Tilda and the Giant
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DAILY EDITION JUNE 28, 2017 1 Pitti Filati Preview Cracking Down High And Low The yarn fair’s Google may have Dr. Harold Lancer is 81st edition will to change its search unveiling a $1,000 product focus on research algorithm after the and a midpriced line with and creativity. E.C.’s €2.4 billion fine. Ryan Seacrest. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Pages 14 to 17 Page 3 Page 4 FASHION Under Tilda Armour And the Shakes Up Team ● Patrik Frisk, who served Giant most recently as ceo of Aldo Group, is named president and chief operating officer. Pig BY JEAN E. PALMIERI Kevin Plank has decided he needs to add some bench strength to get Under Armour back on track. The hard-driving and hands-on Plank, the brand’s founder, chairman and chief executive officer, on Tuesday named Patrik Frisk president and chief operating officer, effective July 10. Frisk will report to Plank, who had previously held the president’s role as well. The addition of Frisk and a major realignment of other top managers comes CONTINUED ON PAGE 7 aboul D Revolution amine Y Calling: icks and icks H iPhone’s Impact ssistants: Fiona ssistants: A The iPhone changed everything. While Steve Jobs didn’t invent the eclan Sheils; Styling smartphone, he D made it cool and chic — and 10 years later, the device has helped transform modern life air coloring by air coloring by in everything from retailing to H photographs to how we talk with our friends. The fashion world was one of its earliest adopters — and along the way has helped propel iPhone-driven phenomenons like Instagram and m-commerce. Following a controversial premiere at Cannes Film Festival, Today, even brick-and-mortar South Korean director Bong Joon-ho’s animal rights film stores lead with a mobile strategy because of the iPhone. “Okja” has made its Netflix streaming debut. The movie’s tit- ular star? A giant CGI pig — and Tilda Swinton, here in Haider On pages 8 to 12, WWD takes a look at Ackermann, as villain. Swinton said Okja was partly inspired the phone’s impact, including: air by Sam McKnight; Makeup by Sam Bryant; Sam Bryant; by Sam McKnight; Makeup air by H by her son’s Springer spaniel. “As anybody knows who lives • How the iPhone Changed with animals, they teach you more about what it is to be a Everything good human than most people: patience, goodheartedness, enthusiasm, presence, forgiveness, focus, restfulness, hones- • Winning on the Small Screen erry Stafford; erry Stafford; J ty,” she says. For more on the movie and Swinton, see page 20. • What’s Next: The Chatty Age PHOTOGRAPH BY SØLVE SUNDSBØ Styled by Styled by 22 JUNE 28, 2017 BUSINESS Fashion Scoops Forever 21 Takes Show Gucci’s Preemptive Jab at “Hortus Sanitatis” Business book. When it comes to the relentless Gucci in Fight for Stripes fashion cycles, Azzedine Alaïa has never been a slave to the ● The fast-fashion chain is rhythm. The Tunisian-born de- not waiting around for a signer famously likes to present his collections according to his trademark lawsuit to take own agenda, and they’re highly intimate affairs, held in his Rue Gucci to court. de Moussy headquarters in BY KALI HAYS Paris’ Marais district. His couture shows are an Forever 21 Inc. is trying to get the jump even rarer occurrence, with on Gucci in a brewing trademark dispute. the last dating back six years. The fast-fashion retailer on Mon- For his latest, the designer the spring. With 1,000 copies available, has chosen to get in sync with Alaïa has two stand-alone the book comes with a red cotton day asked a California federal court to Paris Couture Week with his fall stores in Paris, and is stocked at pouch showcasing a skull and declare that it is not infringing on Gucci’s An exclusive picture of the couture show scheduled to take a variety of retailers, including crossbones. The pale-blue cover trademark blue and red as well as green Gucci resort show in Florence. place on July 5, in an evening Galeries Lafayette in Paris and 10 features gold foil details, which and red stripe design, which the luxury slot falling between the Valenti- Corso Como in Milan. In London, also define the page edges of the fashion house has allegedly threatened not only are shoppers unlikely to confuse the brand is sold at Dover Street entire tome. no and Fendi shows. litigation over. any of its merchandise with that of Gucci, His last couture show was Market, Harrods, Harvey Nichols The publication will retail at 75 Forever 21, which is no stranger to but that it is simply “not infringing any presented in 2011 after an eight- and Selfridges. pounds starting from July 5, when year hiatus from the runway, with — KATYA FOREMAN it will be officially launched at the accusations of trademark infringement, Gucci trademark.” the epic event drawing guests Comme des Garçons Trading characterized the stripe designs at issue Forever 21 went even further, and including Sofia Coppola, Kanye Museum in Paris with a special as “among the most favorite, popular and asked the court to cancel Gucci’s stripe West, Donatella Versace and Gucci’s Book book-signing event. widely used colors and design features trademarks at issue and said any related Victoire de Castellane. Successively, the tome will on clothing,” and asked that it be pro- pending applications should not be The designer held his spring Of History be available globally in selected tected from a lawsuit by Gucci. registered with the U.S. Trademark and stores, including Colette in Paris; 2017 ready-to-wear show in Gucci will launch a limited-edi- Gucci has allegedly “warned” Forever Patent Office. October. tion book next week. Named “Hor- Dover Street Market and Dash- Alaïa at the start of his tus Sanitatis,” which means “The wood in New York; Arcana in Los 21 in writing that it is infringing on the “Many clothing and accessory items career only ever presented Garden of Health,” the tome takes Angeles; Dover Street Market stripe trademarks and has threatened to adorned with decorative stripes colored couture collections at his Rue de its Latin title from the first natural in London; Daikanyama T-Site in sue for injunctive and monetary relief. blue-red-blue or green-red-green are Bellechasse atelier, according to history encyclopedia, published in Tokyo; 10 Corso Como in Milan; Specifically, Forever 21 said it’s sold by countless third parties,” Forever a spokeswoman for the house. 1485 in Germany. Minishop in Madrid; Wer-Haus in received three letters from Gucci’s attor- 21 said. “Gucci should not be allowed to He shifted to presenting rtw in “Hortus Sanitatis” collects a Barcelona; Addicted and Boon neys, most recently in mid-February, claim that Gucci, alone, has a monopoly the Shop in Seoul, among others. 1981 while continuing to create series of black-and-white and demanding that the retailer “discontinue on all blue-red-blue and green-red-green couture pieces. They were color images portraying male “Hortus Sanitatis” is distrib- all sales of certain clothing and accessory striped clothing and accessory items.” mainly presented in museum and female models sporting uted by Idea, a London-based exhibitions such as the Palais outfits of the label’s pre-fall independent publisher founded items with blue-red-blue and green-red- A representative of Gucci and its Galliera’s 2013 show dedicated collection. Shot in historical in 2009 by Angela Hill and David green stripes.” parent company Kering could not be to the designer. locations in Rome — such as old Owen. Idea already distributed Products being singled out by Gucci reached immediately for comment. The Alaïa couture line is only apothecaries, libraries and book Gucci’s former limited-edition as infringing include a stripe choker Gucci holds at least 14 trademarks sold at his Rue de Moussy store. stores —the images were taken publication “Epiphany,” which necklace, a satin bomber jacket with covering its popular stripe designs, which Among retail developments, by photographer Derek Ridgers, was curated by photographer stripe details and a knit sweater with frequently appear on accessories, but are best known for capturing actors, Ari Marcopoulos, last year. In meanwhile, the Compagnie stripe details, all being sold online and in also incorporated into apparel. The first Financière Richemont-owned musicians, clubs and street addition, the publisher released brand is poised to open a store culture, including London’s punk Ridger’s book “The Others” in Forever 21 stores. registration came in 1979 and the most on London’s New Bond Street in scene during the Seventies. 2015. — SANDRA SALIBIAN But Forever 21 argued to the court that recent in 2017. Memo Pad collages of black-and-white and satu- and Alexa signifies a move toward quality rated color images for a contrast of the native content in the fashion and life- old-fashioned and modern. The models style space with a traditional publisher are shot outdoors in giant, colorful faux- working to bring the content to scale,” fur coats, hats and boots; in a jazz hall said New York Post publisher and ceo decked in drop-waist dresses and crystal Jesse Angelo. “We see a real opportunity jazz age headpieces, and in a boat on the in Alexa’s partnership with BlackBook in bayou in light pastel and printed dresses. response to an increased demand for Katie Grand styled the campaign, with luxury content.” hair by Anthony Turner and makeup by “Essentially, they bring the scale Dianne Kendall.