The Via Francigena in Rome
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
The Via Francigena in Rome Paths of the ancient pilgrimage route The via Francigena in Rome Paths of the ancient pilgrimage route Sovrintendenza Capitolina ai Beni Culturali with the National Civil Service, project: «Roma accoglie il mondo». Supervising Translations This guidebook provides detailed information on the Anna Maria Cerioni Maria Ludovica Di Biagi Via Francigena pilgrimage route in Rome. Francesca Romana Sinagra Costanza Preziosi After introducing the history of the route, the guidebook divides into two sections: the northern and Editorial board Graphic and layout design the southern Via Francigena. The first part encloses Flavia Campoli Chiara Cicone two alternative naturalistic paths, while the second one Renata Centola comprises two main routes with the related alternative Cartography trails. Texts and photography* Chiara Cicone Flavia Campoli • The urban paths are indicated in red Riccardo Cardilli Renata Centola Special thanks to Nicola Panico, Roberta Pigliacelli, • The naturalistic paths are indicated in green Chiara Cicone Gianluca Schingo, Roberto Tollo and Salvatore Vacanti. Maria Ludovica Di Biagi • Special topics are indicated in yellow Marta Giovannoli Costanza Preziosi • The boxes related to the ancient roads are Elisabetta Vannucci indicated in orange *Repertory photos have been selected from the Sovrintendenza Capitolina’s Archives. Profit seeking reproduction and alteration are forbidden as well as in the form of extracts without approval . Legge 633 del 22 Aprile 1941 e successive modifiche. INDEX • THE VIA FRANCIGENA • THE SOUTHERN VIA FRANCIGENA • THE NORTHERN VIA FRANCIGENA ROUTE ROUTE MAIN PATH: VIA APPIA • From Isola Farnese to La Giustiniana • The Roman roads - Via Appia • The ancient city of Veii • From Porta San Sebastiano to the III mile • The Roman roads - Via Cassia and via Trionfale • Ad catacumbas: the III mile • Alternative path: the Insugherata Nature Reserve • Among villas and sepulchres: from the IV to the X miles • From La Giustiniana to Monte Mario ALTERNATIVE PATH: VIA DELLE SETTE CHIESE • Ex Santa Maria della Pietà hospital complex • The Roman roads - Via Ostiense • The Monte Mario neighborhood • From the Non-catholic Cemetery to the General Markets • Alternative path: the Monte Mario Nature Reserve • From the Gazometro to Schuster Park • From Monte Mario to Saint Peter’s Basilica • From Saint Paul’s Basilica to via delle Sette Chiese • From the Park of the tombs of via Latina to the Park of the Aqueducts • Via delle Sette Chiese: the Garbatella District • The Park of the Aqueducts • Via delle Sette Chiese: the Ardeatino District • From Ostiense to Tor Marancia: colourful Street Art MAIN PATH: VIA PRENESTINA • The Roman roads - Via Prenestina ALTERNATIVE PATH: VIA LATINA • Porta Maggiore • The Roman roads - Via Latina • From Porta Maggiore to largo Preneste • From Porta Latina to the Park of the tombs of via Latina • From Villa Gordiani to Tenuta Formicola • The archaeological Park of the tombs of via Latina • Tenuta della Mistica • From Tor Tre Teste to Ponte di Nona THE VIA FRANCIGENA IN ROME LEGEND Main path Alternative path THE VIA FRANCIGENA The via Francigena is the most important pilgrim SIGERIC’S JOURNEY Today the via Francigena is a 1800 km long route route running from northern Europe to Rome and It is difficult to retrace the old itinerary of the via which passes, from Canterbury towards Rome, continuing towards south to Apulia and to the Francigena: the path has been modified in part for the through four European countries (England, France, harbors of the Mediterranean, from which in the seasonal feasibility and in part for historical events Switzerland and Italy) and through seven Italian past the pilgrims set sail towards Jerusalem. The during the Middle Ages. regions (Valle d’Aosta, Piemonte, Lombardia, route, used since the Early Middle Ages, has been Among the sources which describe this long journey, Emilia Romagna, Liguria, Toscana, Lazio). called “Francigena” since the Frankish Kingdom the main one is the diary of the Archbishop of when this path was almost entirely included in its Canterbury Sigeric. He wrote it in 990 on his way back The via Francigena crosses a large part of the area territories. to England from Rome where he went to receive his of Rome, where there is the final destination of the The pilgrims and merchants undertook this journey pallium, an ecclesiastical vestment, symbol of the pilgrimage: the Saint Peter’s Basilica. The path facing hidden dangers along rough roads and in jurisdiction delegated to high priests by the Holy See. inside the city has been determined in February unsafe times. The route was not only used to His itinerary is the most important document for 2015, with a deliberation defining the official paths. transmit merchandize but also to vehicle traditions, retracing the path as it is very detailed and entirely The north section starts from Parco di Veio and languages and experiences becoming a “cultural preserved. Therefore it has been useful to define the ends in piazza San Pietro with two alternative paths route” (Jacques Le Goff). modern path. inside the nature reserves Insugherata and Monte Nowadays the growing interest for pilgrimage Mario. routes and the new trend of “slow” travels bring a Also the southern path as been retraced according multitude of modern pilgrims along the Via to what the Regione Lazio has determined. Here Francigena searching for a journey in the midst of you can choose between the Regina viarum, the via nature. Appia (with the related alternative paths “via delle In 1994 the European Council has identified this Sette Chiese” and “via Latina”), and the route route as an “European Council’s cultural itinerary”, Prenestina (with the related alternative paths while in 2004 it has been declared an “European “Tenuta della Mistica” e “Prato Fiorito”). Council’s great cultural itinerary”. The European Association of Vie Francigene This guidebook provides images, maps and (AEVF) was founded in 2001 to promote the historical and practical detailed information which values of walks and pilgrimages. describe the path within the area of Rome. AEVF is officially allowed by the European Council, Roma Capitale is both founding partner View on Rome from Monte Mario. and member of the Executive Board. THE NORTHERN VIA FRANCIGENA LEGEND Main path Green path THE NORTHERN VIA FRANCIGENA Walking along the northern via Francigena, after Fratelli Gualandi and, at the end of the street, turn left crossing the Parco di Veio, you reach Rome from via onto the via Trionfale. della Riserva Campetti. Follow this road until you Once you reach the via Trionfale, you can either follow reach via dell’Isola Farnese. From here you can turn it entirely until largo Trionfale or take the alternative right onto via dell’Isola Farnese and continue along the path through “Monte Mario”. street until the crossroadss with the via Cassia. Once In order to reach the Nature Reserve of Monte you reach the via Cassia turn left towards Rome. In the Mario it is necessary to take a detour from the via area called “La Giustiniana” there is the crossroadss Trionfale to piazza Igea by turning left onto via Igea. with the via Trionfale: from here you can either turn Continue until the crossroadss with via della right onto the via Trionfale or continue along the via Camilluccia which you follow until you turn left onto Cassia following the alternative trail “Insugherata”. via Edmondo De Amicis. The entrance of the Reserve is located on the right after a bend. Inside, follow the path which leads to the first open space with view on the city. Then continue along the The pathway in the Insugherata Nature Reserve. trail until you exit the Nature Reserve from via del Parco della Vittoria. Here you are again on the via The northern via Francigena is an ancient path covered Trionfale and after just a few meters, on the left, re- by the Archbishop Sigeric in 990 on his way back from enter the Reserve by crossing an arch in order to enjoy Rome to Canterbury. It follows two main roads: the the view of the Saint Peter’s Basilica. via Cassia, from the borgo di Isola Farnese to the area Once again exit on the via Trionfale and proceed along of La Giustiniana, and the via Trionfale, from La the street until largo Trionfale. From here follow via Giustiniana to largo Trionfale, near the Saint Peter’s Leone IV and at the end of the skirt the Vatican walls Basilica. The passing of time and the evolution of turning left onto viale dei Bastioni di Michelangelo. urban planning have considerably modified the When you reach piazza del Risorgimento, turn right conditions of this two main roads which twist and turn onto via di Porta Angelica. From here follow the street inside the Roman outskirts. Since these roads are Road sign in the Insugherata Nature Reserve. until you reach the Bernini’s colonnade and the Saint always congested, it was necessary to find alternative Following the via Cassia until the street number 1081 Peter’s Basilica. routes: the path “Insugherata” and the path “Monte you get to the entrance of Insugherata Nature Mario” which pass through two Nature Reserves and Reserve. The path through the Reserve starts from offer pilgrims a pleasant and safer walk in the midst of here and it’s about 5 km long until via Augusto Conti, greenery. from which you exit the park. Continue along via km 1,2 THE NORTHERN VIA FRANCIGENA FROM ISOLA FARNESE TO LA GIUSTINIANA Coming from Formello, we get into the city of Rome Continuing on the via Cassia once reached the through Parco di Veio in via della Riserva Campetti intersection with via Torre delle Cornacchie, there is its and we continue following this road until the namesake Tower, which dates back between the 11th croassroad with via dell’Isola Farnese.