Juice Gone Wild CONFUSION in AISLE 10
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BRAND-NAME RATING Juice Gone Wild CONFUSION IN AISLE 10 BY JAYNE HURLEY & BONNIE LIEBMAN Juice beats soda. That’s no surprise. But the sky’s no longer the limit even for nutrient-packed juices like orange. In 2006, a panel of experts recommended that most Americans drink no more than one cup (8 oz.) of fruit juice a day. Why? Because we don’t compensate for the calories we get from liquids by eating less food later. So juices aren’t good for the waistline. And they may raise the risk of diabetes (see Sept. 2008, cover story). Maybe the bad press is one reason the juice aisle has gone wild. Labels are pushing everything from antioxidants and energy to hydration and heart health. And companies are making juice lighter, more sparkling, more fortified...and more confusing. Here’s what’s new. Information compiled by Paige Einstein. Lighten Up “Natural” Energy? “50% less sugar & calories,” “Made with the goodness of real boasts the Trop50 Orange label. cranberries and green tea extract If you like the taste—which for your natural caffeine boost,” is somewhat sweeter than OJ— says the Cran-Energy Raspberry Trop50 Orange is a smart move. Energy Juice Drink bottle. “Plus, It’s about 40 percent juice and it’s loaded with Vitamins B & C.” 60 percent water plus Reb A Cran-Energy has just 35 calories (Pure Via), a safe sweetener ex- and no unsafe sweeteners (that’s tracted from the stevia plant. An good). But its caffeine (55 mil- Cran-Energy’s added B vita- 8 oz. glass has just 50 calories. ligrams per 8 oz. cup) is no more mins won’t give you energy, Just keep in mind that some natural than coffee’s (240 mg in a but its caffeine will. Trop50 flavors play the usual 12 oz. “tall” Starbucks). And what’s juice tricks. The Pomegranate so natural about a drink that’s mostly water, juice (more grape If you want a light juice, find Blueberry, for example, has more than cranberry or raspberry), added vitamins, and Red 40 dye? one that uses a safe sweet- apple than pomegranate and Minute Maid Natural Energy Pomegranate Berry Enhanced ener like Reb A or sucralose. more grape than blueberry. And Juice Drink is more misleading. It’s basically water, pear juice, the lemonades are just 10 per- and sugar, dressed up to look like pomegranate and berry juices cent juice plus Reb A and ordinary sugar. (which are less than 1 percent of the drink). Its caffeine (around Trop50 isn’t the only light juice that uses safe low-calorie 40 mg in a 120-calorie, 12 oz. bottle) comes not just from the sweeteners. Ocean Spray Cran-Energy and V8 V-Fusion Light “yerba mate extract” featured in big print on the label, but use sucralose (Splenda). And Sunsweet Light PlumSmart and from the “caffeine from coffee beans” in small print. (Yerba Prune Juice Light use sucralose and sorbitol, a safe sugar alcohol mate leaves, which are used to make tea, contain caffeine.) (though it may cause gas). Lakewood and R.W. Knudsen also V8 V-Fusion + Energy touts its “natural energy from green add Reb A to their Lights. But Knudsen still has 60 to 80 calories tea.” It’s also an “excellent source of B vitamins,” which perpet- per cup and Sunsweet Prune Juice Light has 100 calories. uates the myth that B vitamins make you feel energetic. At least Even so, they all beat Ocean Spray Diet (and some Light it’s half juice (though there isn’t much of the mango, peach, flavors), Old Orchard Healthy Balance, V8 Diet Splash, and blueberry, or pomegranate that are pictured on the bottles). Welch’s Light. All say “sweetened with Splenda” on the label, Bottom line: Energy juice drinks can supply caffeine, but it’s photo-dave/fotolia.com (top). Jorge Bach (bottom). no better than the caffeine you get from coffee or tea. And © but also contain the poorly tested sweetener acesulfame potassium. Minute Maid Light adds a second questionable don’t get snookered by vitamins and bait-and-switch juices. Photos: sweetener—aspartame. 12 NUTRITION ACTION HEALTHLETTER n JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 Izze Isn’t... Playing Hearts “All natural & true to the fruit.” “Healthy Heart with Omega-3,” That’s how IZZE describes its says the Tropicana orange juice Sparkling Juices. Yet IZZE’s Spar- bottle. “Proven to help reduce kling Blackberry, Blueberry, Clem- cholesterol,” says the Minute Maid entine, Grapefruit, Lime, Peach, Heart Wise carton. Which is best? and Pomegranate are largely Minute Maid wins. Each 8 oz. made of only two juices—apple cup has 1 gram of plant sterols. and white grape. Two grams a day can lower LDL And IZZE isn’t alone. The (“bad”) cholesterol by roughly Switch, Knudsen Spritzers, Nestlé 10 percent. Sparkling juices have no fewer calories than ordi- Juicy Juice Sparkling, Ocean In contrast, Tropicana has no nary juice...or cola. Spray Sparkling, and Trader Joe’s Minute Maid’s sterols are plant sterols. Each cup contains Sparkling (except Blueberry) may better for your heart than 50 milligrams of EPA plus DHA name or show every fruit from berries to black cherries on their Tropicana’s DHA + EPA. from fish oil. That’s a fraction of labels. But inside the bottles, they’re mostly the least nutritious the 1,000 to 3,500 mg you’d get (and least expensive) white grape and apple juices. in a 6 oz. serving of salmon. And although there’s decent evi- What’s more, most sparkling juices have around 100 calories dence that fish oil prevents heart attacks, it’s not a slam dunk. per (8 oz.) cup. That’s about the same as cola. Exceptions: Welch’s Fruit Fizz has 70 calories per 8.4 oz. can because it’s only 50 percent juice. The IZZE Esque line has 50 calories per 12 oz. bottle because it’s 25 percent juice. Apple And Ocean Spray Diet Sparkling manages to hit 10 calories in an 8.4 oz. can by dropping the juice to just 10 percent (and Grape Juicy sweetening with poorly tested acesulfame potassium). If you want a sparkling juice, add seltzer to nutrient-rich Pomegranate orange juice. Voilà! Half the calories, not too sweet, and prob- Fruit ably cheaper than gussied up grape and apple juice. Coconut Water Cranberry Coconut What? Pineapple Perhaps you’re wondering what Prune coconut water is doing in a juice article (well, coconut is a fruit) Grapefruit and, more importantly, what the heck it is. Tomato Coconut milk (which is loaded with saturated fat and calories) Orange comes from squeezing grated Carrot coconut meat. Coconut water is Most people can hydrate the liquid that pours out when perfectly well with water. 0 100 200 300 400 you crack open a young green coconut. It has roughly 40 calories per cup, zero fat, and zero Score (per 8 oz. serving) protein. Its claim to fame: hydration. Not all juices are equal. We calculated scores based on the levels of “Vita Coco has more than 15 times the electrolytes found 12 vitamins, minerals, and carotenoids, plus fiber. (We left out juices like blue- in sports drinks,” claims the leading brand, which is imported from Brazil. “It’s okay if you’re not a marathon runner, a foot- berry and açai because numbers for some of their nutrients aren’t available.) ball player or Tour de France winner,” adds the label. “Life is Carrot juice leads the pack because it’s so rich in vitamin A (and it packs a nice hectic enough, and you should be hydrated while you live it.” potassium punch as well). Hello? Any beverage hydrates you. The only time you A few caveats: Tomato juice is high in salt unless the label says “low sodium.” might need electrolytes—like sodium, potassium, or chlo- And our score reflects nutrient levels in pure cranberry juice, even though it’s ride—is after hours of vigorous exercise. Marathon runners rarely sold without other juices or sweetened water mixed in. who drink too much plain water can dilute their sodium lev- And keep in mind that calories vary. An 8 oz. glass of apple, blueberry, carrot, els enough to cause cardiac arrest. A hectic life won’t do that. cranberry, grapefruit, orange, or pineapple juice has 100 to 130 calories, while a That said, coconut water’s potassium (300 to 500 milligrams glass of grape, pomegranate, or prune juice has 150 to 180. per cup) is a real asset. Most people don’t get anywhere near These days, much of what you hear about juices goes beyond vitamins and the daily target (4,700 mg) that can help lower blood pressure. minerals. A future article will look at whether blueberry, pomegranate, tart cherry, Photos: Jorge Bach. But unless you’ve been sweating for hours, hydrate with water. or other juices (or fruits) can improve health. >>>>> NUTRITION ACTION HEALTHLETTER n JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2012 13 BRAND-NAME RATING Claims to Ignore Serving Size Scams When will bogus claims disappear? When the FDA stops nap- “2 servings of fruit...in every ping and juice makers decide to stop raking in the easy dough. 8 ounce glass,” says the bottle of In other words, not anytime soon. Here are a few examples: Fruit2day. Apple & Eve Fruitables and Ocean Spray Fruit & Veggie Antioxidants. “Essential antioxi- make similar claims. dants,” says V8’s label. “Nutrients that How do juice makers squeeze help support the immune system. two servings of fruit (and/or Each 6.5 oz.