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Impressions from the Geneva Shows THE WORLD’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH MAGAZINE EUROPE www.europastar.com IMPRESSIONS FROM EUROPE EDITION All Europe Central & Eastern Europe, Russia THE GENEVA SHOWS N° 317 1 /2013 Feb. / March 0 2 SIHH | GTE | Exhibitions 1 9 7 7 0 0 1 4 2 6 0 0 0 4 First BaselWorld previews Service, please! CHF12 / €10 / US$12 FLYING TOURBILLON High feminine complication, this flying tourbillon decorated with the motif of the camellia, a tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel’s favorite flower, beats away discreetly and almost secretly at the heart of the Première watch. Having no upper bridge, the carriage decorated with a camellia appears to be rotating in a weightless state. Limited edition of 20 numbered pieces. 18-carat white gold, set with 228 diamonds (~7.7 carats). www.chanel.com Editorial113_Editorial113 14.02.13 14:18 Page2 4 EDITORIAL europa star The lament of those who are drowning R Pierre M. Maillard Editor-in-Chief The refrain is well known. It has been sung in these columns on several occa- sions, but now it has really become stuck in the mind. The refrain? The lament, more like, is that of the small indepen- dent companies that are drowning. On one hand, you find a modest but quite honourable brand that, after ten years of efforts, finds doors closing to it one by one. On the other hand, a single independent company, whose beauti- versity of the watch landscape is This evolution does not concern only ful and artfully enamelled products are inevitably declining. One by one, the the watch industry; it is widespread in no longer welcome at stores which are niches that provide the variety in the other sectors, too. It is, in fact, a reflec- already inundated with merchandise. watch industry are being occupied by tion of a much more general phenom- Here and there, small yet very innova- the big groups. But how can we blame enon in society. In other more political tive companies are closing their doors; them? Why should they restrain them- times, we called this “imperialism”, investors are giving up and vanishing selves when everything, beginning with the “natural” tendency of the big to into thin air.Recently,an open letter was their shareholder structure,pushes them grow even bigger, of the propensity of received at the editor’s desk, from an to make a profit at any cost, while a kingdoms to become “empires”. “independent family business” stand- silent war rages in the display windows. Having said that, however, there are ing up for its “right to exist without So, how then can a small watch com- some counter-attacks happening here being constantly threatened by an atti- pany specialising, for example, in the and there. Initiatives are being launch- tude of short-term profit and unre- métiers d'art survive—or even simply ed, groups are being formed. In other strained capitalism (…) and by devas- succeed in placing a few products that words, life goes on, always confound- tating pressure on distribution (…), it transports in a rowboat, while nearby ing predictions. But let’s be attentive which will result in less choice.” This the big groups arrive in aircraft carri- to this general increase in hostilities same company pleads, loud and clear, ers loaded with pallets of high-end and to this race ahead, because they for the “re-establishment of healthy watches? may be the warning signs of a major competitive practices for the better- Another concern relating to watch- new bubble. ment of the industry and in the inter- making biodiversity is that the daz- est of the final consumer,” before con- zling numbers barely conceal a reality cluding that “without this awareness, that, over time, is indeed worrisome: it will be more and more difficult to the decrease in volume (down 15.3 bring to our wonderful industry the per cent in December 2012, down 2.7 freshness of sensible alternatives.” per cent for the year) accompanied by Behind the triumphant numbers of the an increase in value (up 11.3 per cent year—for the first time, the Swiss for the year). This means quite simply watch industry exceeded the threshold that fewer watches are being sold, but of CHF 21 billion at export—the biodi- at higher prices. A SWISS HISTORY OF TIME Perpetual calendar, every possible date complication, fl yback chronograph function and tachymeter scale – the complexity and functionality of the Manero ChronoPerpetual are hard to match. An impressive timepiece, whose date will require no correction until the year 2100, when the Gregorian calendar calls for the omission of a leap year. www.carl-f-bucherer.com 112_0044_ChronoPerp_Europa.indd2_0044_ChronoPerp_Europa.indd 1 4466 115.11.125.11.12 110:480:48 for the new emperors Boutique DeWitt Montres DeWitt SA DeWitt America Shop 2036 Level 2 Elements, Rue du Pré-de-la-Fontaine 2, 4330 N.E 2nd Avenue 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon, Hong Kong 1217 Meyrin, Geneva, Switzerland Miami FL 33137, USA (+852) 31532668 +41 22 750 97 97 +1.305.572.9812 [email protected] [email protected] - www.dewitt.ch [email protected] Print_Dble Ad_410x265_CH_2013.indd 1 revolutionary by tradition 04.02.13 17:00 Sommaire113_Sommaire113 27.02.13 07:34 Page2 8 CONTENTS europa star THE WORLD’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH MAGAZINE EUROPE www.europastar.com N° 317 1/2013 FEB./MARCH EDITORIAL 4 The lament of those who are drowning COVER STORY RL67 TOURBILLON 12 Ralph Lauren’s watchmaking safari by Ralph Lauren The first tourbillon presented by Ralph Lauren has a 45mm diam- GENEVA SHOWS eter stainless steel case that has 16 Introduction: Under the sign of Midas been treated with a gunmetal 18 Strategic métiers d’art finish. It is powered by the self- 23 High-tech materials and movements winding RL67 manufacture tour- 27 The IDTWO concept watch by Cartier billon calibre, which offers a pow- 28 The year of butterflies and eagles er reserve of approximately 38 32 Surrounding the SIHH: Space stations and satellites hours and is driven by a gold CONNECTING 40 All change for the Geneva Time Exhibition micro-rotor that is visible behind 45 A (show) week in the life of a retailer a transparent sapphire crystal ICONIC case back. It comes with a brown alligator leather strap that has BRANDS PRE-BASEL been treated to give it a special TO THEIR 49 Raymond Weil, just the right positioning patina. 51 JeanRichard - a new philosophy of life CLIENTELE 56 The new BaselWorld ONLINE RALPH LAUREN GALLERIES Watch and Jewelry 24, route de la Galaise 58 Pre-Basel – gents’ watches CH – 1228 Plan-les-Ouates 59 Pre-Basel – ladies’ watches Tel: +41 (0) 22 595 59 00 www.ralphlaurenwatches.com SERVICE, PLEASE! 60 Patek Philippe: patrimonial service 62 Stoll & Company, America’s Watchmakers RETAILER PROFILE 66 Talking Turkey – Saat & Saat in Istanbul WORLDWATCHWEB® 68 Global consumer interest for haute horlogerie brands increases Europa Star HBM SA 25 Route des Acacias 70 EDITORIAL AND ADVERTISERS’ INDEX P.O. Box 1355 CH-1211 Geneva 26 Switzerland LAKIN@LARGE Tel +41 (0)22 307 78 37 72 Times Square squared Fax +41 (0)22 300 37 48 www.europastar.com [email protected] © 2013 EUROPA STAR DIGITAL-LUXURY.COM Audited REMP / FRP 2012 WORLDWATCHREPORT.COM The statements and opinions media partner expressed in this publication are those of the authors and not necessarily Europa Star. THE EVOLUTION OF TRADITION LOGICAL ONE BASELWORLD Hall 2.0 Booth C35 2013 www.romaingauthier.com SEIZE THE MOMENT, CARRY A BOMBERG WATCH CASE**cc_dXbWYaiWdZXbWij[ZFL:rC_d[hWbYhoijWbm_j^Wdj_#h[ƚ[Yj_l[YeWj_d]r9Wi[XWYaiYh[m[Z Zemd_dXbWYaiWdZXbWij[ZFL:rMWj[hh[i_ijWdY[0'&7JCDIAL AND HANDS Metal dial black with black dial plate, fh_dj_dm^_j[rD_Ya[b^WdZim_j^bkc_delWr:WoZWj[MOVEMENT 9^hede]hWf^C_oejWEI''STRAP AND BUCKLE 8bWYab[Wj^[hijhWfijWdZWhZ^eb[im_j^XbWYaij_jY^_d]8bWYaFL:XkYab[ REF. NO: NS44CHPBA.BA0.3.LBA SEIZE THE MOMENT BOMBERG.CH CoverStory113_CoverStory113 14.02.13 14:14 Page2 12 COVER STORY europa star Ralph Lauren’s watchmaking safari RPaul O’Neil The presence ofTRalph Lauren Watch & Jewelry at this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva marked a certain coming of age for the brand. As the company’s chairman, Callum Barton, explained, “We are four years old and the average age of the other brands at the show is 98 years. We celebrate our fifth birthday at the SIHH and it is the first time you can see products in the show windows outside the booth, now that the brand can walk and talk.” And now that the brand can walk and talk it already wants to stretch its legs and head off on… safari! Parked centre stage in the typical colonial décor of the Ralph Lauren booth in Geneva this year was the designer’s own vin- tage Land Rover, equipped for an expedition into the African wilderness, leaving one eager to discover the new timepieces inspired by RL67 SAFARI CHRONOMETER this world of safari, to which the designer dedicated his first fashion collection almost The Safari collection The RL67 Safari chronograph adheres rigor- 30 years ago. The RL67 Safari chronometer epitomises the ously to the same safari aesthetic but takes classic simplicity of Ralph Lauren design but its dial from the brand’s Sporting collection, According to Ralph Lauren, “When you go on with an added touch of durability. Its 45mm using a matte black varnished background safari you think it’s a special moment in your diameter gunmetal case, with visible screws with contrasting white Roman numerals and life. You will always talk about it.
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