THE WORLD’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH MAGAZINE EUROPE www.europastar.com

IMPRESSIONS FROM EUROPE EDITION

All Europe Central & Eastern Europe, Russia THE GENEVA SHOWS N° 317 1 /2013 Feb. / March 0 2 SIHH | GTE | Exhibitions 1 9 7 7 0 0 1 4 2 6 0 0 0 4 First BaselWorld previews Service, please! CHF12 / €10 / US$12

FLYING TOURBILLON High feminine complication, this flying tourbillon decorated with the motif of the camellia, a tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel’s favorite flower, beats away discreetly and almost secretly at the heart of the Première watch. Having no upper bridge, the carriage decorated with a camellia appears to be rotating in a weightless state. Limited edition of 20 numbered pieces. 18-carat white gold, set with 228 diamonds (~7.7 carats).

www.chanel.com

Editorial113_Editorial113 14.02.13 14:18 Page2

4 EDITORIAL europa star

The lament of those who are drowning

R Pierre M. Maillard Editor-in-Chief

The refrain is well known. It has been sung in these columns on several occa- sions, but now it has really become stuck in the mind. The refrain? The lament, more like, is that of the small indepen- dent companies that are drowning. On one hand, you find a modest but quite honourable brand that, after ten years of efforts, finds doors closing to it one by one. On the other hand, a single independent company, whose beauti- versity of the watch landscape is This evolution does not concern only ful and artfully enamelled products are inevitably declining. One by one, the the watch industry; it is widespread in no longer welcome at stores which are niches that provide the variety in the other sectors, too. It is, in fact, a reflec- already inundated with merchandise. watch industry are being occupied by tion of a much more general phenom- Here and there, small yet very innova- the big groups. But how can we blame enon in society. In other more political tive companies are closing their doors; them? Why should they restrain them- times, we called this “imperialism”, investors are giving up and vanishing selves when everything, beginning with the “natural” tendency of the big to into thin air.Recently,an open letter was their shareholder structure,pushes them grow even bigger, of the propensity of received at the editor’s desk, from an to make a profit at any cost, while a kingdoms to become “empires”. “independent family business” stand- silent war rages in the display windows. Having said that, however, there are ing up for its “right to exist without So, how then can a small watch com- some counter-attacks happening here being constantly threatened by an atti- pany specialising, for example, in the and there. Initiatives are being launch- tude of short-term profit and unre- métiers d'art survive—or even simply ed, groups are being formed. In other strained capitalism (…) and by devas- succeed in placing a few products that words, life goes on, always confound- tating pressure on distribution (…), it transports in a rowboat, while nearby ing predictions. But let’s be attentive which will result in less choice.” This the big groups arrive in aircraft carri- to this general increase in hostilities same company pleads, loud and clear, ers loaded with pallets of high-end and to this race ahead, because they for the “re-establishment of healthy watches? may be the warning signs of a major competitive practices for the better- Another concern relating to watch- new bubble. ment of the industry and in the inter- making biodiversity is that the daz- est of the final consumer,” before con- zling numbers barely conceal a reality cluding that “without this awareness, that, over time, is indeed worrisome: it will be more and more difficult to the decrease in volume (down 15.3 bring to our wonderful industry the per cent in December 2012, down 2.7 freshness of sensible alternatives.” per cent for the year) accompanied by Behind the triumphant numbers of the an increase in value (up 11.3 per cent year—for the first time, the Swiss for the year). This means quite simply watch industry exceeded the threshold that fewer watches are being sold, but of CHF 21 billion at export—the biodi- at higher prices. A SWISS HISTORY OF TIME

Perpetual calendar, every possible date complication, fl yback chronograph function and tachymeter scale – the complexity and functionality of the Manero ChronoPerpetual are hard to match. An impressive timepiece, whose date will require no correction until the year 2100, when the Gregorian calendar calls for the omission of a leap year.

www.carl-f-bucherer.com

112_0044_ChronoPerp_Europa.indd2_0044_ChronoPerp_Europa.indd 1 4466 115.11.125.11.12 110:480:48 for the new emperors

Boutique DeWitt Montres DeWitt SA DeWitt America Shop 2036 Level 2 Elements, Rue du Pré-de-la-Fontaine 2, 4330 N.E 2nd Avenue 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon, Hong Kong 1217 Meyrin, Geneva, Switzerland Miami FL 33137, USA (+852) 31532668 +41 22 750 97 97 +1.305.572.9812 [email protected] [email protected] - www.dewitt.ch [email protected]

Print_Dble Ad_410x265_CH_2013.indd 1 revolutionary by tradition

04.02.13 17:00 Sommaire113_Sommaire113 27.02.13 07:34 Page2

8 CONTENTS europa star

THE WORLD’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH MAGAZINE EUROPE www.europastar.com

N° 317 1/2013 FEB./MARCH

EDITORIAL 4 The lament of those who are drowning

COVER STORY RL67 TOURBILLON 12 Ralph Lauren’s watchmaking safari by Ralph Lauren The first tourbillon presented by Ralph Lauren has a 45mm diam- GENEVA SHOWS eter stainless steel case that has 16 Introduction: Under the sign of Midas been treated with a gunmetal 18 Strategic métiers d’art finish. It is powered by the self- 23 High-tech materials and movements winding RL67 manufacture tour- 27 The IDTWO concept watch by Cartier billon calibre, which offers a pow- 28 The year of butterflies and eagles er reserve of approximately 38 32 Surrounding the SIHH: Space stations and satellites hours and is driven by a gold CONNECTING 40 All change for the Geneva Time Exhibition micro-rotor that is visible behind 45 A (show) week in the life of a retailer a transparent sapphire crystal ICONIC case back. It comes with a brown alligator leather strap that has BRANDS PRE-BASEL been treated to give it a special TO THEIR 49 Raymond Weil, just the right positioning patina. 51 JeanRichard - a new philosophy of life CLIENTELE 56 The new BaselWorld ONLINE RALPH LAUREN GALLERIES Watch and Jewelry 24, route de la Galaise 58 Pre-Basel – gents’ watches CH – 1228 Plan-les-Ouates 59 Pre-Basel – ladies’ watches Tel: +41 (0) 22 595 59 00 www.ralphlaurenwatches.com SERVICE, PLEASE! 60 Patek Philippe: patrimonial service 62 Stoll & Company, America’s Watchmakers

RETAILER PROFILE 66 Talking Turkey – Saat & Saat in Istanbul

WORLDWATCHWEB® 68 Global consumer interest for haute horlogerie brands increases Europa Star HBM SA 25 Route des Acacias 70 EDITORIAL AND ADVERTISERS’ INDEX P.O. Box 1355 CH-1211 Geneva 26 Switzerland LAKIN@LARGE Tel +41 (0)22 307 78 37 72 Times Square squared Fax +41 (0)22 300 37 48 www.europastar.com [email protected] © 2013 EUROPA STAR DIGITAL-LUXURY.COM Audited REMP / FRP 2012 WORLDWATCHREPORT.COM The statements and opinions media partner expressed in this publication are those of the authors and not necessarily Europa Star. THE EVOLUTION OF TRADITION

LOGICAL ONE

BASELWORLD Hall 2.0 Booth C35 2013

www.romaingauthier.com SEIZE THE MOMENT, CARRY A BOMBERG

WATCH CASE**cc_dXbWYaiWdZXbWij[ZFL:rC_d[hWbYhoijWbm_j^Wdj_#h[ƚ[Yj_l[YeWj_d]r9Wi[XWYaiYh[m[Z Zemd_dXbWYaiWdZXbWij[ZFL:rMWj[hh[i_ijWdY[0'&7JCDIAL AND HANDS Metal dial black with black dial plate, fh_dj_dm^_j[rD_Ya[b^WdZim_j^bkc_delWr:WoZWj[MOVEMENT 9^hede]hWf^C_oejWEI''STRAP AND BUCKLE 8bWYab[Wj^[hijhWfijWdZWhZ^eb[im_j^XbWYaij_jY^_d]8bWYaFL:XkYab[

REF. NO: NS44CHPBA.BA0.3.LBA SEIZE THE MOMENT

BOMBERG.CH CoverStory113_CoverStory113 14.02.13 14:14 Page2

12 COVER STORY europa star

Ralph Lauren’s watchmaking safari

RPaul O’Neil

The presence ofTRalph Lauren Watch & Jewelry at this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva marked a certain coming of age for the brand. As the company’s chairman, Callum Barton, explained, “We are four years old and the average age of the other brands at the show is 98 years. We celebrate our fifth birthday at the SIHH and it is the first time you can see products in the show windows outside the booth, now that the brand can walk and talk.”

And now that the brand can walk and talk it already wants to stretch its legs and head off on… safari! Parked centre stage in the typical colonial décor of the Ralph Lauren booth in Geneva this year was the designer’s own vin- tage Land Rover, equipped for an expedition into the African wilderness, leaving one eager

to discover the new timepieces inspired by RL67 SAFARI CHRONOMETER this world of safari, to which the designer dedicated his first fashion collection almost The Safari collection The RL67 Safari chronograph adheres rigor- 30 years ago. The RL67 Safari chronometer epitomises the ously to the same safari aesthetic but takes classic simplicity of Ralph Lauren design but its dial from the brand’s Sporting collection, According to Ralph Lauren, “When you go on with an added touch of durability. Its 45mm using a matte black varnished background safari you think it’s a special moment in your diameter gunmetal case, with visible screws with contrasting white Roman numerals and life. You will always talk about it. There is a on the bezel, houses a sober matte varnished chronograph counters at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, utility and sensibility about it that works.” In azure anthracite dial with large Arabic numer- as well as a date window at 6 o’clock. It is fit- fact, the designer has almost made an art out als coated with a beige luminescent sub- ted with the RL750 chronograph movement, of adding a touch of luxury to the functional stance reminiscent of the desert sands, with which is a self-winding manufacture calibre. clothing required for tracking down wildlife an oversize 12 and 6 and a simple “RALPH Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, the on the open plains. Now he turns his atten- LAUREN – CHRONOMETER” inscription. The RL750 offers a power reserve of around 48 tion to making the watches that bear his orange sweep seconds hand, for clear legi- hours and has Côtes de Genève and circular name fit for African exploration. It is above all bility, is the only small break in the rigidly graining decoration that is visible through a the utilitarian aspect that comes forth in the applied safari design code. Well protected smoked sapphire crystal case back fixed in watches, expressed by a rugged design and inside this tough exterior is the RL300-1 cali- place with six screws. In addition to the same the use of a new treatment for the cases that bre self-winding movement with chronometer 45mm case size as the chronometer, the RL67 recreates the unique black sheen of gunmetal certification and a power reserve of approxi- Safari chronograph is also available in a smaller familiar from old hunting rifles. mately 42 hours. 39mm diameter case. CoverStory113_CoverStory113 14.02.13 14:15 Page3

europa star COVER STORY 13

In combination with the gunmetal case colour HOW THE GUNMETAL LOOK IS ACHIEVED for both models, a weathered olive-green can- As the name suggests, gunmetal was originally used in the man- vas strap is perhaps the boldest affirmation of ufacture of cannons in medieval times (although it had been in this collection’s safari credentials. Reinforced use before this) and later in other ordnance. Steel is now the met- al of choice for ordnance but gunmetal is still used today for with a black leather lining, this material evokes valves, pipe fittings and pumps that need to be pressure tight. Ralph Lauren’s pioneering collection of safari Known as red brass in the United States, gunmetal is actually a type of bronze—an alloy of copper, tin and zinc. clothing that spawned the term “safari chic” 1. For the Ralph Lauren Safari timepieces, the appearance of gun- and pre-empted the trend for casual safari metal is achieved using a chemical and thermal treatment. Unlike clothing subsequently triggered by the film surface treatment processes such as PVD, DLC and ADLC, which are now widely used in the watch industry and involve purely “Out of Africa”. physical processes to deposit a thin layer of coating on the host metal, the process used by Ralph Lauren to make the gunmetal A first tourbillon case for the Safari collection has both chemical and thermal com- ponents. In addition to the aesthetic enhancement this brings to Those looking for a less casual accompani- the timepiece, it also makes the steel harder than a conventional ment for their safari attire can opt for the jux- stainless-steel watch case and thus increases its durability. It is applied to the case, bezel, crown, buckle, pushers and screws of 2. taposition of a delicate tourbillon movement the watches in the Ralph Lauren Safari collection. housed in the same 45mm diameter gunmetal

1. First, the watch case and its components are sandblasted and case. The self-winding RL67 calibre is the first microblasted by hand using an air pistol, which gives the piece a tourbillon movement to feature in the Ralph deep matte grey finish. Lauren collection and also the first to be dri- 2.The gunmetal treatment is applied both chemically and thermally, transforming the silver colour of the steel into a blackened finish. ven by a gold micro-rotor, visible through a 3. The case is then brushed and polished using a range of spe- transparent sapphire crystal case back. This cialised brushes and diamond pastes. manufacture movement operates at 28,800 3. vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve

RL67 SAFARI CHRONOGRAPH RL67 SAFARI TOURBILLON CoverStory113_CoverStory113 14.02.13 14:15 Page4

14 COVER STORY europa star

of approximately 38 hours. It also features a At 2,500 US dollars it retails for a fraction of 867 Diamond Watch. Here, the sleek 27.5mm specially designed tourbillon bridge that has the cost of its sparkling colleague. A range of square art deco case in polished 18-carat white a finish to match the sheen of the gunmetal eight new colourful leather straps is also gold has a bezel set with diamonds as well as case. Although the time is displayed on the available for the Stirrup collection. diamond-set arabesque motifs that continue same sober matte black dial with the desert- Diamonds are also the order of the day in the along the black suede strap, for a total of 280 inspired luminescent beige Roman numer- 867 collection, the latest model in which (and stones. A further 12 baguette-cut diamonds als and sword-shaped hands, the rugged can- one of the most lavish in the entire Ralph adorn the signature square design elements vas strap has been replaced by a more Lauren collection) is called quite simply the on the case at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock and refined brown alligator leather strap, which is hand made using honey wax soap to give a STIRRUP DIAMOND LINK STIRRUP STEEL LINK special patina.

Ladies’ jewellery pieces The strong focus on the world of safari, in which Ralph Lauren can claim the greatest of legitimacy, is oriented towards the male cus- tomer as far as the brand’s timepieces are concerned. But at the more exclusive end of the spectrum, Ralph Lauren has also intro- duced a trio of stunning ladies’ jewellery models for 2013. The Stirrup collection now includes a jewellery piece, the Stirrup Diamond Link, which is adorned with 1,911 diamonds of 20 different sizes for a staggering total of around 35.58 carats. The entire case, measur- ing 32.40mm by 34.30mm, as well as the chain-link bracelet—all in 18-carat white gold—are set with diamonds.The crown, also in 18-carat white gold, is set with a rose-cut diamond of 0.38 carats. Set against this sparkling background, the dial remains the epitome of Ralph Lauren classicism, with black Roman numerals and a black railway minute track set against an off-white lacquered and polished background. The impulses driving the small seconds hand at 6 o’clock come from the self-winding mechanical RL701 manufac- ture calibre, which operates at 28,800 vibra- tions per hour and offers a power reserve of around 70 hours. As a perfect balance, this model, available for 220,000 US dollars, was presented alongside the Stirrup Steel Link model, which is the first Stirrup model to be proposed with a polished stainless-steel case and the same matching chain-link bracelet in polished stainless steel. CoverStory113_CoverStory113 14.02.13 14:15 Page5

europa star COVER STORY 15

“I have always been inspired by the design elements of the art deco era. For me, its bold geo- metric spirit and sophisticated modernity define a kind of glamour that is timeless and especially elegant when applied to the art of watchmaking.” Ralph Lauren

the ornate folding clasp. In a modern interpre- tation of the art deco style, the silver opaline dial bears a combination of black Roman and Arabic numerals (outsized Roman numerals for the quarter hours and smaller Arabic numerals for the other hours) and the black suede strap framing the whole helps this striking design to stand out, leaving no mistake as to the art deco inspiration behind this piece.

Another new model in the 867 collection has a similar “face” but employs even more art deco design codes, marrying the classic art deco colours of black and white with the column designs familiar from the architecture of the world’s most iconic art deco buildings (one of the most famous of which is the Empire State Building, a landmark in Ralph Lauren’s native New York city). The 867 Modern Art Deco 867 DIAMOND WATCH 867 MODERN ART DECO WATCH watch has an 18-carat rose-gold case set with one row of diamonds and an inner frame in Both new 867 models are powered by the With the Safari collection and the new ladies’ black resin. The signature square elements on RL430 calibre manually-wound manufac- models, Ralph Lauren has once again proven the case at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock are each ture movement, which operates at 21,600 capable of successfully combining the rigor- set with nine diamonds and enclosed by the vibrations per hour, offers a power reserve of ously timeless designs and high-quality crafts- shimmer of black onyx semi-circles set into the approximately 40 hours and a fine decorative manship of its timepieces with highly individ- black alligator leather strap above and below, finish of Côtes de Genève and circular grain- ual themes such as safari that are ingrained in each of which points towards a white ceramic ing. Like the Stirrup Diamond Link, both of the Ralph Lauren brand. O column flanked by six diamond-set columns, a these models also offer the ultimate touch of For more information about Ralph Lauren please design element that is repeated on the 18- luxury with a rose-cut diamond set into their click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com carat rose-gold folding clasp. gold crowns. or visit www.ralphlaurenwatches.com Intro_SIHH113_Intro612_2 14.02.13 14:20 Page2

16 SIHH IMPRESSIONS – INTRODUCTION europa star

UNDER THE SIGN OF MIDAS

RPierre Maillard of hunger. Begging the god to remove this wish, he was sent to wash his hands in the river Pactolus (which ever since, as we know, abounds with flakes of gold).

Is the Midas touch now affecting Haute Horlogerie? Could it end up suffocating under its own weight in gold? We can rightly ask this ques- On the second day of the SIHOH, thinking about all the watches that had tion, just as we can justifiably wonder if we are not again witnessing passed through my hands that day, I noted that the most affordable the birth of a new bubble… among them was selling for €40,000, or the price of a nice car such as a German saloon, for example. As for the most expensive, it is true that Yet, we might also say that it is, for the most part, merely a media it was totally covered in diamonds, but I was not able to learn its exact effect. To the more than 1200 accredited journalists present at the price. When I asked the question, I was told in a delightful tone that it SIHH, it is normal that the brands would want to show off the cream of had a “prestigious price tag” (the equivalent, I imagined, of a beauti- their crop. Diamond-covered watches, mechanical follies and exercises ful home with a garden and swimming pool, complete with a sports in style followed one after the other before our amazed eyes. At the car in the garage). end of the day, however, is this what really counts? These timepieces, with all their excesses, are at the top of the ladder and are covered and And, that day, I also could not help but think of the decadence of the discussed ad infinitum. They swarm across the great virtual web where Roman empire and of the follies of Heliogabalus, driving his golden they create the buzz, but is this really where the business is? Don’t we chariot drawn by four white horses through the streets of Rome sprin- find the bread and butter of the industry elsewhere? Rather than only kled with gold dust. concentrated in the hands of Midas, isn’t it to be found in a thousand more modest slivers in the waters of the Pactolus? We all know the famous legend of King Midas who asked the god Dionysos to grant his wish of changing everything he touched into Whatever the case, we have borrowed several treasures from Midas gold. The king’s good fortune turned to disaster, however, as all his while also plucking a few more modest nuggets from the river, all of food changed to gold at his touch and the poor man would soon die which we present to you on the following pages. O Automatic movement • Multi-part and multi-layer construction case Polished and vertically satin-fi nished stainless steel case • Water-resistant to 100 m Black vertically satin-fi nished dial • Applied luminescent indexes • Rhodium-coated hands with luminescent material • Case-back screw-down, engraved • Polished and satin-fi nished stainless steel bracelet • Stainless steel butterfl y buckle terrascope jeanrichard.com

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18 SIHH IMPRESSIONS europa star

Strategic métiers d'art

RPierre Maillard of some of its exploits. Mechanical timekeep- different techniques under the banner “Wild ing is nearly a Métier d'Art, and its chrono- Colours of Cartier”. Among them are several metric utility is sometimes inversely propor- rare skills, such as micro-engraving (five small tional to its complexity, giving the impression panthers chase each other on the dial), cameos that the mechanical has become decorative in carved in agate, grisaille enamelling, plique-à- and of itself. Yet, from this level to the merely jour enamelling and even Etruscan granula- If we could retain Ionly one main thematic gratuitous is sometimes only a small step. tion. Rarely used, this decorative technique trend seen during the SIHH in Geneva, we would Let’s talk specifically about a few of these was practiced by the Etruscans in the middle have to choose “métiers d’art” (artisanal craft pieces, although we will not, however, neglect of the 8th century BC, before being replaced skills). Never have art and artisanal crafts been other propositions, those which may be less by stamping. Granulation consists of heat sol- featured so prominently as they were during notable on the outside but whose inner work- dering tiny gold balls with differing diameters, this recent show: enamel in all its forms, minia- ings may be superior. obtained from a gold wire, onto a pre-engraved ture painting, stone-setting, several rare crafts dial. In all, 3,800 minuscule gold balls make such as marquetry with straw, hard stones, and Cartier’s impressive war machine up the portrait of a panther. It is really quite mosaics, miniature sculpture on mother-of- With a total turnover largely exceeding CHF 4 amazing. It is also quite rare when we realise pearl, and Etruscan granulation. Even more billion (of which watchmaking alone accounts that only one person at Cartier has the skills and remarkable, we are witnessing a fusion of these for 40 per cent), Cartier is the undisputed flag- expertise to realise such a decorative exploit. different techniques, with examples, among ship of the Richemont Group. A veritable war We find this same decorative appetite on the others, of miniature painting on sculpted machine, Cartier made a very impressive show haute horlogerie side of Cartier. Here, however, mother-of-pearl. of force this year. And, it has branched out in the amazing movement is what attracts all the Another important and notable observation is all directions: high jewellery, fine mechanical, attention. In this case, we are talking about that the mechanical revolution seems to still revisited icons and métiers d'art. the remarkable Rotonde de Cartier Double have a bright future ahead of it, even if we In the métiers d'art category, the Paris house Tourbillon Mystérieux. Like levitation in a void, can sometimes wonder about the relevance presented nine pieces, bringing together eight the carriage of this flying double tourbillon

ROTONDE DE CARTIER PANTHÈRE EN GRANULATION ROTONDE DE CARTIER DOUBLE TOURBILLON MYSTÉRIEUX ROTONDE DE CARTIER MYSTÉRIEUSE Art.SIHH_Pierre113_Art.SIHH_Pierre113 14.02.13 13:59 Page3

europa star SIHH IMPRESSIONS 19

EXTRAORDINARY DIAL by Van Cleef & Arpels LADY ARPELS ENCHANTED BALLERINA by Van Cleef & Arpels

makes an aerial ballet in two time frames: one Her tutu rises up in two sections, first on one Patrimony Traditionnelle and Malte have thus complete revolution on its own axis in one min- side to indicate the hours and then on the expanded with new timepieces. Very fine ute and a second rotation in five minutes. With other side to show the minutes before they workmanship in design and finishing, harmo- no apparent connection or gearing, the carriage both simultaneously move down again. This nious sizes, the highest respect for watchmak- is moved along on a sapphire disc to which it delicate manner to tell the time is activated ing codes, stone-setting ranging from a circle is attached. The illusion is perfect. We find it on demand using a push-piece located at 8 of stones on the bezel to the most spectacular again in a simpler form with very pure lines in o’clock. This “Poetic Complication” (an expres- full setting, and new manual and automatic the Rotonde de Cartier Mystérieuse, where the sion trademarked by the brand) was devel- hour and minute hands float in the void. oped by watchmakers at La Fabrique du Temps, an entity, we might add in passing, that was "Poetic Complications™" recently acquired by LVMH. If at Cartier, the favourite phrase is "Fabulous Hours", the term this year at Van Cleef & Arpels The Temple of Flora is "Extraordinary Dials", featuring a hunt for If butterflies, kites and tutus have invaded the butterflies and flying kites. For this pastoral dials at Van Cleef & Arpels, it is the floral motif adventure, enamel in all its forms was used— that is dominant at Vacheron Constantin. A champlevé, extended champlevé, paillonné noteworthy point this year is that the Geneva (on a base of gold foil and translucent enamel), manufacture has decided to devote its entire plique-à-jour (stained-glass effect), cabochon collection of new watches to ladies. This devo- (non polished, in volume)—as well as coloured tion is not new, however, since the first wrist- mother-of-pearl, sculpture on mother-of-pearl, watch for ladies created by Vacheron Constantin marquetry with lapis lazuli, miniature paint- dates back to 1889 (although its first ladies’ ing, micro-sculpture on gold, guillochage, and pocket watches go back to 1810). stone-setting. This feminisation of the Vacheron Constantin This rich panoply finds its most advanced offer essentially rests on a series of known mechanical expression in the Lady Arpels models that have been revisited and set with Enchanted Ballerina. The beautiful ballerina is diamonds, yet always involving the greatest animated by a double retrograde movement. stylistic purity. The Patrimony Contemporaine, CHINA LIMODRON ENAMEL by Vacheron Constantin Art.SIHH_Pierre113_Art.SIHH_Pierre113 14.02.13 13:59 Page4

20 SIHH IMPRESSIONS europa star

FLORILÈGE by Vacheron Constantin

Tonda Woodstock. A real success, we encounter this type of very contemporary and “pop” attitude very rarely in the hallowed halls of haute horlogerie.

The fingers of Yohan Blake Upsetting conventions and proposing unusual forms, to the point of provocation, is a trade- mark of Richard Mille. The underlying interest in his approach is to unify the mechanical and the design, combining them in such a way that the decorative aspect is derived directly from the mechanical techniques. In this respect, his most amazing proposition is dedicated to one of the fastest men on earth, Yohan Blake. The Jamaican sprinter habitually sets off with his hands out front, fingers spread open and straight. This distinctive sign as well movements that are certified by the new ver- work marvellously with a more contemporary as the colours of his country are found in the sion of the Geneva Hallmark (meaning that visual aspect. architecture of the RM 59-01 Tourbillon Yohan the control is completed by an operational At the SIHH this year, only Parmigiani pro- Blake. Blake’s “fingers” are the functional check of each encased movement) all come posed a contemporary approach, in this case, aerodynamic bridges—machined in an alloy together to meet the stated goal of “having cubist, with dials made of wood marquetry of aluminium, magnesium, silicon and lead— ladies’ models with the same reputation as evoking rock guitars whose rosette comprised whose colour is obtained by anodic oxidation. the men’s watches.” a tourbillon: the Tonda Woodrock and the The surprisingly transparent case of the RM Another feminine collection involving the métiers d’art this year takes the name of "Florilège". Inspired by illustrations in the book "The Temple of Flora" by English botanist Robert John Thornton, published in 1799, three distinct floral motifs involve enamelling, guillochage, and stone-setting. It must be said that the Geneva brand has mastered, like few others, the delicate play on coloured trans- parencies that arise from the alliance between extremely subtle guillochage and grand feu cloisonné enamel.

Cubist rock guitars In the various examples cited above, the inspi- ration has come largely from the traditional natural world—animals, butterflies, and flow- ers. Yet, as Vacheron Constantin demonstrated last year with its collection inspired by Escher’s geometric games, as well as the example given by Hermès, the most traditional métiers d’art TONDA WOODSTOCK and TONDA WOODROCK by Parmigiani Fleurier Appreciate the extraordinary MASTER SERIES

www.titoni.ch

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22 SIHH IMPRESSIONS europa star

RM59-01 by Richard Mille RM56-01 by Richard Mille

of the regulating organs, a first prototype was presented in Basel in 2009, but it comprised two balances superimposed and inclined at 20°. In this final version, they are inclined at 35° and are no longer superimposed, but positioned in two distinctly different spaces. The improvement in chronometry is notable. The two oscillators are linked by a spherical differential that, serving as the third wheel, “divides the margin of error in half”. In addi- tion, the inclination at 35° minimises the per- turbations caused by a stable horizontal or vertical position. The architecture of the piece is thus com- pletely dependent upon the technical require- ments. Thus, all the aesthetic considerations at Greubel Forsey are derived directly from chronometric research. The result is an absol- 59-01 is made from a composite injected with to move towards better chronometric preci- utely remarkable coherence that breaks down carbon nanotubes, which makes it both very sion (rewarded by first prize at the Interna- the barriers between the technical and the light and two hundred per cent stronger than tional Chronometry Competition in 2011). aesthetic. O steel. The remarkable asymmetrical and elon- This year, the two creators presented the Sixth gated form is completely ergonomic and is the Invention Piece in the totally original form of To discover other propositions and brands, perfect tourbillon for a hundred-metre sprint. a 35° Double Balance. The result of research see the articles in this issue by Paul O'Neil and Another remarkable tourbillon at Richard Mille started in 1999 and involving the inclination Malcolm Lakin. is the RM 56-01. Here, the bezel, middle case and case back are made from blocks of sap- phire, thus showing off the movement in all its glory. In addition, the dial, base plate, cen- tral bridge and small third wheel are also made of sapphire crystal. This must be classified as a new ultra-contemporary "Métier d'Art" when you consider that the machining, grinding, and polishing of the sapphire ensemble requires no less than 1,000 hours of work.

When the aesthetic is born from chronometric research The approach of Greubel Forsey is radically different from that of Richard Mille, but the two creators are similar in another respect: in both cases, it is the mechanical that dictates the aesthetic expression. Unlike some other watch brands, which seek above all to create a spectacle, Greubel Forsey’s approach is purely horological in nature. Its goal is always DOUBLE BALANCIER 35° by Greubel Forsey 

europa star SIHH IMPRESSIONS 23

High-tech materials and movements

RPaul O’Neil offers new Luminor Submersible 1950 models that they can understand all the time and in ceramic and bronze. work that goes into the piece.” The Quatuor is also available as a more affordable limited The watch industry has already discovered the edition of 88 pieces in gold for CHF 380,000. virtues of silicon (or “silicium” if you prefer the heavily Frenchified translation of many watch Why settle for a titanium watch when you can brands) for use in watch components. But now get the new IWC Ingenieur Perpetual There was a profuTsion of models illustrating Roger Dubuis has taken things a step further Calendar with digital date and month in the the skills in métiers d’art mastered in-house by presenting a new piece whose case is made lighter and more resistant titanium aluminide by various brands at the SIHH. But such tradi- entirely out of silicon in the spectacular new alloy? As a material taken directly from Formula tional crafts cannot be so easily assimilated by 48mm Excalibur Quatuor. One of the talking 1 motorsport, this may just be a first hint at other names from the high-end watchmaking pieces of the SIHH, this new model not only the potential fruits of IWC’s new engineering fraternity represented at the show. So in this has the first case in silicon but also features a partnership with the Mercedes-AMG Petronas report we present some of the more high-tech brand-new movement with 590 components Formula 1 team. Carbon, titanium and ceramic trends in materials and movements, as well as and no less than four individual balances that also feature heavily in the totally revamped the latest offerings in classic diamond watches redefine the traditional ticking of a watch. Only Ingenieur collection for 2013, alongside the for ladies, concluding with a brief outlook for three pieces will be available, at a cost of CHF more traditional and noble platinum used for the coming twelve months. 1 million. But as Roger Dubuis's CEO Jean-Marc the case of the flagship Ingenieur Constant Pontroué explained to Europa Star, “If we were Force Tourbillon. New materials to choose a price that reflected the work that High-resistance materials such as carbon and actually goes into the piece it would be a lot Among all these exotic materials, which are ceramic are still being used to freshen up exist- more. This is why we do not even sell this in our harder than steel and much more difficult to ing collections, as evidenced by the first Royal own boutiques but instead via a visit to the machine as a result, it’s worth sparing a thought Oak models in ceramic from Audemars Piguet manufacture, where we pay for the customer for the humble watch strap, which represented and a contemporary-styled pocket watch in to fly into Geneva, visit the factory and spend one of the biggest design challenges of this matt ceramic by Officine Panerai, which also time with our designers and watchmakers so new collection for Christian Knoop, IWC’s

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE DIVER by Audemars Piguet EXCALIBUR QUATUOR SILICIUM by Roger Dubuis INGENIEUR PERPETUAL CALENDAR by IWC 

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GRAND COMPLICATION by A. Lange & Söhne TRADITION TOURBILLON by Audemars Piguet EXCALIBUR DOUBLE TOURBILLON SKELETON by Roger Dubuis

Associate Director, Creative Center. “The strap the going train and offers a power reserve of ing of two colours, black and blue, represent- can make or break the design of a watch,” he 30 hours. The manually-wound calibre L1902 ing day and night. Using a Maltese cross and told Europa Star. “I remember products where required seven years of development and a system of cams, this day/night disc only we did 15 or 20 prototypes of a strap before takes a watchmaker one year to build before begins to mesh with the movement at 3am or we found the final colour and execution. The it is encased in its 50mm pink-gold case with 3pm, after which its speed of rotation gradu- new straps that we designed for the Ingenieur, a five-part enamel dial. ally increases until it is synchronous with the with the construction of rubber and textile on twelve-hour disc. This unique system means top and the leather ones for the Silver Arrow Audemars Piguet presented a new minute- that it is not only possible to tell day-time or watches, required quite some development.” repeater in the Tradition line, whose large night-time hours at a glance, but also to see 47mm titanium case is designed to offer the the onset of day or night thanks to the gradual Mechanical innovations best possible acoustics for the minute repeater change in colour. A. Lange & Söhne had purists salivating with movement, which also features a tourbillon the host of new creations it presented in and chronograph and comprises 504 parts, Geneva and stole the limelight by presenting including 83 for the tourbillon alone. the most complicated and most expensive watch at the SIHH. Called quite simply the Roger Dubuis is the only manufacture to pro- Grand Complication, this horological marvel duce a skeleton double tourbillon. Its latest will be produced in a limited series of only six version in the revamped Excalibur collection pieces, each costing €1.92 million. uses a new 45mm Excalibur case that is 12 per cent thinner and is available in pink or So what do you get for this astronomical sum? white gold and as a limited edition of 188 in Grande and petite sonnerie, minute repeater, pink gold with a black ceramic bezel. split-seconds monopusher chronograph with seconde foudroyante (a “lightning” seconds An innovative new method of time display hand that can indicate elapsed times to one- was presented by Montblanc in the Nicolas fifth of a second), a moon phase and a per- Rieussec chronograph line with the “Rising petual calendar with instantaneous change of Hours” chronograph, which reinvents the jump- all the indications at midnight. Each of the ing hours display using two superimposed striking mechanisms has its own barrel for revolving discs. Arabic numerals are cut out of power, while a third barrel is used to power the top disc, beneath which is a disc consist- NICOLAS RIEUSSEC “RISING HOURS” by Montblanc 

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LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 by Officine Panerai ALTIPLANO by Piaget PÉTALES ENTRELACÉS by Montblanc

Combining both a new material and a new on an indicator visible through the transparent world’s thinnest self-winding movement with movement, Officine Panerai demonstrated its sapphire crystal case back. This is a limited edi- date housed in the world’s thinnest watch case watchmaking prowess at the SIHH with the tion of 50 pieces that will retail for €165,000. in this category and the world’s thinnest gem- launch of its first pocket watch. This contem- set self-winding skeleton watch. The calibre porary interpretation of a classic theme uses a In keeping with its nautical heritage, Panerai 1205P, the first calibre used in the Altiplano 59mm diameter matt black ceramic case and presented three new Luminor Submersible collection to feature a date, measures just 3mm chain and is fitted with a skeletonised hand- 1950 models in the 47mm case diameter, in thickness and is housed inside a case that wound Panerai P.2005/S tourbillon calibre water resistant to 300 metres and with the is only 6.36mm thick. The calibre 1200D in the whose black galvanic treatment blends in per- distinctive case materials of bronze, black gem-set version is the same thickness, but its fectly with the case. Three barrels ensure a ceramic, as well as a titanium version that is case is even thinner at 6.10mm. power reserve of six days, which can be checked water resistant to a depth of 2,500 metres. Diamonds are still The latest incarnation in Parmigiani’s ground- a girl’s best friend breaking Bugatti line is the Super Sport in red Despite the great efforts being invested in the gold, named after the 1,200 horsepower mon- metiers d’art, nothing can beat the lasting ster manufactured by the Volkswagen sub- appeal of diamonds on a watch for ladies. The sidiary in Alsace. The unique transversally most important consideration here is to cre- mounted hand-wound PF372 calibre with 10- ate a design that will allow the maximum day power reserve that powers the timepiece flexibility for different types of setting using is constructed on two planes. This means that different diamond cuts. the time display is set at 90 degrees to the balance and escape wheel bridges (visible on Montblanc has, for example, enhanced its the top of the watch), which are arranged in Princesse Grace de Monaco collection with a an arc reminiscent of the Bugatti oval. This 34mm case that has an elliptical bezel and limited edition of 30 pieces comes with a interior flange that lend themselves perfectly to bespoke Hermès alligator leather strap. various types of stone setting. The sumptuous “Pétales Entrelacés” model in 18-carat red gold Piaget reasserted its position as world-leader illustrates this perfectly, with its 355 diamonds in the production of ultra-thin movements by of different cuts, including 44 baguette dia- BUGATTI SUPER SPORT by Parmigiani Fleurier presenting two new “double records”, for the monds on the bezel, 130 brilliant-cut stones Art.SIHH_Paul113_Art.SIHH_Paul113 14.02.13 13:54 Page5

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LIMELIGHT GALA by Piaget PERSHING CBF by Parmigiani Fleurier TRANSFORMA CBF by Parmigiani Fleurier

on the flange and a further 168 brilliant-cut it’s clear that each of the brands present at can be used as a wristwatch, pocket watch or diamonds on the red-gold link bracelet that the SIHH is pursuing its own individual strat- table clock. gives the watch its name. egy with different objectives. On the whole, though, the feedback from 2012 and the out- “In terms of value, the split between the sup- Aside from its expertise in ultra-thin movements, look for 2013 both seem positive. Although ply business and Parmigiani the brand is Piaget is renowned as a jeweller and has con- Georges Kern, CEO of IWC, provocatively about fifty-fifty,” Parmigiani’s CEO Jean-Marc siderable in-house gem-setting expertise. The said he “couldn’t care less” what the outlook Jacot explained to Europa Star. “But in terms brand launched a whole new ladies’ collec- was for 2013 during his round table on the of volume it’s much higher. I don’t want the tion that pays tribute to this, the Limelight Gala, opening day of the SIHH, other figures in the share of the components business to climb any at this year’s show. The new collection is avail- driving seat were more forthcoming. Roger higher than this. Obviously, we hope that our able with 32 or 38mm diameter cases in red Dubuis’s Jean-Marc Pontroué told Europa Star customers grow, but Parmigiani wants to grow or white gold and has extended lugs that that he was “reasonably optimistic” as far as too. We have an objective of 15 per cent growth curve downwards on the right-hand side and the coming twelve months are concerned. per year and we can’t go much above this upwards on the left-hand side of the case to “We have launched three new families over because all the finishing is done by hand.” blend in harmoniously with the integrated the past three years, the Monégasque, the strap. The bezel and lugs offer the perfect can- Pulsion and Velvet,” he said, “so 2013 repre- “History has shown that the work we have done vas for Piaget to show off its diamond-setting sents the first relatively calm year where we over the past twelve years to build up our pro- expertise and the dial is available in a classic get back to the roots of the brand and one of duction capacity has been worthwhile, thanks in silvered form with black Roman numerals or its iconic products.” no small part to Mr Hayek. I say this because the fully paved with up to 336 brilliant-cut dia- brands which have been cut off by the Swatch monds. A fully-paved integrated gold bracelet At Parmigiani, things couldn’t be rosier. Looking Group have turned to us. We are able to produce is also available and versions fully paved with to capitalise on the forthcoming 2014 football all components and deliver to other brands. We baguette-cut diamonds are promised in the World Cup in Rio de Janeiro thanks to its part- work with 17 different brands and our order near future. nership with the Confederação Brasileira de books are full until the end of 2014.” Futebol (CBF) and the opening of a Parmigiani The road ahead office in São Paulo, the brand debuted its CBF Even with the Eurozone surrounding Switzerland With established brands such as IWC redesign- collection at the SIHH, which consists of ladies’ in an ongoing crisis, the distant planet watch- ing iconic collections and younger brands and gents’ Pershing models and the Transforma making in Switzerland’s economic haven seems such as Roger Dubuis only just levelling out CBF (delivered with two watch-heads, a likely to continue its impressive growth for the after several years of intensive development, chronograph and an annual calendar), which foreseeable future. O 

europa star CONCEPTS 27

The ID TWO concept watch by Cartier If you want an idea of what the watch of the future might look like, then Cartier’s new ID TWO concept watch is a good place to start. The brand approached the design of this piece with two simple objectives: to maximise the amount of energy that a watch with a regular-sized case and a Swiss lever escapement can store and to minimise the loss of energy during its operation. Perhaps the most impressive result of several years of research is the use of a vacuum in a watch, in order to eliminate friction from drag. But aside from the obvious advantage of no dust or oxidation inside the watch, this also meant developing a movement that could operate entirely without lubrication, since liquids “boil” in a vacuum.

Twin DuoLevel barrels Differential gear train To eliminate friction between the coils of the mainsprings and A planetary gear system reduces friction and teeth load. The between the spring and the barrel housing, Cartier developed gear wheels are made from carbon crystal-coated silicon, the first mainsprings in fibreglass, which are more flexible which is 60 per cent harder and 70 per cent lighter than steel, than a standard mainspring and can store more energy. The The case as well as being non-magnetic and resistant to corrosion. springs are coated in parylene to replace lubrication and The 42mm diameter transparent case is in Ceramyst—a Tooth profiles have been modified and ADLC-coated pivots housed inside low-friction ADLC (Amorphous Diamond Like ceramic with a hardness of 800 Vickers that is used in bul- on the gear wheel staffs reduce friction in the ruby bearings Carbon) coated barrels. letproof windows. The case back is held in place solely by the without the need for lubrication. + 30 per cent energy stored vacuum inside. Special gaskets in which the pores have been + 10 per cent transmitted energy sealed with nanoparticles of clay ensure that air cannot pen- etrate inside the watch to affect the vacuum.

Carbon crystal balance wheel The balance wheel is made as a single piece of carbon crystal and is fitted with a Zerodur® Carbon crystal escapement balance spring whose active length is directly adapted to the balance wheel. Since the car- The pallet fork (which has no ruby pallet stones) and escape wheel are made of carbon crys- bon crystal balance wheel oscillates in the 99.8 per cent vacuum of the Airfree® case, the tal using the deep-reactive ion etching (DRIE) process. This ultra-lightweight configuration drag that can account for 80 per cent of balance wheel friction in a conventional watch is rests on ADLC-coated pivots. almost entirely eliminated. +15 per cent transmitted energy - 37 per cent energy consumption Art.SIHH_Malcolm113_Art.GTE_Malcolm113 14.02.13 13:47 Page2

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The year of butterflies and eagles

It may be a long cold winter for some, but for five days in early January snow flurries were held at bay as Geneva warmed to the chefs d’oeuvre at this year’s SIHH.

RD. Malcolm Lakin the original five exhibitors in 1991- Baume & mer months; it also happens to be the inspira- Mercier, Cartier, Piaget, Gérald Genta and Daniel tion for one of Baume & Mercier’s most suc- Roth - to the sixteen brands that graced the cessful collections. halls this year. With the brand’s origins dating back to 1830, Unlike the vast BaselWorld, the SIHH is not there is an interesting horological history from open to the general public, so the moment which to draw inspiration and some of the There were magnifTicently coloured butterflies, you enter and stroll through the halls on the latest models in the collections owe their exis- a couple of eagles, no make that three, racing pastel hued wall-to-wall carpeting you are not tence to timepieces from the past, a natural cars, paintings, a never-ending supply of deli- assailed by a cacophony of industrial sounds, evolution. What I personally find off-putting cious food and drink and enough comfort- boisterous children, pram-pushing families or is that the presentation to the press always able leather seats and settees to cater for the barking dogs, but you’re greeted with a wel- begins with a five minute potted history of the excitable and often weary throng. Oh I almost coming and respectful purr in an elegant oasis brand, this to journalists who have been forgot, there were watches, lots and lots of of relaxed serenity designed and devoted to attending this event for years and probably watches. making the visitor welcome. In short, to para- know it backwards. If I might make a sugges- I am, of course, talking about those five days phrase Christopher Marlowe, the Elizabethan tion to the powers that be, please forget the in January when Geneva becomes the centre dramatist, an ambience created to launch a past and concentrate on now, the latest mod- of the horological universe, when a multitude thousand purchases. els, innovations and perhaps a glimpse into of enthusiasts – around ten thousand buy- the future. ers mingling with a couple of handfuls of re- My first visit was to the stylish seaside setting nowned collectors, stars of the silver screen, of Baume & Mercier with its interior luxuri- As I strolled leisurely through the halls, I was long-legged models and popular sporting ously and spaciously designed to incorporate stopped in my tracks by the squawking of an giants and, surprise surprise, a thousand or so well-lit showcases and framed photographs awesome golden eagle perched and chained hyperventilating journalists from around the and culminating in a room with a view: a ter- to the arm of his handler attired in gear any world – descend on the Salon International race overlooking a sandy beach and the sea. man-about-town would wear in medieval times de Haute Horlogerie. The backdrop is the Hamptons, a group of vil- – a green tabard, leather gauntlets and boots. The SIHH, as it is fondly referred to, is now lages and hamlets on Long Island, New York, Taking in the brilliantly designed surroundings twenty-three years old, having grown from where the rich and famous play in the sum- of trees with a centrepiece of a marvellous

The elegant Baume & Mercier lounge with its terrace and comforting ocean view.   

europa star SIHH IMPRESSIONS 29

The imposing metallic eagle on the Roger Dubuis stand. The imposing replica of Paul O’Neil alongside the trainer of the striking American bald eagle. the Lange & Söhne Grande Complication.

metallic eagle hanging from the ceiling with a a perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chrono- It was standing room only at the press confer- watch in its claws, I discovered that this was graph with flying seconds, day, date, month, ence but the close-ups of the speeding racing the Roger Dubuis setting for the presentation moon and leap year indications. cars in the film that was used to illustrate IWC’s of the exciting Excalibur Collection. link to Formula 1 left me slightly queasy and A little later whilst ambling past with Paul On visitng the IWC stand, one could be forgiven grateful that bicycles are still being manufac- O’Neil, Europa Star’s Managing Editor, the for thinking that you had somehow wandered tured. handler was holding an American bald eagle, into the Geneva Motor Show. However, despite which I duly photographed along with my the cars and the unbelievably complex engines Panerai launched the ‘Big is Beautiful’ con- intrepid colleague. that were on display, the theme was all about cept for wristwatches way back when and it timing, Formula 1 and the introduction of the hasn’t really deviated from it since the first Not far from the crowd-pulling eagles there spectacular Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon. Radiomir timepieces in 1936. was another sight to behold: a four or five metre This amazing timepiece has a case combining On joining the Richemont stable in 1997, replica of the latest Lange & Söhne offering, platinum and ceramic that houses a tourbillon Panerai became a frontrunner in this domain the Grand Complication which stood imperi- with an integrated constant-force mechanism and hasn’t changed its philosophy since, ously in the middle of the stand’s entrance. and a 96-hour power reserve, a perpetual although the brand has successfully evolved by My colleagues will certainly be writing in detail moon phase display, double moon phases for adding new models with different complica- about this complicated timepiece, but suffice the northern and southern hemispheres and a tions and concepts to their existing collections. it to say that this magnificent contribution to countdown display showing phases until the This year there were new Radiomir and Luminor the art of watchmaking has a grande sonnerie, next full moon. models ranging in size from 42 to 47 mm and

A Mercedes racing car dominated the IWC booth, The Panerai Pocket watch but the brand’s Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon won the plaudits. Tourbillon GMT in black ceramic Art.SIHH_Malcolm113_Art.GTE_Malcolm113 14.02.13 13:48 Page4

30 SIHH IMPRESSIONS europa star

The stylish Audemars Piguet stand. The Panerai stand. An Audemars Piguet watchmaker assembling one of the brand’s masterpieces.

in its Submersible Collection there are now & Arpels stand and the captivating selection timepieces and jewellery to the appreciative models in bronze, ceramic and titanium and of ladies’ watches brought a breath of fresh oohs and aahs of the assembled journalists. the very unusual addition of a 59 mm Pocket air to the SIHH by creating an aura of inspired Watch Tourbillon GMT in black ceramic with a and imaginative beauty. I’ll leave my colleagues The Ralph Lauren stand was decorated in the black titanium chain. Big is still beautiful! to describe the floral, avian, lepidopteran and typical styling of the brand with an added sculpted figurine timepieces, but the visit was safari theme. Numerous photographs graced Although Audemars Piguet is not a part of the more akin to visiting a renowned jewellery the wood-lined walls with an original 1950s Richemont group it has been an integral part workshop with the addition of intricate timing. green Land Rover taking centre stage. Three of the SIHH since 1999. In keeping with the new timepieces caught my attention, a new other exhibitors, the brand offers visitors a The Piaget stand was like walking into a mys- 45 mm Chronograph Model, Safari RL67, with luxurious corner to browse around, with two terious maze of mirrored images, intricate a gunmetal finish, a ladies’ watch reminiscent central workbenches close to the stand’s horological patterns and mannequins bedecked of the Art Deco period and a tourbillon. entrance where watchmakers were to be seen with Piaget creations. A great stand to visit – especially if you get assembling one of the complications. Their high- The press conference, chaired by the brand’s to meet Callum Barton, the Chairman of light this year was the new Minute Repeater inimitable CEO, Philippe Léopold-Metger, was Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry and Camille Tourbillon Chronograph, a stunning addition held in a blue tinted room with all the new Floquet, the Vice President, Marketing & to their haute horlogerie collection. timepieces in the various collections projected Communications. (Read our Cover Story in this on to the walls. The finale consisted of ele- issue for detailed information on the new prod- Butterflies were in abundance on the Van Cleef gantly dressed models parading both the latest ucts presented by Ralph Lauren at the SIHH).

The entrance to the imaginative Van Cleef & Arpels stand. Part of the intriguingly mysterious Piaget stand. Visitors admiring the latest Van Cleef & Arpels collections. The Piaget press conference hosted by Philippe Léopold-Metger, the brand’s CEO, Art.SIHH_Malcolm113_Art.GTE_Malcolm113 14.02.13 13:48 Page5

europa star SIHH IMPRESSIONS 31

The Ralph Lauren stand dominated Flavien Gigandet presenting the latest facts, The entrance to the Jaeger-LeCoultre stand by an original 1950s Land Rover. figures and timepieces from Parmigiani. with its oversized symbolic tourbillon ornament.

The press conference at Parmigiani, another But it was the Rendez-Vous Celestial that stole that will be useful to the football (soccer) world. of the independents at the SIHH, was like the limelight with what Jaeger-LeCoultre esteem At Montblanc I was a little surprised to see that a theatre-in-the-round with both Flavien is ‘an invitation to embark on a galactic voyage art seemed to be the dominating factor, but Gigandet and Michel Parmigiani giving highly and a vivid reminder that, 180 years ago, it was on closer inspection the showcases contained professional presentations from a circular beneath the same star-studded sky that Antoine the Nicloas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph, central dias. Now producing 5000 timepieces LeCoultre gave rise to what would become the the TimeWalker Voyager and the new Star a year (43 per cent growth in value and 110 Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux’. Collection. per cent in quantity) Parmigiani’s pièce de Stéphane Belmont, the Product Development I didn’t manage to get to see the new watches résistance was the Tonda Woodstock Tourbillon Director, made the presentation of this year’s at Greubel Forsey – but that’s another story – in an intricate, colourful and eye-catching cru ensuring that we left suitably impressed however, I managed to photograph for pos- marquetry. by both the timepieces and his presentation. terity the enlarged display of the Art Piece 1 that many people were talking about, a co- Jaeger-LeCoultre has mastered the art of My last visits were to Richard Mille, Montblanc creation by Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey complicated timepieces for 180 years and and Greubel Forsey. Richard Mille watches with and Willard Wigan. to celebrate this landmark the brand pro- their overtly mechanical movements, are very duced two new tourbillons; the Master Grande much in vogue with both athletes and couch And so, another year, another success for the Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee and the potatoes alike. It was there that I crossed paths SIHH. Fantasy abounded, technical skills were Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique with Roberto Mancini, the Manchester City prominent, flora and fauna were to the fore à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee. manager who is helping develop a timepiece and, inevitably, creativity triumphed. O

What you see is what you get: Enlargements of Visually art dominated the Montblanc stand, but the Art Piece1 was at the heart of the inner workings of Richard Mille wristwatches. showcases underlined the brand’s horological skills. the Greubel Forsey stand. Art.GTE_Pierre113_Art.GTE_Pierre113 15.02.13 08:48 Page2

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Surrounding the SIHH: space stations and satellites HLRQ02 by Hautlence RPierre Maillard

The power of attraTction of the SIHH star can be measured by the number of satellites that gravitate around it. They come in all sizes, and range from small spacecraft to veritable space stations set up by the competition. The Swatch Group thus set up its headquar- ters in the Cité du Temps, its fortress located in the middle of the Rhône river, in order to present exhibitions dedicated to Blancpain and Breguet. Other heavyweights, such as Hublot and Zenith, rented huge princely suites in the hotels along the lakefront, while high-level independent brands, among them Urwerk, De Bethune, and Christophe Claret, set up Baptism of fire for a family the shares of Hautlence, “including the debts” shop at the prestigious Four Seasons Hotel holding company adds Georges-Henri Meylan. des Bergues. TAG Heuer held its show in an For Georges-Henri Meylan, former CEO of Following this, MELB acquired another pearl: immense industrial hall converted to the 1960s Audemars Piguet, the bells of retirement have H. Moser & Cie. In financial trouble, this inter- colours of the Carrera that is celebrating its not yet rung. Quite the contrary. After having esting company was the property of the indus- 50th anniversary this year. brilliantly managed the manufacture in Le trialist Thomas Straumann, whose fortune was A little further down the Rhône river, the Brassus for many years, this man, who “did made in dental implants (incidentally, his Geneva Time Exhibition (GTE) conducted its not see himself spending his retirement years grandfather was the inventor of the Nivarox show in the magnificent Bâtiment des Forces in front of a television,” recently launched an alloy that forms the basis of watch balance Motrices, converted into an annex of Geneva’s initiative that is among the most interesting in springs). Called in to evaluate the situation Grand Théâtre. During this same time, a suc- the domain of independent brands. He founded and do an audit, Georges-Henri Meylan ended cession of inaugurations and re-openings of MELB Holding, a family holding company, up buying the company. the boutiques along the Rue de Rhône cre- whose vocation is to assemble a small group In both cases, the principal managers were ated a lot of activity while fleets of limousines of independent watch brands that have found kept on. Co-creator of Hautlence and the only ventured into the industrial zones where the themselves in difficulty. original shareholder not to have abandoned Geneva manufactures are located. The first opportunity was Hautlence, whose ship, Guillaume Tetu, whom we met at GTE, In the midst of all this effervescence, Europa original shareholders had “abandoned ship seemed radiant. Not only had his brand been Star retained the essential of the week since it before bankruptcy was filed”. Supported by saved, but he was already feeling the positive was impossible to be totally exhaustive in Bill Muirhead, ex-financial director of Breguet, effects of the arrival of MELB Holding. The scope. We thus present a few examples of accompanied by his two sons, one of whom is reputation of Georges-Henri Meylan and his what seemed particularly instructive in terms responsible for the very high-end watch tele- well-filled address book had already allowed of the diverse forces at work, among the inde- phone brand, Celsius, and the other a distrib- the brand to open many new doors. At the pendents as well as the large groups. utor based in Hong Kong, MELB purchased all same time, its offer was revisited and a new



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MAYU and MERIDIAN DUAL TIME by Moser & Cie

even more “if ever the right opportunities present themselves,” the synergies gradually being put into place seem promising, espe- cially in the realm of marketing, exchanges of calibres, sharing of the back office and distrib- ution. As an example, a new showroom is being established in Hong Kong where the two brands will be available as well as De Bethune, whose local distributor is the son of Georges-Henri Meylan. Europa Star will con- tinue to closely follow this affair.

An independent under pressure The path of the independent brands is far from being strewn with rose petals. Michael Vogt, who also had a stand at GTE with his watch brand for travellers, Vogard, created in 2003, can bear witness to this fact. “Since I began, the market has changed consider- more affordable collection, Avant-Garde, was because it also acquired Precision Engineering ably,” explains the former head of marketing launched. Prices fell from around CHF 60,000 in the deal, which makes springs, assortments at TAG Heuer (during the Christian Viros era). to CHF 30,000, while strictly respecting the very and balances—items that have become “In 2008, the industry suffered a veritable particular DNA of this architectural brand. highly strategic commodities. For Georges- earthquake that created a new reality for the At Moser & Cie, whose very classically pure Henri Meylan, who envisions expanding MELB small watch brands. The market became and minimally designed watches are the exact opposite of the Hautlence timepieces, the impact of MELB Holding’s involvement is yet to be determined, since the transaction is barely three months old. For Daniel Zimmermann, however, continuing as head of sales and marketing, the arrival of MELB has already had a positive effect. “They are people com- ing directly from the watch industry who will allow us to remain independent,” he explains. “Having said that, there is much to do: decrease the production costs of our own movements, which are very nice, but too expensive; improve the perception of the brand with the final con- sumer; differentiate ourselves from our com- petitors, who are Vacheron Constantin, Lange & Söhne and Patek Philippe,” he says, adding quickly that MELB “has also brought a certain freshness” to this splendid but somewhat rig- orous brand. Strategically, the 100-per cent acquisition of H. Moser & Cie is also very interesting for MELB DATEZONER by Vogard Art.GTE_Pierre113_Art.GTE_Pierre113 15.02.13 08:48 Page4

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FIRMAMENTUM by Heritage / Karsten Fraessdorf / CALIBRE 800 MAGNUS by Heritage

reach perfection in mechanical chronometry. His approach is quite pragmatic. “I am the first to take a new path if it brings improve- ment, but the last to renounce the traditional approach if it proves to be the best,” he declares. All of his technical choices are derived from this attitude. A large balance with a diameter of 17 mm that beats at the peaceful rhythm of 18,000 vibrations per hour? As early as 1773, the great Ferdinand Berthoud had already explained that “by doubling the diameter of a balance, you reduce the friction by half without chang- ing the amount of force…” A constant force escapement? With two escape wheels and six pallets, he obtains a constant linear force over 50 hours. A barrel with a 17-mm diameter? The ancient rules tell us that the optimum size of a barrel locked up and the large groups exerted enor- the date automatically for the corresponding must be equal to that of the balance. mous pressure on the retailers. Even if 2012 time zone. Progressively, the brand’s collection We might ask many questions, but Karsten was an excellent year for us—November and has passed from CHF 7,500 to CHF 15,000 Fraessdorf has an answer for all of them, as December were the best two months in a very for the Datezoner. In addition, Vogard has he shows us his timepieces, all finished with long time—going to battle with a wooden increased its specific editions, with time zones exceptional care. In addition to the traditional rifle is not enough. Today, you need F16s and based on the passions of the watch’s owner: time indications, the Centenus watch displays aircraft carriers… The general watchword is golf courses, air fields, F1 circuits, casinos, surf the very complex traditional Chinese time, consolidation and the big have become way spots, etc. Even the rotating bezels can be which subdivides the day into 100 units. The too big. Now, with ten years of hindsight and totally personalised (for an additional fee of Firmamentum, a true navigation watch, is 5,000 watches sold, we can affirm that our CHF 1,200). We also cannot forget that Vogard equipped with an angular seconds hand that unique technology [Editor’s note: developed is the only brand to display the respective lets the wearer measure the movements of by the excellent independent watchmaker summer and winter time hours in different the sun, the planets, and the stars. He can thus Andreas Strehler] has proven reliable. Yet, I time zones. determine his position “with an accuracy of need to form a strategic partnership with a 91 metres at the equator,” explains Fraessdorf. more powerful brand. This has become a Towards chronometric perfection [Editor’s note: Europa Star will return in detail necessity.” A few steps further on, we find Didier Decker, to these models in a later issue.] Vogard has, however, put in a credible perfor- former head of industrialisation at Harry “My role is to get the machine started and fin- mance. Increasing gradually in complexity, its Winston, and now CEO of the hyper horologi- ish the development so that we can move on very original and exclusive collection, designed cal brand Heritage. A relatively new brand, to series production,” explains Didier Decker. and produced with care, debuted with the created in 2010—or more precisely a brand “We are drawing up the production plans with Timezoner, the world’s first watch where the in the making—the first pieces should be in Centagora (see Europa Star 4/12) and we time zone can be adjusted by a simple move- retail stores by Spring 2014, Heritage was work with a network of sub-contractors that ment of the crown. Vogard then introduced born from the chronometric dream of Karsten are 100-per cent Swiss. The first series compo- the Chronozoner, a chronograph for travellers Fraessdorf. A great admirer of antique haute nents will be delivered this autumn. At the with the same exclusive complication. This horlogerie, this master watchmaker—with a same time, I am building our distribution net- year saw the launch of the Datezoner. In addi- rare rigour and incomparable excellence—is work. The watches are intended for informed tion to the chronograph, this watch changes completely absorbed by his ultimate goal: to collectors (starting price is CHF 34,000) and Art.GTE_Pierre113_Art.GTE_Pierre113 15.02.13 08:48 Page5

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BIG BANG FERRARI by Hublot

we are aiming for a production of 35 to 40 watches for 2014, while we intend to reach 100 watches per year at our cruising speed.” Not far from there, at the entrance to his stand at the GTE, is a man with a smile on his face. Laurent Ferrier has largely proven that small series production can enjoy widespread consid- eration. We wish the same destiny for Heritage.

Hublot’s aircraft carrier It is in a completely different ambiance, lively and excited, where Hublot set up camp over several hundred square metres on the first floor of the Hotel Kempinsky. Dozens of walled cubi- cles had been set up (necessary for transaction confidentiality) to meet with the brand’s clients who waited patiently to resupply their stocks in an immense room overlooking the lake. Those in charge of the various markets are all busy, and the head of communication, Marine tions priced from CHF 28,000 to CHF 38,000; with a totally in-house skeleton tourbillon move- Lemonnier, scurries from one cubicle to another. the Hublot Zebra for ladies in white or black ment, available in 99 pieces at CHF 85,000; The new pieces are on parade: the 45-mm ceramic, or King Gold, with a chronograph the ultra-thin Classic Fusion in ceramic, fea- Hublot Ferrari with an in-house Unico move- movement, priced from CHF 26,500 to CHF turing a 45-mm diameter, in-house manual ment, in carbon and ceramic, with limited edi- 38,900; the Hublot Classic Fusion, equipped movement... etc... etc... The new watches kept coming at a constant rate. Hublot has become an incredible cash machine that never seems to sleep, owing it all to the incredible Jean-Claude Biver, one of the only people to have succeeded not once or twice but three times: Blancpain, created against all expectations and then resold; Omega, that he spectacularly rejuvenated; finally Hublot where he developed his “Big Bang” thus transforming an attractive inde- pendent watch brand into a commercial pow- erhouse.

Zenith at cruising speed A few floors higher, the ambiance is somewhat more hushed at another LVMH brand. Zenith rented the Presidential Suite, and from the table where it presented its new pieces, you could admire a Jacuzzi seemingly suspended in front of the landscape of Lake Geneva. Since Jean-Frédéric Dufour took over as man- BIG BANG ZEBRA BANG and CLASSIC FUSION by Hublot ager, the brand has gained in followers, horo- Art.GTE_Pierre113_Art.GTE_Pierre113 15.02.13 08:48 Page6

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ACADEMY CHRISTOPHE COLOMB 45MM HURRICANE by Zenith

logical legitimacy and commercial success what it lost in bling and glitz. After putting the excellent El Primero movement back at the heart of the range, after repositioning the brand’s product ranges, reducing the number of references and applying a policy of correct pricing, Zenith can permit itself new adven- tures that strengthen its horological legiti- macy. Having said that, however, the only mechanical “folly” that the brand has indulged in is a new version of the Academy Christophe Colomb, the 45-mm Hurricane model. What differentiates this piece—equipped like its predecessor with the spectacular Gravity Control universal joint suspension system, a gyroscopic carriage directly inspired by marine chronometers, which, besides the advantage of amplitude regularity, gives the piece its very particular sapphire bulge—is that the Hurricane comes with a new fusee-chain trans- force of 3 kg, are made and assembled by the pieces in the limited series of 25 watches is mission system that provides a constant and watchmaker Vianney Halter. This exceptional also at the zenith. totally stable force over the entire 50-hour work is perfectly visible on the open-worked Another watchmaker of renown, Ludwig power reserve. The 585 component parts of dial of the watch. And, although uncommon Oechslin, curator of the Musée International the 18-cm micro-chain, capable of resisting a at Zenith, at CHF 254,000, the price of these d'Horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, developed a version of his annual calendar for Zenith. The great advantage of his model is that it has only nine moving parts as compared to the other annual calendars that require between thirty and forty mobile units. This superb and very ingenious development (one of Oechslin’s many strokes of genius is to understand bet- ter than anyone else how to simplify and rad- icalise mechanical solutions) equips the Captain Windsor Annual Calendar timepiece, reserved for the brand’s own boutiques, shops-in-shop, and large corners. In an outstanding smoked steel case, it sells for CHF 9,400, a remarkable price for an annual calendar and this useful complication.

Towards the future, via the 1960s Not far from there, TAG Heuer spectacularly customised a large hall in the 1960s colours of its flagship watch, the Carrera, launched fifty years ago by the still dashing Jack Heuer. CAPTAIN WINDSOR ANNUAL CALENDAR by Zenith It was the occasion for the brand to empha- Art.GTE_Pierre113_Art.GTE_Pierre113 15.02.13 08:48 Page7

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CARRERA CARBON CALIBRE 1887 by TAG Heuer

Very high mechanical interactivity We will also be able to discover another new and remarkable creation at BaselWorld, from those who are opening new avenues in watch- making or, we might say, even opening a new chapter. This would be the work of Urwerk, which has already laboured for three years in the greatest secrecy. For the moment, all that we can see is a kind of small box with a bun- dle of wires leading to a mechanically acti- vated generator that charges a condenser, and that will ultimately generate a very precise light wave: a sort of electronic surveillance eye. Named EMC for Electronic Mechanical Control, this ensemble is, in fact, an optical tool for controlling the balance, a sort of wrist Witschi that is infinitely more precise. Because where the Witschi control instrument sise its integrated, column-wheel chronograph is based on the sound—the tick-tock—of the movement, the Calibre 1887. This particular balance to measure its accuracy, here the con- calibre garnered a lot of attention because it trol is integrated into the watch, with a dura- is based on plans purchased from Seiko. TAG tion of three seconds on demand, and is Heuer remained steadfast and transparent based on optics. We will know much more at throughout the media onslaught, stressing the Calibre 1887, comprising a ceramic bezel, or BaselWorld, but we are now seeing the start the in-house production of the entirely revis- in the form of a Racing Chronograph, a simple of an original fusion between mechanical ited calibre, which is now at full capacity. chronograph, or the classic Heritage version. haute horlogerie and high-end electronics One of the most interesting uses of this new We also came to this stand to meet Guy Semon, (but without a battery). calibre is in a series of Carrera chronographs the grand guru of the brand’s research and This remarkable development follows the launched for the anniversary. On the first row development unit. He showed us a new ver- famous “Control Board” developed by Urwerk, of this new family is the Carrera Carbon sion of the famous V4 in “full graphite”, with and which is found in a new application in Calibre 1887 Concept Chronograph. Featuring the world’s smallest transmission belts. Semon the brand’s most recent model, the UR-210. asymmetrical horns and push-pieces and is always busy with new avenues relating to The central piece of this new highly mechani- crown at 12 o’clock, it is inspired by the futur- regulation that he is working on with his team cal spaceship is a “cage with an instanta- istic Carrera Mikrogirder (winner of the Golden of 52 people, who produce about 350 haute neous jumping minute hand.” It is an enor- Hand at the last Geneva Watchmaking Grand horlogerie pieces per year. He filled us in on mous minute hand in 3D that clamps on to Prix). The main characteristic of this model is some of the new products in the pipeline, but the hour cube and accompanies it through its that the case, case back, and bezel are made immediately declared that this information is travel along the minute rail. Upon its arrival of ultra-fine strips of reinforced carbon fibre off the record—way off the record—because at the 59th minute, the carriage-hand returns that are only 0.007 mm thick. The production he has decided to show only what is coming to its starting point in less than a 10th of a of these strata involves the creation of the up for sale in the near future. So expect to see second and clamps on to the next rotating components in 3D, which are heated, then something rather amazing at the next hour cube. compressed to obtain their extreme rigidity by BaselWorld. We cannot say more because This veritable “fairing” of aluminium, balanced chemical reaction. The total weight of each when Guy Semon, with his imposing stature, by a counterweight in brass and whose cut is 45-mm piece is only 76.9 grammes! Four other says “off the record”, it would be better to extremely precise (a tolerance of one micron), models have been launched, all equipped with heed his words. is driven by a cylindrical spring similar to those Art.GTE_Pierre113_Art.GTE_Pierre113 15.02.13 08:48 Page8

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UR-210 by Urwerk

The emotion… finally In my opinion, after so many watches seen during this week, the most beautiful and the most poetic of all was the DB28 Skybridge from De Bethune, which I saved for last. There is no indication on this watch other than the hours and the minutes. But what a show! As sharp as very fine daggers, these two hands are driven by an entirely original movement. They orbit above a concave dial made of tita- nium, with a splendid deep blue mirror finish, which holds perfect micro-spheres of gold and diamonds that make up celestial bodies. On the lower part of the watch, below a bridge in the form of an arrow pointing towards the unknown, a spherical moon rotates on its own axis and represents one of the emblem- atic signatures of the brand. The design fasci- nation, the plays between the infinitely large used in marine chronometers. But it is with mode. Surprisingly complex, yet easy to use and the infinitely small attain a rare splen- the patented TMC mechanism (Time Motion and read, the UR-210, of which all the visible dour, but one that is also very contemporary. Control) that we find the interactivity between pieces are made in-house, bears witness to For once, we dare use a word that is so over- the watch’s wearer and its movement that the rise in strength of the brand created by used by “marketing”: emotion. What a nice Urwerk wants to develop. Martin Frei and Félix Baumgartner. final touch to the week. O The classic power reserve is located at 1 o’clock and a new type of indicator is found at 11 o’clock. This new indication shows the wind- ing efficiency over the past two hours. If the hand points towards the red, it means that the winding is insufficient—the wearer is probably sitting comfortably in his chair. If, on the contrary, the needle points to the green, it means that winding is taking place—the wearer is probably involved in some kind of physical activity. By turning the watch over, the wearer can correct the ratio between wind- ing and energy expenditure. A “Control Board” with a toothed wheel allows the wearer to position the winding regulator to FULL (wind- ing is then optimised by a small turbine cou- pled to the oscillating weight) or to REDUCED (a turbine equipped with paddles creates resis- tance from the friction of air and thus slows down the oscillating weight). In the STOP mode, the automatic winding is deactivated and the watch is placed in manual winding DB28 SKYBRIDGE by De Bethune Art.GTE_Paul113_Art.GTE_Paul113 14.02.13 13:42 Page2

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All change for the Geneva Time Exhibition

RPaul O’Neil

In its fourth year, theI Geneva Time Exhibition presented itself in the new, more sophisti- cated environment of the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices, the iconic Geneva building that is often home to important press conferences, events and sumptuous gala dinners. But there was change, too, within the walls of the exhibi- tion, as the mix of smaller independent brands and larger volume manufacturers once again changed quite considerably. Many of the brands that featured in last year’s Europa Star report, such as Cyrus, Dietrich, Louis Moinet and

Magellan, were not at the show this year. QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUEL AU GRAND BALANCIER by Antoine Martin There were nevertheless 34 brands, including some newcomers, ready to greet the 6,000 confident,” he says. “We haven’t been around Braun in person, at the Palace at BaselWorld visitors that came to see what the small inde- very long but we have already managed to this year, where he will be presenting a new pendent brands have to offer this year. Here open a few points of sale. There are others development that takes his fascination with are our highlights. who would like to carry Antoine Martin but we large balances to its logical conclusion. know they would harm the brand in the long Antoine Martin term by selling a lot to start with but then Ateliers de Monaco In the complicated world of watch brand names, nothing after that. That cannot be our objective This high-end brand in the Frédérique Constant Antoine Martin does not refer to a real person because we need to think for the long term. group was born from a minute-repeater cali- but uses the first names of the brand’s two It’s quite difficult to find the right retailer.” bre that was originally conceived for Frédérique co-founders, Martin Braun and Antoine Meier. Constant. When Peter Stas, CEO of Frédérique This is because the more familiar name, Martin At the show Antoine Martin presented a new, Constant, saw the finished product he liked it Braun, is the property of the Franck Muller sportier version of its Quantième Perpétuel au but realised that the gap between the other group, which in 2006 invested in the epony- Grand Balancier, in which an open dial reveals models in the collection was too great. Thus mous brand set up by the master watchmaker the discs used to display the day and month Ateliers de Monaco was born in 2009. in 2001. Three years later, having been pre- and big date and a black DLC-coated bezel vented from realising his dream of creating underscores the sporty look. In addition to Pim Koeslang, master watchmaker and co- his own movement from scratch, Martin Braun Martin Braun’s own high-performance escape- founder of Ateliers de Monaco, picks up the sold the majority stake to Franck Muller and ment (HPE) in silicon and the new Aerodynamic story. “Before even creating the movement we left the company. Amplitude Stabilisation (ADAS), the manually asked ourselves how we could improve it and wound AM39.001 calibre used in this model we saw four different areas where we could In the meantime, Martin Braun has been able has an extra-large free-sprung balance in grade do this. The first was visibility, so we have used to realise his dream and is happy with the five titanium with a diameter of 17.5 mm. large windows. The second was security, so you development of his new brand. “We are quite Look out for Antoine Martin, or indeed Martin cannot change the date between 9 and 12 at ICE-CHRONO

facebook.com/ice.watch www.ice-watch.com CHANGE. YOU CAN.

2012-11-14-ice-watch-EUROPASTAR-205x265.indd 1 14/11/2012 09:14:32 Art.GTE_Paul113_Art.GTE_Paul113 14.02.13 13:42 Page3

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night, for example. Thirdly, the date changes instantaneously at midnight, along with all the other indications. And finally we have patented our own ‘easy adjust’ correction mechanism, which allows you to choose the indication you want to adjust by turning the crown.”

The high-end pieces of Ateliers Monaco, which already produces four in-house movements, use Swiss components but are assembled in the company’s workshops in Monaco, which are located in the prestigious Palais de la Scala, barely more than an ambitious coin toss away from the famous casino. “We really wanted to be somewhere outside Switzerland and above all outside Geneva in order to differentiate our- PERPETUAL CALENDAR by Ateliers de Monaco selves from everyone else,” explains Koeslang. “There are a lot of high-end watch brands in and the Prince of Qatar,” says Koeslang. “It’s a Switzerland and in Geneva, so we wanted to different business [to Frédérique Constant], so set up elsewhere.” we also have totally different retail partners.”

Although the brand enjoys certain synergies The brand will be in BaselWorld for the first from being part of the Frédérique Constant time this year in Hall 4 together with Frédérique group, its customers are not in the same league. Constant and Alpina. “We have produced pieces for Prince Albert Boegli It is worth mentioning in passing that Boegli, Boegli the brand famous for its wristwatches with musical movements, have announced that they are working on their own calibre. Until now Boegli timepieces have been based on a twin construction involving an ETA move- ment, such as the ETA2671 or the ETA 2824, together with a Swiss-made musical move- ment. The brand is now working on its own integrated musical calibre, which it says is “nearing completion”. It will have three barrels for the necessary power and will be launched in a limited-edition watch of 99 pieces that will be sold exclusively through subscription.

Century More famous for its unique facetted sapphire cases and fine jewellery models for ladies, ELEGANCE TOURBILLON by Century Century caused a surprise at this year’s GTE 

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yet its presence at this year’s GTE signalled its intentions to become a player in the watch business. And it plans to do so in style, pre- senting its first collection of mechanical watches with a fine baguette movement visi- ble behind sapphire crystal and priced from a reasonable CHF 500. But the name is set to hit BaselWorld with a bang later this year, where it will present a patented movement concept that features a diamond of over 5 carats and will retail for over CHF 1 million.

Milus The star model on the Milus stand shows how, if you have the right connections, you can still

CLASSICS MANUFACTURE WORLDTIMER by Frédérique Constant acquire watch movements that are over 70 years old for low-volume reproductions of vin- by presenting its first gents’ tourbillon model. als and a guilloché pattern, while the other tage watches. Cyril Dubois, managing director The Elegance Tourbillon has a 44mm case in bears a map of the world encircled by lumi- of Milus, was looking for some vintage move- platinum with a Century sapphire that has 48 nous hour markers. ments for a re-edition of an unusual “survival hand-cut and polished facets, inside which kit” that had been issued to US pilots in the beats the TT791.50 calibre from Technotime, Harold Pacific campaign during the second world war. with a masculine ruthenium finish that is visible Harold W. SA is currently little more than a “We found three of the original kits,” explained behind the transparent sapphire dial. This man- shop on the Rue de Berne in Geneva specialis- Dubois, “and when I opened the first one, which ual-winding tourbillon calibre has twin barrels ing in gemstones and new and used watches, had never even been opened, I wound the that offer a 120-hour power reserve and won watch up to see if it still worked and it did!” third place in the 2011 International Chrono- metry Competition in Le Locle, Switzerland. The survival kit consisted of a watch, medal- (For more information, see our article about lion, chain and rings—all in gold—inside a this movement in Europa Star 02/2012). Bakelite case. The idea was that if pilots had Century aims to produce around 20 pieces of to down their aeroplane in hostile territory this new tourbillon in 2013. The retail price is they could use the kit as a bargaining tool for CHF 80,000. assistance. Milus’s modern-day reproduction of this kit, the Snow Star special edition, com- Frédérique Constant prises a watch, cufflinks, identification tag, Independent manufacture Frédérique Constant chain and separate NATO strap for the watch presented its new Classics Manufacture and is available in two different series, one of Worldtimer at the show. This new model fea- 99 pieces in red gold and another of 1940 tures the FC-718 self-winding calibre with a pieces in stainless steel. “I wanted to use the 42-hour power reserve and allows all the same movement as the original in the gold functions—time, date and world time—to be pieces,” said Dubois, “and I was lucky enough adjusted with the crown at 3 o’clock. It is avail- through contacts in the industry to find 100 of able as two limited editions, each of 1,888 the original ETA 2408 movements in La Chaux- pieces, in a 42mm rose-gold plated stainless- de-Fonds. The only things we had to change HAROLD steel case. One has a dial with Roman numer- were the barrel and a few rubies.” 

44 THE GENEVA SHOWS europa star

ments and incorporates a uniquely American invention: the motor barrel. Historically used in high-end American watches, the motor bar- rel assembly rotates within the jewel setting of the barrel, rather than around the barrel arbour (which in the case of the motor barrel forms part of the barrel) and thus reduces fric- tion and wear on the mainspring. The manually-wound Caliber 20 is found in a tonneau model in polished stainless steel mea- suring 42.5mm by 38.5mm which displays the seconds on a disc in the unusual location of 1 o’clock, with an ornately decorated moon- phase on a wheel at 7 o’clock visible thanks to the openworked dial.

SNOW STAR HERITAGE by Milus RGM The atmosphere at this year’s GTE was warm The only differences between the original kit Taking its name from the initials of company and friendly. But more importantly the show and its modern equivalent is that the diame- founder Roland G. Murphy, RGM was flying was busy, confirming the rude health of the ter of the watch case has been increased from the flag for the United States at the GTE. In industry and the continued appeal of the inno- 38mm to 40mm and that Milus has included celebration of the Pennsylvania-based com- vative timepieces from independent watch- its own cufflinks rather than the rings found in pany’s 20th anniversary in 2012, RGM pre- makers. Having found an ideal location in one the original, adding a handy compass to one sented its third in-house movement, the Caliber of Geneva’s landmark locations, the GTE looks and a rotating propeller to the other. The mili- 20. This movement follows on from the brand’s set to remain one of the unmissable events of tary identification tag from the original has in-house tourbillon and Caliber 801 move- the Geneva show week. O also been replaced by an old Swiss military identification tag for reasons of neutrality.

As far as business is concerned, Mr Dubois, like many of the exhibitors at the GTE, is opti- mistic. “I was very happy with 2012,” he said. “We had a very good year and 2013 looks promising as well. At the moment we are doing 51 per cent in Asia and 49 per cent in the rest of the world. I know the figures are precise but we just closed the year’s accounts, so that’s how I know this. I would like to reverse this proportion and aim for 45 per cent in Asia and 55 per cent in the rest of the world. We do hope to open in new markets in Latin America and we have had some first contact with potential partners for India. But there are other markets in Asia where we are still not present, such as South Korea and Burma.” CALIBER 20 by RGM CaseStudyRetailer113_CaseStudyRetailer113 14.02.13 14:07 Page2

europa star CASE-STUDY 45

A (show) week in the life of a retailer

RKeith W. Strandberg

lio, if we can add value to the brand and vice versa. Then we check what their distribution model is, followed by marketing strategy and last, but certainly not least, what their after- sales strategy and infrastructure is. To get a sense of wThat a retailer looks for dur- ing the Geneva shows, Europa Star spent ES: What sort of opening order do you make some time with Alon Ben Joseph, president of when opening up a new brand? Ace Jewelers in the Netherlands. Though not specifically looking for any new brands, his ABJ: Our father always taught my brother and mind is always open and on the lookout for me not to become a brand collection retailer, great opportunities. Alon Ben Joseph but a true partner for the brands. In his eyes Ben Joseph flew in from Amsterdam on Monday, this means that when presenting a brand, it January 21, 2013, did the GTE in one day, then and grow. Therefore we take it as a very serious should be an above-average collection. But, spent the rest of his time at the SIHH, visiting commitment, where hard work from both sides always making sure that the stock rotation with his Richemont brands. I caught up with (brand and retailer) is needed. Often even figure is above par. This means tweaking the him between appointments at the SIHH, over three sides: brand, distributor and retailer. collection non-stop with the brands. a cup of steaming tea. ES: What are the things you consider when ES: Can you have two directly competing Europa Star: What kind of commitment does you think about taking on a new brand? brands in the same store? taking on a new brand mean to you? ABJ: First and foremost, we consider if we ABJ: This is a very good question, but we find Alon Ben Joseph: Taking on a new brand is actually do love the brand. Do we love the that as a luxury retailer, we are fortunate not a long-term commitment, as we consider our- brand identity and the products they create? to have to deal with this dilemma too often and selves a true partner of the brand. Although we We have to truly believe in the concept, strat- we believe that watch and jewellery brands live in a high pace society nowadays, our indus- egy and philosophy of the brand. Then, of are so different in nature and character they try is far from a fast moving consumer goods course, we need to do some soul searching to do not really overlap and therefore cannot be industry and things need time to “breathe” see if the brand belongs in our brand portfo- considered true competitors. CaseStudyRetailer113_CaseStudyRetailer113 14.02.13 14:07 Page3

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“Our family has been burned many times over several generations, but we have a positive outlook...”

tion if their after sales infrastructure is below par, which has been the case with many Swiss brands in our region over the last decade!

ES: Have you been burned by a new brand before?

ABJ: Our family has been burned many times over several generations, but we have a posi- tive outlook on life and do not like to speak badly about the past. So, we prefer to leave the past in the past. We think that successful entrepreneurs are people who take risks… When taking risk, one gets burned, right?! ES: Explain to me how you find these new ES: What is the risk to retailers when taking brands? And once you target a new brand, on a new brand? ES: What did you see at GTE this year that got what kind of due diligence do you do? you interested? ABJ: What we see as the biggest risk for retail- ABJ: Besides being passionate watch retail- ers when taking on a new brand is that the ABJ: Moser & Cie is brand that we know well, ers, we are also private collectors. So, we love brand does not live up to their promises. We as one of our customers is a descendant of reading up on Europa Star, watch magazines find the biggest risk of underperforming is in Moser, the co-founder of IWC, and used to and blogs. On top of that we receive a lot of after-sales service, especially with brands that have shares in the watch brand Moser & Cie proposals from brands to start partnerships. offer mechanical watches. This is nowadays when it was founded. Now at GTE we fell in So, there is no lack of information. When we one of the most important marketing tools in love again (and again) with what they do and are interested, several talks follow and that’s our opinion. On top of that, according to Dutch manufacture. I didn’t make a deal yet, how- where a relationship starts. Then we usually Law, the retailer is responsible for the prod- ever. It was too hectic at GTE, and their booth let that relationship grow and evolve over ucts they sell and not the brands. But if brands was too small to talk privately. time until the time is right to actually start to do not permit us to repair their products and/or do business. Everything is about timing. supply spare parts, we are in a catch-22 situa- ES: You recently took on the Chinese Time- keeper – can you tell me how you found the brand, how you decided to take it on and how it has done?

ABJ: This is actually a very nice story. Besides having a retail operation, Ace Jewelers Group, we also have a wholesale division, named ChronoTime. One of the brands we represent is Rhein Fils (leather goods) and the CEO is friends with the founder of The Chinese Timekeeper, Adrien Choux. Even before Adrien launched his brand, we were introduced in Hong Kong and became friends. As I loved what Adrien created, we decided to support him and become his first ambassador outside China. And, it CaseStudyRetailer113_CaseStudyRetailer113 14.02.13 14:07 Page4

europa star CASE-STUDY 47

“As most of us in this wonderful industry are true watch freaks and emotions are as important as ratio...”

has been a success for us. We expected just to Breitling, TAG Heuer, Longines, Baume & the face time. GTE is accessible and it is great sell it to Chinese customers, but the funny thing Mercier, Montblanc, Rado and Tissot. The top for introductions and to get to know new is we sell it more to local watch collectors than five watch models are: Omega Seamaster Planet brands. I liked Celsius very much. I didn't know (visiting) Chinese watch consumers. Ocean, IWC Portuguese, Breitling Chronomat, the Heritage Watch Manufactory, so it was Omega Speedmaster and TAG Heuer Carrera. great to meet them. ES: Many retailers are reluctant to take on new, unknown brands. What advice would ES: What brands do you wish you had that ES: What, as a retailer, do you have to tell a you give them? you don't currently have? new brand about your store?

ABJ: As most of us in this wonderful indus- ABJ: The evergreens we’d love to have in ABJ: I give them my business card, I tell them try are true watch freaks and emotions are our store are: Patek Philippe, Rolex, A. Lange our story, I give them our book. The click is (almost) as important as ratio, you sometimes & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Cartier, often very quick. They are flash meetings, like have to take a chance and have some fun. On Audemars Piguet and Panerai. Obviously I for- speed dating. top of that, it is very good for your business got to mention some. Then these are brands and brand portfolio to have something unique that also make our hearts beat a lot faster: ES: What do you get out of a successful rela- and different in your showcases. As most F.P. Journe, Urwerk, MB&F, Parmigiani, Ikepod, tionship with a new brand, helping to put them retail stores turn into little replica department Greubel Forsey and Richard Mille. on the map, other than financial success? stores with islands of brand corners, it is nice for customers to be surprised with something ES: How are you going to get these brands? ABJ: It's fun to help a new brand. It's great to fresh and different. Even if you know that the do something new, and it's the unknown. It's rotation will never match up to what other ABJ: By charming them. pushing the boundaries of yourself and your brands do. Maybe even consider it as a mar- store. It's easy to take on established brands, keting tool... ES: What was your experience like at GTE? but it's oh so hard to do a new brand. It's a What did you see? refreshing challenge. O ES: What are the most successful brands and models in your stores? ABJ: This is my third year at GTE. I think it's Thanks so much to Alon Ben Joseph for his great that they moved location, it's a scenic time and comments. ABJ: The most successful brands in our bou- place in the city. There was a good vibe, it was Check out the video of his time at the GTE on tiques (online and physical) are: Omega, IWC, busy and we stayed there late. This fair is for www.europastar.com www.baselworld.com

bsw13_kamp_205x265_e_neu_jm.indd 1 21.11.12 14:41 RaymondWeil113_RaymondWeil113 14.02.13 14:31 Page2

europa star PRE-BASEL 49

Raymond Weil, just the right positioning

RInterview conducted by Pierre Maillard have disappeared. Currencies have become important than ever. It allows an in-depth unpredictable, which forces us to adapt from analysis of performance, something that is day to day. To sum it up, the perspectives have imperative today because, notably under the become a bit blurred in the general eco- pressure of the banks, everything has become nomic fog. more analytical.

With 200,000W watches sold in 2012 (at an ES: What is happening on the distribution ES: As Raymond Weil moves up-market, have average retail price of about CHF 2,000, with front? People have, for a long time now, praised you re-qualified, as we might say, your net- price tags ranging from CHF 850 to 5,000 the solidity and depth of your international work of retailers? and the core range situated between CHF sales network, the key to your success… 1,250 and 3,500), Raymond Weil is one of the OB: With the exception of the USA, where biggest independent Swiss brands, and a fam- OB: There has been a dual movement. On one earlier we were focused on the major chains ily business on top of that. hand, the traditional system of distributors no and where we have opened a number of Europa Star met Olivier Bernheim, son-in-law longer works very well. It is a question of mar- quality independent stores, we have a ten- of the founder of Raymond Weil, today retired gins, but also of mission. In the past, a distrib- dency to close a certain number of doors in from the brand’s daily operations, who man- utor had real responsibilities and could make order to concentrate on the better stores. Our ages the business with his two sons, Pierre decisions. Today, a brand must become global great advantage, as an independent brand, is and Elie Bernheim. in terms of image and offer. In parallel, having to be able to offer retailers a quality alterna- direct contact with retailers has become more tive, rapid reaction time, and a reactivity that Europa Star: How would you analyse the is greater than what the big groups can offer.

watch year that has just passed, in which JASMINE. Part of Raymond Weil’s high-end collection for No one misunderstands that these groups are sales grew by nearly 11 per cent to reach CHF ladies, it features a quartz movement, hours, minutes, date, seeking to physically take over more and more 21.4 billion, given that it was watches costing 35-mm steel case set with 29 diamonds, double anti-reflective space. We have also opened some thirty single- sapphire crystal, silver dial, pink gold-plated hour markers CHF 3,000 (at export) which increased both in and hands, and two-tone steel and pink gold-plated bracelet. brand boutiques, always in collaboration with terms of value (up 18 per cent) and volume (up 13.1 per cent) and that the segment occu- pied by Raymond Weil (between CHF 500 and 3,000) increased by only 0.3 per cent in terms of value?

Olivier Bernheim: In the end, 2012 was a very positive year for us and also resulted in an increase in sales. And this was despite the fact that some countries where we are well established have been practically wiped off the map. I am thinking notably of Portugal, Spain, Italy and Greece, as well as Libya and Egypt. At the same time, we have recorded big sales that are constantly increasing in the USA and in the United Kingdom. Having said that, what seems to me to best describe the current situation is the general uncertainty that reigns. The result is a lack of general security. The main reference points that help us to develop a strategy over the medium term RaymondWeil113_RaymondWeil113 14.02.13 14:31 Page3

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NABUCCO CUORE CALDO TWELVE. This self-winding chronograph features hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve, and tachometric bezel. The 46-mm case is made in 18- carat rose gold, titanium, polished and brushed steel, and car- bon fibre, and includes a double anti-reflective sapphire crystal, black vulcanized rubber or leather strap, and water-resis- tance to 10 ATM. It is available in a limited series of 76 pieces.

OB: No. The idea is to be where Raymond Weil was 20 years ago. This means a lower price range, between CHF 350 for a quartz time- piece to CHF 1,150 for an automatic. It is a Swiss Made brand intended for a younger audience, a brand that is more fashion oriented and whose promotion channels are focused more on the web and interactive. It is possible to purchase these watches online, but using a formula that does not harm any of our retail- ers. This means that a person first selects a retailer before being directed to the e-store.

ES: How are these two brands co-existing?

the local people. Very recently, this happened in Spain, and the small Eastern European coun- OB: 88 Rue du Rhône is a completely com- Singapore and Indonesia, as well as in Mumbai, tries; and one in India. At the beginning of plementary offer that does not infringe on where we just opened a third boutique. March, we are opening a new branch in the Raymond Weil’s territory. Having said that, it United Kingdom. The other nations are man- benefits from the “group effect” and we are try- ES: So, what are the specific advantages for a aged by our Geneva headquarters. ing to place it in all the doors where we are retailer to carry Raymond Weil? already present. For the retailer, it offers a num- ES: And what about the vertical integration of ber of advantages. Of course, it is an additional OB: Our collection! It is just right at the moment your production? brand, but it comes from the same supplier, and matches the consumer’s expectations. Raymond Weil, with which the relationship of Our price positioning is also right and there is OB: We do not want to vertically integrate trust is already well established. For a retailer, a good balance between the different collec- more than we have already done. This means 88 Rue du Rhône offers the assurance of addi- tions, which lets the consumer understand the that we do all our R&D, design, prototyping tional sales. It is a win-win situation, as they say. advantages of each product according to its and cases internally. We purchase our mechan- price. Our strongest expansion is in mechani- ical movements from ETA, Sellita and Dubois- ES: Last question. What about China? We cal watches, for both men and women. And, Dépraz. We also have an assembly workshop hear so much about it constantly… this is happening not only in China, where the in La Chaux-de-Fonds, both for quartz and market has rapidly become very watch con- mechanical watches, where we assemble OB: After the USA, it is our number two mar- scious. Our strategy therefore is to base the between 55 and 60 per cent of our produc- ket. We have 138 sales points there and we brand on its watchmaking reputation. tion. The remainder is handled by outside con- also sell a lot to Chinese outside China. Thanks tractors. I believe that it is important to main- to our very well calculated price/quality ratio, we ES: You mentioned earlier the gradual disap- tain these external relationships since they are affected only very little by the current major pearance of traditional distributors. Given permit fruitful exchanges of experiences. phenomenon: In China, there is a lot of sell-in, this, how is the brand structured today? much less sell-out. In the case of Raymond ES: Your two sons, who manage the brand at Weil, our watches sell. O OB: We have three regional branches: one in your side, recently created a new brand called the USA, which also covers Canada; one in "88 Rue du Rhône". Is this a second Raymond For more information about Raymond Weil click Austria, which also covers Germany, Hungary, Weil brand? on Brand Index at www.europastar.com JeanRichard113_JeanRichard113 14.02.13 14:21 Page2

europa star PRE-BASEL 51

JeanRichard – a new philosophy of life

RPaul O’Neil

Since taking the hSelm of the Sowind Group as Chief Executive Officer in August 2011, Michele Sofisti has quickly made his mark on the group’s Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard brands (he had already been CEO of the group’s fashion brand, Gucci Group watches, since 2010). The first bold decision was a decampment of the two luxury brands from the SIHH to join the other Sowind brands at Michele Sofisti Bruno Grande BaselWorld from this year. Alongside continu- ous tweaks at Girard-Perregaux, his next find its place among the watchmaking elite. achieve volume and build for the long term. major decision was a comprehensive relaunch The restructuring has been radical, focusing So we divided the brand into two segments: of JeanRichard. on nothing less than a complete change in the manufacture watches on the one hand, strategy to target volume sales and build the which have our own movement, and the bulk The relaunch brand. As Mr Sofisti explains, “We wanted to of the collection on the other hand, which will For years, JeanRichard, named after Daniel create something with a very identifiable look use standard movements and be priced at JeanRichard, who counts among the exclusive that cannot be confused with other watches. around 2,500 to 4,000 Swiss francs.” fraternity of Switzerland’s oldest recorded Also, the price positioning of the brand was watchmakers, has lived in the shadow of the quite high, at 7,000 to 10,000 Swiss francs The restructuring is being overseen by Bruno better-known Girard-Perregaux, struggling to for a manufacture watch. It was difficult to Grande, the Chief Operating Officer of JeanRichard, who worked with Sofisti at Wyler Genève and is also responsible for the 1681 COLLECTION Private Label division at the Sowind Group. In concrete terms, the changes mean that JeanRichard’s flagship JR1000 manufacture movement will now constitute the top of the range in the vintage 1681 collection. This basic movement was launched in 2004 and has already proved both its reliability and its capacity to accommodate complication mod- ules. In the latest incarnation of the 1681, which is available in 41 and 44 mm case diam- eters, it is fitted with a small seconds compli- cation at 9 o’clock.

Targeting the high-volume market Beneath the 1681, everything changes. The three collections based around earth, air and 

52 PRE-BASEL europa star

such as the statue of Daniel JeanRichard in brand Gérard Margeon has researched the LeLocle as well as the master watchmaker’s earth in which the world’s finest grapevines farmhouse birthplace at Les Bressels. This grow to become an oenologist of repute. He bucolic journey, which also involved a short now manages a cellar of 5,000 bottles to cover transfer by horse and carriage, was no doubt 30 different wine lists in the restaurants of re- the best way to illustrate the “Philosophy of nowned chef Alain Ducasse. Before BaselWorld Life” concept behind the brand’s new image, JeanRichard will present its most extraordi- which is about turning time—the genuine nary ambassador yet to represent the new time that you make for yourself—into an art Aeroscope models. of living, indeed a philosophy. It is about exploring the world and nature, meeting new While this unusual choice of representatives people and cultures. for the new brand fit very well with its new concept and collection, the best ambassador Ordinary people doing of all for JeanRichard’s philosophy of life is extraordinary things arguably Mr Sofisti himself. In spite of the JeanRichard has chosen an eclectic mix of demands of running the Sowind Group and TERRASCOPE COLLECTION personalities to represent the new collection, his own consultancy, not to mention those of each of them firmly linked with one of the his young border collie Ariel, he is also an water will be completely redesigned and three elements—earth, air, water—echoed in accomplished photographer who has taken equipped with ETA movements. The first one the names of the collection. At sea, yachts- the time to document his impressions and ready for market is the Terrascope, which has man Franck Cammas has been an ambas- encounters on his numerous business and a sturdy design using a case, bezel and bracelet sador for JeanRichard since May 2011, when personal trips, work which has featured in in stainless steel. With a starting price of 2,500 the brand’s Aquascope timepiece accompa- publications and exhibitions worldwide. O Swiss francs and water resistance of 100 nied him on the 2011-2012 Volvo Ocean metres, the Terrascope is set to be the entry- Race around the world, where he skippered For more information about JeanRichard click level product of the revamped JeanRichard Groupama to victory. On land, friend of the on Brand Index at www.europastar.com collection. Aquascope and Aeroscope models will follow at BaselWorld 2013 and will be AQUASCOPE COLLECTION available for delivery from May this year. The Aquascope will be a true divers’ watch, with a helium valve and 300 metre water resistance, while the Aeroscope will be a chronograph using a Dubois-Depraz module and retailing for under 5,000 Swiss francs. All of these models will use the same case, which will ini- tially be available in stainless steel only.

Mr Grande wants JeanRichard to be a “warm, friendly and approachable” brand and went to great lengths to underscore this when he presented the “new” JeanRichard to the world’s media in November last year. With the help of the Land Rover club of Switzerland he managed to bring together some 20 vin- tage Land Rovers to ferry his guests around the Neuchâtel countryside, taking in sights 1 1 Cal. 3540.D – Chrono ⁄10 Sec., Date Cal. 3520.D – Chrono, Date Cal. 3540.D – Chrono ⁄10 Sec., Date

1 1 Chronos 10 ⁄2 x 11 ⁄2’’’ – One movement for small to big watches

NEW Series 3500 – ronda-startech.com

,QVHUDWB67BB[LQGG  

SPOTLIGHT CASIO EDIFICE ERA-200DB-1AVER

This year, Casio will once again be aiming to capitalise on its partnership with the Infiniti Red Bull Racing Formula 1 team, whose driver Sebastian Vettel has secured the past three Formula 1 world championship titles. Just in time for the start of the 2013 Formula 1 season, the Japanese brand presents a new model in its sporty Edifice collection. The high-tech timepiece in brushed stainless steel with an ion-plated bezel has red and black hands with analogue and digital read-outs that display the time, world time, stopwatch and five daily alarms. Thanks to Casio’s Twin Sensor technology, this watch is also capable of functioning as both a compass and a thermometer. 

SPOTLIGHT

www.edifice-watches.eu www.casio-europe.com BaselWorld.Interview113_BaselWorld.Interview113 14.02.13 14:03 Page2

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The new BaselWorld

RKeith W. Strandberg able to recognise it, or find the booths we have become accustomed to seeing. A new Hall 1 will be waiting for us, and each and every one of us will need a map to find our way around. At least on the first day. Sylvie Ritter, the head of the BaselWorld show, we will gain in quality, where you can really For much of life aFs we have known it, the explains what the goal of the renovation was. show your brand. Also, there will be more BaselWorld fair has been a constant, the most “We wanted to make it a better experience brands exhibiting this year than last year.” important worldwide show in the watch for everyone and to create the right environ- industry. ment for these kinds of products,” she says. Work began last year It wasn’t always like this, however. “You will see during BaselWorld 2013, once Last year, right after the show closed, demoli- When BaselWorld first opened, back in 1917, you enter the show, you will never have to tion work began. I visited Basel at the end of it wasn’t even called BaselWorld, it was called leave the show to go from one building to 2012, and the show buildings were unrecog- the Schweizer Mustermesse Basel (MUBA), a another. We have one space dedicated to the nisable. Looking a bit like a war zone, with selection of Swiss products that included some watch and jewellery brands. In 1931, “We wanted to make it a better experience for everyone and to watches and jewellery were given their own pavilion, showing the increased importance create the right environment for these kinds of products.” of this sector to the Swiss economy. For almost five decades, only Swiss products famous brands, where they can build two to buildings and walls demolished, the condition were exhibited, then in 1973 European com- three floor booths, and people can truly expe- raised questions about whether the show panies were allowed to exhibit. It wasn’t until rience the brands. would be ready in time. In fact, rumours that 1986 that companies outside Europe were “In our buildings, previously, we had a lot of BaselWorld was behind schedule recently cir- invited to participate. square footage behind the staircases and in culated throughout the industry. Luckily, Now, BaselWorld is poised to open its doors other hidden spaces,” she continues.“The real, BaselWorld opens very late this year, and Ritter to one of the most sweeping renovations and usable exhibition space has actually increased. pledges that the show will be ready in time. expansions in its illustrious history. When the It’s important to understand that with the new “We are on time and on schedule, everything show begins on April 25, many of us won’t be Hall, we will lose space in terms of figures, but is perfect,” she confirms, confidently. BaselWorld.Interview113_BaselWorld.Interview113 14.02.13 14:03 Page3

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FACTS AND FIGURES:

The Basel show dates back to 1917, with the opening of the first Schweizer Mustermesse Basel (MUBA). 1925: MUBA invited several watch manufacturers 1931: The Schweizer Uhrenmesse (Swiss Watch Show) was first held in a dedicated pavilion. 1973:The first "Europäische Uhren- und Schmuck- messe" (EUSM) (European Watch and Jewellery Show) was held within the MUBA. 1983: The show changed its name to BASEL, with two following numbers denoting the exhibition year, e.g., BASEL 83. 1986: Companies from outside Europe were included for the first time, reflecting the increased number of visitors from outside Europe. 1995: The show was renamed to BASEL 95 - The World Watch, Clock and Jewellery Show. 1999: Hall 1, with 36,000 square metres exhibi- “BaselWorld reflects the market and we will adapt and tion space, was added. change to fit the market and its needs.” 2003:The show was renamed again to BaselWorld, The Watch and Jewellery Show. 2004: With the introduction of a new hall com- Though wholesale changes have been made at least for the time being? “Every year, we plex, the exhibition area increased to 160,000 and many brands have been relocated from think we have the best show ever and it will square metres. Hall 1, Ritter hopes that the experience will be remain that way for many years,” Ritter says. 2013: The renovation and modernisation project, an improved one. “This is the dream of all show organisers the designed by Basel architects Herzog & de Meuron, “I hope you will not be confused at all,” she world over, but it really depends on the mar- has resulted in a gross exhibition surface of says. “I think people will be amazed by the ket. BaselWorld reflects the market and we 141,000 square metres. booths and the way brands are presenting will adapt and change to fit the market and themselves. It’s really hard for us to imagine its needs.” O Since BASELWORLD 2012, the old halls have been how the show could develop with this new demolished and a total of 3500 tons of steel girders, building, and we worked with the brands to Europa Star this year celebrates its 75th year 45,000 cubic metres of concrete and 5,200 tons of give the show a new face. For example, 99 per of uninterrupted presence at BaselWorld. We reinforcing steel have gone into the new complex. At times, up to eight fixed construction cranes and cent of the booths in Hall 1 will be brand new.” invite you to visit us in Hall 1.1, Stand A60. a further eight mobile cranes have been deployed A new map of the show will be available by on the construction site. the end of February at www.baselworld.com. For more information about BaselWorld click Will this be the end of changes for BaselWorld, on Brand Index at www.europastar.com

July 2011 May 2012 November 2012 Galerie_PreBasel113_1_Galeries_PreBasel113_1 15.02.13 08:57 Page2

58 GALLERY – PRE-BASEL europa star

1966 MINUTE-REPEATER by Girard-Perregaux YACHTTIMER COUNTDOWN by Alpina CONSTELLATION SEDNA by Omega The 42mm case in 18-carat red gold houses a GP E09-0003 Alpina’s new regatta timer comes with a generously propor- Sedna is the trademarked name that Omega has given to a manually-wound movement that comprises 419 individual tioned 44mm diameter stainless-steel case with a unidirec- new alloy of gold, which comprises gold, copper and palla- components and powers hour, minute, small seconds, annu- tional rotating bezel in sapphire marked with compass bear- dium and has been developed entirely in-house within the al calendar (with separate date and month indications) and ings. The regatta countdown timer function consists of a disc Swatch Group. It finds its first expression in the new equation of time functions, in addition to the minute- inside the minute scale, which can be read at a glance and Constellation Sedna model, a limited edition of 1,952 pieces repeater. The calibre operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour shows the number of minutes remaining in the countdown, that recalls the year the first Constellation was launched, and offers at least 100 hours (4 days) of power reserve. It culminating with the word “START” displayed in bright red. with the “pie pan” dial with 12 facets that is once again comes with a brown alligator leather strap and 18-carat red- The timekeeping functions are provided by the AL-880 self- found in this new model, powered by the brand’s proprietary gold pin buckle. winding movement, which is powered by a black PVD Alpina co-axial calibre 8501 with silicon balance spring. rotor. Although the movement is visible behind a sapphire crystal case-back, the watch is nevertheless guaranteed water resistant to 30 ATM, or 300 metres.

CHRONO 4 GEANT FULL INJECTION by Eberhard D-STAR CERAMIC CHRONOGRAPH by Rado The all-black look in this new limited-edition model is achieved with a DLC treatment. But It may look like a stainless-steel chronograph, but the case and bracelet of this new piece by before this is applied, the steel case is treated to a low-temperature carbon diffusion that Rado are actually made of high-tech ceramic that has undergone a special plasma treatment hardens the 46mm case. The four familiar in-line counters of Eberhard’s registered design are that gives it a sheen similar to that of platinum. During the process, which has been patented set against a back dial with a metal ring decorated with a Côtes de Genève finish and a black by Rado, gases that are activated at 20,000°C modify the chemical composition of the high- rubber strap completes the ensemble. The ETA 2894 self-winding chronograph is used as the tech ceramic, changing its surface colour but retaining all of its essential properties. The new base movement. chronograph is powered by the ETA A05.H31 calibre, which offers a power reserve of 60 hours. 

europa star PRE-BASEL GALLERY – LADIES’ WATCHES 59

ALACRIA DIVA BAMBOO by Carl F. Bucherer CHRONOGRAPH LARGE DATE by Blancpain The Lucerne-based brand uses bamboo not as a material but as an inspiration for the design Elegantly framed by a 38.6mm diameter 18-carat red-gold case with 40 sparkling diamonds of this new limited edition of 25 pieces. The 18-carat white-gold case and dial are both set set into its bezel, this new self-winding chronograph model has a mother-of-pearl dial split with orange and black baguette-cut sapphires (for a total of 173 stones) plus a further 239 on to two levels delineated by diamonds. The upper segment features an off-centre time round black and orange sapphires on the outer facets of the case. A quartz movement dis- display with Roman numerals, while the lower half bears the two chronograph counters with playing the hours and minutes powers this timepiece, which is completed by an orange alli- oversized Arabic numerals. The large date windows at 6 o’clock take the form of two oppos- gator leather strap with a white-gold pin buckle. ing crescents and display the date with a distinctive font. It is powered by Blancpain Calibre 26F8G, a mechanical self-winding movement composed of 495 parts that offers a 40-hour power reserve.

SUGAR by de Grisogono GUCCI COUPE by Gucci The models in the new Sugar collection stand out because of their original bezels, which are This new model is a ladies’ version of the brand’s famous Coupé timepiece for men and is set half-set with precious stones, while the other half is in constant movement due to different- with 60 diamonds (approx. 0.42 carats) on the flange of the dial. With a vintage look defined sized stones in their own individual settings which are interlinked and spill out over the bot- by the model’s rounded square case, the Gucci identity is reaffirmed by the Gucci logo and tom of the bezel. A bold use of blue or orange sapphires, emeralds and diamonds, combined the “GG” pattern on the grey mother-of-pearl dial, whose only other adornment is the hour with matching mother-of-pearl or fully-paved dials allows for a total of ten models, all with markers and three hands. The “GG” pattern also appears on the inner lining of the matching an 18-carat gold case and a matching galuchat strap. grey crocodile leather strap. A Swiss Made Ronda movement ensures the timekeeping. Service_PatekPhilippe113_v2_Service_PatekPhilippe113_v2 27.02.13 09:29 Page2

60 SERVICE, PLEASE! europa star

Patek Philippe : patrimonial service

RInterview conducted by Pierre Maillard

piece is a value that is transmitted from gen - eration to generation.

ES: You are not content then to merely wait In 2012, Patek PhilipIpe launched a vast mar - until the watches are sent to you for repairs… keting campaign based not on any single new product, but rather on the notion of service itself. LC: No, our service is involved upstream in all For the occasion, the brand established a web - phases of the development and production of site dedicated to this theme, one that provides a watch. We intervene right from the begin - a wealth of explanations, videos, and practical ning, collaborating with the developers, the information ( http://patek-institutional.com ). Laurent Cantin methods unit, and the technical bureau. A representative of Customer Service is present Why did the venerable Geneva-based brand Laurent Cantin: It seems to me that it is in all the development teams. Because of our decide to undertake such a project? To learn important to differentiate the current notion position, we receive a lot of comments from more, Europa Star talked with Laurent Cantin, of “repairer” during the watch’s guarantee people’s experience and are thus very active in head of Customer Service at the family manu - period from the much broader dimension that terms of quality feedback that comes directly facture. A qualified watchmaker by training, we give to the notion of service: a dimension from the field. In addition, in the downstream Laurent Cantin “has worked in after-sales that is truly patrimonial. I believe that we are direction, we conduct major activities aimed ser vice for 23 years,” as he says, but did not the only one to offer the possibility of repair - at our clients. Today, an important and daily come onboard at Patek Philippe until 2006. ing or restoring absolutely all of the watches problem is that of educating the client. Aside produced by Patek Philippe during its 174 from informed aficionados, who possess a real Europa Star: Your first action, completely years of existence. For us, Service is a strategic culture of watchmaking, many clients do not emblematic, was to rename “Customer Service”, element of development. It goes far beyond a have a clear understanding of their watch or that which was previously called, as it is nearly simple message. It is a real willingness, a phi - of the quality mechanical movements that we everywhere, “After-Sales Service”. What does losophy of action, which aims to solidify what produce. Often, it happens that we are asked this semantic difference signify? we unceasingly repeat: a Patek Philippe time - to simply replace a watch, which at first glance seems to no longer be working. Sometimes, it happens that the owner wears his automatic watch to bed and then does not understand why it has stopped working… (laughs)

ES: The education of the client is thus primor - dial...

LC: I often use the comparison of the auto - mobile. Everyone fully understands that a car needs a complete service every 15,000 kilo - metres, or on average once a year. These same people, however, often do not understand that a watch, whose “engine” runs 24 hours a day, also requires regular servicing, once every three to five years, and also that it needs lubrication, Service_PatekPhilippe113_v2_Service_PatekPhilippe113_v2 27.02.13 09:29 Page3

europa star SERVICE, PLEASE! 61

“The particularity of Patek Philippe is that Customer Service is not at all considered as a “profit centre”.”

for example. It is really as simple as that. But ES: In this regard, what is the rate of return ES: How does a centre become certified? What to make them understand and accept this for watches under guarantee? are the criteria? basic notion is already a considerable task. Approximately one client in three still does LC: Very low, on average from 2.7 to 2.8 per LC: If an independent watch centre wishes to not understand the necessity for servicing. cent. This also includes all the watches that be certified by us, it must meet very precise cri - were mishandled. The job of the head of teria, not only in terms of watchmaking compe - ES: On the other hand, we often hear com - Customer Service would lend itself perfectly tency, but also in terms of the work environ - plaints about the costs and the long wait to that of a novelist. Some of the stories that ment (lighting, colours, no carpeting on the times for watchmaking after-sales service, in we hear are really far-fetched. floor), technical equipment, human resources, general… and logistics. It must also purchase a minimum ES: In specific terms, how is the Customer stock of component parts. This process also has LC: The particularity of Patek Philippe is that Service department organised, here in Geneva several steps involved in validation. We conduct Customer Service is not at all considered as a and in the various markets? an audit, and then write a report containing “profit centre”. Moreover, today, in fact, we certain recommendations. Finally a training lose money, but the notion of service sur - LC: To give you some numbers, we have 58 phase is carried out in Geneva, lasting a mini - passes everything, whatever the price. The certified centres in 36 countries on all the mum of four weeks that we pay for completely. service and repair time for a simple mechani - continents. This involves 250 people, includ - During the entire process, this relationship can

cal movement at Patek Philippe is at least five ing the 97 who work in Geneva and repre - be cancelled at any time since the basic idea is to six hours of pure watchmaking time, for a sents absolutely all the watch métiers. In to be able to establish a veritable partnership. O cost of about CHF 660. In this total amount 2012, we made 63,000 repairs and services, Read more about Patek Philippe’s authorised we do not charge for polishing, cleaning, an increase of 7 to 8 per cent per year. Given service centres and European Union pressure assembly, checks, administration, logistics, this, we do not want to expand our network on universal component supply in the complete etc. As for the long wait times, you have to too much because we must control it very interview online. count from four weeks, for the watches still strictly. The competencies and services must [Editor’s note: Europa Star will devote a specific report to under guarantee, to eight weeks. This is long, be absolutely the same everywhere. And, you Patek Philippe’s restoration centre, a veritable living conser - you may say, but you must also realise that all are aware of the difficulties in finding really vatory featuring all the traditional professions and know- how in the realm of watchmaking.] the repaired pieces are subjected to the same qualified watchmakers in some parts of the quality control process as the pieces in pro - world. In parenthesis, we are opening a new For more information about Patek Philippe click duction, and this takes fifteen days. training centre in China. on Brand Index at www.europastar.com Service_Usa113_ServicePlease113 14.02.13 14:39 Page2

62 SERVICE, PLEASE! europa star

Stoll & Company, America’s Watchmakers Communication is key No matter who the end customer is, manag- RKeith W. Strandberg ing after sales service and customer service in general is vital. “After sales service and cus- tomer service is everything,” Stoll says. “No matter the price of any watch, people pur- chase watches according to the amount of disposable income they have, and it becomes In the last issue, weI profiled the after sales an important possession of theirs. When service/customer service approach of Piaget. something goes wrong with their timepiece, This issue, we take a look at another way of keeping the customer satisfied depends on handling service and watch repair, as a third how quick the repair can be completed and, party vendor. Europa Star talked with Ron most importantly, the quality of the service. Stoll, president, founder and owner of Stoll & Ron Stoll Communications with customers is critical; Company (www.americaswatchmaker.com). you can’t let the people think they have been Established in 1982, Stoll & Company pro- then 100. We didn’t go out and try to solicit forgotten. Service has the potential to be a vides watch repair services to watch brands, business, we built the business based on our negative, but with efficient communication watch retailers and individual consumers merit and passion for watchmaking, and it you can turn it into a positive.” across the globe. In addition, Stoll is the North grew from there. For Stoll & Company, communication is key. American president of Carl F. Bucherer watch “Today, we receive around 140,000 watches They strive to stay on top of the communica- company, and Stoll & Company does all of a year,” he continues. “We do all types of repairs tions and if there is a problem, or a delay, they Carl F. Bucherer’s after sales service. – we service watches in all price categories update the customer immediately. I caught up with Stoll in his offices in Dayton, but specialise in servicing prestigious time- “One of things that we have found is that you Ohio, USA. pieces. This allows us to hire people at differ- are better off to staff more people on your “32 years ago, I was attempting to make a liv- ent skill levels. We have 60 employees. We do customer service side, and invest the money ing fixing watches, then the company devel- individual repairs, we work for retail jewellers in your IT, to keep adequate communication oped from there,” he explains. “There wasn’t a and we do authorised warranty and repair with the retailer or the end consumer,” Stoll blueprint or plan, it just progressed naturally. I work for niche brands like Alpina, Frédérique details. “If you are proactive, it’s the least started out with one watch to fix, then one Constant, Porsche Design, Anonimo and Carl expensive way to address an issue. If a watch day I had two watches to fix, then it was ten, F. Bucherer.” is in for a significant period of time, you can BECOME ENWRAP TURED

We create customized boxes for fine timepieces, jewelry, spirits, eyewear, writing instruments and any other luxury items, whatever the shape, material or opening mechanism.

THE FINE ART OF BESPOKE BOXES www.technew.ch GENEVA - SWITZERLAND

TEC-12-2363_AD_EuropaStar_205x265_EN.indd 1 23.07.12 17:27 Service_Usa113_ServicePlease113 14.02.13 14:39 Page3

64 SERVICE, PLEASE! europa star

Client

Package Scanned

Waiting Waiting Estimate Estimate For Received For Complete guarantee that the consumer and the retailer Estimate Approval will contact you. If you communicate well, the Estimate Rush Approved Comeback Estimate phones don’t ring, there is no pressure and No Material Warranty Approved Required Order everyone is happy. We have always paid par- Material ticular attention to the communication end of Order Waiting Material Waiting Estimate For For customer service. For example, a regular main- Material Declined Assignment Material Received tenance service usually takes between 30 and

45 days. If you are upfront with the customer Assign Failed Technician Inspection that this is what it is going to take, and if you adhere to it, you won’t have a problem.” Repair Quality Passed Assigned Work Completed Control Inspection Completed Tracking

Stoll and Company has a sophisticated RFID sys- Invoice Created Packing Slip Created tem of tracking so that the company knows at Label Created any time where a watch is in the repair process. Package “We look at a watch coming in for repair as a Scanned Invoiced Given To Shipped piece of produce, as soon as it hits our door, it Shipper starts to deteriorate,” Stoll explains. “The Package Scanned Package Given To Delivered quicker we can turn it around, the more prof- Client

itable it is. We try to get the estimates done in Client 24 hours and communicated back to the place of origin. Sometimes you have to get a to be shipped, then the system tracks the had an individual who had sent his watch special component and check on a price, so watch through all the steps. We can control back to the factory many times and sent it to that may delay it, but 90 per cent of all our and monitor it so that things don’t fall between other watch service companies, and it was estimates are done within 24 hours. the cracks. Over our 32 years, every day there never fixed to his satisfaction,” Stoll remem- “We transmit the estimates by fax or email is a different challenge, because something new bers. “Then he found us and we were able to and on the estimate, we give them the num- happens, we acknowledge and respond to these fix his watch. That made us feel accomplished. ber of days it will take to complete the repair,” challenges so it doesn’t reoccur again. Every “We also receive timepieces for service which he continues. “Our computer system auto- day we try to do better than the day before.” the manufactures no longer support and will not matically schedules the job for when it needs Stoll has his fair share of success stories. “We repair.” he continues. “We have a lot of spare

FACTS AND FIGURES:

Stoll & Company USA www.americaswatchmaker.com, 1 800 786 5526 Number of employees: 60 Watches serviced per month (average): around 11,000 (140,000 per year) Factory authorised service centre for: Alain Silberstein, Alpina, Anonimo, B Swiss, Bertolucci, Bucherer, Carl F. Bucherer, Delance, Delbana, Delma, Frédérique Constant, Michel Herbelin, Porsche Design, Xantia and more. Price of repairs: Anywhere from $20 to $5,000, wholesale. 95 per cent of all their work is wholesale. Total watches serviced: 1.5 million Service warranty: 12 months Service_Usa113_ServicePlease113 14.02.13 14:39 Page4

europa star SERVICE, PLEASE! 65

“There is always something new to learn, a new customer who has an interesting timepiece to service,...”

parts that enable us to service these time- cedures, they can then go to the next level and edges that it is hard for sales people to com- pieces. We aren’t any better than anyone else, continue to advance. We have an advantage in municate about the future need for service what makes us different is that we try harder.” that we can train the workforce ourselves.” when trying to sell the watch. Counterfeit watches are becoming a bigger “In the last several years, brands have invested Challenges problem. “Unfortunately, because of the many more in their service facilities, thus allowing Even though Stoll & Company is independent, similarities of counterfeit watches produced them to maintain a better relationship with the company still faces challenges when deal- today, we do see watches sent in where the their customers," Stoll says. “Each day there ing with watches from certain brands. “Some owner is unaware that it is counterfeit,” Stoll will be more watches to service than there was manufactures do not want third party service says. Stoll and Company will not service any the day before. Every company's challenge is centres servicing their timepieces and will not counterfeit products. finding people capable of servicing watches. sell spare parts. This is a challenge for us, where Stoll is in the repair business, not the delivery Because of production capabilities today and even some simple repairs cannot be completed business, so when a repair is done, he depends the demand for mechanical watches, these due to the lack of available parts.” on delivery companies to handle that aspect. watches will all need service.” Finding the right workers is a challenge for “FedEx, UPS and the US postal system are the Stoll, as watch repair is very people intensive. three players and we use all three of them,” Stoll loves what he does and looks forward to In fact, the average number of people who Stoll details. We decide who the carrier is coming to work every day. “There is always touch a watch during its repair process at unless the client specifies who they want to something new to learn, a new customer who Stoll & Company is 15, more for more compli- handle the logistics. Everything we send back has an interesting timepiece to service,” he cated pieces. requires a signature, and our insurance covers says, enthusiastically. “I love what I am doing. “It’s challenging to find the qualified techni- the delivery. If you are shipping back a $50,000 Children have a teddy bear they carry with cians,” Stoll admits. “It used to be that we watch, you want to make sure it’s signed for them to feel secure, my security in life is having could scout the world for the finest watch- by the right person.” a watch in my hand, whether it’s a new watch makers, but it’s more challenging now that or a broken watch, that I can then fix. immigration laws have changed. At the same The future “I love the challenges, and the encounters with time, we receive a large volume of repairs, More and more mechanical watches are being new customers. We get a lot of nice accolades which allows us to employ people at all skill sold, so that means that more watches will from customers about what we did for them,” levels and we aim to hire people that are eventually need to be serviced. All mechanical he adds. “It makes you feel good, it touches mechanically inclined, have superb hand-eye watches require service at some point, and Stoll your soul to know that people acknowledge coordination and good dexterity and train feels that consumers need to be more aware what we do. It’s nice to know that you are them internally. We start them with simple pro- of the upkeep that is needed. He acknowl- doing something that people appreciate.” O RetailerProfile113_v2_RetailerProfile113_v2 27.02.13 09:58 Page2

66 RETAILER PROFILE europa star

Talking Turkey – Saat & Saat in Istanbul

RKeith W. Strandberg ES: How is the high end different from the fashion brand market? RK: I love to learn, and we will gain a lot of experience. We are always improving. We have to choose the right point of sales to get the right service and presentation. Our sales people are Istanbul is a bustlingI, thriving city – full of life, very important. Then we have to have the right business and excitement. In the heart of this merchandising, the right advertising channels. city, the only one in the world to span two With TAG Heuer, for example, there are some continents (Europe and Asia) is the Saat & points of sale that are better than Saat & Saat Company, run by Ramazan Kaya, presi - Saat. I have to be objective. I am not happy dent. Saat & Saat has its hands in just about Ramazan Kaya that some Saat & Saat stores are not at that every part of the watch business – the com - standard yet. If there is a retailer who is better pany is a distributor for brands in Turkey (sell - ES: You just recently acquired LPI to distribute than Saat & Saat or Campanola, we can work ing wholesale to other retailers), has its own high-end watches. Is this a direction in which with them. For us, the most important thing is retail stores, works with department stores you want to move? the brand, so we look at who is best for the and does its own service. Saat & Saat recently RK: We are already very strong in fashion brand. We look at the strengths and weak - bought the distributor LPI Turkey, adding brands. Our weakest point is high end. With nesses of each store, whether it is ours or not, Maurice Lacroix and TAG Heuer to the stable this new company, we are showing the high- to decide where to put it. of brands it distributes in Turkey. end brands we are going to be a big player. Europa Star met with Mr. Kaya in his offices in Turkey is becoming a bigger market. In a very ES: Is it difficult to manage being a distributor Istanbul to find out more about the Saat & short time, Turkey will be a major vacation and a retailer? Saat operation. destination, so we believe that we should be RK: When you look at Saat & Saat, we do so in the high-end business in Turkey. We don’t many different things – we are a distributor, ES: Please give us the background of your think the competition is doing it well enough, we have general retailers, we have higher end company. which gives us opportunity. retailers, we have jewellery wholesale and RK: In 1994, we started distributing Adidas watches. We got into retail because that is where the world was and is going. We started in 2006 with one store, and now we have 82 Saat & Saat stores. By the end of next year, we will have 100 of our own stores, and we will be in a total of 155 points of sale.

ES: What is particular about the Turkish market? RK: The wholesale market is very difficult here. We have to give huge credit terms and big margins. The retailers also like to give dis - counts. The strength of the market is that peo - ple know watches. The Turkish customer is a great watch customer, very knowledgeable and likes to bargain. We have our standard discounts, like 15 per cent if they pay cash, but we don’t go below that, unless it’s a liqui - dation sale. RetailerProfile113_v2_RetailerProfile113_v2 27.02.13 09:58 Page3

europa star RETAILER PROFILE 67

retail, we have kiosks in the shopping malls, we work with department stores where we run our stores, we have on-line sales and we have individual retailers for distribution. This is a benefit for our customers, because they only have to deal with us and they know the quality and standard of our company.

ES: What is the secret of your success? work with the right designer, God help you. don’t want to risk it, because we don’t want RK: Wanting success so much. We wanted Product design is the most important thing in customer complaints and we don’t want to to be a key player in the industry and that is the watch industry. harm our future. Even so, I cannot make every - the reason we concentrate so much and we one happy. Sometimes, the watch is eight have success today. In 1999, we became a real ES: Who is your customer? years old and the customer wants me to solve retailer. We have had some really big difficulties RK: Mostly, the young generation, 50 – 50 men his problems and you don’t have spare parts becoming a retailer, because department stores and women. We reach other consumers too, bu t and the brand takes time to ship the spare didn’t care about us. In 2008 and 2009, during the young generation is stronger than the older parts, and the customer starts to complain. the crisis, most of the retailers were afraid and generation. Young customers, once they get into If I have any e-mails from customers or retail - stepped back. We pressed the accelerator and the Saat & Saat family, they will stay with us. ers concerning after sales service, I pay atten - every two weeks we opened a new store, and tion and follow up on them right away. where stores left, we went in. Then everyone ES: How important is after sales service? began paying attention to us, and they started RK: Very important and not fair. We have an ES: Are you optimistic about the future? to give nice locations to us. Now, we are the average of nine days between receiving and RK: In ten years time, we will have 500 points biggest retail player in Turkey. The number two sending it back to the customer, which is really of sales here in Turkey, so I am very optimistic has 12 stores, and most of them are franchisees. good timing. That’s why we have over 50 peo - about the future. There are brands we would ple in the after sales service department. For love to carry in Turkey. Saat & Saat would like ES: What is the biggest challenge facing your us, after sales service is not a profit centre. I to carry the brands that are performing well company right now? around the world but not in Turkey. We could RK: Finding high quality, knowledgeable help those brands here. With TAG and Maurice employees is a challenge. For retail, it’s a night - Lacroix, it’s a good chance for us to prove that mare. If you have the right person in your FACTS AND FIGURES: we can do higher end brands. store, the turnover can go up 30 per cent, but Saat & Saat operations: • 82 Saat & Saat stores if you have the wrong person it can go down. • 8 Campanola stores, ES: What brands would you like to carry that The most important thing in retail is the • 45 Department stores (25 Boyner, 19 YKM, 1 Bigmall) you don’t right now? employee. We work with the trainers, the con - • 13 Saat & Saat Kiosks RK: We don’t want to be a brand collector. • 5 Pandora shops sultants, we spend money on the employees, Saat and Saat supplies 400 wholesale doors (indepen - We get inquiries every week from the brands. and then the next day they leave, because dent retailers) across the country. If we have one brand that is not performing Total turnover is approximately 50 per cent Saat & Saat they are all young and they don’t have much operations and 50 per cent by independent retailers. well in Turkey, we stop it. We have never lost responsibility or loyalty. We always have to Employees: 750 any brands, because we follow the rules. have extra people, and that costs money, but Size of store: average size is 60m2 What the brand owner wants, we try to do. Range of price: US$150 - US$10,000 we have to make the investment. Best selling watches: Guess, Diesel, Fossil Brands: TAG Heuer, Maurice Lacroix, Burberry, Thanks to Mr. Kaya and his staff for their hos - ES: What is the biggest challenge facing the Emporio Armani, U-Boat, Gc, Welder, Cerutti 1881, pitality and their willingness to give Europa Pandora, Glam Rock, Tommy Hilfiger, Guess, Diesel, watch industry right now? Donna Karan, Michael Kors, Jacques Lemans, Citizen, Star insight into their organisation. O RK: Designs. Design is the big risk. If you find Esprit, Fossil, Adidas. a beautiful design, you are flying. If you don’t Read the full interview on www.europastar.com 

68 WORLDWATCHWEB europa star.com

Global consumer interest for haute horlogerie increases by 7 per cent, fuelled by BRIC and Asian markets

RTamar Koifman, Head of Marketing, Digital Luxury Group

Every year on the occasion of the Salon International BRIC + Asian markets represent nearly 50 per de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Digital Luxury Group cent of haute horlogerie global brand interest unveils the results of the haute horlogerie cate- Of the 20 markets analyzed in the study, nearly half (47 per cent) E gory* of the WorldWatchReport™, which tracks of global interest for haute horlogerie stems from in-the-spotlight and analyzes the global online interest for luxury watches. markets Brazil, Russia, India, China, Singapore, Thailand, Hong Kong, and Taiwan. Mainland China on its own comprises 31 per Tracking the online interest expressed through search engines for cent of the global demand or twice as much as the US market, eighteen brands across twenty international markets, a total of over increasing by 27 per cent. 30 million individual searches for this category, has allowed for the uncovering of some very interesting haute horlogerie trends. Consumer interest for haute horlogerie in mature markets, US and Japan, declining Interest for haute horlogerie brands continues A downward trend was observed in the weight that mature lux- to grow (+ 7 per cent year-on-year) ury watch markets the US (down by 10.6 per cent) and Japan Compared to the previous year, the highest-end category of lux- (down by 11.7 per cent) represent in the global breakdown. ury watches, haute horlogerie, experienced a 7 per cent increase While relative share of demand has progressively shrunk in the in brand interest. “This marks the third year in a row that the past three years in most established markets, for the first time online interest of this highest-end segment of luxury watches has since the report’s launch in 2004, an absolute decline in domes- increased, showing the continued strength of haute horlogerie tic demand in the US and Japan is observed. within the overall market,” indicates Florent Bondoux, Head of Strategy & Intelligence at Digital Luxury Group. Geographic search breakdown for haute horlogerie by market

(© Digital Luxury Group, Jan.-Sept. 2012) 

europa star.com WORLDWATCHWEB 69

“2012 has been a year of stabilisation in the U.S. Affluents have Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak reinforces been focused on the presidential campaign and the tax hikes sur- its leadership as the top watch model among rounding the fiscal cliff. Tourist shopping, notably from Latin haute horlogerie brands globally America, should offset domestic demand slowdowns and repre- The Royal Oak, reinforcing its leading position of last year, con- sent a major growth driver in the region,” explains David Sadigh, tinues its reign as the most sought-after haute horlogerie watch Founder & CEO of the Digital Luxury Group. model, increasing its online interest by 5 per cent over the last year, likely an effect of the increased communications surround- Patek Philippe leading by far ing the icon’s 40th anniversary. Though the Royal Oak leads glob- the haute horlogerie segment ally, local preferences arise for other models in markets such as Patek Philippe remains by far the leading haute horlogerie watch Japan (Girard-Perregaux’s 1945), China (Vacheron Constantin’s brand with 23.6 per cent of brand interest share. Jaeger- Overseas), and Russia (Blancpain’s Leman). LeCoultre takes the second spot with 12.7 per cent, closely fol- lowed by Vacheron Constantin at 12.6 per cent, Audemars Piguet at 9.2 per cent and Breguet at 7.7 per cent. Top 10 most sought-after Along with Richard Mille (see below), Vacheron Constantin and haute horlogerie collections in 2012 Patek Philippe also record the highest growth rates in brand interest year-on-year, with 26 per cent and 10.2 per cent growth, respectively.

23.6% The most popular haute horlogerie brands in 2012 12.6% 12.7% 9.2% 7.7% 6.5% 5.9% 4.3% 4.0% 3.8% 2.6% 2.2% 1.4% 1.2% 1.0% 0.8% 0.6% 0.2% Bovet Breguet Blancpain Parmigiani De Bethune Jaquet Droz Jaquet Richard Mille Roger Dubuis Franck Muller Franck Ulysse Nardin Patek Philippe Patek Greubel Forsey For more information about the WorldWatchReport™, Jaeger-LeCoultre Girard-Perregaux Audemars Piguet A.Lange & Söhne Glashütte Original

Vacheron Constantin Vacheron published annually by Digital Luxury Group, please visit www.worldwatchreport.com. Richard Mille is the fastest growing haute horlogerie brand * The haute horlogerie category brands tracked in this preview Founded in 2001, Richard Mille is the fastest growing haute hor- report: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Bovet, logerie brand (+61 per cent over last year), followed by Vacheron Breguet, De Bethune, Franck Muller, Girard-Perregaux, Glashütte Constantin (+26 per cent) and Patek Philippe (+10 per cent). Original, Greubel Forsey, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz, Parmigiani, “Assuming Richard Mille manages to keep its momentum and Patek Philippe, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron growth rate, the company could easily become one of the top 5 Constantin. (Other brands exhibiting at the Salon International haute horlogerie brands by 2020,” predicts Sadigh. “This is a de la Haute Horlogerie such as Cartier, IWC, Panerai, and Piaget, brand with a strong breadth of exclusive products and an equally have not been analysed in this year’s preview research after a strong PR-driven marketing approach focused on events and revised brand segmentation, the results of which will be released celebrity endorsements. Richard Mille is a brand to watch.” in April at the time of BaselWorld). Index113_Index113 27.02.13 10:34 Page2

Editorial & Advertisers’ index

88 Rue du Rhône 50 Emile Chouriet COVER III (Intl.) COVER III (Eur.) Pandora 67 Managing Director: Philippe Maillard A, B Emporio Armani 67 Panerai 23, 25, 29, 30, EDITORIAL Ace Jewelers 45-47 Esprit 67 47, 69 Editor-in-Chief: Pierre M. Maillard • [email protected] Adidas 66, 67 ETA 42, 43, 52, 58 Parmigiani 20, 25, 26, Senior Editor: D. Malcolm Lakin • [email protected] Alain Silberstein 64 La Fabrique du Temps 31, 47, 69 International Editor: Keith W. Strandberg • [email protected] A. Lange & Söhne 24, 19 Patek Philippe 34, 47, Managing Editor: Paul O’Neil • [email protected] 29, 34, 47, 69 Fossil 67 60-61, 69, 72 Editorial Consultant: Casey Bayandor • [email protected] Alpina 42, 58, 62, 64 Franck Muller 69 Piaget 25, 26, 28, 30, Asst. Publisher: Nathalie Glattfelder • [email protected] Anonimo 62, 64 François-Paul Journe 47 69 CONTRIBUTORS Antoine Martin 40 Frédérique Constant 40, Porsche Design 62, 64 • Italy: Paolo de Vecchi • Germany: Gerhard Claussen, Timm Delfs Ateliers de Monaco 40, 42, 43, 62, 64 • France: Antoine Menusier • Australia: Martin Foster • Russia: Vyacheslav Medvedev 42 R, S • Portugal: Miguel Seabra • Romania: George Gisca • China: Jean-Luc Adam Audemars Piguet 23, G, H Rado 47, 58 • Art & Techniques of Watchmaking: Jean-Claude Nicolet 24, 30, 32, 47, 69 Gc 67 Ralph Lauren COVER I, BaselWorld 28, 38, 42, Geneva Time Exhibition 12-15, 30, 31 ART Alexis Sgouridis • [email protected] 48, 51, 56-57 32, 36, 40, 45, 46, 47 Raymond Weil 49-50 Dummy: Fonderie Grafix, Geneva Baume & Mercier 28, 47 Gérald Genta 28 RGM 44 Bertolucci 64 Girard-Perregaux 51, Richard Mille 20, 22, MARKETING & CIRCULATION PRINT/E-MEDIA Blancpain 32, 59, 69 58, 69 31, 47, 69 Marketing & Circulation Director: Nathalie Glattfelder • [email protected] Boegli 42 Glam Rock 67 Richemont Group 18, Marketing & Circulation Manager: Jocelyne Bailly • [email protected] Bomberg 10-11 Glashütte Original 69 29 PUBLISHING & PRODUCTION PRINT/E-MEDIA Bovet 69 Greubel Forsey 22, 31, Roger Dubuis 23, 24, Advertising Manager: Laurence Chatenoud • [email protected] Breguet 32, 47, 69 47, 69 26, 29, 69 Editorial, Production & Advertising Coordinator: Talya Lakin • [email protected] Breitling 47 Gucci 51, 59 Rolex COVER II, 1 ADVERTISING / INTERNATIONAL SALES MANAGERS B Swiss 64 Guess Watches 67 (Eur.), 47 Switzerland / Italy / US: Casey K. Bayandor. Bucherer 64 Harold W. SA 43 Romain Gauthier 9 Tel: +41 22 307 78 37 Fax: +41 22 300 37 48 • [email protected] Burberry 67 Hautlence 32, 34 Ronda 53, 59 Europe & International: Nathalie Glattfelder. Heritage Watch Saat & Saat 66-67 Tel: +41 22 307 78 37 Fax: +41 22 300 37 48 • [email protected] C, D Manufactory 35, 47 Seiko 38 Spain: Carles Sapena, Sisserou s.l. Tel & Fax: +34 93 112 7113 • [email protected] Carl F. Bucherer 5, 59, Hermès 20 SIHH 16, 18, 20, 23, Asia: Maggie Tong Tel: +852 9658 1830 Fax: +852 2527 5189 • [email protected] 62, 64 H. Moser & Cie. 32, 34, 24, 25, 26, 28, 30, 31, Ukraine: Sergiy Kuzmenko Cartier 18, 27, 28, 47, 69 46 32, 45 Tel: +38 044 205 4089 Fax: +38 044 205 4099 • [email protected] Casio 54-55 Hublot 32, 36 Sowind Group 51 Celsius 32, 47 Stoll & Company 62, ACCOUNTING Centagora 35 I, J 64-65 Business Manager: Catherine Giloux. Tel: +41 22 307 78 48 • [email protected] Century 42, 43 Ice-Watch 41 Swatch Group 32 Credit Manager: Alexandra Montandon. Tel: +41 22 307 78 47 • [email protected] Cerutti 1881 67 Ikepod 47 MAGAZINES Chanel COVER II, 1 IWC 23, 26, 29, 46, 47, T, U Europa Star - Europe - International - USA & Canada - China - Latin America / Spain - (Intl.) 2-3 (Eur.) 69 TAG Heuer 32, 34, 37, Ukraine, Europa Star Première, Bulletin d’informations, Eurotec, CIJ International Jewellery China Watch & Clock Fair Jacques Lemans 67 38, 47, 66, 67 Trends & Colours 71 Jaeger-LeCoultre 31, Technew 63 WEBSITES Chinese Timekeeper, The 47, 69 Technotime 43 www.worldwatchweb.com, www.europastar.com, www.watch-aficionado.com, 46 Jaquet Droz 69 Tissot 47 www.watches-for-china.com, www.horalatina.com, www.europastar.es, www.europastar- Christophe Claret 32 JeanRichard 17, 51-52 Titoni 21 watch.ru, www.CIJintl.com, eurotec-online.com Citizen 33, 67 Tommy Hilfiger 67 Head office: Cousins 71 L, M Tudor COVER IV Europa Star HBM SA, Route des Acacias 25, CH-1227 Carouge/Geneva - Switzerland Cyrus 40 Laurent Ferrier 36 U-Boat 67 Tel +41 22 307 78 37, Fax +41 22 300 37 48, www.europastar.com. Daniel Roth 28 Longines 47 Ulysse Nardin 69 Help Desk: [email protected] De Bethune 32, 34, 39, Louis Moinet 40 Urwerk 32, 38, 39, 47 69 LVMH 19 Subscriptions, one year 6 issues, CHF 100 Europe, CHF 140 International. www.europastar.com/subscribe de Grisogono 59 Magellan 40 V, W Delance 64 Maurice Lacroix 66, 67 Vacheron Constantin 2- Delbana 64 MB&F 47 3 (Intl.), 19, 20, 34, 69 Delma 64 MELB Holding 32, 34 Van Cleef & Arpels 19, DeWitt 6-7 Michael Kors 67 30 Diesel 67 Michel Herbelin 64 Vianney Halter 37 Dietrich 40 Milus 43, 44 Vogard 34, 35 Digital Luxury Group 8, Montblanc 24, 25, 31, Welder 67 68-69 47 Wyler Genève 51 Donna Karan 67 Printed in Geneva by SRO-KUNDIG O, P X, Z Audited REMP2012 / FRP 2012 Copyright 2013 EUROPA STAR E, F Omega 47, 58 Xantia 64 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without Eberhard 58 Orient Watch Company Zenith 32, 36, 37 the written permission of Europa Star. Index113_Index113 27.02.13 10:36 Page3 Lakin@Large113_Lakin@Large113 14.02.13 14:26 Page2

72 LAKIN@LARGE europa star

Times Square squared

At the beginning of December with the temperature hovering around 51,000 people walked over the clock daily. Given that the numbers will 15 to 16 degrees Celsius in Menton, I was told by a very persuasive have increased dramatically since then, let’s say it now averages out to lady that we were off to New York for a week. I fought valiantly, but 75,000 people a day, that means around 1,806,750,000 people have lost and before you could say ‘Have a nice day’, I was in a mile-long walked and stamped across its face over the last century. They don’t queue waiting to go through immigration at Kennedy Airport. make ’em like that anymore! New York is an amazing city, full of weird and wonderful people, taxi All of which reminds me of a story about a man walking in Times drivers that barely speak English – or as Rex Harrison said in My Fair Square when he checks his watch to find it has stopped. He looks Lady, Americans haven’t spoken English for years – surprising sites, around but doesn’t see a clock and asks a man the time. towering buildings and literally hundreds of clocks from the mundane The man drops to the ground saying, “Just a second,” pulls out what to the unexpected. looks like a conductor’s baton, sticks it in the crack between two paving The photograph below shows Tourneau, New York’s largest watch stones, extracts a carpenter’s level to ensure the baton is perfectly emporium with its nineteen-clock storefront: a large clock showing vertical, then takes a compass from his pocket, locates north and as in local time and eighteen smaller clocks indicating the time in various days of yore gets the precise length of the shadow cast by the stick time zones around the world. using a retractable tape measure.

Where Broadway and 7th Avenue converge you find the bustling and He then takes out a slide rule from his inside pocket, makes a quick cal- much-photographed Times Square. Here amidst the thousands of culation and as he clambers to his feet putting away all the parapherna- tourists you’ll see the Naked Cowboy protecting his extremities with a lia states confidently, “It’s exactly two twenty-seven in the afternoon.” white guitar, white Stetson and cowboy boots singing in an arctic Suitably impressed by this calculation the man sets his watch, gives it a temperature, people dressed as Mickey Mouse, Donald Duck and the shake to ensure it is now working and says, “That’s quite a remarkable Statue of Liberty. But the winner was a man giving away photocopies of calculation you did there. But what do you do if it’s overcast or raining a Rolex watch but asking for a dollar for a photocopy of the guarantee. and there’s no shadow?” Further downtown, sitting between Ground Zero and Wall Street and The man points to his wrist and says, “In that case I’d look at Patek!” on the corner of Broadway and Maiden Lane, there’s a watch and Well, you’ve got to laugh haven’t you? jewellery store called William Barthman. Established in 1884, the owner decided in 1899 to set into what the Americans call the side- walk and we call the pavement a mechanical clock that to this day is D. Malcolm Lakin controlled and serviced from a passage underneath. A very thick Roving Editor glass set into a brass and steel bezel bearing the name of the shop protects the dial from a century of attacks by vandals. It’s no longer mechanical; today it functions using an electric motor. In 1946, the New York Police Department estimated that on average