C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS MARCH 2015 NO. 234 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

20TH ANNIVERSARY ISSUE! GRENADA SAILING WEEK 2015

See story on page 20 TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 KEN DYER

The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore www.caribbeancompass.com MARCH 2015 • NUMBER 234 TIM WRIGHT Happy Birthday! 20 Years of Compass ...... 4 SALLY ERDLE DEPARTMENTS Info & Updates ...... 8 The Caribbean Sky ...... 40 Business Briefs ...... 10 Cooking with Cruisers ...... 43 Regatta News...... 14 Readers’ Forum ...... 4 Destinations ...... 22 What’s on my Mind ...... 47 Meridian Passage ...... 33 Calendar of Events ...... 48 Cartoons ...... 36 Caribbean Market Place .....49 Look Out For… ...... 37 Classified Ads ...... 53 A World ARC First Salty’s Beat ...... 38 Advertisers’ Index ...... 54 First stop, Colombia ...... 16 PETER MARSHALL Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected], www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Accounting...... Shellese Craigg [email protected] [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman Grenada Week [email protected] Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. Sailing with spice...... 20 See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. ©2015 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short Mount Gay Regatta Nevis excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. Barbados’s best! ...... 18 Stepping back in time ...... 26 ISSN 1605 - 1998

Cover Photo: Coincidentally, Grenada’s annual regatta was on the cover of our very first issue as well as this 20th Anniversary number!

Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. This 20th Anniversary issue of Caribbean Compass is dedicated to all of our late contributors, including early Compass-shapers Frances Kay Brinkley, John “John St. John” Bryan, Guy Dean, Pauline Dolinski, Norman Faria, Jane Gibb, Elisa Karnofsky, Yvonne Katchor, David Rooks, Rod Tuttle and Bob Williamson. The Caribbean was yours. Sail on.

Santa Marta

Cartagena

Click Google Map link below to fi nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://bit.ly/1fMC2Oy MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 first was the world,butfirstalookbackintime. marine publicationofitsown. boating activity,itwasridiculousforthisareanottohaveadedicatedrecreational- Advocate New ZealandIwasprivilegedtoworkasa“Shoreline”featurewriterforthe could getourhandsonthroughouttravels,andduringayearlongstopoverin for JimLong’sseminal tion, I’dwrittenfreelancearticlesforacoupleofglossysailingmagazines,aswell a businessdegreeinhisbackpocket.BeforeleavingBequiaonourcircumnaviga- Caribbean, sincetheearly1970s.AlongwithhisUSCoastGuardlicenses,Tomhad did weknowofanyonewhomightbeinterested. trimaran ketch, wonder forlong. Christmas of1994,TomHopmanandIwondered,“Whatnext?”Wedidn’thaveto paper our 1963-vintageRhodes41sloop, Caribbean Compass I andmanyothersfeel Don Streetrecalls: We hadworkedascharteranddeliverycaptaincrew,cruisedtheEastern Tom andIlookedateachothersaid,“Hey,wecandothat!” On NewYear’sEve1994,overdrinksaboardourfriendElenSchwartz’sCarol After completingasix-yeardouble-handedcircumnavigationoftheglobeaboard — Lennon-McCartney,‘Sgt.Pepper’sLonelyHeartsClubBand’ The actyou’veknownforalltheseyears… So mayIintroducetoyou YEARS AGO www.doylecaribbean.com [email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip, Six Crossroads, Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands Caribbean Boating Prana IT WAS20 newspaper.ArrivingbackintheWindwards,wethoughtthat,withallits Caribbean Boating Pistachio TODAY… , inAdmiraltyBay,pioneeringcircumnavigatorthelateBobLawof mentionedthathehadseedmoneytoinvestinanewspaper,and wasnotthefirstfreesailingnewspaperinCaribbean.The Compass Caribbean Boating butitreallyevolvedinto , startedbyJimLongbackin1978or’79.calledhis by SallyErdle isthebestoffreesailing-orientedmagazinesin So Long, . Welaterenjoyedreadinganythingwe bysailingintoBequia,justbefore 30 BldAllegre Voilerie DuMarin Martinique True BlueStGeorge Turbulence Sails Grenada Roseau Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Zeilmakerij Harms Curacao Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda Virgin IslandsBoating advanced sailspossible. the finest,mostdurableandtechnologically 50,000 miles. Our OCEANPLUSsailsareguaranteedforfiveyearsor , aslittlewas Chaguramas AMD Sails Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas&Sail Puerto Rico Panama City Regency Marine Panama Northern Built bysailmakersdedicatedtobuilding

Rhode Islandandnowproduces sailing orthewater. of theMonth,featuringaratherscantilyclothedgalwhowassailor,orinterestedin eight pages,itwasverysailingoriented,butdidhaveoneamusingcolumn,Mermaid covered outsideoftheVirginIslandsotherthanAntiguaWeek.Sixtoamaximum Compass and Ireland(“Nevermissafreebs,mon”),Isaywithoutfearofcontradiction, Compass sailing-oriented children,havetofightwiththeiroffspringgrabandread the kids!Everyadultwhocruiseswithchildren,andsailorsbasedashorehave is underthesearatherthanontopofsea,stargazer,andlastbutnotleast, cruising sailor,thesailorswholiketoexploreashore,thosethatareinterestedinwhat something foreveryone—theracingsailor,marine-orientedbusinessman, ments covertheentireCaribbean.Thebreadthofinterestingarticlesisextraordinary, ors. SoontheareaofCaribbeancoveredexpandeduntilnownewsandadvertise- Caribbean, whichhadlargelybeenignored,andtoappealawidespectrumofsail- turing racingandalwaysalargesectionofsportfishing. Kennan boughtthemagazine,itstaggeredalong.Nowisaslickcolormagazinefea- Caribbean andcoversportfishing,whichJimhadignored.FrominceptionuntilChris Caribbean butwouldalsohavearticlescoveringmajoryachtracesoutsideofthe launched — auniquemagazineinnewspaperformat. was beingprintedonitssignature“brightwhite”paperinsteadofordinarynewsprint more. Let’sdoanother20! Caribbean Compass listen. Ithasallbeenfun,andIamnotabouttogiveupmyself-made,laminated occasionally rightedwrongs,stoppedstupiddevelopments,andgottenpoliticiansto and sometimetroublestirrer,Iamproudtohavebeenpartofthisendeavor.We As rovingreporter,occasionalcrimecommentator,painttester,hikeratlarge Caribbean, andlikely,theworld.CongratulationsSally,Tom,Wilfredteam. way andisnowthemosthighlyregardedpopularwaterfrontnewspaperin the officeandshippedouttobephotographed. become friends. just asfriendsbecamecontributors,overtheyearsmanycontributorshave wrote inissuenumberone,remainregularcontributorstwodecadeslater—and things wedid.Weropedinfriendstohelp—ChrisDoyleandBobBerlinghof,who — andwefiguredtherewouldbeotherswholiketoreadthesamekindof now knownas“theyachtingindustry”andbeencustomersofmarinebusinesses pretty averagesailorsforthetime—havingcruised,racedabit,workedinwhat’s their voyagefromEnglandtoNewZealandthefollowingyear.TomandIwere young cruisingcouple,MandyPirimonaandGrahamO’Neill,whocontinuedon white —waspublishedinMarchof1995,withthedesignandtechnicalhelpa In about1994,TPParsondecidedthat The firstissueof As awanderingsailorwhoreadsfreeyachtingpublicationsintheStates,UK In 1995, By 1996the I remembertheverybeginningsof Chris writes: isthebestfreeyachtingmagazineinworld. first! Kaya AtomZ IBS b/v Bonaire Kingston PJG Jamaica Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix All atSea Caribbean Compass Compass Caribbean Compass . Hesaid journalist IDtagwhichhasgottenmeintoboatshowsandmuch Caribbean Boating had expandedto24pages(andsincedoubledinsize)and All atSea Newport andCaribbeanBoating waslaunched,initiallytocovertheSouthern Compass —all16pagesofit,ingloriousblackand wouldgivecoveragetonotonlythewhole ranoutofsteam,JimmovedtoNewport, Caribbean Boating whenthepageswerestillpastedupin Caribbean Compass —Continued onnextpage wastooVIorientedand on theinternet. hascomealong Caribbean Caribbean MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 —Continued on next page has always been printed by Guardian Media , the region’s first free boating publication Compass Caribbean Boating we know today, photographer, graphic designer and former yacht skipper designer and former yacht photographer, graphic we know today, Our office, thanks to our lovely landlady, Dreana Hughes, has remained at the Our office, thanks to our lovely landlady, Dreana Hughes, Except for two issues, the And now it’s 2015, and still the readers wait with trembling hands (yes, some of us with trembling hands (yes, and still the readers wait And now it’s 2015, look of the after establishing the general Thoeny returned to the US When Roxanne At PSV Regatta 1983, volunteers from the Bequia Sailing Club Tom Hopman, At PSV Regatta 1983, volunteers from the Bequia Sailing tickets (‘clams’) Elaine Scott, Sally Erdle and Elen Schwartz sell drink and offer copies of peerless address of “Brick House, Back Street, Bequia” for 20 years. There is still an peerless address of “Brick House, Back Street, Bequia” back. avocado tree out front, and a pigeon pea patch in the copies are sent — thanks to Ltd. of Trinidad & Tobago, and from Trinidad hard to key distribution points Leonard Doolgar — by ship, island schooner and plane around the Caribbean. are getting on a bit!) for the next month’s edition, now in glorious colour and slickly edition, now in glorious colour a bit!) for the next month’s are getting on 20 years! Here’s to the next a “speedy” internet connection! sent to press over Compass and Production Cockpit Crew as Design joined the Compass Wilfred Dederer 1998 until 2003, hand ever since. From and has been our right Manager in 1998 an indispens- as our first Assistant Editor, gave invaluable support Nicola Redway Debra Elaine Ollivierre. Bookkeeper held since then by the eagle-eyed able position who has con- followed by Shellese Craig, crew from 1998 to 2011, Davis joined the and much more, in order. tinued to keep the numbers, . I had known . I had known Compass contributors Art Ross and Don Street Compass office, February 2015 Compass Continued from previous page Continued from I joined in with help on the technical side and with setting up a bookkeeping system. I joined in with help on the technical side and with setting Sally told me in early 1996 that their original partners were leaving to continue their Sally told me in early 1996 that their original partners Noel Mawer remembers the low-tech early days: the low-tech early Noel Mawer remembers for a spell with 1996 that I became involved It was not till I think back in amazement when I recall what was involved with the monthly creation I think back in amazement when I recall what was involved Apple-talk networking... font of the paper. Dial-up... Syquest 44MB (yes, MB!) drives... or even by boat for printing! hell... sending the finished Quark files to Trinidad by LIAT papers actually arrived. All in In retrospect, it was always a wonder when the printed all, a great adventure every month. voyaging, and asked me to find out if my girlfriend, Roxanne, might be interested in voyaging, and asked me to find out if my girlfriend, Roxanne, She was indeed, and in joining the Compass Crew to replace the departing designer. (at the time) huge CRT monitor the summer of that year, we shipped her computer and stuff. down to Bequia, along with a bundle of other high-tech Yachting authors and long-time visiting the Tom and Sally since their return from their circumnavigation, and had watched the circumnavigation, and since their return from their Tom and Sally here on Bequia. birth of the paper — MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 An estimated30,000to40,000peoplenowreadthe Region. Since2007, Southern CaribbeancoveragequicklyexpandedtocovertheentireWider publication, andyetit’sbecomesomuchmore. out thisissue,thatFattywasright.It’sasuccessfulpublishingbusiness,it’s ing frommanyofthecommentsreadersandwritersyou’llseespreadthrough- project!” Well,we’dneverquitethoughtofitthatwaybefore,butturnsout,judg- publishing goals,andFattyremarked,“Aha,the years agowithFattyandCarolynGoodlander,weweretalkingaboutourwriting standing inthecontextofrecreationalmarinescene.Overlunchonedayafew ers, governmentagenciesandadvertisers,providinglinkagestowardgreaterunder- the localbandSOS;wonderfulthingshappeninBequia). Plant showupandaskifhecouldsingwithyourband(whichactuallyhappenedto Mick walkintoourofficeandoffer stand onend”toluminariessuchas could besogoodthat,asNicolasaid,“Itmakesthehaironbacksofyourarms Rangel Zabala. Jo-Anne Sewlal,VanessaSimmons,DonStollmeyer,AmalThomas, Jno-Hope, GerelynJohn,OrbinOllivierre,J.WilliePinheiro,AudreyAlleyneQuiniou, Compton, KurtCordice,thelateNormanFaria,ShirleyHall,OscarHernandez,Billy Bedeau, OwenandHermanBelmar,IeshaOdingaBlair,SandraChouthi,Kedisha of course,andresidentexpats,aswellnumerousCaribbeanvoicessuchTelfor contributors haveincludedawidecross-sectionofthevisitingcruisingcommunity, an assignment;theywritebecausearemotivatedtotellsomething. care aboutwhatthey’rewritingabout.Theydon’twritebecausethey’vebeengiven and learnedtogether.Ourcorecontentcomesfrompeople“outinthefield”whotruly ideas, experiencesandtalentsthanbyarigideditorialpolicy.We’vemademistakes Marine ofVenezuela.Newadvertiserscontinuetocomeaboardnearlyeverymonth. Echo MarineandPowerBoatsofTrinidad;VenezuelanSupplyXanadu Bros., NeilPrydeSails,SpiceIslandMarineServicesandTurbulenceSailsofGrenada; Real Estate,TheFoodFair,GrenadaMarine,IslandDreamsYachtServices,McIntyre Gonsalves LiquorsofSt.Vincent&theGrenadines;ArtFabrik,B&CFuels,Carriacou of St.Lucia;BarefootYachtCharters,Fernando’sHideaway,GrenadinesSailsand Island WaterWorld,NorthernLightsandLIAT;DSLYachtingRodneyBayMarina regional businessesDoyleSailsCaribbean,ChrisDoyle’sGuides,IolaireEnterprises, during ourfirstfiveyearsofpublicationandhavebeenwithuseversinceinclude — istheverybestthingwecangiveouradvertisers.Advertiserswhohoppedaboard a passionateandloyalreadership—ratherthanoffering“puffpieces”orcut-ratedeals the sincerebeliefthatcontentcomesfirst:goodmakesavidreaders,andhaving and thusfreeofcorporateconstraints, Fortunately, thishasrarelybeenaproblem.Beingindependentlyownedandoperated, economy. Itwassuccinct:“Justmakesureyoucangettheadvertiserstopay.” Grenadines, SirJamesF.Mitchell,forhisadviceondoingbusinessintheregional — So here’stoeveryonewhoeversaid,“Hey,Icandothat!”andwentcruising, Looking back,weareblownaway. Meanwhile, thankstodemandfrombothadvertisersandreaders,ouroriginal Compass The Before webeganthisendeavor,askedthenPrimeMinisterofSt.Vincent&the Continued frompreviouspage [email protected] [email protected] www.igy- marinasantamarta.com/en - COLOMBIA Phone: + 57 5 4363601 72 VHF Channel 16, 34.45” 14´ Coordinates 11° Compass ispleasedtobeableprovideaplatformforallthesecontributors,read- 24

’s contenthasevolvedovertheyears,beingshapedmorebywriters’ Compass Caribbean Compass contributorshaverangedfromamateurswhosewriting NORTH 74° 13´04.91” WEST WEST NORTH 74°13´04.91” Compass Compass New Yorker hasbeenfreeonlinefortheentireworld. hiscartoonswaslikehavingRobert has always steered a course based on hasalwayssteeredacoursebasedon Compass cartoonistMickStevens.Having Compass isacommunity-building everymonth.

J. Wynnerand Compass and malls. the entire region. – Mini Mark of Marta,home Center City Santa the Historic to distance walking and beach local the to –Adjacent staff. lingual bi of High percentage dryers.–24 and /7365 washer Securi quality in -New professional showers. running Cold -TeakDocks.Hotand Facility. New Marina Past, presentandfuture,we’reallpartoftheband.Playon! supported anorganization,orotherwisegotinvolvedintheCaribbeanmarinescene. started racing,joinedarally,wroteanarticle,openedmarine-relatedbusiness, Since theveryfirstissueof of theCrew.(WatchthatVeryStrongRum,Chris!) photographer, ‘troublestirrer’andfriendChrisDoylehasbeenanintegralpart et on site. – Nearby modern et onsite.–Nearby Caribbean Compass of the finest bistro, cafes and nightlife in in and nightlife cafes bistro, finest the of ty and Dock Attendants. - Free Wi-fi. -Free – Attendants. Dock and ty , sailor,cruisingguideauthor, grocery, depar grocery, tment stores tment stores MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 &Updates Info Trinidad &Tobago. at thebeachanddesignatedBlueFlagzone. ties. Theinformationboardalsoprovidesadescriptionofessentialservicesavailable monthly updatesonthewaterqualityandon-siteenvironmentaleducationactivi- od, beachgoerscanviewtheBlueFlaginformationboard,whichwilldisplay the English-speakingCaribbean,isJanuary16thtoNovember16th.Duringthisperi- tion management,waterquality,safetyandotherservices. oped throughcompliancewithastrictcriteriadealingenvironmentaleduca- implementation oftheBlueFlagCertificationprogram,avoluntaryeco-labeldevel- Visit www.blueflagtrinidadandtobago.comformoreinformationonBlueFlag The 2015BlueFlagseasonforLasCuevasBeach,nowtheonlycertifiedbeachin Las CuevasBeachinTrinidadwasselectedlastyearasthepilotbeachfor Blue FlagCertificationinTrinidad to add, nautical milesandwasalwaysquick license, Virginialoggedover400,000 license andanMCAOceanMaster and Aria, MoonlightII,Shiwara yachts including She alsocaptainedprivateandcharter the 140-foot Galaxy Ocean Star Westward foot tional sailingvesselsincludingthe135- 28-year careerincommandoftradi- captains andspentmuchofher sorority ofprofessionalfemaleyacht com, Virginiawasamonganelite Island. AccordingtoSailingScuttlebutt. Treasurer, OfficeManager,Historianandmore. joined SSCAin1955,andservedasCommodores’BulletinEditor,BoardMember, there formanyyears.Ginny in 1975andlivedaboard then movedtosouthFlorida for morethantenyears.She ketch, she livedona50-footAlden moved toNewOrleanswhere Bojac Hanna-designed Carolketch, her husbandsoldtheir37-foot Galapagos Islands.Sheand spent fivemonthsinthe Mexico, CentralAmericaand 1959 andsailedPacific birthday. SheleftCaliforniain her thirdboatbefore20th father andwaslivingaboard first boatatage12withher family in1936,Ginnybuilther ing cruisersintheworld. on January18th.TheSSCAistheoldestandlargestnon-profitorganizationofvoyag- Holding botha3,000-tonUSCG Captain VirginiaA.WagnerpassedawayonJanuary30thinNewport,Rhode VIRGINIA WAGNER Born intoaCaliforniasailing Seven SeasCruisingAssociationLifetimeCommodoreGinnyFiliatraultpassedaway GINNY FILIATRAULT Eight Bells Corwith Cramer Coro , inPanama1963and Windsong , the158-foot , aswellthe90-foot , the125-footschooner Schooner America —Continued onnextpage . , herhome Matau, TrueNorth, Clipper City and the125-foot , replica. , and MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 at every beach bar, but only de rigueur we welcome new advertisers the Black Pearl Caribbean Compass Visit www.visittobago.gov.tt for more information. Welcome Aboard! In this issue of for those who have worked up an appetite after a day at the races. for those who have worked up an appetite after a day Ocean Aerial Art all in the restaurant of Bequia, Cruising With Children books, and you with us! Market Place section, pages 49 through 52. Good to have Tobago has goat races — and they’re fast! And they’re off! There are scores of boat races in the Caribbean, a few islands have And they’re off! There are scores of boat races in the Caribbean, horse races, and crab races were once race spe-

on February 3rd on February 3rd

at age 85. Born in Grenada and at age 85. Born Trinidad, he devel- later settling in first indige- oped the Caribbean’s handicap rule, nous yacht racing the West Indies Yachting This Association Rule, in the 1960s. rule went through several name is now changes over the years and Al known as the CSA Rating Rule. the Rapier was recognized with Caribbean Sailing Association’s highest award, Honorary Lifetime chief Membership, in 2002. Current Chen measurer of the CSA Jeffrey more said, “There could not be a fitting tribute to Al than knowing will that his creation of the Rule Continued from previous page Continued from “Most of those miles were navigated by sextant”. miles were navigated by “Most of those the Rhode Island and joined dropped anchor in Newport, In 2012 Virginia AL RAPIER Rule, passed away founder of the CSA Rating Alfred Cyril Rapier, Tobago Goat Races Tobago comes alive On Easter Tuesday, April 7th, the coastal village of Buccoo, Tobago Jazz Experience 18th through 26th, tours through Speyside, Signal Hill, Tobago Jazz Experience, April Visit www.tobagojazzexperience.com for more information. Department of Corrections showing the launch- The photo on page 5 of the February 2015 issue of Compass, for a unique perspective See their website at caribbeanaerialphotography.com cially trained goats for a year’s worth of bragging rights. The event starts with a cially trained goats for a year’s worth of bragging rights. and drink line the streets. street parade where booths offering crafts, T-shirts, food delicious, authentic cuisine Many residents even open up their homes and provide Nicholson Yachts Charter Management team. Charter Management Nicholson Yachts — of spectators every with the Buccoo Goat Races, an event drawing in thousands cultural experience indige- year. Visitors are encouraged to check out this unique known as jockeys, nous to the island of Tobago since 1925. Goat-handlers, Scarborough, Castara and Pigeon Point Heritage Park. Each community will host Scarborough, Castara and international music icons including Grammy Award performances by regional and the Gang. All the events take winning artists Jill Scott, Jennifer Hudson and Kool and rated as some of the best in place on the beautiful beaches of Tobago, consistently the world. credited to Caribbean ing in Barbados of the schooner Ruth, should have been Aerial Photography. of Barbados! continue to provide racing sailors of all ages, all nationalities, sailing in all manner of sailors of all ages, all nationalities, sailing in all manner continue to provide racing are both fair and consistent.” boats, handicap results that MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10

New Yearly ContractSPECIAL STORAGE Holders

ANNUAL VALUE USD $1400. *IGY Marinas terms and conditions apply. t: Silver Caretaking Package! • • • • • • • • • • • • haven. hurricane-safe – all in awell-protected boatyard toa4.5 acre andhome full-service up to285 feet fi ing andsport oneoftheCaribbean’sConsidered foryacht- leading centers of retail of87,000 iscomprised Marina IGY Bay Rodney square feet space, withLucia isthetourism exciting islandofSt. ofthestunning SIDE NORTH THE ON NESTLED dining and shopping options. + 5 7 20 | +17585727200

Receive a FREE Annual Direct fl Direct Vessel Care-taking Packages offers ourwinter boatyard more with Save holders contract foryearly offers Specials and24-hr Compliant docks surveillance, ISPS CCTV pool, aswimming laundromat, offers; property The andimmigration customs clearance Onsite (60hz) (50hz) Power &European American or tech Wi-Fi Complimentary forall visiting concessions vessels free Duty available andlubricants fueling hi-speed Duty-free of14253 slips adraft with feet Security andmore andbars carrental, restaurants service, taxi showers, provisioning, in-house broker, banking, spa, premium service to our5MB e: rmiyaia.o | [email protected] andCanada from Kingdom, theUnited ights USA 14°04’32.72”N 60°56’55.63”W 14°04’32.72”N shing. foryachts accommodations Excellent and entertainment centre ofand Rodney entertainment Bay, f: + 5 5 15 | +17584520185 AND BOATYARD,AND ST. LUCIA w: -savvy clients can sign-up cansign-up clients -savvy www.igy-rodneybay.com the world. the fi Grande Collection, representing Yacht ofthe Haven A member nest megayacht marinas in in marinas megayacht nest VHF: Channel 16 the opportunitytohauloutmanylargesailboats andmotoryachts. accommodate andservicetheseyachts onthehard.Thepastyearwehavehad on theisland.Nowtheycan,andCuraçaoMarinehasspaceexpertiseto tial inhaulingoutlargeryachts.Before,manylargeyachtscouldn’tbehauled put asecondslipwaytrailerintooperation.AtCuraçaoMarinewesawgreatpoten- champions! Seerelatedstoryonpage20. Apero Race CruiserClass2.CaptainJasonFletcherandtheGrenadaMarinecrewof Grenada SailingWeek2015—winningBestPerformingYachtandFirstPlaceinthe SLHTA isresponsibleforfacilitatingtourismsectordevelopmentandmanagement. and MaritimeinSt.Lucia.TheprimarytourismprivatesectoragencyLucia,the ed theofficialRepresentativeofSt.LuciaHotel&TourismAssociationforYachting sels toitsshoresyearafteryear.RBMGeneralManagerSimonBryanwasrecentlyelect- convenience store,andholdsseveraleventsthroughoutitsseasonsforcustomers. what thelargevesselmarketdemands.Thepropertyboastsrestaurants,bars,anda high-speed fueling,provisioning,electricalandothervesselservicesthatgobeyond honor toRodneyBayMarina,”saidKennyJones,EVPofOperationsforIGYMarinas. ly, andwethankTheYachtHarbourAssociationonceagainforbestowinganother General Manager,SimonBryan A YachtHarbourAssociationrepresentativepresentsawardtoRodneyBayMarina’s customers intheUKCoastal,Inland,InternationalandSuperyachtcategories. Harbour Association(TYHA).Thewinningmarinasareconsideredthebestbytheir Marina oftheYearAwardpresentedatLondonBoatShowbyTheYacht BUSINESS BRIEFS Nicole vanBeusekomreports:It’sbeenalittleoveryearsinceCuraçaoMarine Curaçao Marine:OneYearofHaulingLargeYachts! For moreinformationonGrenadaMarineseeadpage20. Congratulations toGrenadaMarineTeamfortheirexcellentperformanceat Team GrenadaMarineAreChampions For moreinformationonRodneyBayMarinaseeadpage10. St. Luciahasmadetremendousheadwayintheyachtingsectorbybringingmoreves- Rodney BayMarinacanaccommodatesuperyachtsupto285feetandprovides “We arethrilledtobeconsideredoneofthetopsuperyachtmarinasinternational- IGY RodneyBayMarinainSt.LuciawasnamedrunnerupfortheSuperyacht Rodney BayMarinaWinsSuperyachtAward , sponsoredbyIslandWaterWorldandwithcrewfromGrenadaMarine,are —Continued onnextpage MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 —Continued on next page anchorage in the Eastern Caribbean. In the Virgins I give piloting direc- anchorage in the Eastern Caribbean. every Continued from previous page Continued from With a new 240-ton, 12-metre inside width travel lift (the largest and widest in the For more information contact [email protected]. World Cruising Club Partners with Elvstrøm Sails Leading sailing rally specialists World Cruising Club have announced a partnership My guides (and in fact all guides) should be used in conjunction with the relevant My guides (and in fact all guides) should be used in conjunction (POD) in the States from Imray Iolaire charts are now available print-on-demand Map Media electronic Sailors using Navionics, Garmin, Jeppesen/C-Map and discover that Street’s If ordered direct from iUniverse.com or Amazon, you will 31. For more information on Street’s Guides see ad on page Clarkes Court Boatyard & Marina, Grenada is the new name for the for- Lynn Fletcher reports: Clarkes Court Boatyard & Marina Court Boatyard & MarinaWorking closely with the Grenada Government, Clarkes first phase of construction Currently the main focus for the development is on the — ahead so that Make sure you plan plans for next hurricane season? What are your yourself? Then let an expert do it for you! Can’t bring your yacht to Curaçao Marine on Facebook! Don’t forget to follow Curaçao Marine see ad on page 9. For more information on Curaçao Imray Iolaire Charts Print on Demand: Street’s Guides, information is timeless. The pilotage information found Don Street reports: Pilotage — pilots, in fact — be backed up by Simon and I recommend that my guides Converting Clarkes Court: Earthworks Construction Manager Neils Lund, General Manager Conor Holmes and Site Manager Carlyn Haynes Eastern Caribbean), working together with a new 40-ton submersible stacker, will be able to service the mega-yacht industry as well as the cruising fraternity. with leading sailmakers Elvstrøm Sails, to share knowledge and experience with aspiring bluewater cruisers. In a typical year, over 1.5 million ocean miles will be sailed by boats in World Cruising Club’s Atlantic crossings and world circumnaviga- tions, and having the right sails is vital for successful ocean voyages. tions to many quiet anchorages that are not in the Scotts’ guide. In the Windwards I that are not in the Scotts’ guide. In the Windwards tions to many quiet anchorages “If anchorages not mentioned by Doyle. I once said, cover a number of east coast an anchorage in the Lesser Antilles safe for a boat draw- anyone can come up with I will buy the drinks.” Thirty- ing seven feet that I have not mentioned in my guides, five years later I still have not had to buy drinks. for tidal information, Imray Iolaire chart. Study the back of all Imray Iolaire charts directions to anchorages so weather info, anchoring advice and up-to-date piloting is useful, as sailing on a small they are not shown on the chart. The tidal information The information is also useful weather-going tide makes inter-island passages easier. tide. Imray Iolaire to the diver, as expeditions should be done on a weather-going be regularly updated and charts are the only charts available to the sailor that can not corrections per se, but corrected by going to www.imray.com. These are often printing of the chart that rather information on what has happened since the last should be added to the new chart. have POD facilities. Landfall, West Marine and any other chart suppliers that companies use Imray Iolaire charts are sailing on Imray Iolaire charts, as the above corrections/changes/addi- charts as their basis. Imray sends these companies all the www.imray.com, and they tions that Imray inserts in the chart correction section of charts can be updat- then insert the corrections in their electronic charts. Electronic to the area you are ed by going to www.imray.com and pulling out the corrections to charts published by cruising. These corrections/changes/additions are applicable the British Admiralty, the US DMA, NOAA and France. to the Caribbean! Guides are not only the best but also the cheapest pilots bought by St. Vincent- mer Clarkes Court Bay Marina, Grenada, which was recently is currently under con- based businessman and sailor Kelly Glass. The whole property 2015 season. Quite rightly, struction and the aim is to be hauling boats later in the ecology of the site. there is much interest in this new development and the and, before construction start- made sure the mangrove redevelopment was a priority from pods of the existinged, initiated the growing of 2,700 mangrove seedlings, mainly plants which, having beenshrubs. The mangrove nursery was filled with pots of young Officer, are now plant- tenderly cared for by Jeremy Telesford, Mangrove Restoration will be a larger area cov- ed in their new homes along the waterfront. In fact, there was before construction. ered by mangrove shrubs in the near future than there and some service buildings and that includes a slipway, a travel lift dock and jetty, and facilities. Phase 2 will be the remainder of the boatyard buildings and facilities followed by Phase 3, which will include accommodation and restaurant facilities. you can make sure that your yacht is in a safe harbor. Book your haulout in safe harbor. Book your haulout sure that your yacht is in a you can make new website Our our new website: www.curacaomarine.com. advance through also easily fully responsive, you can now at the end of 2015 and is was launched your mobile at our marina and boat from haulout and services reserve your space, season reservation form soon, as hurricane Send in your inquiries by phone or tablet. in and the time bookings start coming a few months. Around this is coming up in or +5999 give us a call at +5999 465-8936 filling up fast. You can also yard will start [email protected]. 562-8001 or e-mail Curaçao Yacht Agency, a trusted sub-contractor with Curaçao Marine works with yachts from all over the Caribbean, the States many years of experience bringing for storage or maintenance. Get in touch if you and South America to Curaçao on this service. would like more information today. in my 1966 guide is still valid Virgin Islands, and Chris Doyle’s guides for the Windward Nancy Scott’s guide for the lots of shoreside information updated approximately and Leewards, as these have and beyond what is provided in the Scott and Doyle every two years. But above inter-island and harbor pilotage information and guides, my guides offer detailed cover MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 simply wouldn’tbepossibletoday! things werecarriedasexcessbaggageonAmericanAirlines—somethingthat shipping theequipmentandhelpedsmoothendeavor.Allofmypersonal exciting —andterrifying!FortunatelyNoelwasagreathelpwithallthedetailsof being intherightplaceattime.Itdidn’ttakemelongtosay,YES! ness jobinmyfieldofexpertise?ThatallowedmetoliveBequia?Talkabout with theirfledglingnewspaper, year inBequia,werelookingforanartdirectorandproductionmanagertohelp Caribbean. Howluckycouldagirlbe? had aboatatthetime,Iwasabletospendfewmonthseachyearcruising clear distasteforMinnesota’sfrigidwinter.ThankstomydearfriendNoel,who the mid’90s,lifewasgood.Iasingle,self-employedgraphicdesignerwith torial ship.Butthen,ofcourseshewould: shehasa jungle islandsofCaribbeanPanama,and thatSallystillsoexpertlysteerstheedi- and gone,thatnowwecangetourcopy ofthelatesteditionrightherein the entireCaribbeanSea. ly untilyoureachtheperson. message. ThenIrealizeditjustdoesn’tworkthatway:youneedtocallrepeated- the firstfewmonthsIwonderedwhynooneeverreturnedacallwhenhadleft nical help,the and manningthephone,IsettledintobackroomwithSally.WithNoel’stech- information, the Chagres RiverinPanama.Throughpeople, theirstories,advice,andtechnical articles —andweretickledpinkwhenwesharedaHappyHourwiththemonthe recommended byRandyandLouraeKenoffelintheirCruisingGuidetoColombia because werecognizedhernamefrom met andbecamelifelongfriendswithEllenSanpereinPuertoLaCruz,Venezuela problems, andtothepeoplewhosharedourwackywonderfullifestyle.We nection tolearnofcomingevents,coolplacestravel,handywayssolving Google couldansweranyquestionwemightpose,the responded, “Oh,Iknowyou!haveallyour candidates to“boatsit”inSpain.Whatalovelysurprisewhentheboatowner request towritealetterofrecommendationforfolkswemetinPanamawhowere magazine deartoallCaribbeancruisers.Fastforward2013whenIreceiveda share ourjoywithothercruisers.Thusbeganalongandsweetrelationship Venezuela in1999,weturnedtothepopular passages andbecalmeddays.I’mproudtocallthe reviews, crosswords—andmyhoroscopes!tokeeponeentertainedonlong different islandseasier.Nottomentioninformativearticles,cartoons,poetry,book munity, andofferinginformationtomakenavigatingthemyriadformalitiesin keeping usabreastofupcomingeventsandchangesthataffectthesailingcom- gestions inclearingupproblemswithImmigrationandCustomsvariousislands, and contributorshavebeenmoversshakershereintheislands,offeringsug- of, andinvolvedin,theevolutionofsailinginCaribbean.The much haschangedintheensuingyearsandyouhavemanagedtokeepontop beautiful andwherethereisalwayssomuchtosee.Solookuptonight! so much.WearefortunatetoliveintheCaribbeanwhereskyatnightis of themagazine.It’sapleasuretoresearchandwriteabouttopicthatIenjoy ago itwasimportanttomethatbeasinformativeandentertainingtherest Compass live onlandorwater.I’vebeenareaderandsometimecontributortothe less entertained,thatisforsure.The to be20again. earth hastraveledabout11,680,000,000miles...onlytoendupwhereitstarted. once amonth.Andbytheway,in20years islands it’sagoodfeelingtopickuphardcopywithislandandcruisernews (mostly ontime!).AsaformercruiserIknowthatwiththeiffynessofinternetin lowed Itrulyenjoyedthebackandforthwithstaffassubmittedmycolumns Compass occasional Steiners).ShockinglyIfoundmyselfinroomwiththeENTIRESTAFFof write amonthlycolumnaboutnakedeyeballastronomyforcruisers(withthe downtown Bequia(it’sactuallyhardtofind!)withonlyhalfanideathatIcould cially, ofcourse,theRegattaNews,whichIreadavidly! report onregattas(asteeplearningcurveifevertherewasone!). and thecruisinglife,travelledtoexoticplaceslikeMartiniqueSt.Lucia what Ilovedtodo! Caribbean Compass’s get luckyagainandretireinBequiaoneofthesedays! great jobexperience,butalsoamosttreasuredlifeexperience.Hey,maybeI’ll sion forme.ButIamforevergratefultoTomandSallyprovidingnotonlya time togetbackmycareerinMinnesota.Anditprovedbetherightdeci- While Tomheldswayin Soon Iwasbusypackingupmyofficeforthebiggestmoveofcareer.How But thatwasbeforeIlearnedTomandSally,whomhadmettheprevious Back inthegoodolddaysbeforedownturnUSadvertisingbusiness Mary Heckrotte, Twenty yearsof I trulylovedworkingat It tookmeawhiletogetthehangofbusinessetiquetteinWestIndies.For Over theyears,evenbeforeweallconnectedwithFacebook,andTwitter Excited byourNational-Geographic-styleadventureuptheMacareoRiverin Melinda Parke,Washington,USAandBequia,SVG OMG… 20years!Seemslikeyesterdaywhenyoupublishedyourfirstissue.So Jim Ulik, Where wouldwebewithoutthe Congratulations Scott Welty,Chicago,Illinois,USA Happy Birthday, In about2008Iwalkedintothe Nicola Redway,BequiaSailingClub Eighteen yearson,Iamstilldelightedandintriguedbyeverynewissue—espe- During myfiveyearsthere,Ilearnedabout(tome)newthingslikeboats,sailing When ImovedtoBequiain1997,littlethoughtthatwouldsoonfindmyselfas Roxanne Thoeny,Minneapolis,Minnesota,USA . AheadyexperienceIcantellyou.Inthemonthsandyearsthatfol- foryears,sowhenIbeganwritingTheCaribbeanSkycolumnayear S/V Merengue Compass Compass Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass Compass S/V Camryka AssistantEditor—animpossiblygrandtitlefordoingonly officewassoonrunninglikeawell-oiledmachine. Compass Compass’s broughtallofuscloser,thoughweflitted aboutacross CC: SPECIALISTS ! &Camrykaland,BocasdelToro,Panama Caribbean Compass Compass andlivinginBequia,butaftertwoyearsitwas Compass frontroom,dealingwithvisitorsandclients Compass ! Hardtoimaginesomuchtimehascome onreachingyour20-yearanniversary!Ah, Compass corporateheadquartersinbeautiful ? Weallwouldbelessinformedand Compass Caribbean Compass includesinformationforpeoplewho articles.Wefollowedthepath Caribbean Compass Compass . Really?Anhonest-to-good- Compass cookingarticlesonboard!” Compass hasbeengoing,the staffmyfriends. gaveusacon- Compass magazineto togoby. staff — Chris settledwithhisAustralianwifeinFremantle, wherehestilllivestoday. schooner wooden boats,culminatingintheconstruction withBequiashipwrightsofthe68-foot Caribbean. Thenext14yearsofhislifewere spentthere,wherehelearnedtobuild Mediterranean SeaandAtlanticOcean, BowmanwashedashoreintheEastern sailing adventuresbegan.Afteron ayachtuptheRedSeaandacross Europe. Hismeanderingsledhimthrough AfricatotheSeychellesIslands,wherehis course foryourcurrentlevelofskillsandknowledge. There isalsoaninteractivecoursegeneratortoensurethatyoubookthecorrect on offerandanonlinechatfacilitytoinstructorwhocanansweranyqueries. Engineer Course.Thesitealsooffersadetailedboatingguidetoallthedestinations industry arealsoavailable,e.g.FirstAid,FireTrainingandtheMCAApproved professionals. Professionalcrewandskippercoursesessentialforemploymentinthe by type,location,datesandeven“lastminute”fortrainingstartingwithintwoweeks. approved trainingcourseworldwide.Practicalandtheorycoursescanbesearched is offeringafullonlinebookingserviceforindividualswishingtoattendanRYA- schools listedonSailPowerCourses.com.LaunchedinJanuary,sailpowercourses.com [email protected]. for boatsuptoabout35feetcanbebookedbyvisitorsifneeded. lent security,WiFi,pump-out,andminorrepairservicessuchaspainting.Asynchrolift slips availabletoenlargeitsexistingcapacitywelcomevisitinginternational the improveddocks. perimeter ofthemarinaandisabout500feetfartherfromofficethan day minimumbooking.What’sthecatch?Thedockislocatedonnorthern with ratesat50centsUSperfoot.Thereisa40-footminimumchargeandthree- economy dockarea(BDock).Thisisanunimprovedfloatingwithoututilities after lastyear’srenovationofthefemaleshowerfacility. is nearby.ThenewBoatyardArtGalleryshowcasestheworkoflocalartists. is justafewstepsfromselectionofbarsandrestaurants;well-stockedsupermarket yacht slipsatthededicatedfacility.Eachsliphaswater,power,WiFiandsecurity tion offourmatchingdocks,increasingcapacityto145slipswithafurtherninesuper- and anewsetofchannelmarkersguidestheway. they setsail.” product tohelpourparticipantsachievetheirsailingdreamswithralliesonce and seminarssupportingourparticipants,aswelldeliveringalong-lasting,quality selection, careandmaintenanceofsailsforlongdistancecruisingatourforums means Elvstom’sexperiencedteamwillbeonhandtoprovideadviceaboutthe sailors ontheirjourneysacrosstheAtlanticandaroundworld.Ourpartnership as ourpreferredsailmakingpartnerforWorldCruisingClubrallieswillbenefitcruising ing in2015. Cruising Clubralliesandparticipatingsailors,inathree-yearpartnershipcommenc- Elvstrøm Sailshasjoinedawide-ranginggroupofcompaniesthatsupportWorld the seventheditionofwhichsetsailinJanuary2015(seerelatedstoryonpage16). Rally forCruisers(ARC),whichwillcelebrateits30theditionin2015andWorldARC, Jolly Harbour,Antigua’snewfairwaybuoyheadingforinstallation In 1971,CalifornianCE(Chris)Bowmandropped outofcollegeandheadedfor Tradewinds: ATaleoftheCaribbean There areover60coursetypestochoosefrom,rangingfromabsolutebeginners to Miramar SailingSchoolatJollyHarbour,AntiguaisoneoftheselectedRYAtraining Miramar SailingSchoolJoinsGlobalOnlineBookingSite For moreinformationvisitwww.clubdepescadecartagena.comorcontact As ofthismonth,theClubdePescainCartagena,Colombiawillhave18new New Visitors’SlipsinCartagena,Colombia Visit www.marinaemeraldbay.comformoreinformation. On abudgetintheBahamas?CheckoutEmeraldBayMarina’snewlyopened Economy DockageintheExumas Visit www.jhmarina.comformoreinformation. Jolly HarbourMarinahasalsocompletedtherefurbishmentofmaleshowers A newconcretedockreplacestheoldwoodenandcompletestransforma- The channelintoJollyHarbour,Antiguahasbeendredgedtoadepthof15feet Improvements atJollyHarbourMarina,Antigua Visit www.worldcruising.comformoreinformation. World CruisingClubManagingDirector,AndrewBishopsays,“WelcomingElvstrøm Over 500yachtssailannuallywithWorldCruisingClubrallies,includingtheAtlantic Continued frompreviouspage Water Pearl , launchedin1980.After Water Pearl waswreckedinPanama, —Continued onnextpage Club providesexcel- Rosario Islands.The ing distancetothe and withineasycruis- ic OldCartagena Heritage siteofhistor- the UNESCOWorld in walkingdistanceof Cartagena Bay,with- well-protected inner the hurricanebeltin club islocatedbelow prestigious private cruising yachts. Founded in1938,this MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 , Chris spins the tale of Captain , Chris spins the takes the reader on a thrilling ride takes the reader Tradewinds , Antiguan writer Joanne C. Hillhouse’s novella , Antiguan writer Joanne C. Dancing Nude in the Moonlight Tradewinds: A Tale of the Caribbean Tradewinds: A become embroiled in espionage and intrigue as they use their wits, experi- as they use their wits, in espionage and intrigue become embroiled Continued from previous page Continued from For more information on Island Water World see ads on pages 11, 13, 29 and 56. Organizers have already confirmed major brands for the 2015 event, including AB Organizers have already confirmed major brands for the Visit www.cbshow.co for more information. Second Annual Island Water World Fishing Tournament The second Annual Island Water World Fishing Tournament, organized by the St. Visit www.tradewindpublishing.com for more information. Visit www.tradewindpublishing.com New Edition: Dancing Nude in the Moonlight In addition to the original novella, the newly published edition includes “fan fiction” the newly published edition includes “fan fiction” In addition to the original novella, and wadadlipen.wordpress.com for more information. Visit jhohadli.wordpress.com Cartagena Boat Show This Month Boat Show (CIBS) will take place March 21st The third Cartagena International 165-percent increase in the In its second year, the CIBS grew considerably, with a Splicing historical fact with fiction, Splicing historical In his novel and Party at IWW Cole Bay. First prize will be given for Biggest Mahi; second prize for Second Biggest Mahi; third prize for Most Weight Overall (all species); fourth prize for Largest Wahoo; and fifth prize for Largest Tuna. Entry forms will be available in all IWW St. Maarten/St. Martin Stores. America, the organizing company. EasyFairs works in partnership with local and America, the organizing company. EasyFairs works in partnership country at an international national authorities, who aim to promote tourism in the companies to come to the level. “CIBS has been a platform for Colombian nautical or have a presence in the market and for distributors of international brands to settle had a presence at the show Colombian Caribbean. In 2014, 29 international brands said J. Alfonso Diaz, along with a complete range of United States companies,” Commerce. According to chief executive officer for the Cartagena Chamber of lifestyle and the arrival of ves- estimates by the Colombian Government, the marine a thousand jobs during the sels to the Colombian coast could generate more than boating season. Sailing, Beneteau, Bordeau Inflatables, Azimut Yachts, Bavaria Motorboats, Bavaria Hamilton, Hobie Cat, JL 60, Cummins, Fairline, Ferreti, Fractional Yachts, Garmin, Audio Marine, Kawasaki, Khalela, Kites F-One, Lagoon, Linternas Fenix, Lemcor Group, Logimar, Marine Jet, Motomarlin Boats, Nautica, Pershing, Prestige Series, Princess Yachts, RayMarine Jet, Ronautica Marinas, Salona, SCUBAPRO, SeaRay, Suzuki Marine, Viking Yachts, Wave Runner, Yamaha, Eduardoño and Alliaz Colombia. The National Marine Manufacturer’s Association (NMMA) will once again sponsor the USA Pavilion, where 20 specialty booths will be showcased. Maarten Sportfishing Foundation, will be held April 19th and will end with a Fish Fry through the Caribbean at a time when the outside world invaded these idyllic through the Caribbean at a islands, changing them forever. about love across cultures, was published a decade ago to critical acclaim in the was published a decade ago to critical acclaim in the about love across cultures, a in Antiguan and Barbudan high schools, and gives Caribbean. The book is taught a young couple face as they attempt to build a touching picture of the problems life together. and other short stories and poems depicting life in and poetry based on the story, social observations and deep understanding of the Antigua. Hillhouse’s clear-eyed modern Caribbean make these stories tender issues facing women in the and powerful. to Convention Center, where the organizers expect through 23rd at the Cartagena two successful years of forg- draw close to 5,000 visitors from around the world. After show has become the ing partnerships between buyers and sellers, this nautical most important boat show in Latin America. which positions the city number of visitors and a 126-percent increase in exhibitors, businesses. “The numbers from and the region as an attractive destination for marine believe that this event is an previous years speak for themselves, which leads us to but for the city of important experience, not only for boating enthusiasts partner for easyFairs Latin Cartagena,” says Juan Pablo Hernández, director and Jack McLeod. Shipwrecked on the small Caribbean island of Petite Silhouette after Caribbean island of Petite Shipwrecked on the small Jack McLeod. schooner cap- a new life as a smuggler, Aussie Captain Jack builds the Great War, World War II clouds loom on the horizon. and family man. But dark tain, boatbuilder and the between the Allied Forces become a battleground sees the Caribbean the schooner the captain and crew of of Nazi Germany, and marauding U-boats Roulette and unseen foe. knowledge to battle a ruthless ence and local — MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 racing backtoNannyCayonthenextday. Trellis BayTortolatoAnegada,thenafundaythere, scheduled forMarch6ththrough9th.Itgoesfrom and StormyRegatta.Youcanhavefuntoothisyear. Anegada BeachduringtheFundayatlastyear’sDark happy? Becausetheyarehavingfunonthe details ofboththemonohullandmultihullratingrules. found atwww.caribbean-sailing.comalongwith Contact detailsformeasurersoneachislandcanbe have madearrangementstoupdatetheirrating. tact [email protected]. interested intrainingtobecomeameasurercon- more than50years.”Jeffreyencouragesanyone technology onanongoingbasisaswehavedonefor any potentialimpactontherulecalculationofnew a groupandensurewearereviewingassessing new talentintotheteamtochallengewhatwedoas mance inourwaters,weneedtocontinuallybring to bethemostaccuratemeasurementofboatperfor- the sporttocontinuegrowandourrule to berecruitmentofnewmeasurers.Chensays,“For Jeffrey Chenseesanimportantobjectivefortheyear tions inyachtdesign.” continue toadaptovertimeaddressnewinnova- comparable systems.Developmentoftherulewill rected timesthatreflectyachtpotentialbetterthan Rating System.Ithasbeenfoundtoreturntightercor- Paul MillerofRegattaguruandNicoBoontheTexel says, “IwasassistedbyfellowmeasurerAlfredKoolen, measurer StuartKnaggs.Oftheruledevelopmenthe nizers toprocessresults. time correctionfactorsthatwillassistregattaorga- area; andsimplifytheformulatodirectlyproduce yachts thatusefoilstoreducetheirwettedsurface sizes andtypesofdaggerboards;accommodate Monohull Rule;accommodateyachtswithdifferent in linewithwhatisalreadyusebytheCSA objectives: bringthemethodofsailareacalculation System hasbeenadjustedtoachievefourkey rather thaninventinganewruletheTexelRating fully fortheTexelRatinganditsderivatives.Therefore, the ratingsystemarebasedonthoseusedsuccess- Caribbean. Theformulaeandcalculationsusedin local requirementsofmultihullracinginthe adapt thewell-establishedTexelRatingsystemto cially adoptingtheruleasitsofficialmultihullrule. against resultsfrompreviousregattas,theCSAisoffi- “Multihull Ratings”andafterextensivelytestingit rule wasusedsuccessfullyin2014underthename announced thelaunchofCSAMultihullRule.The REGATTA NEWS Visit www.weyc.netformoreinformation. Gosling’s 18thAnnualDarkandStormyRegattais John Tullochreports:Whydothesecruiserslookso Dark andStormyRegattafortheBVI ON THEHORIZON… All racingboatsareencouragedtoensurethey With theinclusionofMultihullRule,chiefmeasurer Development oftherulewascarriedoutbyCSA The ratingsystemformultihullswasconceivedto The CaribbeanSailingAssociation(CSA)has CSA LaunchesMultihullRule

WILFRED DEDERER regattas, eachyeartheeventlivesuptoitsworthy around theplanetasoneofsailingworld’sbest — intheCaribbean.Nowrecognizedbysailors world-class slateofpartiesandmusicalentertainment best races—andhasbecomeequallyfamousforits Regatta hasshowcasedsomeofthetopboatsand ‘dark andstormy’couldbesomuchfun? Funday atAnegada.Whoknowthataneventcalled

For overthreedecades,theSt.MaartenHeineken 35th St.MaartenHeinekenRegatta BOB GRIESER BOB another strongturnoutfortheir34theditionthisyear. beginning ofApril—theorganizersareanticipating entry in2013—whenEasterwasalsoatthevery endar, whetheryouareacompetitororspectator. and sizes,hasnoequalintheCaribbeanregattacal- on thesamewatersas50orsoyachtsofallshapes ing withlegendaryskillintheirownseparateraces,but locally builtsprit-riggeddouble-enderboatscompet- its uniquesmall-islandappeal.Thesightofatleast30 those years,theBequiaEasterRegattahasneverlost Sailing ClubandBequiaitselfarerightlyproud. Caribbean —anaccoladeofwhichboththeBequia gest andmostpopularregattaintheSouthern Easter Regatta,whichisnowrecognizedasthebig- years ofthenot-for-profitBequiaSailingClub’sannual Surprise, Melges24andFigaro. There willalsobeone-designclassesforClass8and a Rallyformonohullsandmultihullswithoutrating. Cruising multihulls(Multi)withCSAmultihullrating;and Racing monohulls(Racing)withCSAmonohullrating; for Cruisingmonohulls(Coastal)withOsirisrating; run fromMarch11ththrough15th.Therewillbeclasses www.heinekenregatta.com. Regatta 2015,March5ththrough8th,visit motto: SeriousFun. of thefamouslocaldouble-enders,andmuchmore cruising yachts,keencompetitionamongdozens feature alongweekendofracesforracingand Below: The34thAnnualBequiaEasterRegattawill Following onfromtheirrecordbreaking53-yacht Although muchincreasedinsizeandstatusoverall April 2ndthrough6th,2015willmark34unbroken Good TimingforBequiaEasterRegatta! Visit www.triskellcup.comformoreinformation. In itsnewtimeslot,thepopularTriskellCup2015will Triskell Cup2015 For fullinformationontheSt.MaartenHeineken —Continued onnextpage MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15

LUCY TULLOCH , which is Wa’omoni I look forward to sharing this adventure with you. Visit www.antiguaatlanticrowers.com and www. I have been asked repeatedly why I want to do this. I have entered the team as Team Wadadli (the collo- I first thought of maybe doing the Challenge myself maybe doing the Challenge I first thought of Classics at play in Antigua. It doesn’t get any classier than this! the Amerindian name for our sister island of Barbuda. It is thought to mean “Island of Large Birds”, possibly refer- ring to the Frigate Birds, which are plentiful in Barbuda. atlanticcampaigns.com/2015-2/race-entrance for more information. It is for several reasons. Antigua has been the final destination for this event for several years, and yet no Antiguan national has ever entered. So, I felt that surely now it is time to do so and make it a national Antiguan effort. Secondly, I grew up on the waterfront here in Antigua at my parents’ small family-run hotel at Dutchman’s Bay, and the sea became my play- ground: watersports and diving in all its facets, my hobby; and seafaring as a part-time savior, my pas- sion. I think my years of experience on the sea have made me a qualified challenger for this adventure and there’s no doubt in my mind I’ll be “comfortable” out there doing it. quial accepted variation of the pre-Columbian Amerindian name for Antigua, Waladli, as recorded in 1635). I have named the boat the boat some 30 miles above Antigua, watching in awe miles above Antigua, watching boat some 30 rowed and weary seafarers slowly as these sunburnt their 2,800- Harbour to complete their way to English the Canary Islands. mile journey from I finally made ago, and early last year some two years the crossing do so. I’ve decided to do up my mind to the boat. that is, four persons on as a “fours” entry: YACHT RACES YACHT @ Bequia Beach Hotel, Friendship Beach Friendship @ Bequia Beach Hotel, Sandcastle Competition & All Competition Sandcastle Day Family Layday LOCAL DOUBLE-ENDER RACES RACES DOUBLE-ENDER LOCAL LAY DAY SUNDAY FAMILY FUN FAMILY SUNDAY DAY LAY Fri 3 April: Races Friendship Bay Gay Mount 4/5 April: Sat/Sun Challenges and 2nd Hairoun 1st

4 April: Sat Bequia Race Sun 5 April (Layday): S/H Around Hairoun Mon 6 April: Bequia Races Around Races Triangle Bay Admiralty For more information on Antigua Classic Yacht Antigua Sailing Week 2015 Antigua Sailing Week 2015 promises a week of Visit www.sailingweek.com for more information. Antigua Rowers to Challenge Atlantic Nick Fuller reports: For several years, I enviously As these rowers approached Antigua from the east, I No fewer than 80 boats and 1,000 sailors are expect- 80 boats and 1,000 sailors No fewer than Visit www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com Yacht Regatta 28th Antigua Classic will Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta The 28th Annual gram of this peerless event, including details of the regatta with race maps, class information, sponsor details and more, visit http://antiguaclassics.com and click on “2015 Programme”. Regatta 2015 see ad on page 18. superbly competitive racing and fun from April 25th through May 1st. Sixty-four boats have already entered. The Caribbean Sailing Association no longer provides Minimum Safety Requirements for yacht rac- ing in the Caribbean. As a result, Antigua Sailing Week has adopted its own Minimum Safety Rules that will be enforced during the Regatta. watched small contingents of brave-hearted and adventurous individuals row into English Harbour here in Antigua, as they completed the bi-annual Atlantic Campaign’s Rowing Challenge, the so-called “World’s Toughest Ocean Rowing Race”. often powered up to meet them in my sport-fishing ed to compete at the 2015 event. ed to compete for more information. full pro- through 21st. To view the be held April 16th • Racing, Cruising I & II Classes • J/24 & Surprise Classes Fri 3 April: 4 April: Sat 6 April: Mon Races Admiralty/Southside Gay Mount 3-Race Challenges Insurance United J/24 & Surpise 2-Race Challenges

REGATTA 6 April: Mon Challenge Gay Mount in 2012, and

in the first edition of the regat-

April 2 - 6

Sojana

Banque-Populaire V 2015 EASTER (784) 457-3649 Tel: [email protected]

NOTICE OF RACE & OF RACE NOTICE

www.begos.com/easterregatta www.begos.com/easterregatta

YACHT PRE-REGISTRATION: PRE-REGISTRATION: YACHT Continued from previous page Continued from — what a cruising community knows “Everyone in the own milestone of “30 Hairoun Beer, celebrating its joins Silver Sponsors Newcomer Sandrock Bequia With superbly run yacht races for Racing (spinnaker), For more information see ad on this page. ‘Ambassador’ for Les Voiles de St Barth Les Voiles de St Barth 2015 will be held April 13th Peyron was also one of the first renowned sailors to tremendous feel-good factor there is during Bequia factor there is during tremendous feel-good spokesper- says Bequia Sailing Club Easter Regatta,” is perfectly “and this year Easter son Nicola Redway, cruising it is early enough to attract timed so that their way they head back up north on boats before with to haul out, and to not conflict home, or south the region that boats from all over Antigua. We hope and the enjoy the best competition will come and small island regatta!” best fun they ever had at a at the St. Vincent Years of Legendary Vincy Brewing!” the sponsors’ roll call at Brewery, once again leads “Red Cap Regatta”, Platinum level. As an official outstanding support Bequia also continues to enjoy level, together with the from Mount Gay Rum at Gold have given their emphatic SVG Tourism Authority who for 2015 with a 150-percent endorsement to the event increase in contribution. lending their name this United Insurance who will be Surprise Class Three- year to both the J/24 and the Saturday, following the Race Challenges on Easter Class compete alongside decision to have the Surprise specially designed series the J/24 Class in Bequia in the weekend. Loyal Bronze of six races over the Easter are joined this year by sponsors Mountain Top Water Bequia, with the Bequia LIME St. Vincent and Action Hotel once again offering Beach Hotel and Frangipani invaluable sponsorship of accommodation & facilities. Cruising I (CSA-rated, non-spinnaker) and Cruising II (cruising boats without a CSA measurement certifi- cate) as well as the J/24 and Surprise One Design Classes, both the Bequia Sailing Club and the region’s cruising and racing community are eagerly looking forward to yet another thrilling and highly competitive event for 2015, complete with that unique Bequia hos- pitality for which the regatta — and the island itself — is famous. through 18th. The first-place winner of the 10th edition of the Route du Rhum will be the honorary ambassa- dor of this popular annual regatta. Loïck Peyron is three-time winner of the OSTAR (Observer Single- Handed Trans-Atlantic Race), two-time winner of the Transat Jacques Vabre, second place in the 1990 Vendée Globe, current holder of the Jules Verne Trophy aboard record holder for the Round the British Isles race. In 2013, he joined Artemis Racing as a helmsman for the 34th America’s Cup. participate in Les Voiles de St. Barth, sailing aboard the maxi yacht ta in 2010. “I always came to Saint Barth at the end of a transatlantic race and was so tired I never had time to enjoy myself,” he says. “By participating in Les Voiles de St. Barth, I was finally able to appreciate the island, as picture-perfect as a post card. The trade winds, the turquoise waters, and these magnificent boats… we are really lucky to be able to sail in such an extraordinary place!” BEQUIA MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 Santa MartaafterthebriskdownwindlegfromSt.Luciasays,“Wehadwindsof20 stages, theWorldARC2015-16fleetisexpectedtototal25. 15 months rally inRodneyBay,St.LuciaonJanuary10th. January, havingsailed815nauticalmilessincethestartofglobe-girdlingyacht 15 boatsfromeightdifferentcountriestuckedintoIGYMarinaSantaMartainmid- tion mapwasthearrivalatSantaMartaofWorldARC2015-16fleet.Thefleet Colombian Stop Makes First Round-the-World Rally

English sailorCarolineFrewaboardtheOyster575 Organized byWorldCruisingClub,thenow-annualcircumnavigationeventlasts A majorindicatorthatColombiaisnowfirmlyontheinternationalsailingdestina- FLOAT-ON FLOAT-OFF FLOAT-ON

and coversatotalof26,000nauticalmiles.Asboatsjoininatdifferent to make your yacht-shipping experience as smooth and simple as possible, while offering you the unbeatable service you deserve. you service unbeatable the you offering while possible, as simple and smooth as experien of experience years 25 over with yacht-shipping each your make to transport, yacht worldwide in partners dedicated and th pioneers to As tailored community. solutions yachting the of transport yacht of providers premier world’s the are Transport Yacht DYT and Transport Yacht Sevenstar YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM by SallyErdle Leaders in Worldwide Why not choose the most trusted names in yacht transport for your next passage? next your for transport yacht in names trusted most the choose not Why Juno Yacht Transport Yacht , thefirstboattoarrivein DYT andSevenstar Yacht Transport WORLD ARC2015-16 [email protected] Contact: NadineMassaly Phone +596596741507

Le Marin,Martinique J. LADINO / PROCOLOMBIA / LADINO J.

and localmediagreetedthearrivals. colonial cityfoundedin1525.ColombianCoastGuardboats,WCCandmarinastaff shakedown leg,butitalsoprovidesaknockoutfirstportofcall:still-livelySpanish Panama. StoppinginSantaMartanotonlycutsnearly300milesoffthechallenging marina’s still-expandingmaintenancefacilitiesweren’ttested. spent fivenightsatsea—wetookiteasyforthegrandparents.” months. “Allinallitwasapleasanttripwiththewindandwavesbehindus.We and weweremostlyunderdouble-reefedmainpoled-outjenny.” day, says,“Wehadlotsofwind,with45knotsinsqualls. skipper PeterJennettaboard to 25knots,goodfor SALLY ERDLE Left: inaugural stopoverinColombiaawarmpersonalwelcome Above: MarinaSantaMarta’sowner,ManuelJuliánDávila,gaveWorldARC’s In previouseditionsoftheWorldARC,firststopafterSt.Luciastartwas All boatswereinbythe16th.Sinceeveryonearrivedwithnomajorproblems, Another boat’screwcontainedfamilymembersranginginagefrom82yearstotwo Representative Exody arrivesinSantaMartawithaCoastGuardescort SEVENSTAR-YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM Juno ”, whichenabledapassageofexactlyfourdays.Scottish Exody , aSadlerStarlight39thatarrivedthefollowing e needs mobility ce, our goal is is goal our ce,

Exody —Continued onnextpage

isagoodseaboat, LIFT-ON LIFT-OFF LIFT-ON MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 Ltd Plan B Service Tobago St Lucia Marintek Electec NV St Maarten St Martinique Trinidad and Trinidad 721-544-2051 721-522-2552 758-450-0552 868-634-4272 340-776-6665 340-773-0289 Inboard Diesel Marine Global 340-714- 1239 340-714- St Croix Marine Croix St Coral Bay Marine US VirginUS Islands 596-596-78-71-96 Dockyard Electrics Dockyard In association with the Red Cross Tropical Party, and being whisked Tropical Party, and being to Bahia by local sportsfishing boats Tayrona Concha, set in the splendid National Park, for a traditional by Colombian barbecue. Joined Mauricio Cucalon and Colombia’s Sandra Vice Minister of Tourism, sail- Howard Taylor, the World ARC Manuel ors were the guests of Julián Dávila, who organized the laid-back beach barbecue as his personal welcome. and Marina Santa Marta, the sail- ors also engaged in a fundraiser for first-hand coverage of this event possible. Center Centre Antigua Services Services Grenada Dominica spent his last days, joining in with a high- spent his last days, joining at the marina’s energy local dance troupe Parts & Power Marine Power Marine 473 443 7256 473-443-1667 268-460-1850 268-720-9638 284-494-2400 284-494-3494 284-494-2830 Cay Electronics Cay Grenada Marine Grenada Dominica Marine Palm Tree Marine says to anyone thinking of joining World ARC, Marine Maintenance Marine Seagull Yacht Service Yacht Seagull British Virgin Islands good!” 767-440-BOAT(2628) Compass’s Exody really

wrote in their log, “A sad but wonderful send-off from Santa Marta, wrote in their log, “A sad but wonderful send-off from Ayama Changes being made to simplify yacht Changes being who were fortunate to The 53 sailors Thanks to ProColombia for making on World ARC. Visit www.worldcruising.com/world_arc for more information On the ultimate night of their stay, a gala prizegiving dinner for the first leg of On the ultimate night of their stay, a gala prizegiving blowing, cameras click- The fleet departed Santa Marta on January 20th, with horns Trinidadian Marian Borde on clearance procedures are also being clearance procedures although the World ARC noticed. And able to take advantage of fleet won’t be length of stay in the it, the maximum been extended from six country has year, and is renewable. months to one ARC’s inaugural Santa be in World however, pack a lot into Marta visit did, a visit to their stay. Highlights included of San the historic former sugar estate South Pedro Alejandrino where Bolívar American liberation hero Simón Fundehumac Foundation, a charity for underprivileged children in Santa Marta. Fundehumac Foundation, a charity for underprivileged World ARC 2015-16 was held at the elegant century-old Club Santa Marta, adjacent World ARC 2015-16 was held at the elegant century-old to the marina. of the 42-foot double-head- ing and water spouting from tugboats. The Swedish crew sail sloop hospitality we were given.” her charming and friendly people and all the amazing grins, “I heard somebody call “Have a go! Give it a try!” Her husband, Peter Jennett, it ‘concierge sailing’ — but it’s Clockwise from left: Local media interest in Clockwise from left: Local media director, the event was keen. Here WCC for television; Andrew Bishop, is interviewed gave sailors a Stalls set up in the marina chance to purchase local handicrafts; Colombian On Tropical Party night, hot legs rhythms loosened up the sea Reliability? Clean Power? Long Lasting? Low Cost of Ownership? Local Support? era some officers had been hospitality. Marina Manager hospitality. Marina

, “We’re excited about adding a new , “We’re excited about adding narcotraficante Compass www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com why with Northern Lights generators, yes, you can have it all. it have you can yes, generators, Lights Northern with why silent capability and region-wide a Caribbean service network, easy it’s to see High Reliability, Amazing Durability and Maintenance Simplicity combine to ensure your onboard power requirements are always met. Coupled with super- with Coupled met. always are requirements power onboard your ensure Continued from previous page Continued from Many cruisers don’t realize how much Colombia has changed in recent years, and Many cruisers don’t realize how much Colombia has changed After the announcement was made at a press briefing in the marina on January After the announcement was made at a press briefing “It’s a great stop for any rally, and World ARC has organized excellent tours for us,” “It’s a great stop for any rally, and World ARC has organized WCC director, Andrew Bishop, tells WCC director, Andrew Bishop, Running throughout was the famous Colombian was the famous Running throughout killed during routine inspections when vessels turned out to be smuggling drugs. killed during routine inspections when vessels turned “Now we can balance a welcome with maintaining security.” the rally’s arrival was a chance to demonstrate to a group who will be talking to other the rally’s arrival was a chance to demonstrate to a group and above all safe place sailors around the world that it’s a fun, friendly, interesting, on the friendly welcome they to visit. Several World ARC participants remarked arrival formalities. Coast received from men in Armada uniform when completing says that the change is often Guard Captain Diaz, in charge of the Santa Marta area, visitors. He explains that noticed in the way officers now interact with yachting approach yachts cautiously, Colombian coast guard personnel were once trained to if not aggressively, because in the bygone 14th that World ARC would be making a stop here for at least the next five years, 14th that World ARC would be making a stop here for said, “This is a great win-win.” Manuel Julián Dávila, owner of Marina Santa Marta, different experience from the It’s a Caribbean bonus for the participants — a quite Marta to promote itself as a Lesser Antilles — and a stellar opportunity for Santa sailing destination. acknowledges Caroline Frew. stop on the Caribbean coast of Colombia to introduce World ARC participants to a of Colombia to introduce World ARC participants stop on the Caribbean coast of give them the opportunity to explore a different part culturally rich stopover and for to Brazil near the end of the rally. Another advantage South America in addition to potentially longest leg of the rally, from St. Lucia participants is breaking the all arrived having had a cracking sail from St. Lucia Panama. The participants have by the tremendous warmth of their welcome in Santa and have been overwhelmed they might not otherwise Marta. They now have the opportunity to explore a country special.” have considered visiting — and arriving by boat is very Mauricio Culcalon says, “The World ARC is important for us, and of course we want is important for us, and of says, “The World ARC Mauricio Culcalon us Colombians, welcome we give — for perfect. But the warm, friendly everything to be that’s normal.” — beach barbecue, and national park tours, a enjoyed a week of city Participants then and parties. dance performances, dinners live music and MARCH 2015 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 Glory Daze Above: Demonstratingdifferentdownwindstyles,duelingJ/24s Below: AbsoluteMultihullrecordholder, ALL PHOTOS: PETER MARSHALL five fleetsenjoyedfourdaysoftacticalracing. Marketing Inc.andMountGayRum. was organizedbytheBarbadosCruisingClubinassociationwithTourism Poland, Germany,ArgentinaandmanyneighbouringCaribbeanislands.Theevent 11 countriesincludingtheUK,NewZealand,USA,Lithuania,Slovakia,France, Overseas competitors,whomadeupalargepartofthe36-strongfleet,represented racing andtheMountGayRumRoundBarbadosRace,concludedonJanuary24th. also wonRoundtheIslandCSAdivision. 38 seconds.Forthishewonhisweightin MountGayRum:21casesofit.Theteam Tindale wasthefirstskippertoestablish anewrecordtimeof9hours,6minutes, Round theIslandRace.Thiscreated a lotofinterest,particularlywhenJason the firsttimeJ/24classhadbeengranted fleetstatusintheMountGayRum Coastal SeriestookplaceinCarlisleBay onwindward/leewardcourses.Itwasalso event extremelyspectator-friendly.Most oftheeight-race,closelyfoughtJ/24 MOUNT GAYROUNDBARBADOSRACESERIES2015 International InterestBuilding International Although thewindsthroughoutseriesweregenerallylighterthanexpected,all The MountGayRoundBarbadosRaceSeries,incorporatingthreedaysofcoastal The impressivestandardofsailinginthe nine-strongJ/24fleethelpedtomakethe catch upwiththebrigantine Records Breaking, by SuePelling Silver Bullet Tres Hombres —Continued onnextpage College Fund$ and MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19

. , the Ruth 4 hours,

Ten-Shun , the Britannia (a Stimson 42) Elena of London , sailed by David took class honours. (a Beneteau Idylle 51) (a Beneteau Idylle 51) Palpatine Leonora Lancelot II (a 33-metre brigantine), and (a 33-metre brigantine), and Ten-Shun, , which set a record of , gracing her home waters. (a Hunter 30) headed by Bruce (a Hunter 30) headed by Bruce Ruth Farr 72.

Mandy Other Business Tres Hombres Monster Project , designed and built by him in Barbados, came the local TP52 sailed by Clint Brooks and team sailed by Clint Brooks and the local TP52 it was good to see some serious challengers this , was third. Owner and long-time supporter of the Countdown , two VO60s and a Conviction, Bruggadung was the only one to complete the course, to win the Classic divi- was the only one to complete Conviction Elena , said the racing was exceptionally tough throughout the regatta. “In the throughout the regatta. was exceptionally tough , said the racing (a Pogo), who clinched the Double-Handed Monohull record; and Paul Monohull record; and clinched the Double-Handed (a Pogo), who Continued from previous page Continued from Visit https://app.regattaguru.com/bcc/100086/results for full results. Visit http://mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com for more information. Anniversary note: Here’s an excerpt from Norman Faria’s coverage of the Mount Gay The dates of next year’s 80th anniversary event have been confirmed for January Peter Gilkes, Consultant to the Barbados Tourism Marketing Inc for Yachting William Griffith, CEO of the Barbados Tourism Marketing Inc., said the future William Griffith, CEO of the Barbados Tourism Marketing Inc., said the future One of the most competitive classes was the Non CSA division. Although Richard One of the most competitive classes was the Non CSA division. Although Richard It was also refreshing to see a classic revival, with the likes of It was also refreshing to see The highly contested CSA Cruising division in the Coastal Series went to the The highly contested CSA Cruising division in the Interest in the Mount Gay Rum Round Barbados Race is steadily building among Interest in the Mount Gay Rum Round Barbados Race The teams on British charter company yachts finished the week with some impres- The teams on British charter Robert Povey, the overall winning skipper of the J/24 Coastal Series, sailing of the J/24 Coastal the overall winning skipper Robert Povey, The other two record-breakers in the Round the Island Race were Dave Staples on the Island Race were Dave record-breakers in the Round The other two The Round Barbados Race was originally a schooner event The recently launched Barbados-built schooner intra-regional regattas, Ralph Johnson was at the tiller.” Regatta in 2000 — “Alas, the Bajans couldn’t stop the Trinis, though it was fairly close. In the Racing Class, the Trini Beneteau First Class 10, The helmsman is part-owner David Rostant. The consistent Andrew Burke and his crew on the 10-metre-long Bajan Beneteau 10 16th through 24th. Development, who has been involved in the organization of the event for many years, added: “The event has grown with each passing year and this has not gone unnoticed by those who are charged with making the decisions within the tourism arena. As part of our effort to continually improve, our plan is to create new berthing arrange- ments in the Shallow Draft area so we can accommodate more visitors: up to 70 yachts. The event is starting to attract some of the best in the world…. As the event continues to grow at this top end of sailing therefore, our product can only get better with each year.” second. An almost identical (its keel shape is slightly different) boat to of the event is assured. “This is mainly because it is ticking all the right boxes as of the event is assured. “This is mainly because it is ticking all the right boxes as a tourism product. This year we attracted more international competitors than any in previous years, so the Barbados Tourism Marketing Inc.’s aim, which was to open the event to new markets, has already started to take effect in a most significant way.” scooped an overall win, a local team on Robinson, didn’t make their life easy. Robinson and team won the first race and constantly challenged for the lead throughout the series and finished just one point astern overall. Inniss from the USA and his team on Spieler, which won all three of that division’s races. the recently launched, locally built 30.5-metre traditional schooner the recently launched, Although Corporate Beneteau First 40 charter yacht sailed by Chris Jackson and a team from charter yacht sailed by Chris Jackson and a team from Corporate Beneteau First 40 Coaching charter yacht Slovakia. The British Stormforce team, took line honours in the Round the Island Race skippered by Doug Innes and and Under class. and in doing so won the 50-Foot British Virgin Islands-registered Beneteau Oceanis 473, British Virgin Islands-registered Beneteau Oceanis 473, big boat racing teams who are keen to challenge for the outright record. Although the big boat racing teams who are keen to challenge for the record remains with the British VO70 (a 55-metre A Class racing schooner), (a 55-metre A Class racing sion, the spectacle of the three classics gliding gracefully up the west coast was a a classics gliding gracefully up the west coast was sion, the spectacle of the three remarkable sight. sive results including a CSA Racing division win for sive results including a CSA Hawkeye was easy to find because one mistake and it crew work was crucial shifty winds, good to go sailing. I’ve Bay is a fantastic place back of the fleet. Carlisle yourself at the World Championships here with 80 to 90 boats racing, done the Fireball and the 505 of positive feedback. I think Barbados as a sailing venue and it always gets such a lot incredible places to go sailing in the world. I am hoping is one of the, if not the, most to encourage more international J/24 fleets to partici- that next year we’ll be able the USA, which is not too far away.” pate, particularly teams from representing the Barbados Offshore Sailing Syndicate; they took the 60-Foot and Syndicate; they took the Barbados Offshore Sailing representing record. Under Monohull Johnson, the skipper of Johnson, the 42 minutes, 28 seconds last year year, including Hallucine — MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20

ALL PHOTOS: TIM WRIGHT / WWW PHOTOACTION.COM 43 Evans’s Elan37, and workedhardtotriumphinthisclass thathadthemostboats.Peter“Champy” smaller boats,withrelativelyinexperienced crew, the boatwasnamedBestPerformingYacht oftheregatta.Despitebeingone six firstsandthreeseconds.HisGrenada Marineteamwasdoublydelightedwhen naker. ScottWatson’sJeanneau51, best dressed,spiritedcrewwerehardto missinbrilliantpinktomatchtheirspin- placed Beneteau 53, the RacerCruiserClass1,ultimatelywonbylong-timecampaignerRalphJohnson’s designs takingpartintermsofsize,speedandmaneuverability. on thewindwardmarkhelpedspreadboatsforbettersafety,givenvariety of and therewasmuchdebateinthebarbeforehandastowhichwaygo.Anoffset third, closelyfollowedbyPaulSolomon’sHenderson35, always beenstronginthisclass,buttimeMarkChapman’sKER37, and theirpersistencepaidoffwhentheywonby1.5points.Trinidadboatshave 29th throughFebruary3rd,liveduptoitspromise“SpiceitUpinGrenada”! filled nightsensuredthattheIslandWaterWorldGrenadaSailingWeek2015,January Whistler, Hobie 33, larly fromBarbados,St.Lucia,Trinidad,theUK,CanadaandUSA. more nations.Grenada’sbestsailorsdidwellagainststrongcontenders,particu- 39 boatsregisteredfrom11differentcountries,withracingcrewshailingmany Below: Above: CloseencountersataRacingClassstart The increaseinlarger-sizedboatsregisteredthisyearmeanttightcompetition in New thisyearwastheoptionforRacerCruiserClasses1and2toflyspinnakers Sunny, breezy,livelyandtestingracedaysoutonthewaterplussleepless,music- In RacerCruiserClass2,JasonFletcher’s AlbinStratus36, In RacingClasstherewasaclosebattlebetweenwinner,RichardSzyjan’smodified Boat numbershaveincreasedeachyearsincethefirst2013editionandthis Even MoreSpice! Rasmus Innovations Add Piccolo, Apero, fromBarbados. , ownedbyAustrianDieterHuppenkothen, tookthird. Category 5, Rapajam, winner ofRacerCruiserClass2,wasnamedBestPerformingYacht a USA-registeredDufour44withUKowner,AndrewYates. GRENADA SAILINGWEEK2015 Julie Rule, ISLAND WATERWORLD fromGrenadaandsecondplacedPeterLewis’sJ/105, fromBarbados,afterconsiderablechallengesecond- Category 5 also fromGrenada by RuthLund hasbeenknockingonthedoorfortwoyears Boxxer, from Canadacamethird.

was second Apero electedtoflyaspinnaker Enzyme. —Continued onnextpage , and theevergreenSwan Apero, dominatedwith Dingo, Piccolo’s took

MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21

Attitude . with Matthew and Grenada’s (see this month’s Compass won, chased by Stephen Lily Maid overboard. The enthusiastic overboard. The , just arrived from an Atlantic Coral of Cowes, Caribbean Compass Glory Daze , and below, the modified Hobie 33, The Blue Peter Island Water World Die Hard completed the entire course with a jury rig on the completed the entire course with a jury rig on the Coral of Cowes , with an exuberant Scottish charter crew, did well to Galatea Savvy from Trinidad, which was second, notwithstanding the knot that from Trinidad, which was second, . Ambushe was doing well until the top part of her rig came down on Race Day 3. With was doing well until the top part of her rig came down Continued from previous page Continued from Next year’s Grenada Sailing Week dates are January 28th through February 2nd. Visit http://grenadasailingweek.com for more information. Anniversary note: In the very first issue of Camper & Nicholsons Port Louis Marina, Victory Bar and Yolo Bar provided the Camper & Nicholsons Port Louis Marina, Victory Bar and Yolo Bar provided the Special thanks go to title sponsor Island Water World; associate sponsor, Grenada In the Classic Class, introduced in 2014, five graceful yachts spread their large In the Classic Class, introduced in 2014, five graceful The J/24 One Design Class was newly introduced in 2015. With short up/down introduced in 2015. With Design Class was newly The J/24 One crossing rally, placing second. The well-known 58-foot ideal welcome sailors have come to appreciate and expect. On the Saturday night, ideal welcome sailors have come to appreciate and expect. On the Saturday night, the first ever all-inclusive Grenada Sailing Week Music Fest was held at Virgin Beach with four great Grenadian bands keeping everyone dancing into the early hours. On the Sunday Lay Day, sailors match-raced St. George’s University Sunfish dinghies in front of Mt. Cinnamon Beach Cabana and enjoyed the picturesque Grenada Sailing Festival workboat racing off Grand Anse Beach. Then it was Prickly Bay Marina’s turn to wind up the regatta in spectacular style with a steel pan band, the Tivoli drummers, fire dancers, fireworks and the amazing Grenadian band Soul Deep Tourism Authority; and Race Day sponsors Mount Gay, Sea Hawk Premium Yacht Finishes and Spice Island Marine Services. Also to St. George’s University, Mount Cinnamon, Netherlands Insurance, Dream Yacht Charters, The Moorings, Ace Hardware, Lime, Turbulence, Doyle Sails, Palm Tree Marine, Grenada Marine, Island Dreams Yacht Services, FlyingFish Ventures Marine Survey, Bluewater Sailing Grenada, Real Value IGA, Sails Restaurant, L’Anse Aux Epines Cottages, Lisa’s Grenada, Coyaba Beach Resort, L’Anse Aux Epines House & the Sugar Mill Tower, Sol Petroleum, Underwater Solutions, Glenelg Spring Water, Colombian Emeralds, Coconet, Mod 1 and Act Art & Design. 43-foot island sloop compete with these giants. cover) was a report by Jeff Fisher on the 2nd Annual Grenada Sailing Festival, which then comprised both workboats and yachts (Champy Evans raced in that edition, too!). The yacht races have since branched out into today’s Grenada Sailing Week. We’ll cover the Grenada Sailing Festival for workboats in next month’s great sportsmanship fourth and last day, managing to take third place overall. The winner was Richard Oswald’s impressive 1902-built 80-foot schooner, sails for specially designed longer races. Judd Tinius’s 1899-built 70-foot yawl, sails for specially designed longer races. Judd Tinius’s Galatea, Barker’s 1930-vintage 65-foot cutter, from St. Lucia. presence of this class added a new dynamic to the regatta and certainly pulled the to the regatta and certainly class added a new dynamic presence of this Yearwood and effort was made by Robbie participants down. A huge average age of to compete in to encourage J/24s crewman Patrick Brathwaite his long-time Yachts in provid- Blue Resort and Horizon generous assistance of True Grenada. The the J’s to all the difference in bringing for the J/24 crews made ing accommodation this regatta. Robbie Yearwood’s Bushe’s would not stay knotted in the first race causing the mainsail to come down, costing first race causing the mainsail to come down, costing would not stay knotted in the Fredric Sweeney’s young and limber team on them two races. Third was Spicy racing in Grenada is for everyone. Above is the 1902 schooner Category 5 courses and a leeward gate to suit their preference, seven hardy crews completed 16 preference, seven hardy crews leeward gate to suit their courses and a off Grenada’s being sailed in bouncy water days, with more than half races over four had two crewmembers from south coast that — MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 be veryproudofyourselves. individual involvedintheproductionof ouflage andsotheraidwasaborted. Elizabeth. Fortunatelythenewspaperappeared beforewehaddonnedourcam- planned jumpingintooneofourex-military landingcraftandstormingPort when anewissuewasoncefewdays late arrivingatouroffice,fiveofus ed marinenewspapersanywhereintheCaribbean. oped andimprovedtothepointwhereitistodayoneofmostwidelyrespect- and appealingtofolksofallagesfromwalkslife,notjustsailors. informative, wellwritten,coveringanincrediblywiderangeoftopics,funtoread breath oftextualandpictorialfreshairforfolksintheEasternCaribbean.Objective, enjoy thepersonalstories,recipesandtipsforsailors. looking forthe“insidestory”ofwhatishappeninginCaribbean.Iespecially Association classesinSt.Lucia1995.Havebeenaloyalreadersince,always Compass Crew. at theregattastuff. pes, thenfeaturearticlesandbusinessnews.IfIgetreallydesperate,mightlook cle promotingWindwardIslandbananas. them [theJuly2006issue]wasmyrecipeforbananabranmuffins,partofanarti- mailed copiesarrivedtogetherinmymailboxabouttwoyearslater!Inoneof received apasswordtoread to askthemtakeoneperboat,asthesewereallIhad. centre inStGeorge’s.Acrewcheckingimmediatelytookacopyeach;Ihad to distributeinBermudaboatsontheirwaysouth.ItookthemtheCustoms bright SVGstampsonthewrapperanduncertaintyofwhenitwouldarrive. our firstcopyof Simpson BayLagoon.Somewhereinourislandhoppingwemayhavepickedup to hauloutinSt.Lucia,thusavoidinghurricanesLuisandMarilynthatdevastated hurricane months. Now wedothe“sailingseason”and year, sowewereintheWindwardsforpeakmangoseasonandavocadoseason. could on count downtoleaveMalaysiaforSouthAfricawithinafewweeks. are stillhopingtocompletethecircleandreturnEurope.AsIwrite,weon these daysIpromisemyselfI’llgetitalltogethertopublish,evenifonlyforme! Caribbean —Inowhavewritten140articlesonourcruisingexperiences.Oneof with myarticles!Itencouragedmetocontinuewritingafterleavingthe platform forseeingmywritinginprint,andIstillhavethosecopiesofthe “joined dots”,completedcrosswords,etcetera,intendedfortheveryyoung!). azine, youincludedsubjectmatterforalltastesandages(Iconfesstohaving on localregulations,andreportsexcitinghappenings.Asforanypopularmag- of of full-timecruisinginNovemberlastyear,aboatyardThailand!Seephoto.) West Africa—withinweeksofoneanotherin1994.(Wecelebratedour20thyear and weon 1997 departureforEurope. base inPuertoRicoupanddowntheAntilleschainofislandsuntilourJanuary of informationin do somereallylong-distancesailing.Thenexttwoyears,supportedbythewealth to Miami,westillread for informationaboutplacestovisit,whatdo,andwherebuy.Now,retired Narendra (“Seth”)Sethia,BarefootYacht Charters,St.Vincent Many congratulationstoTomandSally,Wilfred, Elaine,Shelleseandeveryother Myself andmanyothersIknowlookforward tothenewissueeachmonth,and Over thepast20years,ithasnotsimplymaintaineditsstandardsbutdevel- When John Lupien,Toronto,Canada Happy 20thandlonglife! I discoveredthe Sue andPeterSimons, The warmwelcomeintheBequiaofficeremainsunchanged.Thankyou, I stillpreferthepapercopytoonlineversion.startwithletters,goonreci- Later itbecametooexpensivetomailoutcopiesandassubscriberswe I rememberTomoncemailingabout20copiesofanOctober I recallthensubscribingtohaveacopymailedeachmonth.rememberthe Looking backatthelog,’95wasyearthatwesaileddownfromSt.Maarten Back in1995wewerestillworkingBermudaandtakingholidayswhen With allgoodwishes,RosemarieAlecio, Alfred andIhavespentmanyyearsenjoyingthePacificSoutheastAsia,but I enjoyedcontributinganditkeptme“onmytoes”withdeadlines.Itwasfirst Henceforth, forus,andallourcruisingfriends,itwasaMUSTtoreadeachedition The tenyearsafterourreturnfoundusagaindependingon 1995 wasanimportantyearforus,too.Itthewemadeourdecisionto Alfred andIthinkourrecollectionsarecorrectthatTomSallyaboard Glenn &GalePatron, Good luckwiththenext20years! Compass Caribbean Compass Lorensu Ironhorse , throughwhichwekeptupwithcruisingnews,clarificationof/updates Compass Caribbean Compass . ThisusuallymeantJulythroughAugusttofittheeducational Caribbean Compass CC: THENINETY-FIVERS left the Canary Islands — they to cross the Atlantic, we to lefttheCanaryIslands—theytocrossAtlantic,we CC S/Y Encore, Lorensu —didthedistributionextendthatfarin’95? tokeepabreast. first appeared in March 1995, it was a long overdue firstappearedinMarch1995,itwasalongoverdue Compass Coconut Grove,Florida Lorensu , wehonedourcruisingskillssailingfrom whiletakingtheAmericanSailing online.Irememberthatthelastthree Compass S/V Ironhorse is inaMartiniqueboatyardthe , pastandpresent—youshould Caribbean Compass Compass Compass forme So Long

cat’s eyesarehugeandherhairis dinghy andwonderwhyyourship’s your boatwhenyougoouttotieonthe underwater flashlightsthatpassunder big thingandyou’llgetusedtothe filling tanksiseasy.Nightdivinga lots is!Thereareseveraldiveconcerns; There’s lotsofdivingtobedone—and back rowofboats(therearetwo). example. Thedrop-offisunderthe little fishandbigfish,tarponbeingan only 70-oddmetresaway.Thereare water withthecentreoftownbeing where youcanswiminperfectlyclear great; I’veneverbeenanywhereelse really pretty. the townlightscomeonatnightit’s and generalactivityisfun,when gers, dogs,swimmers,kids,cars,bikes here. Duringtheday,watchingjog- ages; boatworkdoesn’tseemtorule to findsomeoneyouhaven’tseenfor Bonaire isoneofthoseplacesyouseem hours. Whoneedsantifouling? and haveitspickspanwithin24 selves toyourhullifthebottomisdirty blue fishyfriends,whowillattachthem- ful andthere’sabonusinthetangs,our ten yearswe’veyettodothat. just tothenorthforprotection,butin heading forHarbourVillageMarina wind fromthewest)couldhaveyou summer anonshorewindreversal(i.e. doesn’t happenoften.Occasionallyin island cangetyourolling,butthis that creepsroundthecornerof strong southeastornortheastswell free, theanchorageisusuallycalm.A the town’sbeachsideroad.Beingfetch- up amooringbuoyabout70metresoff the littleislandofKleinBonaire,pick strip ofclearturquoisewateropposite hills andtheairport.Reachingthin housed slaves,thepalmtrees,salt last arrivalwasquiteanentrance. ting fullmoonandapinkdawn,our a flatsea.Withsimultaneouslyset- north toKralendijkonabeamreachin house, tightenupandsailthetenmiles there arenosurprises),passthelight- with thecurrent(thewaterisdeepand around thesouthernendofBonaire Having rundownwindyoucanslide Roques andLasAvesisalwaysatreat. from theVenezuelanislandsofLos islands” inthesouthernCaribbean) Nice viewfromthecockpit.TheKralendijkwaterfront Swimming offthebackofboatis The mooringsarealwaysbusy. On thewhole,anchorageisdelight- You’ll passthewhitehutsthatonce Arriving inBonaire(oneofthe“ABC BONAIRE BOUNTIFUL BEAUTIFUL

DESTINATIONS byCandyColley picks upatthemarinaandoutside… mood todoityourself.Afreeshuttlethat take inthewashingifyou’renot laundry anddrycleanersthey’ll short walkwillgetyoutoaworking place; Nancy’smassagesaretodiefor.A Janidades, abeauticianandmassage two banks.OppositetheMCBbankis great icecreamstore,hairdressersand bicycle anddunebuggyhireplaces,a ware stores,carhireplaces,bikeand accommodating Budget,Napa,hard- stores, diveshops,aphoneshop,an Digicel (cellularandinternet),clothes close. There’sasupermarket,postoffice, small, soeverythingisconveniently trip andyou’reahead. car. Fititinwithyourround-the-island it backinwhenyouleave.You’llneeda availability. Yougiveadepositandcash bottle. Callfirst(717-4330)tocheck better pricedatUS$10fora20-pound they comefromCuraçao,butthey’re station. Theyaren’talwaysavailableas an exchangeablebottlefromtheservice around thisareaforawhile,consider two orthreedays.Ifyou’regoingtobe and they’llneedthepropanebottlefor US$3.50 a Water, diesel,gasolineandpropane(at Saturday afternoonsandSundays. lunch atnoonMondaytoFriday, day plussixpercenttax.Theyclosefor pay foryourmooringbuoyatUS$10a dinghy backdowntothemarinaand can winterorsummerthrough. per personwillletyouextendso US$350 (USisthecurrencyusedhere) months inonego,youcanpaytostay. a yearinall.Ifyouwanttodosix days away,soyoucanstaysixmonths mind. Theruleis90daysinand is evencloserandtheydon’tseemto and tieupattheCustomsdock,which south afewhundredmetresfarther and it’saten-minutestroll.Orrun Karel’s Barattheendofanchorage apart inthesamebuilding.Tieupat only that,buttheysitaboutthreefeet are cheeryandaccommodating.Not the CustomsandImmigrationofficials than thedinghy-accessiblespots. operation andcantakeyoufarther Harbour VillageMarina,isanefficient Habitat (599717-8290),justnorthof side. Forboatdives,CaptainDon’s standing onendasshepeersoverthe Now it’s time to hit town. Kralendijk is Now it’stimetohittown.Kralendijkis With theformalitiestakencareof, Clearing inisapleasantexperience:

pound — ouch!) are available pound —ouch!)areavailable —Continued onnextpage MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 To talk work for a moment, there’s a Bonaire isn’t for serious boatwork, So, hang out and enjoy this beautiful At the opposite northern end of the Having done all that, you’ll be Now you’re bound to be hungry. On the east side of the island is Lac On the east side Le Bistro. Very good. They also have a bar called Zazu’s with happy hour and small meals, plus a very good burger deal on Wednesday nights (you have to book). A short walk south from there is Pasa Bon Pizza. There are many more options; a brochure from the tourist office will help out. Ask around. developing boatyard just up from Captain Don’s run by a Swedish guy called Lennert Davidsson. He’s expand- ing all the time. It’s called El Navegante and he can be reached at navegante@ telbonet.an. Last I heard he was looking at bigger haul-out facilities for yachts; he was only doing small before. though: Curaçao’s the place for that. More about that next month! island. Bonaire’s a great place to visit and a hard place to leave. the more margaritas you sip the faster the windsurfers go! island (it’s 16 miles long, so hardly a trek) is the Washington National Park. Educational and informative, it’s worth a visit and a drive round. Then there’s the Cadushi Distillery, where you can buy a liqueur made from cactus. I haven’t tried it but the man on the bro- chure looks pretty happy. exhausted. Go home, flop into the ham- mock and then watch the sunset with a cold beer or two. Restaurants abound. If you like ribs, look no further than Bobbejaan’s right opposite the moorings or just follow the aroma — I think they do it on purpose; it lures us all. It’s open weekends only (including Friday nights) and take-outs are big business. Call (717-4783), and then send the most energetic person ashore. It doesn’t get any easier. If you want to be more fancy, dinghy down to the Harbour Village Marina and go to so sweet and deserve all donations. so sweet and around forever but are They’ve been ground to motorized vehi- slowly losing etcetera. cles, development, for its windsurfing; you Bay, famous too, if you want to. can learn that, are the best in Bonaire’s windsurfers don’t surf, they fly! the world: they margarita and your feet Sitting with a watching in the sand at Jibe City and and them is an inspiring experience, Blindingly white salt hills contrast with the pinkish hue of the saltpans Continued from previous page Continued from Next — kiteboarding. The beach is While you’re waiting for your biopsy For us humans, medical possibilities If you want a new puppy or kitten, always busy, the conditions good, the standard high. Just watching from the beach is exercise enough. They’re out there and they’re moving. Private les- sons are available and if you get blown offshore they’ll come get you before you get to Curaçao. Inland a bit, visit the Donkey Sanctuary. These animals are result (about three weeks), there’s plenty to do. Bonaire is a fun place. Get a car, a map and brochures from the Tourist Board in town. Head south. Pass the Salt Pier with its oh-so-white hills of salt next to the saltpans, which can almost be called shocking pink: the colour com- bination is bizarre. The pink is from the shrimps that live in the pans and con- tain beta-carotene. They get eaten by the flamingos who hang out there and become, in turn, pink themselves. a cyst removed from his arm and five neat stitches, all for US$50; the biopsy (sent to Curaçao) was around a hun- dred. Also in town is the hospital (715- 8900): X-rays, echo scans… short of a triple bypass, you’re good to go. have developed a lot in the last few years since Bonaire became part of Holland in 2010. There are private den- tists and doctors in town who are effi- cient and have that small-town friendly attitude, hard to find these days. Our doctor has actually returned our phone call for a chat. Barry, my husband, had visit the shelter, (717-4989); it’s about a 45-minute walk out of town (so maybe go when you do a round-the- island trip by car). These guys do a great job educating people about how to bring up pets. Our one-year-old cat, Annie, is tribute to this. We got her last January and I don’t know when I’ve met such a happy, balanced bundle of joy. There are several good vets. Ask at the shelter. There’s also a DHL (717-6161). — take you twice a week to …Karel’s will supermarket, a more Van Der Tweels with lots of fresh stuff upmarket store The goods are mostly and a great deli. can get beer for US$18 Dutch, and you opposed to the normal a case here as labels are well worth $32. Euro Shopper also the AH labels (it checking out, Heijn, the big Dutch stands for Albert is supermarket chain). The Warehouse there too. across the street; pop in Bonaire is one of the few places where large numbers of Caribbean Flamingos breed MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 — simplybrilliant! is stunningforustoanchorinthepitchblacksurroundedbyaskyfullofstars sleep whenthesungoesdownwithonlylightfrommoonandstars.It have electricity,whichmeansatthemostoneortwolightbulbs.Therestgoto live inthatchedroofhutswithsandfloorsandhammocksstrungabout.Onlyafew mately 300,000people,ofwhich50,000KunaliveintheSanBlasislands.They cash orgiftsoffood,clothing,drinkingwater,etcetera,directlytothechief. ited island.Whenpermissionisgranted,italsoimportanttotakeanofferingof (Great Sailas). is governedbytheKunaGeneralCongress,whichledthreeSailaDummagan history ofthepeople,andinturntransmitsthemtopeople.Theregionasawhole as thepoliticalleaderofcommunity.Hememorizessongsthatrelatesacred led bytheSaila(pronounced“sai-lah”).Theistraditionallyspiritualaswell Western clothing. wear themontheirblouses,aspartoftraditionaldress.Kunamendressin intricate designsthathavebothspiritualandculturalmeaning.TheKunawomen catch, alongwithcoconutsand African Pygmy.Theyareexpertfishermenandsupportthemselvesbysellingtheir thatched roofhomealongthewater’sedge,foronlyUS$5perperson. We hadanexcellentislandtourandadeliciousfishdinnerwithhisfamilyat of hisisland,Wichiwala,alongwithdinneratfamily’shomethefollowingnight. who greetedusfromhis dubbed theSwimmingPoolhasaUS$10anchoringfeepermonth. fees collectedatcertainislands.Forexample,anareaintheEasternHolandes your crewlist,vesseldocumentationandpassports.Inaddition,thereareanchoring sel, andUS$15permonthforthevessel.Bepreparedwithmultiplephotocopiesof Immigration: US$195perperson,US$100foraone-yearcruisingpermittheves- past sixyears.Thecostsforcruisersatourtimeofcheckin(early2015)were: but itwasexpensivecomparedtotheothercountrieswehavecruisedthroughin Customs, ImmigrationandPortAuthoritypersonnel.Theprocesswentsmoothly, the capitalofSanBlasIslands.ThereweweregreetedbyPanamanian YouTube for“TheYachtUltraDolphinShow”toseetheresults.) amazing videoofthedolphinsatwaterlineandthenbelowwater.(Search the water,andasbowof take videosoftheplayfuldolphins.Weheldpolesteadyjustaninchorsoabove mammals runintoeachother. one bowwavetotheother,itisamazingthatweneverseethesefastandmagnificent Ultra our favoritethingshappened:beinggreetedbydolphinsridingbowwaves.Since pristine beachesdottedwithnut-ladencoconutpalms.

Rodney Bay,St.Lucia WE Today thereare49communitiesinKunaYalawithacombinedtotalofapproxi- It isimportanttoobtainpermissionfromtheSailabeforeyousetfootonaninhab- Each communityhasitsownchief(Saila)andpoliticalorganization, The indigenousKunapeoplearereportedlythesecondshortestafter Tradition Later, wewerewelcomedtotheSanBlasbyacheerfulmannameofNestor We arrivedattheislandofElPorvenir,whichisportentryforareaand Check-In We experimentedwithourGoProcameramountedontheendofboathookto The crossingwasyetanotherbeautifulsailintheWesternCaribbean,andoneof isatrimaran,ourdolphinfriendsalwaysgiveusthreeshows.Astheydartfrom ulu

(dugoutcanoe).Hegraciouslyofferedtogiveusatour Ultra

molas habited islandswithturquoisewatersandcountless archipelago consistingofalmost400mostlyunin- Kuna Yalanation,theSanBlasIslands.Thisisan multiple overnightpassagetothemuch-anticipated departed theColombianislandofSanAndresona dippeddown,sodidtheGoPro,whichgaveusan . Molasarebeautifullysewnfabricpanelswith

Tel: (758)4520299

Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope DESTINATIONS Johnson Hardware Ltd. FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE Fax:(758)4520311 dt ed the bride’sfamilyandtakingherlastname. the lasteightmonths. “weenie” asagiftfromourKunafriendsandnowhasbeen“wearingweenie”for are pronounced“weenie”inKuna.BillishavingfunsayingthatJoAnnewasgivena is consideredbeautifultohavesmallwristsandankles.Theselongstrandsofbeads elbows towristsandlegsfromkneesankleskeepthemthin.Intheirculture,it gold ringsthroughtheirnosesandlongstrandsofbeadswrappingarmsfrom tural autonomy. was createdinwhichthePanamaniansagreedtogiveKunasomedegreeofcul- supported byAmericanadventurerandpart-timediplomatRichardMarsh.Atreaty Revolution (“peoplerevolution”),ledbyIguaibilikinyaNeleKantuleofUstupuand ing inashort-livedyetbloodybutsuccessfulrevolt1925knownastheTule ed tosuppressmanyofthetraditionalcustoms.Thiswasbitterlyresisted,culminat- Panamania 1: Part Satisfaction inthe D Hi Traditionally, Kunafamiliesarematrilinear,withthebridegroombecomingpartof The Kunawomenwereonceagainfreetoweartheirtraditionalclothing,including During thefirstdecadesof20thcentury,Panamaniangovernmentattempt- History uring t osu take yourtime—butdon’tthecoconuts San Blasrules:takeaswim,walk,picture, story ppre he San BlasIslands Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners We FoundUltra e-mail:[email protected] by BillandJoAnneHarris —Continued onnextpage Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 with extreme Ultra newer contributors, Captains Bill and JoAnne Compass’s . Their enthusiasm for the Caribbean cruising life makes it all new to us . Their enthusiasm for the Caribbean cruising life makes Ultra Anniversary note: Among The Kunas have a difficult life just gathering enough food every day for themselves The Kunas have a difficult life just gathering enough food Fresh Food Delivery up to When our first Kuna fishermen approached, they sailed a bounty of beautiful The produce boats showed up almost every week, bringing business transactions can The currency of Panama is in Balboa coins. Everyday It’s Like The Old West Regarding Coconuts anywhere! Even if an island Do not even think about taking any coconuts, from That Go Bump, Our ‘Sea Next month in Part 2 of our San Blas adventures: Things Harris are from Kemah, Texas and are on their sixth year of cruising aboard their tri- Harris are from Kemah, Texas and are on their sixth year maran, again. They are currently exploring Panama and Colombia, soaking up the intoxicat- ing Latin culture and working on their Spanish. Their blog is at www.jandbyachtultraadventure.blogspot.com and some extra to sell to the cruisers. Expect that you will have Kuna families visit- and some extra to sell to the cruisers. Expect that you are extremely polite, curious ing your boat on a daily basis to sell items to you. They a soft tune or sing a sweet by nature, and somewhat shy, and will usually whistle song while approaching your boat. the claws were as big as Bill’sprecision. They arrived with a boatful of gigantic crabs; that we have onboard. So wehand. The crabs were so big, they did not fit into any pot them into a pot. Amazing! removed the claws and even then we had trouble cramming were much appreciated, since fresh fruits and vegetables from the mainland. They carry produce of this high the San Blas Islands are remote and the stores here don’t boxes of wine, flats of beer quality. Along with the produce, we were able to buy eggs, and bottles of rum. coins. The exchange rate is be conducted in US paper currency, US coins or Balboa one Balboa to one US dollar. every island. The coconuts are is uninhabited, the Kunas still own every coconut on part of their livelihood. They sacred and are a staple in the Kuna diet, as well as a supply boats that cruise can sell them to cruisers or to the Colombian trader without asking. Note that through these islands. It is stealing if you take a coconut to the Colombian traders the Kunas will collect your aluminum cans and sell them as well. World Experience’, and Arts & Crafts with the Chief. supply. It is sad to witness the careless acts of some of the native fisherman who will of some of the native fisherman to witness the careless acts supply. It is sad to sell them to from the sea and attempt fish, lobster, conch or crab take any size especially the the small catches and cruisers refuse to purchase the boaters. Most the cruisers, the of the day don’t sell to eggs. But if the catches catches holding educate a group that night. We tried to to feed their large families natives use them that they reef conservation and the damage about the importance of of Kuna natives to no avail. are doing, but Right: The produce vendors come from the Panama mainland with fresh fruit, vegetables, eggs — and beer! Left: Traditional women's clothing includes gold rings through their noses and long strands of beads wrapping their arms from elbows to wrists and legs from knees to ankles to keep them thin Bottom left: Molas are beautifully sewn fabric panels with intricate designs that have both spiritual and cultural meaning. The Kuna women wear them on their blouses, as part of their traditional dress

MILLER MARINE ENGINEERING PARTS AND LUBRICANTS MARINE ENGINEERING PARTS SAINT MARTIN - SINT MAARTEN SAINT MARTIN Chantier Naval Géminga - Marigot 97150 Saint Martin FWI Phone : (+590) 590 870 373 Email : [email protected] www.caraibesdiesel.com Continued from previous page Continued from Sea Life colored coral is teeming The snorkeling in the San Blas is outstanding! The brightly We were told that only women could own land in Kuna Yala. The men work as hunt- land in Kuna Yala. The men only women could own We were told that with fish, lobsters, giant crabs, conch, reef sharks, nurse sharks and at least two really fat bull sharks. However, we heard from other cruisers who have been in this area for several years that overfishing has seriously depleted the abundant seafood ers and fishermen, and the women seem to do everything else. As in parts of Polynesia, do everything else. As in parts and the women seem to ers and fishermen, community does here. We were told that if a a normal part of society transvestites are the tradition of up as women to keep girls, some boys are brought not have enough Blas, Lisa and makers we have seen in San society. The two best mola the matrilineal both transvestites. Vinancio, are — MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 by NewtononNewYear’sDay1773. “Amazing Grace”waswrittentoillustrateasermonbasedonhisexperiencesgiven paign toendtheslavetradeandbeganwritinghymnswithWilliamCowper. into theChurchofEngland.HebecameamentortoWilliamWilberforceincam- Christianity, latergivinguptheslavetradeandreturningtoEnglandbeordained to Godformercy.BoththeshipandNewtonsurvived;converted taining wascaughtinaterriblestormandbatteredsobadlythatNewtoncalledout through JohnNewton,areformedslavetrader.In1748theshipNewtonwascap- wouldn’t havebelievedthatsucharichsoundcouldcomefromonlysixpanplayers. from abouteightto12,beingconductedbyasmartlydressedladyinherthirties.I at thetopofstairswediscoveredagrouphalfdozenlocalschoolchildrenaged said amanseatedontheconcreteoutsidestaircase.Peepingthroughopendoorway found itwascomingfromthefirstfloorofpharmacynexttobar.“Goonup,” window —abeautifulrenditionof“AmazingGrace”.Goingoutsidetoinvestigate,we place. Graduallywebecameawareofsteelpanmusicdriftinginthroughtheopen table wesatat(orwasitthefloor?)hadapronouncedslope.Itjustoursortof wall, thewoodenfloorboardswerevisiblethroughholesingreylinoleumand back streetsnearthewaterfront.Cratesofemptybeerbottleswerestackedalongone too farfromheretoPuertoRicoortheDominicanRepublic. byChristineGooch of Africanslaves,butwealsonoticedquiteafewpeoplespeakingSpanish;it’snot Kitts &Nevis.Thelocalpeoplearefriendlyandcourteous.Manythedescendants archway revealedahiddencourtyard.Nevisispartofthetwin-islandnationSt. balconies andwideoverhangingroofs.Morethanonce,aglancethroughstone buildings incandycolours—paleblue,mintgreenandsunshineyellowwith that thenarrowstreetsarefilledwithstonewarehousesandshutteredwooden ping backintime.Manyoftheoldcolonial-erabuildingshavebeenpreserved,so on theinternetandwecouldhavesavedourselvesalotoftroubleifwe’dchecked.) information hasprobablybeenupdatedinthelatesteditionofcruisingguideor could havepickeduponeofthewhitebuoysoffPinney’sBeach.(Okay,Iknow When hecamebackreportedthattheyellowbuoyshadbeenwashedawayandwe waterfront whereCustomscouldseetheboatwhileKevinwentashoreindinghy. should tieuptoinordercheckin.Eventuallywedecidedhoveraroundthe Charlestown anchoragelookingfortheCustomsbuoysourcruisingguidesaidwe Ruins oftheoldslavemarket Nevis: Later Idiscoveredthat“AmazingGrace”hasaconnectionwithnearbySt.Kitts While exploringthetownwestoppedtoquenchourthirstatVic’sBarinoneof Stepping ashoreinCharlestown,themaintownofislandNevis,islikestep- “Where aretheseyellowbuoys,then?”Igrumbled,aswemotoredupanddown Stepping intoHistory ALL ASHORE… which prohibitedtradewithallbutBritishEmpireshipsexceptinanemergency. Nevis whilehewasstationedinAntiguatoenforcetheBritishNavigationActs, Charles. (YoucangetamapfromtheMuseumofNevisHistory.)Nelsoncameto services totheUSeconomy. Then lookataUS$10note.Hewasgiventhathonourforeverinrecognitionofhis founded WallStreet,theNewYorkfinancialcentre.Wanttoseeaportraitofhim? Franklin. HamiltonwrotemanyofthearticlesinUnitedStates’Constitutionand where hestudiedatwhatlaterbecameColumbiaUniversityandmetBenjamin Croix toearnmoneyhelpprovideforhisfamily.LaterheemigratedtheUSA, all related.Slavesarrivingintheplantationstooknameofplantationowner.” that. Butbecausetheyhavethesamesurnameitdoesn’tnecessarilymeanwere lost severalpeopleinthedisastershesmiledandexplained:“Alotoftellme Narrows. Whenwecommentedtothemuseumguidethatitwassadmanyfamilies August 1st,1970whentheSt.Kitts–Nevisferry best slaves,sotoplacatethem,occasionallyshipswouldcallfirstatotherislands. islands complainedthattheNevisianplantationownersalwaysgotpickof around 7,000slaveswerebroughttoNevisbesold.Plantationownersonother Nevis becamethecentreofCaribbeanslavetrade.Between1674and1689 to bethebestinWestIndies. West Indiaplanter”wasawell-knownEnglishexpressionandNevis’ssugarsaid cane productionmeantthatplantationownersamassedvastfortunes;“Asrichasa eagerly snappedupatthewharfandhustledofftochurchbemarried.Sugar women ontheislandbecametentoone.WomenarrivingfromEnglandwouldbe mostly menhopingtomaketheirfortune,whichmeantthattheratioof eat it.In1628EnglishsettlersarrivedfromSt.Kitts.MorefollowedEngland, before youcanknockanailinhavetodrillpilotholeandeventermiteswon’t vitae sailors. Bythelate1500sEuropeanswerevisitingislandtocutdown that thecloudoftenhidestopofMountNevisresembledsnowtopassing showed theisland’snameas“Nieves”—fromSpanishwordforsnow.Itseems the islandSanMartinasitwasfirstsightedonSt.Martin’sDay.Butby1540maps Amerindians. ChristopherColumbusanchoredovernightinNovember1493,naming its giveagoodoverviewofthehistoryNevis.Theislandwasoriginallysettledby on thewaterfront,standslandonceownedbyHamilton’sgrandfather.Theexhib- also wantedtofindoutwhoAlexanderHamiltonwas.TheMuseumofNevisHistory, that LordNelson,thefamousEnglishadmiral,hadmarriedaNevisianwidowandI The MuseumofNevisHistory The NelsonMuseumisashortwalkoutofCharlestowninthedirectionFort But backtoAlexanderHamilton…BorninNevis,attheageofninehewentSt. Outside themuseumisapoignantmemorialto227peoplewhodrownedon Near tothemuseumyoucanstillseeruinsofslavemarket.From1671 This wasourfirstvisittoNevisandIhadbeenlookingforwarditbecauseknew trees. Thismusthavebeenadifficulttaskasthewoodissodenseitwon’tfloat; Christena rolled over and sank in The rolledoverandsankinThe —Continued onnextpage lignum MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 .com in their 38-foot Prout catama-

Green vervet monkey . Traditional buildings now house small businesses Sweet Sensation Opposite the Bath Hotel is an area of scrubland and sparse trees. I caught sight of Opposite the Bath Hotel is an area of scrubland and sparse as it was 20 years ago” Nevis is a delightful mixture. Charlestown is “the Caribbean “Come discover the most The slogan on the tourist brochure we picked up was Christine and Kevin Gooch are sailing the Caribbean The imposing Bath Hotel is reputed to be the oldest hotel in the Caribbean. Built The imposing Bath Hotel is reputed to be the oldest surrounded by landscaped around 1778, at the height of its popularity it was Nelson’s wedding was grounds known as The Gardens of Jericho. A ball to celebrate golf course in the Caribbean held there and in the 19th Century the first nine-hole times since then, it now was built in the grounds. Abandoned and re-opened several houses the Premier’s Ministry. of green vervet monkeys had a movement out of the corner of my eye: a troop the grass. These small, timid emerged from the trees and was scampering across owners as pets. Most of them monkeys were originally brought to Nevis by plantation in cages outside bars, are now wild, but we did see a few unfortunate specimens presumably as tourist attractions. and welcoming, — a charming colonial town whose residents are down-to-earth of Mount Nevis have been while many of the former plantation houses on the slopes turned into elegant boutique hotels. enchanting little island in the world”. We were glad that we had. trying very hard to sell us something, but not in a pushy way. The Bath stream water not in a pushy way. The Bath to sell us something, but trying very hard Amerindian been used for bathing since properties and has has healing mineral beautiful water’. Nevis Oualie — ‘land of I assume is why they called times, which ran, Left: Bath stream from hot springs Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours • Refrigeration Work • Quiksilver Surf Wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café & Bar • Restaurant • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop Book Exchange • • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238

BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS - ASA SAILING SCHOOL BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS Since 1984 Since

Continued from previous page Continued from Near to the Nelson Museum the Bath spring emerges from the ground at a tem- Near to the Nelson Museum the Bath spring emerges In Charlestown Harbour he found four American ships, which he promptly he promptly American ships, which Harbour he found four In Charlestown

[email protected] www.barefootyachts [email protected]

perature of 107° Fahrenheit. It runs down a rocky channel overhung with trees to a perature of 107° Fahrenheit. It runs down a rocky channel I went to put my hand in small pool and bathhouse that are still in use today. When the water of the stream a local stopped me: “Not there — it’s too hot. Go down there.” Even further down, the water was still the temperature of a hot bath. We hadn’t brought swimming costumes and towels, but we could have bought them from a lady who also sold cold drinks and snacks. We almost felt guilty we didn’t, as she was efficient way she ran her uncle’s large estate. The two fell in love and were married fell in love and were married efficient way she ran her uncle’s large estate. The two entry in the Parish Register. at Fig Tree church on Nevis, where you can still see the a mistress, Lady Emma The relationship later turned sour and Nelson took body was returned to Hamilton. After his death at the Battle of Trafalgar, Nelson’s and he was given a State England in a barrel of brandy to preserve it on the voyage conspicuous by their absence Funeral attended by 2,000 people. Two people were — his wife and his mistress. impounded. The Nevis merchants, to whom the confiscated cargoes belonged, tried belonged, tried the confiscated cargoes Nevis merchants, to whom impounded. The forced to stay the uproar that Nelson was for damages and such was to sue Nelson in his favour. the lawsuit was decided ship for two months until on board his stood bail for owners, John Herbert, one of the plantation Rather generously, met Herbert’s This was where Nelson invited him to his plantation. Nelson and even Nelson with the son, who impressed Nisbet, a widow with a young niece Frances — ALL ASHORE… CC: WE ALL LEARN FROM ONE ANOTHER

Where do we begin to express what a pleasure it brings us to share our cruising adventures with others — especially the joy we feel in our hearts when we inspire Hiking and Liking others to go for their dreams? We will celebrate our sixth year of full-time cruising — over 30,000 nautical miles — this month. After cruising the US South and East Coast and the Eastern St. Eustatius Caribbean, we have been exploring the Western Caribbean. We have had so many amazing adventures while cruising and some of the most extreme highlights have been encountered in the Caribbean. by Jo-Anne Nina Sewlal The cruising life is an amazing life, but it is always important to inform and to be informed, whether it be information about great cruising areas, a calendar of upcoming fun events, security, how to repair this or that, etcetera. The Compass is For one week in mid-January 2015 I had the pleasure of visiting the island of St. Eustatius, or the perfect tool for those currently cruising or for those who live vicariously “Statia” as it is commonly called, to do a biological survey of the spiders found there. Statia is through others. It is a great way to spread a wealth of information both on and located in the northern Leeward Islands, to the southeast of the Virgin Islands and northwest of off the water. St. Kitts & Nevis. St. Eustatius together with Saba and Bonaire make up the Netherlands We have visited places of which we have heard both positive and negative Antilles. comments, and we take into consideration all of those comments. It is essential Although Dutch is taught in the schools on the island, most of the population speaks English for the boating community to have the capability to gather this information and or the dialect that you commonly hear in all of the English-speaking islands in the Caribbean. St. all of the facts about cruising areas. These comments can save money, property, Eustatius is a melting pot. When you visit you will also hear some people speaking Spanish, as health, and even someone’s life. Some other publications only want to print posi- tive comments and others just negative comments, however, we feel CC prints the facts — the good, the bad and the ugly — in order to keep us all informed. We commend CC for staying true and publishing the fun as well as the facts, and giving us yet another resource to gather information.

Stopping in Statia? Bring your hiking shoes and enjoy dramatic views

there is a small community from the Dominican Republic. You will also notice that the street signs are in Dutch and that many signs are bilingual. We arrived on a Saturday afternoon and found to our surprise that most of the stores were closed. Our host told us that the reason was that the majority of the population are Seventh-Day Adventists who observe the Sabbath from 6:00PM on Friday to 6:00PM on Saturday. As a result, stores open after 6:00PM on Saturdays and stay open quite late. Many stores will also be open on Sunday mornings. This tiny island, measuring only 21 square kilometers, has a lot to offer in terms of ecotourism. In order to carry out the survey, my colleagues and I had to do a lot of hiking, which is excellent here. Statia also has impressive reefs and provides hours of enjoyment to the snorkeler and scuba Bill recalls when his parents would go to AAA (American Automobile Association) diver. and request a trip route across country. They in turn received the most efficient This article gives a brief summary of the hiking available on the island if you want to fill up a and safest route available. Unfortunately, AAA does not provide that for cruisers, spare week in your cruising calendar. however, through the dissemination of information via CC and other resources, The urban areas are basically separated into two areas. One is a small area concentrated we all can make an educated decision on which course to select. Furthermore, within walking distance of the airport. The second is the capital, Oranjestad, which is separated the Caribbean Compass articles, ads, and calendars keep us all up to date on all into two sections: Upper Town and Lower Town. Lower Town, as its name suggests, is located of the great happenings in the Caribbean. It is a wealth of information and we closer to the coast. are truly grateful. With such a small population — about 3,500 people — and compact urban area, there is We all learn by telling stories and reading what others have experienced or what no public transport on the island and people get around with bicycles, mopeds or motor they want to experience. We see what others can do, and we say to ourselves, vehicles. “Hey, we can do that, too” or “Hey, that looks interesting; we want to do that, too.” When it comes to hiking, St. Eustatius National Parks (STENAPA) has cut and maintains seven Or even, “Hey, those people are crazy; what the heck would they do that for?” hiking trails: Quill, Couchar, Around the Mountain, Panorama Point, Mazinga, Botanical Garden Traveling is our passion and the writing bug bit us both long ago, so CC is a won- and Crater. STENAPA is also in charge of three national parks on the island: Marine Park, Miriam derful outlet to quench our thirst for writing. Our mission is to always be chal- Schmidt Botanical Garden and the National Park, which is in two parts: a dormant volcano called lenged and also to look for the good in everything, whether choosing a course The Quill (the English translation of the Dutch word for “pit”), and White Wall. that we have taken before or one that no one has ever taken before. By sharing To access the hiking trails you pay the annual National Park entrance fee (US$6), which these stories through CC, others reading about our experiences just might learn includes a hiking tag and a mini-guide with a trail map. something new and be encouraged to follow the same course. We cannot stress The most popular trail is the Quill Trail. As you hike up the Quill it is not uncommon to see a enough our feelings on how significant tourism is to the economic growth of these chicken or goat in the understory vegetation. At the end of this trail you are presented with many Caribbean countries. We hope that our articles encourage others to visit them choices of other trails to follow. The Around the Mountain Trail takes approximately four hours and to bring their wonderfully helpful tourist dollars. and goes around the Quill a bit above its base. It is one of the easiest trails in the National Park Some people, however, can only dream about doing certain things in life. They system. Along the way you pass White Wall, a sheer limestone cliff on the south side of the vol- might not be physically able do the task, not be mentally prepared for the task, cano. not be financially able, or they may have another hundred reasons why they The Mazinga Trail leads up to the highest point on the island at 600 metres. cannot do it. However, in the end, they hopefully gain tremendous satisfaction by Another popular set of trails, consisting of three ridges and the Butterfly Trail, is on Gilboa simply reading about someone else’s adventures. These articles in CC are more Hill on the north of the island. The Butterfly Trail is the easiest, and the Second Ridge the most than just articles: they are about dreams fulfilled. How beautiful is that! difficult. The vegetation here is a stark contrast from that found at the Quill and consists of Our landlubber family and friends are hooked on CC, too. The online magazine thorny shrubs and cacti growing in clusters among the grass. Most of the rain is caught by The is marked as a favorite on their computers and phones. Every month they catch Quill, as the clouds move over it and the rest of the island is left in a rain shadow. up on all of the wonderful things happening in the Caribbean. JoAnne’s grand- The trails are marked with flagging tape and with arrows on wooden signs that are hung on mother used to look forward to when hard copies were mailed to her from our trees. However, where trails cross it is easy to get turned around, even if you are following the friends who were located in places where issues were available on the counter. arrow as you jump over to another trail. Although the terrain is manageable it is quite easy to get She always said to us, “How many more years are going to be on that boat? lost. Therefore, it is advised to hire a tour guide for the more challenging hikes such as the Don’t you all ever get bored?” Our answer to her was, “Never. We love it and we Mazinga or the Crater Trails. (It is advisable to hike with a partner or in a group on all of the trails love sharing it with you!” Unfortunately, she passed away in December, but we in case of injury.) are so delighted that we were able to share this magazine with her and for her to Gilboa Hill is quite tricky in that the trails are quite narrow and really just trodden pathways really understand our life and others who live the same lifestyle. in the grass; an inexperienced hiker could be following a goat trail instead of the official trail. On We have only been writing for CC for a few years now, but have enjoyed every Gilboa Hill you see many low stone walls. These were constructed using slave labour to prevent minute of it! We sincerely appreciate the professionalism that CC brings to us erosion when the torrential rains came, usually around November, and to mark land boundar- amateur writers. Sometimes we are traveling when we are writing and experience ies. countless technical issues while doing so. With the Compass Crew at the helm, it The most challenging hike is the Crater Trail. It is not the hike up to the crater’s rim that is makes for smooth sailing for us. difficult, but the hike that goes down into the crater itself. Just a few feet in, the dry evergreen We look forward to many more fun years of working with Caribbean Compass. forest turns into a lush rainforest. At one time the trail was more accessible, but after a period of Congratulations on 20 amazing years! We wish you many more and send big hugs heavy rain in 2010 much of the path was eroded, so be prepared to do some serious climbing as to all the hardworking crew. We wish we were there to celebrate with all of you! you make your way in and out of the crater. There are ropes to aid you along the way. Owing to Bill and JoAnne Harris the moist conditions the rocks are quite slippery and a badly placed step could result in injury. S/Y Ultra Hiking guides can be arranged for at the STENAPA office and at the Tourism Office located in Fort Oranje in the capital. —Continued on next page MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29

CHRIS DOYLE

. PM , said, “We Compass newsletter and the Secretary Mondays through Thursdays and PM Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands The tiny commercial wharf at Oranje Baai. Nearby are a dozen yacht moorings to 5:00 AM Environment Tobago on Fridays. See Chris Doyle’s PM to 4:00 AM Continued from previous page Continued from Anniversary note: Betty Karl, writing in the September 2002 issue of Jo-Anne N. Sewlal of the Department of Life Sciences of the University of the West Indies Yachting infrastructure is quite young on Statia, and Oranje Baai is the only anchorage. If you are looking for additional trinkets, the Mazinga on the Bay gift shop on Gallows Nevertheless, if you are looking for a souvenir that is uniquely Statian, you have to get The archeologists are also studying Statia’s famous blue beads. Beads were used as cur- The archeologists are also studying Statia’s famous blue Some of the structures on the Fair Play estate include the Great House, where the plan- Fair Play estate include the Great House, where the Some of the structures on the On our last full day on the island we got to go on an archaeological dig at the Fair Play island we got to go on an archaeological dig at the Fair On our last full day on the How are you going to fuel all of your hiking and snorkeling or scuba diving? There are and snorkeling or scuba going to fuel all of your hiking How are you If you prefer the beach to the forest, there are three main beaches: Oranje Bay, Zeelandia are three main beaches: Oranje beach to the forest, there If you prefer the of the Trinidad & Tobago Chapter of the Caribbean Academy of Sciences. enjoyed our visit to Statia and were glad we stopped. We’ve found that the smaller islands seem to be the friendlier ones, especially when most cruisers bypass them. So, visit the islands people don’t talk about much; you’ll be pleasantly surprised.” St. Augustine Campus is the Editor of the for more boating details. All coastal waters are part of the National Park, and a charge of US$10 per night or US$30 per week includes the use of one of 12 yacht moorings. The fees are collected by the Park Rangers; the Park Office is open from 8:00 The Scubaqua Dive Shop a few metres away also sells souvenirs and postcards. The STENAPA office, also located on the waterfront, has a range of postcards and in addition to their hiking guides they have books on Statia’s wildlife, both terrestrial and marine. from 8:00 Bay offers a wide selection as well as postcards. They open afternoons from 1:00 to 6:00 blue beads. Replicas of these beads are sold at the dive shop opposite STENAPA’s office in Gallows Bay for US$20. The other dive shops along that stretch sell loose African trading beads: the large ones are sold for US$10 and the small ones for US$8. The blue bead leg- end is quite popular on the island and one of the first restaurants you will see is the “Blue Bead Bar and Restaurant” on Gallows Bay. rency in the slave trade: slave traders would trade with tribal chiefs their prisoners of warrency in the slave trade: slave traders would trade with given to slaves as a form of cur- from other tribes. It is also believed that these beads were rency. The different shapes of the beads represent the countries they are from. The round beads are African trading beads, but the five-sided ones are unique to Statia. However, the legend of blue beads has evolved over the years. It is now said that you have to give the first blue bead you find to a friend, and that if you do that, you will eventually find another one. It is also said that if you find a blue bead, the island has chosen you to return. However, keeping blue beads or removing them from the island is illegal, as they are historical arti- facts. If you do find any you have to turn them in at the Caribbean Netherlands Science Institute located on Saddlerwey. overseer and the slaves. Compared to other islands in colonial times, we were told that overseer and the slaves. Compared to other islands and this included slaves. They had everyone on Statia enjoyed a better standard of living, persons, complete with a hearth for larger living quarters, housing on average two to five found plates of Chinese cooking. In hiding places in these living quarters archeologists rather than the earthenware plates porcelain — castoffs from the great house, no doubt — in that the production started found on other islands. The layout of the estate is strategic ended up down the hill, making at the highest point on the estate and the finished product the work easier. tation owner lived and where they are currently excavating, the boiling house, and a wind- they are currently excavating, the boiling house, and tation owner lived and where animals survived). There is evidence of gears, indicating that mill (only the stone base has for the to provide power. Other structures include quarters (or slaves?) were also used Plantation, where Reese Cook, the Director of Archaeology at the St. Eustatius Center for the Director of Archaeology at the St. Eustatius Center Plantation, where Reese Cook, a sugar us a brief history of the island and the estate. It was Archaeological Research, gave did not conditions on the island, which include a lack of water, estate, although the harsh times sector. However, the island was wealthy in colonial make for a thriving agricultural almost which kept down the cost of imports. One could get because there was no tax, a was the trading centre of the Caribbean for approximately anything on Statia, which the island the nickname “The Golden Rock”. century. This reputation earned many supermarkets and minimarts on the island. But if you are in the mood for going out, island. But if you are in and minimarts on the many supermarkets the waterfront. Then in Lower Town along House and a few other eateries try the Old Gin island: food. There are two Chinese restaurants on the there is the old standby: Chinese the way Paramiraweg and the Hong Kong restaurant located on Yummy Tummy located on I would store located at the end of Saddlerwey sells not what to White Wall. The Chinese for US$6. of fried chicken for US$3 or a portion of ribs call snacks. It offers half portions in the which are the small round fried breads typically found They also sell Johnnycakes, get a plain one for US$1 or one with cheese for US$2.50. Eastern Caribbean. You can Beach and Lynch Beach. All of these beaches have an undertow and no lifeguards; it is rec- have an undertow and Beach. All of these beaches Beach and Lynch for sunbathing. Theat Zeelandia but it is ideal no swimming be done ommended that from December to according to the time of year; on these beaches varies amount of sand months there is shore, but for the remaining waters deposit sand onto the March, calm strong wave action. — MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 cups ofcoffeeweremixedamongtheBudweisers. “Bottoms Up”.CNNwasonTV.PerkytheGrumpbartender.Mid-morning far leftseatinaSt.Thomasboatyardbarthateverybody(buttheowner)calls island intheCaribbean.Itwasloveatfirstsight. It portrayedaclassicEnglishsailingyachtroundingthemark,someplacedown and tohold.Ithadahighquality,brightblue-and-whitephotoonthefrontcover. ing acheckfrom This beingtheCaribbeanandboating,whenwesetsailforCarriacouIwascarry- met them,aftercrewingonagaff-riggedschoonerfromVenezuelatoBequia. ran regularlyuntil2001. ions, liesanddamnedintothemix).Itmust’veworkedbecausecolumn the worldIsawandgaveitatwist(that’swhatwriterscallstirringhalf-truths,opin- Caribbean in1995),Ifoundmyselfdoingthecolumn“FloatStreetNotes”.took in. SoIsentmore,andwithlightningspeed(bearinginmindthiswasthe needed, opinionandtouchesofwhimsy. much time,hadcopies.Ilovedit—awondrousmixoftheinformationboaters to it wasripeforthetelling. strange newworldaroundme,withtheemphasison called Grenada’sGooeyLagoon. ries hadlittleincommonwiththelifeorpeoplesurroundinguswhatwehappily Josh Slocumlivedaboardanythinglessthanamega-yacht.Thepeopleandsto- and scratchedmyhead.Theeditorsseemedtothinkthatonlypeoplerelated word) ofourboat,wediscoveredCaribbeanboatingandthecommunity. tional waytogetintoboating,I’lladmit.Takingcommand(probablythewrong ence —DagnyandIhadlivedonajunkinHongKong,rental.Nottheconven- drawing thatIsketchedinaboutthreeminutesstillgivesmeasmile. wrote aboutwhatIfeltwhilestillacruiser.Thearticlehadcrudehumorous laden littleschoonerbythenameof that wedreamedofvisitingsomeday.Itwasgoingtobedoneinabrightwork- Compass to therumshop,oldseadogmanagedgetmepayfordrinks. stories (PayPal?What’sthat?).ItwasgoodtoseeJohnagain,butwhenwewent than sentences.Onboard writing for Boston aboutthetimeIheadedtoislands,butitwasduring had retiredastheheadoflanguagedepartmentSuffolkUniversityin tor tomeandseveralotherCaribbeanwriters.Afellowcruiser,CleoBoudreau, importantly ledtomeetingamanwhobecameveryimportantfriendandmen- published abook. Caribbean together in each newissueandseemycolumnsomewhere,hopefullytowardthefront. whatever caughtmyeye,aptlytitled“EyeOntheVI” regular monthlycolumnforthe rejoin themoneymakingregatta.ButIkeptmysanityforfiveyearsbydoinga years later. enjoy hearinghimtearitapartsoIcould rewriteitoverthenextfewdays. one monthlycolumnaboutmyfavoritedrink,thengotoCleo’sboatandactually me, “Everyoneneedsaneditor.”Andthen,“Don’thateyour was, seeminglywithoutanyeffortatall.EarlyoninourfriendshipCleohadtold draft intheother,CleowouldreadmywordsandtellmewhatahorriblewriterI and JamaicafortheHamiltonMinistryof RumCollection. ner ofpublicationslater,I’mimportingrum fromGuyana,St.Lucia,Martinique upcoming storyaboutrum.Severalmore booksandnumerousarticlesforallman- Jupiter Inlet, have been. Pushing throughthe The Sally andTomweregreatfuntoworkwithitwasapleasurewhenIfinally A fewyearslater,ontheSpanishMain,somefriendssuggestedIsendmystories While keepingour1941ex-BritishNavyfixer-upperafloat,Iwrotestoriesaboutthe As aformermagazineeditorI’dreadtheslickpublicationsaimedatboaters Float Street This istheancienttaleofanearlycolumnist. I rememberthatdaywhensawmyfirst Ed Teja,http://teja-ed.blogspot.com Twenty yearsagoIhadjustpublishedmyfirstbook, Rob Kunkel,St.Thomas,USVI I thinkitwasmybest.Funnythingaboutthat. I’m delightedthatdespitethesocialandtechnologicalchanges Writing for The articlethatIremembermostisveryfirstonewrote,pounded We cruisedtheCaribbeanforayear,andthencamehometoSt.Thomas About tenyearsagoIhelpedCleosail I missthattimeinmylifewhencouldspendtwoorthreedaysputtingtogether Thanks Ed Hamilton,www.ministryofrum.com Caribbean Compass Compass Compass

still meetstheneedsofboatingcommunity.That’ssuccess. on Caribbean We cruisedthe Compass , andwasoneoftheleastexperiencedwritersIknewwhohadactually Windolee’s Compass CC: THOSECRAZYCOLUMNISTS , lyinginGrenada,wasourfirstboat,butnotboatingexperi- Windolee Time hadstories,picturesandinsiderinformationaboutexoticplaces magazinewaswaitingonthedocktointerview meforan ; Ihopethenext20yearswillbeasgood asthelast20 Compass thatheofferedtohelpmecraftwordsintosomethingmore gavemeanopportunitytogrowasawriterbutmore Daily Newses fo’c’slinGrenada.Thetitle:“TheCaribbeanBarko” . Plaut’sboatyardinCumaná,wherewespentfartoo Melibea forJohnSmithof Compass , Isawmyown , withacoffeecupinonehandandmylatest Windolee Melibea , startingin2001.Itdelvedlightlyinto Compass Caribbean Compass Mermaid ofCarriacou . ThemateandIdiditafew toFlorida.Whenwearrivedat Caribbean Compass publishedthefirststoryIsent Rums oftheEastern strange. . It wasatruehonortoopen How couldIresist— . Iwassittinginthe Caribbean forhisrecent tohave . I (south) andLaRomana(south-east). on thesoutheastcoast(640nauticalmiles)thereareonlytwoairports:LasAméricas Santiago, PuertoPlata,andPuntaCana.FromtheWindwardPassagetoIslaSaona northeast coastoftheDominicanRepublic,therearethreeinternationalairports: In thenavigationzonefromMontecristitoCaboEngaño(250nauticalmiles)on nas wheretheycanreplenishtheirsupplies. where theycanstopandenjoytheislandstowns,hascalmseasmari- age isnorthof50.TheylookforapassagetotheCaribbeanthatsafe,hasplaces the passagetoCaribbean. improved marinasinJamaica,theWindwardPassageissuggestedasanoptionfor Puerto RicotowardtheVirgin,LeewardandWindwardIslands. north coastofLaHispaniola,SamanáBay,theMonaPassage,andcoasts Caribbean hadanestablishedroute:Florida,theBahamas,Turks&Caicos, exist, everysailorwhowantedtogofromtheeastcoastofNorthAmerica great friendAndreafromthebrigantine Vache Island,withPortMorganMarina,andpossiblyJacmel,stopsfavoredby my coast wherestoppingisstillunthinkabletomostcruisers,exceptfortheidyllic and CentralAmerica.OnesubjectthatstressessailorsinthispassageisaHaitian does itgetnasty.FromthewestcoastofHaitinextstepisCuba,thenJamaica usually notverywindysoyouoftenmotorsail.Onlywithnorthandnortheastwinds is theWindwardPassage.Thispassagegenerallyeasyand,despiteitsname, is catamaran of 7daysand2hoursthatbelongstoOrestesTrifiliohiscrewaboardthe46-foot in 2013underthename360ChallengeNon-Stop,withanon-stopnavigationrecord Challenge, inwhichsome20sailboatsparticipated.Itwasheldasanon-stoprace ages andmarinas.Theeventwasrepeatedin2010,renamedtheHispaniola360 (i.e. HaitiandtheDominicanRepublic)in14days,withstopsat11differentanchor- Vuelta alaHispaniolain2007,consistedofsailingaroundtheisland with itsfourtheditionhappeninginFebruary2016.Thisevent,foundedasthe sailors whohavetogothroughbothpassagesduringthesamerace. what dothesailorsthathavetogothroughbothpassagesthink?Thatis,those —Continuedonnextpage tives foranchorages,portsandmarinas. Republic’s northcoastperfectiftheobjective issafenavigationwithdifferentalterna- Cabeza deToroinBavaroandMarinaCap CanainHiguey,makingtheDominican Luperón, MarinaOceanWorldinPuerto Plata,PuertoBahiaMarinainSamaná, others. MarinasincludeClubNáutico Montecristi, MarinaTropicalinBahiade Maimon, Sosua,RioSanJuan,Samaná Bay,CabezadeToro,BocaYuma,and North coastanchoragesincludeManzanillo, Montecristi,LaIsabela,Luperón, Montecristi toIslaSaona,withbothnatural anchoragesandexcellentmarinas. in thenorth. and CaboMongo,itisverydifferentwithoutcomparisontosailingdownwind along thesouthcoastwithwavesandwindfromahead,especiallyatIslaBeata Challenge saildownwindalongthenorthcoast.Whentheyturnandstartto sail these donotprovideeventhebasicservices. in thesouth,but(asidefromSalinas,SantoDomingoandBocaChicaareas) in thearea.ItistruethatDominicanRepublichasalotofnaturalanchorages boats andhavefounddifficultiesbecauseofthelackfacilitiesservicesoffered round-the-island event.Someofthemhavesufferedseriousbreakagesaboardtheir most tediousandhatedbythesailorswhohavesailedcounter-clockwisein this the WindwardPassage,youdecidetoturneast,encounterrouteconsidered northeast coast Las Galerasbeach,northeastofSamanáontheDominicanRepublic’s If theywanttomakecrewchanges,airportswithgoodconnectionsareimportant. Normally, thetripfromNorthAmericatoCaribbeanismadebysailorswhose But, despiteallthis,thepreferredrouteisstillMonaPassage. Now, withnewmarinasandnavigationroutes,thepartialopeningofCuba In thepast,whentherewasaremarkablelackofoptionsandcybernauticsdidnot The onlylogicaloption,whencomingfromNorthAmericatotheWesternCaribbean, The eventprovidesfirst-handproofofthenavigatingconditionsbothpassages. The mostchallengingrallyinalloftheCaribbeanisHispaniola360Challenge, In thisdecisionofonepassageovertheother,weareapplyingasimplequestion: When wesay“northcoast”arereally talkingofthenortheastcoast,from It isalsotruethat,sofar,allthesailboatsinvolvedinHispaniola360 But if,insteadofcontinuingtotheWesternCaribbeanandCentralAmericafrom Windward Passage or MonaPassage? Mi Locura . by TitoBorrell Tres Hombres . MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 18.25.50N 18.25.50N 69.36.67W Dominican Republic • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hr security • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, for clearance • Immigration office in the marina • Free WIFI and Free Internet • Dinghy Dock • 12 miles East of Santo Domingo Airport & 7 miles East of International Books are available from iUniverse and Amazon THE FOCAL POINT FOR CRUISING YACHTSMEN THE FOCALTT iiiii Z rrrrr

Tel: 809 523 5858 VHF Channel 5 aaaaa MMMM Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Marina Zar-Par • High Quality Sheltered Moorings • Slips to 120’ with depth 10’ • 70 Ton Travelift (30' beam) • ABYC certified machanics • Shore power 30, 50 and 100 amps • All slips with fingers

JORGE MENDEZ , in which . Caribbean CC —Continued on page 48 writers brought me fulfilling Caribbean Compass , a 30-year-old Arpege), and was the best way to get news of . I’d never written a real magazine Compass MoonRiver Compass . Well, I wasn’t the only one, there were, to Compass — you added a valuable dimension to my cruis- CC: CLODS was a big part of the best years of my life. . Compass Caribbean Compass . The story appeared in the September 1998 edition. Since then, the at the marina. Reading the has seen fit to publish much of what I’ve been inspired to write and Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass Compass The March 1995: Tony and I lived in a condo in Alexandria, Virginia. On one wall was March 1995: Tony and I lived in a condo in Alexandria, July 1998: we flew to Tortola and purchased a 51-foot sloop, sistership to the one July 1998: we flew to Tortola and purchased a 51-foot Eleanor Tims, UK Although I have long since stopped sailing, guess where my heart still is? The two Our mid-Caribbean rescue story was big news in the marinas, and one cruiser Our mid-Caribbean rescue story was big news in the marinas, Thanks for everything, Ellen Duff / Ellen Sanpere, St. Croix “I didn’t know there were any single-handed sailing ladies!” Sally told me that a male sailor said this to her, on reading one of the articles I But how happy I found I was in Trinidad! Many factors contributed to that, but Meeting Sally and Tom and several other Continued from previous page Continued from Tito Borrell is the Chairman of the Hispaniola 360 Challenge, Tito Borrell is the Chairman of the Hispaniola 360 Challenge, I had the opportunity to sail and live for some years on the north coast, especially I had the opportunity to sail and live for some years on In terms of logistics and total nautical miles, taking into consideration that sailing In terms of logistics and total nautical miles, taking into Lately, another factor that adds insecurity is drug trafficking, which is more com- is drug trafficking, which factor that adds insecurity Lately, another On the other hand, in Boca Chica on the south coast, for example, it is almost south coast, for example, hand, in Boca Chica on the On the other a poster of a 51-foot sloop anchored in Devil’s Bay, Virgin Gorda, which was our a poster of a 51-foot sloop anchored in Devil’s Bay, Virgin together after way of visualizing our dream of sailing/racing in the Caribbean Tony’s retirement. Annapolis to St. Croix, November 1995: We started sailing our 35-foot sloop from Regatta. That was arriving in Fajardo, Puerto Rico, in time for the 1996 Heineken magazine, when I first laid eyes on a classy-looking free waterfront the Compass in the poster. We loaded our gear in St. Croix and sailed to Puerto La Cruz, in the poster. We loaded our gear in St. Croix and sailed Venezuela, where I was pleased to find the English-language comfortably learn about the islands, the seas, and best of all, people. What a fan- tastic introduction! It was the key that unlocked all sorts of doors for me and was fun and stimulating to read. years, on and off, I spent in and around Trinidad were the happiest of my life, and I’m still in touch with some of the friends I made. I even brought back to the UK with me a large pile of — yes, you guessed — the inimitable the sailing community, regatta and destination information, and repair advice. the sailing community, regatta and destination information, suggested I send a write-up to the article before. I gave it a shot and took some photos of the two men we had res- cued halfway between St. Croix and Venezuela. The cruiser said she’d send it to the long-term friendships, a fringe benefit I would not trade for the world. And now, as a Cruiser Living on Dirt (CLOD) on St. Croix, my few pages of fame have followed me, creating instant “old friends” in the most surprising places. was every sort of information I could ever need. That paper was for me a sort of haven; I could relax in my little boat ( ing days and really made a difference in my life. contributed to my knowledge, two others, but I was certainly the oldest, having set sail from the UK in 1996 at the age of 63 and arriving in Trinidad five years later, after crossing (with a little trepidation) from the Gambia and then the Cape Verdes. chiefly, basically, was the wonderful publication Compass photograph. I found that writing about the wonders (and nightmares) of my cruis- ing life was cathartic, defined and preserved unique experiences, and filled a creative need I didn’t know I had. Samaná Bay has long been a stop for cruisers en route from the east coast of North Samaná Bay has long been a stop for cruisers en route America to the Eastern Caribbean www.vueltalahispaniola.com at Luperón Bay, as well as in Boca Chica in the south coast, and my personal opin- at Luperón Bay, as well as in Boca Chica in the south in the Hispaniola 360 ion is the same as that of the sailors who have participated Challenge: To the Eastern Caribbean? By the Mona Passage! from Montecristi to Cabo Engaño by the northeast zone is 250 nautical miles and from Montecristi to Cabo Engaño by the northeast zone is 640 nautical miles, the from Montecristi to Isla Saona by the Windward Passage is to explore the natural south zone is a reasonable sailing option if the objective is to have a planned route beauty offered — and that is a lot! However, if the objective all the chain of islands, the from the East Coast of the US to Trinidad, including Windward Passage is off route. mon along the south coast. This is a huge contrast to the Mona Passage, which has contrast to the Mona Passage, south coast. This is a huge mon along the only during the States, making it safer not monitoring from the United a permanent day but also during the night. impossible to anchor. Aside from Marina ZarPar, which provides moorings and dock- ZarPar, which provides moorings anchor. Aside from Marina impossible to Hotel Don Juan the Marina Makey at the Náutico CNSD is private and age, the Club capital, the Dominican Republic’s enough depth. In Santo Domingo, does not have is no good place Bartolome Colón, there Náutico de Haina and Marina with only Club for anchoring. — MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 staff. AlldonefromaninconspicuouslittlebuildingonabackstreetinBequia. lead toresolutionofthoseconcerns,frequentlywiththehelp impressions andconcerns.Lettersdetailingconcernsstimulatedialogsthatcan able. Factualaccountsofsituationskeeprumourandgossipfromcreatingfalse ing experience.First-handinformationonsituationstobeavoidedisveryvalu- someone else’sdiscoveryofajewel,previouslyunknowntous,enrichesthecruis- which willhelpkeepusintouchisofgreatvalue.Theopportunitytohearabout er forabitthenpartwaysonlytomeetagainmonthsoryearslater,anyvehicle cruisers. Inthisworldwherewemayshareananchorageforatimeorsailtogeth- tures, misadventuresandconcernsofcruisers,writtenbythecruisersthemselves. er hangouts.Buttherealbrillianceofconceptliesinstoriesadven- where neededpartsandsuppliesareavailable,nottomentionlocationofthecruis- as navigationandastronomy.Eventheadvertisementsgivevalue,detailingplaces cruiser radionetsinthevariousislandsandregularcolumnsontechnicaltopicssuch cruisers, suchasdetailsonsourcesforweatherinformation,changesinregulations, informs, delights.Itisrelevantandin-depth.The able serviceandthecreationofaninstitutionincruisingcommunity. ment tomycruisingexperience. tence ofanoutletformydesiretowritehasaddedadditionallayerenrich- tion ofarticlesandpoetryovertheyearshasbeenacherishedprivilege.Theexis- Compass ghy ofhusbandandsons,grabbedacoffeetosettleintothecockpit. shroud andline—sanstheflagpole.ThenIsetbreadtorise,castoffdin- full ofadventureandknowledge. we’ve circumnavigatedtheglobewithoursonsandhaveneverlookedback. rialized forthekids.Wewantedtocruisetheseexoticislands.Thirty-fiveyearslater, Caribbean Compass yeasty breadpan,runningdownthecountertopandontofloor.Oops. mute whenIwentbelowtodiscoveramovinglavaflowthatspewedfromthe life support,nearlygone.“Ah,yes.Well…comeinforhotbreadthen.”ButIstood my surroundings.Halfthelaundryhadblownawayandrestwasdanglingon from St.George’swithwetlaundryandtheAugustissueof sons AdamandWarren(1514yearsold),summerof2002.Ihadjustreturned in mymind.Itchangedlifedramatically. transitioned outofthefunkleftbydevastationapirateattack. network offriendsand there foruselectronicallyandemotionally.Sheconnectedwithheramazing article” wasgoingtopress.ThoughSallycouldn’trescueusphysically,she ed ontheopenseanorthofVenezuelawhileissuefeaturingmy“safety-first ( researching anarticleoncruisersafety:“Re-thinkingLeewardSt.Vincent” theme oflife-longlearningandgrowthisthelensthroughwhichIseeworld. Class” ( my writingdevelopment.Myfirstarticleforthemarinemarket,“ACruiser’sDayin angles aswellphotosubjectsandcomposition—verysatisfyingatthispointin reporting maynotsoundcreativebutIgettochoosesubjectanddescriptive allowed me,inthepurestway,todowhatIlove—creativewriting.Non-fiction career indestinationmarketing,ithasbeenoursixyearsofcruisingthat me. WithpartnerJim,anativeUtahn,wearehardlyyourusualECsuspects. ing, IcametotheEasternCaribbeanbywayofUtah;mountainsalsocall the mightyandminions, the mindsforlocalsandforeigners,readers,vendors,writers,editors.Readby Congratulations Tom,Sally,Wilfred,Elaine andShellese.Fullsteamahead! “ ment chairfortheCaribbeanSailingAssociation andmaintaininganaddressof for mymotherandgrandsonintheStates. Volunteerworkassailingdevelop- ing todowithlackofinterestinthe Rico andVirginIslandsadsalesagent. Compass S/V BoldlyGo During thetenyearswe’vesailed The sharingofstoriesandconcernsreinforcesthesensecommunityamong More thanapublication,the John Rowland The entire “Huh?” Ilookedupfrommytreasuredcopyofthe Husband Petersnickered.“Uh,babe,thebedsheetswentonwalkabout,youknow.” “Hey, myfavshortsaregone,too!”Warrenbellowed. “Mom, myfavT-shirtjustfellinthewater!”Adamhollered. Two hourslater,theguysreturnedfromtheirexpeditionandlifeeruptedintochaos. I wantedanuninterruptedreadingencounter.Sohungthelaundryfromevery My firstexperienceinreadingthe The Tina Dreffin,St.Thomas,USVirginIslands,BahamasCatCharters.com I celebratethe I wasn’ttheonlyonetowanderintoawalkaboutstatuswhenreading I blameditonthe My husband,Peter,andIwerespendinghurricaneseasoninGrenadawithour In 2011,asacontributingwriter,Ifoundmyselfalsobecoming Compass Though inspiredbyletters,words,andthencompositionasachild,after Raised onsouthernCaliforniasunshine,bodysurfingandone-designdinghyrac- Ellen Birrell, Here’s to20yearsof My heartisstillonthe Though I’mnolongeranagentandmycontributed articlesarescarce,ithasnoth- Caribbean Compass Compass has beenaguideandcompanion.Myparticipationthroughcontribu- , November2010).Inanoddcoincidence,JimandIwerebeingpirat- becameendearedtome,workingunderSally’stutelage,while Caribbean Compass S/V BoldlyGo , Somewhere in the EC” eats up what is left of my time and energy. , SomewhereintheEC”eatsupwhatisleft ofmytimeandenergy. , S/V SilverSeas Caribbean Compass , June2010),wasinspiredbyyouthinalearningsituation.The Caribbean Compass . Myhusbandquithislandjob;formalschoolingnevermate- Caribbean Compass Compass Compass CC: STILLABOARD is a brilliant idea. It is a repository for critical information for isabrilliantidea.Itrepositoryforcriticalinformation Compass contributorswhoalsoprovidedsupportaswe team. teamistobecongratulatedfor20yearsofvalu- Compass Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass Silver Seas forleadingusintoarichandrewardinglife isaliving,breathingmechanismthat . isinthefabricofCaribbeanyachting. andanother20tocome. intheEasternCaribbean,The Compass Compass . Currently, I’m caregiving . Currently,I’mcaregiving Regatta 2002 friends, Carriacou Dreffin boysand remainsforeveretched createsameetingof andtookstockof Compass Compass Compass . ’s Puerto

JANE GIBB What IsaConditionSurvey? An OunceOfPrevention: replaced —exceptfortheturnbuckle. turnbuckle justundertheteakbowplatform.Ihadallriggingcompletely up thedolphinstriker.Thewireriggingthathadbeeninplaceledfromaverylarge a result,Ihadtwotooledstainlesssteelbarsmadeuptoreplacethewirethat holds theteakbowplatforminplaceagainstupwardpressureofforestay. As season. PartoftheriggingchangeIhadplannedwastoremovewirethat to separatethewheatfromchaff. are excellentdevelopreputationsbasedontheirexperienceanditisnottoodifficult specialize inpleasurecraftcancomefrommanydifferentbackgrounds.Thosewho Surveyors), butthereisno“one”waytobecomeasurveyor.Yachtsurveyorswho (National AssociationofMarineSurveyors)andSAMS(SocietyAccredited knowledge. Thereareassociationsthatsurveyorscanbelongto,suchasNAMS for marinesurveyors,theyaremostoftensoughtbasedontheirexperienceand and canfunctioninanumberofroles.Whilethereisnosinglecertificationagency selling aboat.Marinesurveyorshavebroadrangeofservicesthattheycanprovide ging onmy65-footketch, deal ofsailingexperience.Someyearsago,Idecidedtochangeallthestandingrig- able asailoryouare,breakdownsoftenhappenunexpectedly. that canputthoseontheboatinadangerousposition.Nomatterhowknowledge- boats, eveninnormalseaandwindconditions,failuredamagecanoccur be ahazardandsourceofconstantupset.Tremendousstressesareplacedon attended tofirst. that canimpactthework.Theremaybeunsuspecteddeficienciesneedto may plantodoanupgradeonyourboatwithoutrealizingthattherearerelatedareas it isalwaysbesttohaveacompletesurveysothatyouknowyourstartingpoint.You condition survey. than others.Thesurveythatyoushouldconsiderhavingdonetoyourboatwillbea problem later. sometimes somethinginnocent-lookingcanbeoverlooked,onlytocauseamajor you toreviewyourboatinacompletelyobjectiveway.Boatsarecomplicatedand Your relationshipwithyourboatissubjectiveanditdifficult,ifnotimpossible,for stern. Itdoesnotmakemuchdifferencehowwellyouthinkknowyourboat. seek outanexcellentsurveyorandhavehimorhersurveyyourentireboat,stemto an excellentwaytodetermineiftheboat isfullyfoundandfitforservice.” survey onyourboat,youmustremember thatyourboatgoestoseaandasurveyis tant partoftheregularmaintenancework onaboat.Whilenoonemayrequire the valueofhavingaboatsurveyundertaken whenitisnotrequired.” on conditionsurveys. more than500boats.Ihadanopportunity tointerviewhimwithregardhisviews has deliveredboatsallovertheworld aperiodoffivedecadesandhassurveyed repairs leftmechagrined. an avoidableone.Noonewashurt,buttheinconvenienceandsubsequentcost of rigging. Thereisnoquestionthatweallmakemistakes,butthemistakeImade was buckle bechangedowingtoitsageandthechangeinloadingcausedbysolid of manyyears’experience,hesaidthatwouldhaverecommendedtheturn- place tosavemoney,butsimplythought(asdidothers)“itlookedgood”. in amatterofjustfewminutes.Ihadnotoverlookedtheturnbuckle,orleftit in with it.Atremendousamountofdamagehappenedinslowmotionmildconditions and thebowspritbrokeinhalf,whichturntooktoerailteak sailing southofGuadeloupeonareachin15knotswind,theturnbucklefailed and ourlittlecommitteevotedtokeeptheexistingturnbuckle.Aboutayearlater, excellent condition.Boththestainlesssteelfabricatorandriggeragreedwith me, An ounceofpreventionisworthapoundcure. When wethinkofsurveysandsurveyors,generallyeitherbuyingor I haveownedandmanagedmanymarinasallofmyadultlifehadagreat Boats canbeagreatjoy.However,boatwhoseconditionisnotwellmanaged Before youdoanyworkonyourboat,includingupgradesthathaveplanned, There areanumberofdifferenttypessurveys,somewhichmoredetailed Even ifyouarenotplanningonsellingit,itisstillverymuchinyourinterestto Bill: “ActuallyFrank,whileitmaysound self-serving,surveysarealwaysanimpor- Frank: “Bill,thankyoufortakingthetime tomeetwithme.Iwouldlikediscuss Billy WrayhashisofficeatthePeakes’BoatYardinChaguaramas,Trinidad.He In discussingthedamagewithBillyWray,aLloydsofLondonapprovedsurveyor Raffles Light — BenjaminFranklin by FrankVirgintino , whiletheboatwasinTrinidadforhurricane

The turnbucklewasoldbutlookedtobein —Continued onnextpage MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 10 11 12 0428 13 0522 14 0617 15 0712 16 0808 17 0901 18 0955 19 1050 20 1156 21 1242 22 1338 23 1434 24 1529 25 1622 26 1712 27 1801 28 1847 29 1931 30 2014 2056 2139 (full moon) 21 22 23 1308 24 1403 25 1459 26 1554 27 1647 28 1740 29 1831 30 1919 31 2009 2051 April 2015 2134 1 2 3 4 2217 5 2259 6 2342 7 0000 8 0026 9 0110 0157 0246 0336 MARCH - APRIL 2015 OF THE MOON (full moon) MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire March 2015 DATE TIME 1 2 3 4 2112 5 2208 6 2253 7 2326 8 0000 9 0019 10 0101 11 0144 12 0227 0312 13 0359 14 0448 15 0540 16 0633 17 0729 18 0826 19 0921 20 1019 1116 1212 make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local. charts. Fair tides! since 2010. Caribbean Compass Continued from previous page Continued from Anniversary note: Frank Virgintino, author of Free Cruising Guides (www.freecruis- If you have not had your boat surveyed in the last four years or so, this is a If you have not had your boat surveyed in the last four years or so, this is a Most surveyors I have dealt with over the years are insightful experienced people. When you receive your survey, read it carefully and comply with remedying any If you have not done a survey in recent years, find a good surveyor and discuss Additionally, when the time does come to sell the boat, the surveys you have on file Surveys can also include valuations that address the question of what the boat Surveys can also include valuations that address the question of what the boat There are other benefits of doing surveys every three to five years. Even if your There are other benefits of doing surveys every three A good survey of a boat has a number of applications. The survey will provide the A good survey of a boat has a number of applications. Regarding failure of stainless steel fittings and rig failure, particularly for boats Regarding failure of stainless steel fittings and rig failure, He also reflects on the need on GRP boats for a periodic check with a moisture check with a moisture He also reflects on the need on GRP boats for a periodic Frank Pearce points out that he agrees with Billy Wray with regard to hose clamps: Frank Pearce points out that he agrees with Billy Wray He had the opportunity to review my discussion with Billy Wray and agrees that He had the opportunity to review my discussion with I also had the opportunity to communicate via e-mail with Frank Pearce, who is a I also had the opportunity to communicate via e-mail “Once the survey is completed, the owner will have a frame of reference that will the owner will have a frame of reference that will “Once the survey is completed, Frank: “How about the expense, Bill; do you think it is worth it?” Frank: “How about the expense, and out of the water, can cost between US$10 and $20 Bill: “A full survey, both in “There are many things that must be examined to determine if a boat is fit for sea. must be examined to determine if a boat is fit for sea. “There are many things that “One of the most notable areas is pre-sailing items, such as seacocks with bodies is pre-sailing items, such as seacocks with bodies “One of the most notable areas Bill: “‘Fully found’ relates to a boat being properly equipped and ready for sea. On properly equipped and ready relates to a boat being Bill: “‘Fully found’ Frank: “I have not heard that term for some time, Bill. Can you explain ‘fully found’ time, Bill. Can you explain not heard that term for some Frank: “I have ingguide.com) has been in the marina business since 1978 and has built, owned and operated marinas in the United States and the Dominican Republic. He has graduate degrees in finance and in education, and taught as a college professor for 13 years. He has sailed in the Caribbean for more than 40 years, and has contributed regularly to good time to give it some thought, so that the next time you haul out, you can good time to give it some thought, so that the next time you haul out, you can “get her gone over”. When you receive your report, you may not like all of the findings, but knowledge is power: having a good survey under your belt makes a great deal of sense. I love having my boat “checked and gone over” and when the survey is concluded and complied with, my sense is that the horizon is now obtainable. I set sail with a sense of confidence that allows me to focus on cruising without much worry regard- ing unexpected problems and failures. deficiencies that may be noted. Keep the survey on your boat as part of the boat’s equipment, as you will refer to it many times. your boat with him or her. Explain how you use it and ask for a condition survey as well as valuation estimates. can assist you with both the pricing as well as the history of the boat; a survey is an independent opinion about your boat and allows for documentation that can be seen by third parties as objective. is really worth. This can come into play with your insurance company to assist is really worth. This can come into play with your insurance company to assist you in avoiding problems of under-insurance and co-insurance where if you do have a claim, you are not paid in full because you failed to insure the boat for its market value. insurance company has not requested a survey in recent years, it is always good to provide them one to let them know you are on top of maintaining your boat. owner with a list of deficiencies that need to be addressed. Areas where the boat is owner with a list of deficiencies that need to be addressed. flares to major items such as deficient can range from small items such as outdated if not attended to. The sur- damaged keel bolts that can contribute to real danger as a frame of reference for veyor will also provide suggestions that can be used plan to use the boat, his sug- future work. If you explain to the surveyor how you make the boat safer and gestions can address changes you might make that should also more reliable. cruising in potentially squally conditions in the Caribbean, Frank points out that cruising in potentially squally conditions in the Caribbean, is a very dangerous matter “there are too many incidents of rig failure.” Rig failure believes that rigging should as it can cause damage, injury and even loss of life. He basis. I have found that be inspected by a reputable rigging specialist on a periodic specialist review the rig- when I have the boat surveyed, I can also have the rigging I am sure! ging and confer with the surveyor, so that I am sure that meter, say every four years. That way the owner has advance warning of poten- meter, say every four years. That way the owner has expense if caught in time. tially serious problems that can be dealt with at less is later surveyed for a Frank adds, “This can save nasty shocks if the yacht potential buyer.” an area of possible failure, especially the “dreaded cheap ones” that have a perfo- an area of possible failure, especially the “dreaded cheap out that he is concerned with rated thread instead of a solid band. Frank also points much imagination to visual- electrolysis of skin fittings. He says, “One does not need is forced to turn using a long ize a circumstance where, while at sea, a stiff seacock the owner have tapered bungs spanner — and that if it sheers off, what then? Does consider: do you know where on board?” This is an excellent point for all of us to yours are? the benefits of periodic surveys are extensive. Many boatowners think that “if it the benefits of periodic surveys are extensive. Many I call “convenient ignorance”. works, don’t touch it.” This type of thinking is what problematic, as no one None of us wants to confront something that is not currently interests are at stake, it is likes bad news — understood! However, when your vital clear on every aspect incumbent upon a boatowner to be well advised and extremely of his vessel and its condition in all areas. Master Marine Surveyor certified by the US Surveyors Association. He is based in Master Marine Surveyor certified by the US Surveyors manages refit projects. Carriacou and not only surveys cruising yachts but also provide an insight, not only to the boat’s current condition, but also to what should to the boat’s current condition, but also to what should provide an insight, not only maintenance over the years to come. A boat whose con- be considered in the way of his can present a very real danger to its owner and dition is not properly managed is worth a pound of family, guests and crew. The adage that ‘an ounce of prevention cure’ is very applicable to boat ownership and maintenance.” per foot or more. A 40-foot boat can average US$500 to $600 for a complete written boat can average US$500 to $600 for a complete written per foot or more. A 40-foot systems. If the survey is done properly, it is a true bar- survey of the boat and her is also affected by the type of survey requested. A pre- gain. The price of surveys the most detailed and thus the most expensive. purchase survey is normally may be priced lower. Insurance and condition surveys Each of these items must be checked and rated to determine if the sum of all items checked and rated to determine if the sum of all items Each of these items must be found and fit’.” results in a vessel that is ‘fully and handles in good condition, working freely and not leaking. All hoses with termi- and handles in good condition, to exhaust systems should be double clamped, nations at seacocks or pertaining both intake and discharge. many surveys I find that the flares are out of date and need to be updated. This can of date and need to be updated. I find that the flares are out many surveys then, if it does a flare may be needed and item until such time as be seen as a small greater danger. may be in a position of the vessel and crew not function properly, that insurers on a sailboat, something be said for the standing rigging The same can in the trop- especially if the boat is cruising an ever-greater interest in, seem to have part of the boat’s old. Standing rigging is a is more than six years ics and the rigging is often overlooked. If the rigging fails during a storm, equipment but its condition worse. the crew can be injured or and how it relates to a survey?” and how it relates — MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 by Laura Albritton Caribbean (www.uncommoncaribbean.com).Founded for WestIndianblogging,surelymustbeUncommon engaging writing. four excellentwebsiteswithbrilliantimagesand new toyou,however,I’dbehonoredintroduce the Caribbean.Incaseworldoftravelblogsis creativity thereis,particularlyamongfolkswholove you regularlyfollow.Itastonishesmehowmuch my imagination. to tracetheauthor’sadventureshasutterlycaptured allows, alongwithitspersonaltoneandone’sability blogs. Somehow,thefocusandinsightthatablog hotels. Butmynewestfixation?Thatwouldbetravel es, ancientsugarmills,andromanticboutique magazines, withtheirtemptingdescriptionsofbeach- More recently,I’veamassedsubscriptionstotravel while othersentertainthearmchairtravelerinme. to Jamaica,theDominicanRepublicandGrenada, explore distantshores.Somehaveaccompaniedme line mybookshelves,eachvolumeaninspirationto Insight Guideswithalltheirluscious,glossypictures, Fodor’s, Frommer’s,LonelyPlanet,andespecially beachcomber gathersprizedseashells.RoughGuides,

Rodney Bay,St.Lucia One oftheverybest,andpossiblygoldstandard Perhaps youalsohavetravelandcruisingblogs For yearsI’vecollectedguidebooksthewayanavid Blogging theC@ribbean Blogging

Tel: (758)4520299

Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope Johnson Hardware Ltd. creation “RumShopRyan”because,asheputsit,… can’t getenoughofthetropics.Thewriternamedhis website hasbecomewildlypopularwithpeoplewho an.com). ThecreationofRyanVanDenabeele,this Caribbean blogsisRumShopRyan(www.rumshopry- Facebook, soInevermissapost. to theirweeklynewsletter,Ialsofollowthemon and travelthroughconstantly.NotonlydoIsubscribe generic descriptionsofaregiontheycareaboutdeeply, What won’tyoufindontheBennetts’blog?Clichésor noon atoneofMartinique’sbestoceanfrontbistros. Spain, thenextmightchronicleanenchantingafter- table “doubles”beingpreparedonthestreetsofPort Caribbean. Onedaytheymightfilmavideoofdelec- present readerswithanauthenticsliceofthe specialty? Eschewingoverexposedsubjectsinorderto Bennett, thisblogpostsnewstorieseveryday.Their by twobrothersfromSt.Croix,SteveandPatrick at ParadiseBeach,Carriacou Inset: Theauthoronassignment Tyrrel Bay,Carriacou Above: IslandRunaways’shotofFrankieatSundowners, Certainly oneofthemostenthusiasticandfun-loving FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE

Fax:(758)4520311 —Continued onnextpage Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners e-mail:[email protected]

ZICKIE ALLGROVE (2) Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 hasn’t hasn’t

, somehow Famous CC . I always looked S/V Famous Potatoes , when we left was brought forth, but I by the deadline and a few years ago. CC in Luperón and it was love in Luperón and it was love and reading Caribbean Compass no matter the strength of no matter the strength of , CC Compass Islands readers. Oftentimes it takes a www.spicenecklace.com Compass CC Compass Caribbean Compass over the years had nothing to do with S/Y Receta, www.freecruisingguides.com Caribbean Compass . And, equally remarkable, in a world where . And, equally remarkable, in a world where Compass just a couple of years after Sally and Tom launched , and congratulations on 20 fine years. Well done! just keeps flourishing, outliving magazines and newspapers just keeps flourishing, outliving magazines and newspapers Compass Compass S/Y Raffles Light, is our dreamland. CC CC: WRITING ON ISLAND TIME(S) ON ISLAND CC: WRITING , as we sailed into Naples Bay, Florida. It was June of 2008 and we had was June of 2008 and we had into Naples Bay, Florida. It , as we sailed and the pleasure became even more intense as I am able to share all that I and the pleasure became even more intense as I am We discovered the Our favourite e-mail from the Congratulations, Compass Crew, and thanks for keeping us laughing and learning. Ann Vanderhoof & Steve Manley, Confession: We couldn’t get this piece to the Which brought home how truly remarkable it is that Frank Virgintino, Had we missed the out-islands of Venezuela, the beautiful coast of Colombia Had we missed the out-islands of Venezuela, the beautiful Thank you for the It is hard to believe that 20 years have gone by since With a cold glass of Pinot Grigio, Des and I toasted our catamaran, of Pinot Grigio, Des and With a cold glass followed sail across the Gulf Stream, began with a harried night Our adventure the I discovered my first copy of Jack Foard, with Des and Lady Pitkeathly, formerly aboard from one location For me as a cruising sailor, over the past decades, in moving write a monthly article for As the years passed (much too quickly) I was invited to Thus began a long and most enjoyable relationship that continues to this day. Thus began a long and most enjoyable relationship that Fueled by informative and alluring articles in the missed a single issue in 20 years other print publications are being smothered by e-sources and social media, we can still stretch out in our cockpit with the the WiFi signal in our anchorage or the waning battery level in our devices. Caribbean Compass that don’t have to deal with the vagaries of life on a small island — not to men- tion contributors (like us, sorry) and suppliers who work (or sometimes not) on island time. it, when we were cruising newbies and Caribbean greenhorns. In its pages, we met characters such as the King of Redonda (and learned how Bob the Bald claimed his crown; serious stuff), and the Minister of Rum (who later became a good friend). Of course, we also picked up all the latest island intel, and even great hikes (thanks, Chris Doyle!). It’s this blend of the practical and the fun that still has us keeping a sharp eye for each new issue. story assignments or blown deadlines. It was a fashion tip. Sally sent us a photo she’d found on the internet, of footwear. “Hurricane heels,” they were called, and they came in assorted colors, to match one’s outfit. The “shoes” were high- heeled snorkel fins. How practical. had to beg Sally for a couple of extra days. Again. Blame it on island time. “Deadlines are an alien concept down here,” she admitted when Ann inter- viewed her and Tom for the American magazine Grenada we took a hard turn west and those 90 degrees made all Grenada we took a hard turn west and those 90 degrees the difference. San Andrés and the and the fabulous old city of Cartagena, the San Blas Islands, of a lifetime. Bay Islands of Honduras we would have missed the adventure eludes easy expression. great deal of work to be able to explain something that However, the effort is well worth it, for in writing for sharing within our we make cruising in the Caribbean better — all of us together community those things that we love. can say in all candor, the cruising life in the Caribbean would be less without it. Please join me in congratulating the entire staff for their ongoing effort to provide such a wonderful medium through which to read, share and dream! “Sueños son sueños” and Potatoes “You of the Caribbean. a two-and-a-half-year circumnavigation just completed what we just did,” I said and are finally qualified to do know, Des, we we laughed. the Bahamas, stopping in the Dominican Republic by a leisurely sail south through for our first hurricane season. of excitement. There to another in the Caribbean, there is always a great deal different things to see. Even are new people and cultures, a new anchorage and a week or more at sea, getting the boat cleaned up and the laundry done after is a great lift. Then there is the lagniappe: returned to the boat, for it and when I found it, it was like a little gift. When we was always the joy of during the quiet hours, perhaps after a sundowner, there about all the happenings. reading about the Caribbean, about other cruisers and A few days later, I would Reading it once slowly is like savoring a wonderful meal. and perhaps revisit pick it up again and see what I had missed in my first reading little newspaper an article that I particularly liked in the first read. This joyous acquired gratis has always brought me joy and delight. CC love about cruising and the Caribbean with wrote Sally and thanked her for her great magazine and received a friendly wrote Sally and thanked her for her great magazine and response with an invitation to become a contributor. at first read. As became my habit, I devoured every article and advertisement. I at first read. As became my

RYAN VANDENABEELE Rum Therapy’s slogan, “When allRum Therapy’s slogan, “When dangers of outdoor showers or get- dangers of outdoor showers fish- ting lost in the bush, these for out-of-water stories make hilarious reading. you need is a little tropication”, blog’struly says it all. This fourth islandmission involves celebrating rumlife and particularly island (www. drinks. On their website find anrumtherapy.com), you will impressive library of home-made col- rum cocktails, illustrated with orful photographs. The husband- and-wife team enjoys discovering the Caribbean, from Anguilla to Jamaica and St. Maarten. Want to vicariously spend an afternoon on CHRISSAN NICKEL Mayo Tear Vibes Wizard The world of travel blogging puts writers Laura Albritton is a book reviewer, free- Anniversary note: People sometimes mend beaches, beach bars, historic sites, island artists, and other terrific island destinations and people. in direct contact with their readers, and that, for us, has been one of the most gratifying aspects of the experience. We have the opportunity to connect with people whose passion for the Caribbean and for travel equals our own. If you, like me, enjoy nothing more than reading about the West Indies, I hope you’ll explore a Caribbean travel blog or two. Each one of the four I highlighted above has its own endearing style, personality, and approach. And if you’re as much of a travel writing junkie as I am, you might wind up following the whole bunch! lance writer, and travel blogger based out of Miami. ask us whether the proliferation over recent years of blogs has cut into RUM THERAPY The more first-hand information people can get about the Miami for Miami for readership. The answer is no; our readership is growing. We have no was published, I recently got my toes wet — in the blogging ocean, that is was published, I recently got my toes wet — in the blogging vive la difference! Continued from previous page Continued from Condensation Ivory Level Footprints These are the names of the whales in the fluke photos on page 39. “Footprints’” My own life-long love of My own life-long love of The latest blog I’ve fallen for bears the intriguing title “Women Who Live on Rocks” Live on Rocks” title “Women Who I’ve fallen for bears the intriguing The latest blog Rum Therapy = rum, sun and a beach on St. Maarten Caribbean the better, we say. match is the fourth from the top! SALTY’S ANSWER Above: Chrissan Nickel, yoga instructor and editor of Women Who Live On Rocks, on Virgin Gorda Below: Ryan VanDenabeele, the blogger behind RumShopRyan.com — by writing guest posts for both Uncommon Caribbean and Rum Therapy. The — by writing guest posts for both Uncommon Caribbean eventually inspired me to start excitement of sharing discoveries with fellow travelers and I post five or six days my own website. Now, my Jamaican-born husband, Zickie, along with managing a a week on our island travel blog, www.IslandRunaways.com, so that readers can recom- Facebook page. We even have a “tip line” on the website Compass’s explanation for this, except to say that magazines and blogs are two different things, and travel and work as a freelance writer led me to try my own hand at guidebook writing. After my book Families Mayreau’s Saltwhistle Bay Mayreau’s Saltwhistle Bay Beach? Or learn where to quench your thirst on Bequia? Their blog directory conve- niently organizes their posts by island, so you can quickly access the tips you’re seeking. Like the other three blogs I’ve mentioned, Rum Therapy maintains a lively social media presence, including a Facebook page brimming with gorgeous island snapshots. (www.Womenwholiveonrocks.com). The brainchild of writer, toucan trainer, and trainer, and brainchild of writer, toucan The (www.Womenwholiveonrocks.com). this is one website whose posts always leave me smil- BVI resident Chrissan Nickel, on out loud!) Some tourists imagine that daily life ing. (And in many cases laughing simply lounging on the beach and sipping umbrella a tropical island involves many contributing writers know, existing on a “rock” drinks. As Chrissan and her the an unflagging sense of humor. Whether describing requires patience, guts, and — as they call come to socialize or ‘lime’ rum shops are where “friends …West Indian rum as equals.” over a flask of all walks of life just conversing it. People from Caribbean rums, stories about various on Ryan’s blog you’ll find Needless to say, boat drinks. for concocting tasty track beach bars, and instructions off-the-beaten best regional each Friday, collects the Weekly Wrap Up”, posted His “Caribbean automatically a Follow his blog and you’re from a variety of sources. travel stories “Castaways”. merry crew Ryan calls the member of the MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 count, structureandcreativity.The Caribbean Compass wanted tobepartofit,andmanagedsharesomestoriesaswell.Forawriter, are thestoriessubmittedbyothercruisers,poemsandletterssection. grab thePDFonlinemonthlyandreadpagesatmyleisure.Myfavoriteparts Caribbean —andevennow,yearslaterthousandsofmilesfurtherwestI would pickupthenewestissueandreaditfronttoback.OnceweleftEastern reading itandeachtimewevisitedamarinestoreorotherboat-relatedvenue,I Darwin arrivedintheCaribbean2008.Forthreeyears,welookedforwardto month avidlyreaditfromcovertocover.Itmeansthatyouguysat and morefor20years.Caribbeancruisersanticipateeveryissue, date withsailing,cruising,recreationalboating,tourism,fishing,environmentalism delivers newsandfun,haskeptlocalsvisitorstotheCaribbeanup ment. For20years! viding Caribbeancruiserswiththismonthlydoseofinformationandentertain- every issuetogetherandtheresultneverfailstoplease. been guidingthereaderwiththisuniquemixoftopicsfor20amazingyears! of mylife. aboard ourveryfirstsailboat, first timethisseasonIhadthepleasureofcruisinginCaribbeanwithmyfamily my case). stories, knowledgeandexperience,nomatterhowlimitedtheymightbe(likein doing anicejob. water, itsattractionandattractions,beingthewayitis.And, culture, sights,people,food,activities,festivities,destinationsin,onandalongthe that providesanall-encompassinginsightintotheCaribbean’sheartandsoul;its illuminating pictures,thought-provokinglettersandmuchmore.Itisamagazine events, interestingstories,intriguing(mis)adventures,insightfulpoems,tastyrecipes, by cruisersforcruisers,amagazineteemingwithusefulinformation,exciting should notliveortravelwithout.Itisthe boats. ItistheoneandonlycompassallCaribbeancruisershaveincommon Compass many newthingsthatIotherwisewouldn’thavedone. for interviewing peopleandgettingaccesstoplacespresentingmyselfas“awriter now sailingandvisitingislandsthinkingaboutthenextstorytowrite.Ievenstarted page! Howextraordinary! for publishing.ItgotacceptedandIevensawoneofmypicturesonthefront Compass to come,onemonthatatime. hope youwillalwaysbetherefortheCaribbeancruisersinnextmanyyears ing. Thankyou, for cruisersbycruisers,andthat’sthebeautyofit—acommunitybasedonshar- boat —thankgoodnessfortheonlineedition! from ourearlydaystothisday.InfactIkeptenoughofthenewspaperssinka and informationthispublicationhadtooffer.Istillhaveclippingstuckedaway were newtocruisingintheEasternCaribbean,soakingupallgreatstories reading thelegendary day! Hopeyouhaveanicecaketocelebrate! some Caribbeannewspaper.Thankyou,thankyouverymuchandhappybirth- ly throughyourmagazine.Congratulations againandkeepupthegoodwork. Bahamas andNorthAmericabutkeepup todatewithcurrent“goingson (when Ihaveahardcopy)alwaysdofrom backtofront,forsomereason! Caribbean. Itisalwaysthoroughlyenjoyable andentertainingtoread—which one whoissailing,cruisingorrelatedtothe waterinanywaytheEastern part of;aseverybodyknows,the privilege ofcontributingtothiswonderful magazine,whichIamveryproudtobe While intheCaribbean,Ilovedmagazineanditscompositionsomuchthat One ofthemanyreasonswhycruiserslovethisfantasticmonthlyreviewisthatit Liesbet Collaert, Congratulations CompassCrewonallyourachievementsandthankyouforpro- The It hasbeenjustafewshortmonthssinceIreadmyfirstissueof It hasbeenjustafewshortmonthssinceIfirstsetfootonsailboat,andforthe But The Cruising theCaribbeanwith But yousee,don’thavetobeajournalistyourstorypublishedin I suddenlybecame“ajournalist”andmyentirelifeasacruiserchanged.was I alsowantedtowriteathankyouletter Mira Nencheva, As SimandIbecamemorefamiliarwiththeislands, Congratulations onyour20thAnniversary.Wow!Whatalandmark.Iremember Maya, 11yearsold, Rosie Burr, Although theCaribbeanisourhomeaway fromhome,wearecurrentlycruisingthe Compass Compass Compass Caribbean Compass . It’senoughtohaveastory,because aswell,anddecidedtosubmitastoryfromourCaribbeanadventures Wandering Star ” whichinturngavemeanopportunitytovisitmanysitesandlearn hasalsogivenspacetous,theCaribbeancruisers,shareour … somuchmorethan CC S/V Irie S/Y FataMorgana CC: FROMFREELANCERS forthisopportunity,Iamsogladyouarethereusanddo S/Y FataMorgana provides alotoffreedominregardstocontent,voice,word Compass “spoke”tomewhenmyhusband,Mark,andourdog the Fata Morgana forthefirsttimeoveradecadeagowhenwe Compassisall-encompassing! Caribbean Compass Compass a compass,used—ornotoncruising Caribbean Compass . It’sbeenthemostexcitingtime CC crewdoesanincrediblejobputting forlettingmewriteintheirawe- Compass Compass isessentialreadingforany- isacruisingpublication , amagazinewritten

allowedmethe the Caribbean Compass Compass ” vicarious- has are S C M O COMPASS

I

MICK STEVENS MICK

RON MORGAN RON BILL & BOB THOMAS BOB & BILL MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 now . Zar-Par volumes 3 Cruising Life Marina Caribbean Compass US$8.95 FREE at www.amazon.com! www.marinazarpar.com 200 issues of cruising sailors and armchair dreamers.” cruising sailors and armchair the collection is sure to spark ideas in boththe collection is sure to spark Now available as an eBook at Amazon.com,Now available as an eBook in a very different way, offering new pleasures.in a very different way, offering Boca Chica, Dominican Republic Boca Chica, Read a preview and order the pieces in this collection resonate and sparklethe pieces in this collection Compliments of: Beyond its entertainment — the first piece had me hooked —Beyond its entertainment Cruising Life: The Best Stories from Caribbean CompassCruising Life: The Best Ann Vanderhoof, author of An Embarrassment of Mangoes andAnn Vanderhoof, author

is a collection of 49 outstanding stories selected from more thanis a collection of 49 outstanding CRUISING GUIDES The Spice Necklace, says, “Given a new life beyond the magazine,The Spice Necklace, says, The Best Stories from Caribbean Compass from The Best Stories www.freecruisingguide.com Dominican Republic Cayman Islands Haiti Cuba Jamaica Trinidad ABC Islands Puerto Rico Lesser Antilles in

?” ! Compass Compass by Lynn Kaak has never been afraid to venture into these waters; sometimes Crew, thanks, and keep the good work up, , commonly known as the calabash tree, can be found throughout , commonly known as the calabash tree, can be found is a magazine that island sailors treasure. Happy 20th,

Compass The Benevolent Benevolent The Compass

So dear Twenty years of publishing; by any yardstick measure The News and information for the yachtsman, that is clear, Regatta dates, tales and reports that racers hold so dear, Letters to the editor where sailors vent their spleen, Controversy and challenge: nothing dull or “in between”. At distribution points you may hear yachties make a rumpus, “What do you mean? You must be mad! You gave away my While some boating magazines proudly announce, “We don’t publish poems”, For we appreciate it and to you we raise a cup! The “bashie” is truly a benevolent and giving tree. Recognized as such, the cala- In addition to the utility of the gourd-like fruit, the tree has other uses. The wood In addition to the utility of the gourd-like fruit, the tree Calabash flowers bloom at night, when they are pollinated by nectar-seeking fruit Calabash flowers bloom at night, when they are pollinated The tree can grow to about ten metres (35 feet) in height. It tends to grow in the The tree can grow to about ten metres (35 feet) in height. The young fruit is soft, but upon maturing it develops a hard shell. These shells The young fruit is soft, but upon maturing it develops The most obvious part of the calabash tree is the gourd-like fruits that develop on The most obvious part of the calabash tree is the gourd-like Crescentia cujete As you travel through the Caribbean, every month there’s something special to look As you travel through the Caribbean, every month there’s

LOOK OUT FOR… OUT LOOK ‘Bashie’ (Calabash) ‘Bashie’ — Nan Hatch even doggerel is a hoot, and we’ve had lots of high class acts, too. There must be something about the motion of the ocean that inspires people to express themselves in rhyme. Caribbean Compass bash has been elevated to the status of St. Lucia’s national tree. is strong and springy, making it desirable for a number of purposes. Blocks of the wood may be used in orchid cultivation. The leaves and bark are used for their dis- infectant properties, while the pulp is utilised for respiratory problems and other medicinal purposes. bats, and by noon the next day the flowers will wither. The bell-shaped blooms are bats, and by noon the next day the flowers will wither. light green in colour, and they give off a slight scent. drier areas of the Caribbean, especially in places with full sunshine. They can be drier areas of the Caribbean, especially in places with but grow slowly. The bark cultivated by planting seeds or cuttings that take readily, There are large nodes in is rough, affording an excellent place for orchids to grow. grow in clusters along the the twigs and trunk. The leaves are spoon-shaped and twigs and trunk. have been used for millennia by various cultures as bowls, cups, scoops, storage have been used for millennia by various cultures as in the Caribbean who read- vessels and ornaments. To this day, there are still people Decorations or designs can be ily use “bashie bowls” or “boleys” to enjoy their meals. pattern. They are also often etched into the shell, which will create a two-toned relief of these bowls for sale in painted or varnished. One can find finely made examples island straw markets and craft shops. almost any part of the tree, including the trunk. This green or brown fruit can vary almost any part of the tree, including the trunk. This be round or oval in shape. in size from ten to 30 centimetres in diameter, and may with the untreated pulp being There are seeds and a whitish pulp inside the fruit, There is no specific season poisonous although possessing some medicinal qualities. for the fruit. the tropics. While no one is positive where it originated, although Central America the tropics. While no one is positive where it originated, wherever they grow. The tree looks possible, these trees have certainly been welcome and the fruit is rather attrac- and its components have proven beneficial to humans, tive as an ornament. out for. MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 unhappy eventsoccurringaroundthispartoftheworld. issue ofthe the sea,sailingandmeetingnewfriendsthankstoCaribbeancruising. great pleasureworkingwithfriendlyandpassionatepeoplewho,aboveall,love Island AgentinGuadeloupeandnowSt.Martin/St.Maarten.Ithasbeena my daughter,Karen.Congratulations! quality messagetotheyachtingcommunity.Here’sbeingaroundforanother20! later, itseemslike “Tropical Depression”inthefirsteditionsofChrisDoyle’scruisingguides),20years lication (andSallydoingcartoonssuchas“FishLipsJell-O”,“ObeahCopyright”and Caribbean Compass in Bequia.Wantingtobringpublicitymysponsors,Iapproachedthe paddling betweenthem,proneorkneeling,taggingeachislandasIpassedby. boiled potatoesandminimalgear,Iconnectedall60BritishVirginIslands,hand a tinycruisingyacht. two-foot-wide, fiberglass,hand-driven(nopaddle)paddleboardcouldbecome thing butprofoundgratitudeandlove? course, favoredyouwithanoccasionalby-line?Howcanyourresponsebeany- to youandshowedanewworld,piquedyourdeepongoinginterest,and,of da, paste-upsandbooksmagazines. desk wasacrossfromhim.Bothroomswerecoveredwithpastissues,memoran- dled theincreasingsizeandcomplexityofpublicationwithaplomb.Sally’s pushed together,oneforWilfred,thephotographerandcompositor,whohan- the workspaceforTomwhohustledupadvertising.Inback,twodeskswere desk crowdedwithcomputermonitorsthatservedasbothareceptionareaand rooms onBackStreet.Thedooropenedalongnarrowroomwithanextended relaxed, casualanddiligentatonce.Themonthlywasputtogetherintwosmall an afternoonoutofthehotblueskyandmakenotesinalittlegreenjournal. band, Tom,gavemethefreedomandsolitudeoftheirhousewhereIcouldsit sometimes, cajoledwordsfromadiffidentandbookishwriter.Sheherhus- in thelifeandloreofWindwardIslands.Overyears,sheteasedand, duced metosailing,theWestIndiesandBequia.Oneveryvisit,shegrounded Sally, theeditor,isoneofmyoldestanddearestfriends.Itwasshewhofirstintro- and weshouldcongratulatethemontheiracumenperseverance. The crewofthe and honetheexpertiseittakestobuildproduceasuccessfulpublication. magazine thatcapturesthecommunityitservesandhelpssustainit.Cheers! resource forsailorsandexpatriates.Youhavecreatedausefulentertaining fine admixtureoffeaturesandads,informationopinion,isaninvaluable two decades,andIhopetohavethepleasurecontinue.The ple whohaveevenhelpedmeorganize myresearch. The editorhasneverbeenlessthanencouraging andIhavemetwonderfulpeo- the cultureofmanyislandsinCaribbean. Iamverygratefultothe Caribbean Compass much ofanislandastheycanquickly andeconomicallyaspossible.Butthe country. SothroughmyarticlesIaimtoguide readersonhowtoexperienceas and moneywillalwaysbeimportantfactors influencinghowmuchweexplorea factor andinordertobethriftyIhavehad tolivelikealocalduringmystay.Time has takenmetomanyislandscollectdata.Butofcoursemoneyisalwaysa both aswritersandreaders,isthatwelovetoexplore.Fortunatelymyprofession in amagazineaimedattheyachtingcommunity?Thecommonthreadweshare, I canberegardedasaterrestrialbiologist.Sowhatis“landlubber”doingwriting looked back.Iamanarachnologistandsincespidersarenotfoundintheocean ever sinceIwrotemyfirstarticlefortheirpageseightyearsago,havenever ocean andcouldwriteagoodstory. of deckandluffsail.Evennothavingsailswasacceptable,ifyoufloatedinthe venue, butalsoaliterarylittlepaperthatshowcaseswriterlytalentfromeverytilt Carriacou RacewithHopeMcLawrenceatthehelmofhistraditionalsloop four yearslater,mybestdayiseasilyremembered:winningthe1998Round the demandfortourismhaspollutedfriendshipasmeltingicedilutesrum.Thirty- same andchangeissometimesgood;yetthemega-hotels,mega-yachts,GPS, ers, losersandcruiserstheyhavecontributedtomywriting.Nothingremainsthe income. DuringtheinterveningyearsIhavemetmanyCaribbeancharacters,booz- healthy thrivinggroupofislandsthatwelcomedvisitorsforfriendship,notonly Caribbean islands,fromGrenadatoSaba,onapronepaddleboard. exploits asIeventuallybecamethefirsttoconnectWindwardandLeeward I havebeengratefultoreadandwriteforthe Stéphane Legendre,St.Martin Thanks forthefantasticjobyouaredoing! The sailors’communityoftheCaribbeanhasagoaleverymonth:getlatest I havebeenwith Alan Hooper(withShirleyandKaren)Grenada Being anIslandAgentprovedtobesuchagreatjobIcouldonlypassiton Remembering thetimeswhenitwasTomandSally’sdreamtohavetheirownpub- I soonlearnedfromitsexactingeditorthat The nextyearIpaddledtheGrenadinesfromSt.VincenttoGrenada,stopping To provethispoint,guidedbyjustacompassandhand-heldGPS,carryingwater, In 1998,ImovedtoTortolaandshortlythereafterdecidedthatmy14-foot-long, Paul TylerRochester,NY,USA In theendwhatcanyousayaboutsuchbenignpeoplewhoopenedtheirlives Every dayIspentinBequiamademywaytothe My relationshipwiththe Twenty years,it’salongtime,enoughtomasterthefinedetails,sharpenskills Richard DeyNeedhamHeights,Massachusetts,USA Jo-Anne N.Sewlal,Ph.D.,Trinidad&Tobago www.caribbeanspiders.com I donotrememberexactlyhowstumbledacrossthe Ralph Trout,Trinidad Compass So Iwroteacoupleofstoriesforthe I came to the Caribbean in 1980, definitely ten years too late. But I still witnessed a I cametotheCaribbeanin1980,definitelytenyearstoolate.Butstillwitnesseda Susan ChaplinTortola,BritishVirginislands Thanks foryoursupport,andgivingmeavoiceintheCaribbean. CC: FROMAGENTSTOARACHNOLOGISTS permitseachtothrowintheirtwocents,andthatisworthamillion. Compass Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass . tohearthelatestcruisingnews,andhappyalso acts notonlyasaguideforexplorersbut italsodocuments Compass beganbeforethepublicationofmonthly. shouldbeproudoftheiraccomplishments hasalwaysbeenaround,spreadingitshigh- Compass formorethan12yearsnow,firstasan Compass andreaderseagerlyfollowedmy Caribbean Compass Compass isnotjustanadvertising Caribbean Compass office.Itwas Compass overthepast Compass withits Imagine but . . Sanctuary. was seenin2007,2009and2013theStellwagenBankNationalMarine in theBritishVirginIslands—andit’samatch!It’sofwhalecalled“Face-Off”who been addedtotheCatalogue.TheveryfirstCARIBTailflukephotoof2015wastaken CARIB Tails,inlessthanayearfivenewtailflukephotosofindividualwhaleshave fluke photoshadbeentaken.Thankstosailorsnowcontributingtheir grounds intheWiderCaribbeanRegion. humpback whalesbetweentheirNorthAtlanticfeedinggroundsandbreeding mine manyaspectsoftheirbiology,ecology,andbehavior. has beenwidelyusedonhumpbackwhalepopulationsaroundtheworldtodeter- by researchersinthe1970s.Sincethattime,techniqueof photographs oftheirtailflukepigmentationandscarringpatternswasfirstrealized other regionsofthebody.Theabilitytorecognizeindividualhumpbackwhalesfrom pigmentation patternsandscarringmarksontheundersideoftheirtailflukes North AtlanticOceanandtheCaribbeanSeawithoutapassport. edging nosovereigntybuttheirown—travelingthroughinternationalwatersofthe singing, romancing—intheCaribbean.Theyareinternationalcitizensacknowl- base justtalliedits8,005thindividual! Allied Whale’sNorthAtlanticHumpbackWhaleCatalogue,whosehumpbackdata- the StellwagenBankNationalMarineSanctuaryinUSGulfofMaine. Guadeloupe. “Footprints”wasalsophotographedin2008onthefeedinggrounds ter of2011inthebreedinggroundsAgoa’sMarineMammalSanctuaryoff Who’s ‘Footprints’? Which 2008flukephotographonnextpage matches“Footprints’”2011photoabove? Send yourwhaletailphotostowww.caribtails.orgbepartofthisproject. Until recently,overthepast30or35yearsinEasternCaribbeanonly60tail CARIB Tailsisenlistingcruisersandotherboaterstohelptrackthemovementsof Your PhotosCanProvideSAFEPASSAGEforHumpbacks Humpback whales( Who’s WHO? Albeit notbyjetplaneorsailingvessel,humpbackwhalesarearriving—cavorting, What’s theBuzz—They’veARRIVED! This “match”betweenfeedingandbreedinggroundswasrecentlydiscoveredby What’s theFuss? “Footprints” is PROUDLY SPONSOREDBYCONSERVATION: Find theMatch! Fluke Line-Up: SALTY’S BEATBYNATHALIEWARD

a humpbackwhalewhosetailflukeswerephotographedinthewin- Megaptera novaeangliae Activities ) arecharacterizedbyvariablenatural nautical miles}. {2,999 kilometersor1,620 ly 1,864milesoneway round trip,or approximately 3,728miles round-trip? Antilles? Howmanymiles Sanctuary intheFrench to Agoa’sMarineMammal Stellwagen BankSanctuary migration fromUS “Footprints” travelonthe A. “Footprints”traveled Q. Howmanymilesdid Migration Dots Connect the —Continued onnextpage photo-identification

approximate- MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39

Caribbean Compass Continued from previous page Continued from Answer on page 35 Anniversary note: Dr. Nathalie Ward has been contributing to since 1996, when she created our very first marine environmental column, “Sea since 1996, when she created our very first marine environmental column, “Sea Soup”. She is a marine biologist, conservation educator and marine mammal policy consultant. She is the Founder and former Director of the Eastern Caribbean Cetacean Network (ECCN) and has conducted research on humpback whales in the Caribbean since 1978. She is the Sister Sanctuary Program Director for the United States’ Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary Program and the marine policy consultant for United Nations Caribbean Environment Programme. Dr. Ward has developed marine protected areas educational materials and programs in the Eastern Caribbean since 1984. She has authored numerous scientific publications and marine mammal field guides as well as children’s books on whales, dolphins, sharks and coral reefs. She resides in Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines and Woods Hole, Massachusetts. — MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 and theMoonareasfollows. junction datesbetweenthecelestialobjects Moon willprovideareferenceobject.Thecon- identify afewplanetsorstarsbecausethe with theSunonApril9thand10th. this period.Mercurywillbeinnearalignment Aquarius andresidesinPiscesthroughout degrees northlatitude.TheSunhasleft move fromtwodegreessouthlatitudetoten brightest starinthesky. Leo. Denebola,“tailofthelion”,is62nd planet. Regulusisthe“heartofLion”in star inoursky.Polluxalsohasanorbiting means “muchwine”andisthe17thbrightest tion Geminiandmarkstheimmortaltwin.It brighter oftwobrightstarsintheconstella- Pollux, RegulusandDenebola.Polluxisthe now risinghigherinthenightsky.Theyare 1 showsthreemorenavigationalstarsthatare stars arebeginningtosetinthewest.Figure sky). Thepreviouslymentionednavigational toward theecliptic(thepathofSunin Minor, mentionedinthelastissue,andmove the navigationalstarsofCanisMajorand omy intheireverydaylives. civilizations placedgreatimportanceonastron- es andastronomicalobservations.Theancient courts wereusedforballgames,rituals,danc- astronomical objectsandhumanfigures.The courts haveengravingsthatresembleboth nomical events.Therocksoutliningtheball courts werealignedaccordingtospecificastro- of theland.Itwasdeterminedthattheseball by thefuturecivilizationsclaimingownership throughout theislandswerelikelydestroyed Cuba andPuertoRico.Theotherballcourts Who knows?Tainoballcourtswerefoundin Arawak DiamondbacksandtheTainoBonitos? de Caguana.Wasthereabiggamebetweenthe Ball CourtsortheParqueCeremonialIndigena There theyconstructedtheCaguanaCeremonial Caribbean andSouthAmerica.TheTainosettledmanyislandsincludingPuertoRico. and Caribpeople.Thesegroupsmigratedhadsettlementsthroughoutthe land forSpain,theCaribbeanislandswerepopulatedbyCiboney,Arawak,Taino opening-day lossinarowfortheCubs? and theChicagoCubsplaySt.LouisCardinals.Willthisgamebefifth March toMid-April During thisperioditwillbealittleeasierto The Sun’snoonpositionoverthisperiodwill This month,asyouviewthenightsky,leave Where amIgoingwiththis?LongbeforeColumbus“discovered”andclaimedthe Play ball!AndIdon’tmeanAmericanbaseball,althoughopeningdayisApril5th The SkyfromMid- by JimUlik

FIGURE 1 THE CARIBBEANSKY:FREESHOWNIGHTLY! 2100 hours stars onMarch18that tions ofthreenavigational way toLeoandtheloca- The BigDippermarksthe 1814 andjustbeforebothobjectssetat1944. of theMoonbutitwillpassinfront(occult)Mars.Lookforthattohappenafter south ofGrenadayoumayseeMarsdisappear.Youcanonlyabouttwopercent —Continuedonnextpage degrees southoftheMoon separation. that closepointat0255hours. and nearly100-percentilluminated. the MoonandabrightVenusthatissituatednorthward.Marslocatedjustbelow • March22nd–Inthewesternsky • March21st–MarsispositionedlessthanonedegreefromtheMoon.Ifyouare • March18th–MercurywillbefivedegreessouthoftheMoon • April8th–ThelastlunarconjunctionthisperiodiswhenSaturnappearstwo • April4th–SpicatakesitsplacethreedegreessouthoftheMoon • March31st–NowReguluswillbefourdegreesnorthoftheMoon • March30th–ItisJupiter’sturntoappearnorthoftheMoonwithfivedegrees • March25th-AldebaranislessthanonedegreesouthoftheMoon.Itwillreach

tonight

you willbeabletosee

eight percentof MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41

FIGURE2 FIGURE 3 Petite Martinique 16-18 feet of water alongside Suitable for Large Power Yachts Unobstructed dock in calm water Cheapest prices in the Grenadines The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for: Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE Caption if the clouds The majority of the eclipse that you would see at 0553 weren’t on the horizon Jupiter and the Beehive Cluster at 2000 hours was succeeded as our “star writer” by Jeannie Kuich in 2002. Scott Welty took over Kuich in 2002. Scott as our “star writer” by Jeannie was succeeded to Jim Ulik in turned the big telescope over in 2009, and he as our chief stargazer us in touch with the heavens. Thanks to you all for keeping December 2013.

Europa Europa

A S I the “Epitome of LS LLS II U NEW SAILS & AWNINGS Caribbean Compass’s U/V COVERS UPHOLSTERY SAIL REPAIRS TRAMPOLINES & FOAM LUFFS REPRESENTATIVE STACKPACKS & DINGHY COVERS AA BIMINI, DODGERS Q (evenings) LAZY JACK SYSTEMS Services provided: SS E

B S

E •

N S I (northern side of Admiralty Bay) A D The American Practical Navigator, The American Practical Navigator, V AADINES Moon as it rises this morning at 0523. The Moon is up this morning at 0523. The Moon as it rises

N NN 1st E A

R C

G Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 GRE & CANVAS • BEQUIA && CANVAS e-mail: [email protected] VHF Ch16/68 . That spacecraft and probe will be the first phase to see if there is life under if there is life under . That spacecraft and probe will be the first phase to see Continued from previous page Continued from Located opposite G.Y.E. Thursday, March 19th Thursday, March sliver of the You can see a The rest of the celestial events during this period are below. celestial events during this The rest of the 17th Tuesday, March but know that to use your imagination, at 0514. You will have Mercury rises Thursday, March 26th a few of the navigational stars, I thought I would Because I have written about Wednesday, April The March or Vernal equinox occurs at 1844 hours. This is also the first day of occurs at 1844 hours. This is also the first day The March or Vernal equinox Friday, March 20th Friday, March at 0546. There is also a solar eclipse moment occurs at 0536. The New Moon Jim Ulik is a photographer and cruiser currently based in Grenada. Jim Ulik is a photographer and cruiser currently based stars. Anniversary note: Sailors have always looked to the * All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) unless otherwise noted. The * All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) In The News: part of Europe’s Galileo There will be two more satellites launched to become Sunday, April 12th the Seven Sisters (Pleiades). Look in the west around 1900. Venus will be visiting celebration of humanity’s Yuri’s Night - World Space Party. Yuri’s Night is a global Wednesday, April 8th overhead find Jupiter At 2000 hours, Venus will be setting in the west. Directly Ozma. That was the first April 8th is also the 55th Anniversary (1960) of Project The Moon is at its furthest orbital point from Earth today. The Moon is at its furthest Saturday, April 4th the lunar eclipse this morning. The Moon is just min- We are going to miss part of Neptune is positioned right next to Mercury. Neptune is positioned — mention that Nathaniel Bowditch was born on March 26th, 1773 (he died on March was born on March 26th, 1773 (he died on March mention that Nathaniel Bowditch 16th, 1838). Bowditch wrote spring. The Sun is shining directly on the equator. “Equinox” originates from Latin directly on the equator. “Equinox” originates from Latin spring. The Sun is shining was will be nearly equal amounts of day and night. It and means “equal night”: there Caguana Ceremonial Ball Courts were aligned determined that the aforementioned events. with the solstice and equinox for- in 1802. This volume has extensive tables, Navigation” that was first published that apply to navigation, including celestial. mulae and other information Unfortunately the eclipse will only be viewable just before the Moon rises in the will only be viewable just before the Moon rises in Unfortunately the eclipse Caribbean. Moonrise is at 0614. all day and is at its closest point to Earth (1538 AST) so watch those tides. (1538 AST) so watch those at its closest point to Earth all day and is times are based on the viewing position in Grenada and may vary by only a few min- times are based on the viewing position in Grenada and utes in different Caribbean locations. Gibb, appeared in 1999. Jane first column about the night sky, written by the late Jane navigation constellation. The planned launch date is March 28th. When all satellites navigation constellation. The planned launch date is March world will be in sight of a (30 are planned) are in orbit, anyone anywhere in the eight satellites will always be minimum of four satellites. From most locations, six to visible. Now you can plan your trip to the Polar Regions. past, present, and future in space. Yuri’s Night parties and events are held around past, present, and future in space. Yuri’s Night parties 1961, the day of cosmonaut the world every April in commemoration of April 12th, launch of NASA’s Space Yuri Gagarin’s first manned spaceflight and the inaugural Shuttle on April 12th, 1981. positioned in Cancer two degrees away from the Beehive Cluster. The cluster will Cluster. The cluster will positioned in Cancer two degrees away from the Beehive and you may see some of be slightly west of Jupiter. Grab a pair of binoculars Europa harbors an ocean Jupiter’s moons: Europa will be right next to Jupiter. is planning for the twice the size of all Earth’s oceans combined. NASA and searching space. What if Radio SETI by Frank Drake. SETI is still in business for communication, mak- there is life on other planets? Are aliens using fiber optics mean to us if there isn’t life ing the signals harder for us to detect? What does it out there? utes from being full when you look west at 0503. The Earth’s shadow will just begin look west at 0503. The Earth’s shadow will just begin utes from being full when you the The maximum part of the eclipse occurs at 0556 as to touch the Moon’s face. Either look at Figure 2 or find a high vantage point over- Moon touches the horizon. in the morning, more power looking the water. If you can climb the mast that early to you. Clipper its oceans of water. MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 tors, everysinglebodythereis. Caribbean Compass island, anotheroffice,generation. but alsoaninlet.For20yearsithasletintheviewfromanothercockpit, paper, too!) when available.Butanewspaperissuchcalmingmedium.(Printedonnice radio nets,andawider-rangingaudience.Theinternet?Well,ithasitsuses, lation intheeloquenceofvoicesfromfleet. curiosity aboutwhat’shappeningjustoverthehorizon.Andthere’salwaysstimu- hot offthepressoralittlebatteredafteritstenthpassing-around.There’salways the pulseofregion. in theislands.I’dreadeachissuecovertocover,andfeelasifIhadmyfingeron Compass Turns outIshouldn’thaveworried. vous about‘goingpublic’soIhidbehindthetitleof“TheCaribbeanBookworm”. two decadesago. said tomeasthe ple aboutthem.Areyoureadytostart?”That’sbasicallywhateditorSallyErdle Memoirs ofJ.LintonRigg, book reviewofmine.(Ifshe’sdoneitagain,getacopy the editingisexcellent,althoughSallyrecentlycutoutfinalparagraphofa hope toseeitheldatMaranne’sIceCreamthisyear. most ofallIhaveenjoyedtheCompassWriters’brunches.Itismyaimandfervent and fortuneassociatedwithbeinga Caribbean livesoninyourmonthlyefforts. back ifheeverretires. still ownsaportionoftheequipmentmyBequiaBluesBand,buthecancome had togiveuphislifeasmyrock‘nrollco-starinthebandPhoenix.Asaresult,he put outanonlineeditioneverymonth,andit’scausedhimsomuchgriefthathe monthly layoutpuzzlemanyyearsago,hehasseenhisworkdoublebyhavingto Street andChrisDoyle. reviews I’vecontributedovertheyearsputmeabout200articlesbehindDon sailors fromPuertoRicotoPanama,CulebraColombia.Themorethan70book rag toaninternationalpowerhouse,servingtheloosebutveryrealcommunityof ple oflikeilkcanbeonthesamepage.Thanks, Compass had toweather,butthankfully tors!” Again,thanksforallthedefttouches thathaveimprovedmywork. ference: itcompletedthestory.Remember myresponse?Itwas,“Ibelieveinedi- “Benny” withoutlettingmeknowbeforehand. Thatlastsentencemadeallthedif- there wereprofuseapologiesfortagging onthelastsentencetomyshortstory enough totheCaribbeanwerefittinglymentionedwarrantpublication.And, some oftheworld’sextremesurfers,hadquiterewritesuntilwatersnear no go.Similarly,myreviewof submitted myreviewof personality profiles;mythreeorfourrecipes,andmostrecentlybookreviews. St Luciaforaboutfourorfiveyears;myshortfiction,“Benny”;destinationpieces; have indeedenjoyedputtingintowordsmycoverageoftheARCwhenIlivedin speak aboutwriting.Istartedcontributingto am verygratefulto possible. Thankyouforallowingmetoputinmytwocents,andpublishingit.I happily alongfrompublicationtopublication. I haveenjoyedreadingthe Ann Westergard, So onthis,theBigTwo-Oh,I’dliketosaythankseveryonewhohasmade For me,the A newspaperhasamoreuniversalreachandlongerlifethanthemorning There’s alwaysthatlittlefrissonofdelightwhenanewissueisspotted,whether Instead Ibecameamemberofcommunity,thegreatconglomeration Thus Ibecameapublishedwriterofmaterialhadchosenformyself.wasner- “You oncesaidthat,inanidealworld,youwouldjustreadbooksandtellpeo- All kiddingaside,thearticlesandcartoonshaveimprovedoveryears, Congratulations on Bob Berlinghof,Bequia Thank you, I mustalsomentionWilfred.Thoughhecameonboard We haveseenthe It’s wonderfultoknowthatdespitethedividedworldweliveinthesedays,peo- As Iseeit,thoughwehavenevermetandthatmuchwaterseparatesusall, I amsurethereweremanystormsduring thelasttwodecadesthatyouhave I havealwaysfoundSallyafirmeditorandloyaltotheCaribbean,e.g.,when Since Icannotspeakaboutsailing—absolutelynoexperiencecanonly J. Wynner,Trinidad May theblessingsbe,andmay readers,unitedbyourfondnessforthesinglebestinformationnetwork isonelarge,happyfamilyofwritersandreaders. Compass Compass Caribbean Compass S/Y Gallivant Compass Compass possible,readers,writers,photographers,advertisers,distribu- Compass’s crew,andkeeponkeepin’on,theideaofOneLove/One hasnotjustbeenanoutletforoccasionalbookreviews, Life ofPi CC: BOOKWORMS by ArtRoss.) Bequia schooner Westergard (right)witheditorSallyErdleaboardthe Book reviewersBobBerlinghof(left)andAnn forgivingmeachancetoappearinprint. Caribbean Compass gofromblackandwhitetocolor,asmalllocal The Wave Compass 20thAnniversary. , whichisastorysetinthePacificOcean,itwas Compass Compass movedfromconcepttoreality,lothese , SusanCasey’snon-fictionbookabout hassailedrightonthroughthemall. remainalwaysafloat,andnavigate Compass Friendship Rose. writer(bookreviews,mainly),but Compass for 20years,enjoyedthefame about15yearsago,andI Compass Crew,formakingthis Sixty YearsofSport,The Dateunknown tosolvethe 336 pages.ISBN:0-345-45536-3. asVillain Protagonist BOOK REVIEWBYJ.WYNNER of Shakespeare’s Prospero thanhisdaughter.Themaincharacter,Prospero,springsfromtheplatform while Iwaswritingthisnovel,cannottell.” She goesontosay,“WhatdifferenceitwouldhavemadehadIreadGreenblatt’sbook father-daughter relationshipandaresodeeplyanxiousaboutincestuousdesires.” later toemergeonChacachacare.In a perfecthideout.” still remained,buthewasold,hardlylikely toaskdisturbingquestions.Itwouldbe returned toTrinidad.Therewasadoctor there,takingcareofthefewpatientswho ny, hesaid,butitwasvirtuallyabandoned. Mostoftheleperswerecuredandhad Chacachacare, alittleislandoffthenorthwest coastofTrinidad.Itwasalepercolo- their parents,too.” would havetosignoverhisbankaccounthim.Hishouseandinheritancefrom medicine, andPauladvisedhimtogoaway.“Itwouldcostmoney,lotsofmoney. He who toldhimthataninquestwouldleadtoothershadnotbeencuredby his administering hismedicine,whichhadworkedonrats.Terrified,hewenttoPaul ted totheward.Shewasagovernmentminister’swife.diedwithinhoursofPeter Paul toldhim. and threemonths’salarygambling:“Keepitupyouwillkillsomeoneoneday,” again… coldanddistant”.HerefusedtolendPaulmoneyafterhelosthissavings years afterthebirthoftheirdaughter,hiswifedied,Peterbecame“hisold self women withfeelingsanddesires.” mass ofcells,tissue,bloodandbones,notpeople.Notliving,breathingmen and upon, madethemuneasy.Hispatientswerenothumantohim.Tohim,they a examination time,theystucktohim…butitwaswithPaulwentthepub.” popular one.TheyconsultedPeterwhentheywerefacedwithadifficultproblem. At brain, thesmarterofBidweddermen.ButstudentslovedPaul.Hewas the er who“evenwhenhewasridiculingPeter,envyeatinghimup.” loved. Abrotherwhohadclungtohimlikeivybutonlysuckdry”—abroth- bounds andconfidenceinabrotherwho,nexttohisdaughter,ofalltheworldhe with similardesires. his lastplays— years youngerthanhe:hisdaughterSusanna.Itcannotbeanaccidentthatthreeof to hiswork.Attheendofbook,hemakesanalarmingobservation: that shereadStephenGreenblatt’s United States,saysinherauthor’snotethatitwasn’tuntilshecompletednovel Carlos ofadespicablecrime. discovers aforbiddenfriendshipdevelopingbetweenCarlosandVirginia,heaccuses than asavage.Nonetheless,heschoolsCarlosalongsidehisdaughter.WhenPeter by Carlos,theyoungnativeboywhosehomePetersteals.HethinksCarlosnobetter who laterchangedhisnametoPeterGardner,andstillwasrenamedProspero incestuous, andinshortwhatyou’dcallasicko!HeisEnglish,bornPeterBidwedder, race andclassplayaleadingpart. by itsTrinidadianauthor,ElizabethNunez,usinglotsofCaribbeanspiceinwhich on man’sinner,stormyfuries,inwhich the maincharacterbecomestempest. What abook! Prospero’s Daughter And so,withthisbackground,Nunezcreates thegenesisforProsperothatwas “Paul saidheknewsomeonewithconnections whocouldarrangeforhimtogo And itcametopass.Peterwasaroundwhenanimportant,richwomanadmit- His familyfoundmarriagemadePetermorehumanforawhile,butwhen,three “Peter’s ardor,hisfocus,single-mindednessoncuringeveryillnesshecame “In medicalschool,itwasobviousthattheprofessorsadmiredPeter.He In hertale,Prosperohasabrother,Paul,whoisalsodoctor.“Histrust “The womanwhomostintenselyappealedtoShakespeareinhislifewastwenty Nunez, whoisadistinguishedProfessorofEnglishatMedgarEversCollegeinthe The Tempest. Prospero’s Daughter Pericles byElizabethNunez.BallantineBooks,©2006.Paperback, , The Winter’sTale Somberinitstelling,thestorygetsquiteawork-over Will intheWorld Prospero’s Daughter . Thestory,however,hasmoretodowith

, and Just thesame,Nunez’sProsperodealt liar, aracist,martinet,he’s Trinidadian author). setting ofyetanothernovelbya leper colony,Chacachacare(the laboratory ontheformerisland a scientistworkinginhisgarden the evilgenius.Heseeshimselfas envisions himself.Heiseverybit very farremovedfromhowhe those aroundhim.Heishowever, himself asthesuperiorbeingto wonderful tobeemulated.Hesees learning, andallthatisnoble a modelofgoodupbringingand encounter, holdinghimselfupas unlikable protagonistsyou’dever This Prosperoisoneofthemost resses togratifyhiscarnaldesires. Ariana, astheunwillingtempt- ter, Virginia,andhishelper, on therun. a doctorbyprofession— Shakespeare’s. Shecastshimas time worldsapartfrom Prospero inhabitsaplaceand alive onthepages.Nunez’s nist whoisalsothevillain,come characters, includingtheprotago- shines. Hersettingglistens. independence, Nunez’swriting away fromcolonialismtowards time whenTrinidadwasmoving land duringtheSixties,at The Tempest Prosperoisvile:he’sathief, Nunez usesProspero’sdaugh- Placing thetaleinhernative , whichlinksShakespeare’slife , Nunezconcentratesmore —centeredonthe sans

MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 TAILS.org CARIB EST since 1976 www. itical for conservation efforts. hotographs of humpback whales of humpback hotographs There is nothing general about Basil's Great General Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the World’s Ten Ten Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the World’s Imagine decorating your home with antiques from Bali and India. Basil’s Bar : Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for island joy. perfect for island joy. as bright as the sea and as light as air... : Fabrics in Helping? Go to WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD! Located in Kingstown in an 18th century building named Cobblestone. Air

www.basilsbar.com [email protected] www.basilsbar.com Collection of beautiful bamboo furniture, contemporary pieces from Asia and Visit Basil’s in Mustique or St. Vincent Basil’s in Mustique Visit Mustique

beyond, and more. Call (784) 456-2602. BASIL’S BAR: BASIL’S conditioned, you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming and the meals are some of the best on the island. Now offering full catering services. Call (784) 457-2713. BASIL’S: AT Visitors to Mustique are invited to: to Mustique Visitors BAR AND RESTAURANT: BASIL’S renovated, the new face Recently Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek and today lives up to that tradition. lobster in season, steaks andof Basil’s Bar in Mustique is all that and more: offering fresh seafood, enjoy sunset cocktails and catchthe best beefburger in the Caribbean. Equipped with WIFI, you can up on the web. Breakfast service begins at 8:00am. Lunch 11:00am - 6pm, and Dinner 7:30 until Night Jump Up and late. Come to Basil’s for cocktails anytime and plan to attend the Wednesday in the Caribbean. Next year’s Mustique Blues BBQ. Basil’s Bar is home of the only Blues Festival 3, 2016. Call (784) 488-8350 or VHF 68. place from January 20 - February takes Festival BOUTIQUE BASIL’S to women, men and children, plus lots of T-shirts For Elegant island evening and playful day wear. silver and gemstone jewelry. home. Basil’s Boutique also offers take STORE: GENERAL GREAT BASIL’S wines, cheese from Europe, gourmet jams and sauces. French with fine Store. Bountifully stocked foods in Paradise. Imported cigars and an unusual collection of books not to be missed. Fine Call (784) 488-8407. FOREVER: ACROSS has a magnificent collection of furniture from Asia and beyond, contemporary Across Forever pieces, home furnishings, fabulous lighting accessories and more. Shipping is easily and efficiently arranged. Call (784) 488-8407. are invited to: to St Vincent Visitors our contributions of tail flukeour contributions p NTERESTED rom the Caribbean region cr are rom the Caribbean HELP TRACKMIGRATION HUMPBACKHELP WHALE Y f I . You may know them Tide’s Table regularly since 2008. Science Recently I have been poring over the excel- Recently I have been poring easily prepared Eggs are readily available, BY ROSS MAVIS Eggsacting Eggsacting lent book on food chemistry by Harold McGee.lent book on food chemistry to food, itsHe is no slouch when it comes cooking. chemistry, preservation and Compass since the beginning. In addition to innumerable excellent Caribbean Compass Delicious! Anniversary note: A well-fed crew is a happy crew, and recipes have been a popular Eggs in Kilts That’s what I called this recipe in my cookbook Boil and peel eggs to hard stage and cool. When cool, load them into a Mason jar. Here are some of my favorite egg recipes that are great for an evening appetizer or Here are some of my favorite egg recipes that are great Pickled Eggs 1 dozen medium or small eggs (you can use large if you wish) Enough water to boil them in 1 1/2 Cups white or cider vinegar 1 1/2 Cups water 1 Tablespoon pickling spice 1 teaspoon salt You can add pickled beet juice or juice from a bottle of dill pickles if you wish. The When wanting hardboiled eggs, place them in a pot of cold water over high heat. When wanting hardboiled eggs, place them in a pot of Let eggs cool and then slice either cross ways or lengthwise before serving. A dollop Another way to enjoy eggs is to pickle them. Nothing is quite as tasty as a pickled Another way to enjoy eggs is to pickle them. Nothing 6 eggs, boiled and peeled 2 eggs, beaten 1 1/2 pounds spicy sausage meat 1/4 Cup finely chopped fresh parsley leaves 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon sea salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/3 Cup flour (for dusting) 1 Cup breadcrumbs vegetable oil (for frying) Boil six eggs to hard stage, chill Traditional scrambled eggs and various levels of fried eggs grace many breakfast Traditional scrambled eggs and various levels of fried Although the threat of salmonella poisoning from uncooked or improperly cooked Although the threat of salmonella poisoning from uncooked Eggs truly are an easy item for breakfast, lunch, supper or a snack. Eggs truly are an easy item for breakfast, lunch, supper the classic way many of us Boiled and served with toast fingers, butter and salt is There are a variety of egg containers available that are suitable for boats, and it’s available that are suitable for boats, and it’s There are a variety of egg containers If you are not sure about the freshness of an egg and whether it is fit for consump- If you are not sure about the A few simple precautions when buying eggs can also help in their longevity. Buy buying eggs can also help in their longevity. Buy A few simple precautions when individual submissions, we’ve enjoyed boat-friendly Caribbean recipe columns by Owen Belmar, Mary Heckrotte, Captain Katie, Fenella Hall, Captain Phil and Shirley Hall. Ross Mavis has been writing for part of Boil water, vinegar, pickling spice and salt until mixture is clear. At this point you can add herbs or other spices of your choosing. Pour mixture over eggs in jar and let cool. Close jar and let them sit or pickle for a couple of days before serving. for adding to a salad course. beet juice will color the eggs pink. Using your own pickle mixture allows you to add herbs or spices of your choice. When the water comes to a rolling boil, turn off the heat and let eggs and water sit When the water comes to a rolling boil, turn off the heat crack shells to ease peeling. for 15 or 20 minutes. Plunge eggs into cold water and of spicy mustard or sweet chili sauce is an excellent condiment to add. egg when having a cold beer. Pickled eggs will keep in a cool or refrigerated spot for egg when having a cold beer. Pickled eggs will keep in a couple of weeks or more. Perfect snacks for underway! and then peel. Meanwhile beat remaining two raw eggs in a small bowl and set aside. In another small bowl, mix sausage, parsley, garlic powder, salt and pepper. Divide meat into six equal portions and flatten each into a patty shape. Take boiled eggs and roll them in flour to lightly coat them. Place a sausage patty around each egg, forming it into a ball with your hands. Pat firmly to completely encase egg inside meatball. Lightly dust meat-covered eggs with flour and then roll in beaten egg. Remove and roll in breadcrumbs. Pat again with your hands before carefully placing each ball into a pan with about one inch of hot oil. Roll eggs in pan until nicely browned. Remove and place on a baking tray to finish if you wish at 350°F. (I only do this step if I am not happy with the egg browning nicely all over). and lunch plates, accompanied by various meats and vegetables. and lunch plates, accompanied by various meats and any name. more commonly as Scotch Eggs — they’re delicious by eggs is quite low, it still exists. For that reason, poached eggs with runny yolks eggs is quite low, it still exists. For that reason, poached eggs sit in this hot water for should be finished in a pan of 65°C water. Let soft-yolk drop below 63°C. an additional 15 minutes, being sure not to let the water were introduced to eggs. My mum called the toast fingers “soldiers” and we were were introduced to eggs. My mum called the toast fingers encouraged to dive the soldiers into the runny yolks. worth taking one ashore with you when shopping on small islands where eggs might worth taking one ashore with you when shopping on small should be good for sev- be sold in plastic bags. Eggs bought fresh and kept properly eral weeks. tion, try this simple test. Place unbroken eggs into a pot of cold water. The eggs that unbroken eggs into a pot of cold water. The eggs that tion, try this simple test. Place and any that float should be discarded. are fresh will sink to the bottom the freshest eggs available, previously unrefrigerated if possible. Failing that, pur- the freshest eggs available, a refrigerated case at the supermarket and keep them chase eggs that are kept in do not store them at room temperature. cold; once eggs have been refrigerated, in many ways, and should be in every boater’s food supply. Keeping them fresh is be in every boater’s food supply. Keeping them fresh in many ways, and should the even without refrigeration. Storing eggs well below important but not difficult, egg provide a cooler environment conducive to proper waterline in your galley will “egg quality deteriorates as much in a day at room preservation. According to McGee, under refrigeration”. temperature as in four days MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 YAMAHA GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, McIntyre Bros.Ltd. JONAS BROWNE&HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitallandalotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up A MostExtraordinaryBoat TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL Month’s Taking RefugeinVieques email: [email protected] PHONE: (473)4443944/1555 Convenient Curaçao Outboard Engines2HP-250HP Read inNext Duty-Free EnginesforYachts FAX: (473)4442899 Parts -RepairsService … andmuchmore! Compass Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: : Hi, S/V PrivateDancer Mitch Witt,formerBarbarossaWarrior creating someofthebestmemoriesmylife. TTSA) in1997.IplayedBarbarossa’97and’98, Trinidad &TobagoYachtingAssociation(TTYA,now of FFORUM RREADERS' BEST MEMORIESOFMYLIFE It wastakenduringtheCarnivalFunRaceat Thought you’dliketoseethis—fromthefrontcover Compass Compass O E R A , IthinkitwasFebruaryorMarch1998. U D Readers, M E (nowinGrenada) R S '

vented usfromenteringthemarina. asked metolookatit.(Asusual,Iowedhermoney.) fix itup,andforhowmuch?Bevdidn’tknow,soshe with it:sellit?hiresomeonetosailitbackEngland? and anagedcouplewhowantedtoknowwhatdo and captain,shehadanoldleakingyawlinaslip, Currently sailingintheGrenadines Don Street have seenthereefthathehit. Ocean, whichhereportedlyhadonboard,would gator hadLOOKEDatageneralchartoftheIndian that thereefisnoted.Similarlyif chart coveringthesameareatheywouldhaveseen if thenavigatorshadmerelyLOOKEDatpaper electronic chartbecausetheyhadzoomedouttoofar, the reefinPacificthatdidnotshowupontheir and forthinourZodiac,since Creek forBordenandhisfriends,whomweferriedback a fewdinnerpartiesonboard him, andsmuggleitbackintoSt.Lucia.Wealsohosted to Martiniquebuycasesofwine,cognacandrumfor was aneccentrichost,and a houseonthesaddlebetweenfamousPitons.He Stevenson, AdlaiStevenson’syoungerbrother,whohad me; itwasherdivorcedhusband’sname! Pringle —norelationtome,shehastenedassure pened, themanagerofVigieCreekMarinawasBeverly with my60-footEnglishcutter, with theirlittleyawl,norhercurrentcondition. nineties, backinEngland,andhadnoideawhattodo were intheirlateseventies;nowthey in theearly1960sbyherEnglishownerswhenthey of Burmeseteak,andhadbeensailedtotheCaribbean built in1898awell-knownyardEngland,allout going 24hoursadaytokeepherafloat.Shehadbeen Creek MarinainSt.Lucia1972,withthepumps Dear before LIAT intheBarbadosairporttransitlounge48hours Dear the Februaryissueof Dear Françoise Cremet Best regards, became adumpingground! tles, etcetera. streets arelitteredwithplasticbags,Styrofoam,bot- bottom oftheIndianRiverisadisgrace,and question ofwasteshouldbeseriouslyaddressed:the years andhavealwaysenjoyedit.Howeverwefeelthe January 2015issue,page21,dealingwithDominica. DIESEL OUTFITTERS So ‘Bev’Pringlesawmeasaknowledgeablesailor But we chartered out of there, in particular for Borden But wecharteredoutofthere,inparticularforBorden I hadsailedintoVigieCreekafewmonthsearlier She wasalovelylittleEnglishyawl,inslipVigie MY FIRSTSURVEY By theway,Iwrotethatarticlewhilestrandedby KEEP DOMINICACLEAN! Regarding myarticleonRastervsVectorchartsin THE REEFSSHOWEDONPAPER It wouldbeapityifthisbeautiful“natureisland” We havebeencruisingDominicaforthepastfour I’m writingaboutthearticlebyMiraNenchevain AUTHORISED DEALERSHIP Marine andIndustrialGenerators Overhauls, RepairsandService AND WARRANTYWORK Suppliers ofDonaldsonFilters Airport Road32,St.MaartenN.A. Compass Compass Compass [email protected] Vesta’s Wind Fuel PumpServiceAgents Parts, SalesandService Marine Engineers Accessible byDinghy Fuel InjectorService Servicing Gearboxes Cel:+17215564967 to DieselEngines , , , hitthereef! Compass Clover —Continued onnextpage Clover , andtheboatshitting Clover’s Clover frequently sailed over frequentlysailedover Vesta’s Wind’s anchored at Vigie anchoredatVigie , and,asithap- 9’6’draftpre- N.V. navi- MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45    RAMSEY, NJ RAMSEY, WHILE OUT AT SEA! . .COM .COM REFUELING TENDERS & ATL INC - RAMSEY, NJ USA INC - RAMSEY, ATL EMAIL: [email protected] S ? THAN PERSONAL WATER CRAFT Well priced at $399,950 Well ALSO IDEAL FOR Readers, Capacities 25 to Ph: 800-524-2019 • 340-344-2143 2006 Island Packet 445 “Tirnanog” 2006 Island Packet 445 “Tirnanog” FOR SALE Andrea King, Island Yachts Charters Yachts Andrea King, Island 1987 Island Packet 38’ “Salty Shores” Compass Gas, Diesel, & In-Stock & Rugged, Reliable, & Safe Standard TELEPHONE:

BOATBLADDERS WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU! WE WANT TO from YOU! We want to hear boat name or shoreside Be sure to include your name, consumer complaints or We do not publish individual Send your letters to [email protected]. EVER BEFORE WITH... Red Hook, St. Thomas, USVI • E-mail: [email protected] BOATBLADDERS Excellent condition. Life raft, bow thrusters, stereo, VHF, Excellent condition. Life raft, bow thrusters, stereo, VHF, 2 anchors, all Coast Guard equipment autopilot, chartplotter, 12’ Caribe RIB, bimini/dodger, electric winches. Rare centerboard two owner boat. Extremely well main- The centerboard and all center- tained by second owner. board brackets and hardware have been re-engi- Also added, a rudder keel strap not on early neered. bearings and epoxy New rudder IP’s of this year. This boat is set up perfectly for cruising glassed rudder. the Caribbean. Upgrades include: Maxwell windlass, new stanchions and life- 55 lb bronze Barnacle anchor, lines, new genoa tracks, primary winches, chainplates, standing rigging. Stalokís Harken furling, new S/S arch, New 6 x 65 watt solar panels with charge controller. 4JhJE 54hp. Contact: Yanmar custom centerboard, new +1-201-825-1400 GOT TRAVELRANGE? FARTHER FUEL BLADDERS t Fuel Turbine Compatible t Ready to Ship WORLDWIDE t Auxiliary Fuel Bladders t 500 Gal. - Larger Sizes Readily Upon Request Available [email protected] or, after April 1st, Bridget 1st, Bridget or, after April [email protected] 720-1116, e-mail bidsmac@hotmail. McNamara Tel. use! talents will be put to good com and your Thank you. Winterborn Joy and Ian S/V Reberth Dear contact you (preferably by address, and a way we can e-mail) if clarification is required. (Kudos are okay!) individual regatta results complaints. letters; however, your We do not publish anonymous print at your request. name may be withheld from 600 words. Letters may Please keep letters shorter than and fair play. be edited for length, clarity

cannot be matched. Marine Insurance My claims settlement record Readers, www.street-iolaire.com insurance. You never know how good The insurance business has changed. insurance, but there is no good cheap No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather, the honest broker can only say, your insurance is until you have a claim. There is good insurance, there is cheap “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” e-mail: [email protected] Compass in St. Lucia, applied for, and received, funding I have been connected with the marine insurance “Well, we tried to do it in 2005, but we failed; we to do it in 2005, but we “Well, we tried he asked. a DVD of that voyage?” “Would you like my I said, and hastily scribbled “Well, of course,” a package to my great surprise, Two weeks later, marvelous video should Recently, I decided that this adventurous yachtsman, So, in remembrance of an Roger’s DVDs: Here are the links to both of • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVAistOPij8 • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtvqjMI5Qak another way of “getting Cruisers might like to know A six-month-a-year cruiser, Sue Sandle on the yacht Last weekend we were privileged to see and hear An Not only are monetary donations required but, if business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers in the Lloyds market. him “Why?” Guard broke and the Canadian Coast were frozen in, sail back to for us so we could the sea ice Newfoundland. mailing address. a DVD enti- Roger Swanson, containing arrived from tled “Into the Ice”. of Sea Gypsies, so I did be available to the entire world find an e-mail address for a Google search to try to Google search returned an Roger Swanson. Sadly, my 82. obituary for Roger; he was I have uploaded his DVD and a wonderful gentleman, Channel. “Into the Ice” to my YouTube 2005”) (“Into The Ice: The NorthWestPassage &feature=youtu.be voyage”} {“Into The Ice 2007: successful Stan Louden St. Thomas Dear involved”. Clara from the Amy Winehouse Foundation to fund a music project. For those of you unaware, Amy Winehouse was a talented singer and musician from the UK, who spent some time on St. Lucia and got involved locally during those visits. After her death her father set up a charity “working to prevent the effects of drug and alcohol abuse on young people. Aiming to support, inform and inspire vulnerable and disadvantaged young people to reach their full potential”. The approved funding brings music and singing to the children at Dunnottar School for children and young adults with developmental disabilities and The Boys Training Centre, which is the only juvenile detention centre in St. Lucia. All the boys are there as a result of court orders, half are there for care and protection, the rest are minor offenders. Evening of Caribbean Music and Stories with Gene Lawrence, Lenny Stone and Kosmik Riddim and a per- formance by the children and young adults. The qual- ity of performance was amazing and the standing ovation justly deserved. The performers involved were obviously surprised and thrilled by their reception. The concert was part of their fundraising efforts because the grant was only for one year. The St. Lucia School of Music Folk Group, also performed and, once again, WOW. If you ever have the opportunity to see them play, don’t miss it. there are cruisers with any musical talents, or other- wise, who could spare a few hours while on the island please get in touch with either Sue Sandle, Berth G16, Rodney Bay Marina, Tel. 721-2010 or e-mail norman-

PPG Amron

: Permanent Antifouling and I were gone from St. Lucia by and I were gone from St. Readers, [email protected] Next to the French Bridge Clover Phone: + (590) 690 221 676 Compass ANTIFOULING SPECIALIST COPPERCOAT Fiberglass + Epoxy & Polyester Resins Epoxy primer + Polyurethane Top Coat Time Out Boat Yard Saint Martin BOAT PAINT & STUFF Continued from previous page Continued from This is a voyage that I would never make, so I asked In late July 2007, a dignified older gentleman joined During the cruising season we often welcome a The Ham Radio Club meets every Tuesday in St. SEE ‘A SAILING VOYAGE BY ROGER SWANSON’ Plant identity could be by a field guide to flora, but Good things to ask about are the leaves of the neem While visiting the Windward Islands, I learned that Luckily, TRY A NATURAL REMEDY My first survey, and I was going to have to recom- My first survey, and I was It was heartbreaking; this lovely example of fine this lovely example It was heartbreaking; (10 years and more…) us for a Tuesday lunch, and I began a conversation by us for a Tuesday lunch, and I began a conversation by asking if he was on his way to Trinidad for hurricane season. He said, “Oh no, I just came from Trinidad; I’m on my way to the Arctic. We are going to try to sail through the Northwest Passage — again!” dozen or so visiting yachts, mostly from Europe and dozen or so visiting yachts, mostly from Europe and the UK, but plenty of Americans, too. Thomas, USVI at Hook, Line and Sinker. All sorts of Thomas, USVI at Hook, Line and Sinker. All sorts of interesting characters drift in. This is because of our WINLINK repeater, which enables yachts at sea to send e-mails to the internet. The WINLINK plays a “commercial” every time it is accessed by a yacht. The commercial invites users to come to the Tuesday Ham Club Lunch in St. Thomas. Dear Compass Readers, many older people know these useful plants by sight. many older people know these useful plants by sight. John Nicholson Bequia tree, coconut oil, okra seeds, papaya (fruit, seeds and/ or leaves), aloe, ganja, “Christmas bush”, “vomit bush”, guava leaves, lemon juice and lime juice. many locally found plants are used to supplement many locally found plants are used to supplement pharmaceuticals. Ask local experts for their sugges- tions and methods of use. Generally, wash leaves, don’t mix herbs, and strain before use. If you have allergies, see a doctor before trying “bush remedies”. Dear mend that the boat be scrapped, or towed out of the or towed out of the mend that the boat be scrapped, what they ultimately did, harbor and sunk! Which is old fixtures and classic after removing all of the her outside of the har- gear. She sank as they towed when they disconnected bor, in the deep channel, the bilge pumps. to witness it. that time, so I didn’t have William Pringle Marine Surveyor English craftsmanship had once been a little jewel, had once been English craftsmanship and toilet; porcelain faucets, sink with bronze-inlayed and silk joinery; bronze hanging knees; beautiful teak But you the gas cabin-light fixtures. lampshades on planks of the through the shrunken could see daylight As a novice hear the non-stop pumping. topsides, and of, plumb- everything I could think surveyor, I checked (seized), (totally corroded), engine ing (rotten), electrics on ancient rigging; even sails in rags, tottering masts with a scraper and brad- diving her bottom in the slip bulging out from their awl, it did not look good: planks caulking gone, and frames due to corroded fasteners, up with the leaks. Short the pumps barely able to keep re-build, something beyond of a complete haul-out and she was a goner. the resources of her owners, — MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 Fletcher, cruisingontheyacht of Jerome“Jolly”Joseph,in1997awealthy WestVirginiancouple,JimandPenny Easter Regatta.Youcouldhearapindropintownonmostnights. cessful yearstocome. we wishthepublicationanditseditorsaveryhappyanniversarymanysuc- north uptheislandchain. good one.”Weglidedoutofthebay,preparedandreadyforoursail,headed the portwindowIsawwater-taxidriverJollyJosephmotoroverandyell,“Havea time, youknow.”Iwasstowingthelastbitofprovisionsingalleywhenthrough the anchorandlet’sgo.OurcharterguestsareexpectingustobeinSt.Martinon thing stowed,preparationsmadeforthesailtoSt.Martin.Thecaptainsaid,“Get innocence. work journalist.Despitetheacquittal,many werenotconvincedofthecouple’s widespread attentionintheUSmediadue toJim’sfriendshipwithanABCTVnet- courtroom ofshootingandkillingthepopular water-taxidriver.Theirtrialgained on theislandofBequia. stench oftheyoungandold,unexplaineddeathmyoldfriend,Jolly, thoughts andprayersovertheyears.TheliliesinBequiagraveyardmask following weekday. on theweekend.HeloanedmeEC$10untilIcouldpayhimback Bequia. Hewasakindsoul.Once,thebankhadclosedandIshortofcash nish workforJeffbackthen.Butmorerecentlyheplannedtobuildahousein Gulfstar ketch.Itwasmyfirstcharter-boatjob.JollyJosephhaddonesomevar- neur. I’dfirstmethimwhenIworkedforCaptainJeffHardgraveon the restofus.JollyJosephhaddied.Wedidn’tknowdetails. Martin whenweheardthenewsaboutJolly.Thecaptainwasshocked,aswere There werepersonalitemsneededaswell.Itwasn’tlongafterwe’darrivedinSt. was muchtodo—additionalshoppingbeforewepickedupourcharterguests. cook inandshesailedwell.AfewdayslaterwemotoredintoPhillipsburg.There crew andIreview I tookof Grenada, Bequia,GuadeloupeandAntiguaalmosteveryyear.Iencloseaphoto competed intheSydneyHobartRace,andnowwerace to reading mitted SeaGypsy…Ihaveverylittletodowiththeland.Exceptformyaddiction rest ofmylife!” and justlikeJimHawkins;I’mgonnasailaroundbeautifultropicalislands,forthe “Why shoulditjustbeanimaginarypleasure?I’mgoingtoliveintheCaribbean, Tide contained excellentanddetailedregattareports.SomeyearslaterIsold events, Isoonbecamefamiliarwith Stephens 34called “larger-than-life” SeaGypsycharacters,whomIfirstdiscoveredasalittleboy. great practicaladviceaboutboats,sails,engines,places,history…butmostofall — saltycharacterswhoarealmostpirate-like;sailingadventuresandnewislands; imagination thatareprovided.Everyissueisfullof the nearestrestaurantwithmycopy,toenjoygreatchildlikepleasuresof years, ’tilfinally,justlikeeveryoneelsewhoreads about seaadventuresand‘warmtropicalwaters’formuchofmyformative Stevenson’s birthplace.SowhowouldbesurprisedtofindoutthatIfantasized adventure inmymind. intense pleasureofslippingintomyownimagination,andexperiencingavisual me too,becausethiswasthefirstexperiencethatIhad,asachild,with Stevenson’s greatnovel bottle ofrum!’ so oftenafterwards:‘Fifteenmenonthedeadman’schest--Yo-ho-ho,anda ragged andscarred....thenbreakingoutinthatoldsea-songhesang man, histarrypigtailfallingovertheshoulderofsoiledbluecoat,hands sea-chest followingbehindhiminahand-barrow--atall,strong,heavy,nut-brown for acopyof Editor’s note:Forthoseunfamiliarwiththe circumstancessurroundingthedeath Judy Capper Oso Bolo It wasaquiettimeofyearontheislandBequia,October,1996,longafter Peter Morris,PortofSpain,Trinidad Oso Bolo The Anyone whoknewJollyJosephhadfondmemories.Hehasremainedinmy Jolly Josephwasagreatwatertaxidriver.Healsosuccessfulentrepre- Well, Ihaveactuallymanagedtodothissuccessfully,andhappily;amacom- After movingtoTrinidadmanyyearsagoandrefurbishingaSparkman& Stan Louden,St.Thomas,USVI Caribbean Compass That wasin1948!JustslightlypostWWII,agloomy,Scottishcity,near Every sailorwillrecognizethesewordsfromtheopeningpageofRobertLouis I rememberhimasifitwereyesterday,hecameploddingtotheinndoor,his and purchasedaFrers43nowcalled Caribbean Compass Jaguar wasanchoredofftheFrangipaniHotelinherusualspot.Wehadevery- wasabeautifulCTketch.Shecomfortable,hadnicegalleyto Caribbean Compass Compass Caribbean Compass beinglaunchedatPeakeYachtServicesinChaguaramas.My Caribbean Compass CC: READERS&WRITERS Morning Tide coveredthestoryinSeptember1997. hasmanagedtosubstitute,everymonth,forthatfirstbook. Treasure Island didanexcellentjobofcoveringtheinvestigation. Carefree over thelasttwodecades.Mymonthlysearch so thatIcouldparticipateinCaribbeansailing dragsmeashore,tocurlupinthecornerof Caribbean Compass . Anditevokessuchpowerfulmemoriesfor everymonthtogetlocalsailingnewsand , weretriedandacquittedinaSt.Vincent Jaguar Caribbean Compass , ayachtwhichhadsuccessfully Treasure Island magazinebecauseit Jaguar -like adventure atregattasin Island Star, , Idecided, Morning a

JAN & TONY COLLINSON is perfectlyfeasible. to theWindwardIslands ing theharborweretotallywrong.Someofguides(ChrisDoyle’s in thesouthofStLuciaon17thJanuary.TheGPSdirectionsIusedforenter- Dear At somepointtheboatlostherkeel. A minuteorsolaterIcouldseewaterwellingupveryfastnearthetoiletbulkhead. At thispointIlookeddownthecompanionwayandsawwateroverfloorboards. the hullhadbeenholedduetoswellthatliftedboatagainstrocks/reef. anchorage oftheverysuccessfulcharter yacht ing thisharborverycarefully. Street wroteintheNovember2005issueof anchor onthesouthcoastofSt.Lucia.WeregretthatJeremydidn’tseewhat Don proliferation ofanchoringrestrictions. years. Hehaswrittento Martinique Jeremy Hobday ed guide! playground bythelocalchildren. and takentothedump(atmyexpense).Inmeantimeitisusedasanadventure three ofus. received offersforaroomatheavydiscountafterthefirstthreefreedays the sympathy formyplight.Manylocalshelpedwithoutanythoughtofreward.Ialso how andwhen—buttoolateforme! by December2015;financehasalreadybeenobtained.Nowit’sjustaquestionof hadn’t beenupdatedinthelastsixyears). there. BewareofinstructionsontheGPS,asminewereradicallywrong(mycharts superficial damage.Inrecenttimesatleasttwoothercruisingboatshavebeenlost loose cashdisappeared,too.Iwasnotinsured. while manypersonalitemswerewashedoutthroughthehole.Mycreditcardsand quantity ofsandcameinthroughthebreachandmadesalvageevenmoredifficult, pretty perilousandvisibilitywasdowntoabouttwofeet,evenwithtorches.Agreat stant poundingcontactwiththereefinsmallswell.Divinginsidehullwas ing thistimeaboutthreemetresofthestarboardsidewerestoveinfromcon- and ends(waitingforthebulldozertoberepairedsowecouldhaulherout)dur- small reef,andshestayedtherefortwodayswhilewedivedonhertoretrieveodds my instructions,shewaspulleduptooclosetothebeachwherethereanother repositioning herhullonthekeelbeachwasjustnotfeasible.Also,despite was notmuchlefttosellexceptthedinghyandwinches. pitable andgenerallyagreathelpwhoendedupwithlotofusefulitems,there but betweenanEnglishexpatwhoclaimedsalvage,andanotherwasmosthos- murky itwasimpossibletoseethehullfromsurface. in aboutsevenmetresofwater300fromthebeach.Thewasso good reserveofair.Later,whenafewmorepeopleclamberedonthehull,shesank boat (3.84-metrebeam;LOA10.77metres)andthebulgeofbeamprovideda water, buoyedupbytheairtrappedinportsideofhull.Sheisaverywide my bagandcomputerbefore not totryenterinrainfallwhenmud thewaterwillobscurereefs.” See Laborie Reefs,buttheentranceto harboriseasytoseeingoodconditions. your eyeswellpeeled,asBalembouche Rocksextend600yardsoffshore,asdo stay inrelativelycalmwaters. long porttacksandshortstarboardtacks; stayclosetoshoreavoidthecurrentand attractive villageinallofSt.Lucia.Youarehardonthewindforonlysixmiles. It is Using themotorImanagedtogetmysailboat, This ismyfirstrealopportunitytocommunicatesincerunningonareefatLaborie LOST INLABORIE “There areaboutninefeetofwaterinside theharbor.Yearsagothiswasafavorite Laborie isoftenrecommendedasanalternativetoVieuxFortforthosewishing to Editor’s note:JeremyHobdayhasbeencruisingtheLesserAntillesformany,many Laborie iswellworthavisit,butgocarefullyandbesuretotakerecentlyupdat- Now Istillhavetofinalizethedisposalofhull,whichwillprobablybecutup The peopleofLaborieweresympatheticandhelpful;manyexpressedtheir There isaprojectinhandforbuoyingtheentry,andthisexpectedtobefinished In theninedaysIwastheretwootherboatstouchedreefbutgotoffwithonly If shehadn’tlostthekeel(2.5tons)Iwouldhaveconsideredrebuildingher,but In thenextfewdayswerefloatedherwithairbagsanddraggedupbeach, I hadtwocrewonboard,andonlyjusttimetogetthemintothedinghy,grab “Forget thefathometerandGPS;this isnavigationwith‘EyeballMarkI’!Keep “From BeaumontPointcomehardonthewindandheadforLaborie—most Street’s Guide Compass Readers, , page62,Chart15,andreadthecautions anddirectionsforenter- on asmallreefoffthebeach damage onthestarboardsideresultedfrompounding port bow.After The initialcauseofsinkingwasasmallholenearthe , Patuelli)havebeencorrectedrecentlyandinfacttheentry Compass the Month Letter of Tchin onsubjectsrangingfromavoidingfishpotstothe Tchin turnedonhersidewithonlytherailsabove wasrefloated,widespread Compass Phryna Tchin, : , buttheskipperwarnedothers backintodeeperwater,but Sailor’s Guide MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 Discover.

Antigua Slipway Chandlery HotHotHotSpot Coffee Shop Copper & Lumber Hotel Galley Bar Sunsail Reception Office The Anchorage DOCKYARD/ENGLISH HARBOUR Dream. at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue

+1 (721) 588-3396 or Readers! When in Antigua, pick up your free monthly copy of ): PICK UP! bold Compass Caribbean Compass Ahoy, TradeWinds is now looking for Charter Crews looking for Charter Crews is now TradeWinds catamarans! for our fleet of term charter • Captain with RYA Yacht Master Offshore (or equivalent) Offshore Master Yacht • Captain with RYA for cooking • Hostess/Chef with a passion to get qualified) • DiveMaster (qualified or willing Epicurean (Friars Hill Road, Customer Service Desk) Townhouse Megastore JOLLY HARBOUR Anjo Insurance Budget Marine Epicurean Jolly Harbour Marina Office Anjo Insurance Antigua Yacht Club Antigua Yacht Services AYC Marina Office Bailey’s Supermarket Cat Club Marina Office Falmouth Harbour Marina Jane’s Yacht Services Lord Jim’s Locker Mad Mongoose OnDeck (AYC upstairs) Sea Breeze Skullduggery +1 (721) 553-0215 Come and join the fun lifestyle of a company with yachts in the Come and join the fun lifestyle Mediterranean. Caribbean, South Pacific and Qualifications Required: on-site in the Caribbean. full training offer We earning potential. If you are self-motivated This is a FUN job with great on life, this could be your DREAM job! and have a positive outlook for an interview: TODAY CALL with your CV + photo to: Alternatively send an email [email protected] www.trade-winds.com the appear in ST JOHN’S FALMOUTH Explore.

A Free . Like Cruising Yachting magazine , they are still Sail in 2002 with pilot , if used as a pilot, who can trace his (17th edition) and Caribbean Compass , now in its 17th edi- was completely revised , in which the courses to béké periplus is considered by the old timers to printed in 1869. Much of the pilot- and surrounding waters (e.g. the Morant The Panama Cruising Guide by Jerome Noel, a very experienced sailor goes to press, Don, at age 84, is sailing with (13th edition). All are excellent guides. Pilot book: navigation was The first written aid to coastal — Encyclopedia Britannica Guide book: a place, designed A book of information about — Oxford Dictionary 80s, cruising In the late 1970s and early Of the guides that were written in that era, the was first printed, my own reference was Norie the pilot book, or set forth in terms be steered between ports were of which exam- of wind directions. These books, century BC, describe ples survive from the 4th anchorages, cur- routes, headlands, landmarks, rents, and port entrances. for the use of visitors or tourists. guides to the Eastern Caribbean, or various parts thereof, in Spanish, French, German and English, sprang up like mushrooms. only ones that are still regularly published and updated are Simon and Nancy Scott’s Guide to the Virgin Islands by Don Street Compass Street’s Guide: Martinique to Trinidad . (I would urge Maurice to have John’s guide reprinted in . (I would urge Maurice to have John’s guide reprinted Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands WHAT’S ON MY MIND WHAT’S A Cruising Guide to the Lesser Antilles was the first foreign yacht to explore here. But do your best to was the first foreign yacht to explore here. But do your Sailing Directions Iolaire The Panama Guide: A Cruising Guide to the Isthmus of Panama The Panama Guide: A Cruising Guide to the Isthmus Sailing Directions for the West Indies Cruising Guide to Martinique Yachtsman’s Guide to Jamaica A Cruising Guide to the Lesser Antilles . They produced in 1995, and updated and reprinted in 2001 (by Seaworthy. They produced in 1995, and updated and reprinted in Guides, Pilots and 1869 and 1869 Pilots Guides, Anniversary note: Don Street has been a regular contributor to My 1966 From when I first arrived in the Eastern Caribbean in 1959 to 1966 when The latest guides on the scene are those of Frank Virgintino and Steve Pavlidis. But my editor, my publisher and I made a big mistake. The revised and expanded And when I look at the sailing directions in the 1966 guide, or rather In 1996 the late John Lethbridge, an enthusiastic ocean racer, a member of the In 1996 the late John Lethbridge, an enthusiastic ocean In the western Caribbean, Nancy Schwalbe Zydler and Tom Zydler explored theIn the western Caribbean, Nancy Schwalbe Zydler and Martinique, and in particular its east coast, was superbly covered by the now very Martinique, and in particular its east coast, was superbly since our Year One. He wrote his first magazine article, “Going South”, for magazine in September 1964. The excellent “Don Street is Not Dead” by Andy Schell, giving an in-depth history of Don’s life and work, appeared last May at www.sail- magazine.com. As this issue of his friend Jeff Curtin in the Grenadines during a Virgin Islands-to-Grenada cruise. just as valid today as when they were written 48 — or sometimes 146 — years ago. Frank has produced an extensive series of self-published free guides covering the Greater and Lesser Antilles. Steve has extended his series of guides to the Bahamas eastward and south through the Lesser Antilles. Whether these guides will stand the test of time, only time will tell. They will suffer if they are not regularly updated, as are the Scotts’ and Doyle’s guides. works should have been called pilots, not guides. updated shoreside information, good charts and plenty of pictures, including a lot of aerial photos. Bauhaus regularly updates his guide: it is now in its fifth printing. be the guide that opened the Caribbean to the cruising yachtsman and made bare- boat chartering possible. This was revised, expanded and published by in 1974 and in 1978. In the early 1980s, WW Norton took over. Now available at iUniverse and Amazon, and expanded into four volumes to cover all the Eastern Caribbean from the west coast of Puerto Rico, east to Barbados, south to Trinidad, and west along the Venezuelan coast and offshore islands to Aruba. Cruising Guide to the Lesser Antilles ing and sailing directions found in my first guide, and later in my expanded guides, was pulled from the 1869 Sailing Directions. and Wilson’s tion, and Chris Doyle’s RORC, Commodore of the Royal Jamaican Yacht Club, and a marine civil engineer, RORC, Commodore of the Royal Jamaican Yacht Club, produced a find Jerome’s guide as his is far superior. by Zone Publishing. Again, Cays and San Pedro Bank); it was republished in 2002 as a timeless pilot. Frank this should not be regarded as a guide but rather several years ago, obtained Virgintino, who started the Free Cruising Guides series John’s chartlets in his permission from John’s son Maurice to use some of Panamanian coast and San Blas islands for three years in the 38-foot engineless yawlPanamanian coast and San Blas islands for three years Mollymawk Cruising Guide to Jamaica updated by an experienced its entirety as a pilot — with the pilotage information guide.) Jamaica sailor as necessary — to be used alongside Frank’s Publications), Noel and Lethbridge’s books, it is really not a guide; it is more of a pilot, a source ofNoel and Lethbridge’s books, it is really not a guide; it information that will be still be valid 50 years hence. As more and more yachts head- ed to Panama, Eric Bauhaus produced hard to find who cruised Martinique for 14 years. Jerome, working with Phillipe Lascheneze- who cruised Martinique for 14 years. Jerome, working guide in 1986. This Heude and Françoise Virlogeux, produced the first Martinique true guide was financed by Trois Rivières rum. Phillipe, a Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands was a lifetime sailor and head family back to the French settlers who arrived in 1640, and reprinted in 1989, but of Trois Rivières rum distillery. The book was rewritten the guide completely. It has then Phillipe left Trois Rivières and Jerome took over should be out in 2015. been reprinted three times since 1989 and a new edition in both French and English. From its first printing the guide has been available than a cruising guide. Jerome Jerome’s guide should be regarded as a pilot, rather (transits to the British) for is an architect and his profile drawings showing ranges the so-called “dangerous” entering harbors are superb. If you are intending to cruise east coast of Martinique, my is adequate. In 1963, with a crew of myself, my late wife Marilyn and our daughter is adequate. In 1963, with a crew of myself, my late wife Dory, age two, — Continued from page 31 …CLODS CALENDAR

Congratulations on your 20th anniversary. We cruised the Caribbean from 1999 to 2007. During that time we always looked forward to the latest issue. We even wrote a few articles. Now that it is online, we are reading the Compass again since MARCH we live inland in Panama and don’t often see a hard copy. We have always felt that the Compass had a great balance between being informative and being entertaining. Cruising between Florida and Panama by 2 Public holiday in BVI (Anniversary of HL Stoutt’s birthday) way of the eastern island chain and back and forth between Venezuela and 3 Public holiday in Anguilla (James Ronald Webster Day) Puerto Rico, it was always so nice to have the perspective of other cruisers who 3 – 7 Rolex Swan Cup, Virgin Gorda. www.nautorswan.com went before us. Knowing ahead of time that certain anchorages might be full of 5 Gill Commodore’s Cup. www.heinekenregatta.com great snorkeling, or perhaps full of pirates, often helped us plot a safe course. A 5 FULL MOON series of articles about sailing along the Colombian coast was especially helpful 5 Public holiday in Guyana and Suriname (Phagwah) to us. 5 – 8 35th St. Maarten Heineken Regatta. www.heinekenregatta.com Although we have been living without a boat for eight years, our great memo- 6 – 8 Abordo magazine regatta, Samaná, Dominican Republic. ries of cruising the Caribbean are right with us all the time and the Compass is a http://www.puertobahiasamana.com big part of those good memories. Keep up the good work! 8 International Women’s Day Stephanie Martin and Tom Lane, Formerly aboard Mima 8 – 17 St. Patrick’s Festival, Montserrat. www.visitmontserrat.com/st_patricks_festival Congratulations to the crew of the Caribbean Compass for 20 years of service to 9 Public holiday in BVI (Commonwealth Day) and Belize (Baron Bliss Day) the cruising community in the Caribbean. It is not always true that you get what 11 – 14 Caribbean Superyacht Rendezvous, Virgin Gorda, BVI. you pay for: the Compass is free for the taking and full of useful information. www.loropianasuperyachtregattaandrendezvous.com In our early cruising days I saved articles about Venezuela, Colombia and 11 – 15 Triskell Cup Regatta, Guadeloupe. http://triskellcup.com Panama, land excursions on islands and recipes using local fresh produce. I had 11 – 15 Caribbean Fine Art Fair, Barbados. www.cafafair.com several folders of useful information that received a lot of use. The beginning of a 13 – 15 Puerto Bahia Dinghy Regatta. http://www.puertobahiasamana.com new month heralded a new Compass filled with hours of reading and entertain- 13 – 16 Annual Dark & Stormy Regatta, Anegada, BVI. [email protected] ment. Before reliable WiFi and electronic books, a cruiser could actually run out of 14 Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines (National Heroes’ Day) reading material and a new Compass was a gold mine. Before digging into the 15 Public holiday in St. Barts (Mi-Careme) feature articles I read the letters to the editor to find out relevant news (and gos- 17 Public holiday in Montserrat (St. Patrick’s Day); sip) brewing in the cruising community. I am also a big fan of the Caribbean Eco- St. Patrick’s Day Festival, Grenada News section. Many of the islands are trying to address issues of pollution and 18 – 22 5th Annual SMILE Boat Show, Marin, Martinique. habitat destruction and positive press helps their efforts and informs us of new or http://www.otmarin.com impending regulations. I strongly feel that the content of the Caribbean Compass 19 Public holiday in Colombia (St. Joseph’s Day) represents the interests of the cruising community and yacht-support businesses in 19 – 22 St. Barths Bucket Regatta. www.bucketregattas.com the Caribbean islands. 20 Vernal Equinox As our horizons broadened and my husband, Hunter, and I began have our own 20 – 22 Samaná Spring Dinghy Regatta, Dominican Republic. adventures, I started to write articles for the Compass about our hikes, local food http://www.puertobahiasamana.com and current events on the islands. I considered it an honor to be published 25 – 29 Curaçao International Film Festival. www.curacaoiffr.com in the Compass. 26 – 29 Puerto Rico Heineken Jazz Fest. http://prheinekenjazz.com Devi Sharp, now a CLOD in North Carolina 27 – 29 St. Thomas International Regatta, USVI. Formerly on S/V Arctic Tern www.stthomasinternationalregatta.com 28 – 29 Antigua Laser Open, AYC 28 – 29 PowerAde Regatta, St. Maarten. SMYC 30 Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago (Spiritual Baptist “Shouter” Liberation Day) 30 – 5 April BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival, Tortola. www.bvispringregatta.org TBA Caribbean Arts & Crafts Festival, Tortola, BVI. [email protected] APRIL

2 – 6 Bequia Easter Regatta. See ad on page 15 Offi ce Space 3 Public holiday in many places (Good Friday) 4 FULL MOON 6 Public holiday in many places (Easter Monday) 7 Goat Races, Buccoo, Tobago Available for Rent 13 –18 Les Voiles de Saint-Barth. www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com 13 –18 Oyster Regatta BVI. www.oysteryachts.com/events/ 13 – 19 Rincón International Film Festival, Puerto Rico. www.rinconfilm.com 15 – 20 Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta. See ad on page 18 Available from 1 April 2015 18 - 26 Tobago Jazz Experience. www.tobagojazzexperience.com MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 19 Massy Stores Dinghy Regatta, Barbados. www.barbadosyachtclub.com 19 Public holiday in Venezuela (Signing of the Act of Venezuelan Independence) For lease 595 sq. feet 19 – 21 Marina ZarPar Regatta, Boca Chica, Dominican Republic. http://marinazarpar.com 22 International Earth Day Prime location for a 24 Guadeloupe to Antigua Race. www.sailingweek.com 25 Yachting World magazine Round Antigua Race. www.sailingweek.com 25 – 30 St. Barth Film Festival. www.stbarthff.org Marina Related Business 26 – 1 May Antigua Sailing Week. www.sailingweek.com 27 Public holiday in Curaçao (King’s Birthday) 28 Public holiday in Barbados (National Heroes’ Day) On-site Marina 30 – 3 May West Indies Regatta, St. Barth. westindiesregatta.com 30 – 10 May 24th St. Lucia Jazz Festival. www.stluciajazz.org TBA Carriacou Maroon & String Band Music Festival. offers 60-berths www.carriacoumaroon.com Conveniently located in South St. George’s All information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time this issue of Compass went to press — but plans change, so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. Contact: If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar, please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name and contact information of the organizing body to Le Phare Bleu [email protected] Boutique Hotel & Marina for Rental Details We are on-line: Phone: 473-444-2400 www.caribbeancompass.com MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49                F D P  E T R A C  of Tyrrel Bay. D N Bar open all Day I W Tuesday to Saturday Tuesday 6.00 - 9.00 for Dinner 6.00 - 9.00 for S G A Use our new Dinghy Dock Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou Tyrrel Bay, L Situated on the South Side on the South Situated Open 11.30 - 2.00 for Lunch Open 11.30 - 2.00 for Reservations recommended F Sunday Brunch - 14.30 11.30 Phone (473) 443 6500 or call CH 16 Phone (473) 443 6500 continued on next page Free WiFi Yacht Services & Deliveries NEILPRYDE Sails Grenada Deck Gear, Caretaking and Deliveries [email protected] Nick Williams, Manager Nick Williams, www.neilprydesails.com Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 Tel: Engineering, fabrication and Engineering, fabrication welding. Fabrication and repair of welding. Fabrication TechNick Ltd. TechNick stainless steel and aluminium items. stainless steel and aluminium S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada Blue, Grenada S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Check out our website or contact us directly for a competitive quote on rugged and well-built sails that are well suited to the harsh environment of the charter trade and blue water cruising. Located on the Kirani James Blvd. (Lagoon Road) Jeff Fisher – Grenada (473) 537-6355 Call: (473) 443-9399

[email protected] Hubert J. Winston 18 Victoria St. Roseau & Bay St. Portsmouth Dominica +767-275-2851 Mobile / 445-4322 +767-448-7701 Fax [email protected] www.dominicayachtservices.com www.carriacou.net Trans-Atlantic Yachts! Trans-Atlantic Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean YOUR Duty free fuel (+10.000lt) EU-VAT (16%) importation (16%) EU-VAT Land and houses for sale THIS COULD BE www.midatlanticyachtservices.com Providing all vital servicesProviding to Carriacou Real Estate Ltd MID ATLANTIC MID ATLANTIC - Relax! Leave the work to us - For full details see our website: or contact Carolyn Alexander at or contact Carolyn MARKET PLACE AD We also handle Villa Rentals & also handle Villa We e-mail: [email protected] YACHT SERVICES YACHT TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 +351 TEL +351 292 391616 FAX Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Chandlery, Pilots, RiggingIncl. [email protected] Tel: (473) 443 8187 Fax: (473) 443 8290 (473) Tel: Property Management on Carriacou Property PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES / FAIAL, HORTA PT-9900-144 DOMINICA YACHT SERVICES CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50

Voted BVI Best Yacht Brokera VOTED BESTBVI YACHT AND BROKERAGE BYPROPERTY YACHT READERSCHOICEAWARDS IN2013& 2014 44' Mason1987 Asking $125K Asking 39' Priviledge 391991 # O N S Caribbean CompassMarketPlace U M A B L Asking $129K Asking E S W I N D  C A R T E 43' JeanneauSO43DS ‘02  P D F Asking $139K Asking              g   e b 68' Formosa Ketch ‘85 44' Lagoon4402008 GGOLDEN 40' Passport 401981 40' Passport y For &information reservations Tel: (758)450-9792 [email protected] or contactyourlocalislandagent O Pro Asking $399K Asking Asking $200K Asking L Asking $89K Asking Genuine localand internationalcuisine D E p N www.bviyachtsales.com right in the heart ofGrosright intheheart Islet MARKET PLACEAD ert

YOUR TTASTE THIS COULDBE A S y T and Yacht Readers Choice Awards in 2013&2014! E

RRESTAURANT E S T 38' Maxim3802000 A U Asking $175K Asking R 44' Trintella 441980 A N

T

Asking $125K Asking &

BBAR A R 38' R&CLeopard 38 ‘99 continuedonnextpage (784) 4573856•Cell: (784)4952272 •VHF68 St. Vincent &theGrenadinesVC0400 E-mail: [email protected] PPiper MarineStore T/F: 784-457-3114 Cell:784-593-6333 CARIBBEAN DIESEL Marine paints, varnish, andmuch more! Asking $179K Asking Marine EngineServices i Bequia - Port Elizabeth Port - Bequia p Rule &Jabscopumpsparts Port Elizabeth,Bequia e r Lifeline andrigswage Tyrone Caesar

M Racor filters West epoxy a r 38' Catalina Morgan 38 45' Downeast 1979 CC ‘93. i n 44' C&1988 Asking $49K Asking Asking $89K Asking e Asking $59K Asking

S t o r e MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 $295,000 $499,000 $2,600,000 2004 Leopard 47 2004 Leopard 2006 Dolphin 460 2006 Dolphin 2006 Privilege 745

215-508-2704

$895,000 $879,000 $495,000 continued on next page 2009 Catana 50 2009 Catana 2003 Catana 521 2003 Catana 2000 Catana 471 2000 Catana

$579,000 €895.000 $1,500,000 2002 Gunboat 62 2002 Gunboat 2013 Lagoon 52 2013 Lagoon 2007 Dolphin 460 2007 Dolphin

Now open at the Bequia Marina open Now choice for fine dining Top Stunning views WIFI available Great cocktails Great Open for lunch and dinner Open for For reservations 432 4559 contact 456 9868 or For International and Caribbean style menu International and Caribbean $295,000 $449,000 $829,000 1997 Catana 471 1997 Catana 2002 Catana 581 2002 Catana www.multihullcompany.com The World’s Leader in Multihull in Multihull Leader The World’s and Charter Sales, Service Need Assistance? Have Questions? Contact us! Contact Questions? Have Need Assistance? 1990 Prout Quasar 50 Quasar 1990 Prout

Featured Brokerage Listings Brokerage Featured The Multihull Company The Multihull Tel/Fax: Tel/Fax: for

St. Vincent St. Vincent VHF Ch 08 capgourmet Grenada Jeff Jones (784) 458 8918 954-557-4050 868-680-8909 473-440-1668 Jaryd Forbes Jaryd & the Grenadines @vincysurf.com UNION ISLAND Chris Rundlett Chris restaurant & boutique hotel Trinidad & Tobago Fort Lauderdale, FL Lauderdale, Fort [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] crescent beach, bequia industry bay,

784.458.3400

Farm and fisherman to table plantation. coconut beachfront a at Open daily for lunch and dinner. Call directions or reservations. reservations. or directions Bequia Beach, Crescent (Industry Bay) 784.458.3400 784.458.3400

www.sugarreefbequia.com Open daily for lunch and 12-9pm supper, 2 miles from the harbor. PH Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean St Martin 268-717-4536 Carl Olivier Guadeloupe Broker Spotlight Broker Virgin Islands Virgin +590 690 34 20 60 +590 690 58 66 06 Antoine Lelievre Antoine Alexis Boucaud De [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 [email protected] or contactyourlocalisland agent MARKET PLACEAD YOUR THIS COULDBE Caribbean CompassMarketPlace Book itnow:

MANDY THODY WITHOUT IT LEAVE PORT DON’T Caribbean Compass We’re ontheWeb! www.caribbeancompass.com DJI Inspire&Mariner/GOPRO4drones Spotless Stainless Spotless Stainless OOcean AerialArt www.facebook.com/OceanAerialAart Unique, breathtakingaerialdrone Contact: [email protected] Makes StainlessSteelSparkle. Makes StainlessSteelSparkle. saw theiradin to tellouradvertisersyou No Rubbing.Scrubbing.Polishing. Brush ON Rinse OFF Rinse ON Brush NoRubbing.Scrubbing.Polishing. Brush ON Rinse OFF Rinse ON Brush Spotless Spotless Available atCaribbeanChandleriesor photography &videography. Available atCaribbeanChandleriesor GreatformarketingofHomes, ☛ c Yachts, ResortsandMarinas Available Caribbean-wide e a

+1 758-7240661 REMEMBER eoeafter before n Stainless.com Stainless.com

A e r Compass i a l

A r ! t MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53

CHRIS DOYLE

3208 CATERPILLARS 2x3208 375hp marine engines/ZF transmissions. Fully rebuilt, zero hrs. Tel: (784) 528-7273 E-mail: [email protected] SCHNEIDER KOMPRESSOR Pressure 10 bar, suction achievement 510 l/min, ten- sion 400V, speed 1240, con- tainer volume 90L. For uses with very high aerial need by highly efficient 2 cylinder Aggregates EC$10,000. E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (784) 530-4667 E-mail: [email protected] SAILS AND CANVAS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL DEALS at http://doylecaribbean. com/specials.htm ADMIRALTY BAY, BEQUIAADMIRALTY BAY, moorings. Off2x block & chain one inPlantation House; in approx 16’approx 35’ & one Details atof water. Offers. http://www.smudge.com/ Trailer type, Line drawings/photos and numbers in count. Include name, address US 50¢ PER WORD RENTALS Pre-paid by the 10th of the month CLASSIFIEDS MISC. FOR SALE accompanying classifieds are US$10. e-mail: [email protected] 4200W GENERATOR 110/220V with only 6 hrs. EC$5000.Tel: (784) 528-7273. BEQUIA – MT. PLEASANT Tahiti igloo, Rentals available. 3 bdrms, 2 baths & pool. Tel: (784) 533-4865. www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com www.caribbeanhouseforsaleonline.com LA POMPE, BEQUIA Large 2 bedroom house and/ or 1 bed studio apartment.Big verandah and patio, stunning view, cool breeze. Internet, cable TV. 2 weeks minimum, excellent long-term rates. Tel: (784) 495 1177 email: [email protected] rey house with fenced gar- rey house with Upstairs apt den on ¼ acre. 1 bath, has 2 bedrooms, Downstairs large veranda. 1 bath- apt has 3 bedrooms, garden. room, opens onto Available immediately EC$800,000 Laura Tel: (473) 443-6269 or +44 208-621- 5001 E-mail: [email protected]

Great http:// Near Lots streetiolaire@ Former flo- Good condi- E-mail - East side Clarkes PROPERTY FOR SALE www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com CARRIACOU LAND, and multi-acre tracts. Great views overlooking Southern Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay. www.caribtrace.com LAND FOR SALE 10,000 square feet at Mt. Pleasant, Bequia, with a wide view of Admiralty Bay. Optional architect-designed approved plans available for a 2-bedroom house. US $112,000. Tel: (784) 458-3656 CARRIACOU - HERMITAGE Overlooking Tyrrel Bay. 2 sto- CARRIACOU - PRIME LAND Stunning panoramic view over- looking Sandy Island & the Grenadines, northern exposure, cooling breezes, four beaches, excellent snorkeling E-mail: [email protected] GRENADA Court Bay. Excellent views, water access, plots available. 0.9 acres to 9,000 sq.ft. Prices from US$5 to $10 sq/ft depending on size and location. Including 50' of sand waterfront with steep drop off to deep water. DOMINICA - PORTSMOUTH House on 31,000 sq/ft, w/ all utilities. Breathtaking view of the Caribbean Sea. View of your boat mooring from the terrace. www.dominica-house-for-sale.com BEQUIA – MT. PLEASANT Interesting & unusual, 3 bdrms, 2 baths, pool. Tel: (784) 533-4865 www.caribbeanhouseforsaleonline.com [email protected] 42’ JEANNEAU 1997 tilla boat currently based in Bequia & chartering Grenada to St. Lucia. 4 berths, sleeping 8, 2 heads w/shwrs. US$30,000 & open to all reasonable offers. Tel: (784) 492-3098 E-mail [email protected] 1981 OCEANIC 46 CRUISER Lying St. Martin. Ready to go US$149,000. Visit: oceanic46forsale.com or Tel: (721) 550-8721 BEQUIA - MT. PLEASANT views, large lots from US$5/sq.ft. www.bequialandforsale.com BEQUIA-MAC’S PIZZERIA Waterfront location, Bequia’s most popular res- taurant. Same owner-man- ager for 31 yrs. Complete land, buildings, equipment. Island Pace Realty. Tel: (784) 458-3544 Email: emmett@ islandpace.com BEQUIA- BUILDING LOT La Pompe, oceanfront property with spectacular view of Petit Nevis, Isle a Quatre and Mustique. 11,340 sq/ft. US$125,000 Tel: (613) 931-1868 E-mail: [email protected] hotmail.com TAYANA 37' 1977 TLC. Volvotion needs a little job scheduledexcellent. Bottom to sell forin Feb. Owner anxious Puerto Lahealth reasons. Lying US$30,000.Cruz, Venezuela. 484 6121Mike Lyon Tel: 58 416

by Hull One CLASSIFIEDS Built by Pacific

Doghouse & bimini. Doghouse & bimini. Immaculately maintained, roller headsail, staysail, main, mizzen, spinnaker. Bow- thruster, 3 anchors, windlass, Perkins 4-108, dinghy/ob, water maker, Raymarine instruments, chart plotter, AIS, radar, autopilot, life raft, EPIRB, VHF, SSB, Pactor solar panels, fridge, freezer, WiFi and so much more. Reduced US$49,990 E-mail: [email protected] IRWIN 43 “Summer Wind” outright sale or fractional ownership.Professionally maintained, immaculate condition, ready to go. Lying at Rodney Bay Marina. Brochure on request with photos & video. E-mail: [email protected] 1986 AMEL MANGO owner, lying Grenada. Ready to go for US$150,000 OBO. http:// www.amel-mango-for-sale.com HANS CHRISTIAN 33T 1984 New 250hp. 4 strokes, very economical, quiet & clean running. Sleeps 6 in 3 cabins, perfect for overnight charters. Tel: (784) 528-7273 37' SOUTHERLY 115 SLOOP 1985 Lightly used by original owner good condition. 39hp Yanmar new 2007 serv- iced professionally. UK Flag, lying Bequia US $ 25,000 E-mail: [email protected] 57' MIKADO KETCH 1975 GRP, Perkins 106hp, 30hrs since refit. Interior full refit 2014. 11 berths. Lying Carriacou .US$78,000. French flag. E-mail: [email protected] 57' MIKADO KETCH 1978 GRP, Perkins 115 hp, standard exchange. 20hrs to renew. French flag. US$20,000. E-mail: [email protected] #68. Fully reconditioned & ready for cruising. US$96,000. Contact Doug Atkins for detailed infor- mation.Tel: (340) 642-6273 cell, (340) 692-2673 desk E-mail: [email protected] 42’ SEARAY SUNDANCER 1992 1987 DANA 24 [email protected] ALAN PAPE 43’ C/C STEEL KETCH Seacraft. Lying in Barbados. US$55,000 negotiable. Zac Tel: (246) 844-4818 or leave mes- sage (246) 271-5643 E-mail:

E-mail: E-mail: LYING Immaculate Economical w/cabin, 2x300 1991 CATALINA 34 Sloop with tall rig & wing keel. Lying Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. US$50,000. OBO, Deborah. [email protected] 38’ BAYLINER HARBOUR SHUTTLE TRINIDAD TT$70,000.00, ONO. Tel: (868) 634-4934 Email: [email protected] and reliable 2x Hino diesels.2 strms, 2 heads/ shwr & tub, galley, 2 helms. Great cruis- ing and liveaboard vessel. Canadian flag, lying Grenada. Tel:(473) 406-8217 [email protected] FORMULA 30 2002 condition throughout. 2x 220hp V6. Lots of installed extras. US$55,000. E-mail: [email protected] 40’ STEEL KETCH, 1986 40’ STEEL KETCH, 1986 design, Gouwzee, NA. Draft 5’ 9”. Fully equipped and ready for offshore sailing. Lying Martinique. US$98,000. Flyer available. 28’ Bowen, 2x200 hp DIVE BOAT 42’ Must Sell, prices reduced considerably Tel: (784) 582- 8828/457-4477 E-mail [email protected] Yamaha. Seats 12 passen- gers, collapsible top, onboard deck shower. 38FT BOWEN hp Yanmar Turbo, seats 20 passengers, large hard top, stereo, deck shower/head, swim platform/ladders. Tel: (784) 582-8828/457-4477 E-mail: [email protected] This luxury This

BOATS FOR SALE BLACK PEARL VEDETTE BLACK PEARL VEDETTE L-10.97m, B-2.44m, Yanmar 6LPA-STP2, 315HP, 4 – stroke. New Mercruiser Bravo 2 stern drive and aluminum prop (installed July ’13). Head / toilet, nav lights, new VHF radio, aft swim deck/ladder. Helm seats/aft sundeck cush- ions new Oct 2012. Surveyed 2013. Contact Matt Semark with offers. E-mail: matthew. [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] or [email protected] GALAPAGOS 43` STEEL KETCH Center cockpit. Recently hauled out and refurbished, ready to sail, lying Bequia, US$45,000. Robin, E-mail: [email protected] 41’ ROGER SIMPSON DESIGN Light weight, cruising cata- maran, 3 cabin, 1 head. USD75,000 ONO Tel: (868) 684-7720/634-2259 BERTRAM 33, 1977, 2 x 3208 Cats, Structurally solid as a rock! Good shape, running very well. US$65,000. Lying Antigua Email: [email protected]. Tel: (268) 464-7333 BERTRAM 28 FLYBRIDGE 1983 2x Yanmar 2007 w/ 2000 hrs. Very good condition, com- pletely renovated at Ottley Hall, St.Vincent. Well equipped w/ AP, fish finder & large iceboxes. E-mail: gar- denboutique@ hotmail.com or [email protected]. Tel: (784) 458-3518/ 430-5021. 47’ JAVELIN/FOUNTAIN 47’ JAVELIN/FOUNTAIN POWERBOAT E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (758) 452 8531 speedboat is available in Grenada. Gen-Set, A/C, white leather in cabin, galley, shower(s), VaccuFlush, Mercury 502 marine engines over- hauled by Mercury dealer, Bravo 1 drives. 40 MPH cruise props w/over 60 speed props. Tel: (787) 241-9624 www.aviationcms.com E-mail: [email protected] 2003 GibSea 51 160.000 US 2002 BENETEAU 505 175.000 US 1992 WARWICK Cardinal 46cc 2001 Bavaria 46/3 109.000 US 1987 IRWIN 44 MK II 95.000 US 1983 34ft VINDÖ 45 40.000 US 165.000 US MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO P# DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATION PG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER were wordsofcongratulationsonmyfirstanniversarywith 11th 1997,complimentingmeononeofmystories.Attheendthatletter writing forthepaper. nice toreminisceoverthebeautifulmemoriesofmarine-relatedactivitiesand all thecherishedclippingsandcopiesthatIhavekeptoveryears.Itwasso ning, andalltheseyearshavepassed.I’vejustgoneintomyarchivesfound Martinique tocoverthegamefishingtournamentspecificallyfor Martinique FishFest,”datedDecember1996.Ihadwrittenthisfollowingmyvisitto tive coverstories,andIfoundthefirstofthem,entitled“TrinidadiansTop of mycontributions. a checkassmalltokenofappreciationforthe“reliablyhighstandard” Compass Contributors’HallofFame1998”.Enclosedintheenvelopehadbeen past yearandinformingmethatIhadbeenelectedtothe“Caribbean dated March4th1998,onceagainthankingmeformycontributionsoverthe Caribbean marinecommunity.NextIfoundanotherletterofcongratulations “definite asset”tothepaperinaneffortbuildavoiceforSouthern pliments andthanksformy“brightenjoyablearticles”thathadbeena anniversary. Ican’tbelievethatwaswith The to exist!Yetpopulationsaregrowingwhilesuppliesdwindleandcostsinflate. to realizethepriorityofeach:justaseverysailor/cruiserdoes,islandersmusteat Tide’s Table,mycookingcolumnforboaters,beapartofyourfinepublication. wealth ofinformationforboatersthroughouttheCaribbean.Thankyouletting 2001. Sincethen,Ihavebeenamazedathowthe encountered yourpublicationwhenvisitingthewonderfulislandofBequiain book, Isatdownandquicklydevouredtheseastories. being publishedinthe included helpfulsuggestionsaswellcontroversialsubjectsandnews. ion tosomeoftheletters.Thatsectionwasalwaysonemyfavoritesbecauseit by cruisersIhadmetalongtheway. wrote, Iwouldcheckforarticlesofplaceshadnotbeenyet,orwritten — itwassuchakicktoseemywordsandphotosinprint.IfIdidn’tanything would checktheTableofContentsfirsttoseeifonemyarticleswaspublished search whereverIwastofindthenewestissueof be mold! nature. Justbecauseyouareonaboat,theonlygreenthingdoesn’thaveto thing, anditwillhelpyouattaingreaterunderstandingofthisthingcalled need tocontinuallybuystocksofcannedgoods:oneveryboatgrowsome- on theseislandsandhowtopreparegood,inexpensivenutritiousmeals.No about mycruisingdays.WhenIgotowncopyofthe thrilled tobeincludedinthiscollection,sinceIhadjustpublishedmyownbook asked mypermissiontoaddoneofarticlesthebook.Ofcourse,Iwas lishing abook— enjoyed verymuchbeingapartofthe Compass cess inpublishingthepaper,andincreasedreadership.Longlive introduced metowritingforthe Orbin Ollivierre—whomIhadmetatTobagoRegattain1995,andwho company andalsointheoftwoBequiaguys—MackieSimmons Easter brunchandwaswarmlyreceived.Ispentawonderfulweekendintheir to visitSallyandTomallthewonderfulpeopleat I knewwasleavingTrinidadfortheUnitedStatesin1999,madeaspecialeffort riigLf SG 37 MP MP SVG Martinique MP MP 14 MP 50 SVG Martinique 25 Martinique 43 Cruising Life 2 Clippers Ship Trinidad SVG St.Maarten 45 Caribbean MarineElectrical Tortola SintMaarten Caribbean Diesel MP Caraibes DieselServices 15 St.Maarten 26 MP Caraibe Marine SVG Caraibe Marine 41 27 Captain Gourmet 45 40 BVI YachtSales SVG Budget Marine Antigua SVG Boat Paint&Stuff Grenada SVG 18 Blue LagoonHotel&Marina Black PearlRestaurant Antigua SVG Bequia EasterRegatta C/W Basil’s Bar Barefoot YachtCharters Antigua B &CFuelDock Art &Design Antigua ClassicRegatta Anjo Insurance Aero TechLab IalsofoundcherishednotesfromSally.OneofthesewasdatedNovember Betty Karl,‘RV-ingsomewhereoutWest’ I rememberedthenthathadonceperformedthehattrickwiththreeconsecu- It issuchanhonorformetomakethiscontributionthe I amaTriniwhohashadthegoodfortunetovisitalmosteveryisland.Itiseasy Ross Mavis,StJohn,NB,Canada Thanks, A fewyearsago,Igotane-mailsayingthatthe When IlefttheCaribbean,andevennow,goonlinecheckoutwhat’s I alwaysreadtheletterstoeditorandafewtimeswrotereplyoranopin- A fewyearsagowhenIwaslivingintheCaribbeanonmysailboat,would Shirley Hall,Trinidad I wishallthestaffof Hearty congratulationsto Audrey AlleyneQuiniou,FortWayne,Indiana,USA Compass Caribbean Compass . HappyAnniversary! hasgivenmeaplatformtoshowcasealltheexoticfoodgrowing Cruising Life,TheBestStoriesfromCaribbeanCompass CC: LASTBUTNOTLEAST! Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass , forcontinuingtobepartofmylife! Compass Compass . Compass —luckilyithasbeenonlinesinceIleft. God’sblessingsandcontinuedsuc- onits20thAnniversary.Ihave duringthepastyears.Ifirst Caribbean Compass Compass rndnsSis V 41 20 43 MP MP 44 MP SVG Grenada 37 St.Lucia St.Lucia SVG Grenada MP Trinidad International Inflatables MP 18 31 Grenadines Sails Grenada Marine C/W PuertoRico Gonsalves Liquors 44 Golden Taste SVG Trinidad Gittens Engines 4 Free CruisingGuides USA Food Fair Fernando's Hideaway MP 9 Fajardo Canvas 44 C/W Tortola Electropics Trinidad MP MP Edward WilliamInsurance St.Maarten Echo Marine 16 Grenada Curaçao Doyle's Guides Dominica Doyle OffshoreSails MP Down IslandRealEstate Martinique Dominica YachtServices C/W Dockwise YachtTransport Diesel Outfitters Curaçao Marine Cruising withChildren fromalmosttheverybegin- Caribbean Compass Compass Caribbean Compass Compass Compass issuchanincredible . Iattendedthe Compass Caribbean ADVERTISERS INDEX onits20th andcom- waspub- —and . I . When

possibilities ofwhatcanbearelimitless. present humor,consistencyandeffortstoencouragenewbeginningswherethe enjoy theproactivefeedbackfromreaders.Icongratulatestaffontheirever- poets, whereinsongsaresungofordinaryindividualsdoingextraordinarythings.I extending itsreachbeyondyachtersandcruiserstoaficionadosinfarlatitudes. nections fortheCompassfamily—anappreciativeaudiencethathasgrownmultifold, old salts’accountsandtalesofthosejustcastingoff. online issueprovideda“home-away-from-home”bird’s-eyeviewencompassing waiting forthemailboattocomeonceamonth,onTuesdays.By2007,first local CaribbeanEco-News. businesses. It’saone-of-a-kindread—whetherit’srecipes,viewingnightskiesor ture articlesoncruisingdestinations,regattanewsandevents,marine-related direction forlivelyandfar-rangingselectionsof“newsyoucanuse”includingfea- supporter andsometimeswriter.Sinceitsbeginnings,the doesn’t work?’ some day.Istillhaveplentyofunpublishedfishcartoonslyingaround. Florida, whereIfinallyendedup12yearsago.)reallyshouldgetbacktoBequia beach puppybackhomeonmylastvisit.(He’sstilllivingandbarkingherein and touristslikemyself.Tomydelighttheysaidyes,evenpaidme! of mycartoons,mostlyonthesubjectvacationing,ocean,boats,fish,sharks, ed toaskthegoodeditorsat magazine andtendtodoodlealmostwhereverIgo,evenonvacation,sodecid- many sunburnsIcollectedthereovertheyears.I’macartoonistforNewYorker Compass for thefuture. viable andinformativepublicationithasbecome.Wesendyouverybestwishes sure itwasquiteachallengeattimes.Wehaveenjoyedwatchinggrowintothe the wonderfuljobyouhavebeendoingwith to perfection. Charybdis ofallowingunsupportedaccusationstoseeprint. brilliantly betweentheScyllaofendorsingasideinpublicdiscussion,and their storiesandhaveaforum,providedtheinfothatweallneed,steered the world-widesailingcommunity),inspiredwritersofallagesandabilitiestoshare There wasnothing. events. Keepupthegoodwork! for fiveyears(offandon),Iuseyouronlinemagazinetokeepupwithcurrent We blogdailyatwww.justalittlefurther.com. cruisers informedandentertained. Happy 20thAnniversary.CongratulationsonajobwelldonekeepingCaribbean Compass destinations. In2000,wefinallymovedaboard off intothesunsetonourownboatandexperienceallthoseexcitingCaribbean chartered aboatinTortola.Wedreamedofthedaywhenwe’dbeabletosail Ian andTrudiSmyth,Barbados It doesnotseempossible—20years!Wewouldliketocongratulateyouallon William Pringle,California How haveyoudonethis?Hardwork,andaplan,whichexecuted You’ve entertainedandenlightenedtheCaribbeansailingcommunity(indeed, What werewereadingbeforethen?Somehow,Ican’tremember.Whynot? 1995? Youmustbekidding! Dick Scheu, I alwayslookforwardtothenextissue. I haveenjoyedyourpublicationforall20years.HavinglivedintheCaribbean Marcie Connelly-Lynn, Thanks forpublishingmystories.I’mstillcruisingandwritingafterallthoseyears! Nearly 80,000nauticalmilesand12yearslater,wewish David andIreadourfirstcopyof Nathalie Ward,WoodsHole,Massachusetts,USA I aminspiredbythecontributionsofwriters,cartoonists,photographersand I applaudthe In thelate1990s,gettingahardcopyof The — Joshamee Gibbs,PiratesoftheCaribbean ‘Aye, thecompassdoesn’tpointnorth,butwe’renottryingtofindarewe?’ ‘How canwesailtoanislandthatnobodyfindwithacompass Mick Stevens,Florida,USA I camebacktotheislandseveraltimesandendeduptakinganorphaned Vacationing onBequiabackin(1952?2003?lastweek?)Ifoundacopyofthe Caribbean Compass andperuseditspageswhilelyingonthebeachgettingfirstof publishedmyveryfirststoryin2003.Whatathrill! ie aie V MP MP MP Trinidad SVG MP 33 MP 51 C/W 44 17 Grenada Grenada Power Boats Piper Marine C/W Grenada C/W Off ShoreRiskManagement MP 31 MP Tortola 6 Ocean AerialArt MP DominicanRep Northern LightsGenerators 48 MP Neil PrydeSails Nauti Solutions Colombia Grenada Azores Multihull Company PuertoRico Trinidad Mid AtlanticYachtServices Grenada 24 MP 31/45 McIntyre Bros Marina Zar-Par Marina SantaMarta Marina Pescaderia St.Lucia Grenada Marc OneMarine LIAT C/W UK Le PhareBleu La Playa Johnson Hardware Island WaterWorldSintMaarten11/13/29/56 Island Dreams 39 Iolaire Enterprises S/V Keeper Compass Nine ofCups ’ ever-expandingvision.Iamthankfulfortheirmakingcon- hasbeenpartofmydietfor20years—asanearnest Compass Caribbean Compass iftheywouldbeokaywithpublishingafew Compass Nine ofCups Compass C/W =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages49to52 backin1997whenwe wasananticipatedtreat: Caribbean Compass Compass overthoseyears.Iam and aauMrn Vnzea 47 55 Venezuela 40 Trinidad MP 47 5 YSATT Trinidad Grenada20/MP Yacht SteeringCommittee MP Xanadu Marine Tonga PuertoRico Venezuela WIND Martinique 7 Venezuelan MarineSupply MP Bequia Vava'u MarineServices MP Turbulence Sails 8 SVG Tradewinds CruiseClub Grenada Technick Grenada Grenada C/W 19/21/23 10 Sunbay Marina Sugar ReefBequiaLtd MP MP SpotlessStainless C/W Aruba Spice IslandMarine St.Lucia Slipway Restaurant MP Sea HawkPaints Rodney BayMarina/IGY Renaissance Marina Caribbean haspioneered a MARCH 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago