Illustrations by Peter Donnelly

Playing the Field

Feeling deflated after ? The game lives 365 days a year in these three - obsessed . tinkles away. One last thing: famous cricket ground – and steer clear of Room 333. Even offers an innovative take on the says it’s haunted, South Indian cuisine. with some players in the team requesting Soak up the culture to change rooms in 2014 Pull up a stool at the historic after nocturnal “happenings” Lord’s Tavern (lords.org), spooked them during a test which – located next to the match against . Grace Gates, named after domestic legend WG Grace EAT & DRINK – offers elevated pub grub. Serving fans for more than Spicing it up 100 years, this cricket The United Kingdom might institution’s warm atmosphere have exported cricket globally and worthy beer selection but India has done plenty in makes it the perfect starting return, with its cuisine now (or finishing) point for a figuring among the UK’s memorable match day. national dishes. Kricket A crowd favourite on the (kricket.co.uk) began life menu is the as a shipping container in Burger stuffed with spicy Brixton – close to in jerk chicken and mango salsa. Kennington, south ’s DO

Lord’s prayer London Lord’s, the so-called “home of cricket” (lords.org), should be your first stop. Headquarters of the Middlesex team and the With its village-green roots, plummy commentary and classic England and Wales Cricket afternoon teas, cricket is about as traditionally British as it gets. Board, this picturesque pile The domestic season kicks off in April; while this year also sees is steeped in history. Taking , and India tour England ahead of next year’s a tour reveals the dressing . rooms, a trophy cabinet housing the Ashes and dizzying views from the press box. Look out for the stuffed sparrow, the victim of a STAY The Potting Shed, hits it for skyward shot during a game six with cocktails called Silly against Pakistan back in 1936. Home advantage Mid and The Ashes. Michael Clarke’s With Marylebone on the Timeless Tip Off the beaten track doorstep of Lord’s, cricket slicker London has a wealth of fans are spoiled for choice Follow in the footsteps of the hidden gems for grassroots when it comes to high-end English, Sri Lankan and Indian and exhibition cricket. Head to accommodation – but few cricket teams with a stay at REQUEST A ROOM hipster-heavy London Fields compare with the Dorset The Langham (hotel.qantas. THAT OVERLOOKS THE (hackney.gov.uk) for weekend Square Hotel (firmdalehotels. com.au/langhamlondon). PRIVATE GARDEN AT cricket or, in the west, the com). Made in the eclectic It has all the trimmings of THE DORSET SQUARE postcard-worthy Richmond style of hotelier and designer a traditional five-star hotel HOTEL – THE ORIGINAL Green and Kew cricket clubs. Kit Kemp, this classic Regency in London: palatial public SITE OF THOMAS For a different experience, townhouse celebrates the spaces, a beautiful spa and LORD’S FIRST CRICKET check the schedule at the sport with quirky touches a high tea to end them all. GROUND. Honourable Artillery Company such as antique bats arranged Feast on amuse-bouche, (hac.org.uk) in the city; sitting as artworks and miniature toasty scones with whipped behind a stone fortress, this cricket balls as wardrobe cream and crust-trimmed Hublot “Classic Fusion Aerofusion field is surrounded by London’s handles. Its all-day diner, sandwiches while a pianist Chronograph ICC World Cup skyscrapers. BEN OLSEN 2015” watch, $47,300 stay. A Marine Drive landmark, Living the high life the hotel showcases views Watch the sun set over Marine of the from the Drive – also known as the pool and is located near one of Queen’s Necklace because, the city’s most popular spots, viewed at night from a great the Colonial . height, the streetlights look like a string of pearls – from EAT & DRINK lounge bar Dome, atop the InterContinental in South Sea change (intercontinental. Enjoy creamy lobster bisque com). It’s where socialites and or Goan oysters plucked journalists rub shoulders while from the sea by fishermen sipping garnished drinks. only hours earlier at Indigo DO (foodindigo.com), one of the first stand-alone restaurants in the country. Located in a Mahatma on the pitch charming Colonial building Visit Mani Bhavan (gandhi amid the high-end shops museum.org), a two-storey of , Indigo’s building on a lovely street in the European-inspired menu is heart of the cricket maidans of a pleasant alternative to Gamdevi. Mahatma Gandhi spicy Indian food. stayed here during his visits to Bombay from 1917 to 1934 and it is now a museum dedicated to his life. You can even see his Mumbai bedroom on the second floor, preserved behind glass. To view Gandhi through cricket-tinted lenses, read This “maximum city” is India’s cradle of cricket, having Mahatma on the Pitch by spawned scores of sportsmen in its dusty neighbourhood Kausik Bandyopadhyay maidans (open fields) or public parks. The most famous are before visiting Mani Bhavan. Oval and Azad maidans and Park – its 11 hectares must It’s a long-held belief that have thrown up at least 28 cricketers, including , Gandhi had an intuitive , and the much-beloved Master understanding of the game Blaster . Today, scores of children still train and could predict when a in the maidans, running between stumps in the blistering heat batsman would get out. while pedestrians cheer them on. The game comes together in , home of the , the Walk the walk country’s most popular (IPL) franchise. Part of old Mumbai, Michael Clarke’s is enjoying new-found energy Timeless Tip with its cafés, restaurants, boutiques and bars. Book a walking tour (Raconteur STAY Cup. Fun fact: when India Walks is one of the best; won, the hotel lit up the VISIT THE CHAMBERS mumbaiwalkingtours.com) Palatial paradise Tower wing in blue. LAWNS AT THE TAJ to take in the lively seaside Arguably India’s most MAHAL PALACE, community from madcap legendary hotel, the luxurious Point of view WHERE FORMER Sassoon Docks, where local Palace (hotel. The – as INDIAN fishermen rush to get their qantas.com.au/tajmahal soaked in history as Lord’s in SACHIN TENDULKAR haul to the pavement market palacemumbai) is a favourite London – is within walking POSED WITH THE 2011 stalls of . of the Australian team. Choose distance of the five-star WORLD CUP TROPHY. Sunset is the best time to walk one of the well-appointed Trident (hotel. along the Strand Promenade Tower rooms, where both the qantas.com.au/trident that runs from the Radio Club Indian and Sri Lankan teams narimanmumbai), where the Hublot “Classic Fusion to the majestic Gateway of stayed during the 2011 World IPL Indian teams choose to Ashes” watch, $16,200 India. SHOBA NARAYAN of the Gas Brigades Fire Little Italy Show when eight towers Romeo’s Toorak (romeos at Southbank launch large oftoorak.com.au) gets the fireballs into the night sky. ringing endorsement of former Australian spin EAT & DRINK bowler for its traditional spaghetti Local legend bolognese (the “best you’ll The Duke of Wellington ever have”, he says) but this (dukeofwellington.com.au) four-decade-old Italian on Flinders Street, a short restaurant also serves a walk from the MCG, is mean chicken parmigiana. indelibly associated with Ask the jovial owner, George, pre- or post-match drinks. for a window seat for prime A multi million dollar update people-watching. has made ’s oldest DO licensed pub (it served its first beer in 1853, the same year the MCG was inaugurated) History in the making a far more glamorous No sports pilgrimage is proposition than days of yore complete without a visit to but you can still grab steak the National Sports Museum and chips at the front bar. (nsm.org.au), which is located inside the MCG. There are a whopping 3500 pieces of memorabilia on display Melbourne – across not only cricket but also Aussie Rules, soccer, cycling, netball and basketball. The highlight? Two virtual- To quantify the importance of cricket to Melbourne, look reality machines that feature only as far as the (MCG). A shrine, lightweight headsets fitted cultural touchstone and source of downright obsession, it’s out with custom software to the city what the Sistine Chapel is to the Vatican. Pope John so you can play two overs Paul II held a mass here when he visited Australia in 1986 but against a 3D hologram of the religious fervour he generated is nothing compared with Warnie. On your way out, the restive Boxing Day crowds. No matter the time of year, get a photo with kings of Melbourne remains a city in thrall to the leather and willow. the game , , , , and others – all immortalised in Michael Clarke’s bronze and dotted around STAY Crown jewel Timeless Tip outside the MCG. To experience the glitzy side Grande dame of the game, check in to Journey on foot Australian cricket teams a room at Crown Towers Take in the city’s sports and of the past regularly checked (hotel.qantas.com.au/ MAKE SURE YOU cultural heart with a stroll in to The Hotel Windsor (hotel. crowntowersmelbourne). BOOK A 75-MINUTE along 525-metre-long William qantas.com.au/hotelwindsor) One of Melbourne’s most MCG TOUR. IT’S YOUR Barak footbridge. It snakes and it’s easy to see why, luxurious , it’s here that TICKET TO THE INNER from , in front of thanks to its ornate Victorian you’re more likely than not to SANCTUM, INCLUDING the MCG, to riverside park architecture and the five-star spot members of the Aussie THE CHANGE ROOMS Birrarung Marr. On the bridge, service, which still includes cricket team in après-match AND CRICKETERS’ listen for the “sonic corridor” a top-hatted doorman. mode. Suites are kitted out VIEWING ROOM. – a sound installation Another plus: it’s a short with bathrooms the size of representing people from the walk to the ’G through one studio apartments and 53 Commonwealth nations of Melbourne’s most beautiful floor-to-ceiling windows that Hublot “Aerofusion (in 2006) living in Australia. spots, Fitzroy Gardens. offer can’t-be-beaten views Chronograph 2016 ICC World LARISSA DUBECKI ” watch, $20,800