuokra-ajan ulkopuolella on kielletty. Muun kuin turvamaksuista tai verovelkatodistus tai selvitys siitä, että ja ylitöistä sekä niiden arvioidusta pituudesta. Tilaajan on ilmoitettava yrittäjälle koneen tai ajoneuvon verovelkaa koskeva maksusuunnitelma on tehty. (liitteeksi 1) käyttämisestä 1. Vuokrattavat kohteet liitteessä määritetyn kioskin pitäminen alueella on kiellettyä. useammassa kuin yhdessä työvuorossa vähintään viikkoa ennen, ellei vuorotyöstä ole alun perin Työeläkekassan ja / tai vakuutusyhtiön todistus eläkevakuu- sovittu. Karttaliitteessä 2 on määritelty vuokrattavat kohteet. Pöytien ja tuolien pitäminen vuokra-alueen yhteydessä ei ole sallittua ilman vuokra- Aputyöt ja materiaalit nantajan kirjallista lupaa. tuksen ottamisesta ja eläkevakuutusmaksujen suorittamises- Koneen tai ajoneuvon työskentelyn edellyttäessä aputyötä tai erityisiä apuvälineitä hankkii ja kustantaa ne ta tai selvitys siitä, että erääntyneitä eläkevakuutusmaksuja 2. Sopimuksen syntyminen tilaaja. Olosuhteiden edellyttäessä lavojen, mattojen tms. käyttöä osapuolet voivat kuitenkin sopia, että koskeva maksusopimus on tehty.(liitteeksi 2) yrittäjä 4. Vuokralainen harjoittaa vuokra-alueella elintarvikkeiden myyntiä kioskista. Muu toi- hankkii ne ja tilaaja maksaa niistä kohtuullisen lisäkorvauksen. Jollei kuormalavojen käytöstä muuta ole Tarjousten perusteella on tarkoitus solmia määräaikainen vuokrasopi- minta vuokra-alueella on kielletty. sovittu, vastaa tilaaja niiden vaihdosta. Mikäli tarjoajalla ei ole velvollisuutta vakuutusten ottamiseen, mus ajalle 1.4.2012 – 31.12.2013 jokaiseen vuokrakohteeseen yhden Koneen tai ajoneuvon vahingoittuminen tästä on esitettävä erillinen selvitys. Selvitys voi olla tarjoajan Jos koneen tai ajoneuvon käyttö estyy tai kone vahingoittuu työmaalla tai ajoneuvo kuljetustehtävässä, valitun tarjoajan kanssa. 5. Vuokra-aika on 1.4.2012 – 31.12.2013. kuormauksessa tai purkamisessa tilaajan ohjeiden, suunnitelmien puutteellisuuden, tilaajan antaman väärän itsensä laatima. tiedon tai vastaavan syyn seurauksena, tilaaja on velvollinen maksamaan näin syntyneen keskeytyksen 6. Vuokra-aluetta saa käyttää aikaisintaan sen jälkeen, kun vuokralainen on saanut ajalta Yksi tarjoaja voi vuokrata korkeintaan kaksi eri vuokrakohdetta. Yhtenä toimenpideluvan kioskille, tai kirjallisen tiedon rakennusvalvontavirastosta, ettei toi- Tarjouksen liitteeksi seuraava selvitys: tuntivuokran kohdan "Keskeytykset" mukaisesti. Tilaaja on myös velvollinen maksamaan koneen tai tarjoajana pidetään samaan konserniin kuuluvia oikeushenkilöitä tai ti- 9 Y ajoneuvon menpidelupaa tarvita. lannetta, jossa luonnollinen tai oikeushenkilö voi käyttää tosiasiallista Vakuutusyhtiön todistus vastuuvakuutuksen sisällöstä, voi- avustamisesta ja työkuntoon saattamisesta aiheutuneet kustannukset. määräysvaltaa useamman tarjoajan toimissa. 3. YRITTÄJÄN VELVOLLISUUDET 7. Vuokran määrä on x euroa kuukaudessa ilman arvonlisäveroa. Vuokraan lisätään massaolosta ja vakuutusmaksujen suorittamisesta. (liitteeksi Määräysten noudattaminen 3) Yrittäjän ja hänen työntekijöidensä on noudatettava työssä tilaajan työnjohdon määräyksiä ja ohjeita sekä Vuokrasopimus laaditaan noudattaen liitteen SOPIMUSLUONNOS mu- voimassa olevan arvonlisäverokannan mukainen vero, jos vuokra on arvonlisävero- yleisiä työturvallisuusmääräyksiä. kaisia ehtoja. lain mukaan verollista. Vuokra maksetaan rakennusviraston laskua vastaan kuukau- Varovaisuus ja huolellisuus sittain. Yrittäjä on velvollinen suorittamaan työn huolellisesti ja noudattamaan erityistä varovaisuutta merkityillä Seuraavat selvitykset: kohdin. Ammattitaito 3. Vuokratarjouksen ilmoittaminen 8. Sopimuksessa määritettyjä oikeuksia ja velvollisuuksia ei saa siirtää kolmannelle il- Yrittäjän on huolehdittava, että konetta tai ajoneuvoa käytetään ammattitaitoisesti. man toisen sopijapuolen kirjallista suostumusta. Suostumus vaaditaan myös vuokra- Kaupparekisterinote (jäljennös) (liitteeksi 4) Koneen ja ajoneuvon kunto laisen yhtiörakenteen muuttamista tarkoittaviin toimenpiteisiin. Yrittäjä vastaa, että kone tai ajoneuvo siihen kuuluvine varusteineen ja laitteineen pidetään asianmukaisessa Vuokratarjous tulee ilmoittaa liitteenä olevalla tarjouslomakkeella euroa Selvitys rekisteröimättömyyden perusteista, jos tarjoaja ei työkunnossa ja että se täyttää voimassa olevat työturvallisuusmääräykset. Yrittäjällä on oikeus vaihtaa kone (alv 0 %) / kuukausi / vuokrauskohde. kuulu kauppa-, ennakkoperintä-, työnantaja- tai arvonlisäve- tai ajoneuvo työmaalle tai tehtävään vain tilaajan työnjohdon suostumuksella. Suostumuksen vaatimisella kaupunki kontrolloi sopimuksen mahdollisen uuden tosia- Poltto- ja voiteluaineiden käsittely Tarjoajan on ilmoitettava: siallisen sopimusosapuolen kykyä vastata sopimusvelvoitteista ja kelpoisuutta toimia Yrittäjä vastaa, että poltto- ja voiteluaineiden säilyttäminen ja käsittely tapahtuu asianmukaisin laittein ja kaupungin sopimuskumppanina. Kontrolliarvion jälkeen mahdollinen suostumus anne- tilaajan - tähän tarjouskilpailuun annetut samaan konserniin kuu- mahdollisesti antamia erityismääräyksiä noudattaen. luvien yhtiöiden tekemät tarjoukset, ja taan siitä kaupungin yksiköstä, joka hallinnoi sopimusta. Sopimusta tehtäessä sitä ha- Vastuu vahingoista llinnoi rakennusviraston alueidenkäyttötoimisto. Yrittäjä vastaa tilaajalle aiheutuneista vahingoista ja haitoista, jotka osoitetaan johtuvan yrittäjän huolimattomuudesta, ei kuitenkaan välillisiä vahinkoja ja haittoja. Jos kyseessä on tahallisuus tai törkeä tuottamus, 9. Vuokranantaja haluaa tukea pienyrittämistä ilman tarpeettomia alihankkijoita ja siksi vuokra-alueella tapahtuvan toiminnan järjestäminen alihankintana on kiellettyä.

Helsingin kaupungin rakennusvirasto | Postiosoite: PL 1500, 00099 HELSINGIN KAUPUNKI | Osoite: Kasarmikatu 21 Puhelin (09) 310 1661 | Faksi (09) 310 38655 | [email protected] | www.hkr.hel.fi

In spring of 2012, the City of Helsinki opened a tender for 9 food trucks. The application process, represented above, involved more than 60 pages spread across multiple documents. With a little work, could Helsinki grow a reputation as the world’s best city to get a food business o! the ground?

highlights the necessity of a pragmatic, CEO of Helsinki-based mobile gaming com- human-centered approach to legislation. pany Grey Area, explains that urban quality A small amount of effort into unifying and of life is an important aspect when hiring streamlining the permit and license proce- and retaining top software engineers. In dures will go a long way towards lowering terms of preventing domestic ‘brain drain’ the barriers to entry for new entrepreneurs and attracting foreign talent (‘brain gain’), and operators who are more experimental the challenge for Helsinki is to foster an in their business concepts. urban culture that is not only well-function- Moving beyond ‘one-offs’ such as Ravin- ing but thriving, responsive, and unique. tolapäivä and Camionette, in terms of One that will not only attract top talents in diversity, frequency, quality, and perma- the first place, but retain them as well. nence, will take a concerted effort on all Equally, as other cities and nations sides. explore more sustainable food cultures— Given a more open dialogue between localavore, organic, healthy, less inten- citizens, entrepreneurs and City officials, sively farming, better resource use, greater street food and food culture can continue to citizen engagement—Helsinki will need an be a fertile field in which Helsinki explores active food culture to continually develop the idea of what kind of city it is and what a its own thinking and practice to remain city can be. Seen in this light, food culture competitive. acts as a platform for a richer range of For a relatively young city, Helsinki has meaningful social and cultural interactions. seen a lot of history. Many of the central As the diversity and quality of street food themes of the last 150 years of western continues to rise in other European cities, culture have been played out here in fast Helsinki needs this development in order forward. to remain competitive. Ville Vesterinen, the Indeed, the story of Helsinki’s food cul-

52 Opportunity space TARJOUSPYYNTÖ Nro 2042 Diaarinumero HEL 2012-002209 1(4) Liite 1 Hallinto-osasto / Kansliapalvelut Päivämäärä Palveluosasto SOPIMUSLUONNOS Khadraoui 10.2.2012 1 (7) TARJOUSLOMAKE A Nro 2042 Helsingin kaupunki Hintalomake.xls Liite 4 ALUEEN VUOKRASOPIMUS KIOSKIN PITÄMISTÄ VARTEN Liite 3 Rakennusvirasto Hallinto-osasto / Kansliapalvelut Päivämäärä 1. Vuokranantaja on Helsingin kaupunki, rakennusvirasto. Khadraoui 10.2.2012 1 (2) 5 P+Y Vuokratarjous tarjouspyyntöön 2042 / 10.2.2012 elintarvikkeiden myyntipaikka Yhteyshenkilö Hannele Virta, puhelin 310 39544, [email protected].

2. Vuokralainen on x, (Y-tunnus xx), osoite.

Yhteyshenkilö x, puhelin xx, [email protected]. Tarjoaja: 2 3. Vuokrakohde on liitteessä yksilöity kioskin pohjapinta-ala (noin 10 m ) osoitteessa Vuokralle tarjotaan elintarvikkeiden myyntipaikkoja Tarjouspyyntö ”Vuokralle tarjotaan elintarvikkeiden myyntipaikkoja” tien ja kadun kulma. Kioskin tarkan sijainnin määrittää vuokranantaja.

tunnin siirtymäajat!) Vuokralainen on oikeutettu ja velvoitettu pitämään liitteessä yksilöityä kioskia ja kios- P= päiväpaikka ja Y= yöpaikka Helsingin kaupungin rakennusvirasto vuokraa määräajaksi Helsingin Tarjoaja:______- Päiväpaikka: klo 07-22 kissa kiinni olevaa roskakoria vuokra-alueella päivittäin kello XX-XX. Kioskin ja roska- keskustassa myyntipaikkoja tarjoajan kioskista tapahtuvaan elintarvi- - Yöpaikka: klo 19-06 korin pitäminen vuokra-alueella vuokra-ajan ulkopuolella on kielletty. Muun kuin liit- kkeiden myyntiin. Jos samassa paikassa sekä päivä- että yöpaikka (P+Y): Päivä= klo 07-18, yö= klo19-06 (tunnin siirtymäajat!) / kk (alv 0 %) teessä määritetyn kioskin pitäminen alueella on kiellettyä. Tarjoajan soveltuvuutta koskevat vaatimukset Pöytien ja tuolien pitäminen vuokra-alueen yhteydessä ei ole sallittua ilman vuok- 1. Vuokrattavat kohteet Myyntipaikat ranantajan kirjallista lupaa. Rahoitukselliseen ja taloudelliseen tilanteeseen liittyvät vaatimukset Karttaliitteessä 2 on määritelty vuokrattavat kohteet. Toivottu 4. Vuokralainen harjoittaa vuokra-alueella elintarvikkeiden myyntiä kioskista. Muu toi- Tarjouksen liitteeksi seuraavat selvitykset: ensisijaisjärjestys 1. - 9. positio Päiväpaikka Tarjottu vuokrahinta / kk (alv 0 %) minta vuokra-alueella on kielletty. 2. Sopimuksen syntyminen Veroviranomaisen todistus maksetuista veroista ja sosiaali- 5. Vuokra-aika on 1.4.2012 – 31.12.2013. 1. 1P Tarjousten perusteella on tarkoitus solmia määräaikainen vuokrasopimus turvamaksuista tai verovelkatodistus tai selvitys siitä, että Tarjottu vuokrahinta ajalle 1.4.2012 – 31.12.2013 jokaiseen vuokrakohteeseen yhden valitun verovelkaa koskeva maksusuunnitelma on tehty. (liitteeksi 6. Vuokra-aluetta saa käyttää aikaisintaan sen jälkeen, kun vuokralainen on saanut 2. 2P tarjoajan kanssa. 1) toimenpideluvan kioskille, tai kirjallisen tiedon rakennusvalvontavirastosta, ettei toi-

äivä= klo 07-18, yö= klo19-06 ( menpidelupaa tarvita. 3. 3P Yksi tarjoaja voi vuokrata korkeintaan kaksi eri vuokrakohdetta. Yhtenä Työeläkekassan ja / tai vakuutusyhtiön todistus eläkevakuu- tarjoajana pidetään samaan konserniin kuuluvia oikeushenkilöitä tai tila- tuksen ottamisesta ja eläkevakuutusmaksujen suorittamises- 7. Vuokran määrä on x euroa kuukaudessa ilman arvonlisäveroa. Vuokraan lisätään nnetta, jossa luonnollinen tai oikeushenkilö voi käyttää tosiasiallista 4. 5P voimassa olevan arvonlisäverokannan mukainen vero, jos vuokra on arvonlisävero- ta tai selvitys siitä, että erääntyneitä eläkevakuutusmaksuja määräysvaltaa useamman tarjoajan toimissa. koskeva maksusopimus on tehty.(liitteeksi 2) lain mukaan verollista. Vuokra maksetaan rakennusviraston laskua vastaan kuukau- 5. 6P sittain. Vuokrasopimus laaditaan noudattaen liitteen SOPIMUSLUONNOS Mikäli tarjoajalla ei ole velvollisuutta vakuutusten ottami- mukaisia ehtoja. 6. 8P 8P Päiväpaikka 1P 2P 3P 5P 6P 8. Sopimuksessa määritettyjä oikeuksia ja velvollisuuksia ei saa siirtää kolmannelle il- seen, tästä on esitettävä erillinen selvitys. Selvitys voi olla man toisen sopijapuolen kirjallista suostumusta. Suostumus vaaditaan myös vuokra- tarjoajan itsensä laatima. laisen yhtiörakenteen muuttamista tarkoittaviin toimenpiteisiin. 3. Vuokratarjouksen ilmoittaminen Yöpaikka Tarjouksen liitteeksi seuraava selvitys: Myyntipaikat 6. positio 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Suostumuksen vaatimisella kaupunki kontrolloi sopimuksen mahdollisen uuden tosi- Vuokratarjous tulee ilmoittaa liitteenä olevalla tarjouslomakkeella euroa 7. 2Y Vakuutusyhtiön todistus vastuuvakuutuksen sisällöstä, voi- asiallisen sopimusosapuolen kykyä vastata sopimusvelvoitteista ja kelpoisuutta toimia (alv 0 %) / kuukausi / vuokrauskohde. massaolosta ja vakuutusmaksujen suorittamisesta. (liitteeksi kaupungin sopimuskumppanina. Kontrolliarvion jälkeen mahdollinen suostumus anne- 8. 4Y taan siitä kaupungin yksiköstä, joka hallinnoi sopimusta. Sopimusta tehtäessä sitä hal- 5 P+Y Kampin metroasema 3) 07-22 Tarjoajan on ilmoitettava: linnoi rakennusviraston alueidenkäyttötoimisto. 19-06 - tähän tarjouskilpailuun annetut samaan konserniin kuulu- 9. 5Y vien yhtiöiden tekemät tarjoukset, ja 9. Vuokranantaja haluaa tukea pienyrittämistä ilman tarpeettomia alihankkijoita ja siksi Seuraavat selvitykset: 10. 7Y vuokra-alueella tapahtuvan toiminnan järjestäminen alihankintana on kiellettyä. Kaupparekisterinote (jäljennös) (liitteeksi 4) 11. 9Y

Päiväpaikka: klo Yöpaikka: klo Selvitys rekisteröimättömyyden perusteista, jos tarjoaja ei Päiväys ja tarjoajan allekirjoitus sekä yhteystiedot:

kuulu kauppa-, ennakkoperintä-, työnantaja- tai arvonlisäve- Helsingin kaupungin rakennusvirasto | Postiosoite: PL 1500, 00099 HELSINGIN KAUPUNKI | Osoite: Kasarmikatu 21 - - että yöpaikka (P+Y): P Jos samassa paikassa sekä päivä- Puhelin (09) 310 1661 | Faksi (09) 310 38655 | [email protected] | www.hkr.hel.fi Vuokratarjous tarjouspyyntöön 2042 / 10.2.2012 elintarvikkeiden myyntipaikka Tarjoaja: P= päiväpaikka ja Y= yöpaikka P= päiväpaikka ja Y= yöpaikka Toivottu ensisijaisjärjestys 1. - 9. Helsingin kaupunki Rakennusvirasto tpliite_279 Liite 4

ture is somewhat like a roller coaster ride. It plumbs the depths as well as ascending to high points that are genuinely world-class. Helsinki’s opportunity is to find a Finnish take on these globally relevant themes in a manner that is both distinctive, and so competitive, whilst progressing everyday quality of life for its citizens. Many of the ingredients have been sourced. It’s time to draw up the menu and get cooking.

Opportunity space 53 54 A NIGHT ON THE TOWN IN 2011

Photographs by Kaarle Hurtig

55 Jaskan Grilli, 4:35, Late August

56 Karhupuiston Grilli, 2:00, early August

57 Hesarin Grilli, 3:45, early August

58 Uudenmaankatu, 3:15, mid August

59 Kurvin Grilli, 3:25, early August

60 Karhupuiston Grilli, 2:20, early August

61 Kurvin Grilli, 3:30, early August

62 Iso-Roba, 5:05, late August

63 Jaskan Grilli, 4:15, late August

64 Behind Jaskan Grilli, 4:05, late August

65 Iso-Roba, 5:35, late August

66 Iso-Roba, 5:20, late August

67 68 A DAY IN THE CITY

Photographs by Dan Hill & Bryan Boyer

69 Meilahti, 14:00, July

70 71 Sepänpuisto, 15:30, July

72 73 Korkeavuorenkatu and Johanneksen kirkkopuisto, 18:40, late August

74 75 Baltic Herring Fair, 14:10, October

76 77 Sinebrycho!in puisto, 18:00, August

78 79 Kaivopuiston rantaa, 11:00, February

80 81 Hietalahdentori, 9:00, October

82 83 84 HOW TO READ A HODARI

Alongside this book we’ve created a small run of posters that explore the geography, and make-up of hodari, the sausage snack which is ubiquitous on Helsinki’s streets. Since you’ve downloaded this as a PDF or printed it on demand, the poster is repro- duced in the following section on separate pages. We wouldn’t want you to feel left out.

85 majoneesi mayo ketsuppi Where ketchup

sinappi * Nakki, hodari, makkara, these are mustard just a few of the words used to describe the Does PEPPER reigning champion of Helsinki’s street food kingdom: the sausage. This poster is an introduction to the most popular form of nakki. For such a Hodari* local thing, it can be höyste a surprisingly global production. relish

nakkit Come hotdogs CORIANDER

GINGER sipulit ONIONS onions TOMATOES SUGAR Finland im- From? ports tomatoes aterimet perunat during the MSG utensils potatoes colder months ONIONS Finland grows many potatoes but some are still imported POTATOES TOMATO CONCENTRATE from the Netherlands

CONDIMENTS MUSTARD SEED MUSTARD SEED KETCHUP CORIANDER

kartonki carton

86 HELSINKI STREET EATS

Late night grub, coffee stands, mobile Myöhäisillan pubiruoka, kahvilat kitchens, kiosks, hole-in-the-wall ja kuppilat, siirreltävät keittiöt, sandwich joints & market stalls—street nakkikioskit ja markkinakojut – food is an integral part of culture through katuruoka on erottamaton osa its sheer everydayness. It is literally all arkipäiväistä kaupunkikulttuuria. around us. Katuruoka tarjoaa hyvän alustan Street food is a breeding ground for ruokainnovaatioille. Koska toiminta on innovation that can percolate upwards. pienimuotoista, pienetkin investoinnit www.low2no.org/food/ It tends to involve smaller investments, riittävät jo pitkälle ja innovointi voi with individual business operating at a edetä nopeassakin tahdissa. Katuruoassa smaller scale and allowing innovation to nopeus houkuttaa, mutta voisiko se happen at an accelerated pace. The speed ollakin enemmänkin kuin pikaruokaa? of street food is exciting, but can it be more than fast food? Ruokaan liittyy monia eri ulottuvuuksia, kuten ravintoarvot, itsemääräämisoikeus, MAYO Today food is linked to sustenance as ekologisuus ja kulttuuri. Niinpä MUSTARD much as it is sovereignty, carbon as ruokakulttuurista nousevat innovaatiot much as culture. Therefore, innovation ovat kaupungeille ja erottumaan PALM OIL Asia KETCHUP produces in this area is a key part of the strategic pyrkiville alueille strategisesti PEPPER spices and positioning of cities and regions who now tärkeitä niiden kilpaillessa huomiosta GINGER oils used compete for attention in a crowded global globaaleillakin markkinoilla. mostly in market. condiments POTATO STARCH Sitran yksinkertainen kysymys kuuluu: Sitra is asking a simple question: how miten Helsinki voisi hyödyntää TOMATOES BEEF can Helsinki leverage its rich history historiaansa ja meneillään olevia suomeksi Tiivistelmä and existing experiments to rethink the kokeiluja katuruokakulttuurin business, policy, and experience kehittämisessä? of street food? Olemme kiinnostuneita edistämään We’re interested in enabling food ruokayrittäjyyttä kohti uusia POTATOES PACKAGING entrepreneur"ip with an eye towards innovaatioita, laatua ja kestävyyttä. Jos VINEGAR diversity, quality, and sustainability. If tuntuu tutulta, jutellaan lisää! PORK PLASTICS this sounds tasty, let’s talk! CONDIMENTS & RELISH

SAUSAGES GLUCOSE & OIL majoneesi mayo ketsuppi Where ketchup

sinappi * Nakki, hodari, makkara, these are mustard just a few of the words used to describe the Does PEPPER reigning champion of Helsinki’s street food kingdom: the sausage. This poster is an introduction to the most popular form of nakki. For such a Hodari* local thing, it can be höyste a surprisingly global production. relish

nakkit Come hotdogs CORIANDER

GINGER sipulit ONIONS onions TOMATOES SUGAR Finland im- From? ports tomatoes aterimet perunat during the MSG utensils potatoes colder months ONIONS Finland grows many potatoes but some are still imported POTATOES TOMATO CONCENTRATE from the Netherlands

CONDIMENTS MUSTARD SEED MUSTARD SEED KETCHUP CORIANDER

kartonki carton

87 HELSINKI STREET EATS

Late night grub, coffee stands, mobile Myöhäisillan pubiruoka, kahvilat kitchens, kiosks, hole-in-the-wall ja kuppilat, siirreltävät keittiöt, sandwich joints & market stalls—street nakkikioskit ja markkinakojut – food is an integral part of culture through katuruoka on erottamaton osa its sheer everydayness. It is literally all arkipäiväistä kaupunkikulttuuria. around us. Katuruoka tarjoaa hyvän alustan Street food is a breeding ground for ruokainnovaatioille. Koska toiminta on innovation that can percolate upwards. pienimuotoista, pienetkin investoinnit www.low2no.org/food/ It tends to involve smaller investments, riittävät jo pitkälle ja innovointi voi with individual business operating at a edetä nopeassakin tahdissa. Katuruoassa smaller scale and allowing innovation to nopeus houkuttaa, mutta voisiko se happen at an accelerated pace. The speed ollakin enemmänkin kuin pikaruokaa? of street food is exciting, but can it be more than fast food? Ruokaan liittyy monia eri ulottuvuuksia, kuten ravintoarvot, itsemääräämisoikeus, MAYO Today food is linked to sustenance as ekologisuus ja kulttuuri. Niinpä MUSTARD much as it is sovereignty, carbon as ruokakulttuurista nousevat innovaatiot much as culture. Therefore, innovation ovat kaupungeille ja erottumaan PALM OIL Asia KETCHUP produces in this area is a key part of the strategic pyrkiville alueille strategisesti PEPPER spices and positioning of cities and regions who now tärkeitä niiden kilpaillessa huomiosta GINGER oils used compete for attention in a crowded global globaaleillakin markkinoilla. mostly in market. condiments POTATO STARCH Sitran yksinkertainen kysymys kuuluu: Sitra is asking a simple question: how miten Helsinki voisi hyödyntää TOMATOES BEEF can Helsinki leverage its rich history historiaansa ja meneillään olevia suomeksi Tiivistelmä and existing experiments to rethink the kokeiluja katuruokakulttuurin business, policy, and experience kehittämisessä? of street food? Olemme kiinnostuneita edistämään We’re interested in enabling food ruokayrittäjyyttä kohti uusia POTATOES PACKAGING entrepreneur"ip with an eye towards innovaatioita, laatua ja kestävyyttä. Jos VINEGAR diversity, quality, and sustainability. If tuntuu tutulta, jutellaan lisää! PORK PLASTICS this sounds tasty, let’s talk! CONDIMENTS & RELISH

SAUSAGES GLUCOSE & OIL majoneesi mayo ketsuppi Where ketchup

sinappi * Nakki, hodari, makkara, these are mustard just a few of the words used to describe the Does PEPPER reigning champion of Helsinki’s street food kingdom: the sausage. This poster is an introduction to the most popular form of nakki. For such a Hodari* local thing, it can be höyste a surprisingly global production. relish

nakkit Come hotdogs CORIANDER

GINGER sipulit ONIONS onions TOMATOES SUGAR Finland im- From? ports tomatoes aterimet perunat during the MSG utensils potatoes colder months ONIONS Finland grows many potatoes but some are still imported POTATOES TOMATO CONCENTRATE from the Netherlands

CONDIMENTS MUSTARD SEED MUSTARD SEED KETCHUP CORIANDER

kartonki carton

88 HELSINKI STREET EATS

Late night grub, coffee stands, mobile Myöhäisillan pubiruoka, kahvilat kitchens, kiosks, hole-in-the-wall ja kuppilat, siirreltävät keittiöt, sandwich joints & market stalls—street nakkikioskit ja markkinakojut – food is an integral part of culture through katuruoka on erottamaton osa its sheer everydayness. It is literally all arkipäiväistä kaupunkikulttuuria. around us. Katuruoka tarjoaa hyvän alustan Street food is a breeding ground for ruokainnovaatioille. Koska toiminta on innovation that can percolate upwards. pienimuotoista, pienetkin investoinnit www.low2no.org/food/ It tends to involve smaller investments, riittävät jo pitkälle ja innovointi voi with individual business operating at a edetä nopeassakin tahdissa. Katuruoassa smaller scale and allowing innovation to nopeus houkuttaa, mutta voisiko se happen at an accelerated pace. The speed ollakin enemmänkin kuin pikaruokaa? of street food is exciting, but can it be more than fast food? Ruokaan liittyy monia eri ulottuvuuksia, kuten ravintoarvot, itsemääräämisoikeus, MAYO Today food is linked to sustenance as ekologisuus ja kulttuuri. Niinpä MUSTARD much as it is sovereignty, carbon as ruokakulttuurista nousevat innovaatiot much as culture. Therefore, innovation ovat kaupungeille ja erottumaan PALM OIL Asia KETCHUP produces in this area is a key part of the strategic pyrkiville alueille strategisesti PEPPER spices and positioning of cities and regions who now tärkeitä niiden kilpaillessa huomiosta GINGER oils used compete for attention in a crowded global globaaleillakin markkinoilla. mostly in market. condiments POTATO STARCH Sitran yksinkertainen kysymys kuuluu: Sitra is asking a simple question: how miten Helsinki voisi hyödyntää TOMATOES BEEF can Helsinki leverage its rich history historiaansa ja meneillään olevia suomeksi Tiivistelmä and existing experiments to rethink the kokeiluja katuruokakulttuurin business, policy, and experience kehittämisessä? of street food? Olemme kiinnostuneita edistämään We’re interested in enabling food ruokayrittäjyyttä kohti uusia POTATOES PACKAGING entrepreneur"ip with an eye towards innovaatioita, laatua ja kestävyyttä. Jos VINEGAR diversity, quality, and sustainability. If tuntuu tutulta, jutellaan lisää! PORK PLASTICS this sounds tasty, let’s talk! CONDIMENTS & RELISH

SAUSAGES GLUCOSE & OIL majoneesi mayo ketsuppi Where ketchup

sinappi * Nakki, hodari, makkara, these are mustard just a few of the words used to describe the Does PEPPER reigning champion of Helsinki’s street food kingdom: the sausage. This poster is an introduction to the most popular form of nakki. For such a Hodari* local thing, it can be höyste a surprisingly global production. relish

nakkit Come hotdogs CORIANDER

GINGER sipulit ONIONS onions TOMATOES SUGAR Finland im- From? ports tomatoes aterimet perunat during the MSG utensils potatoes colder months ONIONS Finland grows many potatoes but some are still imported POTATOES TOMATO CONCENTRATE from the Netherlands

CONDIMENTS MUSTARD SEED MUSTARD SEED KETCHUP CORIANDER

kartonki carton

89 HELSINKI STREET EATS

Late night grub, coffee stands, mobile Myöhäisillan pubiruoka, kahvilat kitchens, kiosks, hole-in-the-wall ja kuppilat, siirreltävät keittiöt, sandwich joints & market stalls—street nakkikioskit ja markkinakojut – food is an integral part of culture through katuruoka on erottamaton osa its sheer everydayness. It is literally all arkipäiväistä kaupunkikulttuuria. around us. Katuruoka tarjoaa hyvän alustan Street food is a breeding ground for ruokainnovaatioille. Koska toiminta on innovation that can percolate upwards. pienimuotoista, pienetkin investoinnit www.low2no.org/food/ It tends to involve smaller investments, riittävät jo pitkälle ja innovointi voi with individual business operating at a edetä nopeassakin tahdissa. Katuruoassa smaller scale and allowing innovation to nopeus houkuttaa, mutta voisiko se happen at an accelerated pace. The speed ollakin enemmänkin kuin pikaruokaa? of street food is exciting, but can it be more than fast food? Ruokaan liittyy monia eri ulottuvuuksia, kuten ravintoarvot, itsemääräämisoikeus, MAYO Today food is linked to sustenance as ekologisuus ja kulttuuri. Niinpä MUSTARD much as it is sovereignty, carbon as ruokakulttuurista nousevat innovaatiot much as culture. Therefore, innovation ovat kaupungeille ja erottumaan PALM OIL Asia KETCHUP produces in this area is a key part of the strategic pyrkiville alueille strategisesti PEPPER spices and positioning of cities and regions who now tärkeitä niiden kilpaillessa huomiosta GINGER oils used compete for attention in a crowded global globaaleillakin markkinoilla. mostly in market. condiments POTATO STARCH Sitran yksinkertainen kysymys kuuluu: Sitra is asking a simple question: how miten Helsinki voisi hyödyntää TOMATOES BEEF can Helsinki leverage its rich history historiaansa ja meneillään olevia suomeksi Tiivistelmä and existing experiments to rethink the kokeiluja katuruokakulttuurin business, policy, and experience kehittämisessä? of street food? Olemme kiinnostuneita edistämään We’re interested in enabling food ruokayrittäjyyttä kohti uusia POTATOES PACKAGING entrepreneur"ip with an eye towards innovaatioita, laatua ja kestävyyttä. Jos VINEGAR diversity, quality, and sustainability. If tuntuu tutulta, jutellaan lisää! PORK PLASTICS this sounds tasty, let’s talk! CONDIMENTS & RELISH

SAUSAGES GLUCOSE & OIL majoneesi mayo ketsuppi Where ketchup

sinappi * Nakki, hodari, makkara, these are mustard just a few of the words used to describe the Does PEPPER reigning champion of Helsinki’s street food kingdom: the sausage. This poster is an introduction to the most popular form of nakki. For such a Hodari* local thing, it can be höyste a surprisingly global production. relish

nakkit Come hotdogs CORIANDER

GINGER sipulit ONIONS onions TOMATOES SUGAR Finland im- From? ports tomatoes aterimet perunat during the MSG utensils potatoes colder months ONIONS Finland grows many potatoes but some are still imported POTATOES TOMATO CONCENTRATE from the Netherlands

CONDIMENTS MUSTARD SEED MUSTARD SEED KETCHUP CORIANDER

kartonki carton

HELSINKI STREET EATS

Late night grub, coffee stands, mobile Myöhäisillan pubiruoka, kahvilat kitchens, kiosks, hole-in-the-wall ja kuppilat, siirreltävät keittiöt, sandwich joints & market stalls—street nakkikioskit ja markkinakojut – food is an integral part of culture through katuruoka on erottamaton osa its sheer everydayness. It is literally all arkipäiväistä kaupunkikulttuuria. around us. Katuruoka tarjoaa hyvän alustan Street food is a breeding ground for ruokainnovaatioille. Koska toiminta on innovation that can percolate upwards. pienimuotoista, pienetkin investoinnit www.low2no.org/food/ It tends to involve smaller investments, riittävät jo pitkälle ja innovointi voi with individual business operating at a edetä nopeassakin tahdissa. Katuruoassa smaller scale and allowing innovation to nopeus houkuttaa, mutta voisiko se happen at an accelerated pace. The speed ollakin enemmänkin kuin pikaruokaa? of street food is exciting, but can it be more than fast food? Ruokaan liittyy monia eri ulottuvuuksia, kuten ravintoarvot, itsemääräämisoikeus, MAYO Today food is linked to sustenance as ekologisuus ja kulttuuri. Niinpä MUSTARD much as it is sovereignty, carbon as ruokakulttuurista nousevat innovaatiot much as culture. Therefore, innovation ovat kaupungeille ja erottumaan PALM OIL Asia KETCHUP produces in this area is a key part of the strategic pyrkiville alueille strategisesti PEPPER spices and positioning of cities and regions who now tärkeitä niiden kilpaillessa huomiosta GINGER oils used compete for attention in a crowded global globaaleillakin markkinoilla. mostly in market. condiments POTATO STARCH Sitran yksinkertainen kysymys kuuluu: Sitra is asking a simple question: how miten Helsinki voisi hyödyntää TOMATOES BEEF can Helsinki leverage its rich history historiaansa ja meneillään olevia suomeksi Tiivistelmä and existing experiments to rethink the kokeiluja katuruokakulttuurin business, policy, and experience kehittämisessä? of street food? Olemme kiinnostuneita edistämään We’re interested in enabling food ruokayrittäjyyttä kohti uusia POTATOES PACKAGING entrepreneur"ip with an eye towards innovaatioita, laatua ja kestävyyttä. Jos VINEGAR diversity, quality, and sustainability. If tuntuu tutulta, jutellaan lisää! PORK PLASTICS this sounds tasty, let’s talk! CONDIMENTS & RELISH

SAUSAGES GLUCOSE & OIL

90 majoneesi mayo ketsuppi Where ketchup

sinappi * Nakki, hodari, makkara, these are mustard just a few of the words used to describe the Does PEPPER reigning champion of Helsinki’s street food kingdom: the sausage. This poster is an introduction to the most popular form of nakki. For such a Hodari* local thing, it can be höyste a surprisingly global production. relish

nakkit Come hotdogs CORIANDER

GINGER sipulit ONIONS onions TOMATOES SUGAR Finland im- From? ports tomatoes aterimet perunat during the MSG utensils potatoes colder months ONIONS Finland grows many potatoes but some are still imported POTATOES TOMATO CONCENTRATE from the Netherlands

CONDIMENTS MUSTARD SEED MUSTARD SEED KETCHUP CORIANDER

kartonki carton

HELSINKI STREET EATS

Late night grub, coffee stands, mobile Myöhäisillan pubiruoka, kahvilat kitchens, kiosks, hole-in-the-wall ja kuppilat, siirreltävät keittiöt, sandwich joints & market stalls—street nakkikioskit ja markkinakojut – food is an integral part of culture through katuruoka on erottamaton osa its sheer everydayness. It is literally all arkipäiväistä kaupunkikulttuuria. around us. Katuruoka tarjoaa hyvän alustan Street food is a breeding ground for ruokainnovaatioille. Koska toiminta on innovation that can percolate upwards. pienimuotoista, pienetkin investoinnit www.low2no.org/food/ It tends to involve smaller investments, riittävät jo pitkälle ja innovointi voi with individual business operating at a edetä nopeassakin tahdissa. Katuruoassa smaller scale and allowing innovation to nopeus houkuttaa, mutta voisiko se happen at an accelerated pace. The speed ollakin enemmänkin kuin pikaruokaa? of street food is exciting, but can it be more than fast food? Ruokaan liittyy monia eri ulottuvuuksia, kuten ravintoarvot, itsemääräämisoikeus, MAYO Today food is linked to sustenance as ekologisuus ja kulttuuri. Niinpä MUSTARD much as it is sovereignty, carbon as ruokakulttuurista nousevat innovaatiot much as culture. Therefore, innovation ovat kaupungeille ja erottumaan PALM OIL Asia KETCHUP produces in this area is a key part of the strategic pyrkiville alueille strategisesti PEPPER spices and positioning of cities and regions who now tärkeitä niiden kilpaillessa huomiosta GINGER oils used compete for attention in a crowded global globaaleillakin markkinoilla. mostly in market. condiments POTATO STARCH Sitran yksinkertainen kysymys kuuluu: Sitra is asking a simple question: how miten Helsinki voisi hyödyntää TOMATOES BEEF can Helsinki leverage its rich history historiaansa ja meneillään olevia suomeksi Tiivistelmä and existing experiments to rethink the kokeiluja katuruokakulttuurin business, policy, and experience kehittämisessä? of street food? Olemme kiinnostuneita edistämään We’re interested in enabling food ruokayrittäjyyttä kohti uusia POTATOES PACKAGING entrepreneur"ip with an eye towards innovaatioita, laatua ja kestävyyttä. Jos VINEGAR diversity, quality, and sustainability. If tuntuu tutulta, jutellaan lisää! PORK PLASTICS this sounds tasty, let’s talk! CONDIMENTS & RELISH

SAUSAGES GLUCOSE & OIL

91 majoneesi mayo ketsuppi Where ketchup

sinappi * Nakki, hodari, makkara, these are mustard just a few of the words used to describe the Does PEPPER reigning champion of Helsinki’s street food kingdom: the sausage. This poster is an introduction to the most popular form of nakki. For such a Hodari* local thing, it can be höyste a surprisingly global production. relish

nakkit Come hotdogs CORIANDER

GINGER sipulit ONIONS onions TOMATOES SUGAR Finland im- From? ports tomatoes aterimet perunat during the MSG utensils potatoes colder months ONIONS Finland grows many potatoes but some are still imported POTATOES TOMATO CONCENTRATE from the Netherlands

CONDIMENTS MUSTARD SEED MUSTARD SEED KETCHUP CORIANDER

kartonki carton

HELSINKI STREET EATS

Late night grub, coffee stands, mobile Myöhäisillan pubiruoka, kahvilat kitchens, kiosks, hole-in-the-wall ja kuppilat, siirreltävät keittiöt, sandwich joints & market stalls—street nakkikioskit ja markkinakojut – food is an integral part of culture through katuruoka on erottamaton osa its sheer everydayness. It is literally all arkipäiväistä kaupunkikulttuuria. around us. Katuruoka tarjoaa hyvän alustan Street food is a breeding ground for ruokainnovaatioille. Koska toiminta on innovation that can percolate upwards. pienimuotoista, pienetkin investoinnit www.low2no.org/food/ It tends to involve smaller investments, riittävät jo pitkälle ja innovointi voi with individual business operating at a edetä nopeassakin tahdissa. Katuruoassa smaller scale and allowing innovation to nopeus houkuttaa, mutta voisiko se happen at an accelerated pace. The speed ollakin enemmänkin kuin pikaruokaa? of street food is exciting, but can it be more than fast food? Ruokaan liittyy monia eri ulottuvuuksia, kuten ravintoarvot, itsemääräämisoikeus, MAYO Today food is linked to sustenance as ekologisuus ja kulttuuri. Niinpä MUSTARD much as it is sovereignty, carbon as ruokakulttuurista nousevat innovaatiot much as culture. Therefore, innovation ovat kaupungeille ja erottumaan PALM OIL Asia KETCHUP produces in this area is a key part of the strategic pyrkiville alueille strategisesti PEPPER spices and positioning of cities and regions who now tärkeitä niiden kilpaillessa huomiosta GINGER oils used compete for attention in a crowded global globaaleillakin markkinoilla. mostly in market. condiments POTATO STARCH Sitran yksinkertainen kysymys kuuluu: Sitra is asking a simple question: how miten Helsinki voisi hyödyntää TOMATOES BEEF can Helsinki leverage its rich history historiaansa ja meneillään olevia suomeksi Tiivistelmä and existing experiments to rethink the kokeiluja katuruokakulttuurin business, policy, and experience kehittämisessä? of street food? Olemme kiinnostuneita edistämään We’re interested in enabling food ruokayrittäjyyttä kohti uusia POTATOES PACKAGING entrepreneur"ip with an eye towards innovaatioita, laatua ja kestävyyttä. Jos VINEGAR diversity, quality, and sustainability. If tuntuu tutulta, jutellaan lisää! PORK PLASTICS this sounds tasty, let’s talk! CONDIMENTS & RELISH

SAUSAGES GLUCOSE & OIL

92 majoneesi mayo ketsuppi Where ketchup

sinappi * Nakki, hodari, makkara, these are mustard just a few of the words used to describe the Does PEPPER reigning champion of Helsinki’s street food kingdom: the sausage. This poster is an introduction to the most popular form of nakki. For such a Hodari* local thing, it can be höyste a surprisingly global production. relish

nakkit Come hotdogs CORIANDER

GINGER sipulit ONIONS onions TOMATOES SUGAR Finland im- From? ports tomatoes aterimet perunat during the MSG utensils potatoes colder months ONIONS Finland grows many potatoes but some are still imported POTATOES TOMATO CONCENTRATE from the Netherlands

CONDIMENTS MUSTARD SEED MUSTARD SEED KETCHUP CORIANDER

kartonki carton

HELSINKI STREET EATS

Late night grub, coffee stands, mobile Myöhäisillan pubiruoka, kahvilat kitchens, kiosks, hole-in-the-wall ja kuppilat, siirreltävät keittiöt, sandwich joints & market stalls—street nakkikioskit ja markkinakojut – food is an integral part of culture through katuruoka on erottamaton osa its sheer everydayness. It is literally all arkipäiväistä kaupunkikulttuuria. around us. Katuruoka tarjoaa hyvän alustan Street food is a breeding ground for ruokainnovaatioille. Koska toiminta on innovation that can percolate upwards. pienimuotoista, pienetkin investoinnit www.low2no.org/food/ It tends to involve smaller investments, riittävät jo pitkälle ja innovointi voi with individual business operating at a edetä nopeassakin tahdissa. Katuruoassa smaller scale and allowing innovation to nopeus houkuttaa, mutta voisiko se happen at an accelerated pace. The speed ollakin enemmänkin kuin pikaruokaa? of street food is exciting, but can it be more than fast food? Ruokaan liittyy monia eri ulottuvuuksia, kuten ravintoarvot, itsemääräämisoikeus, MAYO Today food is linked to sustenance as ekologisuus ja kulttuuri. Niinpä MUSTARD much as it is sovereignty, carbon as ruokakulttuurista nousevat innovaatiot much as culture. Therefore, innovation ovat kaupungeille ja erottumaan PALM OIL Asia KETCHUP produces in this area is a key part of the strategic pyrkiville alueille strategisesti PEPPER spices and positioning of cities and regions who now tärkeitä niiden kilpaillessa huomiosta GINGER oils used compete for attention in a crowded global globaaleillakin markkinoilla. mostly in market. condiments POTATO STARCH Sitran yksinkertainen kysymys kuuluu: Sitra is asking a simple question: how miten Helsinki voisi hyödyntää TOMATOES BEEF can Helsinki leverage its rich history historiaansa ja meneillään olevia suomeksi Tiivistelmä and existing experiments to rethink the kokeiluja katuruokakulttuurin business, policy, and experience kehittämisessä? of street food? Olemme kiinnostuneita edistämään We’re interested in enabling food ruokayrittäjyyttä kohti uusia POTATOES PACKAGING entrepreneur"ip with an eye towards innovaatioita, laatua ja kestävyyttä. Jos VINEGAR diversity, quality, and sustainability. If tuntuu tutulta, jutellaan lisää! PORK PLASTICS this sounds tasty, let’s talk! CONDIMENTS & RELISH

SAUSAGES GLUCOSE & OIL

93 We wrote (and continue to develop) ing enough to motivate you to ask questions this document as an entry point into the about the status quo, all the better. And if complicated issues represented most visibly what you find on these pages is relevant by the simple presence of food in our ev- enough to you and your interests, we hope eryday lives. By publishing it now, when the that those few of you who had the tenacity to ideas are still developing and the history only make it all the way here to the end are able to partially written, we’re interested in opening find some hook or foothold upon which you this work to the broader community. can develop your own ideas and work. If what you’ve read has been interesting If there’s something in this document that as a historical curiosity, good. If it’s inspir- you feel strongly about, let us know. If there’s

94 SO NOW WHAT?

something that you feel is wrong or misrep- in everyday food culture. Developing our own resented, we welcome your corrections and prototypes helps us evaluate opportunities contributions. for systemic change. Equally, we’re inter- As a public body, Sitra offers this work in ested in whatever experiments you might be the public domain under a Creative Com- creating. mons license. On Low2No.org you will find a As always, we will be sharing updates PDF for reading, or perhaps even remixing. whenever possible on the Low2No.org web- Over the coming months Sitra will develop site. Stop by and leave a note? small scale prototypes as we search for op- portunities to enhance sustainable wellbeing

95 References & further reading

REFERENCES INTERVIEWS

Matti Klinge & Laura Kolbe, Helsinki, kaupungin tietokeskus & Edita, p. Tio Tikka, Entrepreneur, Cafe Daughter of the Baltic: A short 35-53. Camionette & Crepes, Helsinki biography 2.6.2011. Sillanpää, Merja (1991): Kaenkky.com: ”Porilaisen jalanjäljillä”. Ravintolan uusi aika. Hotelli- ja Johanna Mäkelä, Special Researcher Internet source, 12.6.2011: http://www. ravintolaneuvosto. at National Consumer Research kaenkky.com/?p=artl&id=55 Center, Helsinki 6.6.2011. Sillanpää, Merja (2002): Säännöstelty Järvenpää, Eeva (2006): huvi: suomalainen ravintola Olli Siren, Organiser of Ravintolapäivä, Vasikkahaasta tuli Helsingin 1900-luvulla. Suomen Kirjallisuuden Helsinki 8.6.2011. edustavin puisto. Helsingin Sanomat, Seura. Pekka Mustonen, Special Researcher 10.6.2006. Internet source, 25.6.2011: Talous Sanomat: ““Vain” 10 lupaa! at City of Helsinki, Helsinki 9.6.2011. http://www2.hs.fi/extrat/kaupunki/ Näin helposti perustat ravintolan”. korttelisarja/43_1.html Vilhelm Relander, Project Manager Internet source, article written on of Food Strategy at City of Helsinki, Mäkinen, Anne (2003a): ”Puistojen 27.5.2011: http://www.taloussanomat. Helsinki 9.6.2011. koristus ja katutilan kaunistus - fi/yrittaja/2011/05/26/vain-10- Helsingin kioskien historiaa”, in lupaa-nain-helposti-perustat- Grill Entrepreneur, Helsinki 10.6.2011. Tieteessä tapahtuu, nr. 2. Helsinki: ravintolan/20117385/137 Olli Sallinen and Saana Sipilä, Kiosk Tieteellisen seurain valtuuskunta, Yle, elävä arkisto (1961): Ravintolaolot Entrepreneurs, Turku 11.6.2011. p.19-24. Internet source, 30.5.2011: Suomessa. Internet source, 25.6.2011: http://www.tieteessatapahtuu.fi/032/ Johanna Porola, Kiosk Employee, http://www.yle.fi/elavaarkisto/?s=s&g= makinen.pdf Turku 12.6.2011. 5&ag=37&t=227&a=1088 Mäkinen, Anne (2003b): Kioski, Grill Entrepreneur, Turku 12.6.2011. John H. Wuorinen, “Finland’s Kipari, Kipsa, Snagari: Helsingin Prohibition Experiment,” Annals of kioskeja 1800- ja 1900-luvuilla. the American Academy of Political Helsingin kaupungin museo. and Social Science vol. 163, (Sep., Ruoppila, Sampo & Cantell, Timo 1932), pp. 216-226 in JSTOR (2000): ”Ravintolat ja Helsingin S. Sariola, “Prohibition in Finland, elävöityminen”, in URBS: Kirja 1919-1932; its background and Helsingin kaupunkikulttuurista, consequences,” Quarterly Journal of (Edit.) Stadipiiri. Helsinki: Helsingin Studies in Alcohol (Sept 1954) 15(3) pp 477-90

96 List of plates

CREDITS

Cover images: This book is printed Page 43: Kimmo Lind (flickr.com/ with four di!erent cover images. photos/klgallery/) Collect them all: “Isoroba”, Kaarle Pages 46, 47: Martti Tulenheimo Hurtig, 2011; “Ravintolapäivä”, Martti Tulenheimo, 2011; “Ima Helsinki”, Pages 56-67: Kaarle Hurtig Pertti Jenytin/LEHTIKUVA, 1959; Pages 23: Holger Eklund “Helsingfors, the Capital of Finland”, (LEHTIKUVA) US Library of Congress, 1901 Pages 25: Kalle Kultala Page 4: “City Hall Square in Helsinki, (LEHTIKUVA) Finland in 1820, before the rebuilding of Central Helsinki” Wikimedia Pages 27: Olympic World Photo Pool Commons http://commons.wikimedia. (LEHTIKUVA) org/wiki/File:Helsinki_1820.jpg Pages 29: Aarre Ekholm Page 17: “The Russian cathedral and (LEHTIKUVA) the harbor, Helsingfors, Russia, i.e., Pages 30: Pertti Jenytin Helsinki, Finland” ca.1890—ca.1900 (LEHTIKUVA) US Library of Congress http://www. loc.gov/pictures/item/2001697409/ Pages 32: Anna-Kristina Mörtengren (LEHTIKUVA) Page 18: “Interior of the Port of Helsingfors (harbor scene, Helsinki, s Finland) 1856” US Library of All other photos by Bryan Boyer / Congress http://www.loc.gov/pictures/ Dan Hill item/99614047/

Page 21: “Sauna Mariankatu” 1913 Signe Brander / Helsinki City Museum

97 Credits & contacts

CREDITS LOW2NO & SITRA CONTACTS

Sitra, The Finnish Innovation Fund Low2No is a project by Sitra, SRV Bryan Boyer © The authors and Sitra and VVO. [email protected] Justin W. Cook ISBN 978-951-563-836-6 (print) Low2No is a platform for urban [email protected] ISBN 978-951-563-837-3 (PDF) innovation, centred on a mixed-use Dan Hill block being designed for Jätkäsaari, [email protected] Printed-on-demand via lulu.com due for completion in 2014. Jukka Noponen Numerous strategies are carried [email protected] Helsinki Street Eats v1.0 wtihin Low2No, including prototypes Marco Steinberg Text by Bryan Boyer and Dan Hill for street food, food retail, food [email protected] (Sitra) with Ville Tikka and Nuppu delivery, urban agriculture and so on. Gävert (wevolve.us). Design by Bryan Contact details Boyer and Dan Hill. Sitra is an independent fund Itämerentori 2 operating under the supervision PL 160 Photo essay ‘A night on the town’ of the Finnish Parliament, which 00181 Helsinki by Kaarle Hurtig (kaarle.hurtig@ seeks to promote stable and Finland gmail.com). balanced development in Finland, qualitative and quantitative growth sitra.fi Research for ‘Where does Hodari of the economy, and international low2no.org come from?’ by Tea Tonnov (tea. competitiveness and cooperation. [email protected]) Our operations are funded out of the returns from our endowment capital Usage rights and business funding. This work is made available under a Creative Commons Attribution- NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.0 licence.

98 Late night grub, co!ee stands, mobile kitchens, kiosks, hole-in-the-wall sandwich joints & market stalls—street food is an integral part of culture through its sheer everydayness. It is literally all around us.

Street food is a breeding ground for innovation that can percolate upwards. It tends to involve smaller investments, with individual business operating at a smaller scale and allowing innovation to happen at an accelerated pace. The speed of street food is exciting, but can it be more than fast food?

Today food is linked to sustenance as much as it is sovereignty, carbon as much as culture. Therefore, innovation in this area is a key part of the strategic positioning of cities and regions who now compete for attention in a crowded global market.

Sitra is asking a simple question: how can Helsinki leverage its rich history and existing experiments to rethink the business, policy, and experience of street food?

ISBN 978-951-563-837-3 (PDF)